How to Repair Drywall Damage After Baseboards Were Removed
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2015
- I was called to a home where these folks were getting new tile flooring and they did the do it yourself (diy) baseboard removal themselves before the flooring was going to be put in. Unfortunately they forgot to or didn't know to take a razor knife and score the top of the baseboard caulk where the baseboard meets the wall. If you don't do that you're going to tear the paper on the drywall.
Chances are if you're watching this video you might have already torn the paper on the drywall when you removed your baseboards.
So I'm going to show you how to repair these areas and get it done right.
Step one, Remove all of the loose paper and the
remaining caulk.
Step two, Apply a product called Gardz Problem Surface Sealer with a brush or roller.
Step three, Apply joint compound to the
damaged areas that you primed with the Gardz. Let dry.
Step four, Apply second coat of joint compound to the area. Let dry and lightly sand. (If needed apply a third coat of joint compound. Let dry and lightly sand that
coat).
Step five, Use a quality interior primer and paint.
Good luck!
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Please watch: "How to skim coat a wall in less then 10 minutes | Diy Drywall Tips and Tricks"
• How to skim coat a wal...
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I just took some old chair railing out and this video has been so helpful. Thank you!
Admire your skill in applying the compound. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Thank you so much for the video.Was so helpful to fix my bathroom scratches after wall paper removing.Thanks Again !
Thank you! I have a seat in my bay windown that my dogs have distroyed. patching and sanding was not working as some spots were down the papers. Cannot wait to give this a try
Good luck. Let me know if you run into any questions along the way.👍🏻😎
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for to repair my peeled wall in a hall way. The Gardz sealer was the missing step as I felt that mudding and or priming directly over the brown paper would not make sense.
Keisy, Glad my video could help you with your wall repairs! Be sure to Subscribe to my Channel to keep up with all my of my latest drywall repair videos Here-> ua-cam.com/users/PeckDrywallPainting Take care, -Paul
You don’t need the sealer you’re good
@@kryptdoge3900 you def need a sealer or primer over exposed paper before applying joint compound. The water from the compound will make the paper bubble
this is the kind of video i need! i just diy'd my drywall when taking out baseboards
Good luck! Let me know if you run into any questions along the way. 👍🏻🤓
Thanks for the pointer. Much appreciated.
Right on Glendon!💥👊🏻 Thanks so much for watching and subscribing man!😎 -Paul
Exactly what I needed! Thank you!
Awesome! Glad I could help. Be sure to subscribe to my Channel to keep up with all of my latest videos.Here-> ua-cam.com/users/PeckDrywallPainting Take care, -Paul
Exactly what I was searching for thanks so much
+cathy dominique That's awesome Cathy! 👏🏻 i'm glad my drywall repair video could help you out. Thanks for your feedback, -Paul
I replicated this technique last night and it worked great, thanks! One question I had was- is it super important to make sure the wall to joint compound area is perfectly flat and plumb once the joint compound is sanded down? I'm worried my wall angles in a little bit where the damage was. Will my baseboard be pretty forgiving?
if the wall had texture: would you apply the guards, skim coat, and then texture? or just go straight to texturing after guards
What would cause blistering in the mud AFTER sanding + sealing with Guardz?
thanks for helping ... seems like mindless work but there are plenty of ways to fuck it up, and id be sure to find them.
Thanks kindly - appreciate this tutorial!!
So glad my video was helpful Sheila!👍🏻 Thank you for watching and commenting!😎 -Paul
Thank you! This is exactly what happened and what I needed! Subbed to your channel. I’m a new homeowner & usually not a DYIr by any means but does it matter what type of “joint compound” you use?
Paul HELP! I just bought a condo and removed the wallpaper but the glue is coming off in tiny pieces! No matter the wallpaper diy tricks I try, it just won’t budge. Should I use Gardz and then just skim coat it? What would you do??
What do you do if there is sticky, gummy adhesive residue?
This will work for the baseboard in the bathroom?
What are other products I can use other than Gardz? No one seems to sell it in the store around here. Also, what kind of joint compound should be used? I have some premixed all purpose from a previous contractor. Does that work? I want something that will take minimal sanding.
Hi Caitlin, That's bummer. You should be able to get another product called "Drywall Conditioner/Sealer" from a Sherwin Williams paint store that will work just as good. If you don't have an SW's by you most other paint stores probably have a similar drywall conditioner/sealer that's comparable. The premixed joint compound should work just fine. Since the bucket has already been open, I would maybe remove a little off of the top to avoid get any dried chunks of compound in the mud that you'll be using for your drywall repairs. Hope this helps and let me know if you have any more questions. Take care, -Paul
Great video, thx! Just one question: I noticed you didn't use a utility knife to cut around the edges of the tear after you removed the loose pieces. Is that step not necessary when using the Gardz product or do you recommend doing a fine cut around the perimeter of the tear before applying the sealer? Thanks
+Lorne Kelton Thank you. That 6" drywall knife I was using in the video is as sharp as a razor blade from years of use. So it basically peeled off all of the loose drywall skin nice and clean. So scoring with a razor knife wasn't necessary on this particular repair. But Yes, scoring similar types of drywall repairs couldn't hurt either. Great question! Take care, -Paul
I wondered about that, Paul. I understand that, as a pro, getting things done quickly must often be your priority (time is money). However, I've found that if I take a moment to lightly score just above the damaged areas, I can pull the loose paper off sideways (that is, parallel to the scores) and it comes off neatly at the scores. This minimizes the amount of repair necessary.
I got the same problem after installing laminate floor , and spend big effort to fix it with fillers and sanding and finally painting it , too much headache for small thing
I hear ya Abdul... at least the eyesore is gone with just a little extra effort!👍🏻 Thanks so much for watching and subscribing my friend!😎 -Paul
What a cry baby
When my handyman took off my baseboards after the carpet was removed,the wall behind the baseboards were messed up.He didnt cause the damage it was just the original builder job that left lots of small holes,crumbly drywall and even gaps in the existing drywall that buts up to the floor behind the baseboard. Couldnt see it til they were off and most likely wont see it once new baseboards are installed.But do I need to have him fill those gaps,holes,and terrible looking areas before the new baseboards in order to have a more stable flat wall to nail into or does it totally not matter? Thanks
Please answer this question. I am in the same boat
Same boat myself
Question regarding a related problem: The area of drywall directly behind the baseboard essentially fell apart; what was left pulled off very easily. What type of repair am I looking at?
Probably a few years late to the show but you'd need to score a straight line parallel to the floor, only as high up as needed. Then ideally use a drywall router, if it's a long run using that scored cut. Then cut drywall pieces to match that cut out opening. If you're lucky, baseboard can cover all of it to where basic drywall patching will get the job done. Otherwise, full taping and texturing will need done. Some folks take the lazy way and put in taller baseboard. Which works, unless someone later decides to go with shorter boards.
I’m considering installing laminate where my carpet is. My carpet cleaning contractor messed up so bad I never want another cleaner in my house. I’d like to lower the baseboards, as a second layer of subfloor is quite pricey and quarter round/kickplate won’t meet well at our door moulding base blocks. The difference is 6-7mm. Will this fix still work if some of the area you exposed is visible?
Same baseboards aren’t going back on. He soaked them and they’re now swollen garbage. The baseboard replacement has to be in-kind.
Wow! Sorry to hear this Jay... Yes, this fix will work for your situation. You may need to do a little more mud work.I would take a bright light and shine it on these areas when you think you’ve got it pretty good. Any imperfections will be clearly visible the bright light shining on it. Good luck and keep me posted on how this project goes for you. Take care, -Paul
One question Jay, have you already removed the baseboards? If not if you score the top edge with a razor knife where it meets the wall first you will not have nearest much preparing to do. Hope this helps, -Paul
You make this look so easy.. Haha. I am sure its harder. Question though, when you say joint compound your not meaning the spackle stuff I use to putty holes right? Are you using the stuff that comes in like a 1 or 2 gallon box? Thanks for the video!!
Same question--removed old brown coving and had to dig off hard, caked on brown globs. Can I fill the gouges with that pink stuff that turns pale when it's dry, then sand, prime and paint? It's just two empty, unused walls in a small kitchen. Thanks.
Hi A Castro, Thank you so much! Yes, I use joint compound not spackle. Joint compound comes in a little quart size canister or even in a 5 gallon bucket. You can get it at most of the big box stores. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Take care, -Paul
Hi DW, I like to stick with regular all-purpose joint compound. But you could do a tester on one of the holes with that pink spackle that turns a pale color when it’s dry and see if it’s going to hold up or not. I hope this helps. Take care, -Paul
Is there another sealer that would work? I’m having a hard time finding the gardz I’m stock!
Oil based Zinsser stain block and coat. Oil based killz will get the job done as well. The oil base will soak into the paper and give the mud and new paint something to bond to.
I removed my baseboards and didn't have peeling of the drywall like this, but the paint at the bottom (where the top of the baseboards was) is lifted from the wall as if I could lift it and start peeling the paint off the wall. Should I seal it with the Gardz, or is that not necessary?
Score it with a sharp blade in a razor knife right above where’re it’s lifting up. Then, I would prime that area and do a light skim.👍🏻 I hope this helps. -Paul
Same scenario but needs texture. What would I do?
What type of texture do you need to match Sean?
Paul Peck Um not to sure sir. It's basically the texture that and average house built in the early 2000 would come with. Sorry but I really don't know.
I know it's drywall with like a knock down texture I think
It is Mediterranean texture.
I have the perfect solution for matching knockdown texture on small patches. Watch this video- ua-cam.com/video/xE4PwYAxY3k/v-deo.html Let me know if this is similar to your texture. Because you can adjust how you apply the joint compound to match different sized knockdown textures.👍 -Paul
Paul Peck Well I believe I have orange peel texture. Thanks!
Do you need a respirator when sanding mud?
No
Hi Paul Peck, thanks a lot of making this video. Could you describe a little the technique you used to apply the joint compound? I seem to have trouble to apply spackle on my own walls evenly. I'm currently involved in a DIY project to repair some dry wall in my home; there's actually a section of the dry wall around where the baseboard used to be that has been fairly chipped into, do you have any recommendations for how to approach something like that?
+drinktea1 Thank you. What I try and do for those types of situations is just put a little joint compound only on half of the taping knife. Then wipe across the damaged area. Next I remove all of the remaining mud off of the knife and back into the mud pan. Now take your knife and go back of the mud you just applied trying to smooth out any ridges or voids., Try not to keep going over it to many times. Let dry > Sand > Repeat as needed.
I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. -Paul
That's for such a quick reply. My current situation is that some sections of the baseboard area has gone past the brown paper. Had it only be a small section, I was going to simply cut off any lose debris and dry wall crumbs, primer/sealer over it and then spackle. But, the dry wall in this case has caved in quite a bit, would applying several layers of spackle be an option still?
Oops, I meant to type Thanks*
drinktea1 Will the damaged drywall areas be hidden behind the baseboards once they are installed?
Hi Paul, yes they would be hidden behind the baseboards.
How do they fix the floor is the question
😂😂😂
Only thing I would say is to speed up the labouring on the edit. Most of us don't have to see everything.. I'm cutting out the rotten base plate and the bottom foot of the uprights an door frame frame on a non weight bearing drywall
Hi Bernard, I appreciate the feedback.👍🏻 When I was doing shorts videos people kept commenting they wanted to see more of process. So, its definitely a balance to keep everyone happy. Good luck on that repair project man! Thanks for watching and commenting! -Paul
Thanks for the video, my-nigga...
You have to explain details of everything you’re doing.
I try...😇
👍👍🤳😎