Kevin, I would love to go on the Power Tour. I have done it many times before. Since September, I have been in Vanderbilt Hospital 33 Days plus Doctor Visits. So, I haven't worked since before that. I'm going to try to come to the Nashville Superspeedway. For me to add Memphis, that would add over $300 to my expense. So, I'll probably come to Nashville Stop. I enjoy reading your Emails . Take care, Stan
Ok, something is wrong with the math here. Using the A body spindles you could use the common factory rotor that is just under 11 inches with 14 inch wheels. Not "all" 14 inch wheels.(not 1960's steel wheels) But, say 14 inch Mopar Rallyes or Road Wheels. Or, using the rotor that is just under 12 inches, from cars like a Cordoba or R body, use 15 inch wheels. This kit is giving the smaller 11 inch rotor but requiring the bigger 15 inch wheel.
Take into account the size of the caliper. The larger 4-piston caliper and the slotted 11" rotors give the kit plenty of room for most all stock and aftermarket 15" wheels. Again, consider that they have to make something that will satisfy Mopar, Ford and Chevy goons as well. :)
@@moparconnection So, there is presumably a better caliper but a lesser rotor. Sounds like a wash to me. Most tests show that no aftermarket brakes equal the factory setup, size being kept constant. I'm sure you remember that the pre 1969 disc brake cars had 4 piston fixed calipers and they were replaced by single piston floating calipers. 4 chances to leak vs one, but the floating caliper had to be cheaper to buy, too.
You’re kidding, right? The factory rotor is garbage. The modern rotors are drilled, directionally slotted and made from superior materials. Better heat dispersion, better dust scavenging and less fade. What Mopar offered at the time was decent; this is a leap waaay ahead.
@@moparconnection Not kidding. Perhaps my info is old. But, the aftermarket brakes were always sold as "for racing only" and they never claimed to stop better. They claimed to weigh less and not drag like a floating caliper. Slots and holes were tested and found to not improve when added to the same rotor. Factory rotors were thicker with vents in the middle of two friction surfaces. Some of the racing rotors were just one thin surface. Car magazines carried ads for the aftermarket stuff, so they didn't want to do back to back tests, usually. But when they tested objectively, it didn't cut it. Plenty of post of guys that bought aftermarket brakes and felt their cars were not safe and went back to factory. Again, this may be old obsolete info from an old guy.Those rotors look ok to me.
Huh. Being in publishing since 2004 (originally with Hot Rod, then moving on to Mopar Muscle) all of the skid pad testing have proven demonstrably better in weigh, brake fade and overall stopping power than stock components. I'm curious what testing your referencing, because none of it lines up with the data we've collected.
Why don't you do a before and after braking distance comparison as well? See if the quarter inch rotor size upgrade and 4 piston calipers are worth the money. I put drilled slotted R body rotors on my A body spindles.
I assume you mean the almost 12 inch Rotors from the R body. That's what I want to do on my 70 GTX, even though it has massive 11 x 3 drum brakes on it already that can slam you back really hard. My car buddies with me at the junkyard were wondering why I got so excited about caliper adapters and rotor off of a Cordoba with heavy duty braking option. I already have 74 A body spindles and the smaller rotors.
While the rotor size certainly plays a factor in fitment, the caliper size is also a concern when it comes to fitment. This kit was Baer’s solution for all classic 15” applications, not just Mopars.
Got to love free stuff, however you might want to actually install and use the stuff before you go on and on about how great it all is. Not saying it isn't great but this is just an infomercial for Baer brakes. Before you blast me, I am not hating on you or Baer as they make some great products but this would have been much better if you could have provided some insight as to the installation and how well it worked. Its not a bad kit for $1300, probably one of the better ones.
No “blasting” at all! We’ve installed Baer discs on a handful of cars, including our auto cross Dart “Orange Crush” (which I mentioned in the video). I’m pretty familiar with their products - that’s why I’m so excited to put them on the Charger.
@@moparconnection Well the video did get me to look at Baer brakes... I am building a 71 Charger and am looking at a variety of options. The SSR-4 kit looks decent and I see why you stuck with the rear drums over their disc kit. In my case the car is completely blown apart (bought it that way) so its pretty much a blank canvas. Putting a 5.7 crate engine with a TKX behind it and I was going to fabricate the braking system using GT500 stuff (which I bought) but am not rethinking it mainly because I would like to use the 15" steel wheels over going to 17's.
You should weigh the new brakes vs the old brakes. Good looking parts 😳 👍🏻👍🏻🤘🏻
Will do!
Kevin, I would love to go on the Power Tour. I have done it many times before. Since September, I have been in Vanderbilt Hospital 33 Days plus Doctor Visits. So, I haven't worked since before that. I'm going to try to come to the Nashville Superspeedway. For me to add Memphis, that would add over $300 to my expense. So, I'll probably come to Nashville Stop. I enjoy reading your Emails . Take care, Stan
Oh man! Sorry to hear that! Be well!
Ok, something is wrong with the math here. Using the A body spindles you could use the common factory rotor that is just under 11 inches with 14 inch wheels. Not "all" 14 inch wheels.(not 1960's steel wheels) But, say 14 inch Mopar Rallyes or Road Wheels. Or, using the rotor that is just under 12 inches, from cars like a Cordoba or R body, use 15 inch wheels.
This kit is giving the smaller 11 inch rotor but requiring the bigger 15 inch wheel.
Take into account the size of the caliper. The larger 4-piston caliper and the slotted 11" rotors give the kit plenty of room for most all stock and aftermarket 15" wheels. Again, consider that they have to make something that will satisfy Mopar, Ford and Chevy goons as well. :)
@@moparconnection So, there is presumably a better caliper but a lesser rotor. Sounds like a wash to me.
Most tests show that no aftermarket brakes equal the factory setup, size being kept constant.
I'm sure you remember that the pre 1969 disc brake cars had 4 piston fixed calipers and they were replaced by single piston floating calipers. 4 chances to leak vs one, but the floating caliper had to be cheaper to buy, too.
You’re kidding, right? The factory rotor is garbage. The modern rotors are drilled, directionally slotted and made from superior materials. Better heat dispersion, better dust scavenging and less fade. What Mopar offered at the time was decent; this is a leap waaay ahead.
@@moparconnection Not kidding. Perhaps my info is old. But, the aftermarket brakes were always sold as "for racing only" and they never claimed to stop better. They claimed to weigh less and not drag like a floating caliper. Slots and holes were tested and found to not improve when added to the same rotor. Factory rotors were thicker with vents in the middle of two friction surfaces. Some of the racing rotors were just one thin surface.
Car magazines carried ads for the aftermarket stuff, so they didn't want to do back to back tests, usually. But when they tested objectively, it didn't cut it. Plenty of post of guys that bought aftermarket brakes and felt their cars were not safe and went back to factory.
Again, this may be old obsolete info from an old guy.Those rotors look ok to me.
Huh. Being in publishing since 2004 (originally with Hot Rod, then moving on to Mopar Muscle) all of the skid pad testing have proven demonstrably better in weigh, brake fade and overall stopping power than stock components. I'm curious what testing your referencing, because none of it lines up with the data we've collected.
Why don't you do a before and after braking distance comparison as well? See if the quarter inch rotor size upgrade and 4 piston calipers are worth the money. I put drilled slotted R body rotors on my A body spindles.
That’s the plan!
I assume you mean the almost 12 inch Rotors from the R body. That's what I want to do on my 70 GTX, even though it has massive 11 x 3 drum brakes on it already that can slam you back really hard. My car buddies with me at the junkyard were wondering why I got so excited about caliper adapters and rotor off of a Cordoba with heavy duty braking option. I already have 74 A body spindles and the smaller rotors.
Yes the almost 12 inch rotors. My 11 by 3 drums were fine but after 3 or 4 quarter mile runs there was serious brake fade.
@@robertairosus8424 That is the total number of quarter mile runs I did over a lifetime.
Will that kit work with 11.75" discs ? 11" discs are GM dimensions. So it would be good to go with the original Mopar 11.75 disc size.
While the rotor size certainly plays a factor in fitment, the caliper size is also a concern when it comes to fitment. This kit was Baer’s solution for all classic 15” applications, not just Mopars.
Got to love free stuff, however you might want to actually install and use the stuff before you go on and on about how great it all is. Not saying it isn't great but this is just an infomercial for Baer brakes. Before you blast me, I am not hating on you or Baer as they make some great products but this would have been much better if you could have provided some insight as to the installation and how well it worked. Its not a bad kit for $1300, probably one of the better ones.
No “blasting” at all! We’ve installed Baer discs on a handful of cars, including our auto cross Dart “Orange Crush” (which I mentioned in the video). I’m pretty familiar with their products - that’s why I’m so excited to put them on the Charger.
@@moparconnection Well the video did get me to look at Baer brakes... I am building a 71 Charger and am looking at a variety of options. The SSR-4 kit looks decent and I see why you stuck with the rear drums over their disc kit. In my case the car is completely blown apart (bought it that way) so its pretty much a blank canvas. Putting a 5.7 crate engine with a TKX behind it and I was going to fabricate the braking system using GT500 stuff (which I bought) but am not rethinking it mainly because I would like to use the 15" steel wheels over going to 17's.
That's why the SS4+ kit was a great choice. Modern rotors and calipers but they fit 15" rims.