Yes, double up the distributor gasket, I have always used 396 pumps, bigger inlet tube and only takes 5 hp, high volume sbc pump takes 11 and eats dist gear if button on cam isn't used
I've been running nothing but BBC pumps (standard vol and pres) since the 70's ! I always run Moroso drive shafts specific to this. They are .125 shorter than regular SBC shafts. Never had an oil related issue.
Big block pump will work fine as a matter of fact it takes less horse power to turn pumps more volume and with the bigger gears the flow is smoother maintaining constant oil pressure, I ran one on my 327 and never had a bit of problems with it !
The big block pump has more smaller gear teeth than the small blocks much larger fewer teeth, both pumps displace per revolution approximately the same oil volume.
I have a 70 LT-1 also. This engine has a big block high volume high pressure pump. It was in a race car. Street/Strip Vega, built in mid to late 80's. I am rebuilding the engine as we speak, for a radical Street/Strip car. 8 qt oil pan, with dual remote filters. The oil returns, on top have been fully hogged out, extensive work done, so the oil will flow back to the pan much quicker. I'm putting it back the way it was, so I'm using the M-99HVS pump, press in pickup, with a leg, that bolts to the body of the pump. The same pickup they used.
In the 70's when you bought a HV small block pump it was a big block pump with the proper pick up tube . Mine cold idled @ 90+ & hot 60+ & it worked GREAT !
Did this on very old 283 and it blew off very bit of sluge and the result was a very smoken engine which had to be retired, stick with a good sb oil pump
Old trick there, racers been using bigblock oil pump in a SBC since the 60s. Not really necessary for most applications, but with the right setup they had their place. Usually engines built with loose clearances and 8-9qt oil pans. Modern shit has come a long way tho. Dry sump is best.
Recirculating the oil can cause foaming and definitely increases the oil temperature. Big Block pumps are not good on Small Blocks due to parasiic loss of power. If you are worried about spark scatter, get the Melling Shark oil pump. The Grump used stock oil pumps on many of his race engines. So did Smokey.
That was my thinking to . Smokey told me to never use a hi volume pump in nothing that doesn't have a 20+ gallon storage tank with a full on dry sump system.
The Big Block pump has a far better oil inlet and by-pass arrangement hence more efficient smoother running pump, the only real downside to a big block pump is size and weight. Everything you've read or heard about big block pumps using more power, heating up oil and emptying out pans is speculation and BS.
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
I put my first big block pump on a small block in 1980. You ask why would you do it? The big block pump and housing are stronger. I have seen more than four small block pumps broken off at the neck on performance engines. There are more teeth, they flow more, insuring you have plenty of oil, without necessarily increasing the pressure too much. Back then we made our own new pick up tubes, THEN there were no issues with windage tray clearances. Usually we used deep pans and had to modify the pickup tubes anyhow. Miloden offers a pickup tube to convert the big pump to small block engines. The Melling number M-99hv WAS a big block pump designed for use on a small block. I also think someone else already mentioned spark scatter.. the big block pump almost eliminated that problem.. the new shark tooth pump offered by Melling eliminates spark scatter too... Except it is EXPENSIVE! Last I knew it was over 500 dollars! Not sure why anyone wants to spend that much, when the big block pump works SO perfectly. I have disassembled a melling M55HV pump and compared it to a standard stock GM pump. They were identical in every way. SO Identical that the parts were interchangeable, including the vanes. The melling vanes would mesh perfectly with the stock GM vanes. The only difference was the SPRING.. In my eyes that made it a HIGH PRESSURE pump, NOT a high volume. A little machine work and a shim behind the spring in the stock pump and you had a pump that was just as good as the M55HV. So I never bought another one. A chat with a few people convinced me it was worth the trouble to use the big block pump, and in the last 38 years Installed them in every engine that had a higher purpose than stock. in most applications, that M55HV will work flawlessly. But once you have been burned a couple of times, you get gun shy!
The M55HV has taller gears to increase volume, if you were swapping gears it was with a M55 not a M55HV. The M55 you were playing with may have been a Z-28 replacement p/p which would have had a higher pressure spring. You are right an approx 1/8" shim on the stock spring (old style 70's pumps) will put im in the 60 psi zone.
As of 2023 the melling shark tooth pump is approximately $130 to $190 depending on the model. What a difference 4yrs makes! My two cents... (I'm talking circle track engines here where it's always above 5000 and full throttle up to 7500, over and over for 100 laps or more) The big block pump is IT hands down. It's more robust and will operate better, longer in these severely stressed engines. All while reducing spark scattering too! The M55/155HV is all any street engine will ever need. If you want to reduce spark scattering use the shark tooth sbc pump on street/ strip engines.
I usually punch the bottom of a stock SB pan down with a 2x4 and a big hammer then fine tune for use with a melling shorty pickup for the 7-3/4" BB pan
I know big block pumps fit sbc I’ve used em many times they give you more pressure and volume but because they have more bigger teeth they take more power.don’t believe me,,,ask Smokey Yunick.don’t know if I’d try the reverse tho
We believe something, and subconsciously find substanciation to justify that. Example: He's pretty sure it wouldn't work from the get go. He sets the pan down and lo and behold his belief was confirmed..never realizing the pump wasn't seated. DOH! Read KnitePrince's comments below.
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
I'm not Billy, but, no, that's not normal. How high is the pressure when you rev the engine, and or start it cold? It sounds like the pump you put in is a high pressure pump. the danger is blowing the seal on the filter and pumping your oil out on the ground while your driving if the pressure is TOO high...
Yes, double up the distributor gasket, I have always used 396 pumps, bigger inlet tube and only takes 5 hp, high volume sbc pump takes 11 and eats dist gear if button on cam isn't used
i have always used bbc pumps, more teeth they run smoother, less spark scatter.
The big block pump in a small block uses a special (shorter) driveshaft, Melodon and Canton make them.
Hell yes they do. I did my first one using a factory Chevrolet L88 pump on a 4 bolt main seasoned Z28/LT1 block.
Been doing this since the 80s !!!! Uses 2 tenths of a horse more than a small block pump on the dyno but has less pulse on the distributor side.
thats what i heard before, less spark scatter. and correct me if im wrong its 10% more volume
BBC pump has more teeth on each gear, so yes lass pulsating!
Zippy, you're a moron.
I've been running nothing but BBC pumps (standard vol and pres) since the 70's ! I always run Moroso drive shafts specific to this. They are .125 shorter than regular SBC shafts. Never had an oil related issue.
I have Ben putting bb pumps on sbc for year's
Big block pump will work fine as a matter of fact it takes less horse power to turn pumps more volume and with the bigger gears the flow is smoother maintaining constant oil pressure, I ran one on my 327 and never had a bit of problems with it !
Yes a bbc pump will fit on a sbc !, Smokey Unick ran one on his circle track car it supplys more volume not pressure
Chevrolet offered the big block pump for the small block as heavy duty oil pump, it was more than likely for road racing use or Nascar
The big block pump has more smaller gear teeth than the small blocks much larger fewer teeth, both pumps displace per revolution approximately the same oil volume.
I have a 70 LT-1 also. This engine has a big block high volume high pressure pump. It was in a race car. Street/Strip Vega, built in mid to late 80's. I am rebuilding the engine as we speak, for a radical Street/Strip car. 8 qt oil pan, with dual remote filters. The oil returns, on top have been fully hogged out, extensive work done, so the oil will flow back to the pan much quicker. I'm putting it back the way it was, so I'm using the M-99HVS pump, press in pickup, with a leg, that bolts to the body of the pump. The same pickup they used.
In the 70's when you bought a HV small block pump it was a big block pump with the proper pick up tube . Mine cold idled @ 90+ & hot 60+ & it worked GREAT !
Did this on very old 283 and it blew off very bit of sluge and the result was a very smoken engine which had to be retired, stick with a good sb oil pump
Old trick there, racers been using bigblock oil pump in a SBC since the 60s. Not really necessary for most applications, but with the right setup they had their place. Usually engines built with loose clearances and 8-9qt oil pans. Modern shit has come a long way tho. Dry sump is best.
Dry sump is best------ correct
Recirculating the oil can cause foaming and definitely increases the oil temperature. Big Block pumps are not good on Small Blocks due to parasiic loss of power. If you are worried about spark scatter, get the Melling Shark oil pump. The Grump used stock oil pumps on many of his race engines. So did Smokey.
That was my thinking to . Smokey told me to never use a hi volume pump in nothing that doesn't have a 20+ gallon storage tank with a full on dry sump system.
I'm guessing there is alot more volume from the BBC pump. It may work if the clearances are loose !
James! that's a common misconception standard volume pumps are very similar on output.
Perfect for worn out engines with big bearings clearings
7:27 The oil DOES NOT go through the impellers, it travels on the outside of the impellers !
There are no impellers.
@@causeimbatmaaan His words , fun fact , those gears nowadays are made from powdered metal , i'm guessing they r forged which would b a good thing
@@luckyPiston Sintered, not forged.
The Big Block pump has a far better oil inlet and by-pass arrangement hence more efficient smoother running pump, the only real downside to a big block pump is size and weight. Everything you've read or heard about big block pumps using more power, heating up oil and emptying out pans is speculation and BS.
Yes if will fit but to much oil pressure
I just run a small block high volume pump. They cost about the same as a standard one.
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
I put my first big block pump on a small block in 1980. You ask why would you do it? The big block pump and housing are stronger. I have seen more than four small block pumps broken off at the neck on performance engines. There are more teeth, they flow more, insuring you have plenty of oil, without necessarily increasing the pressure too much. Back then we made our own new pick up tubes, THEN there were no issues with windage tray clearances. Usually we used deep pans and had to modify the pickup tubes anyhow.
Miloden offers a pickup tube to convert the big pump to small block engines. The Melling number M-99hv WAS a big block pump designed for use on a small block. I also think someone else already mentioned spark scatter.. the big block pump almost eliminated that problem.. the new shark tooth pump offered by Melling eliminates spark scatter too... Except it is EXPENSIVE! Last I knew it was over 500 dollars! Not sure why anyone wants to spend that much, when the big block pump works SO perfectly.
I have disassembled a melling M55HV pump and compared it to a standard stock GM pump. They were identical in every way. SO Identical that the parts were interchangeable, including the vanes. The melling vanes would mesh perfectly with the stock GM vanes.
The only difference was the SPRING.. In my eyes that made it a HIGH PRESSURE pump, NOT a high volume. A little machine work and a shim behind the spring in the stock pump and you had a pump that was just as good as the M55HV. So I never bought another one. A chat with a few people convinced me it was worth the trouble to use the big block pump, and in the last 38 years Installed them in every engine that had a higher purpose than stock.
in most applications, that M55HV will work flawlessly. But once you have been burned a couple of times, you get gun shy!
Old Guys Rule! Ha ha Atta' boy. Spank 'em with experience!
The M55HV has taller gears to increase volume, if you were swapping gears it was with a M55 not a M55HV. The M55 you were playing with may have been a Z-28 replacement p/p which would have had a higher pressure spring. You are right an approx 1/8" shim on the stock spring (old style 70's pumps) will put im in the 60 psi zone.
As of 2023 the melling shark tooth pump is approximately $130 to $190 depending on the model. What a difference 4yrs makes!
My two cents... (I'm talking circle track engines here where it's always above 5000 and full throttle up to 7500, over and over for 100 laps or more) The big block pump is IT hands down. It's more robust and will operate better, longer in these severely stressed engines. All while reducing spark scattering too! The M55/155HV is all any street engine will ever need. If you want to reduce spark scattering use the shark tooth sbc pump on street/ strip engines.
XLNT vid Billy 👍👍👍
the big block pump will work i have been using them for years with no problem
u just need a deeper oil pan to hold more oil
I usually punch the bottom of a stock SB pan down with a 2x4 and a big hammer then fine tune for use with a melling shorty pickup for the 7-3/4" BB pan
@@luckyPiston The irony of your handle
I know big block pumps fit sbc I’ve used em many times they give you more pressure and volume but because they have more bigger teeth they take more power.don’t believe me,,,ask Smokey Yunick.don’t know if I’d try the reverse tho
We believe something, and subconsciously find substanciation to justify that. Example: He's pretty sure it wouldn't work from the get go. He sets the pan down and lo and behold his belief was confirmed..never realizing the pump wasn't seated. DOH! Read KnitePrince's comments below.
Thanks for your video
Is that a 302?
Its a 1970 350 LT-1 block out of a Z-28
They Dupreme Court checks Chevy's mismatched Oil Pump pressure points and rules them unevolutional, also, the Supreme Court banned Drug Checkpoints.
im Jessica's oldman
If you want to lose 5hp driving it, go ahead.
i like train by monika.
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
hi billy i have a 1984 olds with a 3.8 v6 before the oil pressure was at 25 psi engine warm i installed a oil pump kit now is on 75 psi at warm up is that normal on that engine
I'm not Billy, but, no, that's not normal. How high is the pressure when you rev the engine, and or start it cold? It sounds like the pump you put in is a high pressure pump. the danger is blowing the seal on the filter and pumping your oil out on the ground while your driving if the pressure is TOO high...
@@kniteprince3798 thanks