I'm not a pro but I thought I push down on the bracket bolts? I know on the front driver side you push down and on the front passenger side you pull up lossen the bolts, is it the same for the rear? Like I said I'm not a mechanic but want to do my rear brakes/rotors on my 2017 chevy silverado.
This video is great! I just replaced my brakes and rotors using this as a guide for 2014 Chevy Silverado 1500 2wd. One tip for those going after it themselves! If you have rust in your area, it would be wise to change the tires on one side at the same time because if your rotor is stuck on because of rust, the 1/2 or 13mm bolt from the caliper slide pin on the rear wheels fits into the threaded slot on the face the rotor. Now on the front set the bolt that goes into the front caliper slide pin is a 19mm but the front rotor is still made to use the same 1/2 bolt that the rear has to get the rotor unstuck. It just saves some frustration of having to take the tire back off to use the 1/2 bolt again for the front set.
You never use plain grease on caliper pins, you should be using some kind of high temperature silicone based caliper grease. Regular grease will destroy the rubber components and then leak out and contaminate your pads and rotors.
Take it from my mistake, if the rotor just REALLY won't budge...you may have put the parking brake on like you usually do lol. That dang parking brake bout had me throwing my back out!!!
jack up the pumpkin and stands under the axle on side of pumpkin is that how u have it? given my space i can only jack up and do one side at a time. where u suggest i put the jack stand in that case?
You took great care to clean the new rotor, but you set the pads face down on the ground and did not spray them with brake cleaner which you should do regardless if they touch the ground or not to help remove any possible contaminants off the contact surface. And always check the brake fluid level afterwards.
That was dope bro! Keep up the good work! Damn break place charging me a arm and a leg. 200 buck just for new brakes and rotor trimming. Yeah I think not! Lmao
Thanks man - great to watch before doing the job.
very helpful thanks!
Short and sweet 👍🏾. I’m about to change my rotors and pads. Thanks!
Hey there.
Trying to find the size of those 2 bolts that go in there. I've tried everything to get my rotor off and this is my last ditch effort.
10M x 30mm
You took me by the hand there Aaron. Easy how to explanation. Thanks
I'm not a pro but I thought I push down on the bracket bolts? I know on the front driver side you push down and on the front passenger side you pull up lossen the bolts, is it the same for the rear? Like I said I'm not a mechanic but want to do my rear brakes/rotors on my 2017 chevy silverado.
Good tutorial. I will use this when doing my brakes and rotors
This video is great! I just replaced my brakes and rotors using this as a guide for 2014 Chevy Silverado 1500 2wd. One tip for those going after it themselves!
If you have rust in your area, it would be wise to change the tires on one side at the same time because if your rotor is stuck on because of rust, the 1/2 or 13mm bolt from the caliper slide pin on the rear wheels fits into the threaded slot on the face the rotor. Now on the front set the bolt that goes into the front caliper slide pin is a 19mm but the front rotor is still made to use the same 1/2 bolt that the rear has to get the rotor unstuck. It just saves some frustration of having to take the tire back off to use the 1/2 bolt again for the front set.
Do you have a video for the front tires?
Same process, rotor just looks a little different
Have to bleed the brakes after?
Only have to bleed the brakes if you disconnect the brake line, if you change the calipers you have to bleed the brakes.
You never use plain grease on caliper pins, you should be using some kind of high temperature silicone based caliper grease. Regular grease will destroy the rubber components and then leak out and contaminate your pads and rotors.
Take it from my mistake, if the rotor just REALLY won't budge...you may have put the parking brake on like you usually do lol. That dang parking brake bout had me throwing my back out!!!
Thanks bud, mvp!
Did you have to open the brake fluid canister? A lot of people will get stuck trying to push the piston back in.
no. the brake fluid cap has a vent. you dont need to open anything
Is there a need to bleed the brakes ?
No
jack up the pumpkin and stands under the axle on side of pumpkin is that how u have it?
given my space i can only jack up and do one side at a time. where u suggest i put the jack stand in that case?
Put the jack right next to your jack under the axle as a caution if your jack fails. If there is no room, put the jack under the frame
Parking brake shoes?
Are there any TTY bolts ?
No, the bolts that will be removed have locktite on them. No tty
You didn't replace the old clips with new ones?
no, the old ones looked good to reuse.
I replace them anyway. Got them anyway with the pads so might as well
@@AaronHinesAuto If the old ones was original, should have replaced them.
Don’t you need to open master cylinder before depressing calipers?
No you don’t have too
OK cool bro thank you for such a quick response
I watched a different video said I did so I went and bought brake bleed bottle but I'm still glad I don't have to figure out how to use one
No drums that’s better brake system and easer to do your self
Mine were so rusted on I thought those threaded holes were actually bolting the rotor to the axle 😂😂😂🤪
You took great care to clean the new rotor, but you set the pads face down on the ground and did not spray them with brake cleaner which you should do regardless if they touch the ground or not to help remove any possible contaminants off the contact surface. And always check the brake fluid level afterwards.
Less restriction if you Remove the reservoir cap.
What about the parking break adjustment to release the rotor? You didn’t need to do this?
No i didn't run into and issues removing the rotor. parking brake should be released allowing the rotor to be removed from the hub.
That's the problem I'm having
That was dope bro! Keep up the good work! Damn break place charging me a arm and a leg. 200 buck just for new brakes and rotor trimming. Yeah I think not! Lmao
Is this the same for your rear brakes?
He is doing the rear brakes. See how he set the caliper on the leaf spring?
I thought there was a life time warranty on Silverado rotors.?? ‘14 and up that is.
ive never heard of that. where did you see this?