i know im asking randomly but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot the password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Louie Ryder Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I really like the way you did your testing and the way you presented your findings. These tests are the best I have seen on UA-cam so far. Good job men! Carry on smartly. That is all.
I use VP, it is a full gallon, but my saw performs great using it. I have never used anything but the canned premix in my saws. This was a great example of testing and I know it was expensive to do. Thanks for you doing this!
i use the VP in all my small engines 2 and 4 stroke.. one thing i noticed in my saws is i had to adjust the carbs when i switched from pump gas they were real sluggish on the VP before i adjusted them
@@aj9270 that’s understandable. Pump gas is 10% ethanol and ethanol is an oxygenate so you would have to adjust you saw. I’m guessing you had to lean out the saw?
I got a 5 gal of VP - for all my tools - My pro blower is a REDMAX EBZ8001 BLOWER - it stopped reving up - problem was excessive oil in VP. I changed everything got new Carb/Air Filter/gas lines/gas tank filter /spark plug and coil Assyrian - no difference - decided to change the carb back to original one and a table spoon of oil came out of the carb/air box. On video as proof I drained the VP gas and filled with TruFuel back to 100% operation - hmmm - on video I changed it back to VP and back to no revving - I contacted VP with video proof - they say they have not had any feedback like this - thanks I am out of pocket - wasted downtime and useless fuel - they said they were going to get a sample back from me - that was Dec 21 - its middle of March 22. Hmmm!!!! Thanks for a great video.
Steve's Small Engine Saloon had a video that identified how the engineered fuel is better for your small engine, but this video shows the outcome of using such a product.Thanks a ton for the time, effort, not to mention money that went into this demonstration. Appreciate everything! Cheers!!!
@@stevenlaxton3618 Me too. The exact reason I started using Trufuel at the end of a season. Chickanic just did a video on some issues related to Trufuel as well. I believe I may be switching over to Motomix going forward
@@rick391 I run ethanol free pump94 octane froma local station and was using red armor mix but am trying old-school Castrol 2t for fun..but picked up a can of the VP 50:1 and will be trying it soon as well too...I haven't been able cut much yet this year but have to get my grandparents some wood here soon so the old pioneer 1110 won't go too hungry 😀
@@stevenlaxton3618 Hey Steve, I run 93 ethanol free in all my small engines with hp ultra for my 50:1 mix. As mentioned earlier in here, if your gas station only has one pump for all gas choices (instead of a dedicated pump for each gas choice), make sure to pump a few gallons in your car before putting any in your gas can. I also use Stabil 360 Marine in my gas/gas mixes as I don't use it up real fast. I used to use Seafoam but a buddy with alot of experience had some issues with Seafoam and switched to the Stabill and recommended using it. As mentioned previously, I only ran the Trufuel at the end of season for my machines but am gonna give Motomix a try instead.
Sir, I just purchased a new Chainsaw after I 'blew up my old saw because of my adding a fuel additive in hope of bettering performance. I wished I had watched this video before I started adding a fuel additive I probably would have saved myself a lot of money and am certain I would still be enjoying my old chainsaw as well. Your video is an excellent instructor for fuel and chainsaws. Thank you
When mixing your own with premium fuel, be sure to put a few gallons in your rig's tank before filling up your 2-stroke jug. The hose and supply line at the pump hold a lot of fuel, usually cheap low octane.
I always instruct folks to do that. I put two gallons in my pickup before filling my gas can every time! There's a sunoco near my work that has a separate pump for the ethanol free fuel, that's by far my preference since you know you're not getting a hose and filter full of 87.
I agree. I’ve done some testing of different pumps at a couple of gas stations and see ethanol contamination in the premium fuel but only at pumps that use one single hose for 3 different grades of fuel. Pumps that have separate hoses dedicated to each grade of fuel did not have cross contamination of ethanol fuel
That's interesting about the octane rating. The highest non-ethanol we have around here is 87, so I have used Tru-Fuel 40:1 because it's the cheapest around here, and I figured higher octane was better. It's also nice that the shelf life on these canned fuels is a bit longer. I can't thank you enough for y'all time and effort and expense you put into this! I greatly appreciate it! Thank you guys!
Thank you Sir. FYI - stihl manual says 89 octane or higher. I've done a few gas tests (search my vids) 89 and 91 came out on top. I myself do not use canned gas I run 91 ethanol free. I do that because I have the theory that fresh gas is best and I think most people buy either 87 or 91 (the cheap regular stuff or if they buy premium they buy the most expensive premium...for me that is 87 and 91 around here).
I must adjust the carb on my husky saws every time I change a different brand canned mix. Emissions requirements have made all 2-stroke fuel systems extremely sensitive to variations in mix viscosity. The carburetor passages are so tiny that any slight variation in viscosity will cause it to run leam or rich. Alcohol content will affect viscosity. The blackened pistons shows the saw was simply running too rich, not that the mix itself was the cause, or better or worse than others. Learning to read your own spark plug to see what's going on inside, and learning to adjust your carb accordingly is a must if you want to tune your own saws. Sticking with the exact same mix that the saw is tuned for is key. If you think mixing your own fuel heavy, at 32/1 or 40/1 will make your saw last longer than 50/1, you are wrong. More oil increases viscosity, and can actually cause a modern 2-stroke to run too lean, and blow up. Mix exactly as specified. Husky & Still tune their saws at the factory with their mix and recommend customers only using their mix for this reason, not just to make money selling canned fuel. Old 2-stroke (pre-emissions) regularly fouled plugs, slugs, and jugs because they just ran rich and smoked a lot. Scraping the crud off the internals was just regular maintenance. Today, you are much more likely to score or blow your top end than ever foul a plug. I dispose of stale 2 stroke fuel (>2 months old) into my riding lawn mower. Also, if mixing g your own, sealed fuel cans are a must with ethanol fuel. Period. Yeah, they all suck. But a vented can will breathe, and pump air in and out of the container, which accelerates oxidation and the ethanol draws moisture out the exchanged air and into the fuel. 1 drop of sepsrated water will plug the internal carburetor screen. Less can partially block it and make it run lean and/or cause it to keep dying and make it hard starting. Bottom line: The government screwed up 2-strokes with extreme emissions regulations and with ethanol fuel mandates. To the point of it being a marvel of engineering that they even run at all, let alone run for more than a hour or 2 without seizing up.
What you say is very true. I have been selling Husqvarna saws for 40+ years, and running them for 45. The bottom line is today's rule for saws for sure!
You are one of 3 people that I have actually heard say that running a heavy oil mixture is not good, and I agree. It's extremely hard for people to grasp the idea that running more oil may do more harm than good. Also, I constantly tell people to tighten the cap and vent on their gas cans tight, so there is no exchange of moisture rich outside air with the gas/air inside. You know what they said, It'll blow up !! lol.
Just recently purchased a new Stihl MS180. Salesman relayed the information from Stihl that they highly recommend 92 octane minimum. Saw starts flawlessly. And rips through wood. So I will keep with the 92 octane fuel. Great comparison, double thumbs up!
I'm from BC Canada where the climate varies not only through the year but throughout different altitudes all year...I was brought up with if you're mixing the fuel you buy the the top octane because when you mix it dilutes it a tiny bit(bah idk if that's the case) but I must say of my great grandpa being in the logging industry and my dad and both grandpa's having firewood saws and now me having my own for firewood.....I haven't seen one issue related to fuel
@@stevenlaxton3618 well you certainly have the background and a wealth of knowledge to draw from. I was a bit skeptical about buying the 180 from all of the bad reviews about not restarting when warm. I have yet to have any issues. The salesman quashed my apprehension. Merry Christmas
Thank you for this post. I cannot even fathom the amount of effort you put in to do this video. There’s a good video on all the garbage that is in the gas for cars on the small engine saloon. So if you look on there, he has an entire list of all the additives and stuff that’s in gasoline that shouldn’t be in there for your small engine. Be blessed my friend. Thanks again. John.
The higher octane is a good thing because adding oil to gas lowers the octane. Starting out with a high octane fuel is better because you don't want the oil to drop the octane below 87. Probably why Husqvarna uses 95 octane fuel to mix with the oil so you still wind up with a higher octane fuel after mixing.
great job with your demo, I've found that once you've used your premix and say let it sit before using it again for 2 or 3 months the best for holding its integrity was Stihl's , then Husquarna's . Never used Tru Fuel or Echo red , but the VP seemed to sour faster and had starting issues, so I quit using it and haven't had the carburetor issues since.
Good test. Nice to see where there’s leftover carbon and where there was visible oil in the bottom end. Also appreciated the comments about how they each smelled. I’m an old engineer and there are two things I wonder about with these premixed/stabilized fuels. The first is what type of oil is in the mix. In regular season I run premium ethanol free gas and mix it with JASO “D” or better spec oil. I do not trust API spec stuff because API does not test. But I haven’t seen the actual oil spec on any of the premix stuff I’ve bought. The oil may also be acting as an octane modifier. The second thing it would be nice to know is the actual chemistry of the gasoline. It is possible to have a lower octane rating and yet still have a higher energy density fuel, depending on the proportion of short and long chain hydrocarbon molecules in the gasoline (how it was refined). Which might account for your perception that the TruFuel was a little “snappier”.
This is such a thorough and amazing test, thank you so much! I’m running a husky 460 rancher on their 50:1 mix, and my craftsman 46cc on a True Fuel 40:1- looks like I’ll be switching to the Stihl brand fuel....
@@Steven-jn2cw Towards the end of the video they talked about how the husky fuel left almost no oil in the bottom end. The cylinder looked great but the bottom end was dry, which can cause much more expensive issues than a fuel that oils the bottom end well but isnt as good on the piston/cylinder
Nice effort guys - Thanks!. Two things though, I would have like to have seen the results of using pump gas as a final convincer, and the cost difference in using pump gas and simply rebuilding the carb regularly. $24-30 for a gallon of fuel is pretty steep...
Understood, if you add up all costs it can be cheaper to accept any issues with pump gasoline, but I think they are testing this type of fuel for Joe Average who wouldn't even know that his chainsaw has a carburettor. Very good point, though. It's like a professional mechanic said to me once when I asked him if he thought "Snap-On" tools were worth the money; he said I never buy them, I can buy six cheap sockets, have a new one every few months and still be monetarily better-off. If Joe Average (ab)uses a chainsaw and throws it away after two-three years, he might consider that acceptable in money terms if he can buy the chainsaws cheaply from a Big-Box Store and run them on cheap gasoline. The same calculation is skewed in the opposite direction for a person who must heat his cabin with wood, has paid 4-5 times as much for a good saw, lives up in the tree-line in the middle of nowhere and values his equipment. Thanks for reminding me of that.
Thanks for the video! I use the Red Armor, been running it for four years as a home owner. A mix of Stihl and Echo commercial equipment. I can get ethanol free gas at the station, right now it is over $7 a gallon here locally. I have never used it, I wonder about water in the fuel from sitting in the underground tank. And yes, I know about the water separators, etc... Most gas stations around here cannot even clean their bathrooms, so I think what must they be doing in regards to pump maintenance? I'll continue to pay the vig, never had an issue with the Red Armor.
Hey man I teally appreciate this video dude, honestly one of the BEST reviews and tests I've seen on here. Very in depth and detailed on what you did. Gave me a great deal of insight.
My understanding of octane in relation to 2 stroke engines is that it should be higher because they run at hotter temperatures. A car engine with 7:1 compression is liquid cooled and stays below 250 degrees, but a 2 stroke chainsaw motor will be closer to 400 degrees.
Awesome video! Years ago I had access to 100-130 octane airplane fuel and used it in all of my small engines mixed with Lucas or Royal Purple 2 cycle. Never filed a plug nor had a sputtering idle. I’ve never used anything but True Fuel and would never mix my own again. The few times I did (Sthil oil) I had to replace carburetor kit and keep extra plugs. Never again!
I love these fuels. It may be expensive but my saw and weed eater go through under 3 gallons between them, at 20 or 25 bucks a gallon that's a good price to avoid carb rebuilds, any potential ethanol issues and possibly longer life. Not brand loyal, I've used stihl and trufuel.
Wow that is a crazy effort! Now you have a life time worth of top ends for that saw. Very well done. In my opinion the gas that leaves the most oil in the crank case is the best for longevity. Iv'e been running tru fuel 40:1 for a little over a year now in everything with good results. But I have so many saws that none of them end up getting used all that much. Some of this new clean burning and low smoke oil make me nervous, you take an engine apart with some of that oil and everything is dry inside. I like more smoke than less and seeing lots of oil in the engine rather than worrying about how clean it burns. Great test sir!
Ok just a carb tuning question was this saw an auto tune? Or did you keep the same hi low settings, Or was it need to touch up the hi low with easy fuel test. And you mention smell is it the oil smell, or the fuel smell Mix.? Ok Very in depth testing you did.
Excellent comparison. Very well thought out and analyzed. It would be great to see a baseline of self-mixed fuel results to truly see the improvements. The prices of each fuel tested also vary, so I assume a value comparison is difficult. I would highly recommend this to anyone using 2-cycle engine.
Thank you for putting the effort and resources into this video. I personally don’t feel you could go wrong with any of them but I appreciate the transparency and method of your experiment.
You Sir are providing a valuable public service, I commend your efforts. Do you plan to test the Aspen 2 and Aspen 4 products produced in Sweden? From my research it is an even cleaner burning fuel at a competitive price point. I’m meeting a rep in a few weeks to purchase a 5.3 gallon container of the Aspen2 and 4, for $92.00 each. My experience over the years is using 93 octane non meth with synthetic Stihl with a stabilization and maybe getting 6 months before having problems. I can store the 93 oct longer than the 87 oct, the only two available near me and I believe Stihl and Husky require 90 oct. thanks man!
I’m not a pro user but my MS311 works well on TruFuel. It works equally well with Stihl oil mixed with Quick Trip ethanol free 89 octane to which I may add a couple ounces of Sea Foam. I only cut three to four hours at a time when I cut and have never had any fuel issues. I use a 20” Stihl bar with a full chisel skip chain (RSF). Great comparison video. Thanks for the effort.
Good video. Question I have is a comparison of wear between 40to1 and 50, did the companies get dragged into 50 just to satisfy the EPA? I would guess more fouling with 40 but how about the bottom end. Long ago we were using 24 to 1 in our outboards, engines that can run for a long time at heavy load, of course water cooled, how have the mix changes affected engine life? As far as emissions go the relatively little amount contributed by saws compared to just one urban rush hour traffic jam should be recognized.
I should add that here in the states the biggest selling point for the premix fuel is the lack of ethanol and all the problems with that. Does anyone else in the world use that crap? If I don't have premix I use 100 oct. low lead aircraft fuel, this is a very stable fuel and very low lead so that isn't an issue AND no ethanol!
Oh man, you deserve a medal for this. I had to subscribe for the sheer effort you put into this test even though I don't believe in pre-mixed fuels. They are a waste of money IMO because the same can be achieved with ethanol-free gas and quality 2-cycle oil.
Just came across this video and you really went above and beyond!! Best video on canned gas ever. I’d have expected VP to look cleaner as that’s all that they do. I’ve tried Tru Fuel in my new string trimmer and it was horrible. Lacked power and was slow to rev up. Went back to pump gas and Bel Ray oil like I’ve used in all of my 2 strokes for 30 plus years. Runs like a top now. Thank you for doing this video!
Will the Husqvarna XP+ 110-fl oz 50:01:00 Ethanol Free Pre-blended 2-cycle Fuel work with my Husqvarna 150bt backpack blower and my Husqvarna Heavy Duty Chainsaw 440?
This was very informative, would have loved to see the 40:1 test. The stihl non ethanol premix as it compared to ethanol fuel comment really hit me. Thanks
Wondering if you checked the timing on the meteor cylinders? Have used several on ms460 and there seem to be quiet a difference from cylinder to cylinder?
Chainsaws may only have a 7 to 1 compression ratio, but I've noticed a huge difference from running 87 octane to 93. The 93 just seems to make it run smoother all around, especially when it's warm out and the saw starts getting a little hotter than normal. Weird shit.
I’ve only had experience with the TruFuel, and the Husqvarna Pre mix, and have had good luck with the Husqvarna. This fuel setup is so expensive, but like my local Shop Tech says, if the saw, trimmer, whatever has infrequent use, it’s better than pump gas and oil mix. A Stihl Dealer told me long long time ago, when mixing pump gas, go with the high octane. He went to some Fuel School training, so I figured he knew what he was talking about. I don’t think it makes much difference with all these pre mix brands, like you all said. I only use Ethanol free (supposedly) from my local gas and go store, to mix 50:1. Have not had any issues. I use the Husqvarna XP oil. My little 345 is coming up on 14 years, and still going! I gotta say, that Stihl and bar combo looks sweet, and sounds and runs sweet! Your saw skills are good! I think it ran a little better with the Husky Premix? 🤔 😂 Again, appreciate the effort to make this video! Peace! 👍✌🏻🇺🇸
I've always had good results with the Husqvarna pre-mix. Plus I love the smell. Always has a new Husky tool smell lol. I think his saw ran best on it too
Nice job fellows. I always wondered about the differences (and if there really was a difference) between these pre-mixed fuels. Thanks for the information.
Pretty interesting video. Thanks for going through the trouble to make it. Some of us are really interested in issues like this in order to ensure the performance of our saws and their longevity. I wonder did you do a break inperiod of any sort each time you switched cylinder and piston? Maybe I’m a little paranoid but I always do a break-in. When I rebuild a saw I run it at 40:1 on the first three tanks to break it in. Maybe it’s not necessary, but I like my stuff to last as long as it possibly can.
In EU there's Aspen 2T mix. Cost 25 bucks per 5 liter. Mostly i add some extra Castrol A747 oil to it. 50 :1 is too hot. 40:1 im using in my 270 and 441. Marine fuel is rare to get here. Bio ethanol in regular fuel is bad for saws.
Very interesting test! Thank you! Some notes that I've found out during years: I'm from europe, and here I usually buy 100 octane premium pump gas with 10%Ethanol in it. Not the octane is making me buy that gas, but the aditives that it has. I get a more clean burn with that gas as I would use a regular 95 octane pump gas. For the las year I used in my brushcutter that premium gas and Stihl Hp Ultra at 40:1. Very low carbon build up on the exhaust port(on the main flow starts to build up), the piston has build up on it, just as you showed us in this video and the combustion chamber has also little build up. All the best and a Happy New Year!
You forgot the Echo canned fuel! Also, have you ever comparatively done oils? I’d like to see Amsoil saber VS the rest. 50:1 and/or even the recommended 100:1.....very interested in that because I’m a dealer. I could even hook you up if you let me know.
Well dustin why don't you spend your own money and make a video of your own tests? I doubt your gunna spend the money and time buying 2 different cylinder jugs and piston and 4 cans of the fuel plus your time..
Gino Gallegos probably because Red Bull could be way better at making videos than he is. Also he offered to send him product to help support his channel.
I switched over to Amsoil a year ago and that is all I use in all my 2 stroke engines. I buy 100% 87 octane gas and mix 50:1. I would pay for the piston and cylinder just to see the amount of oil down in the crankcase if it was mixed the way I mix. Amsoil says you can go down to 100:1 for 50:1, but I'm not interested in seeing that ratio.
I used the Tru Fuel in my weed eater and chain saw. After using it for a month I had trouble in both Pieces of equipment with residue build up which created starting problems. Had to have the carbs cleaned,. Went back to mixing my own fuel. No more problems.
I just went to.buy a small can of True Fuel for my Stihl chainsaw, put it on and now I'm starting to notice that I'm having problems. Although it doesn't smell and is less smokey, it doesn't run as smooth and it just stops if I leave to iddle.
Good comparison ...however my concern is the build up on the top of the piston. Strange how Stihl had the cleanest bore and exhaust outlet but the dirtiest piston.
The piston from the moto mix is the dirtiest piston out of the 4, is that cause you ran more tanks of it than the other 3? You were also looking at the amount of oil in the crankcase, is more oil better or worse? I prefer the VP MIX and run the 40:1 in all my saws.
Have you seen Sunoco race fuel came out with some pre mix fuel of their own I'd love to see a part two with Sunoco fuel, Echo red armor, Walmart SEF 2 stroke, and Super S super-fuel. Other than the red armor there's absolutely nothing on most of those other pre mix fuels. It makes you wonder if $4 a can gas could be as good as $13 a can gas, or if either of them are as good as regular old gas & oil
i was using tru fuel but i started using my saws too much for cost. i buy the ethanol free stuff and mix my own and mix in 1 gal can. i liked seeing all the pistons and jugs afterwards. i think the biggest thing really is shelf life and having to drain the gas if saw sits for anytime. i watched one guy using stabill and the gas was trash. i saw this in my sisters mower that wouldnt start. i drained gas in a jug and then later poured some out and tried to light. would not light at all and it had stabil in it. i think all that stuff is crap after this and will not use. i just keep small quanity of gas and mix small amounts as needed
I think Project Farm or someone did a test with gas preservatives and came to the same conclusion, that they were junk. I think the best thing is, if you know that any tool is gonna be stored for a while is, run some 2 stroke mix/ethanol free gas through it, until it stalls and hope for the best ?
I'm going to order a knock off ms660 the blue Chinese 90cc saw what would you recommend running for break in and then after ? also would you change the exhaust on it ?
Man if you use a chain saw all the time and you bought 20.00 dollar plus fuel just to keep your saw running longer is ok. But you spend so much money on the fuel you could save that money and just buy a new saw. You would spend hundreds of dollars just buying great fuel. Don’t add up. Great video hats off to you! Buy non ethanol and you good quality oils to mix with. I would like to add this: those fuels you tested are great and no doubt would not gum up a carburetor when you store your your equipment. They definitely have a place. And if you can afford the best then why not.
Agreed. Someone further up the comments suggested that you could also use regular gasoline during the season and just switch to canned fuel for the last couple of fills before storing the machinery. However in Sweden I think they mandate the use of alkylated fuel (Aspen) if you have employees (Health & Safety legislation). Sweden is heavy on the liberal attitudes.
Hi fella from Norway!! Just got question to you.Ive bought in Norway a brand new Stihl 018 from 2000 year ,never used.what kind of oil would you use to this chainsaw?ratio? Many thanks
if I were forced to run ultra I'd run it 45:1. Not as much oil as 40:1 which I'd like but I personally don't think it burns clean at 40:1. 50:1 for me isn't enough oil with conventional gas. So 45:1 would be a nice compromise. I like mobil 1 2t which you should be able to get?...I can't get it here anymore but I see it on ebay over seas. Also like Schaeffer's 9000 and 7000. Honda HP2. Motul 800 OFF ROAD.
Redbull661 Redbull 661 thanks for your feedback I was told by a Stihl dealer to use this as he told me it being full synthetic is the best oil for the engine
Usually I don't write any comments on UA-cam, but thank you for a hell of a job you've done and shared with us. I do my own premixes and I'm working with Husky, Stihl and Oregon oils. My premix consumption is approx. 15 liters (4 galons) per week. So this was quite informative for me when you showed the oiling difference between Husky and Stihl oils. Thank you once again and greetings from Finland, EU.
I would prefer mobil 1 or motul 800 off rd over these. This is just canned gas. It's been my experience the oils in these canned gases do not work as well with gas you buy at the pump/gas station.
Wow, this really took some time. I might have missed this but was the air filter clean with each cylinder change? Thanks so much for this video. Very interesting but not surprised with the Stihl fuel.
All these higly pure fuels are in fact same type(alkylated). Just simply the best for small engines (and especially for winterizing them). Never had any kind of fuel related issues with it or decrease of power. Many seasons and long periods of sitting wasn't an issue. Sadly it's expensive.
Agreed, but @chickanic definitely found issues with Trufuel in her Small Engine Workshop that I've never seen having used Aspen Fuel in the UK for a long time. I thought that they must be nearly the same, but maybe not, judging by this video.
This is absolutely amazing results!! I use VP 4cycle fuel and full synthetic oil and mix myself. I do agree with you on the smells VP fuel in my opinion isn't that bad of a smell. I've been running my equipment this way for a long time. I was using Tru-Fuel, but started using VP and like it much better than Tru- fuel. Fantastic job on these comparisons. This must have taken a long time and cost alot to do?? I greatly appreciate you doing this video. Wish I'd have seen it when you first posted it. You got another sub good Sir
I wanted to search for this 10 months ago...good thing I waited. Love how VP Racing lumps all the hydrocabons together on the SDS so they don't have to list hazards individually, unlike TruFuel.
I have found that my saws run better on an octane around 90. Running 87 they definitely do not perform as well. Similarly we tried 100 octane and that did not produce the best results either.
Poulans I’ve found out like the very high octane. Like the vp, last time I used the tru or a mix I make with 93 from pump it just bogs down and doesn’t seem to get the max rpm
I have run a Stihl MS441C for 20 years using pump gas and TSC 2 cycle oil, with no problems. I also add StaBil to each tank, and I have not had to dump the tank in the off season. BTW, where is the PPE? And why do so many sawyers play with the throttle?
My small engine mechanic said my chainsaw had straight gas in my Husqvarna 440. Which I used the True-flow 50:1 gas. It ran rough then wouldn't start after a few cursed pulls. The cylinder walls were scored. I think the saw is ruined.
Did you note when was the fuel made? There should be a production date on all of the cans, and I have found that some fuel can be as much as 6 months old before it is even purchased. Your tear down and visual inspection shows the efficiency of combustion, and I wonder whether the age of the fuel makes a difference. I would have liked to see how much power the saw makes running on each fuel, as for me, that's probably the biggest reason to use premium fuel over pump gas. And if power is not important, then the only other reason to use this fuel is to hopefully to avoid the inconsistency of pump gas and the occasional issues associated with pump gas.
Fantastic Video. Thank you. Have you tried a similar video between premix, E10/E15 and EO? I'm wondering if there is a difference to using E0 with Husqvarna XP oil or Husqvarna premix. Thanks again for the great video.
Call me crazy but in terms of burning I believe in general slower is hotter and hotter is cleaner(carbon and excess oil etc.) ?so the higher the octane the slower the burn and in turn a hotter cleaner burn of the air fuel mixture...I haven't tested Temps between fuels in a test before....but am I right with train of thought?
I just got my Stihl saw bavk from the Stihl saw shop. My saw would not start after running it to cut some poles last month. I was using True Fuel. The Stihl shop said True Fuel gunked up the Stihl carb and tank breather. Could this be the True Fuel or the finique Stihl carb?
Awesome vid!! Quick story about Stijl ultra. Got a hand me down trimmer and I removed the muffler to inspect and the piston was black. I ran mixed Stijl ultra not the pre mix for like three weekends worth of sacking and inspected the exhaust side of the piston again and The ultra completely cleaned the skirt like new almost.
Man, you went way above and beyond for this demo! You put some $$$ into this testing. Much appreciated!👍🏼👍🏼
i know im asking randomly but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot the password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Louie Ryder Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Louie Ryder It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account !
@Jabari Quinton glad I could help :)
and plany of time Respect+
I really like the way you did your testing and the way you presented your findings. These tests are the best I have seen on UA-cam so far. Good job men! Carry on smartly. That is all.
Thank you Sir.
@@Redbull661 I second that 💯💯
I use VP, it is a full gallon, but my saw performs great using it. I have never used anything but the canned premix in my saws. This was a great example of testing and I know it was expensive to do. Thanks for you doing this!
thanks!
i use the VP in all my small engines 2 and 4 stroke.. one thing i noticed in my saws is i had to adjust the carbs when i switched from pump gas they were real sluggish on the VP before i adjusted them
@@aj9270 that’s understandable. Pump gas is 10% ethanol and ethanol is an oxygenate so you would have to adjust you saw. I’m guessing you had to lean out the saw?
I got a 5 gal of VP - for all my tools - My pro blower is a REDMAX EBZ8001 BLOWER - it stopped reving up - problem was excessive oil in VP. I changed everything got new Carb/Air Filter/gas lines/gas tank filter /spark plug and coil Assyrian - no difference - decided to change the carb back to original one and a table spoon of oil came out of the carb/air box. On video as proof I drained the VP gas and filled with TruFuel back to 100% operation - hmmm - on video I changed it back to VP and back to no revving - I contacted VP with video proof - they say they have not had any feedback like this - thanks I am out of pocket - wasted downtime and useless fuel - they said they were going to get a sample back from me - that was Dec 21 - its middle of March 22. Hmmm!!!! Thanks for a great video.
Steve's Small Engine Saloon had a video that identified how the engineered fuel is better for your small engine, but this video shows the outcome of using such a product.Thanks a ton for the time, effort, not to mention money that went into this demonstration. Appreciate everything! Cheers!!!
Steves video on the stihl fuel brought me here too hahahaha
@@stevenlaxton3618 Me too. The exact reason I started using Trufuel at the end of a season. Chickanic just did a video on some issues related to Trufuel as well. I believe I may be switching over to Motomix going forward
@@rick391 I run ethanol free pump94 octane froma local station and was using red armor mix but am trying old-school Castrol 2t for fun..but picked up a can of the VP 50:1 and will be trying it soon as well too...I haven't been able cut much yet this year but have to get my grandparents some wood here soon so the old pioneer 1110 won't go too hungry 😀
@@stevenlaxton3618 Hey Steve, I run 93 ethanol free in all my small engines with hp ultra for my 50:1 mix. As mentioned earlier in here, if your gas station only has one pump for all gas choices (instead of a dedicated pump for each gas choice), make sure to pump a few gallons in your car before putting any in your gas can. I also use Stabil 360 Marine in my gas/gas mixes as I don't use it up real fast. I used to use Seafoam but a buddy with alot of experience had some issues with Seafoam and switched to the Stabill and recommended using it. As mentioned previously, I only ran the Trufuel at the end of season for my machines but am gonna give Motomix a try instead.
Sir, I just purchased a new Chainsaw after I 'blew up my old saw because of my adding a fuel additive in hope of bettering performance. I wished I had watched this video before I started adding a fuel additive I probably would have saved myself a lot of money and am certain I would still be enjoying my old chainsaw as well. Your video is an excellent instructor for fuel and chainsaws. Thank you
Now I understand why some people buy this expensive stuff. Thank you.
When mixing your own with premium fuel, be sure to put a few gallons in your rig's tank before filling up your 2-stroke jug. The hose and supply line at the pump hold a lot of fuel, usually cheap low octane.
I always instruct folks to do that. I put two gallons in my pickup before filling my gas can every time!
There's a sunoco near my work that has a separate pump for the ethanol free fuel, that's by far my preference since you know you're not getting a hose and filter full of 87.
I agree. I’ve done some testing of different pumps at a couple of gas stations and see ethanol contamination in the premium fuel but only at pumps that use one single hose for 3 different grades of fuel. Pumps that have separate hoses dedicated to each grade of fuel did not have cross contamination of ethanol fuel
It was good to point that out. I'm sure a lot of folks would not have think about that.
Wow, one of the best tests of any kind I've seen. Terrific effort and expense to get this done, thanks!
Thanks!
That's interesting about the octane rating. The highest non-ethanol we have around here is 87, so I have used Tru-Fuel 40:1 because it's the cheapest around here, and I figured higher octane was better. It's also nice that the shelf life on these canned fuels is a bit longer.
I can't thank you enough for y'all time and effort and expense you put into this! I greatly appreciate it! Thank you guys!
Thank you Sir. FYI - stihl manual says 89 octane or higher. I've done a few gas tests (search my vids) 89 and 91 came out on top. I myself do not use canned gas I run 91 ethanol free. I do that because I have the theory that fresh gas is best and I think most people buy either 87 or 91 (the cheap regular stuff or if they buy premium they buy the most expensive premium...for me that is 87 and 91 around here).
@@Redbull661 Thank you again!
Here in Texas, the QuikTrip gas stations sell 90 octane non ethanol. Perfect for saws
I must adjust the carb on my husky saws every time I change a different brand canned mix. Emissions requirements have made all 2-stroke fuel systems extremely sensitive to variations in mix viscosity. The carburetor passages are so tiny that any slight variation in viscosity will cause it to run leam or rich. Alcohol content will affect viscosity.
The blackened pistons shows the saw was simply running too rich, not that the mix itself was the cause, or better or worse than others.
Learning to read your own spark plug to see what's going on inside, and learning to adjust your carb accordingly is a must if you want to tune your own saws. Sticking with the exact same mix that the saw is tuned for is key. If you think mixing your own fuel heavy, at 32/1 or 40/1 will make your saw last longer than 50/1, you are wrong. More oil increases viscosity, and can actually cause a modern 2-stroke to run too lean, and blow up. Mix exactly as specified.
Husky & Still tune their saws at the factory with their mix and recommend customers only using their mix for this reason, not just to make money selling canned fuel.
Old 2-stroke (pre-emissions) regularly fouled plugs, slugs, and jugs because they just ran rich and smoked a lot. Scraping the crud off the internals was just regular maintenance.
Today, you are much more likely to score or blow your top end than ever foul a plug.
I dispose of stale 2 stroke fuel (>2 months old) into my riding lawn mower.
Also, if mixing g your own, sealed fuel cans are a must with ethanol fuel. Period. Yeah, they all suck. But a vented can will breathe, and pump air in and out of the container, which accelerates oxidation and the ethanol draws moisture out the exchanged air and into the fuel.
1 drop of sepsrated water will plug the internal carburetor screen. Less can partially block it and make it run lean and/or cause it to keep dying and make it hard starting.
Bottom line: The government screwed up 2-strokes with extreme emissions regulations and with ethanol fuel mandates. To the point of it being a marvel of engineering that they even run at all, let alone run for more than a hour or 2 without seizing up.
Thank you, I've been telling people for years that adding too much oil is bad as it will cause the engine to run lean!
What you say is very true. I have been selling Husqvarna saws for 40+ years, and running them for 45. The bottom line is today's rule for saws for sure!
You are one of 3 people that I have actually heard say that running a heavy oil mixture is not good, and I agree. It's extremely hard for people to grasp the idea that running more oil may do more harm than good. Also, I constantly tell people to tighten the cap and vent on their gas cans tight, so there is no exchange of moisture rich outside air with the gas/air inside. You know what they said, It'll blow up !! lol.
Just recently purchased a new Stihl MS180. Salesman relayed the information from Stihl that they highly recommend 92 octane minimum. Saw starts flawlessly. And rips through wood. So I will keep with the 92 octane fuel. Great comparison, double thumbs up!
I'm from BC Canada where the climate varies not only through the year but throughout different altitudes all year...I was brought up with if you're mixing the fuel you buy the the top octane because when you mix it dilutes it a tiny bit(bah idk if that's the case) but I must say of my great grandpa being in the logging industry and my dad and both grandpa's having firewood saws and now me having my own for firewood.....I haven't seen one issue related to fuel
@@stevenlaxton3618 well you certainly have the background and a wealth of knowledge to draw from. I was a bit skeptical about buying the 180 from all of the bad reviews about not restarting when warm. I have yet to have any issues. The salesman quashed my apprehension. Merry Christmas
Thank you for this post. I cannot even fathom the amount of effort you put in to do this video. There’s a good video on all the garbage that is in the gas for cars on the small engine saloon. So if you look on there, he has an entire list of all the additives and stuff that’s in gasoline that shouldn’t be in there for your small engine. Be blessed my friend. Thanks again. John.
The higher octane is a good thing because adding oil to gas lowers the octane. Starting out with a high octane fuel is better because you don't want the oil to drop the octane below 87. Probably why Husqvarna uses 95 octane fuel to mix with the oil so you still wind up with a higher octane fuel after mixing.
great job with your demo, I've found that once you've used your premix and say let it sit before using it again for 2 or 3 months the best for holding its integrity was Stihl's , then Husquarna's . Never used Tru Fuel or Echo red , but the VP seemed to sour faster and had starting issues, so I quit using it and haven't had the carburetor issues since.
Good test. Nice to see where there’s leftover carbon and where there was visible oil in the bottom end. Also appreciated the comments about how they each smelled. I’m an old engineer and there are two things I wonder about with these premixed/stabilized fuels. The first is what type of oil is in the mix. In regular season I run premium ethanol free gas and mix it with JASO “D” or better spec oil. I do not trust API spec stuff because API does not test. But I haven’t seen the actual oil spec on any of the premix stuff I’ve bought. The oil may also be acting as an octane modifier. The second thing it would be nice to know is the actual chemistry of the gasoline. It is possible to have a lower octane rating and yet still have a higher energy density fuel, depending on the proportion of short and long chain hydrocarbon molecules in the gasoline (how it was refined). Which might account for your perception that the TruFuel was a little “snappier”.
This is such a thorough and amazing test, thank you so much! I’m running a husky 460 rancher on their 50:1 mix, and my craftsman 46cc on a True Fuel 40:1- looks like I’ll be switching to the Stihl brand fuel....
What's wrong with the husky fuel?
@@Steven-jn2cw Towards the end of the video they talked about how the husky fuel left almost no oil in the bottom end. The cylinder looked great but the bottom end was dry, which can cause much more expensive issues than a fuel that oils the bottom end well but isnt as good on the piston/cylinder
Nice effort guys - Thanks!. Two things though, I would have like to have seen the results of using pump gas as a final convincer, and the cost difference in using pump gas and simply rebuilding the carb regularly. $24-30 for a gallon of fuel is pretty steep...
I wouldnt use Pump gas, that even with YOUR Equipment.. that's Trash, with Sketchy Guesswork
Understood, if you add up all costs it can be cheaper to accept any issues with pump gasoline, but I think they are testing this type of fuel for Joe Average who wouldn't even know that his chainsaw has a carburettor. Very good point, though. It's like a professional mechanic said to me once when I asked him if he thought "Snap-On" tools were worth the money; he said I never buy them, I can buy six cheap sockets, have a new one every few months and still be monetarily better-off. If Joe Average (ab)uses a chainsaw and throws it away after two-three years, he might consider that acceptable in money terms if he can buy the chainsaws cheaply from a Big-Box Store and run them on cheap gasoline. The same calculation is skewed in the opposite direction for a person who must heat his cabin with wood, has paid 4-5 times as much for a good saw, lives up in the tree-line in the middle of nowhere and values his equipment. Thanks for reminding me of that.
Thanks for the video! I use the Red Armor, been running it for four years as a home owner. A mix of Stihl and Echo commercial equipment. I can get ethanol free gas at the station, right now it is over $7 a gallon here locally. I have never used it, I wonder about water in the fuel from sitting in the underground tank. And yes, I know about the water separators, etc... Most gas stations around here cannot even clean their bathrooms, so I think what must they be doing in regards to pump maintenance? I'll continue to pay the vig, never had an issue with the Red Armor.
Hey man I teally appreciate this video dude, honestly one of the BEST reviews and tests I've seen on here. Very in depth and detailed on what you did. Gave me a great deal of insight.
Thanks!
My understanding of octane in relation to 2 stroke engines is that it should be higher because they run at hotter temperatures. A car engine with 7:1 compression is liquid cooled and stays below 250 degrees, but a 2 stroke chainsaw motor will be closer to 400 degrees.
Awesome video! Years ago I had access to 100-130 octane airplane fuel and used it in all of my small engines mixed with Lucas or Royal Purple 2 cycle. Never filed a plug nor had a sputtering idle. I’ve never used anything but True Fuel and would never mix my own again. The few times I did (Sthil oil) I had to replace carburetor kit and keep extra plugs. Never again!
I love these fuels. It may be expensive but my saw and weed eater go through under 3 gallons between them, at 20 or 25 bucks a gallon that's a good price to avoid carb rebuilds, any potential ethanol issues and possibly longer life.
Not brand loyal, I've used stihl and trufuel.
Wow that is a crazy effort! Now you have a life time worth of top ends for that saw. Very well done. In my opinion the gas that leaves the most oil in the crank case is the best for longevity. Iv'e been running tru fuel 40:1 for a little over a year now in everything with good results. But I have so many saws that none of them end up getting used all that much. Some of this new clean burning and low smoke oil make me nervous, you take an engine apart with some of that oil and everything is dry inside. I like more smoke than less and seeing lots of oil in the engine rather than worrying about how clean it burns. Great test sir!
Ok just a carb tuning question was this saw an auto tune?
Or did you keep the same hi low settings,
Or was it need to touch up the hi low with easy fuel test.
And you mention smell is it the oil smell, or the fuel smell
Mix.?
Ok
Very in depth testing you did.
Check out Aspen Fuel if you can get it. No smell and cleaner than those. Great comparison, that was a pricy one!
Excellent comparison. Very well thought out and analyzed. It would be great to see a baseline of self-mixed fuel results to truly see the improvements. The prices of each fuel tested also vary, so I assume a value comparison is difficult. I would highly recommend this to anyone using 2-cycle engine.
Thank you for putting the effort and resources into this video. I personally don’t feel you could go wrong with any of them but I appreciate the transparency and method of your experiment.
You Sir are providing a valuable public service, I commend your efforts. Do you plan to test the Aspen 2 and Aspen 4 products produced in Sweden? From my research it is an even cleaner burning fuel at a competitive price point. I’m meeting a rep in a few weeks to purchase a 5.3 gallon container of the Aspen2 and 4, for $92.00 each. My experience over the years is using 93 octane non meth with synthetic Stihl with a stabilization and maybe getting 6 months before having problems. I can store the 93 oct longer than the 87 oct, the only two available near me and I believe Stihl and Husky require 90 oct. thanks man!
*WOW* that's quite some effort!
You deserve a crazy watch count
thanks
@@Redbull661 sure 👍🏽🙏🏽 Say, are you used to mostly using the dawgs or it was a decision to put more resistance when possible?
@@Redbull661 What's the best oil to gas ratio ???
@@Sensei948 overall I'd say 40:1 depends on some factors. But 40:1 would be my go to for anything.
@@Redbull661 i.e. for saws and trimmers 1:40 Ls +? or 1:33? 1:33 will there be a lot more carbon deposit?
I’m not a pro user but my MS311 works well on TruFuel. It works equally well with Stihl oil mixed with Quick Trip ethanol free 89 octane to which I may add a couple ounces of Sea Foam. I only cut three to four hours at a time when I cut and have never had any fuel issues. I use a 20” Stihl bar with a full chisel skip chain (RSF). Great comparison video. Thanks for the effort.
Good video. Question I have is a comparison of wear between 40to1 and 50, did the companies get dragged into 50 just to satisfy the EPA? I would guess more fouling with 40 but how about the bottom end. Long ago we were using 24 to 1 in our outboards, engines that can run for a long time at heavy load, of course water cooled, how have the mix changes affected engine life? As far as emissions go the relatively little amount contributed by saws compared to just one urban rush hour traffic jam should be recognized.
I should add that here in the states the biggest selling point for the premix fuel is the lack of ethanol and all the problems with that. Does anyone else in the world use that crap? If I don't have premix I use 100 oct. low lead aircraft fuel, this is a very stable fuel and very low lead so that isn't an issue AND no ethanol!
Does Canadian gas have ethanol?
good question.
Oh man, you deserve a medal for this. I had to subscribe for the sheer effort you put into this test even though I don't believe in pre-mixed fuels. They are a waste of money IMO because the same can be achieved with ethanol-free gas and quality 2-cycle oil.
Just came across this video and you really went above and beyond!! Best video on canned gas ever. I’d have expected VP to look cleaner as that’s all that they do. I’ve tried Tru Fuel in my new string trimmer and it was horrible. Lacked power and was slow to rev up. Went back to pump gas and Bel Ray oil like I’ve used in all of my 2 strokes for 30 plus years. Runs like a top now. Thank you for doing this video!
Will the Husqvarna XP+ 110-fl oz 50:01:00 Ethanol Free Pre-blended 2-cycle Fuel work with my Husqvarna 150bt backpack blower and my Husqvarna Heavy Duty Chainsaw 440?
This was very informative, would have loved to see the 40:1 test. The stihl non ethanol premix as it compared to ethanol fuel comment really hit me. Thanks
Wondering if you checked the timing on the meteor cylinders? Have used several on ms460 and there seem to be quiet a difference from cylinder to cylinder?
Chainsaws may only have a 7 to 1 compression ratio, but I've noticed a huge difference from running 87 octane to 93. The 93 just seems to make it run smoother all around, especially when it's warm out and the saw starts getting a little hotter than normal. Weird shit.
How did the Echo Red Armor do? I saw the short video but never the results.
I’ve only had experience with the TruFuel, and the Husqvarna Pre mix, and have had good luck with the Husqvarna. This fuel setup is so expensive, but like my local Shop Tech says, if the saw, trimmer, whatever has infrequent use, it’s better than pump gas and oil mix.
A Stihl Dealer told me long long time ago, when mixing pump gas, go with the high octane. He went to some Fuel School training, so I figured he knew what he was talking about. I don’t think it makes much difference with all these pre mix brands, like you all said. I only use Ethanol free (supposedly) from my local gas and go store, to mix 50:1. Have not had any issues. I use the Husqvarna XP oil. My little 345 is coming up on 14 years, and still going!
I gotta say, that Stihl and bar combo looks sweet, and sounds and runs sweet! Your saw skills are good! I think it ran a little better with the Husky Premix? 🤔 😂 Again, appreciate the effort to make this video! Peace! 👍✌🏻🇺🇸
I've always had good results with the Husqvarna pre-mix. Plus I love the smell. Always has a new Husky tool smell lol. I think his saw ran best on it too
I only saw the spark plug after Stihl gas, what did the rest look like?
I only run these canned fuels for the last tank of the season. They’re all really good but too expensive to use a lot of.
Compare want the different fuels are made of , are they similar or completely different . And do they smell the same .
Nice job fellows. I always wondered about the differences (and if there really was a difference) between these pre-mixed fuels. Thanks for the information.
Holy Moly... Now that's a comparison test! Great Job! You went all out on this one. Looking for the 40:1 video.
Very good testing. Only thing I didn't see was each plug after running.
Pretty interesting video. Thanks for going through the trouble to make it. Some of us are really interested in issues like this in order to ensure the performance of our saws and their longevity. I wonder did you do a break inperiod of any sort each time you switched cylinder and piston? Maybe I’m a little paranoid but I always do a break-in. When I rebuild a saw I run it at 40:1 on the first three tanks to break it in. Maybe it’s not necessary, but I like my stuff to last as long as it possibly can.
I run 40:1 all the time with 93 pump octane, with a synthetic 2 stroke oil and a little bit of marine gas preservative. Seems to do pretty good.
@@augustreil tell me! what does marine gas preservative mean???
These are the videos I LOVE to see!!!!
: )
Excellent review!
Now you have me thinking about my pump-gas plans..
there will be more tests this summer :)
good Video
how about the Smell of Husvarna and Stihl Cleaner Burning than True Fuel /VP Fuel ?
will be Running Either 40:1 or 50:1 on a LAWN Boy 10601
In EU there's Aspen 2T mix. Cost 25 bucks per 5 liter. Mostly i add some extra Castrol A747 oil to it. 50 :1 is too hot. 40:1 im using in my 270 and 441. Marine fuel is rare to get here. Bio ethanol in regular fuel is bad for saws.
Bio diesel is killing a ton of tractors here in the U.S I've heard.
Very interesting test!
Thank you!
Some notes that I've found out during years: I'm from europe, and here I usually buy 100 octane premium pump gas with 10%Ethanol in it. Not the octane is making me buy that gas, but the aditives that it has. I get a more clean burn with that gas as I would use a regular 95 octane pump gas.
For the las year I used in my brushcutter that premium gas and Stihl Hp Ultra at 40:1. Very low carbon build up on the exhaust port(on the main flow starts to build up), the piston has build up on it, just as you showed us in this video and the combustion chamber has also little build up.
All the best and a Happy New Year!
thanks!
Great comparison!! Thanks for all the work that went into it! Did you ever show the findings of the 40:1 test ypu talked about at the end? Thanks!
Not sure. I've got some footage not sure if it was 40:1 or another brand. I should make a new vid with the added footage.
@@Redbull661 awesome, always enjoy the content!!
Just found this. Great info. I didn’t see where anyone asked what chain your using for your 661. Thanks for responding if you find this.
You forgot the Echo canned fuel! Also, have you ever comparatively done oils? I’d like to see Amsoil saber VS the rest. 50:1 and/or even the recommended 100:1.....very interested in that because I’m a dealer. I could even hook you up if you let me know.
Well dustin why don't you spend your own money and make a video of your own tests? I doubt your gunna spend the money and time buying 2 different cylinder jugs and piston and 4 cans of the fuel plus your time..
Gino Gallegos probably because Red Bull could be way better at making videos than he is. Also he offered to send him product to help support his channel.
I switched over to Amsoil a year ago and that is all I use in all my 2 stroke engines. I buy 100% 87 octane gas and mix 50:1. I would pay for the piston and cylinder just to see the amount of oil down in the crankcase if it was mixed the way I mix. Amsoil says you can go down to 100:1 for 50:1, but I'm not interested in seeing that ratio.
I used the Tru Fuel in my weed eater and chain saw. After using it for a month I had trouble in both
Pieces of equipment with residue build up which created starting problems. Had to have the carbs cleaned,.
Went back to mixing my own fuel. No more problems.
thanks for the feedback.
I just went to.buy a small can of True Fuel for my Stihl chainsaw, put it on and now I'm starting to notice that I'm having problems. Although it doesn't smell and is less smokey, it doesn't run as smooth and it just stops if I leave to iddle.
Why's the top of the piston so much dirtier for the Sthil? Other than that I like to use it.
Good comparison ...however my concern is the build up on the top of the piston. Strange how Stihl had the cleanest bore and exhaust outlet but the dirtiest piston.
i agree.
Great demonstration. All that effort ut in. coulda used a brighter flashlight though tk get a better look. Top of piston looks best on the VP though
Wow I don’t have anything to say that hasn’t been said already, but you deserve all the comments you get.That was awesome ,we appreciate it.
The piston from the moto mix is the dirtiest piston out of the 4, is that cause you ran more tanks of it than the other 3? You were also looking at the amount of oil in the crankcase, is more oil better or worse? I prefer the VP MIX and run the 40:1 in all my saws.
I always add Seafoam to any 2 stroke fuel even that premixed. I let my little echo sit and warm up for 5 minutes just idling.
Marvel mystery oil is better. can use it in the gas and oil
@@leadnsteel1428 Have you had success adding Marvel Mystery Oil to a pre-mixed 2-stroke fuel?
Have you seen Sunoco race fuel came out with some pre mix fuel of their own I'd love to see a part two with Sunoco fuel, Echo red armor, Walmart SEF 2 stroke, and Super S super-fuel. Other than the red armor there's absolutely nothing on most of those other pre mix fuels. It makes you wonder if $4 a can gas could be as good as $13 a can gas, or if either of them are as good as regular old gas & oil
i was using tru fuel but i started using my saws too much for cost. i buy the ethanol free stuff and mix my own and mix in 1 gal can. i liked seeing all the pistons and jugs afterwards. i think the biggest thing really is shelf life and having to drain the gas if saw sits for anytime. i watched one guy using stabill and the gas was trash. i saw this in my sisters mower that wouldnt start. i drained gas in a jug and then later poured some out and tried to light. would not light at all and it had stabil in it. i think all that stuff is crap after this and will not use. i just keep small quanity of gas and mix small amounts as needed
interesting.
I think Project Farm or someone did a test with gas preservatives and came to the same conclusion, that they were junk. I think the best thing is, if you know that any tool is gonna be stored for a while is, run some 2 stroke mix/ethanol free gas through it, until it stalls and hope for the best ?
I'm going to order a knock off ms660 the blue Chinese 90cc saw what would you recommend running for break in and then after ? also would you change the exhaust on it ?
Man if you use a chain saw all the time and you bought 20.00 dollar plus fuel just to keep your saw running longer is ok. But you spend so much money on the fuel you could save that money and just buy a new saw. You would spend hundreds of dollars just buying great fuel. Don’t add up. Great video hats off to you! Buy non ethanol and you good quality oils to mix with.
I would like to add this: those fuels you tested are great and no doubt would not gum up a carburetor when you store your your equipment. They definitely have a place. And if you can afford the best then why not.
I agree but if the saw performs like crap on the cheap fuel, that might just drive me crazy !
Agreed. Someone further up the comments suggested that you could also use regular gasoline during the season and just switch to canned fuel for the last couple of fills before storing the machinery. However in Sweden I think they mandate the use of alkylated fuel (Aspen) if you have employees (Health & Safety legislation). Sweden is heavy on the liberal attitudes.
Hi fella from Norway!!
Just got question to you.Ive bought in Norway a brand new Stihl 018 from 2000 year ,never used.what kind of oil would you use to this chainsaw?ratio?
Many thanks
Hi One of your subscribers in Melbourne Australia,I use stihl hp ultra oil at 50:1 in my 2 stroke husqvarna chainsaw is this okay?Regards
Should be ok, I switched to Castrol power 1 racing 2t as it is much cheaper. What model saw have you got?
if I were forced to run ultra I'd run it 45:1. Not as much oil as 40:1 which I'd like but I personally don't think it burns clean at 40:1. 50:1 for me isn't enough oil with conventional gas. So 45:1 would be a nice compromise. I like mobil 1 2t which you should be able to get?...I can't get it here anymore but I see it on ebay over seas. Also like Schaeffer's 9000 and 7000. Honda HP2. Motul 800 OFF ROAD.
Dick Springfield I have the husqvarna 440 e series I l for farm use thanks
Redbull661 Redbull 661 thanks for your feedback I was told by a Stihl dealer to use this as he told me it being full synthetic is the best oil for the engine
Chainsaws and science. Thank you for your videos. This is a top notch channel.
Usually I don't write any comments on UA-cam, but thank you for a hell of a job you've done and shared with us. I do my own premixes and I'm working with Husky, Stihl and Oregon oils. My premix consumption is approx. 15 liters (4 galons) per week. So this was quite informative for me when you showed the oiling difference between Husky and Stihl oils. Thank you once again and greetings from Finland, EU.
I would prefer mobil 1 or motul 800 off rd over these. This is just canned gas. It's been my experience the oils in these canned gases do not work as well with gas you buy at the pump/gas station.
@@Redbull661 Thanks mate, roger that.
Wow, this really took some time. I might have missed this but was the air filter clean with each cylinder change? Thanks so much for this video. Very interesting but not surprised with the Stihl fuel.
Excellent comparison! Hope you both had a very Merry Christmas!
thank you. same to you!
All these higly pure fuels are in fact same type(alkylated). Just simply the best for small engines (and especially for winterizing them). Never had any kind of fuel related issues with it or decrease of power. Many seasons and long periods of sitting wasn't an issue. Sadly it's expensive.
Agreed, but @chickanic definitely found issues with Trufuel in her Small Engine Workshop that I've never seen having used Aspen Fuel in the UK for a long time. I thought that they must be nearly the same, but maybe not, judging by this video.
yes, Trufuel and VPfuel are not alkylated(synthetic) but highly purified
Just for your own reference try some canned Echo Red Armor fuel sometime, it smells good and from what I hear Red Armor is great oil.
my zip code is 54016 - do you know where to buy it?
Love the echo love the smell lol. Saw runs very good. Cs590 bad saw!! Love it
I broke my 620p in on it. The smell reminds me of race fuel. The saws seem to love it.
Amazon ?
I purchase from farm store local or my echo dealer
This is absolutely amazing results!! I use VP 4cycle fuel and full synthetic oil and mix myself. I do agree with you on the smells VP fuel in my opinion isn't that bad of a smell. I've been running my equipment this way for a long time. I was using Tru-Fuel, but started using VP and like it much better than Tru- fuel. Fantastic job on these comparisons. This must have taken a long time and cost alot to do?? I greatly appreciate you doing this video. Wish I'd have seen it when you first posted it. You got another sub good Sir
thanks!
What bar oil do you use in the winter months?
I wanted to search for this 10 months ago...good thing I waited. Love how VP Racing lumps all the hydrocabons together on the SDS so they don't have to list hazards individually, unlike TruFuel.
Does a 50:1 ratio work for the 40:1 and even the 32:1 or if they exist other ratios likes 16:1 or 8:1?
Did you end up doing the 40:1 test? I can't find it.
I have found that my saws run better on an octane around 90. Running 87 they definitely do not perform as well. Similarly we tried 100 octane and that did not produce the best results either.
troytreeguy I find anything in the 80’s it starts to run to hot and then come the issues of it cutting out and trouble restarting again.
THANK YOU for the time you put into this stuff. Really appreciate it and cool to see the data
thank you sir
What happened to the results for the Tru-Fuel 40:1 ?? Also Echo Red Armor? Still waiting 3 years later...
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
What happened to the Red Armor oil test ?
Poulans I’ve found out like the very high octane. Like the vp, last time I used the tru or a mix I make with 93 from pump it just bogs down and doesn’t seem to get the max rpm
I have run a Stihl MS441C for 20 years using pump gas and TSC 2 cycle oil, with no problems. I also add StaBil to each tank, and I have not had to dump the tank in the off season. BTW, where is the PPE? And why do so many sawyers play with the throttle?
Yea this video was expensive. Thanks for doing it. Didn't expect the cleanliness from the motomix.
what about the black marking on top of piston, some have worse than others. concern?
My small engine mechanic said my chainsaw had straight gas in my Husqvarna 440. Which I used the True-flow 50:1 gas. It ran rough then wouldn't start after a few cursed pulls. The cylinder walls were scored. I think the saw is ruined.
Did you note when was the fuel made? There should be a production date on all of the cans, and I have found that some fuel can be as much as 6 months old before it is even purchased. Your tear down and visual inspection shows the efficiency of combustion, and I wonder whether the age of the fuel makes a difference. I would have liked to see how much power the saw makes running on each fuel, as for me, that's probably the biggest reason to use premium fuel over pump gas. And if power is not important, then the only other reason to use this fuel is to hopefully to avoid the inconsistency of pump gas and the occasional issues associated with pump gas.
Fantastic Video. Thank you. Have you tried a similar video between premix, E10/E15 and EO? I'm wondering if there is a difference to using E0 with Husqvarna XP oil or Husqvarna premix. Thanks again for the great video.
Great video. I’ve had great luck with Echo and VP premixed fuel.
This video took so much effort. Thank u so much.
NOT Autotune. M-Tronic!! Yes it does the same thing but just call it an ECU so we dont confuse people. Nice job on the test.
You gonna sell any of those cylinders?
Call me crazy but in terms of burning I believe in general slower is hotter and hotter is cleaner(carbon and excess oil etc.) ?so the higher the octane the slower the burn and in turn a hotter cleaner burn of the air fuel mixture...I haven't tested Temps between fuels in a test before....but am I right with train of thought?
Great video, appreciate the extra effort you go thru to make these videos
thanks
What are your thoughts on using Maxima 927 or Maxima K2 premix oils?
I just got my Stihl saw bavk from the Stihl saw shop. My saw would not start after running it to cut some poles last month. I was using True Fuel. The Stihl shop said True Fuel gunked up the Stihl carb and tank breather. Could this be the True Fuel or the finique Stihl carb?
Fantastic, what a Time and Money investment, thank you so much ..!!
Great job. That's a small fortune in top ends just for this video! Thanks for your efforts 😎👍
Awesome vid!! Quick story about Stijl ultra. Got a hand me down trimmer and I removed the muffler to inspect and the piston was black. I ran mixed Stijl ultra not the pre mix for like three weekends worth of sacking and inspected the exhaust side of the piston again and The ultra completely cleaned the skirt like new almost.
thanks!