Thank you! I love this truck. Went off-roading with friends and never thought I would wheel this. It handles great. Have a trip this year to Moab coming up and doing a lot of upgrades to get ready.
I have 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers, 3" Rock Krawler X Factor no limits lift kit. Definitely got some use out of the Artec belly pan and all my control arm skid plates on this trail. Getting a good line on the few tough obstacles on this trail is a must.
@@overlandingfamily That is a hard question because I feel like I use them all. The belly pan is great for peace of mind. Nothing hitting in the mid section really bothers me as I can just slide over. The stock plates worked well but I would get stuck on the cross member and mangled that pretty good. The Artec belly pan actually increases the clearance as well. The Artec is also completely smooth so there is nothing to catch on unless you back onto something and catch the back of the transfer case skid. I have the Rock Hard 4x4 (front and rear) lower control arm and rear shock mount skid plates. Those get plenty of use by the scratches and gouges. I like those because I don't worry about a rock getting between the bold and arm and shearing it off. The latest ones I added because I was getting some damage are the Rusty's rear upper control arm skids. I was surprised how many times I would hit frame then those mounts. The JT is more of a mid arm and those hang down from the frame. They have saved those mounts a few times. Without the skids I would have to be a lot more cautious and get out to check where I am rubbing/scraping or hitting. I have the factory skid on the front axle disconnect and have hardly any scratched on that. I just put a single piece RCV axle shaft in so don't need to worry about FAD anymore but never thought about changing that skid. All of my skids are bolt in and did them myself. I would say the front lower control arm ones I have the most issues with because the way they mount and getting the bolts in there. The control/shock skids are pretty cheap and pretty easy to install. I would do those first as I did. Then just check when hitting/scraping in the mid section. Artec is expensive but gives more clearance and smooth bottom. Harder to install but did it with a buddy.
@@overlandingfamily Also, I would check your brake lines at full flex. The RK system is amazing for flex but I found my brake lines were stretched tight (especially in the back) when flexed out and that worried me. I haven't had a problem on previous trips but just added extended brake lines for extra insurance.
Nice dude! Love seeing a Glady out there slaying brag-worthy trails like this. Looking forward to seeing more content from you.
Thank you! I love this truck. Went off-roading with friends and never thought I would wheel this. It handles great. Have a trip this year to Moab coming up and doing a lot of upgrades to get ready.
What lift and tire size? Just want to make sure my rig can do this trail.
I have 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers, 3" Rock Krawler X Factor no limits lift kit. Definitely got some use out of the Artec belly pan and all my control arm skid plates on this trail. Getting a good line on the few tough obstacles on this trail is a must.
@@drrockf4d what skids would you say are the most important. I will be on 38s and rk no limit 3"
@@overlandingfamily That is a hard question because I feel like I use them all. The belly pan is great for peace of mind. Nothing hitting in the mid section really bothers me as I can just slide over. The stock plates worked well but I would get stuck on the cross member and mangled that pretty good. The Artec belly pan actually increases the clearance as well. The Artec is also completely smooth so there is nothing to catch on unless you back onto something and catch the back of the transfer case skid.
I have the Rock Hard 4x4 (front and rear) lower control arm and rear shock mount skid plates. Those get plenty of use by the scratches and gouges. I like those because I don't worry about a rock getting between the bold and arm and shearing it off.
The latest ones I added because I was getting some damage are the Rusty's rear upper control arm skids. I was surprised how many times I would hit frame then those mounts. The JT is more of a mid arm and those hang down from the frame. They have saved those mounts a few times.
Without the skids I would have to be a lot more cautious and get out to check where I am rubbing/scraping or hitting. I have the factory skid on the front axle disconnect and have hardly any scratched on that. I just put a single piece RCV axle shaft in so don't need to worry about FAD anymore but never thought about changing that skid.
All of my skids are bolt in and did them myself. I would say the front lower control arm ones I have the most issues with because the way they mount and getting the bolts in there.
The control/shock skids are pretty cheap and pretty easy to install. I would do those first as I did. Then just check when hitting/scraping in the mid section. Artec is expensive but gives more clearance and smooth bottom. Harder to install but did it with a buddy.
@@overlandingfamily Also, I would check your brake lines at full flex. The RK system is amazing for flex but I found my brake lines were stretched tight (especially in the back) when flexed out and that worried me. I haven't had a problem on previous trips but just added extended brake lines for extra insurance.