I am the one who suggested using blankets to minimize leather reflections. It was very important with Audyssey, but perhaps not with ARC if you did not notice a difference. Anyway, I recently worked on my subwoofers, too. I felt the bass was lacking in punch, used Quick Measure and indeed nulls were present at 50Hz, 80Hz, and 100Hz. Utilizing QM, I optimized the locations for both subs and dialed in the combined response. I, too, could not affect nulls with phase, so location was my only option. Fortunately, I was able to almost mostly eliminate the nulls by placement. Like I said, phase did nothing, same as distance. Thanks for the videos and going over your experiences.
Thanks and it was easy enough to try your suggestion so at least glad I tried it. Glad to hear that you were able to make some improvements on your subs. Some things help and others don't but at least we can say we tried. Appreciate the comment.
The best way that I've found to fix nulls is to position the subs differently and even firing them directly against the wall leaving ~8" gap. Position the speakers the best you can and only then use room correction.
Definitely agree on the room position. In a previous video I went through the process because I had a huge null in the 50hz range but after some work I finally found a better spot and finally got rid of it. I haven't tried the facing against the wall option though so will try that at some point as well. Thanks for the tip!
@@RandomDistractionsYT It took me ~4 to 6 weeks before I left the sub position alone. Also, the better your subs the higher crossover that you can use. If you set your mains to small (~80 hz) than try your subs at ~90-100 hz.
@@Roof_Pizza Yeah, it definitely takes time, but I've said it before the good thing about it is that it does pay off when you finally get it sounding right.
I feel your pain. Tuning even a simple sound system can be a huge pain in the @$$. I've been adjusting mine for a couple of years. Luckily, I'm set with my speakers, their placement and I've finally got my sub blended well with those speakers. My system is a very budget 5.1.2, but everyone that hears it is grinning ear to ear during the demos. So, do not worry about having "high end" gear. Just enjoy the journey and be proud of what you have accomplished. Also, don't bother with measuring your system to death. Even if you get it tuned to the N'th degree you will always wonder if it could be better. Believe me - I know and still do wonder! Enjoy your day and have a great 2022.
A bit of a tuning tip: Setting the sub distance can be several feet further away than the AVR room correction says it should be. I used my SPL meter and a 60hz long running tone from UA-cam to get the loudest SPL in the room after changing the distance. Then I adjusted the crosovers of the speakers to get the blend nice and smooth. At proper blending the sub just melts into the speakers and the sub is no longer attracting attention to itself. Home Theater Gamer has plenty of good suggestion/demos/videos on tuning. Best of luck and have fun!
@@welderfixer Yes it can be a never ending quest but I will make sure to enjoy it as well. Thanks for the tip and will check out Home Theater Gamer's channel as well. Have a great 20222 as well!
Too bad the phase didn’t work out for you! I suspect it could be because your subs are both up front and mine are right front and left rear (per “REW crawl”)? I love all the ARC suggestions you’re sharing and am definitely going to try those out in the next week or so. Thanks!! … and I did pull the trigger yesterday on an A3/A2 combo for my base layer. Definitely a bad case of upgrade-itis is at play here and hopefully this route will provide a little more headroom with room to grow into some nicer speakers - without wanting yet a bigger amp when I do. Does it ever end?! lol
That's alright, I'm glad that I at least tried it and you are probably correct about it being the position since yours would be sending sound waves at each other as opposed to mine sending sound waves in the same direction. Thanks, hopefully some of those make a difference for you! LOL, yes that does sound like a classic case and unfortunately based on my experience it's a chronic condition. Congrats on the new gear!
Hey! Thanks for making these videos! Great content! I’m looking to buy an MRX-1140 in the next year or so. If I could offer any suggestions, it would be these: SBIR - the closer the speaker or sub is to the wall, the nulls move into the high frequencies (6” from speaker driver to wall = 557hz null). The further put into the room the null is moved lower (24” = 139Hz null). This is why it’s acceptable to turn a subwoofer sideways (being omnidirectional) and move the null up out of the 0-100hz range if possible. Second, have a look at HomeTheatreGuru’s videos (7+8) for subs. The phase issue and distance(delay) is usually a paired or summed relationship. Adjusting the sub distance 1ft at a time will show a change in the frequency response. Changing phase may not. You will need to use one sub as a constant, and then add the second subwoofer to sum them. Only changing settings on the second subwoofer to create a better relationship and visible changes on the graph. You need a mic for REW! So worth it!
Thanks and appreciate the suggestions. I've seen a couple of HomeTheatreGuru's videos but not sure that I have seen 7+8 so will have to look those up. Yeah, you are right, I think maybe a mic for REW may be in my future.
Its good that your testing put sub high f to 120 or 130 and have you tried eq with the svs app with quick measure before running arc i did wow what a difference on my svs 4000 pb
No I wouldn’t say that, it’s more that having the Emotiva helped when getting louder. As the volume went up it sounded good with the Anthem but certain sounds were lower and when switching to the Emotiva at the same louder volumes you could still hear everything. So listening at normal levels I didn’t notice the difference. I also like that the Anthem runs cooler now especially since I do like playing it loud when watching movies. 85dBs with 110dB peaks.
Hi there, I see you moved your minimum correction frequency to 60hz. Is there a reason why you’ve done this as Anthem suggest we leave that at minimum hz’s. The only thing I can think of is if you choose your subwoofer it self eq the correction up to 60hz. I think with SVS app you can do that.
The reason was that someone suggested to try it and since that video I haven’t done it in new runs for ARC. I’ve gone more with what Anthem recommends instead.
@@RandomDistractionsYT And also, would you say low volume usage for movies and music improved in anyway. Some people say that with a separate power amp their experience at lower volumes have improved noticeably i.e more detail at low volumes compared to before.
@@rayking507 I would agree with that as well. You can sort of achieve it without an amp using the Dolby Post Processing modes but I don't even use those anymore and even at lower volumes there is still just more presence of the sounds.
In my opinion I do think it is. I've heard good things about the NAD though and while I'm not familiar with the Onkyo it does seem to be a good value. I will say that knowing what I know now in how amps help, if you don't already have external amps I would actually suggest using more of the budget for amps. If you wanted to stick with Anthem the 740 can handle 11.2 channels and use the savings for purchasing an amp. There is also some interesting specs on that new Emotiva BasX MC1 processor for $999 and again use the rest of the money for amps.
Sorry, not sure I understand the question. For Atmos you need at least 2 height speakers. So you would have the 5 base layer (front left, center, front right, surround left, surround right) and then the height speakers. In my case I could actually power from the receiver the 5 base layer speakers and 4 atmos height speakers without any external amplification (5.2.4). The way I currently use the Emotiva amp is to power my 5 base layer speakers but don't have any atmos height speakers. When watching Atmos movies I only get a 5.2 experience since I'm missing the height speakers. So it would depend on how many speakers you have and what your receiver/processor is capable of. Let me know if that answers your question or if I misunderstood.
While it's definitely not the most high end system this is really one of the best systems that I've had and definitely enjoying it.
I am the one who suggested using blankets to minimize leather reflections. It was very important with Audyssey, but perhaps not with ARC if you did not notice a difference.
Anyway, I recently worked on my subwoofers, too. I felt the bass was lacking in punch, used Quick Measure and indeed nulls were present at 50Hz, 80Hz, and 100Hz. Utilizing QM, I optimized the locations for both subs and dialed in the combined response. I, too, could not affect nulls with phase, so location was my only option.
Fortunately, I was able to almost mostly eliminate the nulls by placement. Like I said, phase did nothing, same as distance.
Thanks for the videos and going over your experiences.
Thanks and it was easy enough to try your suggestion so at least glad I tried it. Glad to hear that you were able to make some improvements on your subs. Some things help and others don't but at least we can say we tried. Appreciate the comment.
The best way that I've found to fix nulls is to position the subs differently and even firing them directly against the wall leaving ~8" gap. Position the speakers the best you can and only then use room correction.
Definitely agree on the room position. In a previous video I went through the process because I had a huge null in the 50hz range but after some work I finally found a better spot and finally got rid of it. I haven't tried the facing against the wall option though so will try that at some point as well. Thanks for the tip!
@@RandomDistractionsYT It took me ~4 to 6 weeks before I left the sub position alone. Also, the better your subs the higher crossover that you can use. If you set your mains to small (~80 hz) than try your subs at ~90-100 hz.
@@Roof_Pizza Yeah, it definitely takes time, but I've said it before the good thing about it is that it does pay off when you finally get it sounding right.
I feel your pain. Tuning even a simple sound system can be a huge pain in the @$$. I've been adjusting mine for a couple of years. Luckily, I'm set with my speakers, their placement and I've finally got my sub blended well with those speakers. My system is a very budget 5.1.2, but everyone that hears it is grinning ear to ear during the demos. So, do not worry about having "high end" gear. Just enjoy the journey and be proud of what you have accomplished. Also, don't bother with measuring your system to death. Even if you get it tuned to the N'th degree you will always wonder if it could be better. Believe me - I know and still do wonder! Enjoy your day and have a great 2022.
A bit of a tuning tip: Setting the sub distance can be several feet further away than the AVR room correction says it should be. I used my SPL meter and a 60hz long running tone from UA-cam to get the loudest SPL in the room after changing the distance. Then I adjusted the crosovers of the speakers to get the blend nice and smooth. At proper blending the sub just melts into the speakers and the sub is no longer attracting attention to itself. Home Theater Gamer has plenty of good suggestion/demos/videos on tuning. Best of luck and have fun!
@@welderfixer Yes it can be a never ending quest but I will make sure to enjoy it as well. Thanks for the tip and will check out Home Theater Gamer's channel as well. Have a great 20222 as well!
Too bad the phase didn’t work out for you! I suspect it could be because your subs are both up front and mine are right front and left rear (per “REW crawl”)?
I love all the ARC suggestions you’re sharing and am definitely going to try those out in the next week or so. Thanks!!
… and I did pull the trigger yesterday on an A3/A2 combo for my base layer. Definitely a bad case of upgrade-itis is at play here and hopefully this route will provide a little more headroom with room to grow into some nicer speakers - without wanting yet a bigger amp when I do. Does it ever end?! lol
That's alright, I'm glad that I at least tried it and you are probably correct about it being the position since yours would be sending sound waves at each other as opposed to mine sending sound waves in the same direction.
Thanks, hopefully some of those make a difference for you!
LOL, yes that does sound like a classic case and unfortunately based on my experience it's a chronic condition. Congrats on the new gear!
Hey! Thanks for making these videos! Great content! I’m looking to buy an MRX-1140 in the next year or so.
If I could offer any suggestions, it would be these:
SBIR - the closer the speaker or sub is to the wall, the nulls move into the high frequencies (6” from speaker driver to wall = 557hz null). The further put into the room the null is moved lower (24” = 139Hz null). This is why it’s acceptable to turn a subwoofer sideways (being omnidirectional) and move the null up out of the 0-100hz range if possible.
Second, have a look at HomeTheatreGuru’s videos (7+8) for subs. The phase issue and distance(delay) is usually a paired or summed relationship. Adjusting the sub distance 1ft at a time will show a change in the frequency response. Changing phase may not. You will need to use one sub as a constant, and then add the second subwoofer to sum them. Only changing settings on the second subwoofer to create a better relationship and visible changes on the graph. You need a mic for REW! So worth it!
Thanks and appreciate the suggestions. I've seen a couple of HomeTheatreGuru's videos but not sure that I have seen 7+8 so will have to look those up. Yeah, you are right, I think maybe a mic for REW may be in my future.
Its good that your testing put sub high f to 120 or 130 and have you tried eq with the svs app with quick measure before running arc i did wow what a difference on my svs 4000 pb
Thanks and yes did do the EQ too. That SVS app is so handy, it's nice not having to walk and turn knobs on the back.
Seemingly, the amps internal to the MRX 1140 would be superior to those within the Emotiva. But, you found that not to be the case?
No I wouldn’t say that, it’s more that having the Emotiva helped when getting louder. As the volume went up it sounded good with the Anthem but certain sounds were lower and when switching to the Emotiva at the same louder volumes you could still hear everything. So listening at normal levels I didn’t notice the difference. I also like that the Anthem runs cooler now especially since I do like playing it loud when watching movies. 85dBs with 110dB peaks.
Hi there, I see you moved your minimum correction frequency to 60hz. Is there a reason why you’ve done this as Anthem suggest we leave that at minimum hz’s. The only thing I can think of is if you choose your subwoofer it self eq the correction up to 60hz. I think with SVS app you can do that.
The reason was that someone suggested to try it and since that video I haven’t done it in new runs for ARC. I’ve gone more with what Anthem recommends instead.
Hi there, just wondering if your Emotiva power amp sound better or different after its run in period.
No, they still sound the same to me. Which is to say that they still sound great.
@@RandomDistractionsYT And also, would you say low volume usage for movies and music improved in anyway. Some people say that with a separate power amp their experience at lower volumes have improved noticeably i.e more detail at low volumes compared to before.
@@rayking507 I would agree with that as well. You can sort of achieve it without an amp using the Dolby Post Processing modes but I don't even use those anymore and even at lower volumes there is still just more presence of the sounds.
@@RandomDistractionsYT Are you curious how your system will sound with Emotiva XPA5 Gen3. 😀
@@rayking507 For sure. I've been impressed what 95 watts is doing so could only image what 250 watts would do!
Is the Anthem a good receiver? Looking at T778 or even new Onkyo rz50
In my opinion I do think it is. I've heard good things about the NAD though and while I'm not familiar with the Onkyo it does seem to be a good value. I will say that knowing what I know now in how amps help, if you don't already have external amps I would actually suggest using more of the budget for amps. If you wanted to stick with Anthem the 740 can handle 11.2 channels and use the savings for purchasing an amp. There is also some interesting specs on that new Emotiva BasX MC1 processor for $999 and again use the rest of the money for amps.
Do you need emotiva for Dolby atmos. Or is 5 channel enough thanks.
Sorry, not sure I understand the question. For Atmos you need at least 2 height speakers. So you would have the 5 base layer (front left, center, front right, surround left, surround right) and then the height speakers. In my case I could actually power from the receiver the 5 base layer speakers and 4 atmos height speakers without any external amplification (5.2.4). The way I currently use the Emotiva amp is to power my 5 base layer speakers but don't have any atmos height speakers. When watching Atmos movies I only get a 5.2 experience since I'm missing the height speakers. So it would depend on how many speakers you have and what your receiver/processor is capable of. Let me know if that answers your question or if I misunderstood.
Best is anthem anthem 325 power amp or 5 channel
Now that I've heard what a low end amp can do, I'm sure those higher end ones can do wonders.