U.S. STOVE COMPANY 900 Square Foot Log Wood Stove...REVISITED ONE YEAR LATER...Tractor Supply Co.
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- Опубліковано 3 січ 2024
- I previously posted a video concerning this wood stove. This video answers many questions and concerns about the US Stove cast iron log wood stove-900 Square foot model.
Here is a link to the first video concerning the wood stove:
• U.S. Stove Company 900...
Tiny Log Home Build video:
• OFF GRID TINY HOUSE BU... - Розваги
Fantastic video! Has really helped me make a decision for my cabin
Thank you. Getting ready to install. Your input is very helpful!😊
Very well thought out video. Thanks for the information and your insight into this stove.
Great video- thanks for sharing!
Great job explaining!
This video is just as good as the first one. Nice follow-up.
Good video Chuck!
Thorough coverage on the complaints.
EXCELLENT VIDEO! Job well done
Excellent information and demonstration 😊
Nice informative article. Not what I expected for the low priced stove.
Good job, sir!
Thank you for the informative video. Watching in Amarillo Tx. Preparing to install my wood box in my cabin in Oklahoma.
Excellent information. Thank you sir.
I installed one of these stoves and find your video to be pretty helpful. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Much appreciated.
Great video I have a this very same stove installed in my garage Central Alberta Canada. It works really good
I'm about to finish up my little 12 x 12 workshop and am going to put a small wood stove in it. I put that very same red metal roofing on my shop! Way to go with that. I don't know if I have enough left over to make a decent heat shield but I'm gonna try. Very well done!!
Great info, I'm not sure if I can get this in California but I'll check with TSC
Good review. Judging from some of the comments the sound advice you gave came a little late for some.
Thanks for the update. When I purchased mine. There was one video that showed the model I have. This is a good reference for those who just purchased they first stove.
Thanks for watching and dropping a comment. Both are greatly appreciated!
I have this same stove. I drilled 6- 1/2” holes in the bottom of the stove door. 😂Stove now heats as you think it should from factory! I even have some bolts I stick in a couple holes because it gets too hot now!!
You’re welcome!
I also drilled holes in my door and I ripped that pad thing out and it works awesome now.
How many holes and how big? I actually want to heat water on the top of it for coffee and/or tea, so I took the pad off, too.
@@peterlogan2105 I DRILLED EIGHT HOLES AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR ON MINE ABOUT A PENCILS DIAMETER. BURNS GOOD NOW!
@@peterlogan2105 I drilled 7- 1/2” holes across the bottom of the door. About 2” up and across the front. I get it hot, then stuff bolts in the holes to use as air control. I put out 550* on front burner adjust flu in back to 2/3 closed and put 3 bolts in up front for a toasty fire.
Those fire starters are great, if you break them into 1/3 pieces and your wood is well seasoned they are more than sufficient to get your fire going and save some money.
Good review….the ash has to be removed if you heat over 5 hrs. It is warm and keeps the cabin toasty. The ash builds. Good review.
I have an extremely high end jotul 600. But im no snob. I had a Chinese box stove just like this and im saying they're great. They really work great.
very informative segment. love the little house. I've been looking at these stoves since before they were EPA approved and had the removable "cook circles". I've been burning wood in my homes for over 40 years and have had cast iron stoves, steel stoves, cat stoves and non cat stoves. currently have two in the house and one in the garage. I prefer the non cat, and a damper.....old school....lol. interesting that is has no way of controlling the air flow. have you ever overfired it? as for cooking, i think some folks are impatient and don't wait for the stove to come up to temp or they are using their cast iron and don't let those pans come up to temp either. thanks for the revisit. appreciate the information passed along here and addressing viewers comments and concerns.
Thanks for watching. I knew going in that it was a single burn rate. I’ve haven’t had problems with overheating but it can drive me out if I put to much wood in it! I control the output as best as I can with shorter pieces of wood not the full length of the stove. It’s oversized for my cabin but I can live with it.
Great video!
For years I worked with mechanics and trades people and I remember a few that would struggle for hours with something then say when all else fails might as well read the manual. 😊
I have the first iteration of the 1269e. It's a little different. It has an air intake on the bottom of the stove and two holes on the door . It doesn't have cross tubes in the secondaries, it just has holes drilled in the bottom of those square tubes that run along the top sides. It also has a damper pinned to one position in the stove pipe adapter.
This second version must work better . The original 1269e literally would not burn. Smoke poured out the door when opened. The top barely got warm. It was a nightmare. How it was sold is beyond me. I tried two and they both did the same thing. That's why people did whatever they needed to to get them to work.
I imagine people buy the new version like you have, and see all the videos of people modifying the original version and think that's what is needed on the new one. I have not used the new one so I have no idea how well it works. I can only say the first version didn't work at all without doing several modifications.
you can cut the crimp end off of the stove pipe going into the collar on top of the stove and it is a perfect fit without a gap or at least worked well for me.
I have same stove 5 yes works good no need to spend $2000 on a stove unless you have a really big house
Why do folks today put stoves inefficiently in a corner? Old photos place them in the center of the room where you gain much more heat from the pipe on its way to the chimney. Mine is centrally located in winter and tight in the corner all summer sitting on its stove casters.
Some ppl use a fan behind the stove for heat exchange, that's what I do in my shop and works good, and you don't have to worry about moving it
I never gave that any thought mine is piped out of a window so it's next to the wall -
I would not want it in the center of my living room or the one in my shop in the center of the shop -
I used seam pipe. It needed narrowing to reach the 3 anchor points. Used 2 pair of channellocks bend like /\/\/\/\ flex around.
Ya, bought one 5 yrs ago and the door was an issue. So was the false ceiling. It's loose and slides front to back and if it gets bumped it can block the flue
I've owned several wood-burning stoves in my lifetime and always wondered if your little stove would be worth the effort. I appreciate your thorough video. The flaw I see and what keeps me from purchasing it for my tiny house is that the only way to clean out the ashes is to shovel them out.
I love my large stove primarily for the ash clean-out drawer. I use that style of stove in my large home. However, I'm in search of a smaller stove with an ash clean-out drawer for my tiny house. would you happen to know of any?
Can use an ash vac…
Thanks, I didn't know about ash vacumes.
Hi! Love your videos. I have this same stove that I"m about to install in my workshop here in Michigan and I've been fretting about clearances to combustibles. What distance from the wall did you end up settling on? I'll be using cement fiber board (with 1-inch spacers) to create an insulated backer in the corner where I'm installing this, but hoping you could share some advice because the clearances listed in the stove's manual are pretty big.
I used the manual’s clearances. I believe the clearances decrease quite a bit for heat shields spaced from the wall though. I wouldn’t go closer because this stove can get really hot to the sides and back. Over time combustibles get easier to combust after repeated heatings. Be safe.
www.ctsweep.com/blog/two-little-known-causes-of-house-fires/#:~:text=Pyrolysis%20is%20also%20a%20little,structural%20fires%20throughout%20North%20America.
I like that wall temperature and clock. Where did you get that?
That stove has come a long way from the old design which actually was quite poor. It definitely needs an adjuster on the air intake, if it had that it coud be an awesome low cost heat source.
Hi great video, I’m thinking of purchasing this model. But I’m not sure what pipes to get. I’m new to all of this and I’m learning the verbage and function so I don’t hurt myself or others. Do you have a link for purchasing the pipe and roof sealers?? Thank you.
If I were you I would find a reputable retailer/installer with specifics of your situation. They would have what you need or be able to steer you in the right direction.
As a fire-starter, I keep a sealed bucket of sawdust saturated with fuel oil. One small scoop is all that's required to light it off.
Everytime I close the door, the fire smolders out? Do I need to pack it full of wood to get good draw?
Thanks for watching. I keep the door open an inch or so for about 10-15 minutes after starting. I use very well seasoned wood and build the fire top down. Kindling on top and that is lit. This warms your chimney quickly and starts a good draft. After closing your door you should be able to hear the air being drawn in through the vent in the door. You can’t miss the sound if you have a good draft. If you cannot hear the air being sucked in you do not have a good chimney draft and that’s when you would start trying to figure out what’s wrong with your chimney.
What kind of burn time you getting?
This is my second year of running this little stove. I have it installed in an old fireplace in our basement and it heats ok, but not fantastic. One thing that surprised me is how quickly it actually goes through hardwood. This is NOT a stove that you can just stoke a few large pieces for the night and expect it to slow-burn through to morning. A drawback of using a single-rate of burn stove and no damper. That said, I have a couple issues to note: 1. The door handle is horrible design and becomes loose after several open/closes, plus the angle of it is simply awkward. 2. The incredibly narrow space between the baffle and the sides/top means that it doesn't take much creosote and soot buildup to create an obstruction for your draft and then render your stove nothing more than a smoke box. (this is us now at 2 years). 3. The cast iron legs are thin and, as cast iron is brittle, they are prone to cracking if the stove is not handled with the utmost care when being moved. 3. Due to the design of the stove and the baffle, this thing is a royal PITA for cleaning. Since I have this backed into a fireplace, detaching the pipe/collar and moving the stove in and out every time for cleaning is a pain, but also considering US Stove recommends inspecting it every 2 months of use plus annual flue cleaning increases the frustration. Placing it as a fireplace insert is on me, but the design and difficulty and frequency with needing cleaning is on them, plus how difficult it is to service the baffle. I probably won't be buying any more of their products and will keep my eye out for an upgrade to replace this in our basement.
I have this stove and I hate the handle! mine never stayed on from the beginning and, you're right, it is at a weird angle. Not sure why mfr just didn't make the handle attached to the door like every other woodstove. It's a cheap stove, I understand, but it should be manufactured to at least function correctly.
@@bn2busy I picked up a new welder (as a Xmas gift to me) and thinking I may tack-weld the nut to the handle shaft on the inside of the door to prevent it from backing off when turning. Now, before anyone goes, "How the hell are you gonna get that off of there if you weld it?!", keep in mind that this is a $14 part that will likely never need to be replaced and, if for some reason it did, I will gain immense pleasure in cutting/grinding this damnable part to remove it. (only need to remove the weld spot, honestly). If it came down to actually replacing the handle, I'll likely reach out to one of the local forges or shops around here and have them make me one of a better design.
Did the door come with the seal? Mine did not plus your secondary air intake is different than mine
Yes it did. I’m guessing there isn’t much quality control in the Chinese factory where these are manufactured. With a price point of around $350 the factories aren’t employing the best foundry men, welders, assemblers etc.
I am curious,did the furnace cement come with stove. I cut the crimping off and it fits tight. I haven't burned yet but if it leaks I will ash cement or flour past the seam.
No it did not. Thanks for watching.
@@LancoAmish no, thank you for making these videos they were very informative and helpful I just got my us stove and I look forward to burning it this winter. It is new but I got it second-hand and I wasn't able to get the book with it so your video was very helpful.
I disagree about the damper. Having the ability to control the heat with a damper is what makes wood stove fire management possible. This gives you the ability to control the temperature and the rate of wood consumption. The way it's setup from the factory gives you NO control over the draw speed because the input tubes are wide open and the air inlet on the front door is wide open. I like to be able to pack it full of wood and shut it down a bit to preserve that wood all night or even longer. Otherwise your getting up all through the night to put more wood in the stove and open a window because it's too hot.
All this new fiber baffle board and air inlet tubes is how the manufacturer was able to use an old casting design to meet the most recent EPA requirements. The same design was used for many years without the fiber board filter and the open air inlet tubes. If you want an original style stove you'll have to get rid of those things and make a way to control the air inlets and use a damper to control the flue. I'm working on that on mine. An adjustable air inlet. But just removing that fiber board and installing a damper was a great improvement.
You can do as you please with the EPA compliant components of this stove. However, they’re will be a day in your neck of the woods, where because of alterations done to wood stoves, the EPA will back the banning of wood stoves entirely because of actions like yours. I’m not a fan of the EPA or those type of regulations but it will happen.
@@LancoAmish I don't disagree with the premise that they are getting more strict but it doesn't have anything to do with how many old stoves there are in use or who did what with a new stove. It's just the way of the world. Also, my cabins and wood stoves are so remote that the EPA will never know. Makes me no mind anyway...I build my last stove from scratch and would do it again if need be. If I do buy another new one I will modify it to conserve wood and not blow through it like a torch...because that is better for the environment than using three times as much wood. Think about not only the amount of extra wood it goes through but a person has to leave a door open to keep from roasting, and the gas and oil it took to cut the wood, and probably transport it. The way I manage my fires it only takes a small amount of wood...keep it on a trickle and use very little. The U.S. before my modifications would go through so much wood and I wouldn't even get all the heat because of the white fiber board blocking so much of it.
I also have that stove and I have a damper in the pipe about six inches above the stove, and I use a ball of tin foil to close up part of the air intake in the door when needed, and yes I control my burn that way.
@@thirdsamuel6643 awesome comment...I use part of the white smoke filter that I took out of the firebox to do that but it tends to crumble so I'm working on a more stable and permanent solution preferably utilizing a temperature controlled spring to auto open and close an air gap.
Thank goodness mine was bought by my parents b4 all the emmisions bs had to be added to them and gave it to me unused. The reburner works really well when in a new furnace design with a catalytic converter and other advancements, it works horrible by itself.
A $300 stove won't be good, with or without secondary burn. There is a reason stoves get expensive and it's all about the quality. Burning less wood pays off eventually. Cheap fast burning stoves have their place but in a house isn't one.
Ok maybe ask some people that have actually used them 30 plus years instead of guessing
If you put it all the way in it doesn't have a gap.
First thing i did was remove the cardboard and it burns way better
What is the burn time fully loaded.
Thanks for watching. About 6-7 hours with coals to restart if you burn good hardwood. It’s not that roomy inside.
You should do a video trying to navigate those stairs after a few cocktails
I think you’ve had one to many yourself today.
Show me the Cadillac converter in that stove
No catalytic converter in this stove.
My Grandad always had a washtub on the back porch with kindling stacked on end and then poured in kerosene.All you needed when you wanted to start a fire was one or two pieces and a match. I use a 5 gallon bucket with the kindling and some kerosene with a lid on it. So easy to start a fire and it’s cheap..
The clay stuff is like a catalytic converter. And it will clog up if not burning hot enough 😮 and will clog up.
Mine is a really old model & needs to be sealed around the joints. Mine is definately not very efficient.
I’ve been burning wood since the mid 90’s and have used a lot of stoves. I don’t care how people rave about these little stoves, their only for recreational use in a weekend cabin or something like that. Not for real a working stove. You want a good stove, pay the money for a real stove. I’ll be replacing mine with a cook stove before next winter. If you’re on a budget, get yourself one of the old Ashley wood stoves. Those are absolutely amazing and really damn good for cooking.
What's your opinion on the Atlanta Stove Works Atlanta Georgia 27 Box? That's what I am using in my VERY small cabin, it's plumbed out the window. Mine doesn't have a damper. Unfortunately my stovepipe is OVER the collar. Third winter with my stove.
Is it possible to bank coals in this stove for overnight burning?
I only get 4-5 hours of burn time out of mine, coals are dead in 6.
@@AdvantureRoad same time frame with my Atlanta Stove Works 27 Box
@@AdvantureRoad same time frame with my Atlanta Stove Works 27 Box
I'm thinking of buying this stove and placing it in my fireplace because my fireplace is almost useless for heat. I want to do this because i want to avoid installing the chimney and allowing the smoke/draft to flow up my existing fireplace chimney. Is this a bad idea? It appears that this is small enough to fit in my fireplace.
I have this stove and I'm not sure, but that doesn't sound like too bad of an idea, maybe you could even get a small section of pipe to make sure the smoke makes its way into the chimney
@@diegoruiz7600 thanks for the info friend
That's what I did last year in our finished basement. Only problem I encountered was having to cut a notch out of the iron damper plate in order to fit the flue liner through it. Having it in the fireplace as an insert has been good in that I don't have to worry about combustibles on 3 sides, and once the bricks of the fireplace heat up they radiate warmth for some time after the stove has died down.
@@Archtraveler exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you both!
@@TheSigmaWolves To be clear, I'm not just letting the smoke draft up through the existing brick/terra cotta chimney; I installed an insulated liner kit (25' of it!!) and fed that down through the damper plate to the wood stove. After experiencing a chimney fire as a child (wood stove running hot in a 200-yr-old chimney), I will forever insist upon having a liner insert when using a woodstove or woodstove insert. Plus, this little stove just doesn't have sufficient heat energy output to properly draft a standard home chimney, in my opinion. You'll run cool inside there for too long and build up an excessive amount of creosote, creating a fire hazard. That's my 2-cents, even though US Stove instructions do provide for just plugging it into your existing chimney.
I'm curious, your tiny house looks small Sq. Ft. wise. Does this stove drive you out of the house? We are building a 288 sq ft tiny house and I'm worried this stove will be way too much.
Mine is smaller. It gets real warm in there especially in the loft. I build only small fires to control the heat. It’s a single burn rate stove so you can’t really control the output except by the amount of fire you have inside.
@@LancoAmish thank you for your response. I posted while watching your video and had not gotten to the part where you explained that it gets way too hot for your tiny house. I'm looking at the Dwarf 4kw wood stove for the space I am wanting heat in.
Mine works unbelievable after I cut all the epa bs out of it. Just a grinder and a cut off wheel. Boom instant heat❤😂😅😊😊😊
Mine wont even burn good little lone get hot enough to cook on it .
If that is the case you more than likely have a poor drafting chimney set up. Too many elbows, chimney not high enough above roofline, or a chimney cap too close to the top.
Another possibility in poorly seasoned wood.
I paid $400.00 for one at tractor supply its crap freeze me to death .
Can you put a 90 degree out a window or a side wall instead of roof
I have the same stove and I did run the pipe out a window, I used two corrugated ninites and don't have a problem with it.
@@thirdsamuel6643 how high did you go up with external pipe
@@jerryturner-lo1zf I used four sections of two foot single wall stove pipe.
@@thirdsamuel6643 did you go above the eve or the ridge and do you have any problems with back draft
@@jerryturner-lo1zf I have this stove in a twenty seven foot fifth wheel trailer and I'm about four feet above the roof and I don't have any problems with back draft, I've had wood stoves before, even had one in a twenty foot teepee so I know a little about safety and stove pipes, I only used one double wall stove pipe in this trailer and that was where the window was, I have concrete board inside and outside that the double wall pipe passes through.
Thanks so much for making this video. Now, I know for sure that I will not purchase this particular wood stove. There is absolutely nothing that I like about it. Appreciate it!
Always happy to help.
😅
Bought one last year & promptly threw it out this year, waste of money, door latch is trash. Scrap metal.
You threw it out because of the door latch?
My question is if you can't remove that thing that makes it burn more efficiently how you going to clean it
Brush and vacuum just like you would with any ash buildup in any stove.
@@LancoAmish my good sir I am well aware that you use a brush and a vacuum my question refers to how do you get the brush and vacuum to that location with that insert thing in the way are the burners on top removable does that thing come out and can be put back in and please excuse my ignorance in this subject the wood stove I have is a pot belly and it doesn't have any of that
@@rain420war , the tubes inside are able to be taken out. The kaowool pad is a part in the parts diagram that can be ordered so I am assuming it can also be replaced, taken out. The top of the pad is also accessible through the flue collar after pipes are detached. It shouldn’t be too difficult to get in their with a vacuum hose attachment.
@@LancoAmish thank u
I have this same stove and it is crap! It leaks smoke from all the casting joints. It will NOT heat 900 square feet unless that means just keep it above freezing. I didn't expect it to be the best stove I'd ever had because it was so cheap but I didn't expect it to be so badly built. To make it usable, I had to seal all the casting joints with refractory cement and, even then, it's the worst stove I've ever used. It's worse than the cheapest tent stove I've used (and they were just cheap sheet metal from China). Buyer beware on this stove!
Is your stove pipe and chimney installed correctly with a good draft, and are you burning well seasoned hardwood?
yes on both points-chimney installed per directions and wood is seasoned 2 years and kept dry. When I say it leaked from the castings, I mean they are not airtight from the factory. Where the plates join together leaked smoke. It was not a sealed stove (might as well have a firepit inside). Some have good experiences with this stove, so the QC at the factory must be hit or miss. Mine is junk. I'm glad others are having good experiences. I took a chance on a cheap stove and I got burned. @@LancoAmish
but i did enjoy your video. and I'm glad someone got a properly made one of these stoves and it's performing as promised. Keep on making videos.
Why do you have stove brick? In the bottom of it you’re not supposed to with this particular stove
your 600 degree reading are incorrect that cast iron would be red hot at that temperature and in severe danger of cracking and causing a firehazard
Thanks for watching. Im assuming you’re talking Fahrenheit since that was what I was using. Cast iron will start to glow red at around 900 degrees Fahrenheit. You might see a color change around 800 in a very dark room. Cast iron shouldn’t distort up to 800 or so. 600 degrees is well within a a safe range for wood stove surfaces. I’ve cleaned cast iron cookware in hardwood coals until glowing red with no warping.
@@LancoAmish yes i did mean farenheit
ive cleaned pans in coals and gotten them red hot although that isnt the method i use anymore now my preferred method
is a vinegar bath (using white house brand vinegar because it has a higher percentage of acidity as for wood stoves you absolutely dont want the metal to get
anywhere near glowimg red it can warp
i prefer to run my heater with the damper partially closed it prevents the heater from getting anywhere near temps that could warp it or crack the metal
also at 500 degrees that flue pipe is getting mighty hot and its really thin
(or at least what im able to buy here in the south is very thin pipe) these old heaters have caused more than a few house fires due to overheating the metal
and the flue pipe im assumimg thats because houses typically here in the south houses built before 1950 or so typically werent built with inulated walls
due to the excessive heat here so durimg the winter momths woodstoves had to be ran pretty hot all the time to heat a room (back then you didnt heat the whole house you heated the most used rooms ) im modern times we dont hear much about a woodstove or fireplace causing a fire im assuming thats because they dont have to be ran 24/7 at high temps much anymore agaim assuming thats due to better insulation better seals around wimdows and doors and just better building materials all together plus we have ways of circulatimg the air that didnt exist in the old days
i hope that you can find the time to che k out my latest video cooking on a woodstove part 1 & 2 you might find it useful or entertaining and at the very least gain an umderstanding as to why people say you cant cook on a modern reburn system stove take a look and leave comment if you feel so inclined
Me and my wife bought a wood stove just like that one in the video. It did not have the 6" damper in the kale wool that was packed inside the top of the stove cought on fire the flue pipes was cherry red from the flames going up from the stove. Now before you make a reply comment I'm 68 years old I grew up around wood stoves and I've been using wood stoves all my adult life. So I read all the instructions and understood the instructions that came with the wood stove. So it's buyer be aware when buying products from China like this wood stove. Like I've said in my first comment I'm 68 years old if been around wood stoves all my life and I know how to make a fire inside a wood stove.
If Kaowool caught on fire the temps were over 2600 degrees Fahrenheit. How did you manage that?
@@LancoAmish I doubt that the stove was not over 2600 degrees Kaowool cought on fire with in 20 second's of starting the fire in the stove so it did not I will repeat it did not have the time to get to 2600 degrees or over. I laid a small amount of kennelin in the stove just like the instructions instead. So heat was only 65 degrees. So it just goes to show that just because some companies lays clams to a product being fire proof is not always true. So you figure how the Kaowool cought on fire at 65° Fahrenheit. We are talking about a Chinese made product and we all know that Chinese made product is not of quality.
Seems like a nice stove but I cannot for the life of me figure out why that collar for the stove pipe is so big?? Very poor flaw that you have to fill the gap with cement?? every other stove seems to get the size right except this company? Bit of a joke really just saying! now to clean that chimney you have to reseal it with cement not very practical in my eyes! Perhaps they have an adapter for the collar? or was missing? 🙂
well i wont be buying that stove
the crimped end of the pipe is not supposed to be in the flue collar its supposed to be shoved into a another pipe as for that ksolwool take it out it will cause clogging issues maybe not right away but it will cause clogging
the epa really screwed up on this one
theyve ruined woodstoves
Has anyone noticed the wood stove is called U.S. cast iron wood stove. When it's not made in the U.S. it's made in China. So shouldn't it be called China cast iron wood stove.
Can not will not should not buy Chinese
I understand your sentiments. However, what device did you watch the video on and comment from?
These stoves are junk.
Could you expand on your opinion with some specifics why you are saying they are junk?
I feel like you are a priest or a boy scout leader.
Why would someone tell the world they are an idiot? Can you explain your sophomoric comment? (I’ll give you a minute to look up the big word).
Gary stop making videos and take care of your children
Huh?