Why He Downgraded One Of The World's Hardest Routes // Jonathan Siegrist
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2023
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How accomplished is Jonathan Siegrist? Well, he’s climbed six 5.15s… JUST THIS YEAR! That ticklist includes Event Horizon, a route he bolted that’s at least 15b and very well may be harder. It’s certainly one of, if not the, hardest routes in North America. Earlier this year he had an unbelievably impressive trip to Spain where he sent three 15a's, two 14d's, and a handful of other 5.14s. Remember I’m just talking about the past 12 months here. His accomplishments on rock, from 5.14 on gear, to V14 boulders, to now countless 5.14 / 5.15 sport climbs… are crazy impressive and he's only getting better. Beyond his insanely impressive climbing resume, J Star has bolted hundreds of routes, many of them now super classic. This guy is as real as it gets, his stoke level is off the charts, and I know your’e going to get a TON out of this conversation.
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We think route grades should be reevaluated often... its frustrating when a 5.9 feels like a 5.7 at one crag and a 5.11 at another...
Before J Star goes into the grading explanation, he does mention that he doesn’t want to make a big deal about this. Yes, I agree that J star has incredible knowledge around grading routes in the 9th grade, however, this is not to devalue Matty Hong’s achievement. Flex Luther didn’t get repeated for nearly 20 years despite many strong climbers trying it. Also, some significant holds broke in the crux making Matty’s ascent certainly more difficult than Tommy’s.
Sooooooooo, he thinks Tommy's original proposal of 5.15a...
We have 2 5.15a and 2 5.15b
Is Flex Luther the first 5.15a/b?
As far as I can tell Carlo never really gave it a grade, other than perhaps tacitly agreeing with Matty Hong's 9b suggestion. Given that neither of them have climbed many (any?) other 9bs I think J Star's opinion is the most valid one
@@aidanjohnson7571 good point.