Great video. My perspective is different than the overwhelming 3D printing people. First difference is I'm new to it. Second difference is my printer, a K1C. Being enclosed makes things easier and more inclusive. Third difference is upgrades. Fourth difference is my age. In other words, I've been interested in 3D printing concepts since the 90's, when costs were high, real high considering today's costs. So, today, prices are reasonable (my new laptop on run the printer modeling and slicing were more than the printer) and filament choices are better than ever. This is a long way of saying short vids on printing are much better than 20+ minutes explaining setting up old, open designed printers with multiple setup steps, all of which effect the print. The newest generation printers are as close to 1 step printing as ever. This creates the opportunity for great expansion of printing people. The 2nd generation of printing. While some of us remember the original airing of Star Trek and it's replicator, it's now available to tech neophites. Today's steps are: (1) Place filament spool in dryer to dry for 6 hours minimum. (2) Feed filament thru dryer & it's tube into printer/head. (3) Prep buildplate. (4) Turn on printer & extrude until filament comes out. (5) Select model to print & print with bed calibration. Sure, I left out modeling software techniques and slicer settings, if not obtaining downloads of print models, but, those are a different yt search. Happy printing !!!
I’ve done a bit of research on my own but I was going to start my print today. I’m glad I watched this first. The point you made about how long it takes to dry isn’t one I had thought about. I was about to throw it in the dryer for an hour or two. But I think I’ll put it in to dry today and start the print tomorrow morning just to make sure.
important note: teflon = brand name for PTFE. it's what you probably have in your printer another note: the nozzle that came with your printer is probably brass
Thanks. Those brands getting in my brain make it hard to stop using them for the real term. I used to do some construction and still have a hard time not calling cement screws Tapcons.
The enclosure is what will avoid warping. In my experience if your not getting the enclosure temperature to at least 40°C doesn't matter your using a garolite bed, it will warp and fail.
Thanks for this video. Great tip regarding use of filament dryers directly feeding the printer. Also, thanks for the heads-up about not really needing an enclosure. I'm leaning toward a Bambu A1, and your Amazon solution means I don't need to shell out the big bucks for an enclosed P1S, although I might buy a $50 grow tent to replace the cardboard someday lol. Oh, one other thing, in case you ever make a follow-up video, Nylon is a brand name, the actual material is Polyamide or PA, IIRC, so you might get more UA-cam search hits if you put "PA/Nylon" in your title next time. Keep up the great work!
West3D Undertaker Tungsten Carbide nozzle is a much better choise than hardened steel, many many times harder and almost identical thermal properties as brass to get a good melt. Also it is a 1-piece nozzle unlike ruby nozzles which is a piece of ruby embedded in brass. I am not affiliated with them i just really think these nozzles are great, ive pushed almost 10kg of ASA-CF through one and its still like new.
@@BuildItMakeIt There is also "Bozzle Nozzle 0.5mm" but its out of production for the time being, it is the same but highflow geometry inside, hopefully in the future.
Nice! I'm new to PA-CF Tried yesterday with a new spool, Whilst my QIDI plus 4 prints easily, the layer adhesion is not great I can snap it easily on parts, at 270C and a bit better at 285C I'm drying it now in a creality filament dryer which I can keep on whilst it prints also. and hopefully Prints stronger, :) I think the part could take 300C Sticks to the bed real nice on Texured PEI / glue stick at 60c first time at 80c bed it wouldn't stick.
Great video, thank you! I have a question: I need to print an intake for a go kart engine. Where the small carburetor is on the end. Karts have no suspension so the part needs to be strong to 'shaking' with the carburetor on the end. Can you advise the type of filament I should use please?
Might be too late, but i would suggest to take a look at bambu’s ppa-cf. Its currently on sale until the 27th. Its strong and very durable. Also it’s chemically resistant, which is necessary when used on a carburetor.
The nylon will expand so it probably needs a coating to handle submersion. I know that epoxy is very commonly used to coat nylon parts that will be subjected to water, but on full submersion I am not sure.
Submerging nylon in water after printing is actually great for improving durability. Moisture reduces the rigidity of nylon (especially PA6), but makes it much harder to break. If you need it to stay rigid go with PA12 or PA612, ideally with carbon fiber. With that said, nylon technically can still degrade from lots of water exposure despite its excellent chemical resistance.
I want to start printing small gears out of Nylon. They are relatively small, 6" diameter and smaller. What would you recommend as a starting printer, that would produce quality prints? Somewhere in the $1000 to $1500 dollar price range.
@@DescendantOfAbraham For nylon you'll want a printer with an enclosure, so go with the P1S. Both printers in the P1 series are great, but there's not much point in buying the slightly inferior P1P especially if you're planning to print nylon. As for drying the filament, you can technically do it with any heated bed and a cardboard filament box (look up the technique) but since nylon absorbs moisture so quickly (it can absorb too much before the print is even finished) you might just want to buy a proper dryer. Note that dry boxes and filament dryers are very different things. One keeps the filament from absorbing more moisture while the other actually removes it from the material.
just don't store your fillament (even the packed ones) in open air. sure if you just get it from delivery you might need to dry it out. but mine. i order filament. and i might not use that filament for several days. (because i am not printing or using a diffrent spool) so i store mine in a drybox. not heated or anything just a shit ton of desicant bags in there. it litterally get the air down to the low single digit percentiles of moisture. this is more than dry enoegh to passively dry out anything you put in there. infact sticking your hand into the drybox makes the drybox feel much colder than the surrounding air even though it's the same temperature. (any moisture on your hands is instantly vaporising in the dry air and thus cools your hand down)
I do like pla carbon fiber, but it doesn't hold up to water or outside usage for me over time. I also really like ASA carbon fiber filled. That gives me the durability for outdoor prints I like.
Great video. My perspective is different than the overwhelming 3D printing people. First difference is I'm new to it. Second difference is my printer, a K1C. Being enclosed makes things easier and more inclusive. Third difference is upgrades. Fourth difference is my age. In other words, I've been interested in 3D printing concepts since the 90's, when costs were high, real high considering today's costs. So, today, prices are reasonable (my new laptop on run the printer modeling and slicing were more than the printer) and filament choices are better than ever.
This is a long way of saying short vids on printing are much better than 20+ minutes explaining setting up old, open designed printers with multiple setup steps, all of which effect the print.
The newest generation printers are as close to 1 step printing as ever. This creates the opportunity for great expansion of printing people. The 2nd generation of printing. While some of us remember the original airing of Star Trek and it's replicator, it's now available to tech neophites.
Today's steps are: (1) Place filament spool in dryer to dry for 6 hours minimum. (2) Feed filament thru dryer & it's tube into printer/head. (3) Prep buildplate. (4) Turn on printer & extrude until filament comes out. (5) Select model to print & print with bed calibration.
Sure, I left out modeling software techniques and slicer settings, if not obtaining downloads of print models, but, those are a different yt search.
Happy printing !!!
Wow ChatGPT making comments on UA-cam.
Happy printing to you...
I’ve done a bit of research on my own but I was going to start my print today. I’m glad I watched this first. The point you made about how long it takes to dry isn’t one I had thought about. I was about to throw it in the dryer for an hour or two. But I think I’ll put it in to dry today and start the print tomorrow morning just to make sure.
I like facts wow! a different fact every 20 seconds, thanks for less small talk! amazing!
Glad you liked it! I try to not wast people’s time.
I have had this exact Fixdry dryer. Its not without its minor gripes, but compared to many of the other dyers it works way better.
important note: teflon = brand name for PTFE. it's what you probably have in your printer
another note: the nozzle that came with your printer is probably brass
Thanks. Those brands getting in my brain make it hard to stop using them for the real term. I used to do some construction and still have a hard time not calling cement screws Tapcons.
The enclosure is what will avoid warping. In my experience if your not getting the enclosure temperature to at least 40°C doesn't matter your using a garolite bed, it will warp and fail.
Thanks for this video. Great tip regarding use of filament dryers directly feeding the printer. Also, thanks for the heads-up about not really needing an enclosure. I'm leaning toward a Bambu A1, and your Amazon solution means I don't need to shell out the big bucks for an enclosed P1S, although I might buy a $50 grow tent to replace the cardboard someday lol. Oh, one other thing, in case you ever make a follow-up video, Nylon is a brand name, the actual material is Polyamide or PA, IIRC, so you might get more UA-cam search hits if you put "PA/Nylon" in your title next time. Keep up the great work!
Wow I didn’t know nylon was a brand name. That is really good to know. It’s crazy how many of those pop up in everyday life.
West3D Undertaker Tungsten Carbide nozzle is a much better choise than hardened steel, many many times harder and almost identical thermal properties as brass to get a good melt.
Also it is a 1-piece nozzle unlike ruby nozzles which is a piece of ruby embedded in brass.
I am not affiliated with them i just really think these nozzles are great, ive pushed almost 10kg of ASA-CF through one and its still like new.
Thanks! I haven’t heard of those. They look really nice.
@@BuildItMakeIt There is also "Bozzle Nozzle 0.5mm" but its out of production for the time being, it is the same but highflow geometry inside, hopefully in the future.
Nice! I'm new to PA-CF Tried yesterday with a new spool, Whilst my QIDI plus 4 prints easily, the layer adhesion is not great I can snap it easily on parts, at 270C and a bit better at 285C I'm drying it now in a creality filament dryer which I can keep on whilst it prints also. and hopefully Prints stronger, :) I think the part could take 300C Sticks to the bed real nice on Texured PEI / glue stick at 60c first time at 80c bed it wouldn't stick.
Thank you, also nylon 6 and 12 is uv resistant someday I will try make my own custom welding helmets.
Oh that is a cool idea. I would love to see a custom 3D welding helmet. If you do make one ping me on Instagram to I could see it.
@@BuildItMakeIt it be awhile, I need to save money and do more research which 3d printer to pick and design of the helmet also head strap.
Great video, thank you!
I have a question: I need to print an intake for a go kart engine. Where the small carburetor is on the end. Karts have no suspension so the part needs to be strong to 'shaking' with the carburetor on the end. Can you advise the type of filament I should use please?
Might be too late, but i would suggest to take a look at bambu’s ppa-cf. Its currently on sale until the 27th. Its strong and very durable. Also it’s chemically resistant, which is necessary when used on a carburetor.
With nylon being hydroscopic, what will the impact be if you use the finished nylom printed items in water?
The nylon will expand so it probably needs a coating to handle submersion. I know that epoxy is very commonly used to coat nylon parts that will be subjected to water, but on full submersion I am not sure.
Submerging nylon in water after printing is actually great for improving durability. Moisture reduces the rigidity of nylon (especially PA6), but makes it much harder to break. If you need it to stay rigid go with PA12 or PA612, ideally with carbon fiber.
With that said, nylon technically can still degrade from lots of water exposure despite its excellent chemical resistance.
can I get away with printing glass filled nylon with a .4 mm nozzle?
Yep that should work. I haven't had an issue with a .4 nozzle and glass filled before.
LOL the amazon box, neat trick
Thanks :)
This left out so many important aspects of printing nylon wtf
Perhaps you could make a video to clear everything up for us.
What sort of things did I leave out, I would love to hear some of what I missed.
@@BuildItMakeItlike actually printing a part?!
@@BlondieHappyGuyprobably wouldve mentioned it if you did.
@@BuildItMakeIt Nylon PA6 and PA12 have different mechanical properties. PA12 is more flexible, and PA6 is relatively rigid, for example.
I want to start printing small gears out of Nylon. They are relatively small, 6" diameter and smaller. What would you recommend as a starting printer, that would produce quality prints? Somewhere in the $1000 to $1500 dollar price range.
Would the Bambu Lab P1P be a good option?
@@DescendantOfAbraham For nylon you'll want a printer with an enclosure, so go with the P1S. Both printers in the P1 series are great, but there's not much point in buying the slightly inferior P1P especially if you're planning to print nylon. As for drying the filament, you can technically do it with any heated bed and a cardboard filament box (look up the technique) but since nylon absorbs moisture so quickly (it can absorb too much before the print is even finished) you might just want to buy a proper dryer. Note that dry boxes and filament dryers are very different things. One keeps the filament from absorbing more moisture while the other actually removes it from the material.
thank you!
Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
just don't store your fillament (even the packed ones) in open air.
sure if you just get it from delivery you might need to dry it out.
but mine. i order filament. and i might not use that filament for several days. (because i am not printing or using a diffrent spool)
so i store mine in a drybox. not heated or anything just a shit ton of desicant bags in there.
it litterally get the air down to the low single digit percentiles of moisture.
this is more than dry enoegh to passively dry out anything you put in there.
infact sticking your hand into the drybox makes the drybox feel much colder than the surrounding air even though it's the same temperature. (any moisture on your hands is instantly vaporising in the dry air and thus cools your hand down)
And they also increase stiff..........ness............... it sounded like your brain melted for a bit hahaha xD
Yeah sometimes that happens to the best of us :)
Use pla pla carbon it prints fine
I do like pla carbon fiber, but it doesn't hold up to water or outside usage for me over time. I also really like ASA carbon fiber filled. That gives me the durability for outdoor prints I like.
🎉