So glad it worked out for you. I was hoping that increasing the speed would be the solution. I made a bowl just the other day. I am still amazed how great the friction polish looks on the finished product.
I always have had streaking with the equal measures of OB shine juice. I now use a 6 oz. of shellac, 3 oz of denatured alcohol and 1 oz. of Boiled Linseed oil. Sand up to 600 grit and apply. Great results with no streaking or fading of shine.
Excellent presentation and explanation. Do you have problems with dulling from fingerprints from touching the piece before it cures for at least 24 hours?
I'm new to turning and have just started using friction polish. If after applying there are streaks in the finish am I putting to much pressure on the paper towel. Good video, thanks. George
Apply a liberal amount of the finish with a light touch until the entire piece is covered. You can then increase the pressure as you buff in the finish.
What about zinsser seal coat? it is the shellac minus any wax, would it work as a friction polish or do I need to get the kind with the "wax" ? Thanks .
You can use either the waxed or seal coat (un-waxed). Both work equally well. The only difference is if you want to apply any additional finish after the friction polish such as poly. The non-wax shellac will allow the poly to adhere better. You still have to use the denatured alcohol and linseed oil regardless of which type of shellac you use. I just apply the friction polish without any additional finish so I use either shellac, it makes no difference.
dave im having trouble with this finish,,it seems after I apply it ,,it has a good finish,,but the next morning about 90 percent of the shine is gone,,,what is the rpm that you apply it,,i normally go to about 1800 rpm,,any help would be appreciated
I apply it at a moderate speed, 1000-1500 rpm. Once applied I crank the lathe all the way up to over 3000 rpm to buff to a fine shine. Hope this helps you out.
I use the Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac. I believe it is waxed since it does not state otherwise. If for some reason you prefer wax free just use Zinsser Clear coat as it is a wax free shellac.
Isn't this just a variation on French polishing? I thought it was very prone to moisture effect and handling. Am I wrong? How does this stand up to handing in a useable object?
Yes it is. I have luthier training and am very familiar with french polishing an instrument. I find the technique in this video to be much more durable. I think it is because it is applied much thinner and the heat from the friction seems to burnish the finish in. I have never had a problem with the finish degrading from either age or handling.
The Zinsser Shellac that I recommend in the video can eventually go bad but I have never run into that problem. You may notice that it may start to thicken in the container. When this happens just add more alcohol to the mixture to rejuvenate it. Once you get past a couple of years it is best to just toss it and make a new batch. What speed are you running your lathe at? Are you generating enough speed/friction to feel heat build up. I set my lathe as fast as safely possible (determined by the size of the project). I build up so much heat that I can barely keep in contact any longer. If done right the results should fall in line with mine in the video.
I use latex or nitrile gloves when applying this as the alcohol can be absorbed through your skin and build up in your bloodstream. Not healthy. Great video. Just subscribed to your channel. Keep them coming.
ua-cam.com/video/U5wcM1xx1WE/v-deo.html what do you all think this guy used to not only friction glue the goblet to the faceplate but also friction finished it to a high gloss? was that shellac stick or some sort of resin?
I live in the Northeast where the humidity can get high at times. The plastic bags help protect the tables of the tools from developing rust. It also helps the machines clean and free from sawdust.
You dont mention what type of surface the finish is to be used on, and what type not to be used on. i attempted to apply the finish over a stained project and it disolved the the stain and made an awful mess.
Forgive me if I was not clear. Friction polish is generally used on freshly turned bare wood. Anytime I stain or dye the wood I usually spray with a poly coating to protect the finish. Friction polish is used as a standalone one step finish. I don't thing I would use it on top of any other finish due to the friction and heat build up.
@@daveswoodshop782 Hey Dave. If a piece of wood is handled alot with fiction polish. Would a rub on high gloss polyethylene work on top of the friction polish? Thanks and enjoy your channel.
Good video, Dave. Thanks for posting.
Glad you found it helpful
Perfect . Thanks🙏
dave i took your advice and turned the speed up and what a difference it made,,it looks like glass its so shinny,,thanks again
So glad it worked out for you. I was hoping that increasing the speed would be the solution. I made a bowl just the other day. I am still amazed how great the friction polish looks on the finished product.
I always have had streaking with the equal measures of OB shine juice. I now use a 6 oz. of shellac, 3 oz of denatured alcohol and 1 oz. of Boiled Linseed oil. Sand up to 600 grit and apply. Great results with no streaking or fading of shine.
Excellent presentation and explanation. Do you have problems with dulling from fingerprints from touching the piece before it cures for at least 24 hours?
+Mike Peace I have never noticed a problem. I think the key is to try to build some heat up as you burnish the finish.
I'm new to turning and have just started using friction polish. If after applying there are streaks in the finish am I putting to much pressure on the paper towel. Good video, thanks.
George
Apply a liberal amount of the finish with a light touch until the entire piece is covered. You can then increase the pressure as you buff in the finish.
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
What about zinsser seal coat? it is the shellac minus any wax, would it work as a friction polish or do I need to get the kind with the "wax" ? Thanks .
You can use either the waxed or seal coat (un-waxed). Both work equally well. The only difference is if you want to apply any additional finish after the friction polish such as poly. The non-wax shellac will allow the poly to adhere better. You still have to use the denatured alcohol and linseed oil regardless of which type of shellac you use. I just apply the friction polish without any additional finish so I use either shellac, it makes no difference.
dave im having trouble with this finish,,it seems after I apply it ,,it has a good finish,,but the next morning about 90 percent of the shine is gone,,,what is the rpm that you apply it,,i normally go to about 1800 rpm,,any help would be appreciated
I apply it at a moderate speed, 1000-1500 rpm. Once applied I crank the lathe all the way up to over 3000 rpm to buff to a fine shine. Hope this helps you out.
thanks dave I will try that,,,i watched your video on the spindle gouge and I cant tell you how much it helped me,,and the skew also
dave what speed do you put it on,,,
As fast as your lathe will go. In my case 3600 RPM.
Do you recommend the dewaxed shellac or the regular?
I use the Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac. I believe it is waxed since it does not state otherwise. If for some reason you prefer wax free just use Zinsser Clear coat as it is a wax free shellac.
Thank you, I didn’t know if it made a difference on the waxed vs. wax free shellac.
Isn't this just a variation on French polishing? I thought it was very prone to moisture effect and handling. Am I wrong? How does this stand up to handing in a useable object?
Yes it is. I have luthier training and am very familiar with french polishing an instrument. I find the technique in this video to be much more durable. I think it is because it is applied much thinner and the heat from the friction seems to burnish the finish in. I have never had a problem with the finish degrading from either age or handling.
dave does shellac go bad,,i have tried this many times and never got a good shine,,
The Zinsser Shellac that I recommend in the video can eventually go bad but I have never run into that problem. You may notice that it may start to thicken in the container. When this happens just add more alcohol to the mixture to rejuvenate it. Once you get past a couple of years it is best to just toss it and make a new batch. What speed are you running your lathe at? Are you generating enough speed/friction to feel heat build up. I set my lathe as fast as safely possible (determined by the size of the project). I build up so much heat that I can barely keep in contact any longer. If done right the results should fall in line with mine in the video.
thanks dave I will try it again
Would it work with 91% isopropyl alcohol? Already have a gallon of it
Great question. Sorry but no. Isopropyl contains a high percentage of water (about 30% I believe) which will cause the shellac to blush (turn white)
Ok thanks
I use latex or nitrile gloves when applying this as the alcohol can be absorbed through your skin and build up in your bloodstream. Not healthy. Great video. Just subscribed to your channel. Keep them coming.
You are the type of person that needs to live in a fucking bubble. Build up through time, he isnt taking a bath in the polish
ua-cam.com/video/U5wcM1xx1WE/v-deo.html
what do you all think this guy used to not only friction glue the goblet to the faceplate but also friction finished it to a high gloss? was that shellac stick or some sort of resin?
Another use for frition polish is bait for mouse traps....They love it. No joke.
why do all your machines have bags on them?
I live in the Northeast where the humidity can get high at times. The plastic bags help protect the tables of the tools from developing rust. It also helps the machines clean and free from sawdust.
@@daveswoodshop782 ok thanks
You dont mention what type of surface the finish is to be used on, and what type not to be used on. i attempted to apply the finish over a stained project and it disolved the the stain and made an awful mess.
Forgive me if I was not clear. Friction polish is generally used on freshly turned bare wood. Anytime I stain or dye the wood I usually spray with a poly coating to protect the finish. Friction polish is used as a standalone one step finish. I don't thing I would use it on top of any other finish due to the friction and heat build up.
@@daveswoodshop782 Hey Dave.
If a piece of wood is handled alot with fiction polish. Would a rub on high gloss polyethylene work on top of the friction polish? Thanks and enjoy your channel.