When doing dual piston calipers from 2014-up they need to be pressed together as equal as possible if you press one at a time all the way in the “catch on the other piston willl move outside the caliper and at that point you CANNOT RETURN THE PISTON BACK Inside. So you either rebuild the caliper or you’re stuck buying a new one! Also unless he has a brake fluid leak it should not leak regardless especially since he used the the rear caliper piston tool to SLOOOOOOOOOLY PRESS IT BACK IN! A word to The wise, when pressing pistons back in especially with a car that’s got abs and other brake systems open the brake fluid res. All the way and let the cap rest over the hole. This is to create backwards pressure deficiencies in the system so if you use a brake pad and channel locks to squeeze the pistons back there’s no build up of pressure I.e-avoid issues within the brake lines! Etc. to avoid any unnecessary damage after the fact and also unhook the battery this is just another precaution against damage with the ABS block etc.
Thanks for reaching out with your question! The hook on the pad should be attached to the inside of the clips. At YOUCANIC, we strive to empower car owners like you. We offer plenty of guides and resources, and even have factory repair manuals that might assist you. Feel free to log onto www.youcanic.com for more detailed support. Our mission is to support you in all your car maintenance needs. Don't hesitate to reach out for further assistance, and utilize our YOUCANIC scanner to make car maintenance even more straightforward!
Also those clips SHOULD MEVER HAVE TO BE POUNDED OR FORCED IN THE GROVES!!! A lesson for the ages. They should just snap right in with your hands and little force!! If you force them in that means the groves they fit in have excess dirt, grease/road grime, corrosion. If they have to be forced in you’re pinching them together front to back and when you put the pads in they bind up due to having pressure on the pads, tabs causing them to bind up and not move freely causing cockeyed pads and in-even ware on the pads resulting in a shortened life span for the pads and rotor! CLEAN THEN SO THEY SIMPLY SNAP IN AND A TOUCH OF ANTISEIZE ON THE TABS TO KEEP THEM FROM CORRODING FURTHER AND ALLOWING EVEN PAD WARE EXTENDS THE PAD AN ROTOR LIFE PLUS THIS IS WHATS NEEDES TO PRESERVE THE WARRANTY ON THOSE PARTS. When we do pass an rotors at my Chrysler shop I spend 5-10 min in a bead blaster so they look new and eliminate all the hindrances replacing pads.
Also don’t just spray the surface with cleaner and put new rotor on I’m a complete ASE CERT TECH and a CHRYSLER FORD GM AND ALL IN BETWEEN INCLUDING THE HIGH PERFORMANCE CAR HEAD OR PEAD MASTER TECH WHICH MEANS I CAN DO ANY AND EVERY WARRANTY JOB DUE TO MY CERTIFICATIONS! So much so if someone brought in a viper to a dealer but no tech was qualified to touch it they call me As an independent contractor so to speak to fix it! Same goes with all heavy diesel vehicles. At any rate you need to take a cleaning pad and eliminate ALL OF THE GRIME AND CORROSION OTHERWISE YOULL HAVE WHATS CALLED “RUNOUT” that means the rotor even with the tire on the rotor will be at a angle and eat up your pads and rotors!!!! Clean the hub till it looks almost me then install rotor. Why is it you think “shade tree mechanic brake jobs don’t last anywhere near as long as taking it to a reputable shop????? That’s mhy
When doing dual piston calipers from 2014-up they need to be pressed together as equal as possible if you press one at a time all the way in the “catch on the other piston willl move outside the caliper and at that point you CANNOT RETURN THE PISTON BACK Inside. So you either rebuild the caliper or you’re stuck buying a new one! Also unless he has a brake fluid leak it should not leak regardless especially since he used the the rear caliper piston tool to SLOOOOOOOOOLY PRESS IT BACK IN! A word to
The wise, when pressing pistons back in especially with a car that’s got abs and other brake systems open the brake fluid res. All the way and let the cap rest over the hole. This is to create backwards pressure deficiencies in the system so if you use a brake pad and channel locks to squeeze the pistons back there’s no build up of pressure I.e-avoid issues within the brake lines! Etc. to avoid any unnecessary damage after the fact and also unhook the battery this is just another precaution against damage with the ABS block etc.
what's leaking on the other jack Stan
Brake fluid, cause he pushed the pistons back too fast, more than likely...😂
Know this is an old video but do you hook the hook on the pad to the pad clips? Or do they go on the inside of the clips?
Thanks for reaching out with your question! The hook on the pad should be attached to the inside of the clips. At YOUCANIC, we strive to empower car owners like you. We offer plenty of guides and resources, and even have factory repair manuals that might assist you.
Feel free to log onto www.youcanic.com for more detailed support. Our mission is to support you in all your car maintenance needs. Don't hesitate to reach out for further assistance, and utilize our YOUCANIC scanner to make car maintenance even more straightforward!
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Also those clips SHOULD MEVER HAVE TO BE POUNDED OR FORCED IN THE GROVES!!! A lesson for the ages. They should just snap right in with your hands and little force!! If you force them in that means the groves they fit in have excess dirt, grease/road grime, corrosion. If they have to be forced in you’re pinching them together front to back and when you put the pads in they bind up due to having pressure on the pads, tabs causing them to bind up and not move freely causing cockeyed pads and in-even ware on the pads resulting in a shortened life span for the pads and rotor! CLEAN THEN SO THEY SIMPLY SNAP IN AND A TOUCH OF ANTISEIZE ON THE TABS TO KEEP THEM FROM CORRODING FURTHER AND ALLOWING EVEN PAD WARE EXTENDS THE PAD AN ROTOR LIFE PLUS THIS IS WHATS NEEDES TO PRESERVE THE WARRANTY ON THOSE PARTS. When we do pass an rotors at my Chrysler shop I spend 5-10 min in a bead blaster so they look new and eliminate all the hindrances replacing pads.
Also don’t just spray the surface with cleaner and put new rotor on I’m a complete ASE CERT TECH and a CHRYSLER FORD GM AND ALL IN BETWEEN INCLUDING THE HIGH PERFORMANCE CAR HEAD OR PEAD MASTER TECH WHICH MEANS I CAN DO ANY AND EVERY WARRANTY JOB DUE TO MY CERTIFICATIONS! So much so if someone brought in a viper to a dealer but no tech was qualified to touch it they call me
As an independent contractor so to speak to fix it! Same goes with all heavy diesel vehicles. At any rate you need to take a cleaning pad and eliminate ALL OF THE GRIME AND CORROSION OTHERWISE YOULL HAVE WHATS CALLED “RUNOUT” that means the rotor even with the tire on the rotor will be at a angle and eat up your pads and rotors!!!! Clean the hub till it looks almost me then install rotor. Why is it you think “shade tree mechanic brake jobs don’t last anywhere near as long as taking it to a reputable shop????? That’s mhy