the way you include visual examples of techniques (both what to do as well as what not to do) is so useful. you’re a very effective communicator. it’s useful that you verbally point out what is happening in examples while visually showing it. and it’s cool to see an example of the proper technique as well. you climb with so much intention it’s amazing to watch.
great video Os as usual. ive been climbing over a year now and ive gotten a lot more precise with my foot work but i've never heard the pro tip of adding pressure to make your foothold more secure with friction before. It makes a lot of sense and im super keen to give that a go next time i climb! thanks :)
Great tips, especially about trusting your feet and adding weight. I focus too much on trying to find the perfect position for my feet initially and it never feels right, definitely going to try as you explained in the video. Thanks!
You’re videos are so helpful! I’m a month into bouldering and I’ve been progressing a lot i got my first 5 a week ago ! And now I’m just working on my crimps. But improving my footwork with these videos really made climbing way easier. Thank you and never stop making videos!
I would love to hear about training in general. How much non climbing like core or fingerstrenght do you do and how often. Do you stretch a lot? How often do you go all out in training?
Footwork is such a struggle for me because it is utterly terrifying. My fear of heights tends to kick in when I have to put a foot on a small hold and then I can't think. I guess I have to work on meditation :P
Your videos rock! You are helping me become a better climber (just started 4.5 months ago)! Thanks for your dedication to creating quality videos. Love how you use arrows and circles, and use split screen techniques! Thanks to you, when I'm climbing, I try to imagine where the arrows might be as I put weight/friction on my feet/toes. Rock on and thanks again! :)
I originally just wrote "sweet" in the comment, but on second thought your videos are really well made man, I enjoy the music, red to green circles, your cut shots, length of the vids, speed that you talk and of course the content. Really good stuff, thank you.
I appreciate all the work you are doing it is inspiring and really helpful. As someone that started climbing a few months ago your videos are the best especially for breaking down technique. I had to start recording my own progress as a beginner to see how I can put it all into practice. Keep up the amazing work man you’re awesome.
Hey Oswaldo! Thank you so much for your videos. For me, these are the most elaborate bouldering videos. we are looking forward to the next vids. Incidentally, this video is one of the best
Great video! My trick to prevent constant foot/hand adjustments is: either you stick with the poor placement on the hold and and get stronger, or you fall and learn from your mistake. After a while you will learn the hard way for why proper placement is extremely vital.
Oswaldo, just come across Rockentry and already seeing improvements after the last month of watching your back catalogue of videos, keep it up, absolutely quality really plain speaking and user friendly!
Oswaldo love the vids man. Thx for all the effort working on the channel! Some feedback: you could cut down a few mins on your vids (maybe that's not something you want to do) if you save the reiterations/recaps of each point til the end of the video. Oftentimes you are saying the same points 2 or 3 times in a row. If you think repeating a point a few times is something that helps drive the point home for the listener, find more examples to deliver the message instead of reiterating the point again.
Love the feedback! Really appreciate you for taking the time to write this feedback to help create better content. I will definitely apply this ;) Much love!
@@rockentry I like your video just the way it is. What set you apart from other youtubers is the way you explain things in details. I know we live in a world where people wants to hear what they want in the shortest amount of time as possible, but you made your points more clear by taking your time. That's my two cents. Keep up the good work, Oswaldo.
thank u brother, for all the videos and tips and lessons :) i am just a beginner, trying to understand how it all works. and ur videos have been the greates help!
Beautiful work on all of your videos!!! I really appreciate what you do!!! It’s hard to believe you haven’t hit 100k yet because of how good your videos are!!! Ill be here when it happens tho!!
Great tips! I noticed myself that begginers also tend to switch their foot position more often than needed, leading to a waste of energy. So doing as much moves as possible from the same footholds could be a good advice too (i know it's not always the case, but makes a big difference specially in easier problems)
Trust your feet... It's a thing that is said, but takes time to get. The hard part about "trust your feet" to a new climber is that it is VERY hard to grok. When you're just beginning to climb you don't trust a lot of things because you're afraid to fall. Yes, climbing shoes are new and novel and they "help" to "trust" whilst climbing. For me... "trust your feet" was a nice thing to hear, but was a somewhat useless pronouncement. Sometimes my feet failed after all. I had to learn to use my feet in order to trust them more. As far as I can tell that was a self taught lesson in strength, placement, body movement... a lot of things. I'm still learning to trust my feet at a year and a half of climbing. Your video certainly helps to elucidate body weight and feet. I'll have to think about it more to see if it fits what I know about my own footwork.
I agree with you. Everyone has difficulties in different ways and they have to build those strength in order to use their feet... as you’ve mentioned body positioning, technique, core etc.. BUT regardless if you build up all that strength if you don’t apply the pressure or added weight on that foot chip non of that will matter the added weight needed on a small foot chip makes a HUGE difference. I still struggle with this when I’m in a difficult position at the top of a boulder that I could take a huge fall and it’s mental definitely. If I don’t commit and trust I will fall. Hope this helps and thanks for sharing this useful info my friend. Appreciate ya!
Nice video! I’d love to hear your opinions comparing different rock climbing shoes for 2020, I see there’s a lot of new stuff on the market but I really can’t decide my next shoe. Keep up with the good work you’ve been doing!
Always good to see you :) thank you for what you do :) When will you do a video on slap wall? I think a lot of person didn t do slab wall and that so nice for work on center gravity, feet and trust. (Sorry for my english ) Take care, Olivier
I have a couple of videos on slab wall you can check out, just search on my channel. But I’ll make sure to include more slab wall for a future video ;) Thank you!
Love the videos and tips! I started bouldering 2 months ago at Cliffs of Id, and recently started to feel comfortable with V3s and hoping to tacklet a V4 by the end of the third month. Do you have a video about how you progressed when you first started or your climbing journey?
I have a couple of video talking about my story and journey. I believe one of my vids is called “my story” should pop up if you search under my channel. Thank you!
I'm trying to improve my climbing technique so naturally I come to UA-cam to learn 😁. So glad I found ur channel! But unfortunately, I'm now overloaded with all the techniques I saw on UA-cam. So my question is how do u know when to use what technique? I don't know when I should use heel hook or just step with my toes, should I just climb straight up or use flagging, etc. Now I spend so long on a route just trying all the techniques that I climb worse than before 😭
Glad you’ve found it too ;) welcome my friend. It can get overwhelming specially with all this information. I would suggest to not over think it and just climb. When you climb and find a rout you like and find challenging THEN that’s when you figure out what technique to use and work it. That’s the best way to learn my friend, one climb at a time. Thank you!
good stuff! I'm a bit confused on your use of the word positive though? I always thought that this referred to the slope of holds. Definitely trusting your feet is a huge step. The first time someone made me realize that I was avoiding smaller feet and I started forcing myself to use them my climbing started to improve drastically
What I mean by “positive” it means a good hold or a good part of a difficult hold. So when I refer to finding the positive side of a sloper hold I mean find the “good” side of the hold. Same goes to foot holds how something feels bad but one you add pressure to the hold it feels “good”(positive). Hope this clears things up for you ;) much love my friend and thank you!
@@rockentry ok thanks for clarifying! I had only heard of holds referred to as positive (meaning inclined towards the wall) or negative (meaning sloping off the wall).
Why do I get a super shaky leg sometimes when I’m nervous and flexing my calf’s? Also how do I stop this from happening more calf workouts? Finally when you are on a hold are you always flexing your calf’s or can you relax a little like do you want your foot at a 90 degree angle with the wall/hold?
I try to trust my feet but they slip out quite a bit still. I'm 240 pounds and 5'4" and I'm wondering if it's my weight making me slip out since I'm a heavier set guy. I just started climbing about 3 weeks ago and I really want to get better at it!
Nice vid and heaps of great insights. What’s your thoughts on Five Ten Team 5.10? I’ve read that is pretty much the best toe hook shoe on the current market. Also magnificent for overhangs and smearing as well. If you could give me some comments that’d be much appreciated.
I’ve heard a lot of great things on the Team 5.10 but I have not used them yet. Can’t tell you if they are good. When I do try them out I’ll post about it. Thank you!
Hey Oswaldo, great video. This is one of the pointers you gave me last year and has been phenomenal with improving my hip positioning. Now that I’m projecting V6/7s, do you have advice for shoes? I’ve been going back and forth between my very flat though stiff Evolv shoes and my La Sportiva Futuras. Despite being more“expensive,” I don’t like the Futuras as much as my “cheap” Evolvs. They’re too soft through the midsole and lose edging strength on tiny chips compared to the Evolvs. I’m thinking something stiffer and slightly aggressive on the downturn (basically a hybrid of my two shoes now). Main point is that now that I’m trying more difficult routes with tiny/slippery foot chips that edging power seems more important than ever. Wonder if this was the case for you? Thanks again. The channel has been better than ever. Cheers.
Much love my friend! And really happy about your progress and the fact that you’re projecting V6/7 is awesome!! When it comes to shoes it’s hard to recommend to be honest. Specially how my comfort on some shoes can be a discomfort for you. The best thing to do is to try demo shoes if possible first before making a purchase.
For those with longer second toes than the big toe, Does anybody get sore toes after a long climbing session? Sometimes I feel like I still have energy in me to keep going, but I can no longer put so much weight on my poor sore toes any more. Do toes get stronger and can last for longer sessions if I just keep training?
Great advice here dude,my second pair of shoes (newish) are tight which means when I apply pressure it hurts to the point its very distracting,how people climb with very tight shoes is totally beyond ,am I doing something wrong? Cheers!!!
You shouldn't feel pain when climbing with your shoes. They are either too small, too aggressive or does not fit properly with the shape of your feet. You'll have to try and find shoes that fit just right not too tight.Hope this helps!
My first pair was too tight (just painful going from problem to problem, putting on/off, pushing on small holds) ; the shape was very friendly but the rubber was super tough (instead of complying, it would just slip off => no confidence in footwork). When I went to shop for the second pair, I stayed 4/5hours trying different pairs, twisting and turning on the foot chips of their mini-tryout-slab wall. Result : a properly snug pair that's not painful on tiny holds, walking a couple meters, taking them off and back on, with satisfying smearing and contact => much improved footwork. Pain tolerance to more agressive shoes will come in time (possibly). Good luck out there!
Holds you can’t see you will get a feel where it’s at the more you try it. Muscle memory will kick in and you will naturally get to that hold. Your body will know how far it is AND sometime you do have to search for it but that’s the best you can do at that point. Dynamic foot placement takes practice with both momentum/swing control, core, body engagement and amount of pressure you need to add on the foot chip. Climbing on steep walls helps with this technique a lot! Thank you!
I find my foot slips off when I apply pressure. That is my main concern. Especially trusting feet on high slab problems. Is there a technique to apply pressure to know it won't slip? Maybe lower heel, press in, use toe? Not sure how to trust it under pressure.
Make sure you engage your core if you’re in a steep situation. If it’s a slab problem then if possible shift your weight on the small foot chips BUT this is where you have to trust your feet and go for it. It’s really difficult to get this but once you practice and understand the difference you will be more confident. Keep at it and practice first on slab that’s closer to the ground. Once you’re more confident try it out on higher slab problems. I have some videos on slab problems where you can get visuals on how I do this and how my feet and body position work with slab. Hope this helps!
No. Your toes shouldn’t hurt when stepping on small foothold. Hhmm... if it’s not your shoes not fitting properly than I would say probably excessive use of the toe. Could also be that you’ve just started climbing and need to build up the toe use. Shouldn’t be hurting tho unless you’re over using it.
Love your vids bro, just a bit of constructive criticism on some terminology. You're using the word "positive" wrong here, though I do know what you mean. Positivity in climbing refers to how much the hold is directed away from you (like an in-cut, a jug, etc). It's about how much you can "pull" on the hold and of course that means it also depends on the direction you pull from. A sloper could be slightly positive when you're underneath it but once you get a bit higher it becomes negative. Hard to describe without pictures but hopefully that made sense to anyone reading this. What you really are referring to here is friction. As a physicists this comes very naturally to me but it occurs to me that most folks probably don't know this so here's a brief lesson. Most of the time in climbing, friction is what keeps you on the wall. If the holds are highly positive (big jugs) then friction is not so important but usually it's everything. Now, friction is actually very simple mathematically, it's just two numbers multiplied together. One of those numbers is called the "friction coefficient" and it depends on the two surfaces (in this case, your skin and the hold), you can't really change that. But the other number is the "normal force" which refers to the amount of contact force between the two surfaces. The word "normal" means perpendicular in math/physics. The point is this: if you double the normal force, you double the friction. That's why you need to apply pressure to holds to make them stick. It's also the reason why certain climbers find it easier to hang 45 degree slopers with crimp strength, rather than open palm. Because the crimp allows you to increase the pressure (smaller surface area) which in turn, increases the amount of friction. There's a lot of physics in climbing :)
the way you include visual examples of techniques (both what to do as well as what not to do) is so useful. you’re a very effective communicator. it’s useful that you verbally point out what is happening in examples while visually showing it. and it’s cool to see an example of the proper technique as well. you climb with so much intention it’s amazing to watch.
Really appreciate the kind words. This means a lot, Much love my friend.
Exactly my thoughts.
Hello friends, please forgive the over exposed part of the video ;) have a lovely day!
rockentry no worries and thanks soooo much for creating awesome videos about climbing, tips and tricks 😉😊👍
That's a gorgeous looking V5!
great video Os as usual. ive been climbing over a year now and ive gotten a lot more precise with my foot work but i've never heard the pro tip of adding pressure to make your foothold more secure with friction before. It makes a lot of sense and im super keen to give that a go next time i climb! thanks :)
Great tips, especially about trusting your feet and adding weight. I focus too much on trying to find the perfect position for my feet initially and it never feels right, definitely going to try as you explained in the video. Thanks!
You’re videos are so helpful! I’m a month into bouldering and I’ve been progressing a lot i got my first 5 a week ago ! And now I’m just working on my crimps. But improving my footwork with these videos really made climbing way easier. Thank you and never stop making videos!
I would love to hear about training in general. How much non climbing like core or fingerstrenght do you do and how often. Do you stretch a lot? How often do you go all out in training?
Great questions, I’ll cover these questions on a future video, thank you!
He does have some vids where he covers most of these questions. Check them all out. Great stuff?
Love ur videos thank you so much its very helpful
Legend of a man. Your videos are really helpful cheers mate 👍🏻
Thank you!
You explain very carefully and in a helpful didactic way. I learn a lot with your vídeos. Thanks for the tips!! 😊
Thanks for watching!
Footwork is such a struggle for me because it is utterly terrifying. My fear of heights tends to kick in when I have to put a foot on a small hold and then I can't think. I guess I have to work on meditation :P
Your videos rock! You are helping me become a better climber (just started 4.5 months ago)! Thanks for your dedication to creating quality videos. Love how you use arrows and circles, and use split screen techniques! Thanks to you, when I'm climbing, I try to imagine where the arrows might be as I put weight/friction on my feet/toes. Rock on and thanks again! :)
hehehe love it! ;) Thank you.
Dude your videos have been so helpful! Thank you for breaking this down so well, especially with all the graphics.
Thank you!
How dare you criticize my signature Elvis foot.
Lmao
I originally just wrote "sweet" in the comment, but on second thought your videos are really well made man, I enjoy the music, red to green circles, your cut shots, length of the vids, speed that you talk and of course the content. Really good stuff, thank you.
You're in SoCal?! I'm in SoCal! I did top rope climbing at stoney point once. I go to planet granite. Thanks for the videos. You rock.
I appreciate all the work you are doing it is inspiring and really helpful. As someone that started climbing a few months ago your videos are the best especially for breaking down technique. I had to start recording my own progress as a beginner to see how I can put it all into practice. Keep up the amazing work man you’re awesome.
Mike O'Donnell same here! 👍
Thanks a lot for the support my friend. It’s a great way to progress to record and actually see yourself climb. Keep at it!
Hey Oswaldo!
Thank you so much for your videos. For me, these are the most elaborate bouldering videos. we are looking forward to the next vids. Incidentally, this video is one of the best
Appreciate it. Thank you!
Great video! My trick to prevent constant foot/hand adjustments is: either you stick with the poor placement on the hold and and get stronger, or you fall and learn from your mistake. After a while you will learn the hard way for why proper placement is extremely vital.
Yes this! Thank you for sharing.
I just found your channel. I love the techniques videos!!! I'm excited to try out these tips at the gym today. Thank you!!!
Someone made a video of me climbing, and I was doing that foot shuffle. I had no idea I was doing it, and now I know it's a bad thing. Thanks!
You got that right! I don't trust my feet! That's the story of my climbing life! But I'm working on it. Great video, by the way.
Oswaldo, just come across Rockentry and already seeing improvements after the last month of watching your back catalogue of videos, keep it up, absolutely quality really plain speaking and user friendly!
Thanks so awesome man! good to hear it's helping my fellow climbers. Thank you for watching and the support. Much love!
Very good advice, especially the tip to add weight to footholds
Your videos are very important to me. Thank you😃
Great to see the progress in both your climbing and video quality. Thanks, Ozzie!
Thank you!
Your videos really motivates me to go to the gym and try the techniques out!!
I'm so glad!
I am at the gym now and I am practicing proper technique and silent feet and claims that are below my grade. Your videos help me a lot thank you :-)
Wow, that boulder at the end is dreamy! Nice send m8!
Thank you!
Oswaldo love the vids man. Thx for all the effort working on the channel!
Some feedback: you could cut down a few mins on your vids (maybe that's not something you want to do) if you save the reiterations/recaps of each point til the end of the video.
Oftentimes you are saying the same points 2 or 3 times in a row. If you think repeating a point a few times is something that helps drive the point home for the listener, find more examples to deliver the message instead of reiterating the point again.
Love the feedback! Really appreciate you for taking the time to write this feedback to help create better content. I will definitely apply this ;) Much love!
@@rockentry I like your video just the way it is. What set you apart from other youtubers is the way you explain things in details. I know we live in a world where people wants to hear what they want in the shortest amount of time as possible, but you made your points more clear by taking your time. That's my two cents. Keep up the good work, Oswaldo.
Thank you, This really helps as well. Good to know! ;)
Actually I like it when u repeat HAHHAHA diff preferences I guess
I like the repetition. Actually 3 is the magic number of teaching... ;)
Great video. Very helpful for me
thank u brother, for all the videos and tips and lessons :) i am just a beginner, trying to understand how it all works. and ur videos have been the greates help!
Glad I can help! thank you.
Beautiful work on all of your videos!!! I really appreciate what you do!!! It’s hard to believe you haven’t hit 100k yet because of how good your videos are!!! Ill be here when it happens tho!!
Awesome tips as always! Props for the RHCP shirt too 👏👏
The Girl Climber Thank you ;)
Hey Oswaldo, Thanks for another great video! have you done a video explaining why the body twisting is needed and how to apply it?
fabulous video, it reinforces what I have learned from you. I am a better climber form your knowledge and insights Thank you so much
Ron
Great content man, it’s super helpful!!
Great tips! I noticed myself that begginers also tend to switch their foot position more often than needed, leading to a waste of energy. So doing as much moves as possible from the same footholds could be a good advice too (i know it's not always the case, but makes a big difference specially in easier problems)
Great point. Thanks for sharing!
Really good video. Hard to get pressure on the footholds when they are high and far out to the side. Any tips?
Trust your feet... It's a thing that is said, but takes time to get. The hard part about "trust your feet" to a new climber is that it is VERY hard to grok. When you're just beginning to climb you don't trust a lot of things because you're afraid to fall. Yes, climbing shoes are new and novel and they "help" to "trust" whilst climbing.
For me... "trust your feet" was a nice thing to hear, but was a somewhat useless pronouncement. Sometimes my feet failed after all. I had to learn to use my feet in order to trust them more. As far as I can tell that was a self taught lesson in strength, placement, body movement... a lot of things. I'm still learning to trust my feet at a year and a half of climbing.
Your video certainly helps to elucidate body weight and feet. I'll have to think about it more to see if it fits what I know about my own footwork.
I agree with you.
Everyone has difficulties in different ways and they have to build those strength in order to use their feet... as you’ve mentioned body positioning, technique, core etc.. BUT regardless if you build up all that strength if you don’t apply the pressure or added weight on that foot chip non of that will matter the added weight needed on a small foot chip makes a HUGE difference.
I still struggle with this when I’m in a difficult position at the top of a boulder that I could take a huge fall and it’s mental definitely. If I don’t commit and trust I will fall.
Hope this helps and thanks for sharing this useful info my friend. Appreciate ya!
Omg the Elvis foot😂😭 I just did it yesterday and thought it was cool lmao #firsttimeclimber😂
Great video!
Thanks for the useful video
Bro you climb so elegantly it’s amazing to watch
Thank you! I try my best.
1.PRECISION 0:40
2.ADD PRESSURE 3:08
3.TWIST 3:51
my poor elvis feet hahaha. Sometimes i get it when im nervous it's weird!
Yeah, I get them sometimes when trying to mantel my way to the top lol
Nice video! I’d love to hear your opinions comparing different rock climbing shoes for 2020, I see there’s a lot of new stuff on the market but I really can’t decide my next shoe. Keep up with the good work you’ve been doing!
I'll see what i can do! Thank you ;)
Always good to see you :) thank you for what you do :)
When will you do a video on slap wall? I think a lot of person didn t do slab wall and that so nice for work on center gravity, feet and trust.
(Sorry for my english )
Take care,
Olivier
I have a couple of videos on slab wall you can check out, just search on my channel. But I’ll make sure to include more slab wall for a future video ;)
Thank you!
Nice t-shirt RHCP 🤘
Love the videos and tips! I started bouldering 2 months ago at Cliffs of Id, and recently started to feel comfortable with V3s and hoping to tacklet a V4 by the end of the third month. Do you have a video about how you progressed when you first started or your climbing journey?
I have a couple of video talking about my story and journey. I believe one of my vids is called “my story” should pop up if you search under my channel. Thank you!
I am REALLY bad at "bouncing" my feet on foot holds lol Thanks for the video
Ei man, could to tell me the brand and model of your green badass shoes? Thanks
I'm trying to improve my climbing technique so naturally I come to UA-cam to learn 😁. So glad I found ur channel!
But unfortunately, I'm now overloaded with all the techniques I saw on UA-cam. So my question is how do u know when to use what technique? I don't know when I should use heel hook or just step with my toes, should I just climb straight up or use flagging, etc. Now I spend so long on a route just trying all the techniques that I climb worse than before 😭
Glad you’ve found it too ;) welcome my friend.
It can get overwhelming specially with all this information. I would suggest to not over think it and just climb. When you climb and find a rout you like and find challenging THEN that’s when you figure out what technique to use and work it. That’s the best way to learn my friend, one climb at a time.
Thank you!
Can you do a workout tutorial
Will do my friend. Future video.
Nice RHCP shirt! I have one too! Let's be t-shirt twinsie for a day! :)
hahaha yes twinsies!!
good stuff! I'm a bit confused on your use of the word positive though? I always thought that this referred to the slope of holds.
Definitely trusting your feet is a huge step. The first time someone made me realize that I was avoiding smaller feet and I started forcing myself to use them my climbing started to improve drastically
What I mean by “positive” it means a good hold or a good part of a difficult hold.
So when I refer to finding the positive side of a sloper hold I mean find the “good” side of the hold. Same goes to foot holds how something feels bad but one you add pressure to the hold it feels “good”(positive).
Hope this clears things up for you ;) much love my friend and thank you!
@@rockentry ok thanks for clarifying! I had only heard of holds referred to as positive (meaning inclined towards the wall) or negative (meaning sloping off the wall).
Thanks for your excellent tips, Waldo. I always enjoy your videos. Did you change your shoes from So iLL to Tenaya recently? How are they?
I’m currently using madrock drone shoes and I’m loving them! Highly recommend them.
Why do I get a super shaky leg sometimes when I’m nervous and flexing my calf’s? Also how do I stop this from happening more calf workouts? Finally when you are on a hold are you always flexing your calf’s or can you relax a little like do you want your foot at a 90 degree angle with the wall/hold?
I try to trust my feet but they slip out quite a bit still. I'm 240 pounds and 5'4" and I'm wondering if it's my weight making me slip out since I'm a heavier set guy. I just started climbing about 3 weeks ago and I really want to get better at it!
Nice vid and heaps of great insights. What’s your thoughts on Five Ten Team 5.10? I’ve read that is pretty much the best toe hook shoe on the current market. Also magnificent for overhangs and smearing as well. If you could give me some comments that’d be much appreciated.
I’ve heard a lot of great things on the Team 5.10 but I have not used them yet. Can’t tell you if they are good. When I do try them out I’ll post about it. Thank you!
Hey Oswaldo, great video. This is one of the pointers you gave me last year and has been phenomenal with improving my hip positioning.
Now that I’m projecting V6/7s, do you have advice for shoes? I’ve been going back and forth between my very flat though stiff Evolv shoes and my La Sportiva Futuras. Despite being more“expensive,” I don’t like the Futuras as much as my “cheap” Evolvs. They’re too soft through the midsole and lose edging strength on tiny chips compared to the Evolvs. I’m thinking something stiffer and slightly aggressive on the downturn (basically a hybrid of my two shoes now).
Main point is that now that I’m trying more difficult routes with tiny/slippery foot chips that edging power seems more important than ever. Wonder if this was the case for you?
Thanks again. The channel has been better than ever. Cheers.
Much love my friend! And really happy about your progress and the fact that you’re projecting V6/7 is awesome!!
When it comes to shoes it’s hard to recommend to be honest. Specially how my comfort on some shoes can be a discomfort for you. The best thing to do is to try demo shoes if possible first before making a purchase.
I recommend either evolve shaman or evolve agro, I use the shaman so I might be biased, but I have a buddy who uses the agro's and loves them.
For those with longer second toes than the big toe, Does anybody get sore toes after a long climbing session? Sometimes I feel like I still have energy in me to keep going, but I can no longer put so much weight on my poor sore toes any more. Do toes get stronger and can last for longer sessions if I just keep training?
Great advice here dude,my second pair of shoes (newish) are tight which means when I apply pressure it hurts to the point its very distracting,how people climb with very tight shoes is totally beyond ,am I doing something wrong? Cheers!!!
You shouldn't feel pain when climbing with your shoes. They are either too small, too aggressive or does not fit properly with the shape of your feet. You'll have to try and find shoes that fit just right not too tight.Hope this helps!
My first pair was too tight (just painful going from problem to problem, putting on/off, pushing on small holds) ; the shape was very friendly but the rubber was super tough (instead of complying, it would just slip off => no confidence in footwork). When I went to shop for the second pair, I stayed 4/5hours trying different pairs, twisting and turning on the foot chips of their mini-tryout-slab wall. Result : a properly snug pair that's not painful on tiny holds, walking a couple meters, taking them off and back on, with satisfying smearing and contact => much improved footwork. Pain tolerance to more agressive shoes will come in time (possibly). Good luck out there!
Any advice for precision on holds you can’t see and on very dynamic foot movement where you quickly have to stab out your foot to avoid falling
Holds you can’t see you will get a feel where it’s at the more you try it. Muscle memory will kick in and you will naturally get to that hold. Your body will know how far it is AND sometime you do have to search for it but that’s the best you can do at that point.
Dynamic foot placement takes practice with both momentum/swing control, core, body engagement and amount of pressure you need to add on the foot chip. Climbing on steep walls helps with this technique a lot!
Thank you!
good video- I even went and bought the T-shirt
Love your video’s
I find my foot slips off when I apply pressure. That is my main concern. Especially trusting feet on high slab problems. Is there a technique to apply pressure to know it won't slip? Maybe lower heel, press in, use toe? Not sure how to trust it under pressure.
Make sure you engage your core if you’re in a steep situation. If it’s a slab problem then if possible shift your weight on the small foot chips BUT this is where you have to trust your feet and go for it. It’s really difficult to get this but once you practice and understand the difference you will be more confident. Keep at it and practice first on slab that’s closer to the ground. Once you’re more confident try it out on higher slab problems.
I have some videos on slab problems where you can get visuals on how I do this and how my feet and body position work with slab.
Hope this helps!
when stepping on thin foothold, is it normal that it's painful for your toe? (not due to the shoe, but from stepping on it)
No. Your toes shouldn’t hurt when stepping on small foothold. Hhmm... if it’s not your shoes not fitting properly than I would say probably excessive use of the toe.
Could also be that you’ve just started climbing and need to build up the toe use. Shouldn’t be hurting tho unless you’re over using it.
A bit repetitive explenations..
Good Video examples with usefull spotlights.
Love your vids bro, just a bit of constructive criticism on some terminology. You're using the word "positive" wrong here, though I do know what you mean. Positivity in climbing refers to how much the hold is directed away from you (like an in-cut, a jug, etc). It's about how much you can "pull" on the hold and of course that means it also depends on the direction you pull from. A sloper could be slightly positive when you're underneath it but once you get a bit higher it becomes negative. Hard to describe without pictures but hopefully that made sense to anyone reading this.
What you really are referring to here is friction. As a physicists this comes very naturally to me but it occurs to me that most folks probably don't know this so here's a brief lesson. Most of the time in climbing, friction is what keeps you on the wall. If the holds are highly positive (big jugs) then friction is not so important but usually it's everything. Now, friction is actually very simple mathematically, it's just two numbers multiplied together. One of those numbers is called the "friction coefficient" and it depends on the two surfaces (in this case, your skin and the hold), you can't really change that. But the other number is the "normal force" which refers to the amount of contact force between the two surfaces. The word "normal" means perpendicular in math/physics. The point is this: if you double the normal force, you double the friction. That's why you need to apply pressure to holds to make them stick. It's also the reason why certain climbers find it easier to hang 45 degree slopers with crimp strength, rather than open palm. Because the crimp allows you to increase the pressure (smaller surface area) which in turn, increases the amount of friction.
There's a lot of physics in climbing :)
You climb and you like the Chili Peps! Damn son!
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