A great video. I've observed the same phenomenon over many years on several western spring creeks where fluorocarbon tippet makes a significant difference in the number of fish willing to take the fly. Because of the very small flies used, I typically start with a 10-12 foot 6X mono leader and then run 7X fluoro to the dry fly.
Great video. I have 2 things to add : The Seaguar knot to attache fluoro to mono also works very well. A George Harvey dryfly knot is done on the hook shank like a Turle knot, is very strong, and there is no ugly knot on the leader just ahead of the fly to alert fish The other advantage of the Harvey knot is that the fly always rides right side up if it is on a downturned eye hook, the fly coming straight off the leader . Trout like it.
I would argue that both the decrease in tippet diameter and increase in length of tippet caused less drag, therefore created a better more natural drift, rather than the material change from mono to fluoro. I believe you would have seen the same result if that 6x was mono. Great video, it keep us fisherman thinking and evolving…
Very clever! Amazing results for such a minor alteration. Alot of us benefit from your experimenting..thank you. Should think more about what's actually going on as u do and not just chuck and retrieve, chuck & retrieve.
Dry fly fishing on a still water I cut back a mono tapered leader attach a tippet ring then 18inches of fluro tippet treated with Mucilin Quick Sink. Floatent dressing on fly this work for me - keep u the good work.
Yep! When people say you shouldn't use fluorocarbon with a dry fly, because it will sink your fly, I keep my counsel, but inside I have to shake my head. Crickey! A dry fly (size permitting) will suspend even a significantly weighted nymph without sinking. A nymph which weighs far more than than a foot or three of tippet material.
I have come to the same conclusion here in Ireland, although it doesn't guarantee fish on calmish days it definitely makes the difference between a few fish and nothing.
Some of the claims made for fluorocarbon (which is a monofilament too, BTW) were always absurb. I could always see it underwater: it never seemed noticeably less visible to me than nylon monofilament. If fluorocarbon is usefully able to break the surface, then that is reasonably worth trying. The late, great, Richard Walker devised a leader sinking mixture made from fuller's earth, glycerine and dish washing detergent. I forget the recommended proportions, but you need something a little thicker than toothpaste. Make up a decent sized batch and split it with fly fishing friends. If you decant a small quantity into a suitable sealable pot (with a little felt pad for application) as part of your fishing kit, you can store the surplus in a really airtight jar. That should then last you for the rest of your angling career.
Ya, monofilament simply means "one strand", but "mono" has become synonymous with nylon lines. Mono (Nylon) has a specific gravity around 1.12 - 1.14 while fluorocarbon has a specific gravity of 1.78 so it will sink significantly better than nylon mono.
Peter, thank you for all the great information on both fishi g techniques and tips. I like tying my on lesders but i have yet to find a dry fly leader formula that i can use on mt 4 weight fly rod. Your help will greatly be appreciated. A decicated subscriber.
In years past anglers have written virtual thesis papers on dry fly leaders. I have a book somewhere in my bookcase where the author goes on at great length about formulas. Whenever I've tied up my own dry fly leaders, I've followed a simple formula of 50% butt, 25% taper, 25% tippet. The tapered section is usually made up of two sections. For the diameters, I work backwards from the tippet in no more than two steps in diameter (e.g. 6X tippet connected to 4X taper). When we connect the taper to the butt section, we can make a bigger jump in diameter as we connecting two strong pieces of mono. So overall it might look like: 6X - 4X - 2X - 20 lb.
Yeah, I've landed plenty of big steelhead on 6lb tippet, attached to my leader with a double surgeon's knot.. People get all crazy, tying these 5 minute knots haha.
This is very interesting. I only fish for salmon and striped bass (which unlike trout, are far from fussy!) but I wonder what your opinion is on using a loop knot to attach a dry fly. I would think this would allow to leader to more easily sink below the surface tension while allowing the fly to drift more naturally. Thanks!
Hey Peter, great stuff as usual. We both know someone and he has told me he puts a bit of float gel on the last few inches of his leader and swears by it(just to help keep the fly up). What about a bit of gink on the last few inches of the leader to pull it down? Do you think that would have a similar effect? Thanks again for the videos and info.
The overall length of the leader and the thinness of the leader, plus the size of the fly and the wind we're facing, are much bigger factors than the difference in density of mono vs. fluorocarbon. One of the interesting benefits of extending the leaders by two feet with 6X or 7X was that the turnover tended to be incomplete over the last couple of feet, which in turn reduced the chances for drag.
@@hooked4lifeca interesting. I guess sometimes an imperfect cast is what is required. I have been forced to fish dries a lot this year. Sometimes frustrating to match the hatch and even then you have to get the leader/tippet set up right! Even with the help of a hatch chart i find it difficult. Often I run out of flies to try and go home. Thank you for your videos. Very helpful.
@@hooked4lifeca i have a problem w my casting where the turn over is incomplete or overpowered and the last 2-3 feet of tippet tends to pile and curl next to the fly...not a good presentation!
@@hooked4lifeca thank you for taking the time to respond. I will tty that on Saturday. Your videos are very helpful to me. I will not hesitate to send you suggestions for new videos!
I've done that many times in the past. It was often the key to getting takes. However, fluorocarbon just does the job better since it doesn't create those black lines as it is full sunk.
This is only a factor for a couple of casts or so, then the tippet sinks. In this example, I wanted the oils to remain so I could show what mono looks like when it floats in the surface film.
A great video. I've observed the same phenomenon over many years on several western spring creeks where fluorocarbon tippet makes a significant difference in the number of fish willing to take the fly. Because of the very small flies used, I typically start with a 10-12 foot 6X mono leader and then run 7X fluoro to the dry fly.
Great video. I have 2 things to add : The Seaguar knot to attache fluoro to mono also works very well. A George Harvey dryfly knot is done on the hook shank like a Turle knot, is very strong, and there is no ugly knot on the leader just ahead of the fly to alert fish The other advantage of the Harvey knot is that the fly always rides right side up if it is on a downturned eye hook, the fly coming straight off the leader . Trout like it.
I would argue that both the decrease in tippet diameter and increase in length of tippet caused less drag, therefore created a better more natural drift, rather than the material change from mono to fluoro. I believe you would have seen the same result if that 6x was mono. Great video, it keep us fisherman thinking and evolving…
I second this. I do the same thing for picky fish, but I use nylon. (Fluoro and nylon are both types of mono)
Very clever! Amazing results for such a minor alteration. Alot of us benefit from your experimenting..thank you.
Should think more about what's actually going on as u do and not just chuck and retrieve, chuck & retrieve.
I use Fuller's earth or mud to sink the last 6 inches before the fly . Some folks use washing up liquid
Dry fly fishing on a still water I cut back a mono tapered leader attach a tippet ring then 18inches of fluro tippet treated with
Mucilin Quick Sink. Floatent dressing on fly this work for me - keep u the good work.
Yep! When people say you shouldn't use fluorocarbon with a dry fly, because it will sink your fly, I keep my counsel, but inside I have to shake my head.
Crickey! A dry fly (size permitting) will suspend even a significantly weighted nymph without sinking. A nymph which weighs far more than than a foot or three of tippet material.
I have come to the same conclusion here in Ireland, although it doesn't guarantee fish on calmish days it definitely makes the difference between a few fish and nothing.
Tip of the week thanks for sharing big like from me bud tight line's and catch you on the next video.🎣
I use fluorocarbon all the time, 5x down to 8x. I usually build off of a 9ft 5 or 6x mono leader!
Some of the claims made for fluorocarbon (which is a monofilament too, BTW) were always absurb. I could always see it underwater: it never seemed noticeably less visible to me than nylon monofilament. If fluorocarbon is usefully able to break the surface, then that is reasonably worth trying. The late, great, Richard Walker devised a leader sinking mixture made from fuller's earth, glycerine and dish washing detergent. I forget the recommended proportions, but you need something a little thicker than toothpaste. Make up a decent sized batch and split it with fly fishing friends. If you decant a small quantity into a suitable sealable pot (with a little felt pad for application) as part of your fishing kit, you can store the surplus in a really airtight jar. That should then last you for the rest of your angling career.
Ya, monofilament simply means "one strand", but "mono" has become synonymous with nylon lines. Mono (Nylon) has a specific gravity around 1.12 - 1.14 while fluorocarbon has a specific gravity of 1.78 so it will sink significantly better than nylon mono.
Peter, thank you for all the great information on both fishi g techniques and tips. I like tying my on lesders but i have yet to find a dry fly leader formula that i can use on mt 4 weight fly rod. Your help will greatly be appreciated. A decicated subscriber.
In years past anglers have written virtual thesis papers on dry fly leaders. I have a book somewhere in my bookcase where the author goes on at great length about formulas. Whenever I've tied up my own dry fly leaders, I've followed a simple formula of 50% butt, 25% taper, 25% tippet. The tapered section is usually made up of two sections. For the diameters, I work backwards from the tippet in no more than two steps in diameter (e.g. 6X tippet connected to 4X taper). When we connect the taper to the butt section, we can make a bigger jump in diameter as we connecting two strong pieces of mono.
So overall it might look like: 6X - 4X - 2X - 20 lb.
Never thought about that. But it makes since. Sometimes the mono looks like a telephone pole.
Im sure the trout could see my line today. will have to try this.
I will try this with my furled leaders. I have a 5' floating leader that should work.
On british chalk streams folk use Ledasink by Leeda to sink the final section of their tippet.
Yeah, I've landed plenty of big steelhead on 6lb tippet, attached to my leader with a double surgeon's knot..
People get all crazy, tying these 5 minute knots haha.
Fantastic Video! You made a Believer out of ME!
Rub some mud over the tippet to remove the oil and break surface tension.
Have you tried SA Absolute Trout Stealth? I was using the 4X version of that and it is extremely supple. The flexibility is like a 7X.
Not yet.
This has worked for me too. I use it a lot for flat water dry fly fishing.
This is very interesting. I only fish for salmon and striped bass (which unlike trout, are far from fussy!) but I wonder what your opinion is on using a loop knot to attach a dry fly. I would think this would allow to leader to more easily sink below the surface tension while allowing the fly to drift more naturally. Thanks!
It would have to be a very tiny loop knot otherwise there's a lot of line hanging off the end - the "fussy" problem.
@@hooked4lifecaI also wonder if having a loop knot on a dry would create problems in energy transfer.
I'm gonna try it!
Hey Peter, great stuff as usual. We both know someone and he has told me he puts a bit of float gel on the last few inches of his leader and swears by it(just to help keep the fly up). What about a bit of gink on the last few inches of the leader to pull it down? Do you think that would have a similar effect? Thanks again for the videos and info.
I know of Gink, but never used it so I have no idea how effective it is. Worth giving it a try.
The only question I have is weight and density of flouro vs mono and if that will impact the turnover of flies during the cast.
The overall length of the leader and the thinness of the leader, plus the size of the fly and the wind we're facing, are much bigger factors than the difference in density of mono vs. fluorocarbon. One of the interesting benefits of extending the leaders by two feet with 6X or 7X was that the turnover tended to be incomplete over the last couple of feet, which in turn reduced the chances for drag.
@@hooked4lifeca interesting. I guess sometimes an imperfect cast is what is required. I have been forced to fish dries a lot this year. Sometimes frustrating to match the hatch and even then you have to get the leader/tippet set up right! Even with the help of a hatch chart i find it difficult. Often I run out of flies to try and go home. Thank you for your videos. Very helpful.
@@hooked4lifeca i have a problem w my casting where the turn over is incomplete or overpowered and the last 2-3 feet of tippet tends to pile and curl next to the fly...not a good presentation!
You're probably aiming too low. Aim your cast a couple of feet above the water and it will have a chance to roll out.
@@hooked4lifeca thank you for taking the time to respond. I will tty that on Saturday. Your videos are very helpful to me. I will not hesitate to send you suggestions for new videos!
Awesome, thanks for the tip!
Wise commentary
Can't even think of anything but at least 6lb.floro up here in northern B.C. Canada...dry...wet...or you'll lose the big ones all day.works great.👍
Did you try just increasing your leader with mono? Maybe it was just adding length to your leader and not the change from mono to fluorocarbon
I've done that many times in the past. It was often the key to getting takes. However, fluorocarbon just does the job better since it doesn't create those black lines as it is full sunk.
Good Stuff!!!!
Hi there,why not just degrease you’re tippet to start with ?.
This is only a factor for a couple of casts or so, then the tippet sinks. In this example, I wanted the oils to remain so I could show what mono looks like when it floats in the surface film.
I loathe the use of "Hacks".