Addendum to - How to setup a Harbor Freight Dovetail Jig
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- This video is an updated addendum to the last video on how to setup a Harbor Freight Dovetail Jig.
Woodstock D2796 Manual
drive.google.com/file/d/0B7nD... - Навчання та стиль
I tried to setup the piece of rubbish using the manual supplied and I gave up. But looking at what you did I'll have another crack at it. Thanks for all the effort you put into making and explain about. Cheers.
Thank you BIG TIME!!! After following your tutorial and using the Woodstock manual I get PERFECT dovetails EVERY TIME
Thank you for this updated addendum it will be a big help for the one I bought in the early 2000
Thank you so much. I got the HF jig last fall, and it has been sitting in my 'shop' because I could not figure out how to set it up. Your tape and addendum make it much clearer, and I am very hopeful of being able to use it. I so appreciate someone that understands enough to "translate" their stuff to actual usable examples. Also seeing you use it (Good video, by the way) makes so much more sense.
Thank you so much for your time and thoroughness in ‘correcting’ the OEM setup and introducing the Woodstock manual WITH DEPTH TABLE!! Appreciate!
Thanks for the update - the link for the manual is very helpful for the fence setback.
Even with the video, it took several hours. Since nothing is ever easy, modifications to parts took the bulk of the time. Thank you so much for the video. Huge help!
Thank's for both of your videos. I bought the jig a few years ago and found so many negative comments I did not even bother to use it went with box joints. After watching your videos I will give it a go. Great job thank's again.
This is so helpful. Follow this set up and you will get a good result. Spent half a day trying to figure it out and then watched this and got a near perfect dovetail. Thanks
OUTSTANDING!!! I just got back from HF with the jig. I'll try to use it before 2024!! Many thanks for your help.
Thank-you very much for the original video and this addendum. They were just what I needed.
I echo what Jerry Lawson said, except I've had mine for about 8 years!!!! I bought it off sale/display model table at a local woodworking store and it came with no manual or instructions and it had no brand name on it. I have kept looking at it saying 'I should figure out how this thing works' and then I just kept closing the cupboard door again. This helps a TON. Thanks for doing it.
As a former technical writer, Bravo Zulu on the instructions. They were clear, concise and detailed. Thanks so much.
I watched your other video but hadnt watched this out. I got one of these and out of curiosity used the hf manual. It got me close but not quite. I'll be sure to get the Woodstock manual. Thanks.
Thank you so much for the video, I have had this jig sitting in the garage for over a year, was not sure how it works, I read the manual a few times through out the year, decided to try it tonight after 2 hours or more i gave up, came into the house found your video, and the thing really works thank you so much for your information
Great to hear!
I bought the harbor freight dovetail routing jig about, oh, 2 or 9 years ago (that is, I don't remember!). I tried to set it up using a method much like yours. Unfortunately, I lost the notes, and put this jig aside until I would find a better jig.
The good thing is that I did not need too many dovetails at the time, so losing the notes was a blessing of a sort, as it motivated me to try some hand made dovetails, which I did, and which worked out very well.
Thank you so very much for the clear, concise instructions you have taken the time to produce and load here. I need to use the jig because I won't be able to cut the dovetails in an upcoming project by hand. I know I can do some dovetails by hand as I did before, but I want them to look even and very attractive, and I don't have a year or two for learning how to do them right. I can't afford a good jig yet, so thank you for rescuing my cheap HF jig! It will take me a lot of tries, but now I can bumble through the project!
Great video! Had questions about buying this jig and your videos have helped greatly!
Just followed this today and got some nice joints with test pieces. I am building a guitar tube amplifier combo cabinet. Thanks for your video! Like you said, the measurement from fence to end of finger was a 1/16th too much. I shortened it by 1/16th and it was perfect.
thank you very much for this. printed out the Woodstock instructions & used them along with your video, my dovetails came out great!
Thanks for providing the Woodstock manual info. What a difference! I have the Lee Valley Tools model with the same crappy manual as the HF one.
Kudos!!! Great video. I bought my jig yesterday and told them at harbor freight that It because of your video that I purchased the jig. Well done. 👍👍
Thanks, maybe HF would give me a tool deal and I get free tools and do reviews...in my dreams.
Thanks for the video. You saved me a lot of time getting this setup.
thanks couldnt get it to work now i have made dove tails, great work keep them coming
Thank You! I've watched both your excellent videos.
This is the best video I have seen from anyone who's helping out people like me! Thank you! This was easy to understand and you did it step by step and you should be paid by HF to make videos!
This one does not show the modification made to make the router seat work... I watched both and am glad I did!
thanks for this. I am also amending my previous post on your previous video.
Thanks for this video. I bought the jig yesterday and have it set up, thanks to you. The instructions are junk. I also appreciate the reference to the chart in the woodstock manual.
A link to the Woodstock D2796 Manual is below the video if you need to print it out.
Thank you very mutch. I bought today one of them, and I was triyng to traduce it to german, because in english doesn't fit, in german neither, and now, thank to you, I know why! Saludos de MX
Very good video thank you For sharing very informative God bless you and yours.
Great info and well done. Thank you!
Thanks for your research and the great video!!
Thank you for the helpful information.
A warning to anyone interested in using this kind of Jig. Not all router guide bushing kits are created equal and are suitable for using with these jigs to get good results. I tried using the 'vermont american 23458' kit and it was extremely difficult to get consistent results and keep the router flat and straight especially when routing out near the edge of the jig fingers. This kit has the bushing plates mounted from behind so there is approximately a 1/4" recess all the way around the collar. Plus the fact that since the router base plastic plate is universal it's got all kinds of grooves, slots holes in the bottom of it to adapt to anything which reduces the reliable flat area for routing and keeping the bit at a perfect 90 degree angle to the finger surface which is imperative for cutting good fitting dovetails. Working as carefully as I could and taking my time I still had trouble preventing the router from tipping a little bit at times which wrecks the joint.
My suggestion is to obtain and use the kinds of bushings that have the bottom surface 'flush' with the router plate to maintain precise support around the fingers.
Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
Thanks for the new info!
i am sure you saved me a lot of time!!!
I found that clamping the comb down in the front helps. Not tight, but just enough to keep it flush. The front tends of the comb to tilt up.
Nice follow up, thanks.
Great video Thanks so much.
I bought an even cheaper jig from rockler years ago. Sold under the brand "Reliant." It has plastic template instead of metal. I got luck, just followed directions and no test cuts. Perfect fit right away (I made poplar drawers for the kitchen). The only mishap was building the last drawer I chipped one of the plastic template fingers. If I use it again I'd use my small Makita trim router.
Thanks for the information!
Thank You Mr Dabrudda !
Nice job. Thank you.
I purchased a Bosch dovetail bit and Harbor Freight bushing set. I wish I could find a bit with a bearing that would work. I de-burred the stops so they slid better. I used the chart, but I am fine tuning the distance with "Jo " blocks ( ex-machinist ). I spent the entire day working on this jig.
super helpful, thank you
Vital info!!!
Thanks.
Thank you, much appreciated.
Now im kicking myself for spending the time searching for that manual when I missed that you had the link right in the description, lol.
Extremely well done tutorial. You are clear, concise, and have an easy to understand delivery.
Thanks again for posting this...I have had mine "ALMOST" there for too long now and subsequently the jig has been collecting dust but I'm brushing it off right now :)
Thank you shipmate!
Also, I just noticed...IF the sides did fit together it looks like the pins would fail to fully seat by about an eighth of an inch...which IS in troubleshooting. I'm going to make that adjustment by moving the fence back 1/8 inch and do another test cut and see if that solves my issue. Jim Varner
Greetings, sir. Your vid gave me the inspiration to purchase the jig. I've read the full set of instructions and done a test cut. I have an issue that is not covered in the troubleshooting section of the manual. The depth of cut appears to be accurate....of offset appears to be accurate as the centerlines of the pins and tail align...the base of he tails is 1/2 inch to match the size of the bit. But...the pins are too wide to lock into the tails. They appear to measure approximately 2/3 in. wide. Do you have any idea what would cause this? I'm stumped. Jim Varner
Thank you for the great video. How do I calculate the length of the sides and front with back? Thank you.
If you have stock that is 12" do you have to just remove the stops? It doesn't seem to accommodate a full 12" board (?)
thanks for another informative video man just subscribed I don't know how often you subscribe to other woodworking channels but I would love to have you aboard look forward to seeing what you have done and what you do in the future one last thing did you get that guide bearing at Harbor Freight? thanks again man have a good one
Thank you.
thx for the update. Dif you find a source for bushings to fit your router? Thx brudda
to modify my template i used a dremel and remove those small bumps with a diamond tip burr. and thay all fit just fine
Really great job! I’m not going to buy the jig because it has too many adjustments. I’ve seen the porter cable and it’s much easier to set up. It cost four times as much but in the end, I think it’s worth it. You are much more skilled and resourceful than I am… I’m 61 And I have Parkinson’s. My tremors make something like this prohibitive but I wouldn’t have known that without your excellent set up/reviews. Thank you!
Thanks 👍
"because it has too many adjustments".....the Porter Cable jig has the EXACT SAME adjustments as the HF jig does. Other than being made a little better, and knobs being a little different, all the same settings/adjustments are required on the PC jig.
I own the PC jig and my son has the HF. I give him crap about buying "cheap junk" and he gives it right back about me having less money to buy nice lumber. It takes about the same effort to set up either one and at the end of the day you can't see a nickels worth of difference in the joints...in fact, you can't tell which joint was done on which jig...
Thank you so much. This will be the first time I use this jig and was running scared on what to do. Thanks again!
Great videos. Do you know if this jig can be used with a router set up on a table? Or does it only work with a hand held/plunge router?
I've only used it with a handheld router. I think it would be difficult to move the jig around, it weighs more than a handheld router.
Hey there,
Just bought this jig and I just have one issue. I used a 7/16” guide bushing instead of a 1/2” that the HF manual calls for and when I go to set the height that the bit extends out from the base plate, 9/16”, the guide bushing ends up being too small in diameter and before I can bring the base plate up to the correct height the bit gets stuck in the bushing, or in other words the diameter of the bit is wider than the diameter of the bushing and before I can reach 9/16” the bit ends up contacting the sides of the bushing. I don’t think this is too big of a problem but I’m not 100% sure. Did you encounter this problem at all? When I use my 1/2” guide bushing it fits in flush with the comb and the bit is able to be set at 9/16” too so I was hoping I could use the 1/2” guide bushing. Anyway, thank you for this video it helped me out a lot.
I had to use the 7/16 bushing because a 1/2 would not fit in the comb. I may try filing and sanding the insides of the comb. I have not had a problem with the bit not fitting.
Thank you for the video it helped me set up the jig accurately. However I have a separate issue. I have both the Craftsman and Porter Cable guide bushing sets. They both seem to be between 1/32 and 1/16 to tall for the comb. Is there any way to fix this besides shimming the comb up? Or did I miss something in the set up?
Try getting the HF guide bushing set. The Craftsman and PC guides may be only for their brand of jig.
@@MrDabrudda I got the HF bushing set but needed to file down the length of the bushing to about 1/8. As new it was about 5/8 long
I buy Woodstock International Inc Dovetail Jig
To use it you have to buy a piece that is not included (Guide bushing) and is very difficult to find and buy.
Just hapend with the Woodstock brand, other brands come with everything included.
It is frustrating.
Thanks
I am close to getting a fit, but it is so tight that I know something is off. What do I need to do to loosen the dovetail fit? Going through a lot of wood. :(
Make a shallower cut to loosen the fit.
Hello, I need to make sure I have the same jig. Can you please tell me the thickness of the comb or aluminium template?
It is printed on the plate. 1/2"
Thank you!!!!
I think you had to do the second fence adjustment because you did the first one before adjusting the comb for the stock thickness. If you followed the chart measurement after the comb adjustment does that work perfectly for you?
Thanks again, I've watched this and the original video at least a dozen times to prepare for conquering this thing! :)
Chris Carpenter:
I was about to comment the same thing. The instructions say to adjust the template position first, then the fence position. It does not make sense to reverse the order as shown in this video, since the fence position is referenced from the template position.
My joints are a little loose , not long or short, after following these directions. Any tips?
Adjust the depth of your bit
where did you get those bushing guides please. I have a set and the shank that protrudes up on them is too long..thnx
Harbor Freight sells them
@@MrDabrudda ty
Would a dovetail cutter with a top bearing work, instead of sleeving?
So long as the bearing moves freely through the fingers of the comb and extends depth wise enough to properly engage the comb...yes, a bearing will work.
@@TheWingnut58 It would have to be the correct diameter (7/16") bearing though. Correct? I know I am a year late for Rick, but someone else may read this.
How do you like that router? I’m thinking about getting one.
The router is ok. Not top of the line but it gets the job done.
I bought the Harbor Freight versin last summer and am happy that you've provided the means to obtain a better written manual.
I was concerned about whether or not this jug could also do half-blind dovetails which I have just learned, can do. Is it possible to
half-blind dovetails so that the sides of the drawer extend about 1/2 inch wider than drawer's actual length and width? The old drawers that I plan to replace were made by combining a rectangular box with a front pannel. There must be a way. Thanks for the info! Good video1
My joints are too tight. How can I get it to loosen up a bit? I’m running a 1/2” dovetail bit @ right at 9/16” depth on 3/4” hardwood
Adjust the depth of your bit.
@@MrDabrudda thank you!
can i use this to make finger joints instead of dovetail?
I believe so using a straight bit
Thankyou for a more detailed instruction on this jig . I have just purchased the same model but this version is by SIP which is exactly the same model . My question is can I cut boards which are 1/2 inch thick with the 1/2 inch comb and router bit . The instructions are very poor with the sip version .thanks
1/2" stock should work. Download the instruction booklet from the description below the video to get the correct settings for that stock size.
Many thanks , I can download the instruction manual which will be a great help to fathom out the finer details .
Can I also ask , can this jig to equal thickness pieces such as two 1/2 inch boards or does it have to be one thick and one thin . Thanks
Yes you can use different size stock. Say 3/4" for the front of the drawer and 1/2" for the sides.
I have gone over this manual and many videos to the point to where I don't know what to change to make it work. The tail is too wide to fit into the base of the socket. it is about an 1/8" too big.
bit: 1/2" @14 degree
bit depth: 9/16" from base plate to end of bit tip
stock is 3/4" thick
1/8" gap from edge of vertical board to comb edge
have tried 1/2" and 7/16" bushing
what am I missing?
If the dovetails are too wide to fit that is usually an indication that your bit is too deep. See Page 18 of this better manual for the D2796/Harbor Freight dovetail jig. Hope this helps.
drive.google.com/file/d/0B7nDu4dJR2PnY2Fmc3lkTnRnTE0/view?usp=sharing
if you have 1/2" wide bit, and 1/2" wide dovetail jig (which harbor freight is), obviously you can't use 1/2" bushing.
because the bit must move back and forth to create something wider than 1/2".
7/16" bushing will work, because the router can wiggle back and forth 1/16" within the jig slot.
and final cut of the widest part of trapezoid will be 1/2+1/16 = 9/16".
then you have to set up the depth of bit so that the narrow part of the trapezoid will be 1"- 9/16 = 7/16"
if you have 3/8" bushing, the router can wiggle 1/8" within the slot, and create trapezoid with wide part of 5/8"
so you need to set up the depth to make the narrow part 3/8".
and depth will be much greater than if you used 7/16" bushing, assuming the bit is the same angle.
Can you make a ( through) dovetail with this Jig?
No, only half blind dovetails.
At 5:50 you break out your 1/2" shim. Where'd that come from? Can you explain what you're doing, why, cause I'm real confused how you magic that shim out of thin air and then toss it off somewhere behind the jig. Help me here. Thanks!
I made the 1/2" shim from scrap wood on my table saw. The shim is to off-set the vertical piece 1/2" to line up the dovetail joint correctly.
Thanks for the quick response and for both videos explaining this jig. I'm trying to set up my HF jig meticulously following your instructions. I'll let you know how it all unfolds. So far so good.
Download the Woodstock instructions from the drive.google.com/file/d/0B7nDu4dJR2PnY2Fmc3lkTnRnTE0/view?usp=sharing
This is the correct setting for the jig.
Outstanding!
What size bushing are you using?
If I remember it was the 1/2" bushing
For me a 7/16” worked well.
Has anyone tried to use this jig with a Ryobi model 163 using the milescraft base plate busing set ? I found it extremely difficult.
I'm sure the HF plate is not machined to very tight tolerances. I tried 1/2" bushing which would not fit so I used 3/8" bushing.
@@MrDabrudda Thank You for responding. Much appreciated. The problem I’m having is the base plate from Lowes is to wide and won’t allow me to adjust the fence back far enough to use the Fence Adjustment Table. Believe it or not Ryobi doesn’t make an insert plate for bushings so I found an after market insert plate that should fit the Ryobi original plate and allow me to utilize the Fence Adjustment Table.
What size guide bushing you use
I bought the guide set from Harbor Freight. I don't recall the exact size.
7/16
Busing size should not matter. What matters is the distance from the bushing edge to the edge of your base plate. Use the chart from there. He has it linked. I found that one of the HR bushings fits really well, but is too long. It needs to be shaved down.
can you make through dovetails with that jig?
Only half blind dovetails
@@MrDabrudda I don't own one yet, but can you explain why it wouldn't work for through dovetails, if a person cut both ends on the same plane?
Whoever thumbsed me up: Its because that would join them "through dovetail" but END TO END, not at a 90 degree angle. . . I figured it out myself.
Anyone find the link fo the Woodstock manual?
Its in the description of the video
drive.google.com/file/d/0B7nDu4dJR2PnY2Fmc3lkTnRnTE0/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-orcH8hbWQbOQXBvSHp1Y-g
Yes I dl this morning
Muy bueno el video lo malo que no esta en español saludos de Chile
The comb is 1/2 inch but the tool company making it used dull tool. Get a file and file the comp to 1/2 inch. it wotks correctly if the tool is correct.
Jeff Graham Mine is a half inch too, slightly oversized. It’s just more half assed Chinese workmanship. It appears to be a water jet finish
I have a question, if anybody wants to weigh in. The HF jig says it takes a 1/2 inch bushing vs. 7/16. On mine, my 1/2" bushing fit perfectly in half of the slots. The others took just a little filing. If it were supposed to be 7/16" a "little filing" wouldn't work. It seems like it's 1/2" but poorly machined? Is that not correct or a bad assumption, and will that screw up everything else if I assume it is a 1/2" slot?
On my jig a 1/2" collet will not fit into the fingers of the jig. The HF instruction manual is incorrect when it says 1/2" collet.
MrDabrudda thanks for the reply and for the uploads. just trying to figure it out. My 7/16 bushing is nowhere near the right size. Way too much play. 1/2" is only 2 strokes with the file from a perfect fit and the template says 1/2" on it. Definitely a poorly machined 1/2 ".
With a 7/16" collet there will be play and you will need to move the router to each side of the finger to get a complete dovetail cut. Read the PDF linked below my addendum video for the correct setup instructions. This jig is manufactured and branded for several different companies but it the same exact jig.
Understood, and without your video this thing would be useless. I just think that the only difference is that the slots are 1/2" as stamped right on the template. I filed mine, used my 1/2" template and followed your video and got excellent results. The Woodstock manual is absolutely right on as you said except their template is 7/16". Everything else other than the template is the same. The bushing is not supposed to be able to move around in the slot. I'd be willing to bet that the other 10 companies buying these from China or wherever either supply or designate which template to use. The first frame of your video shows the 1/2" stamped on the left hand side. That is not a mistake. I think they are 1/2" slots that are tight by a few thousandths, not wide by a 1/16th of an inch. No manufacturing process is that far off. :-) Just my 2 cents worth. Thanks again. I bought this because of your video.
AndyB:
You are mistaken that the bushing should be a tight fit in the template slot. That would be a terrible design because you simply cannot rely on every slot on a cheap piece of aluminum to be exactly accurate to a few thousandths of an inch.
The design is for the bushing to be slightly smaller than the template slot width, and then you simply run the router against the left edge and the right edge of each slot.
Miserve uno
Where do you get chart and how to use it
There's a link just above "Comments" to the Woodstock Instruction Manual under "More" in this video and the original video this is an addendum to.