What a great list of upgrades to turn.the Ender 3 V2 into a much more reliable and capable printer. Love the video style as well your videos always look professional, but you've definitely taken things to the next level.
Should make a video on a high speed setup, would be helpful for people that want to get into that area. For example what to go for first, what hotends to choose etc
Always, if u are running DD, try to put the spool out of the upper part of the frame, creates vibration, try for example, attach the spool to a shelf, or something similar above the printer 👌 For bowden setups, the spool on the side is the way to go, and print a simple guide so the filament doesnt get any chance of touching the THSL rod
The very best upgrades I've found are: PEI spring steel sheet - Everything sticks. I can pop PLA off right away with it still warm, but PETG I have to let cool down. I use a glass plate with the PEI spring steel sheet. Glass is held to the aluminum bed with Kapton tape on the edges, and the PEI sheet is held on with a magnetic sticker applied to the glass. It's a lot of mass to heat, but I usually bump up the bed temps 5 degrees to compensate. BL-Touch with yellow bed springs - I don't have to ever mess with leveling the bed. It is truly "set and forget". If I have to tweak it, I babystep the Z. Dual gear extruders/BMG - The stock plastic extruder on the Ender 3 is absolute garbage. All metal hotend - I got Micro Swiss clones for all my printers. The stock MK8 hot end is junk. I've had so many clogs, burnt bowden, and leaks I lost count. I've never had one problem with the MS design. Upgraded controller boards - Two of my printers have SKR 1.3, and my Ender 5 Plus has SKR 1.4 Turbo. All run TMC2208 drivers. I got tired of my printers thinking they were chiptune DJs. Octoprint on Raspberry Pis - So much easier. My printers live down in our basement, and running up and down the stairs with MicroSD cards was stupid. Plus, with cheap webcams plugged into the Pis, I can monitor the printing remotely. Other upgrades: I'm using the Printermods XChange system on all three printers, so I can swap them between direct drive and bowden. I also have a print head built up for abrasive filament, and one for TPU filament. One of my Ender 3s has been converted to belted Z. I'm midway through converting my Ender 5+ over to Klipper. I have no experience with Klipper, so this is a learning adventure for me.
@@Crosslink3D Mainsail and fluidd are purpose built operating systems for klipper but you can use octoprint as well with a plug in. I personally use mainsail and I was a little apprehensive because the V2's lcd screen doesn't work with klipper and it can be a little overwhelming at first but now that I have it set up, it's amazing.
@@Crosslink3D I've run into a problem with the Ender 5+ and Klipper, and I'm sure the Ender 3v2 would have the same problem. Klipper isn't compatible with the stock touch screens from Creality. I purchased a Bigtreetech TFT35 thinking it would work since it has 12864 display emulation, but the Klipper compatible firmware for it isn't very stable. I haven't decided whether to buy a 12864 screen for it.
@@SpünmanReal I've been looking at both Mainsail and Fluidd, and I'm pretty sure I'm going with Mainsail. It seems a little more advanced, feature wise.
@@dr3ifach I believe they each have features that the other doesn't but I'm not familiar with fluidd so you could be right. As far as the screen, I thought I would really miss having it but it really hasn't been an issue. You can access the mainsail UI on your phone if you aren't sitting at your computer and I have been asking my friends if they have an old tablet they don't use anymore to use as a touchscreen.
Great video.. On my main ender 3 pro, I fitted tpu feet to give more airflow, make the printer quieter and hopefully absorb some of the vibration. Yes, the bltouch or whatever leveling sensor is important for getting the level of the bed, but it's not a way out of manual leveling that should still be done. I also fitted the silicone bed adjusters and find the bed goes out much less than with springs. In my view and I share this point of view with you, an all metal hotend is only a good thing. I have one on my main ender 3 Pro (with direct drive for flex) and am waiting on another for my 2nd e3p (a bowden setup). The filament sensor is great as it pauses the print if the filament runs out, saving you money, time and general unpleasantness. However, I have seen folks having issues where they go away for an amount of time, the printer times out and turns the bed off, releasing the print before they get the chance to fix it. I love the raspberry pi and octoprint. I no longer have to sit right next to the printer and with access anywhere a d octoapp, I can even keep an eye on the print when roaming - plus, it tells me if it thinks there's a problem. I also have my main machine in an enclosure, due to the old house being draughty - layer separation and warped prints haven't been an issue since. The 2nd printer will go in the shed and will also be chambered to keep out draughts and general dust that you get with sheds.
I have found with the glass beds that if you have the perfect leveling and Z offset and the perfect amount of squish you get great adhesion with easy print release and no or little elephants foot, you must also clean the yellow gunk with isoropanonyl and not soap as if you dont or you use soap the yellow gunk overtime bakes solid and nothing will adhere to it, Creality have stopped sticking down the protective sheet with this type of yellow adhesive but I did not fancy wasting a new glass bed to test whether this new adhesive bakes solid as it was a friends printer I had assembled and calibrated.
It's too tricky for me and PEI beds are so much more easier to level and work with. I agree that you can make it work but I was so annoyed at some point that I dumped it and never looked back.
@@Crosslink3D I was more or less forced to use glass and make it work well as one of my clients prefers the finish from the borosilicate glass on one product part and a really shiny finish from mirror tile on another, I have tried smooth PEI for the shiny finish but its not as shiny a finish as the mirror tiles, I have quite a few of the mirror tiles so I just take them off the printer and pop on another and when I have 4 or five finished prints I take them off
Do you know that mainboard cooling fan is working only if part cooling fan is on? (I find out only few weeks ago). That may be the reason for frying steppers, especially if you print PETG or ABS with reduced part cooling. I rewired the fan to be always ON, powered from terminals where hotend fan is.
How do you get the smart filament sensor to work with Octorprint? I bought a few of these awhile back, but never did install them as I only think they would wok when you are printing from the SD card.
I love all of this and will probably do most the same myself, but one question- the upgrades to Z axis like dual motor or belt drive seem to be pretty popular and people are saying that it is really worth it, have you not done this? Or you feel it actually isn’t that important?
I have a problem with my ender 3 v2 bc i upgraded it to direct drive and i lost some centimeters in z height and some millimeters in x so how do i stop it from smashing in to the aluminum extrusions?? pls help
jajajajajja antes podias imprimir casi 24 cm ahora con suerte podes imprimir 14 cm con semejante atrocidad de extrusion directa, ni hablar el peso sobre el carro del eje x, un disparate total!! xD
What a great list of upgrades to turn.the Ender 3 V2 into a much more reliable and capable printer. Love the video style as well your videos always look professional, but you've definitely taken things to the next level.
Thanks! Always happy to try harder :-)
Should make a video on a high speed setup, would be helpful for people that want to get into that area. For example what to go for first, what hotends to choose etc
Just bought this printer and am expecting delivery at the end of the week.
I can't wait to try out your recommended upgrades! tyvm for sharing
Have fun!
All very handy upgrades! Good stuff mate
Thanks 👍
Always, if u are running DD, try to put the spool out of the upper part of the frame, creates vibration, try for example, attach the spool to a shelf, or something similar above the printer 👌
For bowden setups, the spool on the side is the way to go, and print a simple guide so the filament doesnt get any chance of touching the THSL rod
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences. Great information
my favourites are
1. BL-Touch
2. SKR Mini E3 V2
3. Octopi
4. rubber-bumper replacement for bed-levelling springs
Yeah, SKR is also on my list but at the moment it he stock boards run fine
Great topic, thanks 👍
The very best upgrades I've found are:
PEI spring steel sheet - Everything sticks. I can pop PLA off right away with it still warm, but PETG I have to let cool down. I use a glass plate with the PEI spring steel sheet. Glass is held to the aluminum bed with Kapton tape on the edges, and the PEI sheet is held on with a magnetic sticker applied to the glass. It's a lot of mass to heat, but I usually bump up the bed temps 5 degrees to compensate.
BL-Touch with yellow bed springs - I don't have to ever mess with leveling the bed. It is truly "set and forget". If I have to tweak it, I babystep the Z.
Dual gear extruders/BMG - The stock plastic extruder on the Ender 3 is absolute garbage.
All metal hotend - I got Micro Swiss clones for all my printers. The stock MK8 hot end is junk. I've had so many clogs, burnt bowden, and leaks I lost count. I've never had one problem with the MS design.
Upgraded controller boards - Two of my printers have SKR 1.3, and my Ender 5 Plus has SKR 1.4 Turbo. All run TMC2208 drivers. I got tired of my printers thinking they were chiptune DJs.
Octoprint on Raspberry Pis - So much easier. My printers live down in our basement, and running up and down the stairs with MicroSD cards was stupid. Plus, with cheap webcams plugged into the Pis, I can monitor the printing remotely.
Other upgrades:
I'm using the Printermods XChange system on all three printers, so I can swap them between direct drive and bowden. I also have a print head built up for abrasive filament, and one for TPU filament.
One of my Ender 3s has been converted to belted Z.
I'm midway through converting my Ender 5+ over to Klipper. I have no experience with Klipper, so this is a learning adventure for me.
Love your list of mods. I am also looking into Klipper. I understand that it doesn't make sense without a Raspi and mainsailos
@@Crosslink3D Mainsail and fluidd are purpose built operating systems for klipper but you can use octoprint as well with a plug in. I personally use mainsail and I was a little apprehensive because the V2's lcd screen doesn't work with klipper and it can be a little overwhelming at first but now that I have it set up, it's amazing.
@@Crosslink3D I've run into a problem with the Ender 5+ and Klipper, and I'm sure the Ender 3v2 would have the same problem. Klipper isn't compatible with the stock touch screens from Creality. I purchased a Bigtreetech TFT35 thinking it would work since it has 12864 display emulation, but the Klipper compatible firmware for it isn't very stable. I haven't decided whether to buy a 12864 screen for it.
@@SpünmanReal I've been looking at both Mainsail and Fluidd, and I'm pretty sure I'm going with Mainsail. It seems a little more advanced, feature wise.
@@dr3ifach I believe they each have features that the other doesn't but I'm not familiar with fluidd so you could be right. As far as the screen, I thought I would really miss having it but it really hasn't been an issue. You can access the mainsail UI on your phone if you aren't sitting at your computer and I have been asking my friends if they have an old tablet they don't use anymore to use as a touchscreen.
Great video..
On my main ender 3 pro, I fitted tpu feet to give more airflow, make the printer quieter and hopefully absorb some of the vibration.
Yes, the bltouch or whatever leveling sensor is important for getting the level of the bed, but it's not a way out of manual leveling that should still be done. I also fitted the silicone bed adjusters and find the bed goes out much less than with springs.
In my view and I share this point of view with you, an all metal hotend is only a good thing. I have one on my main ender 3 Pro (with direct drive for flex) and am waiting on another for my 2nd e3p (a bowden setup).
The filament sensor is great as it pauses the print if the filament runs out, saving you money, time and general unpleasantness. However, I have seen folks having issues where they go away for an amount of time, the printer times out and turns the bed off, releasing the print before they get the chance to fix it.
I love the raspberry pi and octoprint. I no longer have to sit right next to the printer and with access anywhere a d octoapp, I can even keep an eye on the print when roaming - plus, it tells me if it thinks there's a problem.
I also have my main machine in an enclosure, due to the old house being draughty - layer separation and warped prints haven't been an issue since. The 2nd printer will go in the shed and will also be chambered to keep out draughts and general dust that you get with sheds.
Can the glass cover/box be put over the unit while a print is in progress?
Where do I find the sunglasses that you're wearing at 3:10 ? May I know the brand name and model? Thank you!
Thanks Daniel.
My pleasure!
I have found with the glass beds that if you have the perfect leveling and Z offset and the perfect amount of squish you get great adhesion with easy print release and no or little elephants foot, you must also clean the yellow gunk with isoropanonyl and not soap as if you dont or you use soap the yellow gunk overtime bakes solid and nothing will adhere to it, Creality have stopped sticking down the protective sheet with this type of yellow adhesive but I did not fancy wasting a new glass bed to test whether this new adhesive bakes solid as it was a friends printer I had assembled and calibrated.
It's too tricky for me and PEI beds are so much more easier to level and work with. I agree that you can make it work but I was so annoyed at some point that I dumped it and never looked back.
@@Crosslink3D I was more or less forced to use glass and make it work well as one of my clients prefers the finish from the borosilicate glass on one product part and a really shiny finish from mirror tile on another, I have tried smooth PEI for the shiny finish but its not as shiny a finish as the mirror tiles, I have quite a few of the mirror tiles so I just take them off the printer and pop on another and when I have 4 or five finished prints I take them off
Where did you get the RPi case from. I cant find any links or references to it in the video or comments.
I'm also curious to know what that Raspberry Pi case is! Please share if it's a publicly shared model.
Do you know that mainboard cooling fan is working only if part cooling fan is on? (I find out only few weeks ago). That may be the reason for frying steppers, especially if you print PETG or ABS with reduced part cooling. I rewired the fan to be always ON, powered from terminals where hotend fan is.
I’m powering the case cooling fan directly from the power supply, it’s always on!
I would love to see you do an ender 3 Voron afterburner upgrade... and compare it's print quality and ease of instal to Hero me.
Do you have a link to the .stl file for the 3D printed Raspberry Pi case in this video?
Like the Prusament style orange accents. Is this PETG? Which brand did you use?
PETG orange Prusament 😁
How do you get the smart filament sensor to work with Octorprint? I bought a few of these awhile back, but never did install them as I only think they would wok when you are printing from the SD card.
I love all of this and will probably do most the same myself, but one question- the upgrades to Z axis like dual motor or belt drive seem to be pretty popular and people are saying that it is really worth it, have you not done this? Or you feel it actually isn’t that important?
Nice video👍
So wie immer😂
Danke!
Can you link what filament sensor housing you're using in the ender in your video? Its clearly different from the filament sensor video you linked.
It’s in the video description as slim version, just a cut down version of the original housing
What bed plate are you using because i cant find a black one ?
I have a problem with my ender 3 v2 bc i upgraded it to direct drive and i lost some centimeters in z height and some millimeters in x so how do i stop it from smashing in to the aluminum extrusions?? pls help
Orange ender is like Prulity or what?
I should patent that
How did you get the 4th foot to fit.
There is a metal brack. I am new to this for reference
How to do auto power off
I hear a German accent (or one that could be mistaken for German) and I watch the whole video.
Those feet sound dangerous
They are sharp, actually
🔥💕👍
bro turned this printer to Prusa Ender 3 V2
Der deutsche Akzent
fällt nicht weiter auf
jajajajajja antes podias imprimir casi 24 cm ahora con suerte podes imprimir 14 cm con semejante atrocidad de extrusion directa, ni hablar el peso sobre el carro del eje x, un disparate total!! xD
when is a ender not a ender .when its been over modded lol
yeah, i see. Maybe I've gone too far but I love it so far 😂
@@Crosslink3D Yours is an Über Ender!
This printer is garbage and a waste of time
FYI: You made a typo in the blog link (wrong date)
The the correct link is /2022/05/06/all-the-upgrades-on-my-ender-3-v2/
Thanks, it’s fixed now!