You need to find a mechanic. If you don't know what you are looking at. I worked for Porsche for 20 years and you don't have any confidence of what you are doing.
You prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly lost the password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
I've never seen a TW engine painted like that. Looks cool. I'm in the process of changing a crankshaft due to oil starvation. I didn't tighten the oil galley bolt after an oil change and things went south in a hurry. My piston was ruined. I put in a new piston/rings, honed the cyclinder as it was ok. Ran good for about 6 months of riding and then the crank problem happened. The lower rod bearing was gone. You had wiggle in your rod, I had wiggle waggle :). Thanks for sharing your video.
Powder coating the cases is fun, makes them look different. I just picked up a BW200 that has some wiggle waggle in the rod, probably had a similar problem to yours. Good luck!
just bought an 81 xt250 with the same problem, sounds like top end but i don't think it is. just about to pull the motor and check it out. i think it will be same as yours. the engines look similar. good to see someone take one apart so i can see how it goes. cheers.
The sound of a bad rod is very similar to valve clicking. Just picked up a Yamaha Big Wheel with the same bad rod problem. Previous owner put 3 heads on it and then gave up.
Great job. Bout a xt225 awhile back and rebuilt it same way top and bottom. Starts and idles good but at around half throttle it starts cutting out. I slid it to the back burner out of frustration but hope to get back to it soon. Could be slipping clutch, carb, electronic, leaking valves. I'll get it sorted out one of these days.
What make crankcase splitter tool have you got ? And poss part no if you know please and also slide hammer , reason being that there is no point buying inferior tools for a job like this. Regards mark
The splitter and crank puller are made by tusk - www.amazon.com/Tusk-Splitter-Separator-Puller-Installer/dp/B00PNWAW26 Agree 100% on getting quality tools. It's what separates us from the monkeys ;)
Take lots of photos, find a good forum, and stop by here with any questions. You got this! Also...put your parts in ziplock bags and label them. Label.
" As always beat stuff with a hammer " hahaha, noted. 😂 Watching this while doing a top end Rebuild. Leaking oil through front of head/cylinder? Replacing the gaskets and hopefully it'll work. Tried patching it but just kept weeping a lil oil so I decided to rip it apart and replace it. Was hoping to see some video of your process with that if you have any. If not that's okay, thanks anyways and awesome video man. Salud from Cali.
There are two O-rings that go around the head studs. One goes with the base gasket and one goes with the cylinder gasket. I'd bet those are missing or deteriorated. I can't screen shot it but yamahapartshouse.com has a good parts diagram of how it all goes. May as well replace the base and head gasket while you're there. Should be a pretty cheap parts bill :)
They don't. They need to be "timed" so they are in the correct phase, but the weight/balance of a new crank is not different enough to require a new matching/balanced counterbalance shaft. In reality i bet the components vary within a few ounces most likely. So a perfect 0 gram balance isn't achieved from the factory, or ever.
You said you increased the bore size on this rebuild. Can you tell me new the bore size and displacement? I'm assuming you kept the same rod, but bored out the cylinder and increased the piston and ring sizes, right?
It was bored the first size over, which is .5mm. Displacement increase is negligible but can be calculated. You can keep the same rod. You do need a new piston and rings, correct.
@@robertmiller1270 Yes. .5mm larger than stock bore size. Stock bore is 67mm in diameter. After boring, it's now 67.5 in diameter. Displacement is about 206cc now.
Thank you for this. I just picked up a 93 that was run out of oil. I'd like to tackle this as well. Would you recommend rebore, new piston and run to see? Or just do it?
Thanks! I'd advise a rebore if you have the time, energy and money. But if the cylinder walls look good, a light hone and quick check of bore dimensions should work for you. Always do new rings, at least. If the piston looks okay you can run it. I clean mine with a soft wire wheel when I reuse them.
@@texanmotoworks4274 thanks for your reply. In specific I'm wondering about crankshaft replacement. The cylinder and piston HAVE to be redone. Looks like they were removed from the bike and dragged behind a truck for 100 miles. The crank had a little bit of wiggle like yours. Just wondering if you recommend replacing the piston 1st and running, or just move forward and replace the crank since I'm 1/2 way there anyways?
@@WAenduroman ahh, got it. Yes replace the crank while you're in there. You can find them online whole or just get a new rod and bearings and have the crank sent to the machine shop with your piston.
With any bearing install use differential heating. Example: case bearings drop straight in if you heat the case to about 300 degrees and freeze the bearing overnight. Do that the the crank bearings and you should get close. When closing the cases the mechanical force will press the bearings on the crank. HIGHLY recommend getting a "crank puller" tool. Makes the job easy.
Dear Texan Motorworks, thank you for posting this video. I appreciate the effort it takes to shoot and post videos to youtube. In the spirit of improving your vids, please get a tripod. The floating, hand-held camera is OK for specific shots but using that method for the whole video makes it unwatchable. Also, when holding the camera, don't wave it around so much. You make the viewers motion sick.
Evan Johnson I downloaded mine from the tw200 forums. I believe this link should work. Great community. www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/70-service-repair-manuals.html#/topics/70
For engine parts roughly $300 but that was going through parts catalogs online like partzilla. You can do it cheaper on ebay if you have patience and good luck
Hammer ;) Really it's all basic handtools. The only speciality tools that you will want are a case splitter and crank puller. Tusk makes them, or generic finds on Amazon are out there. About 150 dollars for the set.
My 2007 TW200 died due to oil starvation on a long ride. I have the opportunity to buy a new low end 2004 motor with low mileage for $300. Do you think the 2004 and 2007 engine parts can be combined? Thanks.
It's likely because they haven't really changed the design on this bike much over 30 years. check a parts website like www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/yam/50044eeff8700209bc7917f6/2004-tw200-tw200s-parts to see if the part numbers are the same.
You need to find a mechanic. If you don't know what you are looking at. I worked for Porsche for 20 years and you don't have any confidence of what you are doing.
I'm sure the first thing YOU wrenched on was a customer's Porsche, right? And you did so with complete confidence?
I'ts a cheap little trail bike.
Oh, look. It runs. Shocking.
and yet here you are trolling dirtbike videos from years ago...I bet your coworkers hated you.
You prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly lost the password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Benicio Kai instablaster :)
I'm going through the exact same thing with an XT225, basically the same engine, thanks for posting the video!
I've never seen a TW engine painted like that. Looks cool. I'm in the process of changing a crankshaft due to oil starvation. I didn't tighten the oil galley bolt after an oil change and things went south in a hurry. My piston was ruined. I put in a new piston/rings, honed the cyclinder as it was ok. Ran good for about 6 months of riding and then the crank problem happened. The lower rod bearing was gone. You had wiggle in your rod, I had wiggle waggle :). Thanks for sharing your video.
Powder coating the cases is fun, makes them look different. I just picked up a BW200 that has some wiggle waggle in the rod, probably had a similar problem to yours. Good luck!
Wtf is a oil galley bolt?
Nice to see someone doing it the right way, great job kid...
Awesome rebuild ...........and great color engine ! Thanks Sir for your time..........i love these bikes
The green top end of that WR, so pretty!
Wow... your skills are impressive man! Great vid!
The bike runs great, and I noticed the detail on the find, nice touch!
just bought an 81 xt250 with the same problem, sounds like top end but i don't think it is. just about to pull the motor and check it out. i think it will be same as yours. the engines look similar. good to see someone take one apart so i can see how it goes. cheers.
The sound of a bad rod is very similar to valve clicking. Just picked up a Yamaha Big Wheel with the same bad rod problem. Previous owner put 3 heads on it and then gave up.
Great job. Bout a xt225 awhile back and rebuilt it same way top and bottom. Starts and idles good but at around half throttle it starts cutting out. I slid it to the back burner out of frustration but hope to get back to it soon. Could be slipping clutch, carb, electronic, leaking valves. I'll get it sorted out one of these days.
Good job. I'm always amazed that people can take on those jobs. Beyond my ability. 👍👍
Thank you!!! Im about to rebuild my tdubs engine and this is an amazing how to do it properly video!
It blows my mind that a high end mtb can easily cost $8000 when a brand new motorbike costs much less yet has so many more parts.
Right?? I've never understood how the engineering and manufacturing of high end bicycle parts justifies the cost.
They make profits by producing in large quantity
@@ynk996 and cheap labor...
@@texanmotoworks4274 hi there, quick question.
How was the camshaft? Any sludge in the camhead?
Does the camshaft has ball bearings???
Great video
Looks drop dead gorgeous in white (the engine)
What make crankcase splitter tool have you got ? And poss part no if you know please and also slide hammer , reason being that there is no point buying inferior tools for a job like this.
Regards mark
The splitter and crank puller are made by tusk - www.amazon.com/Tusk-Splitter-Separator-Puller-Installer/dp/B00PNWAW26
Agree 100% on getting quality tools. It's what separates us from the monkeys ;)
You make this look and sound easy. Now i gotta rebuild my engine
Take lots of photos, find a good forum, and stop by here with any questions. You got this! Also...put your parts in ziplock bags and label them. Label.
" As always beat stuff with a hammer " hahaha, noted. 😂 Watching this while doing a top end Rebuild. Leaking oil through front of head/cylinder? Replacing the gaskets and hopefully it'll work. Tried patching it but just kept weeping a lil oil so I decided to rip it apart and replace it. Was hoping to see some video of your process with that if you have any. If not that's okay, thanks anyways and awesome video man. Salud from Cali.
There are two O-rings that go around the head studs. One goes with the base gasket and one goes with the cylinder gasket. I'd bet those are missing or deteriorated. I can't screen shot it but yamahapartshouse.com has a good parts diagram of how it all goes. May as well replace the base and head gasket while you're there. Should be a pretty cheap parts bill :)
I would've put the BW triples and forks in the Tdub. Might as well have fat wheel in the front too
Amazing video, thank you!
Do the countershaft and crankshaft need to be balanced together? Since you changed the crank does the counter need to be mated to it?
They don't. They need to be "timed" so they are in the correct phase, but the weight/balance of a new crank is not different enough to require a new matching/balanced counterbalance shaft. In reality i bet the components vary within a few ounces most likely. So a perfect 0 gram balance isn't achieved from the factory, or ever.
Is it me alone I feel like the shift drum is impossible to fit in the case...?
Any update on the bike, mods, changed the front forks yet?
wow, i was searching for a video like that, mine doesn't engage 5th gear..I'm going to disassemble the engine.
UPDATE: it works.
What was wrong with it exactly
You said you increased the bore size on this rebuild. Can you tell me new the bore size and displacement? I'm assuming you kept the same rod, but bored out the cylinder and increased the piston and ring sizes, right?
It was bored the first size over, which is .5mm. Displacement increase is negligible but can be calculated. You can keep the same rod. You do need a new piston and rings, correct.
@@texanmotoworks4274 .5?
@@robertmiller1270 Yes. .5mm larger than stock bore size. Stock bore is 67mm in diameter. After boring, it's now 67.5 in diameter. Displacement is about 206cc now.
Awesome video.
Who do you use in Minnesota for your crank rebuild?
www.billbune.com/ Fair prices, quality work.
Hey guys, im planning to do a top rebuild, but I'm sending it to a shop to do it. Could you guys help me out with the parts I would need to purchase?
Are you selling any parts that your not using on your tw?
Thank you for this. I just picked up a 93 that was run out of oil. I'd like to tackle this as well. Would you recommend rebore, new piston and run to see? Or just do it?
Thanks! I'd advise a rebore if you have the time, energy and money. But if the cylinder walls look good, a light hone and quick check of bore dimensions should work for you.
Always do new rings, at least. If the piston looks okay you can run it. I clean mine with a soft wire wheel when I reuse them.
@@texanmotoworks4274 thanks for your reply. In specific I'm wondering about crankshaft replacement. The cylinder and piston HAVE to be redone. Looks like they were removed from the bike and dragged behind a truck for 100 miles. The crank had a little bit of wiggle like yours. Just wondering if you recommend replacing the piston 1st and running, or just move forward and replace the crank since I'm 1/2 way there anyways?
@@WAenduroman ahh, got it. Yes replace the crank while you're in there. You can find them online whole or just get a new rod and bearings and have the crank sent to the machine shop with your piston.
@@texanmotoworks4274 thank you for your help and time.
Hi.. I'm looking for a carburetor, seat n fuel tank for a tw125.. Can you please help me out
That was an interesting watch. Thanks for posting!
Pretty sure your connecting rod should have some/ little left to right. You wanna check vertically up and down.
Should there be pressure coming out of the crank case when its running
Yes. The crankcase vent is made to route back to the airbox.
loved this ,, informative , fun and great outcome......... feels like im back in the bike garage working... sigh ^* :D much appreciated
Wow great job!!!
How did you press the crankshaft bearings?
With any bearing install use differential heating. Example: case bearings drop straight in if you heat the case to about 300 degrees and freeze the bearing overnight. Do that the the crank bearings and you should get close. When closing the cases the mechanical force will press the bearings on the crank. HIGHLY recommend getting a "crank puller" tool. Makes the job easy.
Bill Bune is my neighbor and an old friend. I also have a T-Dub, and it's a real shame to see yours so badly abused.
I bet they used the wrong oil filter,
Was that sludge on the clutch cover as well?
All. Over. Oil filter housing, clutch cover, drain plug.
do i have to remove bearing to replace crankshaft
You may be able to work around it, but I always replace. It's not has hard of a job as it seems.
Dear Texan Motorworks, thank you for posting this video. I appreciate the effort it takes to shoot and post videos to youtube. In the spirit of improving your vids, please get a tripod. The floating, hand-held camera is OK for specific shots but using that method for the whole video makes it unwatchable. Also, when holding the camera, don't wave it around so much. You make the viewers motion sick.
Do you have a pdf copy of that shop manual?
Evan Johnson I downloaded mine from the tw200 forums. I believe this link should work. Great community. www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/70-service-repair-manuals.html#/topics/70
How much did you pay in just parts?
For engine parts roughly $300 but that was going through parts catalogs online like partzilla. You can do it cheaper on ebay if you have patience and good luck
Okay, can I get a complete list of all tools and machines used for this or necessary to do this 😂
Hammer ;) Really it's all basic handtools. The only speciality tools that you will want are a case splitter and crank puller. Tusk makes them, or generic finds on Amazon are out there. About 150 dollars for the set.
@@texanmotoworks4274 I love it ! Thank you! Shout out to Texas! One of my favourite states!
My 2007 TW200 died due to oil starvation on a long ride. I have the opportunity to buy a new low end 2004 motor with low mileage for $300. Do you think the 2004 and 2007 engine parts can be combined? Thanks.
It's likely because they haven't really changed the design on this bike much over 30 years. check a parts website like www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/yam/50044eeff8700209bc7917f6/2004-tw200-tw200s-parts to see if the part numbers are the same.
Hola tengo una moto TW pero necesito repuestos
I would have flipped the fk out when the oil came gushing out. Would have been cussing up a flippin storm.
A full synthetic oil change costs $20. How lazy do you have to be to do THIS to a bike?
Anyone in Houston area want to buy my 2003 tdub the rod is knocking it's to small for me just want it gone
How much are you asking for
You never want to paint a tdub engine white. They are notorious oil leakers.
From the paint???
My friend please send mee work shop manual I wont engine assembly in my tw 200 bikee please send mee
My guess is that somebody used some junk oil additive
Shade tree mechanic and Yamaha engines don't mix