I have a 3D printer and have started to use it for a number of boat projects that cover new ice box trays (old ones rusted) to flexible covers for my instruments. Might even try printing flexible which covers. I’d love to see you make a video on this as it’s becoming more and more accessible to non-3D printer enthusiasts and relatively cheap to get into ($300) for a reliable printer. If you’d like to collaborate on a video showing what’s possible, I’d be happy to show you what I’ve been doing.
Used Cetol for 17 years on my C34. Easy to maintain and close enough to varnish for my taste as long as you don't put a varnish piece and Cetol Piece side by side. Current boat has zero exterior teak. Best solution of all.
The very best thing about this video is that it confirms what I already “thought” I knew. We’ve only been living aboard for 4 months (less a week), and these are all tips we’ve already discovered and are using right now. I wasn’t sure about the rot tips but my plan to fix a soft spot by the anchor locker was exactly how you laid it out. So yay, I’m not completely hopeless I guess!
Tim, I’ve tried everything on the teak over 50 years of sailboat maintenance & I hafta agree, Cetol is the best teak coating out there! Easy 2 use & lasts 4 years, not months! Haven’t even touched it up in 3 years now & still looks great! No other product has made it beyond a year without needing a mega redo! Great video! 👌❤️
LOVE THIS. I just bought a 1979 Islander and this is like a love letter to me. I would love a whole series on 'boat hacks' or some content thing where every Friday is a boat hack video to look forward to!
@@rickoshea5835 If you live near small enough water, just buy the best $5K trailer sailer you can. Up to around 22ft, a 30 lb thrust 12V and at least 55ah battery is good enough if necessary. Try not to run past medium speed. You won't have much to work on and all the real sailing controls will be there. 2.5L Subaru or similar can tow that size. Personally, I don't recommend Catalina 22'.
@@rickoshea5835 I thought I left a post earlier that if your water is small enough buy a $2-6K trailer sailer and begin the journey. If you start too big the boat will sail you and you won't progress adequately. (I must have posted because that's why I got notified of the new reply. YT has really deteriorated.)
If you have a money surplus it really isn't hard... If like the rest of us, you don't then accepting that the maintenance i just part of it and as the other commenter said, learn new stuff and fix it you'll be fine. However it is a commitment and time sink and remember the word BOAT means Bring Out Another Thousand!
I'm just getting into research on sailboats, was a former motor vessel owner. I'm also a polymer chemist. Anything labeled as "marine" will cost 2x-5x more for the name. As another person mentioned the cutting boards are likely HDPE and its pretty cheap when sourced direct. Almost every chemical product you buy is just a relabeled product from a bigger manufacturer. Those 2 part epoxy resins are not designed to flow. What I am finding in my research is that if you think a little outside the "marine" box many things can be done for much more reasonable prices.
I used 1/2" thick Goodwill cutting board plastic with 3M 5200 to mount level sonar to stern exterior, charge controllers to lazerett interiors, and a bilge pump to lower lazerett. The section for bilge pump came loose but hoses hold it okay. The other 2 working great.
Tip #1 is only correct for OEM type internally regulated alternators. If you install an externally regulated high-output alternator with a smart regulator, it can be very effective at charging LFP. In my own boat, I have a 250A large frame alternator controlled by a Zeus regulator which is powered by my 23-hp diesel. It charges my 560Ah LFP battery from 0% SOC to 100% SOC in 3 hours while anchored at 1400 rpm and in less than 4-hours while underway.
Just a couple additions. You don’t have to live with seams in the deck, if you’re willing to spend the time, you can blend both the smooth parts and the non-skid. You can make your own mold off your non-skid but you can buy pre-made flexible molds to match all the most common manufacturer’s non-skid patterns. You basically just get the area prepped for gelcoat, paint it on, then lay the mold over it while it cures, then peel the mold back off. It leaves you with an invisible repair. The PVC is a great alternative for many things and here in the states you can buy it in sheets as well. I recently bought a 2’x4’ 3/4” sheet from one of the box stores for a project I’ve been working on. One downside is that the edges are visibly porous and trap dirt as opposed to starboard, so that’s worth considering when deciding where it’s a suitable substitute and where the real McCoy may be a better choice. Acrylic is nice too for some places. It’s not any cheaper than starboard but can give a nicer appearance for some projects.
Another way to hack a soft deck problem is to evaluate accessibility from within the boat. If you can access the spot to be excavated from the underside, the repair can be made without damage to the top deck. A bit more messy taking gravity into account but you can use an epoxy thickening agent to minimize mess and vacuum bag the repaired surface to eliminate air.
When i bought my Pearson 26 back in 1972, I was advised to pour real sugared Coca Cola into the swashes of the rigging and then seal it with epoxy. 52- years later, the rigging is still in great shape. I cannot complain about good advice. I just passed the sailboat on to my son and we will reply this technique to the rigging. The other secret is to not over tighten the rigging. It should only be tight and balanced on the side taking the wind. I keep the rigging loose such that the downwind side is relaxed.
Cetol is the best I have found If you want that shiny look of a high grade varnish job use three coats of Cetol with total boat halcyon over that . I use clear and it comes out great.
Brilliant video! More please! Cetol/ Woodskin is great stuff but it has a brown tinge so that over time re-coating will send the item towards brown. I use it on things like washboards or tillers I can easily re-make. I'm guessing the UV resistance is given by whatever makes it brown. If there were a truly clear version I wouldn't use anything else. My best tip for maintaining a boat is get a 3D printer if you can draw in any 3D software that can output STL files. These days they're cheap and easy to use and there's heaps of info around. It really is a no-brainer. Cheap PLA for indoors, PETG for outside, TPU for anything flexible. To give you some idea my tabernacle is mounted to the cabin top on solid printed PETG shaped perfectly to the curve of the roof. The wedges under the mast are also solid PETG. This stuff is unbelievably tough. I've made over 100 objects in the 3 months since I bought one, the majority for the boat.
Regarding teak on boats a discovery: we use a water based product from Vermont Coatings it has UV protection and is available clear or with various tints. It goes on like water so you have to be careful with any drips. The best part is that it dries very rapidly and its possible to apply several coats one after the other. At some point a built up finish will need to be removed, I find that is comes off easily, well easier than varnish. It’s available at hareware and pain store at least here in the NE.
We used 4x8 sheets of 1/2 inch pvc to replace our old soft dodger into a rigid dodger. +-$100 per sheet. It is our 5th year and it hold up well and looks great. ✌🏼❤️🌈
Here on the Chesapeake Bay, it seems as if Cetol is the only thing anyone puts on teak. I would like it more if it had less pigment to allow more of the wood grain to show.
After watching another channels tips, I’ve started leaving a dish washing tab in my galley and bathroom sink. Looking for a solution for mould, I’ve heard leaving bleach in a cup when you’re off the boat works. All ways interested in core repair, thank you for that information.
Was thinking about the use of vinegar for the pee diverter and I’ve use vinegar on the boat a lot but maybe another option would be using bulk buy lemon juice to spray after the use.
I had an O'Day 22. Its balsa-cored deck developed some not-too-large "soft spots." I did not want to break the deck's integrity by cutting out a top surface piece. I marked an outline of the areas, drilled holes (1/8" +-) just inside of the outer borders, and several holes inside the area. I purchased a tube of NON-EXPANDING insulting foam at my local hardware store. Next, I injected the foam into the holes. The moisture in the core will react with the foam and harden up. The foam will expand out the holes. After the foam sets up cut it level with the deck. Take your drill and clean out the holes (1/8"). Fill the holes with JB Weld (or a similar product) even with the deck surface. Dab the filled holes with matching paint. This procedure works with "smaller" areas. If you have to repair a large area, I would avoid cutting the top deck. I would prefer to work inside the boat, from the bottom up.
Cetol has stain in it, and like a stain, if you don't take the time to sand properly and thoroughly you will get a blotchy result. As you like to say, ask me how i know. In my experience you're better off just vanishing, if it ends up uneven you can just sand it back next time and try again but at least your didn't ruin your teak.
Great video! PVC is quite durable but for many reasons it's not ideal for the marine environment. The cutting boards you used were more likely made from HDPE (high density polyethylene) which combined with mechanical fasteners (it doesn't glue well) is a much better choice. HDPE can be purchased in sheet or partial sheet form (for bigger jobs) for a very good price from local commercial plastic suppliers. Most sources offer a variety of thickness' but generally the pallet includes black or white only which may limit its use in a project. I personally used HDPE to replace the wooden floor boards in my 10' Achilles inflatable dinghy 17 years ago, and it still like new. (Which is more than I can say about the Hypalon dinghy) As you have noted it is easy to machine, and the white color at least stands up very well to direct UV exposure, and most salt water environments. A little know fact is that StarBoard is actually a well marketed HDPE sheet with a texture finish and custom colors. Save your money!
These are great and all good tips. Boric acid or borax also great for pee smell and the product DSV great and sorry, cetol is horrible, does not look as good and is a pain when it starts peeling. I am a wood scientist and natural grey will last the longest. Also the Penashield is great for stop more soft decks and diffuses where it cannot reach immediately. Cheers, Valkyrie III (Pearson 35).
Just say no to Cetol unless you have an Island Packet. I very much prefer Epifanes gloss varnish. Yeah, the initial application takes a little longer to build up the minimum 8-10 coats, but it is worth it. Once you get the initial build up done, a couple of coats a year will keep your teak/mahogany looking great. In a pinch you can cut corners and go with Pettit Captains varnish, but the initial build will require more coats.
Azek, not Aztec, is porous on all but its two finished faces, and will allow mold on cut edges. Do not use that kind of material for any exposed application, much softer than $tarboard too, unfortunately.
My number one rule of boating: don’t buy a boat with wood on it. But I put a wood cap on our sprint pole and have a wood tiller. Three seasons ago I out West epoxy on both then used Total Boat Halcyon, a water based marine varnish. Three years later (5 1/2 month seasons) they both look brand new. I should patent this!
@@romaniandracula I learned to use a sewing machine and made a slip cover for the tiller..... Now looking for fabric UV protection so the 2nd one lasts more than 3yrs......
Hey Tim, what is a good hack to keep my vinyl seats from frying and mildew while covered in the sun. I used 303 before covering, now the top of the seats that touched the cover are burnt looking and crisp.
Great as always. Cetol seems interesting. I recently tried TotalBoat Lust - also no sanding between coats, and you don't have to wait 24 hours for a second coat, just one. Looks fantastic for exterior but too glossy for my liking for interior. Price looks about the same, $50/qt
I don't have a boat (yet), but from a solar DIY perspective Lithium batteries based specifically on LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) chemistry are pretty much impossible to catch fire themselves. The risk is more an old-school electrical fire in the wiring, which any battery of sufficient size can feed. Proper choice of wire size and insulation, wire dress and support, and proper fusing of everything, is essential for overall safety. Pay special attention to connections, both the screw terminals and crimps, as they can appear secure but may have high resistance which causes heat. I always view my electrical systems with an IR camera when under load (they're remarkable at finding hot spots), and be sure you have electrical-rated fire extinguishers at hand.
@@tubeuser2350 Nice reply. I have an IR Temp Gun and I've never thought to scan my boat electric on a sunny day with everything running. All my elec is DIY so well worth a check.
@@oldmansailor Interesting. What chemistry batteries did they (and Boeing) use? It matters. The news-making battery fires I've researched have all been either improper charging or failure of a Lithium Polymer battery, or a manufacturing defect in the cells of Lithium ion (NMC, LCO, etc) packs in the case of the Chevy Bolt EVs. A search of yacht fire articles have pointed to the owner's e-bike, scooter, or other battery-powered "toy" as the culprits, and yeah, those Li-Po batteries are definitely bad news. If a Lithium Iron Phosphate cell caught fire, I'd really be interested in understanding how that happened. Any specific references?
most of products which says marine is useless to buy. they are 5-10 times overprised compared to materials which are ment for house construction. same for batteries, electronics etc.
I’m an aircraft mechanic and my house is ocean front. I use a product called ACF-50 for corrosion protection on door and window hardware and in my electronics. I wonder if people are using this on their boats. It works much better than WD40 or any of the Kano products.
No they’re not. Plastic cutting boards are made from High Density PolyEthylene. So is Starboard, but it is a higher quality and has more UV inhibitors.
Item 1. Generators and batteries. I think what is wrong with your piece is how you come to believe what you repeat. Key word gullible. I would like to see you learn proper storage, charging, and care, but it starts with basic battery care and never leaves. No, alternators are rarely the weak link, and not all batteries respond the same to the same charge. My 10DS alternator can charge all kinds of 12 ish volt batteries and it's nothing special. The majority of our off grid battery videos are bad and boating just takes it's own flavor of getting things wrong. Without a little tutoring, I can say it's how you learned your electric facts.
@@stanleybest8833 Some alternator design is made for keeping a starting battery with enough charge to start, full. My 8hp 2-stroke charge loop doesn't have a voltage regulator. I've seen 15V on the battery and my sensitive electronics get little blips. I bought a DC/DC charger with 13.8V output. Yet to install. If the auto tiller stops drifting while outboard is on I'll call it a success. Don't care about optimizing charging amps.
@@stanleybest8833 I'm no Lithium authority so I don't give Lithium advice. My boat is a little light so I'm thrilled to have 2 lead deep cell close to center, near the mast, below the waterline. I rarely discharge below 15%, solar fills them everyday. Hope they last forever :-)
Tim, I really love these new videos on Practical Sailor. You’re perfect for it and I learn so much with each episode.
I really miss receiving actual print and keeping my own library.
I have a 3D printer and have started to use it for a number of boat projects that cover new ice box trays (old ones rusted) to flexible covers for my instruments. Might even try printing flexible which covers. I’d love to see you make a video on this as it’s becoming more and more accessible to non-3D printer enthusiasts and relatively cheap to get into ($300) for a reliable printer. If you’d like to collaborate on a video showing what’s possible, I’d be happy to show you what I’ve been doing.
Completely agree - didn't see your comment until I'd said roughly the same thing. Why not make a video yourself on 3D printing specifically for boats?
Used Cetol for 17 years on my C34. Easy to maintain and close enough to varnish for my taste as long as you don't put a varnish piece and Cetol Piece side by side. Current boat has zero exterior teak. Best solution of all.
Did the same on my Catalina 25, then my Pearson 28-II
The very best thing about this video is that it confirms what I already “thought” I knew. We’ve only been living aboard for 4 months (less a week), and these are all tips we’ve already discovered and are using right now. I wasn’t sure about the rot tips but my plan to fix a soft spot by the anchor locker was exactly how you laid it out. So yay, I’m not completely hopeless I guess!
Tim, I’ve tried everything on the teak over 50 years of sailboat maintenance & I hafta agree, Cetol is the best teak coating out there! Easy 2 use & lasts 4 years, not months! Haven’t even touched it up in 3 years now & still looks great! No other product has made it beyond a year without needing a mega redo! Great video! 👌❤️
LOVE THIS. I just bought a 1979 Islander and this is like a love letter to me. I would love a whole series on 'boat hacks' or some content thing where every Friday is a boat hack video to look forward to!
Thank you. One of the things keeping me out of my own boat is not knowing how hard the maintenance will be. Videos like these help a lot.
@@rickoshea5835 If you live near small enough water, just buy the best $5K trailer sailer you can. Up to around 22ft, a 30 lb thrust 12V and at least 55ah battery is good enough if necessary. Try not to run past medium speed. You won't have much to work on and all the real sailing controls will be there. 2.5L Subaru or similar can tow that size. Personally, I don't recommend Catalina 22'.
If you can learn new skills and figure things out, boat ownership isn’t that bad.
@@rickoshea5835 I thought I left a post earlier that if your water is small enough buy a $2-6K trailer sailer and begin the journey. If you start too big the boat will sail you and you won't progress adequately.
(I must have posted because that's why I got notified of the new reply. YT has really deteriorated.)
If you have a money surplus it really isn't hard... If like the rest of us, you don't then accepting that the maintenance i just part of it and as the other commenter said, learn new stuff and fix it you'll be fine. However it is a commitment and time sink and remember the word BOAT means Bring Out Another Thousand!
It’s worth it just don’t be lazy and a bit smart about it
I'm just getting into research on sailboats, was a former motor vessel owner. I'm also a polymer chemist. Anything labeled as "marine" will cost 2x-5x more for the name. As another person mentioned the cutting boards are likely HDPE and its pretty cheap when sourced direct. Almost every chemical product you buy is just a relabeled product from a bigger manufacturer. Those 2 part epoxy resins are not designed to flow. What I am finding in my research is that if you think a little outside the "marine" box many things can be done for much more reasonable prices.
I really like this presenter's low-key, calm style. Even better, he provides links for further reading. Great job - new subscriber.
Check out Lady K sailing too
I used 1/2" thick Goodwill cutting board plastic with 3M 5200 to mount level sonar to stern exterior, charge controllers to lazerett interiors, and a bilge pump to lower lazerett. The section for bilge pump came loose but hoses hold it okay. The other 2 working great.
If you want to save wood on a boat, use Boiled Linseed Oil cut with just a little turpentine.
Tip #1 is only correct for OEM type internally regulated alternators. If you install an externally regulated high-output alternator with a smart regulator, it can be very effective at charging LFP. In my own boat, I have a 250A large frame alternator controlled by a Zeus regulator which is powered by my 23-hp diesel. It charges my 560Ah LFP battery from 0% SOC to 100% SOC in 3 hours while anchored at 1400 rpm and in less than 4-hours while underway.
Just a couple additions. You don’t have to live with seams in the deck, if you’re willing to spend the time, you can blend both the smooth parts and the non-skid. You can make your own mold off your non-skid but you can buy pre-made flexible molds to match all the most common manufacturer’s non-skid patterns. You basically just get the area prepped for gelcoat, paint it on, then lay the mold over it while it cures, then peel the mold back off. It leaves you with an invisible repair.
The PVC is a great alternative for many things and here in the states you can buy it in sheets as well. I recently bought a 2’x4’ 3/4” sheet from one of the box stores for a project I’ve been working on. One downside is that the edges are visibly porous and trap dirt as opposed to starboard, so that’s worth considering when deciding where it’s a suitable substitute and where the real McCoy may be a better choice. Acrylic is nice too for some places. It’s not any cheaper than starboard but can give a nicer appearance for some projects.
Another way to hack a soft deck problem is to evaluate accessibility from within the boat. If you can access the spot to be excavated from the underside, the repair can be made without damage to the top deck. A bit more messy taking gravity into account but you can use an epoxy thickening agent to minimize mess and vacuum bag the repaired surface to eliminate air.
When i bought my Pearson 26 back in 1972, I was advised to pour real sugared Coca Cola into the swashes of the rigging and then seal it with epoxy. 52- years later, the rigging is still in great shape. I cannot complain about good advice. I just passed the sailboat on to my son and we will reply this technique to the rigging. The other secret is to not over tighten the rigging. It should only be tight and balanced on the side taking the wind. I keep the rigging loose such that the downwind side is relaxed.
As a mast mounted on the deck, it is important not to crack the mount. Thus, I lower the applied stress and it has worked for 52 years.
Cetol is the best I have found
If you want that shiny look of a high grade varnish job use three coats of Cetol with total boat halcyon over that .
I use clear and it comes out great.
Brilliant video! More please! Cetol/ Woodskin is great stuff but it has a brown tinge so that over time re-coating will send the item towards brown. I use it on things like washboards or tillers I can easily re-make. I'm guessing the UV resistance is given by whatever makes it brown. If there were a truly clear version I wouldn't use anything else.
My best tip for maintaining a boat is get a 3D printer if you can draw in any 3D software that can output STL files. These days they're cheap and easy to use and there's heaps of info around. It really is a no-brainer. Cheap PLA for indoors, PETG for outside, TPU for anything flexible. To give you some idea my tabernacle is mounted to the cabin top on solid printed PETG shaped perfectly to the curve of the roof. The wedges under the mast are also solid PETG. This stuff is unbelievably tough. I've made over 100 objects in the 3 months since I bought one, the majority for the boat.
Regarding teak on boats a discovery: we use a water based product from Vermont Coatings it has UV protection and is available clear or with various tints. It goes on like water so you have to be careful with any drips. The best part is that it dries very rapidly and its possible to apply several coats one after the other. At some point a built up finish will need to be removed, I find that is comes off easily, well easier than varnish. It’s available at hareware and pain store at least here in the NE.
Thanks again. Always 5 star.
We used 4x8 sheets of 1/2 inch pvc to replace our old soft dodger into a rigid dodger. +-$100 per sheet. It is our 5th year and it hold up well and looks great. ✌🏼❤️🌈
Those cutting boards are great to fasten to the feet of deck chairs. They prevent wood from contacting the deck, saving the chair feet.
Here on the Chesapeake Bay, it seems as if Cetol is the only thing anyone puts on teak.
I would like it more if it had less pigment to allow more of the wood grain to show.
I have bypass switches on the regulator on the alternator works really well especially add idle for long periods and the charge controller s
After watching another channels tips, I’ve started leaving a dish washing tab in my galley and bathroom sink.
Looking for a solution for mould, I’ve heard leaving bleach in a cup when you’re off the boat works.
All ways interested in core repair, thank you for that information.
Was thinking about the use of vinegar for the pee diverter and I’ve use vinegar on the boat a lot but maybe another option would be using bulk buy lemon juice to spray after the use.
I had an O'Day 22. Its balsa-cored deck developed some not-too-large "soft spots." I did not want to break the deck's integrity by cutting out a top surface piece. I marked an outline of the areas, drilled holes (1/8" +-) just inside of the outer borders, and several holes inside the area. I purchased a tube of NON-EXPANDING insulting foam at my local hardware store. Next, I injected the foam into the holes. The moisture in the core will react with the foam and harden up. The foam will expand out the holes. After the foam sets up cut it level with the deck. Take your drill and clean out the holes (1/8"). Fill the holes with JB Weld (or a similar product) even with the deck surface. Dab the filled holes with matching paint. This procedure works with "smaller" areas. If you have to repair a large area, I would avoid cutting the top deck. I would prefer to work inside the boat, from the bottom up.
Cetol has stain in it, and like a stain, if you don't take the time to sand properly and thoroughly you will get a blotchy result. As you like to say, ask me how i know. In my experience you're better off just vanishing, if it ends up uneven you can just sand it back next time and try again but at least your didn't ruin your teak.
Always enjoy your vids.
Davis FSR for the brown scum line. Gel stays in place. Works fast.
PVC is also destroyed by ultraviolet light. It’ll turn dark brown and sag.
Thanks Tim.
Best wishes from the North.
I'd like to put a word in for semco- it is even easier (especially recoats) and holds up very well.
Great video! PVC is quite durable but for many reasons it's not ideal for the marine environment. The cutting boards you used were more likely made from HDPE (high density polyethylene) which combined with mechanical fasteners (it doesn't glue well) is a much better choice. HDPE can be purchased in sheet or partial sheet form (for bigger jobs) for a very good price from local commercial plastic suppliers. Most sources offer a variety of thickness' but generally the pallet includes black or white only which may limit its use in a project. I personally used HDPE to replace the wooden floor boards in my 10' Achilles inflatable dinghy 17 years ago, and it still like new. (Which is more than I can say about the Hypalon dinghy) As you have noted it is easy to machine, and the white color at least stands up very well to direct UV exposure, and most salt water environments. A little know fact is that StarBoard is actually a well marketed HDPE sheet with a texture finish and custom colors. Save your money!
The longest lasting coating I've seen for wood on a boat is to first coat the wood with epoxy and then use a marine varnish / urethane.
Yes, this is what the pro's do. 3 coats epoxy, 3 coats 2 part eurethane. Wax it twice a year, 10+ year finish.
If you like Teak Oil, you're going ato love Le Tonquinois!
Great Job, thank you.
Great video!
These are great and all good tips. Boric acid or borax also great for pee smell and the product DSV great and sorry, cetol is horrible, does not look as good and is a pain when it starts peeling. I am a wood scientist and natural grey will last the longest. Also the Penashield is great for stop more soft decks and diffuses where it cannot reach immediately.
Cheers,
Valkyrie III (Pearson 35).
What do you do when you have a smelly pipe system leading to the holding tank? I think it's also the urine stone which smells
Vinegar or replace.
Just say no to Cetol unless you have an Island Packet. I very much prefer Epifanes gloss varnish. Yeah, the initial application takes a little longer to build up the minimum 8-10 coats, but it is worth it. Once you get the initial build up done, a couple of coats a year will keep your teak/mahogany looking great. In a pinch you can cut corners and go with Pettit Captains varnish, but the initial build will require more coats.
Tim, I use Cetol on fir stair decks. What color or variant is good for boat teak.
Azek, not Aztec, is porous on all but its two finished faces, and will allow mold on cut edges. Do not use that kind of material for any exposed application, much softer than $tarboard too, unfortunately.
Yo! Another great video!
My number one rule of boating: don’t buy a boat with wood on it. But I put a wood cap on our sprint pole and have a wood tiller. Three seasons ago I out West epoxy on both then used Total Boat Halcyon, a water based marine varnish. Three years later (5 1/2 month seasons) they both look brand new. I should patent this!
@@romaniandracula I learned to use a sewing machine and made a slip cover for the tiller..... Now looking for fabric UV protection so the 2nd one lasts more than 3yrs......
You can't patent it. It's in the West Systems manual. 😅
Hey Tim, what is a good hack to keep my vinyl seats from frying and mildew while covered in the sun. I used 303 before covering, now the top of the seats that touched the cover are burnt looking and crisp.
Great as always. Cetol seems interesting. I recently tried TotalBoat Lust - also no sanding between coats, and you don't have to wait 24 hours for a second coat, just one. Looks fantastic for exterior but too glossy for my liking for interior. Price looks about the same, $50/qt
How would you put out a lithium battery fire on a boat?
I don't have a boat (yet), but from a solar DIY perspective Lithium batteries based specifically on LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) chemistry are pretty much impossible to catch fire themselves. The risk is more an old-school electrical fire in the wiring, which any battery of sufficient size can feed. Proper choice of wire size and insulation, wire dress and support, and proper fusing of everything, is essential for overall safety. Pay special attention to connections, both the screw terminals and crimps, as they can appear secure but may have high resistance which causes heat. I always view my electrical systems with an IR camera when under load (they're remarkable at finding hot spots), and be sure you have electrical-rated fire extinguishers at hand.
@@tubeuser2350 Nice reply. I have an IR Temp Gun and I've never thought to scan my boat electric on a sunny day with everything running. All my elec is DIY so well worth a check.
@@oldmansailor Interesting. What chemistry batteries did they (and Boeing) use? It matters. The news-making battery fires I've researched have all been either improper charging or failure of a Lithium Polymer battery, or a manufacturing defect in the cells of Lithium ion (NMC, LCO, etc) packs in the case of the Chevy Bolt EVs. A search of yacht fire articles have pointed to the owner's e-bike, scooter, or other battery-powered "toy" as the culprits, and yeah, those Li-Po batteries are definitely bad news. If a Lithium Iron Phosphate cell caught fire, I'd really be interested in understanding how that happened. Any specific references?
Jump overboard.
Thank you.
Enjoyed the video, especially the teak wood suggestions… it is so easy to get overwhelmed. What’s your go to for cleaning stainless?
if your deck core is rotten cut it out from below deck then you don't get unsightly marks on your deck.
My grandpa told me all my life if I didn’t grow up by the time I turned 40, I don’t have to.
He was right.
Cetol ages very poorly in sunlight. turns a nasty shade of orange
Wouldn't the wood epoxy is being put on matter? Open cell wood vs closed cell woods.
?
most of products which says marine is useless to buy. they are 5-10 times overprised compared to materials which are ment for house construction. same for batteries, electronics etc.
We use vinegar in our standard flush head it makes huge improvement on keeping urine under control.
Vinegar stinks almost as bad as urine. Have you not tried citric acid? That stuff is unbelievable.
My opinion is that rotten wood is like cancer. It has to come out all the way back to good solid, fresh dry material
100%. Plus if it is core in a deck, replace it with closed cell foam like Divinycell. No more rot.
@@todddunn945 You have to be careful with the clothes cell phone. Some of it is not quite so closed cell as they claim to be
@@todddunn945 If I was to do it again I'd use nidacore
@@SalingSamantas I am not sure I get the clothes and cell phone reference. Of course I don't carry my phone on the boat (the cord isn't long enough).
It seems yt stole my original comment. 😢⚓
I’m an aircraft mechanic and my house is ocean front. I use a product called ACF-50 for corrosion protection on door and window hardware and in my electronics. I wonder if people are using this on their boats. It works much better than WD40 or any of the Kano products.
Cutting boards are made of nylon, like many ropes. PVC crumbles under up exposure. Plastic means little.
No they’re not. Plastic cutting boards are made from High Density PolyEthylene. So is Starboard, but it is a higher quality and has more UV inhibitors.
If it moves and shouldn’t, use duct tape. If it doesn’t move, but should, use WD-40.
Careful on duct tape brand, alot of the adhesive goes gooey with time. Like cheap electrical tape, definitely never use tape in sunlight
Isn't this guy the same guy who just copied other channels? Why did PS make this guy their YT channel?
Item 1. Generators and batteries. I think what is wrong with your piece is how you come to believe what you repeat. Key word gullible. I would like to see you learn proper storage, charging, and care, but it starts with basic battery care and never leaves. No, alternators are rarely the weak link, and not all batteries respond the same to the same charge. My 10DS alternator can charge all kinds of 12 ish volt batteries and it's nothing special. The majority of our off grid battery videos are bad and boating just takes it's own flavor of getting things wrong. Without a little tutoring, I can say it's how you learned your electric facts.
@@stanleybest8833 Some alternator design is made for keeping a starting battery with enough charge to start, full.
My 8hp 2-stroke charge loop doesn't have a voltage regulator. I've seen 15V on the battery and my sensitive electronics get little blips. I bought a DC/DC charger with 13.8V output. Yet to install. If the auto tiller stops drifting while outboard is on I'll call it a success. Don't care about optimizing charging amps.
@@artsmith103 Right, but if you can't charge lithiums, try a heavy series resistor. All that smoke and mirrors nonsense goes overboard.
@@stanleybest8833 I'm no Lithium authority so I don't give Lithium advice. My boat is a little light so I'm thrilled to have 2 lead deep cell close to center, near the mast, below the waterline. I rarely discharge below 15%, solar fills them everyday. Hope they last forever :-)
@@artsmith103 Me neither. Make sure you use an isolation switch if they are in parallel or charge and discharge them separately.