Thank you. It has been a lot of fun. We shot an update video yesterday and will get it posted next week. Hoping to get this all the way back together again in January and hopefully painted in February. How much work do you have to do on the YJ?
@@Portrayalpress subbed for updates for sure. My driver yj is rusted out bad so I drove to wv from ohio and bought a 91 rust free roller for a grand. About to pull the tub this week end. Looks to have had a rear corner strike which buckled the rear floor a bit and the topside of the rear driver well. I just can't let it go. Going to probably disassemble those parts and either use the ones off the running rust 94, make new ones or try and shrink them back to straight. Plan on doing a best of yj build using the early cj type slantback rollbar, got a rare XJ dana 44 rear and going to get a non cad hp 30 from from a 96 ish xj to use. The rusty 94 runs great and only has 140k. Also plan on running the 91 analog clock in the one dummy guage using an early yj steering wheel and going to do an early decal package and paint possibly larado but in that early toyota hilux/ uk defender county style. Rust ly 94 has a 4 inch spring under kit on it so I plan on running period pizza cutters stock 5 spoke yj wheels. Want to do arbs and gears too but that's later on. Also have a 97 tj going one tons and a 67 land rover series 11a expo build that was built back in the day with fj40 axles and a 305 v8 sbc mated to the stock rover trans case overdrive. It's a neat piece with the safari top and tailgate rear along with a clean saganaw swap and power brakes from the post 78 disc fj40. And that's not even my cars and motorcycles. Haha
@@Portrayalpress also hoping my 5 digit sn 45 willys has the t90 and not the 86 so I can maybe pop in that flathead ford v8. It's not a column shift so it could have been swapped. The floor isnt cut though and it's got mb parts like frame and tub as the first 2a's got the left over ww2 bits left over from the factory. It's a really neat piece.
@@destro513 They are definitely neat vehicles and cool history. Does it have tool indents? I am assuming yes. If it still has the original engine, you might be better off $$ with a resto.....and mod a later 2A. The YJ project sounds very nice - you have a great selection of parts to put together a monster. Post pictures here or on our FB page!
This was so amazing I am so envious I've always wanted to find a willys Jeep and then converted into a Navy version it was kind of like a dream of mine but I'm beginning to realize that dream is never going to become reality but watching this was awesome you are so lucky to have that jeep thanks for posting the video.
Thanks for the nice comment - sorry we missed it when you posted. Hope you have enjoyed the series. The jeep is nearly finished and we will be posted a "glamour" video (driving, details, etc.) of it soon.
@@Portrayalpress forward to seeing the videos I love Willy's Jeep I just converted a 125th scale model of a willys army jeep into a Navy Jeep to go with my Navy ship collection from world war II.
I keep coming back to your videos for inspiration Pat, they really are very good. Quick question please.....when you drill out a panel that you want to work on and then spot weld back in place, you've obviously got a lot of spot weld drill holes to deal with. I guess you fill these with weld and grind back but is there a problem when you come to spot weld one of these weld-filled areas? Does the spot welder handle it like it was virgin metal (as long as it's clean and shiny)? Thanks!
Greetings David. I am really happy to hear that you are finding these videos helpful! So, when I drill out spot welds, I prefer to drill on either the least visible side or the side that I am going to replace. If I can do that, then I don't have to worry about your question because I am welding fresh metal to metal that has been cleaned, but generally not welded (unless I break thru drilling a spot weld). That works best. If I have to drill out the side that I am going to keep, then I usually drill straight through both panels and get the seam separated. Then, you have to repair the panel (or both if both are being saved). Use copper backing and TIG is better than MIG here (if you can) but both will work. Weld up the holes, carefully grind flat and then fix any distortion caused by the welding etc. If you do a good job, you can spotweld it at that point. Usually, though, I find it easier to just plug weld the seam since you already have the holes drilled. Fill 'em up with the new panel tightly clamped. Then grind and if you want at that point, go back over the repair with the spot welder to get it to look just like you want. I like this method better because I know the panels won't come apart and I can make it look original. Hope that helps! We recently launched www.portrayal.tv - check it out if you have a minute - would love to hear your feedback. One of the things we will do is have a monthly member zoom call where we will have someone do a little presentation on something - like spot welds and then the group can ask questions. The first series will be probably be on engine rebuilding because I am rebuilding two motors right now...but we can certainly do a spot welding session as well. Cheers!
Thank you for the comments James. We will definitely show you the mods - one side is a "permanent" mod (welded) and the other an adapter so the engine stand can easily be used as an engine stand after the tub is finished.
Thank you for tuning in and commenting! Yes, the goal is to post a new video every Friday. For right now, the tub is going to be the focus until it is finished. We will probably video the reassembly, which will start as soon as the tub is done since the rest is pretty much ready to go. Please let us know if there is anything in particular that you want to see.
Lots of work, but we proved the "experts" wrong. Check out the finished product! ua-cam.com/video/bGKSsA6XPfg/v-deo.html
I guess I am quite randomly asking but does anyone know of a good website to stream newly released series online?
@Mohammad Samir flixportal :P
@Micah Kairo thanks, I went there and it seems like a nice service =) I really appreciate it!
@Mohammad Samir no problem xD
Aha! - Now I'm in the stream to watch you restore your Jeep. I'll tag this video and use it as my jump off point to find the whole series.
Welcome! This one took me forever - lots of distractions....but I have had a blast with it over the last 2 plus years. You know the drill! 😀
This is amazing. I have one of the first 2000 vec cj2a jeeps and am about to do this exact same tub resto on a couple yjs
Thank you. It has been a lot of fun. We shot an update video yesterday and will get it posted next week. Hoping to get this all the way back together again in January and hopefully painted in February.
How much work do you have to do on the YJ?
@@Portrayalpress subbed for updates for sure. My driver yj is rusted out bad so I drove to wv from ohio and bought a 91 rust free roller for a grand. About to pull the tub this week end. Looks to have had a rear corner strike which buckled the rear floor a bit and the topside of the rear driver well. I just can't let it go. Going to probably disassemble those parts and either use the ones off the running rust 94, make new ones or try and shrink them back to straight. Plan on doing a best of yj build using the early cj type slantback rollbar, got a rare XJ dana 44 rear and going to get a non cad hp 30 from from a 96 ish xj to use. The rusty 94 runs great and only has 140k. Also plan on running the 91 analog clock in the one dummy guage using an early yj steering wheel and going to do an early decal package and paint possibly larado but in that early toyota hilux/ uk defender county style. Rust ly 94 has a 4 inch spring under kit on it so I plan on running period pizza cutters stock 5 spoke yj wheels. Want to do arbs and gears too but that's later on. Also have a 97 tj going one tons and a 67 land rover series 11a expo build that was built back in the day with fj40 axles and a 305 v8 sbc mated to the stock rover trans case overdrive. It's a neat piece with the safari top and tailgate rear along with a clean saganaw swap and power brakes from the post 78 disc fj40. And that's not even my cars and motorcycles. Haha
@@Portrayalpress also hoping my 5 digit sn 45 willys has the t90 and not the 86 so I can maybe pop in that flathead ford v8. It's not a column shift so it could have been swapped. The floor isnt cut though and it's got mb parts like frame and tub as the first 2a's got the left over ww2 bits left over from the factory. It's a really neat piece.
@@destro513 They are definitely neat vehicles and cool history. Does it have tool indents? I am assuming yes. If it still has the original engine, you might be better off $$ with a resto.....and mod a later 2A.
The YJ project sounds very nice - you have a great selection of parts to put together a monster. Post pictures here or on our FB page!
This was so amazing I am so envious I've always wanted to find a willys Jeep and then converted into a Navy version it was kind of like a dream of mine but I'm beginning to realize that dream is never going to become reality but watching this was awesome you are so lucky to have that jeep thanks for posting the video.
Thanks for the nice comment - sorry we missed it when you posted. Hope you have enjoyed the series. The jeep is nearly finished and we will be posted a "glamour" video (driving, details, etc.) of it soon.
@@Portrayalpress forward to seeing the videos I love Willy's Jeep I just converted a 125th scale model of a willys army jeep into a Navy Jeep to go with my Navy ship collection from world war II.
I keep coming back to your videos for inspiration Pat, they really are very good. Quick question please.....when you drill out a panel that you want to work on and then spot weld back in place, you've obviously got a lot of spot weld drill holes to deal with. I guess you fill these with weld and grind back but is there a problem when you come to spot weld one of these weld-filled areas? Does the spot welder handle it like it was virgin metal (as long as it's clean and shiny)? Thanks!
Greetings David. I am really happy to hear that you are finding these videos helpful! So, when I drill out spot welds, I prefer to drill on either the least visible side or the side that I am going to replace. If I can do that, then I don't have to worry about your question because I am welding fresh metal to metal that has been cleaned, but generally not welded (unless I break thru drilling a spot weld). That works best. If I have to drill out the side that I am going to keep, then I usually drill straight through both panels and get the seam separated. Then, you have to repair the panel (or both if both are being saved). Use copper backing and TIG is better than MIG here (if you can) but both will work. Weld up the holes, carefully grind flat and then fix any distortion caused by the welding etc. If you do a good job, you can spotweld it at that point. Usually, though, I find it easier to just plug weld the seam since you already have the holes drilled. Fill 'em up with the new panel tightly clamped. Then grind and if you want at that point, go back over the repair with the spot welder to get it to look just like you want. I like this method better because I know the panels won't come apart and I can make it look original. Hope that helps!
We recently launched www.portrayal.tv - check it out if you have a minute - would love to hear your feedback. One of the things we will do is have a monthly member zoom call where we will have someone do a little presentation on something - like spot welds and then the group can ask questions. The first series will be probably be on engine rebuilding because I am rebuilding two motors right now...but we can certainly do a spot welding session as well. Cheers!
@@Portrayalpress Thanks for the great advice Pat, you're a star. Will certainly check out your link. Thanks
👍 👍 👍
Thank you!
I’ve got a 43 tub in my garden it needs going
Pull it into the shop Dave and get after it! :-)
Looking forward to more videos, please show how you intend to modify the engine stands to make your rotisserie. That seems like a great idea!
Thank you for the comments James. We will definitely show you the mods - one side is a "permanent" mod (welded) and the other an adapter so the engine stand can easily be used as an engine stand after the tub is finished.
Buen día,un gran agradecimiento por esplicarnos cómo restaurar los willys y saludo cordial desde Argentina
De nada! Agradezco el complemento y me alegra que vieras el video y lo hayas disfrutado! Saludos!
will you upload regularly now?
Thank you for tuning in and commenting!
Yes, the goal is to post a new video every Friday. For right now, the tub is going to be the focus until it is finished. We will probably video the reassembly, which will start as soon as the tub is done since the rest is pretty much ready to go.
Please let us know if there is anything in particular that you want to see.