@@RestoreIt Copper will do the job just as well as Brass. It needs to be heavy copper bar, and it needs to be clean, Polish it up, clamp it in the rear and weld away. 😉
Beautiful job! You've come a very long way with your welding talents. I'm not a welder at all, but I always love the phrase "A grinder and paint make you the welder you ain't"
Great stuff, Steve. I gotta say you have come a long way with the welding. You have improved a lot! Keep at it, we're all behind you and want to see this E30 resurrected as soon as possible!
Mate, that's an insane amount of effort! I don't know anything about E30's so I trust that it's worth it. Good on you for having a go, and sharing this with all of us. Looking forward to the next vid.
Thanks mate! I don't think anyone would do what im doing to make money. I'm just doing it to this car because I drove it daily for 6 years and so it has sentimental value to me. Theres only one of these in the world so to speak. Cheers mate
Nice to see the work restarted on the E30. I would cover your hands and arms when welding though. Loads of UV light is produced during welding and the damage builds up over time. Your future skin will thank you.
What's truly amazing is, how young and dedicated to this project!!😲😲🤯 That's an incredible amount of work on a common car like this one!! You are basically rebuilding the whole car from the bare frame!!
Keep up the great content producing! When you try to weld up the small rust pinholes, and the sheetmetal is thin, then try to hold a piece of brass behind. the brass piece will take the heat away from the panel, and you weld wont stick to it :) - Just a idea maybe. - Marc - Denmark
First, you need to up your welding game by warming up. You do not do this every day all day long, so warm yourself up every day. Before you start the day, grab some similar material and practice for 5 minutes. Then do it on your car. Huge time and frustration saver: 1. Cut all the pieces out at the same time, then cut filler pieces. Cut the filler pieces long -- less chance of burning out the bottom corners. 2. Tack everything - you will notice your tacking is better at the end -- this is because of muscle memory kicking in. This can be a reason why some welds are good and some not so good. But, mostly, metal density, etc. plays a huge role. Also, that primer can create a millisecond difference in arc formation. Getting CONSISTENCY is what you're after and that would mean cutting your wire after every spot, clean surface, etc. That is too much to ask for so keep doing what you're doing. 3. Once tacked, finish all welds. If you notice your welds are better at the end, it's muscle memory. This is normal. You don't do this welding every day all day. 4. Rough grind everything at the same time 5. Fill pinholes all at the same time 6. Cut off bottom of filler pieces and grind everything to finish state, then prime Try to keep all the processes separated -- this will make you much more efficient and keep your stress level down because the clock won't be eating at you so much. As someone else mentioned, clamp copper or brass plate tightly behind welds - but not necessary. If you do this, practice first.
@@RestoreIt Awesome. You have done some amazing work and clearly you have a drive and talent for it. Welding is just like the old chess adage: easy to learn, lifetime to master. Thin sheet metal is notoriously hard to weld, especially with MIG. And the other adage: "A grinder and paint makes a welder what he ain’t". There are times when a grinder and paint is the right solution. Good luck and looking forward to see you experiment with your processes. If this becomes your career you should always look out for opportunities to increase efficiency and lower costs (increase profit). Experiment with everything and see what works for you, and practice, practice, practice.
Really enjoying this series, you are doing an amazing job. One observation; I noticed on the rear corner repair that you didn't cut all of the rusty metal out. The repair piece should have been twice the size to replace all of the pitted thin rust damaged metal. Generally I find If you are blowing holes welding the butt joint, then you haven't removed enough of the old metal.
Good work Steve. We are all learning as we go. I am 70 now and am still learning. Some points: sometimes MIG welds do not go perfectly, there will be a reason, but who cares really. Just re-weld the ones you are not happy with. I have seen the rust pits under what looks to be a perfect finish on all of my projects. My theory is that they are from the factory, or perhaps the finish coating may look perfect but is actually porous. Finally, chemical paint strippers are so annoying now. Most of them have had all the active ingredients removed I'm afraid. Have you seen Cooper stripper (from New Zealand I think)? It is very expensive, but if your project was big enough might still be worth buying.
Love these videos you make. Its a lot of work, I'm almost done with my E30 and its been over 2 years now. looking forward to next video. BTW, your welding is getting good.
Really awesome work man, so cool to see your E30 projects underway again - it makes me want to get my E30 Touring fully sorted! Looking forward to the next video and also the final video on the Mercedes!
I HIGHLY recommend a proper spot welder, after years of doing plug welds, I bit the bullet and bought one. I have a Miller and I can put an outer rocker on a classic Mini in about 5 minutes now. I plan on getting longer/different shaped tongs as funds allow so I can get into different spaces. Great video, keep up the good work!
You should look into a dustless/wet media blaster for cleaning sheet metal panels. No dust, it keeps the panels cool, and the stronger ones will take off under seal, filler, pretty much everything.
For small spots that you are welding you can press a brass plate behind it. That's how I learned it. It's very quick. That's how I rebuilt an Opel Astra F. Big holes with new sheet metal. Then all welding seams with tin. (sorry my englisch ist not the best :P)
I also have a problem with one weld being clean, and another nearby weld not being as nice. I would also be curious as to why. I've wondered if it's a voltage issue (I have to run my welder on an extension cord, as I don't have enough outlets in my garage). The best thing about being able to do things like this for yourself is as BMW E30/36/46 chassis skyrocket in value (with the quality of work you do) is that you could flip them for huge profits. Loving the progress!
You can use an old single edge blade to score the paint prior to applying paint stripper. That way it allows the stripper to attack the paint from underneath as well as on top.
Your welding looks great! And of course, I appreciate your OCD on this as I would be the same way. Nice length on this one and really looking forward to more.
I like to use Corroless S rust inhibiting primer from Arc-rite on bare steel , it's available in cans for brushing and spraying and also aerosols . I use it on my restoration and my other vehicles. It's worth trying some. Loving how this restoration is coming along.
Thanks Hammy! I'm kind of following the Novol for classic cars range. Check it out, it looks pretty unbeatable in terms of classic car restoration and protection 👌🏼
Water resistance of paint, even epoxy, depends on the period in which the painted object is exposed to water. And in practice, the car is exposed to thousands of rain showers or washes in a car wash only, without a problem. However, if you put it under water for a longer period of time the thin layers of OEM paint will not turn out to be waterproof. When a brand new car is flooded for several months, the rust, as it had developed on the inside of your fender under the OEM paint, will also develop here. But that never happens in reality. What I would do is at the moment the car is completely welded, so tight from front to back, is acid dip it, e coat it, and only then make it tight, paint it and put it together. Keep up your fantastic work!
Cool video, nice to see like this rust repair...But must say in 32:20, it looks like top off that space what you are making new, is also rust or surface rust, also I would at least brush the background of the welding with a steel brush at the point where you has welded
I'm glad to hear it, LV! Happy to have you onboard. The channel is going through a huge equipment and workshop upgrade right now, but the usual content schedule will resume asap! Cheers
I use paint stipping discs for the angle grinder, the black sponge looking ones. They are quite effective, you just need to watch out not to put too much heat in a single spot and move on if you see any sparks. They are much easier on the metal than those metal brushes. Another idea just in case: panel bond your wheel arches to the inner wheel well when the time comes.. by far the best solution for this rust sensitive area. Dont spot weld if you can get your hands on panel bond. Adding to this comment as I watch: dont complain about weld quality if you wont bother to clean paint off first. Also, get yourself a bit of copper.. makes bridge welding easier when you clamp it behind the hole. When welding a gap, start from the outside going in, that way you dont have any heat in the panel when welding the most blow-out sensitive bit.
I have these discs, i just didnt know they were paint stripper discs. So you'll see those next episode. The red primer is weld through haha... its specifically designed to be welded through. Good advice on the inner wheel arches, that is currently the plan.
@@RestoreIt Weld through is good, but in my experience it does affect weld quality. You mostly want it when sandwiching panels, when everything is open you can clean around the weld and repaint after. When spotwelding manually (with a drilled hole), it still pays off to use a flat drill bit to clean the paint off in the area that will receive the weld, just to make 100% sure the weld will stick. Use a cavity protection product afterwards (I like Noxudol).
A MIG (or, even better, MAG) welder makes dealing with small fires easy: Your shielding gas is mostly CO2 and your machine probably has some "post-flow" (keeping the gas flowing after the trigger is released to shield the end of the weld until it cools down a bit), so just tap the trigger to release the gas and you can use the torch as a tiny fire extinguisher.
I've never seen this kind of primer for paintguns. I've only used spraycan versions. I'd really appriciate if you could tell us what product are you using. Also it's mad to watch that that donorcar had sportseat seats? in. where I live those are already so rare and go with mad prices. Overal. It's relaxing to watch you work on it. I've welded my e28 and can agree that it takes a lot of time. Keep up the good work!
Hey Magnus, you must have skipped a bit as I always tell you what paint im using. I reallt showed it off in the second return episode. All the info is inside the videos. The donor car didnt have sport seats, no. They're Just houndstooth standard seats. Cheers!
This may be an unpopular opinion among body workers, but I would advice using rutile flux core wire as it has supreme penetration properties and the welds are almost flat when doing spot welds. Still be cautious with amps because it's really potent.
If you can manage to find a Tecna spot welder, you should be fine, they are somewhat old and should be able, to found at a decent discount. But they may still be pricy, but again new ones cost like 12000£. You could also ask a bodyshop, to loan theirs (i.e. you bring the car there) I can see one is available for 12000 dkk here in Denmark, with a pin puller as well
@@RestoreIt fully understandable. In most OEM repair manuals, they even say you can substitute spot welds, with MIG spot welds. But if you can, I'd rent some hours at a local bodyshop, to use theirs.
Do yourself a favor and get a right angle die grinder with 2 inch roll lock flap discs. Got a battery powered one myself and I use it more then my angle grinders since I got it.
Sometimes adding heat to paint stripper (a portable heater, etc) can make them more effective. Not sure it’s necessarily good for the lungs, but might be worth a try.
You're a legend, such eye for detail and craftsmanship. Small question, is your Bose headset blocking any sounds. Like I know it has noise cancellation but is it the same as a propper hearing protection.
Cheers Jibbe! And yes they are so so good at stopping sound. Even with a podcast playing, i can barely hear the grinder right next to my face. Highly recommended!
Spot welder for hire Ted Bar Tinker looks reasonably priced or buy new direct from Clarke Tooling. If you intend lots of spot welding, probably cheaper to buy new.
On the rear of the sill, you should have cut a bit bigger. If you commit to cut a panel, then might as well cut out the whole area with obvious pitting. Your end result looks superb however.
I don’t know if you have tried it,but I use aviation paint stripper ,it has not disappointed.just a idea.you’ve come a long way,and still a lot to do,but hey that’s why you do this to yourself,the challenge and final finish.just keep telling yourself that,over and over and over.yea sure sure Lol good video.just keep doing what your doing and carry on 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Hi Steve! Why are you using this kind of rust protection colour? I think it‘ s a 1k paint, right? Have you ever considered to use a 2k with epoxy? I use always Mipa EP 100-20 2K-EP-Grund and you don‘t have ever issues with rust. Cheers Wiili from🇦🇹
It's always a thrill to watch something being renovated.. =) Can't wait to do it myself on my "boxy", although I have some more things first, which will take some time. You're doing great, neat work. I also prefer butt welds whenever possible, as you can dress, shape, flatten,clean and those will never rust once painted. Lap joints are also inevitable, so I can give you 2 advices to take care of those. Once welded and ground nice, wet the seam between the parts by capillary action with some rust inhibitor or remover, leave it to do it's job for some time and then blow it through the seam with compressor gun. Leave it to dry completely, then apply some half thinned paint again by capillary between the joint and give it some help with compressor gun. Leave to dry and the seam should be protected as much as you can do it. Cheers, hope it helps.
Good to see some progress again! I see you're using a Mannesmann toolbox too! I have the same and the quality of it is amazing, sadly my case has a broken divider and clamps so I'm left with two open halves haha. Keep up the good work! Kind regards, Martin
Why didn't you drill out the spot welds and remove the quarters that way? It would leave the structures that you don't need fully intact, whereas doing your way wastes quite a bit. I think having the quarters installed, at least with just a few spot welds would make for a better working platform and if you feel you might have to be able to work the metal from the backside you can just grind off those few tacks you've put in. Take it off, do your work, an tack back up. To wit, getting that wheel arch perfect. That's going to have to be on the car to fit just right with the inner, I think anyway. Not coming off and on again, only to be set in a slightly different spot each time.
@@RestoreIt I'm talking about the donor car's quarters. It's quicker to go for the chop as you did, but now you're going to have to go back afterward with a lot of trimming that slows you down IMO. Anyway, good luck with this project. Keep plugging away friend.
Always make sure you have a good ground, bare metal- clean bit of that primer and then clamp earth. Never start weldind when you have ball at the end of welding wire, trim it
@@RestoreIt yes, I know primer is weld through, but with low welder settings - 15-17V, 60-80Amps you don't want any possible electrical isolation. Clean only where you clamping earth clamp, not where you welding. Great work, I enjoy watching 👍
@@RestoreIt so glad to see this project finally moving along (as I’m sure you are as well, haha) but I’m wondering surely there MUST be a liquid paint stripper out there *somewhere* that will just DESTROY anything in its way that you could use?! All that damnable wire wheel work has to be tedious!!! Have you had any suggestions yet?!
If you want to close holes you can put a piece of brass behind it. It's giving you a nice surface in the back and helps with heat
Cheers David, I just bought a load of copper for this job. I'll get some brass as well.
@@RestoreIt Copper will do the job just as well as Brass. It needs to be heavy copper bar, and it needs to be clean, Polish it up, clamp it in the rear and weld away. 😉
Beautiful job! You've come a very long way with your welding talents. I'm not a welder at all, but I always love the phrase "A grinder and paint make you the welder you ain't"
You have an immense amount of patience!!! Credit to you!
Thanks Cossy!
Great stuff, Steve. I gotta say you have come a long way with the welding. You have improved a lot!
Keep at it, we're all behind you and want to see this E30 resurrected as soon as possible!
Thanks dude! It was the mercedes that forced me to get better at welding... every cloud has a silver lining i guess!
Mate, that's an insane amount of effort! I don't know anything about E30's so I trust that it's worth it. Good on you for having a go, and sharing this with all of us. Looking forward to the next vid.
Thanks mate! I don't think anyone would do what im doing to make money. I'm just doing it to this car because I drove it daily for 6 years and so it has sentimental value to me. Theres only one of these in the world so to speak. Cheers mate
Nice to see the work restarted on the E30.
I would cover your hands and arms when welding though. Loads of UV light is produced during welding and the damage builds up over time.
Your future skin will thank you.
And result in a nasty sunburn! Ask me how I know!
Glad you're enjoying it Leigh. And you're not wrong. I really should cover up more, especially as i'll be doing so much.
What's truly amazing is, how young and dedicated to this project!!😲😲🤯 That's an incredible amount of work on a common car like this one!! You are basically rebuilding the whole car from the bare frame!!
Keep up the great content producing!
When you try to weld up the small rust pinholes, and the sheetmetal is thin, then try to hold a piece of brass behind. the brass piece will take the heat away from the panel, and you weld wont stick to it :)
- Just a idea maybe.
- Marc - Denmark
Damit. HAHA this is the same what i do^^ Brass Welding is very good.
Cheers Marc! I've just got a load of copper for this, but i'll get some brass as well
First, you need to up your welding game by warming up. You do not do this every day all day long, so warm yourself up every day.
Before you start the day, grab some similar material and practice for 5 minutes. Then do it on your car.
Huge time and frustration saver:
1. Cut all the pieces out at the same time, then cut filler pieces. Cut the filler pieces long -- less chance of burning out the bottom corners.
2. Tack everything - you will notice your tacking is better at the end -- this is because of muscle memory kicking in. This can be a reason why some welds are good and some not so good. But, mostly, metal density, etc. plays a huge role. Also, that primer can create a millisecond difference in arc formation.
Getting CONSISTENCY is what you're after and that would mean cutting your wire after every spot, clean surface, etc. That is too much to ask for so keep doing what you're doing.
3. Once tacked, finish all welds. If you notice your welds are better at the end, it's muscle memory. This is normal. You don't do this welding every day all day.
4. Rough grind everything at the same time
5. Fill pinholes all at the same time
6. Cut off bottom of filler pieces and grind everything to finish state, then prime
Try to keep all the processes separated -- this will make you much more efficient and keep your stress level down because the clock won't be eating at you so much.
As someone else mentioned, clamp copper or brass plate tightly behind welds - but not necessary. If you do this, practice first.
Excellent piece of advice. Theres not much i can say in response other than you'll see me try this next episode. Cheers!
@@RestoreIt Awesome. You have done some amazing work and clearly you have a drive and talent for it. Welding is just like the old chess adage: easy to learn, lifetime to master. Thin sheet metal is notoriously hard to weld, especially with MIG.
And the other adage: "A grinder and paint makes a welder what he ain’t". There are times when a grinder and paint is the right solution.
Good luck and looking forward to see you experiment with your processes. If this becomes your career you should always look out for opportunities to increase efficiency and lower costs (increase profit). Experiment with everything and see what works for you, and practice, practice, practice.
Really enjoying this series, you are doing an amazing job. One observation; I noticed on the rear corner repair that you didn't cut all of the rusty metal out. The repair piece should have been twice the size to replace all of the pitted thin rust damaged metal. Generally I find If you are blowing holes welding the butt joint, then you haven't removed enough of the old metal.
Thanks Dan, i was thinking this... its just the piece would need to be properly fabricated. I might redo this section in the next episode. Cheers
Good work Steve. We are all learning as we go. I am 70 now and am still learning. Some points: sometimes MIG welds do not go perfectly, there will be a reason, but who cares really. Just re-weld the ones you are not happy with. I have seen the rust pits under what looks to be a perfect finish on all of my projects. My theory is that they are from the factory, or perhaps the finish coating may look perfect but is actually porous. Finally, chemical paint strippers are so annoying now. Most of them have had all the active ingredients removed I'm afraid. Have you seen Cooper stripper (from New Zealand I think)? It is very expensive, but if your project was big enough might still be worth buying.
Bob, just for your info.
The comment before me is a scammer, please do not answer them. It's a common sceme on youtube.
Thanks Bob I think you're absolutely spot on. I'll see if I can get my hands on some of that copper stripper, it sounds good!
Cheers Mino!
Both your developing skills and humility are evident.
Thank you Adrian!
Love these videos you make. Its a lot of work, I'm almost done with my E30 and its been over 2 years now. looking forward to next video. BTW, your welding is getting good.
Thank you Vilfred! I'd love to see yours!
You do an amazing painstaking detail work. You have incredible patience.
Thanks Adcampo!
Wow mammoth marathon task! Beautifully executed! A fresh new E30 will be born!!
Get yourself a chunk of Copper barstock to use as a Backer to fill in and weld holes - will save you a lot of time
I have some copper now :D i'll be giving it a go next ep!
Really awesome work man, so cool to see your E30 projects underway again - it makes me want to get my E30 Touring fully sorted! Looking forward to the next video and also the final video on the Mercedes!
Cheers mate! The merc is almost finished now and I cant wait to share it...
I HIGHLY recommend a proper spot welder, after years of doing plug welds, I bit the bullet and bought one. I have a Miller and I can put an outer rocker on a classic Mini in about 5 minutes now. I plan on getting longer/different shaped tongs as funds allow so I can get into different spaces. Great video, keep up the good work!
Fancy shipping it over to me Sean? :D cheers mate.
You should look into a dustless/wet media blaster for cleaning sheet metal panels. No dust, it keeps the panels cool, and the stronger ones will take off under seal, filler, pretty much everything.
They sound amazing... just a shame they're quite expensive
Slow and steady buddy, it's all too easy to rush and not do the best you can, Slow and Steady mate do it right first time every time, I know you will.
Exactly Dave, cheers mate
For small spots that you are welding you can press a brass plate behind it. That's how I learned it. It's very quick. That's how I rebuilt an Opel Astra F. Big holes with new sheet metal. Then all welding seams with tin. (sorry my englisch ist not the best :P)
You'll see me doing this soon! Cheers dude!
Liking the more frequent videos. Just remember. One day. You will be polishing those quarter panels not grinding them.
Haha cheers Dhes... i cannot wait for that day
Excelente seguí así va a quedar de película, yo hice casi el mismo trabajo en un e 21
I rarely comment but you truly are an artist, I enjoy your videos so much
I also have a problem with one weld being clean, and another nearby weld not being as nice. I would also be curious as to why. I've wondered if it's a voltage issue (I have to run my welder on an extension cord, as I don't have enough outlets in my garage). The best thing about being able to do things like this for yourself is as BMW E30/36/46 chassis skyrocket in value (with the quality of work you do) is that you could flip them for huge profits. Loving the progress!
I aslo have to use it on an extension cord. Maybe that why... maybe our welders aren't the best. Who knows. Cheers Jay!
These videos are much more like what you used to do. Well done lad.
Thanks mate, believe it or not, i've been trying to get back on this project since the day it stopped. So happy to be back. Cheers
You can use an old single edge blade to score the paint prior to applying paint stripper. That way it allows the stripper to attack the paint from underneath as well as on top.
Your welding looks great! And of course, I appreciate your OCD on this as I would be the same way. Nice length on this one and really looking forward to more.
Cheers Michael!
any chance you could link the specific repair manual you used for e30
I’d love to know this too!
Keep telling yourself that the E30's sacrifice is for the greater good, mate. I find its dissection curiously fascinating.
Haha cheers Jeeper!
really happy for you and your welding skills have improved immensely, hope to be able to do that too
Thanks Jacques, appreciate the lovely comment.
I like to use Corroless S rust inhibiting primer from Arc-rite on bare steel , it's available in cans for brushing and spraying and also aerosols .
I use it on my restoration and my other vehicles. It's worth trying some.
Loving how this restoration is coming along.
Thanks Hammy! I'm kind of following the Novol for classic cars range. Check it out, it looks pretty unbeatable in terms of classic car restoration and protection 👌🏼
with the paintstriper it works the best if you wrap in in plastic foil or put it in a plastic bag
Water resistance of paint, even epoxy, depends on the period in which the painted object is exposed to water. And in practice, the car is exposed to thousands of rain showers or washes in a car wash only, without a problem. However, if you put it under water for a longer period of time the thin layers of OEM paint will not turn out to be waterproof. When a brand new car is flooded for several months, the rust, as it had developed on the inside of your fender under the OEM paint, will also develop here. But that never happens in reality. What I would do is at the moment the car is completely welded, so tight from front to back, is acid dip it, e coat it, and only then make it tight, paint it and put it together. Keep up your fantastic work!
Great info and advice thanks Dennis! I'm seriously 50/50 about whether or not I should acid dip it... lots of pros and cons. Cheers though!
Great video - I might get one of those finger sanders as well !!
Cheers Broomad! I highly recommend them.. .
I love that you use your Bose headphones as hearing protection just like me :P
Yay back to the basics!!! Missed e30 stuff
Me too! Cheers!
Cool video, nice to see like this rust repair...But must say in 32:20, it looks like top off that space what you are making new, is also rust or surface rust, also I would at least brush the background of the welding with a steel brush at the point where you has welded
You're not wrong Mike, i'm going to redo that rear section at the start of the next episode
I've just stumbled upon your channel, this is gonna be one late Friday night, awesome! Subscribed 👍🏻😎
I'm glad to hear it, LV! Happy to have you onboard. The channel is going through a huge equipment and workshop upgrade right now, but the usual content schedule will resume asap! Cheers
I use paint stipping discs for the angle grinder, the black sponge looking ones. They are quite effective, you just need to watch out not to put too much heat in a single spot and move on if you see any sparks. They are much easier on the metal than those metal brushes.
Another idea just in case: panel bond your wheel arches to the inner wheel well when the time comes.. by far the best solution for this rust sensitive area. Dont spot weld if you can get your hands on panel bond.
Adding to this comment as I watch: dont complain about weld quality if you wont bother to clean paint off first. Also, get yourself a bit of copper.. makes bridge welding easier when you clamp it behind the hole. When welding a gap, start from the outside going in, that way you dont have any heat in the panel when welding the most blow-out sensitive bit.
I have these discs, i just didnt know they were paint stripper discs. So you'll see those next episode. The red primer is weld through haha... its specifically designed to be welded through. Good advice on the inner wheel arches, that is currently the plan.
@@RestoreIt Weld through is good, but in my experience it does affect weld quality.
You mostly want it when sandwiching panels, when everything is open you can clean around the weld and repaint after. When spotwelding manually (with a drilled hole), it still pays off to use a flat drill bit to clean the paint off in the area that will receive the weld, just to make 100% sure the weld will stick. Use a cavity protection product afterwards (I like Noxudol).
As always Steve great work. I could watch these all day. 👍
Great work Brother, Glad to watch you again, your welds is a lot better now.
Thanks dude! Good to see you.
For paint striping n removing, media blasting may do the job better I think.
Shot blasting will warp the panel in the middle. I did also blast section of that panel in this episode.
I really enjoyed this video. Keep up the work I can’t wait till it’s finish.
Thanks Joey!
A MIG (or, even better, MAG) welder makes dealing with small fires easy: Your shielding gas is mostly CO2 and your machine probably has some "post-flow" (keeping the gas flowing after the trigger is released to shield the end of the weld until it cools down a bit), so just tap the trigger to release the gas and you can use the torch as a tiny fire extinguisher.
I've never seen this kind of primer for paintguns. I've only used spraycan versions. I'd really appriciate if you could tell us what product are you using.
Also it's mad to watch that that donorcar had sportseat seats? in. where I live those are already so rare and go with mad prices.
Overal. It's relaxing to watch you work on it. I've welded my e28 and can agree that it takes a lot of time. Keep up the good work!
Hey Magnus, you must have skipped a bit as I always tell you what paint im using. I reallt showed it off in the second return episode. All the info is inside the videos. The donor car didnt have sport seats, no. They're Just houndstooth standard seats. Cheers!
This may be an unpopular opinion among body workers, but I would advice using rutile flux core wire as it has supreme penetration properties and the welds are almost flat when doing spot welds. Still be cautious with amps because it's really potent.
I'll look into this for sure, cheers Konrad!
You must have the patience of an angel cause that's a lot of work.
If you can manage to find a Tecna spot welder, you should be fine, they are somewhat old and should be able, to found at a decent discount. But they may still be pricy, but again new ones cost like 12000£.
You could also ask a bodyshop, to loan theirs (i.e. you bring the car there)
I can see one is available for 12000 dkk here in Denmark, with a pin puller as well
Ouch... I might be sticking to the normal welder at this rate haha
@@RestoreIt fully understandable. In most OEM repair manuals, they even say you can substitute spot welds, with MIG spot welds. But if you can, I'd rent some hours at a local bodyshop, to use theirs.
Do yourself a favor and get a right angle die grinder with 2 inch roll lock flap discs. Got a battery powered one myself and I use it more then my angle grinders since I got it.
Cheers Litrix, i'll have a look at see whats out there. I already have roloc, so just the right angle will do! :)
very cool. from a rusty car, through your hands it was revived. i love the way you work
You should try one of this paint stripping tools
“Eastwood CONTOUR SCT® - Surface Conditioning Tool”
I actually have some just like this. I just didn't know that they were for paint stripping! Haha
@@RestoreIt lol ! Yea man would cut down your jobs hours so much
Sometimes adding heat to paint stripper (a portable heater, etc) can make them more effective. Not sure it’s necessarily good for the lungs, but might be worth a try.
Haha cheers Scott!
You're a legend, such eye for detail and craftsmanship.
Small question, is your Bose headset blocking any sounds. Like I know it has noise cancellation but is it the same as a propper hearing protection.
Cheers Jibbe! And yes they are so so good at stopping sound. Even with a podcast playing, i can barely hear the grinder right next to my face. Highly recommended!
Spot welder for hire Ted Bar Tinker looks reasonably priced or buy new direct from Clarke Tooling. If you intend lots of spot welding, probably cheaper to buy new.
Cheers Smiffies.. i think you're right. Bit of an investment but probably well worth it
Wish you maintain sanity thru this whole restoring the chassie process! :))) following you since day one mate! keep it up!
Your getting that crispy bacon sound on the welder nice to here 😊
Cheers John! It's not bad for a cheap welder
While you have it apart, you should hook it up to awd it they did have a awd version of that car after all.
Great job, can you give me the dimensions (tubing section dimension and thickness ) of the tubing using in the rotisserie.
micro holes is causing the rust from the other side tinning is the best method to stop but you better be very good at it
Cheers Pete!
@@RestoreIt take this old mans and years of experience or leave it for modern methods been done for years this way👴🧑🔧👨🏭🧑⚖
27:04 Hold some copper behind the gap and weld it up 10/10
First person to say copper instead of brass. I have some copper and will be giving it a go next ep!
Drum sender would work well for paint strip[ping. Low dust and low odor.
On the rear of the sill, you should have cut a bit bigger. If you commit to cut a panel, then might as well cut out the whole area with obvious pitting. Your end result looks superb however.
I will be redoing this section at the start of the next ep! Cheers Venelin! Always be honest with me and i'll appreciate it
put rust converter on before you first primer it. done it on every metal part on my car and its worth it.
Regarding the welds, have you checked your gas flow?
And regarding the welds, didn't see it 9n camera, but did you prime the back of the welds?
I always check the gas flow, except for the times I don't haha. And yes they have been done and I will show it next episode
Great video
Thanks for taking time to make them and share them with us
No problem tvdel, glad you enjoy them!
I see you work with low current. Are you getting adequate (full) penetration of the welds?
For sure, i'm actually welding with a higher voltage than usual because this metal is thicker
Very educational videos from your production. Thank you for sharing ideas and experience with us.
Watched the m40b16 restoration to the intake, is that whole resto canned?
I don’t know if you have tried it,but I use aviation paint stripper ,it has not disappointed.just a idea.you’ve come a long way,and still a lot to do,but hey that’s why you do this to yourself,the challenge and final finish.just keep telling yourself that,over and over and over.yea sure sure Lol good video.just keep doing what your doing and carry on 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Haha cheers Tom.
Greetings what’s the name of the program you are using to view the manual because I just have the pdf
You need to contact EMO and ask them to link you to the interactive manual you need.
@@RestoreIt Okay thank you and I love your videos and the effort you put into them God bless you🇯🇲‼️💯
Great job!
A pleasure to view as always!
Thanks K M! Glad you like it!!
Thanks for another banger video!
Thanks for watching and comments Freddy, much appreciated!
Amazing. I might have to get myself one of those finger grinders 👌🏼
They are fantastic, cheers Adam!
Hi Steve! Why are you using this kind of rust protection colour? I think it‘ s a 1k paint, right? Have you ever considered to use a 2k with epoxy? I use always Mipa EP 100-20 2K-EP-Grund and you don‘t have ever issues with rust. Cheers Wiili from🇦🇹
I am amazed by the amount of dedication and skill. Keep it up! It’s enjoyable following the process! Moral support is on your way lol 💯🕊🔥
Cheers Nikolayski! I need all the moral support i can get!
Looking really good to date never nice cutting up another e30 but @ least parts of it lives on in this build 👍🏻
Thanks Ade, and very true!
It's always a thrill to watch something being renovated.. =) Can't wait to do it myself on my "boxy", although I have some more things first, which will take some time. You're doing great, neat work. I also prefer butt welds whenever possible, as you can dress, shape, flatten,clean and those will never rust once painted. Lap joints are also inevitable, so I can give you 2 advices to take care of those. Once welded and ground nice, wet the seam between the parts by capillary action with some rust inhibitor or remover, leave it to do it's job for some time and then blow it through the seam with compressor gun. Leave it to dry completely, then apply some half thinned paint again by capillary between the joint and give it some help with compressor gun. Leave to dry and the seam should be protected as much as you can do it. Cheers, hope it helps.
Only in that way an e30 gets perfect. Great job so far, go on, cant wait for new videos...👍🏼
Cheers Seb!
That Novol primer you use, is it epoxy?
This bodywork primer is not epoxy. Its a temporary weld through primer for bodywork. Next is the 3:1 Novol epoxy primer
@@RestoreIt So presumably it all has to be sanded off prior to the epoxy?
Great job as always!
Thanks Josip!!
What primer is it that you are using?
Novol bodywork primer
Great video as ever. Which finger grinder do you use? I need to get one. 😮
Porqué no enviás a arenar los paneles?
Good to see some progress again! I see you're using a Mannesmann toolbox too! I have the same and the quality of it is amazing, sadly my case has a broken divider and clamps so I'm left with two open halves haha. Keep up the good work!
Kind regards, Martin
Cheers Martin! And yeah, honestly a decent toolbox for the price. Mines also falling apart a little bit haha. Thanks mate!
Why didn't you drill out the spot welds and remove the quarters that way? It would leave the structures that you don't need fully intact, whereas doing your way wastes quite a bit. I think having the quarters installed, at least with just a few spot welds would make for a better working platform and if you feel you might have to be able to work the metal from the backside you can just grind off those few tacks you've put in. Take it off, do your work, an tack back up. To wit, getting that wheel arch perfect. That's going to have to be on the car to fit just right with the inner, I think anyway. Not coming off and on again, only to be set in a slightly different spot each time.
I agree with you Mac. But remember, the quarters were not removed by me. A workshop in Spain did loads of work without me being there....
@@RestoreIt I'm talking about the donor car's quarters. It's quicker to go for the chop as you did, but now you're going to have to go back afterward with a lot of trimming that slows you down IMO. Anyway, good luck with this project. Keep plugging away friend.
if you leave those small patches a little long, you wont burn through as easy at the edge. easy to grind flush later.
Good advice, you'll see this next episode!
Why dont you find a acid dopping shop. Saves you valuable time and all parts become bare steel. Great videos as always.
Because of at least 10 reasons. I'm still 50/50 about acid dipping
Amazing work, I admire your OCD and passion, haha!
That’s great work. Keep going
Thanks dude!
Always make sure you have a good ground, bare metal- clean bit of that primer and then clamp earth.
Never start weldind when you have ball at the end of welding wire, trim it
This primer is weld through so I dont need to grind it off, but yes good advice cheers PawelS!
@@RestoreIt yes, I know primer is weld through, but with low welder settings - 15-17V, 60-80Amps you don't want any possible electrical isolation. Clean only where you clamping earth clamp, not where you welding.
Great work, I enjoy watching 👍
You make me want to try my hand at spot welding.
Its actually quite fun haha
LOVE Restore It Good job
Thank you BkPro!
such amazing work!!
i love your meticularity it will payoff.
Brilliant exciting build
Glad you're enjoying it Logan!
HALLELUJAH!!!! Another episode of Restore It!!! ♥️♥️♥️
Cheers Michael!!
@@RestoreIt so glad to see this project finally moving along (as I’m sure you are as well, haha) but I’m wondering surely there MUST be a liquid paint stripper out there *somewhere* that will just DESTROY anything in its way that you could use?! All that damnable wire wheel work has to be tedious!!! Have you had any suggestions yet?!
use a damp rag while welding to cool faster
Oh are you back in the uk now?
I’m really impressed with what you do. Having a workshop space helps too tho
Thanks Pete, and yes back in the UK where its not too hot to move :D
@@RestoreIt I’m working on an 2004 r53 Mini Cooper s and now a 2007 L322 Range Rover 🙈
Interesting to see your job done. Cheers 👍
Thank you as always Sony!