@drowsy5879 he stressed the cost of the board in his mind every time something went wrong and put the effort in to make it right. And it's my assumption that most people would respond the same way. But that being said each customer deserves the same care with their belongings. So he should treat a much cheaper board with just as much care. ( under my assumption that if the board was cheap someone would possibly let small imperfections slide ) and this experience should have taught him or anyone watching the importance of quality . It's not a perfect analogy but it's my hope that the moral learned is to respect and treat with care someone's property they are trusting you with regardless of what it is or how much it cost. And my saying nice job at the end was due to the top tier quality he performed in this video, but had nothing to do with the point I was making.
@@jackucthatjack5896 seriously?? I feel like it goes without saying, but this board is priceless of course he’s going to spend more time and effort on it. Not only because hes being payed more, but its also perfect for his resume AND THERES ONLY LIKE 8 OTHER BOARDS LIKE IT. It would be like me expecting you to drive my honda civic like my one of a kind Bugatti Chiron.. Like why would I expect you to drive around a speed bump while driving a civic? It would be a waste of time and slower so Id probably never have you drive any of my cars again.
@@jackucthatjack5896 If you are gonna take away something from the video you should recognize the customer expected the normal job that he does on every board, but obviously since this board was worth alot he went above and beyond. Instead of expecting people to go above and beyond for you. Expect what you paid for and be surprised if someone does extra for you..
Respect for not throwing in the towel. I'm sure the end product didn't meet your standards but the fact that you stuck in their says a lot about your devotion. Good stuff!!! 🤙🏽
I found that coating the whole board before paint works well. You want the entire surface to have the same texture so the paint behaves the same way over the whole surface. I use micro balloons (Q cell I think you guys call it) rather than spackle though. Having some background in auto paint causes me to have a natural aversion to putting anything chalky under paint or resin. Also the micro balloon resin mixture keeps the materials the same and therefore compatible. About half a cup gets me through one whole side of a 6' to 6'6" board. It acts as a sealer too.
As a house painter, I thought the use of spackle seemed sketchy too. Especially attempting to coat it without primer. I've never repaired a surfboard though so what would I know. The important thing is perseverance and making the final product look great regardless of money lost or time spent. I have been there and done that on painting projects!
35+ years of shaping, glassing and repair work. For fin removal use an oscillating multi-tool with a fine toothed, flush cut blade.......carbide preferably for longevity. A must have tool. When skinning a board, instead of angle grinder use sander at the apex of rails and sand until almost through cloth. Avoid hitting the foam. Finish the cut with a razor blade only cutting the cloth being careful not to get into the foam. Another method to peel a board is to blow it up like a basketball before grinding the rails. Compressed air will peel the glass pretty cleanly especially on the deck side. The less foam damage the better. Regarding your delamination issues. Resin and Q-cel for filler, not spackle. The less paint build up the better and let it dry completely between every coat. Always thin coats letting dry in between. If you apply the next coat too soon you've effectively trapped moisture underneath which will haunt you later. After final coat, let it dry twice as long as you think. A week in a very dry space wouldn't hurt. Resin hates moisture and is repelled by it. On a large area painted with red or blue in particular you have to pre-coat the board with lam resin before glassing. Squeegee it on thinly and evenly and make sure there are no drips. Some paints and some colors want to repel resin or react with the resin and crystalize. Precoating will reveal if you're going to have a crystallization issue before it breaks your heart when there is glass in play. If you get crystallization give a second thin coat of lam resin in that area before glassing. If you pre-coat both sides, use wax paper on the glassing racks to avoid lifting your paint from the foam when you flip. (I've learned that one the hard way) On your rails use bigger laps (an extra inch and a half of cloth all the way around) when going over a painted blank as the cloth doesn't seem to grip a painted blank like it does bare foam and keep a close eye on your laps until the resin kicks. Glossing glass on fin: No need to mask and do one side at a time. Sand to 80 grit and no finer. We want the resin to grip the fin and resist sagging. Fins side down in the racks and do both sides at once. Kick it hot and don't overload the resin on or it will sag. Lastly, know when to turn work away or refer a project to someone else if it is out of your comfort zone or something you've never done before. Cheers
Some projects are just snake bit. One catastrophe after another. But how you bounce back from them is what counts. The primer costs and time fixing the subsequent delams may have blown your profit margin, but your honesty and transparency with this project should inspire tons of confidence with every prospective client. A terrific project to watch (if not to actually do). Thanks! Oh, and I'll can confirm the quality of work and service Boadlams provides. They transferred some custom art a friend of mine did for an Umalon board that came out amazing!
Painted an interior that was exactly that, thankfully the clients were amazing people and my general contractor wasn't a total jerk, but gave me the big brother treatment.
Curious why you chose sparkling instead of, industry standard, Q-cel for the foam restoration. The sparkling might explain some of the laminating issues you had. Laminating with pigmented resin as opposed to painting the foam would help with fiberglass adhesion to the blank as well.
Agreed that was a very baffling choice and clearly the reason for all these problems. That filler was obviously reacting with either the paint or the resin. He should have done a resin skim coat to seal the foam. Another part that baffled me was that he did not do a one-to-one paper trace of all the graphics to ensure that the positioning of the replacements would be 100% spot on to the original. Less of a restoration and more of a recreation at this point....
@@DFMurray It seems like ding repair is his hobby & he’s still learning. A opportunity to do a ‘special’ restoration came to him & he did the best he could. Getting advice from his supply dealer would get him the right materials & lessen the chance of mistakes. The mistakes happen even when you do use the right materials. That’s just ding repair.
@@DFMurraythe yellow color difference on the part of the graphic that de-laminated and replaced was very noticeable and I feel bad it appears he displayed it that part exposed too.
As someone who's experience with fiber glass ends with a single boat deck. I think he did a pretty good job and Perfection is the enemy of good enough and that looks like a tough job.Since youre working with a really old weather baked foam core on a board thats designed to look at and theyre saying its worth a million dollars while also sun baking it for 60 years. As some one who also knit picks and beats himself up about my own work The eye and judgement are more harsh and keen.
As a veteran contractor/carpenter, I know exactly how that feels. When everything is going wrong and you feel like giving up. Kudos to pulling through and documenting the process. I'm not sure if it was in this video or another one, but you asked for advice on better concealment for a better overall finish. I think self etching primer would work well. It's used in construction and auto repair.
Value is subjective. The show owner might value the longevity of the board more, and being able to view the board in his home in perfect conditions. Money value comes into play when you want to sell something, this guy doesn't wanna sell those boards, he wants to admire them.
Yeah they were definitely trashed. I just dont really get how its still considered original if he completely got rid of the original skin. I can see it being original foam core but the design is completely redone. I always thought people were super serious about that stuff. I know they are with cars and other things that get restored. Like if you bought a nascar and redid the livery with new vinyl. Thats not really the original livery anymore. If you get what im saying. lol@@DKShoneys-dc2dp
Ohh snapp, that paradox just blew my mind lol Cause In the case of something smaller like a surf board, I would say as soon as you change anything even as small the leash its no longer original. But when you get to something larger like a ship that becomes alot harder because you have to do repairs, and other stuff that will change the boat. Which wouldnt change it from being the original boat. That is actually a really good question/ paradox lol@@DKShoneys-dc2dp
The design of the board didn't change he literally put everything that was on the board back on logo wise and he didn't change anything on the profile of the board so nothing changed design wise its the same board just a new skin.@@leebrock8386
In experiences of painting walls with vinyl/latex paints I noticed it has a tendency to delaminate, so if you later press on it, those areas crack and fall of the wall. The solution to remedy it is to dilute the paint with water and apply some thin coats before working upto pure paint. I know the paint and resin coatings on a board are very different things but perhaps there is some transferrable logic here?
Happy for you that you got a result and I’m praying for you that they don’t delam in the future. With that amount of spackle and paint beneath the glass, that bond is going to be pretty dubious! Feel your pain and stress, the pressure on them would’ve been real real
@@RedRussel ooof, hard to do on this one. Certainly would have tackled it a little different but a large part of jobs like this are making it up as you go depending on what cancerous things you find. Almost impossible to speak on without feeling and seeing the board first hand. Can’t imagine the hours of footage and details that he couldn’t add to this video that would have made all the difference when it came to what directions he chose to take.
Hey man, I just wanna say that watching your videos has taught me so much about board repair and gave me the confidence to step into doing larger repairs. And your ability to capture all this on video is really commendable. With all the prep and setup required for these repairs, filming them simultaneously is no small feat!
The painting part was painful. I'm a professional painter and I've used that spackle occasionally, and it really is hard to get a good finish with sandpaper, because it's a bit rubbery when dry. It finishes best with a damp cloth or sponge. Use a mini roller when applying primer to porous surfaces like that, or it will not adhere properly, just form a skin. There are heavy-bodied primers that can help with final sanding as well.
That is rough man, some jobs are just that way. But u pushed thru adversity and got er done. Plus u learned some stuff too! If i may offer: i believe your delaminations were the result of poor prep of old foam and too much spackling in place of prep. Id go over the whole board with your DA with a soft pad and 600 grit then lightly block the flats and hand sand the rails. Now youve got fresh foam that is open. Its also much flatter so u can focus your spackling on the deeper gouges only! Leave the minor imperfections and DONT skim the whole board with it. U gotta think now spackling was never meant to bond with foam or fiberglass, also structurally its very weak. Theres also alot of shrinkage so its important to have 100% cure before proceeding or u will have voids and delam. So when done with spackling i wouldve used an automotive filler primer that u apply with your spray gun. This u want to apply many coats and it will fill all the minor holes dips dents etc. Think of it as sprayable sandable bondo. Now u block sand using guide coat till youve got it all flat and straight. And now ready to proceed. Anyway dont be offended we are all learning from each other! Great video! Cheers!
The boards look beautiful! Sorry you had so much trouble! Good to know when to set everything down and walk away for a while. I wonder if it was the spackle causing the delams. Over the years I've watched guys use it but it always worried me as it doesn't create a great mechanical bond to the foam. You do great work! Best of luck with future endeavors!
You did, you actually prevailed & did it. Once you have context & see the before pics of the board, this was a work of art what you did. Amazing job man congrats
Just wondering how many layers of glass did it take to get that board right? What a nightmare. Years ago I was restoring an old Porsche , got everything done, primed ready for paint and waiting for the right day , no wind , cool out and cloudy. Race home, mask off the car and shoot it out . Looks great! Wait a few hours before pulling the masking but the paint isn’t dry ! Wtf. Then I noticed I forgot to put the hardener in the paint ! Ya one of those moments ! Two gallons of lacquer thinner and dozens of rags to strip the car and start over. Last time I painted a car!
this video is a must watch for any contractor, artist, artisan, maker, doer, whatever you wanna call it. you're not always gonna do everything perfect but you can always have integrity and give 100%
Overall they look awesome, but, the hidden stringer makes me hitch. I would do whatever to have that stringer visible, specially in an older board like this. Not having a stringer just makes them look wrong. Also, as many have already mentioned: Q-cell and resin the whole thing = smoother base to work on and less issues with delams for sure.
Tonight I watched some of your repairs and I can say that you need to look into removing fiberglass using a heat gun. When you are done fixing the blank put a coat of white paint on the board. If the repairs still show add a 2nd or 3rd coat of paint. Then use red pigment when glassing. Put the logos on top of the first layer of fiberglass and then add a second layer of fiberglass. Look up Nathan J. Surfboards for other hints or help. I have been making and repairing boards since 1967. Good Luck, Nathan
This seems like a hard fought lesson in working the problem and not letting the problem work you (too much). Great result, brother! In my experience, those victories that come from having to navigate a lot of obstacles are far more rewarding and memorable than the smooth sailing projects.
I quit my 9-5 to go into my passion for painting. I have a great mentor, but some skill gaps are present and i've ate crow a few times. Internally I have wanted to walk off the job and more often than not, worked 12hr days wondering why I couldn't be better. I'll never give this up and it's reassuring to see others go through similar experiences in other fields of work. Keep up the good work, I would be happy with that final product considering it's a restoration of a really weathered board.
Brother It was the Spackle in the library with the lead pipe. As a painter I know that this product is ONLY for the thinnest cosmetic fixes. It would not bond to foam especially thicker at the rails. It might have worked for hanging the surfboard on the wall If you had doubled down on the proper sealer that would have Soaked in and bonded but for the ocean, it was over at the Spackle😅
Absolutely right. He just destroyed a piece of history. Probably didn’t need Local Motions permission either as it was already on the board. It was still an interesting video.
So frickin cool @ the end with your hand-off of those two original Baywatch surfboards to their owner, in like-new condition>>he obviously picked the right man for the job...beautiful craftsmanship...RIP Brock (Braddah will always be one of my favorite Hawaiian Big Wave 🌊 watermen)
I think the problem of the delamination must come from the spray paint on the blanck, I don't have a huge amount of experience, but I friend of mine actually had this problem shaping one of his first boards.
I was going to say the same thing. It's like getting fish eyes between coats of auto painting. You've got to be sure to clean the paint significantly before applying the laminate. No dust at all or fingerprints or anyting else.
@@simonschneider5913 Totally. I would probably do some things different but I like his approach. To be honest it would be hard not quiting this project if it wasn't the boards they are.
Paint cure time could be part of the issue. As a professional painter I know some paints take weeks to fully cure. Manufacturer tries to hide that info for more sales :p read that fine print.
I wasn’t having a day , but when you lost temper, I suddenly was not alone and I was sharing in your emotions that I know all too well. Thanks for the video. I’m going back out to the shaping shack now .
I think I would have left original fiberglass on, thinned down as much as possible, flattened with small bits of resin, then sprayed, applied decal, and finished. Would have been more original, and would have solved a lot of the delaminating problems. Also maybe look into west systems they are super good marine products. I used them when restoring boats
@@Orion_5764 maybe not with surfboards, but I’am highly trained in restoration of marine fiberglass, and epoxy work. This would be like me taking the foam out of a boat, building another boat around it, and then saying it’s the same boat. If I was the customer I’d be extremely pissed if the thing I sent to be restored only came back with one original piece, and a piece you couldn’t see in the first place. So I’ll stick to my statement, and double down by saying this was a terrible job, I could see waves and ripples in the fiberglass, an dull spots that weren’t properly polished.
Glad you didn't quit and came through. Loved the kitchen nightmares cringe sounds. Most of these delam possibilities have been mentioned, but I'll put em all in one place: bad yellowing foam with integrity/ density compromised, spackle should be fine as long as it was roughed up enough for mechanical adhesion, but the less the better; crystallisation from paint, especially thick, uneven coats that havent fully dried through; and then finally heat from excessive sanding. The trial and error is what is going to get you on the level of guys like Randy Rarick some day. Keep at it!
Gotta say first much respect to your craftsmanship.. Saying yes to the project would have paralyzed me w/ anxiety no doubt you got big balls, how do you surf w such big balls? Definitely run a moisture meter or before steps since spackle and paint were added.. on a million dollar board. I have to fin repairs i prepped and put aside almost a year ago.. maybe i do them now. much respect to you brother.. Why didnt they just have you make new boards so those could be in a museum if so imporrtant?
I'm just curious, why didn't you do a coat of primer in the first place? In pretty much every house or automotive painting I've done, it's always common place to apply primer first. Is it just different for surfboards, or was it just an oversight?
Been there! Something similar happened to me nearly 20 years ago when i started learning violin restoration. And iv seen multiple luthiers get into trouble fast with extremely valuable guitars/violins.
Appreciate your dedication in working through the problems. I have to do that everyday in my line of work. one thing I noticed is the color of the repair on the "H" under the fin. you can see the color difference in the yellow. what was the reasoning for not relaying the entire logo?
In that particular case, I'd leave the original board alone and made brand new copies ! I've built and repaired hundreds of boards so I understand very well your struggle... Old worn out foam, paint, filler ain't a good cocktail... But you got a pretty good result , BRAVO ! The fiberglasse logos look nice and practical. I used to print mine on japan paper with silk screens, not an easy job at all ! (back in the 80 in the Caribean...)
I know nothing about surfboards but I have the utmost respect and admiration for your determination and grit! You're truly an inspiration! Have a nice day internet stranger.
Bro are you dumb did you watch the same video I did. He literally put the fins in the wrong spot and had to take them off. This was a hack job with good editing. I don't need to be a surf board expert to know to triple check that. 😂
Hey good job pushing through, I’m no expert but it seems like expanding foam is definitely the standard and a quick google might have fixed some of the issues
If you use a heat gun you will wrinkle the paint. If you don’t give it enough time to dry it will wrinkle the paint. If there is foam underneath the paint, which gets heated by the heat gun, then painted over, it will wrinkle the paint.
it delaminated because u used to much primer and paint very common ( also the type of paint u use will also determine the out come )when the polyester or epoxy resin cant reach the foam and bond to cells of the foam ,, heating it up with you sanding pad removing the fin didn't help u out either ,, ,, why it went straight to the old foam after the delam,, ive learned this the hardway myself doing thousands of board builds and restorations in California and Hawaii in the last 45 yrs ,, Qcell was your answer from the beginning
Just about finished making my first skim board and it's been a rollercoaster ride. I had to learn how to handle such an unforgiving material. My boards got a dent, some scratches in it from my fingernail and a few other character traits. But it's been fun overall, and I didn't beat myself up too much, knowing that it was all good for learning. You do good work and this came out 💯!
At what time wound you just make a new board, identical? The visible part of thr board is what it has value, you don't se the foam in the movie. Probably better to keep the original as it was an have a duplicate.
That's what I thought? Basically a brand new board was made with old foam. I guess that is what the customer wanted though. I think it would have been cool to make a replica and hang it side by side the original.
On my refurbished jobs I always kept the history of the dings and damage. I think it keeps the history of the journey. If customers want the original then you need to charge for the headaches that come to sprout. Cause you know they do! It’s hard work!! Keep it up though. Like the work bro
With that much spray, I would not be surprised if the entire thing delams if the boards ever get warm, at least you know that foam is done degassing. Did you use fin rope for glassing the fins? Also, why not either tint the resin or spray the lam coat as opposed to spraying the foam.
Nice job. I noticed the end of the Baywatch logo that you had to patch up was a different shade of yellow than the rest of the logo. Was that intentional? The 2nd board wasn’t like that.
No matter how long you've been doing something, you're always gonna make mistakes. Sometimes several. A lot of the time, it has nothing to do with how skilled you are. Sometimes it just happens. You did right by identifying the issue, freaking out at a reasonable rate, fixing it, and moving on to the next step.
Nice work I think I can all say we've all been there doing one thing or another, great to see that we are all human and we all want to do the best we can, don't give up, ever.
Pretty sure that delam happened because you took the shortcut of wetting 2 plys of fiberglass at once. it probably didnt properly wet through the logo ply onto the board. Just pointing out that is the most likely culprit, lack of coverage under the 1st layer of fiberglass(logo), it doesnt seem you did anything else to cause bad adhesion. The logo was really big, and it would be easy to not get enough resin under such a large ply of fiberglass when wetting 2 plies at once. I have never seen 2 plies wet at a time like that professionally, granted lives depend on me in my line of work, but you seem experienced enough that you have done this shortcut multiple times with no issues that you know of. I work in aerospace and we always pre-wet repair plies or lay down a light base coat of resin before adding plies to ensure proper adhesion, it is very easy to get resin starvation that you can't see, voids(starvation/delam) are the most common issues found in non-destructive testing, even though the part looks perfectly fine. Just sharing my composite experience, it would be unfortunate if you get a bad rap for delams in the future over a shortcut that really doesn't save you much time compared to the cost to your wallet/reputation later. The boards turned out great and you have real talent and passion for what you do, great video.
I'm gonna say the delamination was probably caused by layering primer over the smooth paint, or the paint over the foam with no primer to grip, but what do i know
Life lesson to be learned from all of this. " treat every customer's board like its a $1,000,000 board"
Nice job.
How is that your take away??
@drowsy5879 he stressed the cost of the board in his mind every time something went wrong and put the effort in to make it right. And it's my assumption that most people would respond the same way. But that being said each customer deserves the same care with their belongings. So he should treat a much cheaper board with just as much care. ( under my assumption that if the board was cheap someone would possibly let small imperfections slide ) and this experience should have taught him or anyone watching the importance of quality . It's not a perfect analogy but it's my hope that the moral learned is to respect and treat with care someone's property they are trusting you with regardless of what it is or how much it cost. And my saying nice job at the end was due to the top tier quality he performed in this video, but had nothing to do with the point I was making.
@@jackucthatjack5896 seriously?? I feel like it goes without saying, but this board is priceless of course he’s going to spend more time and effort on it. Not only because hes being payed more, but its also perfect for his resume AND THERES ONLY LIKE 8 OTHER BOARDS LIKE IT. It would be like me expecting you to drive my honda civic like my one of a kind Bugatti Chiron.. Like why would I expect you to drive around a speed bump while driving a civic? It would be a waste of time and slower so Id probably never have you drive any of my cars again.
@@jackucthatjack5896 If you are gonna take away something from the video you should recognize the customer expected the normal job that he does on every board, but obviously since this board was worth alot he went above and beyond. Instead of expecting people to go above and beyond for you. Expect what you paid for and be surprised if someone does extra for you..
@drowsy5879 that's 100% how I would treat any car that does not belong to me no matter if it's a busted up civic or a brand new Lamborghini.
Respect for not throwing in the towel. I'm sure the end product didn't meet your standards but the fact that you stuck in their says a lot about your devotion. Good stuff!!! 🤙🏽
I found that coating the whole board before paint works well. You want the entire surface to have the same texture so the paint behaves the same way over the whole surface. I use micro balloons (Q cell I think you guys call it) rather than spackle though. Having some background in auto paint causes me to have a natural aversion to putting anything chalky under paint or resin. Also the micro balloon resin mixture keeps the materials the same and therefore compatible. About half a cup gets me through one whole side of a 6' to 6'6" board. It acts as a sealer too.
This. 🤙
You know there's spackle for surf boards tho right? EPS surfboard blank sealer to be exact is what he used @@jonesy2009
As a house painter, I thought the use of spackle seemed sketchy too. Especially attempting to coat it without primer. I've never repaired a surfboard though so what would I know. The important thing is perseverance and making the final product look great regardless of money lost or time spent. I have been there and done that on painting projects!
there's lotsa info on this topic on swaylocks. Stick to Q-cell n resin, never spackling is the short answer
Cool story bro.
35+ years of shaping, glassing and repair work. For fin removal use an oscillating multi-tool with a fine toothed, flush cut blade.......carbide preferably for longevity. A must have tool. When skinning a board, instead of angle grinder use sander at the apex of rails and sand until almost through cloth. Avoid hitting the foam. Finish the cut with a razor blade only cutting the cloth being careful not to get into the foam. Another method to peel a board is to blow it up like a basketball before grinding the rails. Compressed air will peel the glass pretty cleanly especially on the deck side. The less foam damage the better.
Regarding your delamination issues. Resin and Q-cel for filler, not spackle. The less paint build up the better and let it dry completely between every coat. Always thin coats letting dry in between. If you apply the next coat too soon you've effectively trapped moisture underneath which will haunt you later. After final coat, let it dry twice as long as you think. A week in a very dry space wouldn't hurt. Resin hates moisture and is repelled by it. On a large area painted with red or blue in particular you have to pre-coat the board with lam resin before glassing. Squeegee it on thinly and evenly and make sure there are no drips. Some paints and some colors want to repel resin or react with the resin and crystalize. Precoating will reveal if you're going to have a crystallization issue before it breaks your heart when there is glass in play. If you get crystallization give a second thin coat of lam resin in that area before glassing. If you pre-coat both sides, use wax paper on the glassing racks to avoid lifting your paint from the foam when you flip. (I've learned that one the hard way) On your rails use bigger laps (an extra inch and a half of cloth all the way around) when going over a painted blank as the cloth doesn't seem to grip a painted blank like it does bare foam and keep a close eye on your laps until the resin kicks.
Glossing glass on fin: No need to mask and do one side at a time. Sand to 80 grit and no finer. We want the resin to grip the fin and resist sagging. Fins side down in the racks and do both sides at once. Kick it hot and don't overload the resin on or it will sag.
Lastly, know when to turn work away or refer a project to someone else if it is out of your comfort zone or something you've never done before. Cheers
Thank you!!
The masters hides in the comment section
@@s0kulite couldn't agree more. Your comment just made me re-visit mako's original advice. Hugely helpful tips.
Great story of overcoming big challenges and delivering in the end.
Some projects are just snake bit. One catastrophe after another. But how you bounce back from them is what counts. The primer costs and time fixing the subsequent delams may have blown your profit margin, but your honesty and transparency with this project should inspire tons of confidence with every prospective client. A terrific project to watch (if not to actually do). Thanks! Oh, and I'll can confirm the quality of work and service Boadlams provides. They transferred some custom art a friend of mine did for an Umalon board that came out amazing!
I would hope that guy paid an arm and a leg for repairs when the boards worth 1,000,000 I ain’t charging blue collar prices
Painted an interior that was exactly that, thankfully the clients were amazing people and my general contractor wasn't a total jerk, but gave me the big brother treatment.
Curious why you chose sparkling instead of, industry standard, Q-cel for the foam restoration. The sparkling might explain some of the laminating issues you had. Laminating with pigmented resin as opposed to painting the foam would help with fiberglass adhesion to the blank as well.
*chose spackling
Agreed that was a very baffling choice and clearly the reason for all these problems. That filler was obviously reacting with either the paint or the resin. He should have done a resin skim coat to seal the foam. Another part that baffled me was that he did not do a one-to-one paper trace of all the graphics to ensure that the positioning of the replacements would be 100% spot on to the original. Less of a restoration and more of a recreation at this point....
@@DFMurray It seems like ding repair is his hobby & he’s still learning. A opportunity to do a ‘special’ restoration came to him & he did the best he could. Getting advice from his supply dealer would get him the right materials & lessen the chance of mistakes. The mistakes happen even when you do use the right materials. That’s just ding repair.
@@DFMurraythe yellow color difference on the part of the graphic that de-laminated and replaced was very noticeable and I feel bad it appears he displayed it that part exposed too.
As someone who's experience with fiber glass ends with a single boat deck. I think he did a pretty good job and Perfection is the enemy of good enough and that looks like a tough job.Since youre working with a really old weather baked foam core on a board thats designed to look at and theyre saying its worth a million dollars while also sun baking it for 60 years. As some one who also knit picks and beats himself up about my own work The eye and judgement are more harsh and keen.
As a veteran contractor/carpenter, I know exactly how that feels. When everything is going wrong and you feel like giving up. Kudos to pulling through and documenting the process.
I'm not sure if it was in this video or another one, but you asked for advice on better concealment for a better overall finish. I think self etching primer would work well. It's used in construction and auto repair.
It's a pleasant surprise to see someone show their failures and challenges as well as their successes. The board came out sweet, nice work.
I’m curious as to why the boards weren’t left as they were I’d have thought the valve would be in its original shape and condition?
Value is subjective. The show owner might value the longevity of the board more, and being able to view the board in his home in perfect conditions. Money value comes into play when you want to sell something, this guy doesn't wanna sell those boards, he wants to admire them.
Are the boards still worth the same if they were to sell as before?
I know sometimes restoring stuff can actually take away from the value.
As a personal property appraiser; at the end of the day, value is all about a willing buyer and willing seller.
Yeah they were definitely trashed. I just dont really get how its still considered original if he completely got rid of the original skin. I can see it being original foam core but the design is completely redone. I always thought people were super serious about that stuff. I know they are with cars and other things that get restored. Like if you bought a nascar and redid the livery with new vinyl. Thats not really the original livery anymore. If you get what im saying. lol@@DKShoneys-dc2dp
He definitely killed it on the board, the whole original thing just confused me.
Ohh snapp, that paradox just blew my mind lol Cause In the case of something smaller like a surf board, I would say as soon as you change anything even as small the leash its no longer original. But when you get to something larger like a ship that becomes alot harder because you have to do repairs, and other stuff that will change the boat. Which wouldnt change it from being the original boat. That is actually a really good question/ paradox lol@@DKShoneys-dc2dp
The design of the board didn't change he literally put everything that was on the board back on logo wise and he didn't change anything on the profile of the board so nothing changed design wise its the same board just a new skin.@@leebrock8386
In experiences of painting walls with vinyl/latex paints I noticed it has a tendency to delaminate, so if you later press on it, those areas crack and fall of the wall.
The solution to remedy it is to dilute the paint with water and apply some thin coats before working upto pure paint.
I know the paint and resin coatings on a board are very different things but perhaps there is some transferrable logic here?
Wawhhhhhh, that's like saving the air from an air balloon, making a new one and claming you've restored it!
Happy for you that you got a result and I’m praying for you that they don’t delam in the future. With that amount of spackle and paint beneath the glass, that bond is going to be pretty dubious! Feel your pain and stress, the pressure on them would’ve been real real
Would love to see a reaction video on this and how would you do each step differently!
@@RedRussel ooof, hard to do on this one. Certainly would have tackled it a little different but a large part of jobs like this are making it up as you go depending on what cancerous things you find. Almost impossible to speak on without feeling and seeing the board first hand. Can’t imagine the hours of footage and details that he couldn’t add to this video that would have made all the difference when it came to what directions he chose to take.
Ill be honest. Ive been in automotive refinishing my entire life, and a lot of youre methods had me scratching my head.
Yeah it’s very amateur hour.
Hey man, I just wanna say that watching your videos has taught me so much about board repair and gave me the confidence to step into doing larger repairs. And your ability to capture all this on video is really commendable. With all the prep and setup required for these repairs, filming them simultaneously is no small feat!
The painting part was painful. I'm a professional painter and I've used that spackle occasionally, and it really is hard to get a good finish with sandpaper, because it's a bit rubbery when dry. It finishes best with a damp cloth or sponge.
Use a mini roller when applying primer to porous surfaces like that, or it will not adhere properly, just form a skin.
There are heavy-bodied primers that can help with final sanding as well.
As someone who has made some very sketchy board repairs at home over the years the challenges in this video give me some solace.
I've never surfed in my life. No idea how I got to this video but watched the entire thing, thoroughly entertaining!
That is rough man, some jobs are just that way. But u pushed thru adversity and got er done. Plus u learned some stuff too!
If i may offer: i believe your delaminations were the result of poor prep of old foam and too much spackling in place of prep. Id go over the whole board with your DA with a soft pad and 600 grit then lightly block the flats and hand sand the rails. Now youve got fresh foam that is open. Its also much flatter so u can focus your spackling on the deeper gouges only! Leave the minor imperfections and DONT skim the whole board with it. U gotta think now spackling was never meant to bond with foam or fiberglass, also structurally its very weak. Theres also alot of shrinkage so its important to have 100% cure before proceeding or u will have voids and delam. So when done with spackling i wouldve used an automotive filler primer that u apply with your spray gun. This u want to apply many coats and it will fill all the minor holes dips dents etc. Think of it as sprayable sandable bondo. Now u block sand using guide coat till youve got it all flat and straight. And now ready to proceed.
Anyway dont be offended we are all learning from each other! Great video! Cheers!
Great tips thanks amigo
Throwing tools around the shop never gets old they are easy to take our frustration out on easily great job on tha board
The boards look beautiful! Sorry you had so much trouble! Good to know when to set everything down and walk away for a while. I wonder if it was the spackle causing the delams. Over the years I've watched guys use it but it always worried me as it doesn't create a great mechanical bond to the foam. You do great work! Best of luck with future endeavors!
You did, you actually prevailed & did it. Once you have context & see the before pics of the board, this was a work of art what you did. Amazing job man congrats
I could see the stress and it back feelings of ptsd from jobs I wish I never thought of again
Just curious why couldn’t you have the center piece of wood still showing like the original? That’s the only thing that stands out to me.
Just wondering how many layers of glass did it take to get that board right? What a nightmare. Years ago I was restoring an old Porsche , got everything done, primed ready for paint and waiting for the right day , no wind , cool out and cloudy. Race home, mask off the car and shoot it out . Looks great! Wait a few hours before pulling the masking but the paint isn’t dry ! Wtf. Then I noticed I forgot to put the hardener in the paint ! Ya one of those moments ! Two gallons of lacquer thinner and dozens of rags to strip the car and start over. Last time I painted a car!
Looks like a million bucks! Great video, I wanted more slamming of tools..
good for you for not giving up , great job !!
My heart dropped for you at every turn mate. Well done and bloody good effort for not giving up.
this video is a must watch for any contractor, artist, artisan, maker, doer, whatever you wanna call it. you're not always gonna do everything perfect but you can always have integrity and give 100%
Gay.
yeah its gay lol @@ballerinawallenberg
Overall they look awesome, but, the hidden stringer makes me hitch. I would do whatever to have that stringer visible, specially in an older board like this. Not having a stringer just makes them look wrong. Also, as many have already mentioned: Q-cell and resin the whole thing = smoother base to work on and less issues with delams for sure.
20:21 Are those sanding scratches?
Yes
Tonight I watched some of your repairs and I can say that you need to look into removing fiberglass using a heat gun. When you are done fixing the blank put a coat of white paint on the board. If the repairs still show add a 2nd or 3rd coat of paint. Then use red pigment when glassing. Put the logos on top of the first layer of fiberglass and then add a second layer of fiberglass. Look up Nathan J. Surfboards for other hints or help. I have been making and repairing boards since 1967. Good Luck, Nathan
Does it float? Now that it has 2 tons of primer
Does the board moving around while you work on it drive you crazy? Seems like you should have some sort of setup to keep it clamped or held down.
Bonann seems like such a chill dude, love it.
Dude of course painting Crusty foam with no primer or anything is gonna give you that result.
At least you figured it out in the end 🤙
Overcoming the trouble and persisting until it is done perfectly truly is admirable. I know exactly how you felt. Respect.
This seems like a hard fought lesson in working the problem and not letting the problem work you (too much). Great result, brother! In my experience, those victories that come from having to navigate a lot of obstacles are far more rewarding and memorable than the smooth sailing projects.
I quit my 9-5 to go into my passion for painting. I have a great mentor, but some skill gaps are present and i've ate crow a few times. Internally I have wanted to walk off the job and more often than not, worked 12hr days wondering why I couldn't be better. I'll never give this up and it's reassuring to see others go through similar experiences in other fields of work.
Keep up the good work, I would be happy with that final product considering it's a restoration of a really weathered board.
Brother
It was the Spackle in the library with the lead pipe.
As a painter I know that this product is ONLY for the thinnest cosmetic fixes.
It would not bond to foam especially thicker at the rails.
It might have worked for hanging the surfboard on the wall If you had doubled down on the proper sealer that would have
Soaked in and bonded but for the ocean, it was over at the Spackle😅
dont ever skip buffing content that shit is straight gold there my friend
Is the board worth more or less money after the restoration? Isn’t the original version always better when trying to keep value
Absolutely right. He just destroyed a piece of history. Probably didn’t need Local Motions permission either as it was already on the board. It was still an interesting video.
So frickin cool @ the end with your hand-off of those two original Baywatch surfboards to their owner, in like-new condition>>he obviously picked the right man for the job...beautiful craftsmanship...RIP Brock (Braddah will always be one of my favorite Hawaiian Big Wave 🌊 watermen)
Way cool to see @LocalMotion being so cool with it.
I think the problem of the delamination must come from the spray paint on the blanck, I don't have a huge amount of experience, but I friend of mine actually had this problem shaping one of his first boards.
I was going to say the same thing. It's like getting fish eyes between coats of auto painting. You've got to be sure to clean the paint significantly before applying the laminate. No dust at all or fingerprints or anyting else.
As a surfboard maker too, I trully felt you. Good job not throwing the towel.
would you agree that he did a great job on a nonsensical order? :)
@@simonschneider5913 Totally. I would probably do some things different but I like his approach. To be honest it would be hard not quiting this project if it wasn't the boards they are.
Paint cure time could be part of the issue.
As a professional painter I know some paints take weeks to fully cure.
Manufacturer tries to hide that info for more sales :p read that fine print.
Very apparent passion, perfectionism and professionalism, great job.
I wasn’t having a day , but when you lost temper, I suddenly was not alone and I was sharing in your emotions that I know all too well. Thanks for the video. I’m going back out to the shaping shack now .
I think I would have left original fiberglass on, thinned down as much as possible, flattened with small bits of resin, then sprayed, applied decal, and finished. Would have been more original, and would have solved a lot of the delaminating problems. Also maybe look into west systems they are super good marine products. I used them when restoring boats
Says the person with 0 experience. Stay in your lane buddy
@@Orion_5764 maybe not with surfboards, but I’am highly trained in restoration of marine fiberglass, and epoxy work. This would be like me taking the foam out of a boat, building another boat around it, and then saying it’s the same boat. If I was the customer I’d be extremely pissed if the thing I sent to be restored only came back with one original piece, and a piece you couldn’t see in the first place. So I’ll stick to my statement, and double down by saying this was a terrible job, I could see waves and ripples in the fiberglass, an dull spots that weren’t properly polished.
Glad you didn't quit and came through. Loved the kitchen nightmares cringe sounds. Most of these delam possibilities have been mentioned, but I'll put em all in one place: bad yellowing foam with integrity/ density compromised, spackle should be fine as long as it was roughed up enough for mechanical adhesion, but the less the better; crystallisation from paint, especially thick, uneven coats that havent fully dried through; and then finally heat from excessive sanding. The trial and error is what is going to get you on the level of guys like Randy Rarick some day. Keep at it!
Gotta say first much respect to your craftsmanship.. Saying yes to the project would have paralyzed me w/ anxiety no doubt you got big balls, how do you surf w such big balls? Definitely run a moisture meter or before steps since spackle and paint were added.. on a million dollar board. I have to fin repairs i prepped and put aside almost a year ago.. maybe i do them now. much respect to you brother.. Why didnt they just have you make new boards so those could be in a museum if so imporrtant?
my only concern value wise is there was a couple prints that were on the boards prior but they are no longer there.....
Nice job finishing. You and him had great rapport too.
I'm just curious, why didn't you do a coat of primer in the first place? In pretty much every house or automotive painting I've done, it's always common place to apply primer first. Is it just different for surfboards, or was it just an oversight?
well done man🤟
Awesome stuff KING. Keep em coming
Been there! Something similar happened to me nearly 20 years ago when i started learning violin restoration. And iv seen multiple luthiers get into trouble fast with extremely valuable guitars/violins.
So sick! I kinda want to see the fiberglass redo tbh!
Appreciate your dedication in working through the problems. I have to do that everyday in my line of work.
one thing I noticed is the color of the repair on the "H" under the fin. you can see the color difference in the yellow.
what was the reasoning for not relaying the entire logo?
In that particular case, I'd leave the original board alone and made brand new copies ! I've built and repaired hundreds of boards so I understand very well your struggle... Old worn out foam, paint, filler ain't a good cocktail... But you got a pretty good result , BRAVO ! The fiberglasse logos look nice and practical. I used to print mine on japan paper with silk screens, not an easy job at all ! (back in the 80 in the Caribean...)
I know nothing about surfboards but I have the utmost respect and admiration for your determination and grit! You're truly an inspiration! Have a nice day internet stranger.
Bro are you dumb did you watch the same video I did. He literally put the fins in the wrong spot and had to take them off. This was a hack job with good editing. I don't need to be a surf board expert to know to triple check that. 😂
Hey good job pushing through, I’m no expert but it seems like expanding foam is definitely the standard and a quick google might have fixed some of the issues
Bro if you could find out the right way of doing it in 30 seconds of Google, my man has 0 excuse. You watched a hack job with good editing
Have you ever tried using sealer first, then primer, then paint? Similar to a car paint job.
If you use a heat gun you will wrinkle the paint. If you don’t give it enough time to dry it will wrinkle the paint. If there is foam underneath the paint, which gets heated by the heat gun, then painted over, it will wrinkle the paint.
it delaminated because u used to much primer and paint very common ( also the type of paint u use will also determine the out come )when the polyester or epoxy resin cant reach the foam and bond to cells of the foam ,, heating it up with you sanding pad removing the fin didn't help u out either ,, ,, why it went straight to the old foam after the delam,, ive learned this the hardway myself doing thousands of board builds and restorations in California and Hawaii in the last 45 yrs ,, Qcell was your answer from the beginning
Just about finished making my first skim board and it's been a rollercoaster ride. I had to learn how to handle such an unforgiving material. My boards got a dent, some scratches in it from my fingernail and a few other character traits. But it's been fun overall, and I didn't beat myself up too much, knowing that it was all good for learning. You do good work and this came out 💯!
Cannot imagine how stressful this would have been. But you pulled through and did a killer job, that passion in your craft shows!
At what time wound you just make a new board, identical? The visible part of thr board is what it has value, you don't se the foam in the movie. Probably better to keep the original as it was an have a duplicate.
That's what I thought? Basically a brand new board was made with old foam. I guess that is what the customer wanted though. I think it would have been cool to make a replica and hang it side by side the original.
The frustration and building anxiety is so relatable.
On my refurbished jobs I always kept the history of the dings and damage. I think it keeps the history of the journey. If customers want the original then you need to charge for the headaches that come to sprout. Cause you know they do! It’s hard work!! Keep it up though. Like the work bro
I would never take my board to a ManChild who throws hissy fits over mistakes...
Great editing, had a laugh the whole way through. Great job...in the end.
Boards look good. Question, why use spackle on blank foam instead of q-cell? Thanks.
With that much spray, I would not be surprised if the entire thing delams if the boards ever get warm, at least you know that foam is done degassing. Did you use fin rope for glassing the fins? Also, why not either tint the resin or spray the lam coat as opposed to spraying the foam.
That's the OG version of Local Motion for their logo. So cool to see they said yes.
Have had the rail resin issue before with the uv resin not being happy with normal catalyst resin.
"A legend he created baywatch" 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Nice job. I noticed the end of the Baywatch logo that you had to patch up was a different shade of yellow than the rest of the logo. Was that intentional? The 2nd board wasn’t like that.
Bloody epic, great job!
U sir, are an inspiration. This makes me wanna try restoring my old Al Merrick CI Sashimi board. 😮
No matter how long you've been doing something, you're always gonna make mistakes. Sometimes several. A lot of the time, it has nothing to do with how skilled you are. Sometimes it just happens. You did right by identifying the issue, freaking out at a reasonable rate, fixing it, and moving on to the next step.
UA-cam really gives you the best recommendations at 4am. Hoping this hits the algorithm hard soon so you can achieve your desired 200k views.
Wow, watching this was great, big fan! I feel the anxiety and feel like i'm messing up! Thank you so so so much for sharing!
What made the patch under the fin not match the colors? I couldn't not see it.
Why would i want to get my board repaired by you, when you can even repair a damn board 😂
This was soooo hard to watch. Amazing work. What fixed the final delam? Or just redoing it happened to work?
Nice work I think I can all say we've all been there doing one thing or another, great to see that we are all human and we all want to do the best we can, don't give up, ever.
Amazing work! Enjoyed watching every minute and felt your pain ...
I have learned this the hard way in my craft aswell - can feel the tension through the screen
This is the type of experience/challenge that makes you professional.
Why didn't you keep the stringer visible like on the original baywatch intro ?
You don't use vacuum on laminating? Solves all the problems.
Brings back sweet memories of prototyping and painting nightmares in the shop
Love your channel. Crazy project, but the outcome looks great
Pretty sure that delam happened because you took the shortcut of wetting 2 plys of fiberglass at once. it probably didnt properly wet through the logo ply onto the board. Just pointing out that is the most likely culprit, lack of coverage under the 1st layer of fiberglass(logo), it doesnt seem you did anything else to cause bad adhesion. The logo was really big, and it would be easy to not get enough resin under such a large ply of fiberglass when wetting 2 plies at once. I have never seen 2 plies wet at a time like that professionally, granted lives depend on me in my line of work, but you seem experienced enough that you have done this shortcut multiple times with no issues that you know of. I work in aerospace and we always pre-wet repair plies or lay down a light base coat of resin before adding plies to ensure proper adhesion, it is very easy to get resin starvation that you can't see, voids(starvation/delam) are the most common issues found in non-destructive testing, even though the part looks perfectly fine.
Just sharing my composite experience, it would be unfortunate if you get a bad rap for delams in the future over a shortcut that really doesn't save you much time compared to the cost to your wallet/reputation later. The boards turned out great and you have real talent and passion for what you do, great video.
Wow what tenacity! Kudos for finishing so well in spite of the many setbacks 🎉
Video was such a freaking treat to watch.
I'm gonna say the delamination was probably caused by layering primer over the smooth paint, or the paint over the foam with no primer to grip, but what do i know
The greatest thing about hard jobs is that it makes it so much more enjoyable to do the other ones !