Why you should NEVER use a 10-10-10 balanced NPK fertilizer
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Learn to fertilize correctly with the right NPK. Don't waste money on a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer.
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Why you should NEVER use a 10-10-10 balanced NPK fertilizer
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Using 10 - 10-10 for years , plants grow very well and very satisfied.
You can eat very unhealty, smoke and drink for years and you will no see an effect. Get it?!
@@PM-wt3ye I don't get it...Can you explain?
@@soota6083They’re saying that while you do things that work for you, that’s not always the best solution aka healthy…
@@PM-wt3ye Do you get it?
Well.. you might be the 1 in a million person he's talking about. 😂
I've used multiple blends, for multiple applications, over the past 40+ years. Best all round results came from 10-10-10 in both the northeast and gulf coast. Compost and manure is the way to go, but not always practical.
10 10 10 works best for figs
As a gardener of many decades, I have great respect for Professor. This video, however, is not helpful to new gardeners. It is like saying one should never use salt in cooking because you are going to add too much salt and ruin everything. 10-10-10 is just a fertilizer that is clean, economic and high in P and K. It should not be the only fertilizer to use, but it is one of the best fertilizers for vegetables and flowers. I recommend 10-10-10 and its cousins (12-12-12, 19-19-19 and 21-21-21) to all my gardening friends. You can make whatever NPK you want by mixing a little 10-10-10 with 46-0-0, 0-0-60, 10-0-0 03 21-0-0. 10-10-10 is a must have for all serious gardeners. Hoard a few bags of 10-10-10 when it is on sale.
" but it is one of the best fertilizers for vegetables and flowers" - that is simply not true, for the reasons stated in the video.
Thank you sooooo much for sharing all of your impressive knowledge with us, Robert 🙏🏽
It's cheap stuff, probably why we ever started using it. Like our diet, balanced sounds so good, but we sure don't need equal amounts of anything. Peace.@@Gardenfundamentals1
3:24
I have a small Tulip Poplar tree and I found online that it needs a 10-10-10 slow-release fertilizer tablet. They're not easy to find that aren't $30+ that's so expensive. But Jobes plant sticks are 10-10-4
I have used 10-10-10 in my gardening for years. Never had any problems. Also when watering I use miracle grow liquid . My plants love it and My neighbors are always impressed.
My soil is generally low in all nutrients. I use 10-10-10 as a preplant fertilzer for field corn.The potash and phosphorus isn't needed at sidedressing so I use a nitrogen only fertilizer. Other vegetables generally get diammonium phosphate and potassium sulfate preplant, with a sidedressing of nitrogen if needed.
Most of garden also gets an inch or two of compost yearly. 1/4 is always planted in a cover crop.
UA-cam recommended this video to me again. It is interesting to see my own comments immediately after the release of this video almost a year ago, It is funny to see so many thumb-ups for my comment. Professor is a respected gardener, but he is clearly wrong on 10-10-10. It is one of the best fertilizers on the market. I will buy either 10-10-10, or 12-12-12, or 13-13-13, or 19-19-19, or 21-21-21, depending on the price (adjusted for NPK). All these fertilizers do is providing your plants with NPK. Nothing more, nothing less. No fertilizer, including 10-10-10, is balanced. You add or mix different fertilizers to make the nutrients balanced.
I've used 10-10-10 fertilizer for the last 30 years never had a problem
Triple 13 has served me well for decades.
You never had a problem with 10-10-10 because it is one of the best fertilizers money can buy 😀😀
How do you know that the excess phosphorus has not polluted local lakes and rivers?
Pho’s doesn’t leach like nitrogen. If it’s runoff yes it can but if it’s in the ground it won’t
Yeah...no. I use it all the time. Beside a pond. No algae blooms. But you missed the fact that more lives in the soil using phosphate than just your plants. Learn chemistry and biology. Maybe you did but just forget. It happens to some folks @@Gardenfundamentals1
There are plenty of nutrients and minerals in every soil. The amount of soluble nutrients might be small, but if you have healthy bacteria and fungi in the soil, they will unlock those nutrients.
This fertilizer is awesome....10-10- 10 is gold!
There is an enormous amount of misinformation and/or suppression of valid information everywhere drowning out any source of simple, proven, rational and contemplative information, that it is beyond daunting for anyone trying to make sense of it all. Thank you for holding the line while giving us hope along w great gardening advice.
Yeah, because all these companies are trying to sell products that people don't need.
Because it's a part of the retail sector that creates trillions every year 🌍 🤑 & that's why like here in the UK ALL our rivers/streams for years now are Utterly disgusting Because our farmers ARE lazy ass fookers& GREEDY & JUMPED All on the chemical bandwagon years ago to produce faster growth in the EASIEST way possible & ALL that stuff for DECADES ran off into waterways & farmers etc DIDN'T GIVE A 💩 & KNEW the detrimental effects it was having on OUR countrysides 🌍
I go metal detecting & the amount of worms etc that I DON'T see is saddening to say the Very least ☹️😡
Happens here in our lake, we always get algal blooms in the summertime due to too much fertilizer run off some from commercial agriculture but majority from residential people trying to get their lawns as green as possible. I use a 16-16-16 from Walmart because it is cheap and last me a few years, in small amounts in my earthboxs and a little bit in my new potato beds that I rotate other than that I just us fish fertilizer and leaf mold for my in-ground plants.
My container grown Miracle Berry plants do very well in with 13-13-13 citrus fertiliser. The substrate is a 50:50 peatmoss and perlite mix, which is quite acidic.
I subscribed to your channel because your comment led me to your channel. I was looking up miracle berry plants a few hours ago
@@calculatedrush Awesome. Thank you very much.
Miracle Berry plants are wonderful and easy to keep but do have their own particular requirements.
I'm also a very long time (Southern hemisphere) gardener, and have tried various products during that time. Lived in three different regions, one cold, one wet and the other dry - where I am now. Each region had diffrent soil types hence different requirements. Some years were good and some not so. About 12 years ago we had a couple of devestating earthquakes which bought tons of liquifaction to the surface. It appears to have contained years and years of nutrients. For three years I had fantastic crops, without adding anything other than compost. I do home composting. Two years ago I used sheep pellet and chicken manure mix for the first time mixed in with the compost. Crops were reasonable. I put it on again for this season. Takes a while to break down but now I have huge croping. Too much for me and family, also distribute to some neighbours and the rest goes to the homeless mission.
Chicken compost is the best. However since chicken shit is hot, you need to age the compost for a minimum of 3 months. Stir it weekly and then use it after 3 months preferably 6
Thank you for shedding some light on this subject
Yep, I fell for this trap when I first started gardening. After about 5-6 years my plants were having a hard time in the summer. The soil was compact and basically dead. After that I discovered Robert's books and went down one hell of a research rabbit hole to mend my ways... This is a good video. I wish someone told me this ages ago.
Manufactured comment with paid thumbs ups niceee
@@yoyoyohihihidude At least, I know that my comment and thumbs up were not fake or sponsored.
At least, I didn't got the check yet.
What is title of his book. Does he have a website. Robert's last name. Thank you!
@@jackiestuck1023 Robert Pavlis.
So what's your fertilizer and it's not a secret is it?
New gardener spent a small fortune on “soil” (basically clay sold as compost as it hardened). Now I started making my own compost. I can only afford own urine mixed with grass clippings fermented, works quite well. However I see I wouldn’t need the store fertilizer
When growing plants, there are always multiple factors that determine what the ideal fertiliser is. I garden for a hobby, so not an expert, but I can say that each gardener should familiarise themselves with all the relevant factors. You mentioned doing a soil test, which is great. The climate. The permeability of the earth, drainage, and whether the good earth is just covering a layer of clay a few feet down. I recommend to everyone to explore their soil 4 feet down. You can dig a hole with a shovel, which yields the most visibility, or use a core extraction type soil sampler. The type of plants matter. Hardy plants do better at regulating mineral intake. Delicate plants, which are often deciduous and have delicate leaves, can be more affected by a chemical imbalance. The time of the year you fertilise matters. The dosage of the fertiliser is what a scientist will say is the most important. Almost anything is not harmful at all in a small enough dose yet is also dangerous at too high a dosage. And finally, if you’re planting plants you intend to harvest, rotating crops every year or every other year helps create healthier soil, more abundant and sweeter fruit and veggies. I recommend anyone to learn what each crop does to the soil and that way you’ll achieve much better results. Permaculture largely addresses the diversity and effects of individual plant types on soil quality and agro yield.
"If you can't measure it, you can't improve it." The best answer is to test your soil. Even when taking an organic approach, the "wrong" compost and manure sources can leave your garden high in phosphate too, which happened to me. Started testing my soil, and my garden has never been better. I've improved what material sources I use for compost and supplement with fertilzer based on what samples tell me.
i use 21-4-7 in the fields to produce grass for the animals. So I use a little of it for the vegetables when they are in the growth stage, you only have to take a little because it grows well. later I use 4-1-6 for tomatoes and cucumbers, the vegetables that have fruit.
Makes perfect sense to me. I use 12-12-12 for a base and add P&K as needed but the phosphate issue makes sense.
12 - 12 -12 Used exclusively for general fertilization purposes. It’s a way to fert without having to worry about which plant needs what and when. Keeps from having to have multiple fert types.
Especially useful for annual container growing. Like a liq 20 20 20. Where you may have foliage ornamental in same container as flowering plant.
True best yo give what ya need but in a pinch throw a lil 121212 and ya be ok.
You have not watch the video havn't ya!
@@alexandrevaliquette3883
Double negative much?🙄.
I still deciphered your reply, but not sure why youthink I didn’t watch. * see last sentence of original comment.
Anyways, I’m just teaching the people that a balanced fert isn’t gonna ruin your gardening. And you can be wildly successful!!!
So, unless your hard core gardener with money to spend, don’t run out and run soil tests or buy 9 different kinds of fertilizers.
‘I hope you not understand me no better.’ 😃
@@DustyTail Hi Dusty, I'm sorry for my kinda rude comment. And for my double negative as well!
I guess I feeled trolling for no reason that day. I get your point, it's legit.
I'm a french Canadian, now you better understand me!
Have a nice day, thank for your reply.
I know absolutely nothing about gardening, but I am 100% serious about maintaining a beautiful lawn. My problem is moles/mole crickets every fall season, & I've heard 10-10-10 may be a good deterrent for spreading throughout the lawn, which forms a barrier and keeps them from returning. Just wanted a second opinion. What is your take on that?
I just did a soil test, and I am very low in all 3, so 10-10-10 is fine for me, and then I will add a 16-0-10 later in the spring to push more growth
Honestly there isn’t a one size fits all. I’m in FL which is very sandy and alkaline low nutrients. 10-10-10 is a base then supplement as needed. I get really nice bananas, pineapples, and peaches using 10-10-10. Others may have differing needs based on where they are and soil conditions. I also maintain a good mulch pile for amending soil
I grow organically and get fantastic results. It's nice that my garden is a little ecosystem that supports nature and all its life forms.
I've never used pesticides and I never will and I found that you simply don't need them nature finds its own balance.
I have chicken pellets who are 4-6-8 and 5-3-2. The idea is to use 4-6-8 at the beginning of the season on most of my plants and work that fertilizer in a bit(so no full no til) then if i have a deficiency I use the 5-3-2. They are both 8 and 10kg bags for pretty cheap. Got tired of buying bagged 2kg fertilizer for 10$ when the bagger stuff has 4 to 5 times for for 15-20$ i do have some blood meal who is 12-0-0 that i could use on the extreme cases like on my strawberries, they always have a nitrogen deficiency but pretty high phosphate and potassium like you demonstrated.
After i applied the blood meal. My strawberries just Had the biggest bloom grow i ever had. They just keep on coming. I changed the soil from clay like to municipality compost mixed with peat and perlite. Still had nitrogen defiency early on. New leaves burned out at the crowns. At least im going to get an harvest this year
My peppers started having yelloish green leaves and i applied a cup of 5-3-2.
My blood potetoes had too much nitrogen. They grew extremly big but had poor tubber development. Some of them got yellow green and dropped the blossoms before they opened. One of the main reason i got the 4-6-8. I got so far 4 kg out of my 2kg seed potetoes
Been using 10-10-10 for 15 years, always have the best garden in the neighborhood
I think the reason people use 10 10 10 is because the extension office recommends it. Every class they have always tells everyone to use 10 10 10. My soil test came back last year very low in Phosphorus and fairly low in Potassium. Every thing else was good. Their recommendation was 30lbs of 10 10 10 per 1000 square feet. I just side dressed with an organic fertilizer and added compost.
Same with me
That makes sense tho if your potassium and phosphorus were already low. The thing is, don't do that every single year, without getting new test results.
I wonder if the brands that sell the 10-10-10 in a slow release format, take into account how the soil absorbs the various nutrients at different rates. 🤔
Thank you for an excellent explanation. I've been using manure, compost, and letting material from pruning fall to the ground and compost for quite a while I watch a few gardening channels, and one in particular really pushes Espoma products. The couple has made tons of money from advertising the products, but I keep imagining them sneaking around at night adding compost to their gardens after they yap about the wonders of Espoma.😅
espoma is amazing. you must have never used it to be suggesting it doesnt work
Very true I learned this hard way. Wasted plants last year by using this combination.
Amazing how many people don’t even think before they post. Plants like all living things require different vitamins and minerals for optimal health, growth, and productivity. Just because 10-10-10 “works for you” does not mean you’re providing an optimal environment for your plants to grow and thrive. Also, just like every person is different, so are plants as well soil types and conditions.
You're one of those people who don't think before you post just like you said plants are like people everyone's different so that means you would have to actually test every single plant, separate from the soil, and fertilize it to its individual needs which is absolutely ridiculous.
I usually use a 7-3-3 ratio and have had great results in all my plants especially my citrus trees.
Whats wrong with using a small amount amount of 10-10-10 and supplementing macro and micronutrients as needed later? I use 10-10-10 during vegetative growth and it doesnt hurt anything. Now flowering and fruiting times i supplement with specific nutrients. I think there is more than one way to skin a cat and very seldom are nutrients in the exact perfect ratio in nature anyway. I appreciate all the knowledge you are sharing 😊
My food forest is 3 years old and the only outside stuff iv put in is Azomite, untill just now its gotted so big i bought a bag of 101010. BUT im only adding it in tiny amounts. The forest just needs a tiny kick.
I'm going to use 10-10-10 fertilizer for the first time. Our soil takes too long to heat up to 50 degrees, so I'm going to use it to hot compost enough hay to give our Sweet Potatoes a head start.
Thanks. I always love a logical argument and people who question establshed beliefs that sometimes are delusional or misrepresented. 👍👍👍 Nothing like worm juice.
My soil and water has extremely high levels of potassium and high amounts of phosphates naturally. So I fertilize mostly with nitrogen with Ammonium sulphate(My soil is extremely alkaline).
How did you test the soil?
A great video explained with simple examples. I have a 5 gallon bucket of miracle Gro basic forming and a 5 gallon bucket of miracle Gro acid forming. I acquired them from an old job 24 years ago. They are both still half full. During that time I’ve used them only on my home garden and vegetables, sparingly.
Fertilizer needs by plants depends on the plant and time year. No one kind meets every situation. Rodney
This makes sense, I'm looking for 3-1-2 now.
I like Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro 9-3-6.
I personally use Miracle-Gro 24-8-16 at half of their recommended use, biweekly on all my contained and potted outdoors plants.
@@racebiketuner ok thanks
First of all, it really depends on the plant. Succulents and conifers need way less nitrogen than the deciduous plants. But they may start browning if they lack potassium, and they will eventually if you don't apply it. In fact, manure can literally kill these plants. The nitrogen will boost rapid green growth, but there will be not enough potassium to support its health. So the plant will exhaust itself.
Isn't replacing the missing nutrients from our soil essentially the same thing as adding the nutrients that plants need? Seems like semantics to me. For purposes of discussion, lets assume we have perfect soil, with exactly 100% of all the nutrients that our plant needs. We then grow our plant and the plant removes the nutrients it needs (somewhat unique to the particular plant). We are then left with a nutrient deficiency equivalent to the nutrients the plant removed (ignoring for the moment the additional nutrients created by our healthy living soil). So we get a soil test and it confirms the missing nutrients are equivalent to the nutrients removed by our plant, so we add fertilizer to our soil to get it back to our 100% perfect soil. Isn't that the same thing as adding fertilizer that the particular plant needs? So how is fertilizing the soil in my example any different than fertilizing the plant?
Robert, I have learned more from your videos than all the rest I've seen. I had to relearn much of what I thought I learned from other videos. So much misinformation out there. Keep up the good work!
"Isn't replacing the missing nutrients from our soil essentially the same thing as adding the nutrients that plants need?" - no. There is a huge difference and the reason most gardeners are fertilizing wrong.
Lets say soil has no nutrients - like a potted plant in peat moss. It needs a 3-1-2 ratio.
now consider soil that has enough N, enough P but is lacking K. What should you use for fertilizer? You only add K.
Thank you Mr. P. Next time I fertilize I’ll try and find 3-1-2 fertilizer. 🌺💚🙃
I purchased fish fertilizer: 3-1-0 for my avocado, peach, mango, and lime trees. Is it wise to use it on them?
The funny thing is that I think Worm castings has 10 / 10 /10... or close.. and it increases you plant growth by anything from double to quadruple the growth, because of the fungi and the good bacteria..
Worm castings should not have any npk listed. They just hold more nutrients in an available form than other things.
Worm casts are actually around 1.8-3.8-1.3, depending on what they are fed.
www.gardenmyths.com/vermicompost-is-it-great/
Worm castings are high in Phosphorus.
sometimes people are just trying to elevate themselves with a particular strategy. Ive been using 10 10 10 for decades. i only use it a few times per year because i dont always need the phosphorus.
Thanks for a scientific explanation. I learned something from you today.
bro if 10-10-10 is really 10-4-8 then the ratio is almost 3-1-2 so why is this even worth mentioning . i love my 20-20-20 it works wonders
I prefer a 33 33 33 with 1% filler.
@@garyh4458 i use my own shit for manure and piss for water, extreme results.
Been using jacks 20 20 20 for years on everything , potted plants and fig trees as well as my garden, switch to jacks bloom booster when plants are big enough to support fruits and works great for me every year
I believe you missed his point about listen N-P-K ratios. He clarifies that N-P-K does not refer to elemental ratios of nitrogen phosphorus potassium and instead refers to the Nitrogen - Phosphate - Potash. He then instructs you to use a 3-1-2 N-P-K...meaning 3 (N) - 1 (P_2 O_5) - 2 (K_2 O). If 20-20-20 works go for it but understand that just as "10-10-10 is really 10-4-8", 3-1-2 is really 3-0.4-1.6 to put it your way.
so my takeaway from your video, the correct ratio of the 10-10-10 is actually 5-2-3 ratio, so it is close to 3-1-2
No - the 10-10-10 is not 5-2-3, its 10-10-10. The 3-1-2 is also an NPK ratio, not the amounts of P and K.
according to you: the 10-10-10 is actually 10%-4%-6% so mathematically it is the same as 5-2-3 when you divide it by 2.
@@jkbcyou are correct!😂😂
In a different video you stated that fertilization depends on the soil you are working with -- that fertilizers should be used address deficiencies and not to feed plants. So the 3-1-2 ratio, is that for container gardening when using inert potting mix? Or is the 3-1-2 ratio a general rule of thumb for in-ground gardening? Thanks for the great educational garden videos, learning a lot.
The 3-1-2 is what plants use. It is not a recommended NPK for fertilizing soil that already has some nutrients.
Potting media has almost no nutrients - so use a 3-1-2.
Containers can ise 3x' as many nutrients because of limited root space.
It is a great starter fertilizer. When you plant a seed, it needs immediate nutrients, and it will take up what it needs. Farmers in the 50's and before used it for their crops, and their vegetables tasted wonderful. The county extension service recommended they use it.
it is not a good starter fertilizer for the reasons mentioned.
P2O5 and K2O compounds do not exist in fertilizers. Likewise, Potash does not contain K2O (potassium oxide), which plants do not take up. The amount of potassium is often reported as K2O equivalent (that is, how much it would be if in K2O form), however, to allow apples-to-apples comparison between different fertilizers using different types of potash. ~wiki
It is the equivalent
My dad always used 6-12-12 and always had a high producing garden
Thank you for explaining this concept which no one is discussing. It is good eye opener for me who is new to gardening! I stay in multi-storey apartment so Potted plants is the only option for me. I read in one of your blogs that Potting mix doesn't contain soil and we are also not trying to improve long term quality of potted soil using compost with slow release, hence, it is better to use synthetic fertilisers. Since 3-1-2 is recommended ratio, I started searching it. To my surprise, the country I live in it is extremely difficult to find that ratio. Everywhere it is just balanced fertiliser with 20-20-20, 10-10-10 etc. Could you please advise how I can make my own fertiliser mix for 3-1-2 ratio using multiple synthetic fertilisers like Urea, DAP and Potash which are readily available on Amazon? Thank you.
3-1-2 ratio is where the plant magic happens!
OK, you've talked me into it. Although I noticed growth when I used 10-10-10, vs. no fertilizer at all.
All my plants are potted.
Now, if I want to strengthen roots, what do I use?
And if I want my plant to flower, what do I use? This is a big problem, my plants do not flower.
Thanks.
I am no expert but find calcium nitrate helps with flowering. Someone can correct me if I’m wrong.
Any fertilizer is better than no fertilizer.
Miracle grow at half dose one time week. I used to be strictly organic for almost 20 years. I’ve got so much MG my mom bought from Costco because she has dementia. I’m glad it doesn’t expire. I use it in moderation on my plants and never had an issue. In the spring it gets my tomatoes to take off faster vs the organic fertilizers I’ve used.
I use 20 20 20. No problem. 24 12 6 is good for grass, lettuce green leaf vegetables.
Interested to see what this video has for me. I already know 4-1-2 is the overall ratio I want for the year but part of that is applications of 10-10-10 at certain points in the year.
Ah 3-1-2 forgot this is mostly aimed for gardens but the research on lawns is 4-1-2 just fyi. For the excesses vs fungi that is why application time matters, same basic idea for penetration levels, if you apply it in winter through organic slow release sources then those can work down and become plants available for the next growing season in spring. But if you are using a balanced year round that would be detrimental I agree.
I use fast acting highly available high nitrogen fertilizers either in tiny granular or liquid form for peak growing season. When I say high I mean 7-1-2. And I use top dressing of alfalfa meal and compost at the edges of the growth season and then balanced at the end of fall.
I use 10-10-10 around my lilacs, Raspberries, and around my apple trees in the spring. A couple times a summer/fall I spray miracle gro around them. Perhaps I’ll find slow release organic fertilizer to replace the 10-10-10.
This is why I tend to keep Miracid equivalent 30-10-10 around for bad rain weeks. I have all sorts of organic tricks to get long term soil health but, when nature flushes your soil out with hard water, the blue stuff works.
is this why people started coming up with the saying for gardening that less is more? if all you have is 10 10 10 then you better use less than needed for nitrogen or you will have more problems then using no nutes, potentially
To make matter worse, they also sell 2-2-2 & 20-20-20 to confuse people. 🤣
I got a basil plant, small, I searched the internet and first article said use 10 10 10 fertilizer. Then I saw your video saying do not use 10-10-10. But Is this the one in the million case where 10 10 10 is appropriate? Thanks
Does using manures without composting, potentially transmit pathogens and harmful bacteria to the garden?
And is there a soil test for home gardeners that will accurately test not only for NPK but also micronutrients?
Wouldn't a foliar spray with the appropriate nutrients be just as effective as applying fertilizer to the soil?
Has anyone else noticed that academic types in various horticulture pursuits, seem to always advocate for multiple applications of fertilizer without mentioning soil testing?
Hate to say this being an organic grower. But 10-10-10 miracle grow as a hydroponic nutrients was awesome. Now it's not available anymore. The new one didn't work.
Both Nitrogen and phosphate contribute to algae growth and one contributes to the other and algae needs both to bloom.
Since this is talking about plants in soil, what fertilizer should one use on plants in pots with potting mix? Is there a good slow release type? Surely potted plants need some of all three NPK. Thanks.
For plants in pots with potting mix, the best fertilizers are 10-10-10 and chicken manure😅
A ratio of 3-1-2
Osmocote
I Piss in my gardens works wonders!
It works great in your composter too.
I guess it might be OK to add a bit of "balanced" fertilizer if you are using legumes to fix nitrogen?
A lot of wisdom right there.
Since "balanced fertilizers" actually deliver 10% N, 4% P, and 8% K, their ratio of N to P of 10 to 4 is equal to 3 to 1.2, and their ratio of N to K of 10 to 8 is equal to 3 to 2.4.
Wouldn't this distribution of 3 to 1.2 to 2.4 be fairly similar to the 3-1-2 distribution of nutrients that plants actually need?
The 3-1-2 is an NPK ratio. So it is equal to 3 parts nitrogen, 0.4 parts Phosphorus and 1.6 parts Potassium
"Who would want an UNBALANCED fertilizer?"
I had to chuckle
That is for garden soil it seems. What about fruiting or flowering plants? What about potted orchids? Don’t they need phosphate to flower?? I’m still confused 😞
Use a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer. Plants do NOT need more P to bloom.
ua-cam.com/video/hV9C39H-9Jo/v-deo.html
I always had good luck with it. I use other things too.
What should I use to get Karl Foerster grass to bloom, as it did when I bought it? It is planted in a very big container, not in the ground. 10-10-10 is recommended online!!!???
I'm a little confused...in another video you pointed out that the 10-10-10 is in reality a 10-4-8 because of the O molecules in the potash and phosphate. So it seems that the 10-10-10 is in reality closer to the 3-1-2 ratio in terms of the 'actual' nutrients in the mix.
At 2.22 stated plant uses nutrient at 3-1-2 ratio, does that apply to hydroponic planting too?
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
Update: Found the answer in your other video. 3-1-2 ratio is actually applicable to hydroponics. I will try out this ratio with micronutrients added. Making the time to watch all your videos, thanks again.
It is a general number that is suitable for most plants, even if grown hydroponically.
I don’t agree at all. A balanced fertilizer is simply a supplement to what is already in the soil. Nitrogen is the most important consideration. Either use the balanced or use 6-16-16 for root vegetables.
"A balanced fertilizer is simply a supplement to what is already in the soil." - that is not right. If that were true every fertilizer would be balanced.
I have start off with 17-17-17 and add N-P to meet the soil test recommendations. Most of thee lawns here are in the range of 25-20-15. I do however get custom mixes for pastures. Maybe you can tell me, most every lawn fertilizer I see for sale is 25>2-2. However, none of the soil tests I get back are anywhere near that. Why so much N?
What if you primarily use a decent compost (high nitrogen materials supplemented with wood ash for potassium) and use the 10-10-10 to add some phosphate to that compost?
1have a tomato garden for 18 plants aprox. 12x25 always big beautiful good tasting some say the best tasting they ever had . fall 0-18-0 , two bags of cow manure from home depot in the fall a little 10-10-10 rototill , spring 15 25 15 after they are 12" high a little dash of mirical grow just a small amount by just the roots 2 gallons does all eighteen plants i also add every year some virgin soil thats never been plowed by man . i get the plants from the amish one guy i had diseases another guy i go to never get any diseases always remove the dead plants and don't dispose of them near your garden .
You are adding way too much phosphorus - over time the soil can become toxic.
Thankyou!! I think I was getting the too much phosphate problem
I literally use 10-10-10 on my pastures because I can get it cheap and it works great. I've even left areas undone just to see if there was a difference and there is. Your math says that 10-10-10 comes out to almost exactly what YOU are saying plants need. You claim in this video that plants want 3-1-2 and in another video you claim the 10-10-10 is actually 10-4-8 which is almost exactly the same ratio you are claiming plants what........ So.........
Key Takeaway: No Soil Test? Use compost or manure instead of 10-10-10
Best garden channel
my soil test recommends 12-12-12 and i cant find it locally. ok to use 13-13-13?
I use a 10 10 10 water soluble weak solution right in the root zone no where else...seems to work
What about a 12-12-12 for when over seeding a lawn?
The ratio of that is no different than a 10-10-10.
If I missed it please forgive me. 3-1-2 is the optimal balance but what is the optimal balance in trade number descriptions please. EG 30-10-20 is not actually that hight in P and K. thanks
Sir! Thank you so much for your expert knowledge. I just found your channel Feb. 14th, 2024.
QUESTION:
WHAT IS THE BEST FORMULA FOR A KRATKY SYSTEM For 5 gallons of water for Greens? I assume there would be an increase for vegetable like Tomato & Peppers
The hydroponic formulas are Too strong and expensive. What would you recommend as a DIY mixture?
Hydroponics fertilizer requires additional micronutrients, which are not being supplied by soil. I use the blend from this video: ua-cam.com/video/vYv9iu2NI3M/v-deo.html&ab_channel=mhpgardener
Thank you
Makes sense what you suggest, but I have a small backyard and no room for an in-ground garden. I only use fabric grow bags or vertical planters on my large outdoor patio. I make my own potting mix and add different amendments. What would fertilizer, etc. would you suggest to amend the potting mix and continue to use during the growing season? I am in zone 8b.
Depends on your amendments, but if they are watered a lot so water runs out the bottom, or if the amendments are organic in nature, you can assume very low nutrients and fertilize with 3-1-2.
I used the 10-10-10 slow release last fall and again this spring and my 3rd year hollyhocks grew rapidly, bloomed, and went to seed by sept 1. Last year they bloomed at a normal rate until late sept. freeze. Also my 1st year rocky mtn bee plant flowered ok but the leaves were dying right up the plant as it bloomed as did the delphiniums, poppies, and lupines. I knew something was wrong as the marigolds were struggling also. Bad medicine.I had my suspicions about that fertilizer. Back to fish entrails soley, and digging out the contaminated soil.
Thank you for your video. with regards to NPK ratio: if I want flower to bloom or bloom more, I don't need high N, but I need high P, correct?. High N is for plant early growth?
I like the idea of just using compost and giving a shot of combo fertilizer when plants actually show deficiency. I'd do lab tests & really target things if running a farm or was dependent on what I grow.
Most youtubers are using like 20 bags of bone meal, kelp, rock dust, fish juice, etc lol. I'm convinced its just sponsored product pushing and a waste of money. Things that may not provide any benefit or be harmful in quantities shown. Like it all just gets too exotic.
Shelfish aren't crawling into the forest to die to fertilize the plants after all, and nature does just fine lol.
3-1-2? Damn, why are so many fertilizers with a higher middle number? sometimes twice as high as N or K.
Because people keep buying them because they believe the myth that more P = more bloom.. Look at lawn fertilizer - almost always a zero middle number.
what about water soluble nutrients being fed to potted plants, does K stay at the top then? Also does 3-1-2 still pertain to water soluble fed potted plants?
I get so confused about the scientific basis of gardening recommendations. For instance, this whole topic assumes the plant needs for N,P, and K stay constant over the life of the plant. Recent science suggests otherwise, right? K+ is only required later in the life cycle of a plant and is detrimental early; nitrate is a suppressant to growth early in the cycle. I'll stick with compost and let the soil biome figure it out. I think.....
What about bloom boosters, and gardening advice that says too much nitrogen makes leaves grow at the expense of flowers?
One example is roses, another is morning glories, even nasturtiums.. last year, my nasturtium leaves were huge, with barely any flowers.
Be very careful about clever names, adjectives and packaging with cartoon images.
Partially incorrect. High levels of nitrogen can result in less bloom, but normal nitrogen levels does not. However high phosphate as in bloom booster does NOT produce more bloom unless there is a deficiency in soil - which is rare in North Aemrica.
ua-cam.com/video/hV9C39H-9Jo/v-deo.html
@@racebiketuner Of course, but all of the fertilizers advertise. I'm not looking for a pretty picture, I just want to feed a plant that's full on flowering. Don't care what they call it, I want to know why gardeners of all stripes recommend the higher numbers, not nitrogen when your plant is in bloom.
Take a soil sample. Every soil is different. My soil is low in phosphate and potassium