nice job,I m doing one now.I love the brake lines and how you did the front lock,through the bottom,nice,I put a 6"lift on mine BDS ,the idea is a 383/700r4/np231 ford 8.8 ,eventually I will get aftermarket axles but im getting tired of waiting.I miss it,Ive completely restored the frame and tub,did all the welding.trans and transfercase is ready for motor,your doing great job!!!!!!!!!!!!oh yea, I wish i coulda used those motor mounts.I got gen 1-2 ones from novake,lol,I dont need all them complication,mine will start after EMP ,,lol ...take care.
Bob, I've been watching your project and would like more specific part numbers for you choice of brake master cylinder and brake booster if you please. Also the length of the braided line from the clutch master to the slave cylinder. enjoy your ride, Eddie
Master cylinder and booster are from TuffStuff in Cleveland Ohio. They are generic GM replacements. The braided line is available from Novak Conversions, I don’t have the length handy.
Great video! I myself am restoring a 98 TJ. Have you thought of engine noise in the cab? Since it looks to be a daily driver, I highly recommend soundproofing the firewall now that its accessible as well as the hood. Keep up the good work!
Hi Bob, Thanks a again for such detail video's. I spy with my little eye a possible drain sink drain on the drivers side floor? If so, great idea. If not, what is the big hole used for? Secondly a question regarding your steering column, I noticed No ignition key on the column, will you be wiring one into the dash? Did you go with a tilt wheel or non tilt?
Hi Ben. Thanks for asking a difficult question in such a polite manner. When my project is complete I’ll detail all the associated costs for various portions of my Jeep. Maybe it will help someone plan for, budget for, and execute their own restoration. Anyways, I’m in the mid 20s so far and nearing the finish line.
Why did you not use stainless steel spring guards on the brake lines? Do you think they will be okay without them? Beautiful Jeep you're doing a great job!
@@BobWilson84 nice. Id like to see how it comes out. I went with a Painless knock off when my harness fried a few years ago, and now that empty spot is just staring at me. I'm doing an LS swap as well, and was debating rewiring again just because I rushed it the first time. If that spot can't be used, I was going to make a filler plate to close the spot.
Good plan, if you can wait like a month or so I’ll post a video of the painless wire harness and bulkhead connector. I think it should be a direct fit with minimal modifications.
Yep, you have good ears! Both kiddos enjoy playing in my garage while I’m working. As for the time, well, I’m at 13 months so far into this project. Lots of weekends and evenings. As for my day job, I work for the power company.
Headers were from Novak which I think are Made by Sanderson. I made the y-pipe diy. None of the GM manifolds I found would clear the firewall or mounts.
link/part number for that clutch line? looks fantastic! I have the same setup (master and Novak slave) but the Novak cable they sent is waaaayyyy too long.
Hey Jason.... it’s a 24” long (I think). -3AN braided line. I found a 3AN adapter for the factory clutch Master, it’s by advance adapters. And the slave cylinder is some size inverted flare which is easy enough to convert to 3AN. Not sure about yours, but my clutch slave rod seems like it’s a little too short, the clutch grabs with the pedal nearly at the floor. Have you tried yours yet?
@@BobWilson84 nice, thanks! I think I might take my cable to a hydraulic hose shop and see if they can shorten it. Haven't tested my clutch yet but I can probably get to it this weekend. Did you get the adjustable pivot ball from Novak as well?
Hi Jason, I read conflicting reports too. Some say 25psi some say safe for high pressure EFI. I researched a lot and felt comfortable enough to try it. Once I installed everything I pressure tested up to 90psi with no problems -and I was just using the compression style pipe ends. No leaks, no signs of stress. My EFI is going to run at 43psi so I’m confident it’ll hold. From what I learned the vibration and rubbing is what really weakens aluminum so I used rubber isolated tubing clamps made for 3/8 and 5/16 line. Maybe I’ll regret aluminum down the road, but so far looks like it’s going to be good. Hope that helps.
Is that an OME 2.5 lift with 33's? I'd like to pull my 4 inch Rough Country lift and go with OME to improve ride quality but I'm told that 33's won't fit the 2.5 OME kit.....
That looks great. You've made a lot more progress than I have recently. House remodel got in the way. I do have some questions that I'm struggling with, if you don't mind. Brake lines: Did you bend your own? (It looks like it.) What lines did you go with? Are the braided lines pre-made for brakes? What is that junction box (for a lack of the correct term) you have on the front axle that the brake lines run in to? How did you attach it to the axle tube? I'm really struggling with my brake lines. I bought a pre-made kit that doesn't fit. I'm thinking I may have make my own. I like how you ran yours. What are you doing about drive shafts? I see you have the front. Did you buy a new one or re-build the factory one? What are you doing in the rear? I think I'm going with some Tom Woods drive shafts. I have to re-do the driver side exhaust. It's right in the way of where the front drive shaft will run. I'm struggling with that too. I don't have a band saw to make clean cuts. The chop saw and angle grinder aren't doing the job. I'm thinking of buying some pre-made pie cuts to build it. Oh, the wiring!! That was a job for me. I re-built the GM harness. I'm curious to see how yours comes out.
Hi Ted, I can understand how a house project can get in the way. Been there. Done that. Brakes. I used 3/16 copper/nickel and double flared everything myself. It’s very easy to work work and bends by hand if needed. I welded 1/4 studs to the front axle to mount it. The blocks are called “tees”. The braided line from the frame is -3an and the “tee” is -3AN male for the feed and 2x 3/8-24 female inverted flare. The same -3AN braided line is at the knuckles to the caliper. It took me a few hours to develop a parts list for the brakes since there’s so many ways to build it. Hope that help. I was able to reuse the front driveshaft. And the rear I’m probably going to use a double-Carden from Tom Woods or similar. I was able to use a plain angle grinder and chop saw for my exhaust... did you buy the kit with premade bends? They are the same diameter throughout so mine butt-welded ok. I actually pressure tested my Y-pipe before coating and I found like 6 small leaks from my lackluster welding skills. The wiring. Well, since I published this video I elected to go a different route with my intake and controller.... more to come! Hope all that helps! And good luck!
Thank you for the follow-up Bob. I really appreciate it. Any chance you would share your brake parts list with me? I gotta do something. The current set up isn't working. Also what flaring tool are your using? Yesterday, my neighbor introduced me to circular saw blade by Lenox (sold at Lowes) that works on a normal miter saw. It cuts mild steel very well - clean, no (or very little) burrs - and it's pretty accurate. That makes me feel better about building the exhaust.
Ted, i think with like 10 minutes on summit racing you can design it however you like. Start with 10” long speed flex lines -3AN to Banjo. Then convert from 3AN to a 3/16 flare female. I know that sounds confusing, but it’s really not. How can I share a document with you? Email?
Awesome job and attention to detail ❤❤❤
Great work. Has been a fun build to follow. Cant wait to see how it ends up.
Coming along great, I love your attention to detail
Great job Bob! Everything looks fantastic.
Thanks Mike! Project Rowdy looking great as always too.
I'm currently building one of my own cleaning up the tub of rust an the other junk. I'll be doing raptor liner aswell love the videos man keep it up!
What a job! Huge quality
Thanks man
Man! You are an expert builder!
This is going to be the sweetest jeep in the world , period!
Very clean!
Yes please do great videos your help is much appreciated
nice job,I m doing one now.I love the brake lines and how you did the front lock,through the bottom,nice,I put a 6"lift on mine BDS ,the idea is a 383/700r4/np231 ford 8.8 ,eventually I will get aftermarket axles but im getting tired of waiting.I miss it,Ive completely restored the frame and tub,did all the welding.trans and transfercase is ready for motor,your doing great job!!!!!!!!!!!!oh yea, I wish i coulda used those motor mounts.I got gen 1-2 ones from novake,lol,I dont need all them complication,mine will start after EMP ,,lol ...take care.
I have an 05 tj and I’m looking into an ls swap. Iv been following these videos for months!!
Bob, I've been watching your project and would like more specific part numbers for you choice of brake master cylinder and brake booster if you please. Also the length of the braided line from the clutch master to the slave cylinder. enjoy your ride, Eddie
Master cylinder and booster are from TuffStuff in Cleveland Ohio. They are generic GM replacements. The braided line is available from Novak Conversions, I don’t have the length handy.
Great video! I myself am restoring a 98 TJ. Have you thought of engine noise in the cab? Since it looks to be a daily driver, I highly recommend soundproofing the firewall now that its accessible as well as the hood. Keep up the good work!
Hi Bob, Thanks a again for such detail video's. I spy with my little eye a possible drain sink drain on the drivers side floor? If so, great idea. If not, what is the big hole used for? Secondly a question regarding your steering column, I noticed No ignition key on the column, will you be wiring one into the dash? Did you go with a tilt wheel or non tilt?
Hey Bob that looks awesome! I would like to know how much you figure you are into this project for. If you not comfortable saying no problem!
Hi Ben. Thanks for asking a difficult question in such a polite manner. When my project is complete I’ll detail all the associated costs for various portions of my Jeep. Maybe it will help someone plan for, budget for, and execute their own restoration. Anyways, I’m in the mid 20s so far and nearing the finish line.
Why did you not use stainless steel spring guards on the brake lines? Do you think they will be okay without them? Beautiful Jeep you're doing a great job!
Hi Jim, to be honest, I didn’t even think of the guards. Hopefully it’s not an issue!
Looks great! Did you end up keeping the bulkhead wiring harness that passes above the steering shaft?
Hey Justin. The factory bulkhead and fuse block was ruined by salt water. I’m going to use a Painless Harness that should fit in the same spot.
@@BobWilson84 nice. Id like to see how it comes out. I went with a Painless knock off when my harness fried a few years ago, and now that empty spot is just staring at me. I'm doing an LS swap as well, and was debating rewiring again just because I rushed it the first time. If that spot can't be used, I was going to make a filler plate to close the spot.
Good plan, if you can wait like a month or so I’ll post a video of the painless wire harness and bulkhead connector. I think it should be a direct fit with minimal modifications.
I think I’ve heard kids in the background in some videos. How do you make time for this incredible project? What’s your day job?
Yep, you have good ears! Both kiddos enjoy playing in my garage while I’m working. As for the time, well, I’m at 13 months so far into this project. Lots of weekends and evenings. As for my day job, I work for the power company.
I’m installing LS in my ‘88 Jeep YJ. Like the work you have done. What headers and exhaust Y pipe did you use?
Headers were from Novak which I think are Made by Sanderson. I made the y-pipe diy. None of the GM manifolds I found would clear the firewall or mounts.
@@BobWilson84 Thank you for the information. I like you design. Very Clean. I plan to use your design. Hope you don’t mind.
@@ibuildengines Go for it, just keep the ypipe away from the oil pan as much as possible. Good luck
link/part number for that clutch line? looks fantastic! I have the same setup (master and Novak slave) but the Novak cable they sent is waaaayyyy too long.
Hey Jason.... it’s a 24” long (I think). -3AN braided line. I found a 3AN adapter for the factory clutch Master, it’s by advance adapters. And the slave cylinder is some size inverted flare which is easy enough to convert to 3AN. Not sure about yours, but my clutch slave rod seems like it’s a little too short, the clutch grabs with the pedal nearly at the floor. Have you tried yours yet?
@@BobWilson84 nice, thanks! I think I might take my cable to a hydraulic hose shop and see if they can shorten it.
Haven't tested my clutch yet but I can probably get to it this weekend. Did you get the adjustable pivot ball from Novak as well?
Is the summit aluminum fuel line rated for fuel injection? I thought it was only rated to 25psi...
Hi Jason, I read conflicting reports too. Some say 25psi some say safe for high pressure EFI. I researched a lot and felt comfortable enough to try it. Once I installed everything I pressure tested up to 90psi with no problems -and I was just using the compression style pipe ends. No leaks, no signs of stress. My EFI is going to run at 43psi so I’m confident it’ll hold. From what I learned the vibration and rubbing is what really weakens aluminum so I used rubber isolated tubing clamps made for 3/8 and 5/16 line. Maybe I’ll regret aluminum down the road, but so far looks like it’s going to be good. Hope that helps.
Is that an OME 2.5 lift with 33's? I'd like to pull my 4 inch Rough Country lift and go with OME to improve ride quality but I'm told that 33's won't fit the 2.5 OME kit.....
They are actually about 31” tall. I think 33s would fit, but you would loose some of your travel and steering clearances.
That looks great. You've made a lot more progress than I have recently. House remodel got in the way. I do have some questions that I'm struggling with, if you don't mind.
Brake lines: Did you bend your own? (It looks like it.) What lines did you go with? Are the braided lines pre-made for brakes? What is that junction box (for a lack of the correct term) you have on the front axle that the brake lines run in to? How did you attach it to the axle tube? I'm really struggling with my brake lines. I bought a pre-made kit that doesn't fit. I'm thinking I may have make my own. I like how you ran yours.
What are you doing about drive shafts? I see you have the front. Did you buy a new one or re-build the factory one? What are you doing in the rear? I think I'm going with some Tom Woods drive shafts.
I have to re-do the driver side exhaust. It's right in the way of where the front drive shaft will run. I'm struggling with that too. I don't have a band saw to make clean cuts. The chop saw and angle grinder aren't doing the job. I'm thinking of buying some pre-made pie cuts to build it.
Oh, the wiring!! That was a job for me. I re-built the GM harness. I'm curious to see how yours comes out.
Hi Ted, I can understand how a house project can get in the way. Been there. Done that.
Brakes. I used 3/16 copper/nickel and double flared everything myself. It’s very easy to work work and bends by hand if needed. I welded 1/4 studs to the front axle to mount it. The blocks are called “tees”. The braided line from the frame is -3an and the “tee” is -3AN male for the feed and 2x 3/8-24 female inverted flare. The same -3AN braided line is at the knuckles to the caliper. It took me a few hours to develop a parts list for the brakes since there’s so many ways to build it. Hope that help.
I was able to reuse the front driveshaft. And the rear I’m probably going to use a double-Carden from Tom Woods or similar.
I was able to use a plain angle grinder and chop saw for my exhaust... did you buy the kit with premade bends? They are the same diameter throughout so mine butt-welded ok. I actually pressure tested my Y-pipe before coating and I found like 6 small leaks from my lackluster welding skills.
The wiring. Well, since I published this video I elected to go a different route with my intake and controller.... more to come!
Hope all that helps! And good luck!
Thank you for the follow-up Bob. I really appreciate it. Any chance you would share your brake parts list with me? I gotta do something. The current set up isn't working. Also what flaring tool are your using?
Yesterday, my neighbor introduced me to circular saw blade by Lenox (sold at Lowes) that works on a normal miter saw. It cuts mild steel very well - clean, no (or very little) burrs - and it's pretty accurate. That makes me feel better about building the exhaust.
Ted, i think with like 10 minutes on summit racing you can design it however you like.
Start with 10” long speed flex lines -3AN to Banjo. Then convert from 3AN to a 3/16 flare female. I know that sounds confusing, but it’s really not. How can I share a document with you? Email?
I’m just curious l, what size shop do you have ?
Hi. It’s an odd size but works for me. The shop area is about 28x66.
Omg this is awesome! Send me your address so I can bring you my 1990 yj...
Bring it over in April and we’ll get started!
Where you located?
In NE Ohio. And please..... don’t really bring it over. After this project I need a break.