I've had this video saved in my favorites for a while now and finally rewatched it when working on my tiny home build and did this for my bathroom doorway. I fucked up on a couple cuts but it was nice having you show that you did similar lol. I think I've almost got it fully figured out!
Great video. Really shows the ups and downs we go through. I'm currently in the middle of a double french door jamb install on a 45°. I was stuck on that triangle/ kite piece. Logic pointed in that direction and you confirmed that. I'm going to add glue since theres a load from the weight of the doors. Thank you.
i so agree with the positioning of the door. i was hoping and praying you'd put it in the middle when you were debating this inside your head lol. another great job. and there is nothing wrong with you turning into your dad. he seems to be a great one :-)
Having done a 45" angle door recently I initially tried to do something like this and keep it as simple as possible but the issue with this approach is the plasterboard in combination with the architrave won't fit on the inside of the door frame. You have to make short straight section on either side of the door after your 45 angle to allow for these things.
I like Deborrah's idea for the door, it's a neat solution. What I like about it is it is giving you a visual clue that the room is going to be a bit small. If you go with a traditional pine door you are subconsciously expecting the more generous rectangular space behind it. Also a heavier door conveys a message. I've got the crappy Howden's special in my small bathroom, it is 685mm and doubtless filled with cardboard. It returns to a spring thingy on the floor. While the door is naff it does work on a functional basis.
Looking good! If that door you plan to use is solid wood, maybe you could cut it down the middle and hinge it both sides - that way the door and shower pan/glass can't collide, and it would probably look pretty nice as well with some kind of attractive locking hardware in the middle.
@@michellejaggard9657 you ladies seem to be forgetting that us guys are lazy buggers !!!! lol Opening TWO doors to go to the loo is a bit much, isn't???? :-))))))))
I'm not trying to be one of those idiots that disagree with people over the internet but I think that would look horrible tbh. If it was hinged on the left then it would miss the shower cubicle/screen anyway. A standard 30"doorway isnt wide enough for two doors and just wouldn't look right, especially if your just cutting a door smack down the middle. I've seen too many botched doors/doorways in my time as a carpenter/builder. 🙂
If you line the inside with OSB before you put the drywall up you will be able fix all your fittings anywhere you want, will also allow you shower screen to be fitted easily. Great videos keep up the good work.
Great video.... your mind seems to work like mine... always trying to figure and problem solve! And as far as the noggins go... I’ve done it both staggered and straight in the past. You could always add an extra noggin on top of the staggered ones to make them level to the next one if you know what I meen. Just more trips to the chop saw and more nails in the gun. Nice little area you have in there to work with👍 take care mate. Marc
Deborahs idea about the door is a good one. We have bifold door in our downstairs toilet. That would work well in your case also, folding in and to the right, I think there would be enough room
nice !! little tips cut in bevel 2x -2x4 in 45 angle all the lenght of the 2x4 so the lenght of your wall studs and put it between your outside corner each side with your studs cut in 45 and also take the other cut of 45 degres and put the 2 between the outside corner its make solid for the joint of the drywall
Do you not recommend doubling up on your timber for thr door opening? Did you do a video on fitting the door lining? Also any recommendations for the filler piece when building with 3x2s?
great video! We're fully insulating our single brick utility room which is at the back of the garage and creating almost exactly what you did here (bit smaller) for downstairs loo. Door from garage is on the wall where your boiler is, then door from kitchen at right angles to that, facing where door into WC needs to go, and we're putting base units on the kitchen door wall. Big window and door on the end wall. If we'd done a door in a straight wall we'd have ended up with a nasty narrow bit and blocked more light out. Never done anything as big as this before but quotes we were getting were £6 k (with us supplying rad' ,sanitary wear, taps,base units and utility sink, macerator) Sorry if this is a dumb question,but where is the 45 degree angle measured? If you drew a line straight across the end of your right hand stud wall (looking into the room),then measure the angle to a line drawn where the inside edge of the door is going to sit, is that the 45 degree angle? Then repeat on the other side?
Regarding the noggins both ways are good enough and neither is strictly a wrong way to do it, they are commonly staggered for ease of fixing though I myself do prefer to have them lined up. The plasterboard absolutely does not need to be supported there though, it is designed to span across your uprights in that manner and doesn't affect the strength of your wall in any way. Yes it's great if the join is supported there but it's absolutely not necessary. 👍🙂
On your question about the "noggings", (spelling?). Also known as "fire blocking". Where the plaster board would have a solid connection at the seams, this is what I do. Cut another piece of wood the same length, and screw them from the top. You won't need to screw them from the ends, it will give the plaster board support, and use any scrap pieces you have.
i'm doing a project now which involved >£1k of CLS. I've ordered at least 10% contingency and thank goodness as angles/constantly cutting too short as well as a few unusable twisted stus make it a sometimes frustrating endeavour!
Better than drawings, paper or computer generated and floor map 🗺 out, physical visual calms the brain 🧠 cells haha I’ve always done a physical visual as well but I love how we have moments of self realization 🤔 that we are in ways becoming our parents 😁 .... Maybe when they filled the doughnut 🍩 the room was slanted and threw them off 🤣🤣.... anther great video with great content 🙌🏽
The Restoration Couple that makes sense. There’d be a lot of disruption to the sub floor. We’ve had a similar thing done to our cottage but we’ve replaced all floors to concrete with UFH so it was more possible. Love your videos!
There will be another larger WC in the new side extension at ground floor level which will be wheelchair suitable for any guests or future owners. This bathroom is on split levels so not really needed.
I knew when I saw the start of the video you would have issues with the dimensions of the angled wall. I have chopped corners off in hallways etc and it just makes the house flow better. In our house I am building a new master bath and bedroom and it has a few angled walls at odd angles. I use a double top plate and i let the top plates overrun so they will form lap joints. At most angles this means you will may have a point sticking out on an outside corner and a missing one inside. As for the horizontal blocking. It isn't required for drywall support. In fact it's best practice to not put fasteners into any horizontal lumber because they expand and contract opposite of the wall studs. Best practice is to use acoustic sealant at the top and bottom (or everywhere). I wish had a easy way to email you a few pics of how those plates are cut.
I don't stagger the bracing in the walls. When I am hanging dry wall or later looking for a solid surface to nail to I expect it to run in a straight line horizonal as well as vertical. If staggered once the studs have been covered it is very difficult to find the boards at different levels. Just my opinion on how and why I do it that way. Bathroom is looking good.
You only need a straight row of noggins to pick up the edge of the board if your studs are at 600mm centres. If your studs are at 400mm centres noggins are only there for stiffening the wall up, not for picking up the board, and you can put a staggered row half way up the wall. Hope that helps.
Good video this. Looking at partitioning a bedroom up with a similar space to yours to provide an ensuite bathroom. Available space in the room is a little tight though, so keen to also use the angled doorway design to aid the flow around of the main room. Is the finished internal length of both of your new stud walls approximately 1.2m off their back walls, after the boiler is boxed in?
For 45's. Here's the trick. Mark the END of your stud form one corner to the other and make a hash mark on each side of that line. Set your table saw to that angle using the end of the board as a guide. Rip the stud. Flip one side that you just sawed so that sawed faces meet, but one hash marked end is opposite from the other. Next, Take a stud, mate it to the milled site of each half. Those will make up your corner, fill the void, and create the angles needed for the base and cap which would be 22.5 degrees if you're just going to use a protractor.
You seem like an extremely competent DIYer. Curious why you chose not to hang and plumb your radiators and why you are not doing first fix on the electrics? Both simple jobs that would be well within your ability from what I see on the videos.
I do my studs in line and generally 1.2m centres - better to support board and conveniently rockwool slabs slot straight in if you are using them! Was the error that the laser level setting was reading from the front of the device whereas before it was (correctly) reading from the rear? - I’ve done that a few times myself.... infuriating!
Possibly, having used them in a few places I’m not a higher fan but might be a good option, providing there is a cover strip over gap down the middle! 😬 🚽
Theres 2 settings on those laser tape measures, one is for measuring from flush with the surface, the other with it sitting on top of the surface. Looks like you were missing the length of the laser tape measure off the top of those studs :D :D ....I have done this myself
I’d always stagger noggins in the middle of a board part out of laziness and part out of thinking you get a more positive fixing. I’d try to have them inline where 2 boards are butt jointed.
Personally I would have the door open outwards to the bath room or consider having the room square and having a door that slides inside the stud wall. In regards to the noggins I don’t think it makes a big difference to the board which way you go, but I generally find it better to put the plasterboard vertically
How I do it is, for wall, from top right to bottom left run a 1x4, you have to cut into the stud so it sits in there nailed on. How you did it we all fire block, not for strength, but everyone hate that because if the wall is done and plumbing or electric have to run a line they have to drill thru them block's. Everyone does it how they want.
Tim one thing I am unclear about is that the standard way of stud walling seems to be top plate, sole plate, plumb and chalk lines, then knock the timbers in tight with a mallet. Doesn't the traditional way produce a stronger fixing than the cassette way you are doing it? I am only asking because I have heard Roger Bisby talk about how much force a toilet fixing exerts on a wall, and that he has heard of instances where the wall has moved when someone has been on the toilet. Great video as always, I don't know if there is a right or wrong way of doing stud walling but just wanted to make the point that bathrooms do put more stress on stud walls than say a room dividing wall. Also if you get a bit of movement could it compromise the tiles and water tightness of the shower say???
To be fair Roger did say that is only on floating toilets most toilets sit on the floor which Tim's will be, frame building and stick building studwork are fine both ways
@@dannymurphy1779I like his vids think making it as a frame is harder for amateurs and he would of been better stick building the 3 walls, ceiling insulation wouldn't of helped him tho
How is that gone be with the door and a sloped roof and small strange side corners. Hehehe im gone wait for that door;). I would have made a small high window in that wall for some air flowing true that small room and some natural light ( next to the heating system above the white part)...
It will be a standard door, there will be wall above it. A sun tube or roof window would have been nice but the wall you mentioned is now around 600mm deep so not an ideal spot for a window. This room is a bit of a bonus and on a tight budget so can’t be too fancy. 😟
When you plate you only chalk line the outside. Let the plates from sides run wild, put the shortest piece on top and sight your angle from above. Make your skillsaw cut right on the floor, the blade marks the plates below. Knock down the plates and finish your cuts. Mark your studs and cut them to your shortest length less an eighth inch, stand up, shim, nail and your done. That framing should take less than thirty minutes with cutting your 45 degree tack stud.
Forgive me but its nice to see you are human after all - good job you don't make as many "hiccups" as I do! Noggins - stagger but use scrap on top of lower ones to get straight line for plaster board? Please keep sharing, have Dick and Dora recovered from being terrorised by the Gator?
Come on Tim, why do you have a plumber doing underfloor heating and rads??? I've done all my plumbing myself, including underfloor heating and an unvented cylinder, and you're way more capable than I am!
It’s more for the pumps, valves and stats side of things as we run multiple zones and controls. I’m sure I could manage it myself (just) however limited on time and if one thing can be delegated it’s that. 😀
I did think that but checked several times and was still on the base setting. I think I mentally just managed to drop 100mm while repeating the number to myself walking between room and mitre saw. 🙄
@therestorationcouple the most common miss cut in carpentry and in fact the whole of the building trade is a 100mm. I remember my first year carpentry and joinery teacher at college telling us this and he was so right, I still very occasionally cut the odd piece of timber short and it's always by a 100mm and I've been doing woodwork for nearly thirty years now so you can forgive yourself for that booboo .👍👍🙂🙂
Once You SAID that You Would Foil-Tape the Ceiling-Insulation LATER -- I KEPT Seeing How DIFFICULT to-DO-NOW that seems !!! :-( Argh !!! -- I was SURE that YOU would have TAPED-it BEFORE Nailing-the-Walls-Solid! ;-)
A bit late, but as strange as it sounds there are no electrical zones for a sink it is for the baths and showers. Yes there are diagrams online showing sinks with zone two yet I was informed that these are incorrect.
please keep showing your mistakes like you do. It's nice to see people be people and not be perfect, yet still get the job done.
Yes. I also appreciated that he kept in the explanations, if brief, of where he went wrong and how to still make it work.
The mistakes help us novel beginners to avoid yet understanding the mistakes to avoid
Your rationale for blocking is dead on.
Also, if you hang wallboard vertical, its a moot point, all joints lined on studs. My $.02
hell yes
I've had this video saved in my favorites for a while now and finally rewatched it when working on my tiny home build and did this for my bathroom doorway. I fucked up on a couple cuts but it was nice having you show that you did similar lol. I think I've almost got it fully figured out!
I really like that you show the figuring out part.. a lot of people don’t show that and it’s nice to see.
Great video. Really shows the ups and downs we go through. I'm currently in the middle of a double french door jamb install on a 45°. I was stuck on that triangle/ kite piece. Logic pointed in that direction and you confirmed that. I'm going to add glue since theres a load from the weight of the doors. Thank you.
This video is helping me pass my woodshop class
This was me this evening! 😂 laying everything out and playing with the door to see if it fits lol
i so agree with the positioning of the door. i was hoping and praying you'd put it in the middle when you were debating this inside your head lol. another great job. and there is nothing wrong with you turning into your dad. he seems to be a great one :-)
What a star. Great video, thank you very much.
Never used a laser measure, looks a really handy piece of kit....I think we all turn into our fathers given time 🤔 really enjoy a bit of stud work 👍
Nice big progress there...loving the fact that you show your mistakes...measure twice....cut three times🥴 we’ve all been there.
Having done a 45" angle door recently I initially tried to do something like this and keep it as simple as possible but the issue with this approach is the plasterboard in combination with the architrave won't fit on the inside of the door frame. You have to make short straight section on either side of the door after your 45 angle to allow for these things.
I like Deborrah's idea for the door, it's a neat solution. What I like about it is it is giving you a visual clue that the room is going to be a bit small. If you go with a traditional pine door you are subconsciously expecting the more generous rectangular space behind it. Also a heavier door conveys a message. I've got the crappy Howden's special in my small bathroom, it is 685mm and doubtless filled with cardboard. It returns to a spring thingy on the floor. While the door is naff it does work on a functional basis.
Looking good! If that door you plan to use is solid wood, maybe you could cut it down the middle and hinge it both sides - that way the door and shower pan/glass can't collide, and it would probably look pretty nice as well with some kind of attractive locking hardware in the middle.
What a cool idea! Problem solved.
@@michellejaggard9657 you ladies seem to be forgetting that us guys are lazy buggers !!!! lol Opening TWO doors to go to the loo is a bit much, isn't???? :-))))))))
I'm not trying to be one of those idiots that disagree with people over the internet but I think that would look horrible tbh. If it was hinged on the left then it would miss the shower cubicle/screen anyway.
A standard 30"doorway isnt wide enough for two doors and just wouldn't look right, especially if your just cutting a door smack down the middle. I've seen too many botched doors/doorways in my time as a carpenter/builder. 🙂
Great video..Just loving the progress...I was about to put the slow cooker on...saw your video and couldn’t wait...good job it’s still early! 🤷🏻♀️
Nice work Tim. As ever, a brilliant vlog. Keep up the good work. 👍🍻
I wish I had some of your energy! Brilliant work as always
So *that's* why you've got that collection of salvaged doors ;)
Looking good, a far as noggins go for stud work the rule of thumb is, straight where you have a board edge to carry, otherwise staggered is fine.
Totally love your inspirational work, you are a doer, and you push me to DIY cheers
Again Tim a good job well done. It's all looking so good, give yourself a pat on the back mate....
If you line the inside with OSB before you put the drywall up you will be able fix all your fittings anywhere you want, will also allow you shower screen to be fitted easily. Great videos keep up the good work.
Looks great!
Don't forget to put your plywood pads in for the rad etc......been looking at that nail gun and I like the fact there are scrails for them.
I was waiting for those ceiling angle cuts....
Very helpful 👌
Yeah ))) + length of tool ))) Like your inthusiasm. Good luck.
Thank you that was great to watch
Great video.... your mind seems to work like mine... always trying to figure and problem solve! And as far as the noggins go... I’ve done it both staggered and straight in the past. You could always add an extra noggin on top of the staggered ones to make them level to the next one if you know what I meen. Just more trips to the chop saw and more nails in the gun. Nice little area you have in there to work with👍 take care mate. Marc
Elegant solution.
Deborahs idea about the door is a good one. We have bifold door in our downstairs toilet. That would work well in your case also, folding in and to the right, I think there would be enough room
Good job mate
Why a thumbs down? Own up and say why. Always worth my time to watch a Tim upload.
Your mrs must be so happy to finally be able to make it to the washer in a normal fashion again.
nice !! little tips cut in bevel 2x -2x4 in 45 angle all the lenght of the 2x4 so the lenght of your wall studs and put it between your outside corner each side with your studs cut in 45 and also take the other cut of 45 degres and put the 2 between the outside corner its make solid for the joint of the drywall
Do you not recommend doubling up on your timber for thr door opening?
Did you do a video on fitting the door lining?
Also any recommendations for the filler piece when building with 3x2s?
great video!
We're fully insulating our single brick utility room which is at the back of the garage and creating almost exactly what you did here (bit smaller) for downstairs loo. Door from garage is on the wall where your boiler is, then door from kitchen at right angles to that, facing where door into WC needs to go, and we're putting base units on the kitchen door wall. Big window and door on the end wall. If we'd done a door in a straight wall we'd have ended up with a nasty narrow bit and blocked more light out.
Never done anything as big as this before but quotes we were getting were £6 k (with us supplying rad' ,sanitary wear, taps,base units and utility sink, macerator)
Sorry if this is a dumb question,but where is the 45 degree angle measured?
If you drew a line straight across the end of your right hand stud wall (looking into the room),then measure the angle to a line drawn where the inside edge of the door is going to sit, is that the 45 degree angle? Then repeat on the other side?
Did you make a video on putting in the door with the angled studs? Thanks
I'm not allowed to stagger my knoggins...plasterer won't have it!! 😂
Hope that mixer valve for the shower goes in ok. Looking good though.
The rest of the world is now puzzling over the Rodney reference.
Lovely Jubbly!
This time next year...
"Mange tout, mange tout"
Are so you are human good to see your not editing out your mistakes 👍
I see you're not editing out your mistakes either ;)
getting there mate nice one
Regarding the noggins both ways are good enough and neither is strictly a wrong way to do it, they are commonly staggered for ease of fixing though I myself do prefer to have them lined up. The plasterboard absolutely does not need to be supported there though, it is designed to span across your uprights in that manner and doesn't affect the strength of your wall in any way. Yes it's great if the join is supported there but it's absolutely not necessary. 👍🙂
If i was more local i would happily come in and be your electrician.
On your question about the "noggings", (spelling?). Also known as "fire blocking". Where the plaster board would have a solid connection at the seams, this is what I do. Cut another piece of wood the same length, and screw them from the top. You won't need to screw them from the ends, it will give the plaster board support, and use any scrap pieces you have.
Great video as ever. One thing to ponder, as your ceiling has a slope, does that mean you want the top of your door to match it or be square?
The lining will be level to suit standard height door so there will be wall above door. 👍
i'm doing a project now which involved >£1k of CLS. I've ordered at least 10% contingency and thank goodness as angles/constantly cutting too short as well as a few unusable twisted stus make it a sometimes frustrating endeavour!
Good Value guild to make a barn
Better than drawings, paper or computer generated and floor map 🗺 out, physical visual calms the brain 🧠 cells haha I’ve always done a physical visual as well but I love how we have moments of self realization 🤔 that we are in ways becoming our parents 😁 .... Maybe when they filled the doughnut 🍩 the room was slanted and threw them off 🤣🤣.... anther great video with great content 🙌🏽
Excellent, as always! However, did you ever think about building this in masonry to better achieve sound proofing of the bathroom?
Not really as it’s a suspended floor.
The Restoration Couple that makes sense. There’d be a lot of disruption to the sub floor. We’ve had a similar thing done to our cottage but we’ve replaced all floors to concrete with UFH so it was more possible. Love your videos!
Great job! But why don't you install the bidet? It is very useful.
At 21:43 WE had a bit of a walkthrough. When in doubt, ask the boss :)
Hi - if you did it outward opening would this make it easier to access in the future if anyone was in a wheelchair? Thanks
There will be another larger WC in the new side extension at ground floor level which will be wheelchair suitable for any guests or future owners. This bathroom is on split levels so not really needed.
I knew when I saw the start of the video you would have issues with the dimensions of the angled wall. I have chopped corners off in hallways etc and it just makes the house flow better. In our house I am building a new master bath and bedroom and it has a few angled walls at odd angles. I use a double top plate and i let the top plates overrun so they will form lap joints. At most angles this means you will may have a point sticking out on an outside corner and a missing one inside. As for the horizontal blocking. It isn't required for drywall support. In fact it's best practice to not put fasteners into any horizontal lumber because they expand and contract opposite of the wall studs. Best practice is to use acoustic sealant at the top and bottom (or everywhere). I wish had a easy way to email you a few pics of how those plates are cut.
Oh and to add. Even though I'm in the US I get the Rodney comment. My favorite episode was the chandelier cleaning one.
Sounds interesting, think I understand. My email is in the description if you have pics, always like to see other methods for things. 👍
I don't stagger the bracing in the walls. When I am hanging dry wall or later looking for a solid surface to nail to I expect it to run in a straight line horizonal as well as vertical. If staggered once the studs have been covered it is very difficult to find the boards at different levels. Just my opinion on how and why I do it that way. Bathroom is looking good.
could do a curved wall but square it off on the inside so a towel rail sat flat in it?
You only need a straight row of noggins to pick up the edge of the board if your studs are at 600mm centres. If your studs are at 400mm centres noggins are only there for stiffening the wall up, not for picking up the board, and you can put a staggered row half way up the wall. Hope that helps.
Good video this. Looking at partitioning a bedroom up with a similar space to yours to provide an ensuite bathroom. Available space in the room is a little tight though, so keen to also use the angled doorway design to aid the flow around of the main room. Is the finished internal length of both of your new stud walls approximately 1.2m off their back walls, after the boiler is boxed in?
Yes, both the straights are around 1200. Not sure on total size off the top of my head.
We have an ensuite this size and wish it was another 300mm wider both ways
For 45's. Here's the trick. Mark the END of your stud form one corner to the other and make a hash mark on each side of that line. Set your table saw to that angle using the end of the board as a guide. Rip the stud. Flip one side that you just sawed so that sawed faces meet, but one hash marked end is opposite from the other. Next, Take a stud, mate it to the milled site of each half. Those will make up your corner, fill the void, and create the angles needed for the base and cap which would be 22.5 degrees if you're just going to use a protractor.
You seem like an extremely competent DIYer. Curious why you chose not to hang and plumb your radiators and why you are not doing first fix on the electrics? Both simple jobs that would be well within your ability from what I see on the videos.
I do my studs in line and generally 1.2m centres - better to support board and conveniently rockwool slabs slot straight in if you are using them!
Was the error that the laser level setting was reading from the front of the device whereas before it was (correctly) reading from the rear?
- I’ve done that a few times myself.... infuriating!
Good place for bifold doors
Possibly, having used them in a few places I’m not a higher fan but might be a good option, providing there is a cover strip over gap down the middle! 😬 🚽
Theres 2 settings on those laser tape measures, one is for measuring from flush with the surface, the other with it sitting on top of the surface. Looks like you were missing the length of the laser tape measure off the top of those studs :D :D ....I have done this myself
Are you installing digital thermostats to tie into a home automation system?
We have a nest unit for the main downstairs zone of the house but will likely use a standard stat for these couple of rooms.
I’d always stagger noggins in the middle of a board part out of laziness and part out of thinking you get a more positive fixing. I’d try to have them inline where 2 boards are butt jointed.
Personally I would have the door open outwards to the bath room or consider having the room square and having a door that slides inside the stud wall. In regards to the noggins I don’t think it makes a big difference to the board which way you go, but I generally find it better to put the plasterboard vertically
How I do it is, for wall, from top right to bottom left run a 1x4, you have to cut into the stud so it sits in there nailed on.
How you did it we all fire block, not for strength, but everyone hate that because if the wall is done and plumbing or electric have to run a line they have to drill thru them block's.
Everyone does it how they want.
have you considered a bi-fold door?
Where’s the header on your door?
Mistakes are good. We learn 😉. Take a look at “the crazy framer” Canadian guy not often in tee shirts.
Tim one thing I am unclear about is that the standard way of stud walling seems to be top plate, sole plate, plumb and chalk lines, then knock the timbers in tight with a mallet. Doesn't the traditional way produce a stronger fixing than the cassette way you are doing it? I am only asking because I have heard Roger Bisby talk about how much force a toilet fixing exerts on a wall, and that he has heard of instances where the wall has moved when someone has been on the toilet.
Great video as always, I don't know if there is a right or wrong way of doing stud walling but just wanted to make the point that bathrooms do put more stress on stud walls than say a room dividing wall. Also if you get a bit of movement could it compromise the tiles and water tightness of the shower say???
To be fair Roger did say that is only on floating toilets most toilets sit on the floor which Tim's will be, frame building and stick building studwork are fine both ways
Thanks - Tim's way seems a good deal easier so was just wondering if it was a bit too good to be true so to speak.
@@dannymurphy1779I like his vids think making it as a frame is harder for amateurs and he would of been better stick building the 3 walls, ceiling insulation wouldn't of helped him tho
Ours is a square room with a pocket door better than a swinging door
Use a tape measure?
u are inspirational :D
Watching this very late obviously... But I would have put the door going out, this equates to more space inside the bathroom area
A door doesn't always have to hinge …. have a think about it and consider all the ways a door can work.
Thanks very much. Nice to see someone else losing it. I wouldn't have the courage to show that on video.
How is that gone be with the door and a sloped roof and small strange side corners. Hehehe im gone wait for that door;). I would have made a small high window in that wall for some air flowing true that small room and some natural light ( next to the heating system above the white part)...
It will be a standard door, there will be wall above it. A sun tube or roof window would have been nice but the wall you mentioned is now around 600mm deep so not an ideal spot for a window. This room is a bit of a bonus and on a tight budget so can’t be too fancy. 😟
You don’t need to mitre your stud work. Just put all the square edges together and cut angled wedges to fit between the connecting walls
When you plate you only chalk line the outside. Let the plates from sides run wild, put the shortest piece on top and sight your angle from above. Make your skillsaw cut right on the floor, the blade marks the plates below. Knock down the plates and finish your cuts. Mark your studs and cut them to your shortest length less an eighth inch, stand up, shim, nail and your done. That framing should take less than thirty minutes with cutting your 45 degree tack stud.
Now that you have reduced your angle on the doorway, will your door fit now.
Thankfully yes, although teh lining will need a couple of mm off it each side so will pass it through thicknesser.
Why don t you use a bi-fold door , opening in ?
Forgive me but its nice to see you are human after all - good job you don't make as many "hiccups" as I do! Noggins - stagger but use scrap on top of lower ones to get straight line for plaster board? Please keep sharing, have Dick and Dora recovered from being terrorised by the Gator?
Come on Tim, why do you have a plumber doing underfloor heating and rads???
I've done all my plumbing myself, including underfloor heating and an unvented cylinder, and you're way more capable than I am!
It’s more for the pumps, valves and stats side of things as we run multiple zones and controls. I’m sure I could manage it myself (just) however limited on time and if one thing can be delegated it’s that. 😀
Looks like you accidently set your laser to measure from its front site instead of the rear.... don’t ask me how I know 🙈
I did think that but checked several times and was still on the base setting. I think I mentally just managed to drop 100mm while repeating the number to myself walking between room and mitre saw. 🙄
@therestorationcouple the most common miss cut in carpentry and in fact the whole of the building trade is a 100mm. I remember my first year carpentry and joinery teacher at college telling us this and he was so right, I still very occasionally cut the odd piece of timber short and it's always by a 100mm and I've been doing woodwork for nearly thirty years now so you can forgive yourself for that booboo .👍👍🙂🙂
No one need to know. Except UA-cam. Your secret is safe buddy. 🤐😆
➡️?
Bathroom walls should have ply not pb on the joints cut 45s stick like shit is the best glue for the ply.
All my angles are 45 ....
Once You SAID that You Would Foil-Tape the Ceiling-Insulation LATER -- I KEPT Seeing How DIFFICULT to-DO-NOW that seems !!! :-( Argh !!!
-- I was SURE that YOU would have TAPED-it BEFORE Nailing-the-Walls-Solid! ;-)
You dont need that stud on the floor for your doorway
A bit late, but as strange as it sounds there are no electrical zones for a sink it is for the baths and showers. Yes there are diagrams online showing sinks with zone two yet I was informed that these are incorrect.