Hi Doug. Always a good idea to learn as much as possible about all things AmateurRadio. While growing up in Augusta, my dad also gave me a Weller pistol soldering gun. But it wasn’t until my first job out of college that I learned how to install connectors onto different types of coax. I still have it and I still use it! 73…Rob
Curt, the one I use is a dual-heat model that is 100W or 140W. It has a button with two positions. I use the 140W position. The idea is to heat the connector quickly and get the job done. Lesser power soldering irons take too long and they can damage the insulation in the PL-259, especially one with plastic insulation. The AMPHENOL connectors are a higher quality. They can take the heat for a longer period of time. The soldering gun we used for Motorola installations was 350W. That is even better. The idea is to heat the connector quickly, apply the solder, and let it cool. Too little heat for too long can damage the coax dielectric. My 140W iron is a compromise. 73, Doug
@@n4hnhradio thanks for confirming. Looks like I'm set as my old craftsman soldering gun is a 100W/140W model. Hear you on AMPHENOL too! Thanks! Looking forward to the video to see what your techniques are.
My dad bought the Weller 100/140W soldering gun for me when I was just getting into radio, during my early teens. It’s the one in the video. This video is an excerpt from the one I made when I replaced the coax for my ZS6BKW with LMR-400. That video is at this link: ua-cam.com/video/rR32rArlOts/v-deo.html 73, Doug
@@n4hnhradio I remember that video now! I must have skipped over the install of the PL-259. I did pick up a great tip, I've never pre-tinned the shield or center conductor. I'll have to do that on my next one. I'd also love to see how you do RG-8X PL-259's! Dealing with the shield and inserts is a bit different than RG8/RG213/LMR400.
@kb9jqu For RG8X, RG-58, and RG-59, I slide the reducer onto the coax first and trim the outer insulation. I then fold the shield back over the reducer and I tin the shield. Next, I trim the dielectric off the center conductor and tin the center conductor. I don't trim the dielectric too close to the shield. I leave 1/16 to 1/8 inch of dielectric. Next, I screw the PL-259 onto the reducer and tighten them together. It is important to tighten them together before applying the solder to the shield holes and the center conductor, to avoid twisting the wires. Finally, I apply the solder to the shield holes and the center conductor, just as I do for RG-8, RG-213, or LMR-400. Note that I use the same method for RG-58 and RG-59 size coax and reducers. 73, Doug
I have that same Weller Iron, it just died on me. I bought a new one, and the wattage is reversed on the trigger. the higher wattage is a half press and low is all the way in. What a pain!!!
Then there are thousands of gooy dielectrics around the US, soldered by Motorola technicians. No, the key is in using a high power soldering iron. It heats the immediate area quickly. I have taken these apart, to re-use a PL-259, and the dielectric was just fine. But you go ahead and do it your way.
@@n4hnhradio maybe with the solid polyethylene.. but that gas injected foam goos right up. It will resolidify into a hard plastic and work for the most part. But then again I don’t think Motorola uses old connector specs from the 1930s.
You might want to check out a video by Mr Carlson's lab ua-cam.com/video/79uD6XwBg5E/v-deo.html Not for soldering, you know how to do that, check out the modification of the soldering gun tip. I find it works very well for me. Lots of heat very fast! It works much better, for me at least, for soldering stuff that needs lots of heat. Thanks for another very fine video! I greatly appreciate your videos on the FTDX10 and the FT-891!
Nice to see someone soldering the shield. Not many do.
Always. It’s a habit from my Motorola days. 73, de N4HNH
Hi Doug. Always a good idea to learn as much as possible about all things AmateurRadio. While growing up in Augusta, my dad also gave me a Weller pistol soldering gun. But it wasn’t until my first job out of college that I learned how to install connectors onto different types of coax. I still have it and I still use it! 73…Rob
Yes, Robert, mine is over 50 years old and still works. I have been able to order replacement tips from RadioShack.com.
73, Doug
I’ve never been able to hand tighten the barrel. I use a homemade tool and a vice.
Interesting…
Doug how hot of a soldering iron/gun do you need to do this right?
Curt, the one I use is a dual-heat model that is 100W or 140W. It has a button with two positions. I use the 140W position. The idea is to heat the connector quickly and get the job done. Lesser power soldering irons take too long and they can damage the insulation in the PL-259, especially one with plastic insulation. The AMPHENOL connectors are a higher quality. They can take the heat for a longer period of time.
The soldering gun we used for Motorola installations was 350W. That is even better. The idea is to heat the connector quickly, apply the solder, and let it cool. Too little heat for too long can damage the coax dielectric. My 140W iron is a compromise.
73, Doug
@@n4hnhradio thanks for confirming. Looks like I'm set as my old craftsman soldering gun is a 100W/140W model. Hear you on AMPHENOL too! Thanks! Looking forward to the video to see what your techniques are.
My dad bought the Weller 100/140W soldering gun for me when I was just getting into radio, during my early teens. It’s the one in the video. This video is an excerpt from the one I made when I replaced the coax for my ZS6BKW with LMR-400. That video is at this link: ua-cam.com/video/rR32rArlOts/v-deo.html
73, Doug
@@n4hnhradio I remember that video now! I must have skipped over the install of the PL-259. I did pick up a great tip, I've never pre-tinned the shield or center conductor. I'll have to do that on my next one. I'd also love to see how you do RG-8X PL-259's! Dealing with the shield and inserts is a bit different than RG8/RG213/LMR400.
@kb9jqu For RG8X, RG-58, and RG-59, I slide the reducer onto the coax first and trim the outer insulation. I then fold the shield back over the reducer and I tin the shield. Next, I trim the dielectric off the center conductor and tin the center conductor. I don't trim the dielectric too close to the shield. I leave 1/16 to 1/8 inch of dielectric. Next, I screw the PL-259 onto the reducer and tighten them together. It is important to tighten them together before applying the solder to the shield holes and the center conductor, to avoid twisting the wires. Finally, I apply the solder to the shield holes and the center conductor, just as I do for RG-8, RG-213, or LMR-400.
Note that I use the same method for RG-58 and RG-59 size coax and reducers.
73, Doug
I have that same Weller Iron, it just died on me. I bought a new one, and the wattage is reversed on the trigger. the higher wattage is a half press and low is all the way in. What a pain!!!
Oh wow! We are all accustomed to the other. It makes more sense.
That center insulator turned into a roasted marshmallow goo just from tinning the center wire
Then there are thousands of gooy dielectrics around the US, soldered by Motorola technicians. No, the key is in using a high power soldering iron. It heats the immediate area quickly. I have taken these apart, to re-use a PL-259, and the dielectric was just fine. But you go ahead and do it your way.
@@n4hnhradio maybe with the solid polyethylene.. but that gas injected foam goos right up. It will resolidify into a hard plastic and work for the most part. But then again I don’t think Motorola uses old connector specs from the 1930s.
You might want to check out a video by Mr Carlson's lab ua-cam.com/video/79uD6XwBg5E/v-deo.html Not for soldering, you know how to do that, check out the modification of the soldering gun tip. I find it works very well for me. Lots of heat very fast! It works much better, for me at least, for soldering stuff that needs lots of heat.
Thanks for another very fine video! I greatly appreciate your videos on the FTDX10 and the FT-891!
Useless video. Most of it was off camera.
This is not the channel you are looking for.