I have to go do this job on a 2013 Clio IV 1.5 dci shortly, and was scouting youtube for pump removal vids in case I was doing things the hard way (and it seems I'm not) and if you think this one is awkward, on the IV they made that access hole smaller than the pump, so all you can do is unplug the fuel pump wiring from above. Then you have to drain the tank, remove the rear arch liners, rear wheels off, handbrake cables, exhaust off to one side, all the lines & wiring to the tank and drop the tank downwards to get access to replace the pump itself. If it was a landrover or something I'd just cut the hole in the floorpan bigger, but apparently that's not the done thing on the wife's car. On a different job on the little turd I had to take off the FAP/Cat & turbo to have it cleaned after turbo failure, and you have to take off the front subframe, steering balljoints, steering rack, anti-roll bar, undertray & plastics etc and take the FAP out below as its too big to get out the space otherwise. For the turbo there's so many pain the arse brackets and fittings jammed between the motor and firewall I gave up and pulled the motor (which involves removing everything forward of the strut towers too) and put one in a lower mileage one from a breakers in so I never have to touch it again. Next time it goes properly wrong its getting repaired by the being doused in petrol and torched method. Its like Renault looked at the Clio3 and thought "How can we enshittify this more for mechanics". The Clio IV phase2 (2014 onwards) revised the FAP & turbo so you dont have to remove half the car to deal with a failed turbo though, probably was too much enshittifaction even for Renault concessionaires.
My clio had done over 100k miles so I took the second route - enlarged the hole with tin snips and riveted it back together. Bodge job but it worked alright.
Renault dealers have a special specific tool to remove that fuel pump lockring. There's a German Renault dealer vid which illustrates its removal with it.
Watching all your vids now. Having some similar issues you were having. The return fuel line comes from the fuel filter. The cup has a fuel filter and the R26 not. Also note the arrows on the pump assembly shows the fuel out line :) Issue I'm having now is stutter/misfire at high rpm. Video here: ua-cam.com/video/aPoGWNXZEoQ/v-deo.html Another tip, to prime pump. Insert card, hold start button in for ten seconds(make sure your in no start mode e.g. no clutch in or brake plus neutral). The ignition will switch on and prime the pump.
Tnx. With my car, you have to turn on the switch, wait a few seconds and than turn the key to ignition. Sometimes it works on the first time and sometimes on the third time. Plugs were replaced 6 months ago.. so my main suspicioun is the fuel pump
On my megane 2 when i removed the pump to check if it works it doesnt show the the fuel left in the tank. Its was stuck on zero and after i readjusted it shows me the tank is half full but it reality is full.
Hi Simon, my clio is having an issue where the car won’t start, hitting the pump from under the seat with a spanner would usually get the car starting but now that method no longer works at all, I’m conscious that a fuel pump swap would be the answer , would you say so too ? Any help would be great, I am considering purchasing a pump and doing it myself thanks to the help of this video . Just hoping/wondering if you reckon a swap of pumps will likely fix it. Thanks J
That’s does sound likely… it’s pretty easy to get to. If it was me I’d try testing it take it out check it out etc try replicate it not starting then tap it to get it going… maybe filter clogged or dirt inside.. still they are cheap enough to replace really. *** but always take precautions when dealing with flammable substances and sources of electricity *** plus the fumes can be nasty *** no liability accepted ! (and so forth) *** Hardest part for me was getting the locking ring off to start with, then when replacing getting the seal to sit right!
@@Simon78 I have replaced the pump found a used one on eBay £20, had to use hacksaw to cut the hole bigger under the seat beacuse the pump was too big to come through the metal hole, then used chizel and hammer to turn the ring, unplug the electric plug and fuel lines, lifted pump out put new one in , (hardest hit for me also was applying pressure to pump whilst turning the black ring, I had to seek assistance from a friend to press down on the pump whilst I turned it, anyway long story short the car now works fine with the new pump in, spilt abit of fuel when taking it out and can still smell it when I’m driving hahaha
The best way to find out is by taking a fuel pressure test, then you will see if it is a lack of pressure, remember the fuel injectors will not open if the fuel pressure is to low.
I got a problem with my Twingo II It coughs a bit when i drive 30 in 3rd or 4th and 70 in 5th. It happened last year In 2019 and now its annoying. Fuel gauge says 1/2 when i consumed 30 litres, according to the onboard measure for consumption and that matches when i refuel. So Its not that unreliable. It has been doing a lot of short runs. So I expect gunk. But my backyard guy (If you knew what the dealership charged) Is OK with me buying spare parts.
I have a similar issue on my renault clio i think the rubber melted there but i was curious as to wether you have to put this tool on the sides or do you put it on top of the plastic ring and push downwards?
Great vid mate really helped me out 👌 the only thing I did different after watching was with the use of the removal tool . I only used two sides instead of the three and found it was a better grip 👍
Why did you need to change this fuel pump? My car, for example, has a problem when it goes up a hill, it loses power and someone tells me that it is possible that the problem is in the fuel pump, in the city and on low speeds there is no problem
impossible to do this from inside the car under the rear seat. hole under seat is conveniently offset from the petrol pump, so will have to lower the tank. God knows why it was done like this.
dinner king I’d been having a starting issue... I believed that the pump wasn’t holding pressure whilst it was left overnight etc. (maybe the in built fuel pressure regulator even) so it was taking a hefty bit of turning over to actually catch... hasn’t occurred since the swap! So pretty successful I’d say. And a hell of a lot cheaper than getting part from Renault too.
Oh also... if you remove, even to I spect the pump assembly note that the o-ring/seal is a fiddly bastard to seat correctly especially whilst holding the assembly and what not within the space you have accessible. It is possible but a pain! I had to reseat mine as after a drive it was evidently not sat right so a little fuel was splooshing out the top.
@@Simon78 i have a very similar unit in my renault kangoo 1.4i 8valve, I need help getting that bottom cap off to get to the fuel filter inside this dumb unit, can you help with that please buddy
The seal goes on the tank below the lip of the pump assembly, there is a grove where fits. If you install over the fuel gauge then would not seal and when twisting the cap would buckle.
Oh look - a nice easy to access fuel pump under the seat. WTF is up with cnuts like Ford making them unavailable and requiring a complete dealership garage 5 hour job? They have an access hole for the electrics so there is no reason whatsoever they had to make it impossible to service from the back seat. (My Ford Focus here that has a fuel pump failure) Renault Megane II - WTF why doesn't it have a normal fuel pump fuse and a relay? It seems the ECU directly drives the fuel pump instead. Absolute shit that means it is using a MOSFET and it's likely to die and unlike a relay it means you replace the whole ECU that has to be recoded at $$1000's (My Megane II)
Great vedio on this typical pump fixing. Specially ring fixing back, for my car mechanic gone mad 3 hours to keep that black ring in renalut fluence BUT STILL NOT FIXED AND LOKKING TO GO SHOWROOM. it very dificult to sit on threads. very conjusted place to work. my hand and mechanic hand cutted with metal sharp edges. very bad designe renault fluence. but important you have not shown how you fixed the black cap ring. REMAINING ALL ARE EASY TO OPEN AND FIXING BACK
I have to go do this job on a 2013 Clio IV 1.5 dci shortly, and was scouting youtube for pump removal vids in case I was doing things the hard way (and it seems I'm not) and if you think this one is awkward, on the IV they made that access hole smaller than the pump, so all you can do is unplug the fuel pump wiring from above. Then you have to drain the tank, remove the rear arch liners, rear wheels off, handbrake cables, exhaust off to one side, all the lines & wiring to the tank and drop the tank downwards to get access to replace the pump itself. If it was a landrover or something I'd just cut the hole in the floorpan bigger, but apparently that's not the done thing on the wife's car.
On a different job on the little turd I had to take off the FAP/Cat & turbo to have it cleaned after turbo failure, and you have to take off the front subframe, steering balljoints, steering rack, anti-roll bar, undertray & plastics etc and take the FAP out below as its too big to get out the space otherwise. For the turbo there's so many pain the arse brackets and fittings jammed between the motor and firewall I gave up and pulled the motor (which involves removing everything forward of the strut towers too) and put one in a lower mileage one from a breakers in so I never have to touch it again. Next time it goes properly wrong its getting repaired by the being doused in petrol and torched method.
Its like Renault looked at the Clio3 and thought "How can we enshittify this more for mechanics". The Clio IV phase2 (2014 onwards) revised the FAP & turbo so you dont have to remove half the car to deal with a failed turbo though, probably was too much enshittifaction even for Renault concessionaires.
My clio had done over 100k miles so I took the second route - enlarged the hole with tin snips and riveted it back together. Bodge job but it worked alright.
Renault dealers have a special specific tool to remove that fuel pump lockring. There's a German Renault dealer vid which illustrates its removal with it.
Handy little video. Got to change the pump on my 2.0l Laguna so this helps a lot 👍
Watching all your vids now. Having some similar issues you were having.
The return fuel line comes from the fuel filter. The cup has a fuel filter and the R26 not. Also note the arrows on the pump assembly shows the fuel out line :)
Issue I'm having now is stutter/misfire at high rpm. Video here: ua-cam.com/video/aPoGWNXZEoQ/v-deo.html
Another tip, to prime pump. Insert card, hold start button in for ten seconds(make sure your in no start mode e.g. no clutch in or brake plus neutral). The ignition will switch on and prime the pump.
Can you please detail the symptoms of the car that pointed to failure of the fuel pump?
it runs when squeezing the ”balloon” by the fuel filter
Tnx. With my car, you have to turn on the switch, wait a few seconds and than turn the key to ignition. Sometimes it works on the first time and sometimes on the third time. Plugs were replaced 6 months ago.. so my main suspicioun is the fuel pump
is it renault trafic 3?
On my megane 2 when i removed the pump to check if it works it doesnt show the the fuel left in the tank. Its was stuck on zero and after i readjusted it shows me the tank is half full but it reality is full.
Sounds like the send float wasn’t sat in right spot‽ did you get it sorted?!
@@Simon78 yeah, it resets by itself.
Hi Simon, my clio is having an issue where the car won’t start, hitting the pump from under the seat with a spanner would usually get the car starting but now that method no longer works at all, I’m conscious that a fuel pump swap would be the answer , would you say so too ? Any help would be great, I am considering purchasing a pump and doing it myself thanks to the help of this video . Just hoping/wondering if you reckon a swap of pumps will likely fix it. Thanks J
That’s does sound likely… it’s pretty easy to get to.
If it was me I’d try testing it take it out check it out etc try replicate it not starting then tap it to get it going… maybe filter clogged or dirt inside.. still they are cheap enough to replace really.
*** but always take precautions when dealing with flammable substances and sources of electricity *** plus the fumes can be nasty *** no liability accepted ! (and so forth) ***
Hardest part for me was getting the locking ring off to start with, then when replacing getting the seal to sit right!
@@Simon78 I have replaced the pump found a used one on eBay £20, had to use hacksaw to cut the hole bigger under the seat beacuse the pump was too big to come through the metal hole, then used chizel and hammer to turn the ring, unplug the electric plug and fuel lines, lifted pump out put new one in , (hardest hit for me also was applying pressure to pump whilst turning the black ring, I had to seek assistance from a friend to press down on the pump whilst I turned it, anyway long story short the car now works fine with the new pump in, spilt abit of fuel when taking it out and can still smell it when I’m driving hahaha
The best way to find out is by taking a fuel pressure test, then you will see if it is a lack of pressure, remember the fuel injectors will not open if the fuel pressure is to low.
Hi Simon Smith i see two plugs on your sender pump,one is electric power for your sender but you know what is for the other plug wire?
I’d think there’s power for the pump, plus the signal for the fuel gauge?!
@@Simon78 mine is unplugged as the other part of the loom is missing but gauge is working,is something else for but seems nobody knows
How do i get toe the pipe se play to the tank cot leck a tank to wards tank
How do you get to the feul tank
I got a problem with my Twingo II
It coughs a bit when i drive 30 in 3rd or 4th and 70 in 5th.
It happened last year In 2019 and now its annoying.
Fuel gauge says 1/2 when i consumed 30 litres, according to the onboard measure for consumption and that matches when i refuel. So Its not that unreliable.
It has been doing a lot of short runs. So I expect gunk.
But my backyard guy (If you knew what the dealership charged) Is OK with me buying spare parts.
I have a similar issue on my renault clio i think the rubber melted there but i was curious as to wether you have to put this tool on the sides or do you put it on top of the plastic ring and push downwards?
Szucs Istvan ; down the sides , it’s a tight fit there’s little room so watch your fingers!!!
@@Simon78 Worst design my fingers blooded in renault fluence
Great vid mate really helped me out 👌 the only thing I did different after watching was with the use of the removal tool . I only used two sides instead of the three and found it was a better grip 👍
I guess I am kinda off topic but does anyone know a good place to stream new movies online ?
@Kevin Reid meh I watch on flixportal. you can find it by googling :D -eden
@Eden Jordy thanks, I signed up and it seems to work :D Appreciate it !
@Kevin Reid Glad I could help :)
Why did you need to change this fuel pump?
My car, for example, has a problem when it goes up a hill, it loses power and someone tells me that it is possible that the problem is in the fuel pump, in the city and on low speeds there is no problem
Where you bought it?
impossible to do this from inside the car under the rear seat. hole under seat is conveniently offset from the petrol pump, so will have to lower the tank. God knows why it was done like this.
It is possible but feels like you will lose the fuel lines etc into the void!
what was the reason for the new pump? are you still having starting issues?
dinner king I’d been having a starting issue... I believed that the pump wasn’t holding pressure whilst it was left overnight etc. (maybe the in built fuel pressure regulator even) so it was taking a hefty bit of turning over to actually catch... hasn’t occurred since the swap! So pretty successful I’d say. And a hell of a lot cheaper than getting part from Renault too.
ok thanks, thats valueable Information. my megane does have exactly the same starting issues, gonna check my fuel pressure.
Oh also... if you remove, even to I spect the pump assembly note that the o-ring/seal is a fiddly bastard to seat correctly especially whilst holding the assembly and what not within the space you have accessible. It is possible but a pain! I had to reseat mine as after a drive it was evidently not sat right so a little fuel was splooshing out the top.
@@Simon78 i have a very similar unit in my renault kangoo 1.4i 8valve, I need help getting that bottom cap off to get to the fuel filter inside this dumb unit, can you help with that please buddy
@@Dinner653do you have some guidance for me to get that bottom big round cap off that unit so I can get to the fuel filter....
My red n green connections seems to be too tight , I just cannot get them off.
KEEP PRESSING GREEN ALONG WITH PULLOUT ITS EASY
does the seal (the black rubber one) go in bw the tank and the fuel gauge or over the fuel gauge under the cap?
The seal goes on the tank below the lip of the pump assembly, there is a grove where fits. If you install over the fuel gauge then would not seal and when twisting the cap would buckle.
1.9DCI
Oh look - a nice easy to access fuel pump under the seat. WTF is up with cnuts like Ford making them unavailable and requiring a complete dealership garage 5 hour job? They have an access hole for the electrics so there is no reason whatsoever they had to make it impossible to service from the back seat. (My Ford Focus here that has a fuel pump failure)
Renault Megane II - WTF why doesn't it have a normal fuel pump fuse and a relay? It seems the ECU directly drives the fuel pump instead. Absolute shit that means it is using a MOSFET and it's likely to die and unlike a relay it means you replace the whole ECU that has to be recoded at $$1000's (My Megane II)
True. It was a bugger to get out …
Then the fuse box and ecu as you say, in the Renault we’re ridiculously hard to get to …
Great vedio on this typical pump fixing. Specially ring fixing back, for my car mechanic gone mad 3 hours to keep that black ring in renalut fluence BUT STILL NOT FIXED AND LOKKING TO GO SHOWROOM. it very dificult to sit on threads. very conjusted place to work. my hand and mechanic hand cutted with metal sharp edges. very bad designe renault fluence. but important you have not shown how you fixed the black cap ring. REMAINING ALL ARE EASY TO OPEN AND FIXING BACK
I made a DIY tool for removing that threaded ring, you need a welder and some steel strips.
Never buy French cars.
Simple, and just truthful!
Why?
Never buy deutsche cara....
the worst setup ever. Fuse box is a mission to get too. and nothing online to show locations. stupid cars tbh