How To Replace Your BMW Vacuum Pipe! DIY!
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2018
- In this video, I’ll share How To Replace Your BMW Vacuum Pipe! DIY!
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Have 30FF code and stumbled upon this video, I need to replace the line from the right canister to the connection behind the oil filter, both ends are worn badly. Meanwhile also time to replace my boost solenoids to the new improved Pierburg ones and hope my 30FF on 3d gear high rpm will be gone! Not a big fan of DCI though, they give a little less throttle response and torque down low in my opinion, I've tested it. Now running Z4 35is airbox and airscoops. Keep up the vids man!
Why not use new silicone vacuum hoses every where you could?
Part #'s and where did you get them? Need to do this as I just replaced my valve cover and pretty sure I broke a line close to the vacuum canisters.
The two lines in my car look identical that run to the vacuum... capsule. Do I need one of each of the thing in the description? Is 3.5mm platinum silicon acceptable?
did it make any difference after the replacement hoses.
can someone please tell me what the lines at 10:36 that go to the vacuum canisters are called? doing a full vacuum line refresh and they don't look like standard lines.
hi, i have a bmw e87, 123d. the problem is that my mechanic changed my vacuum hose positions because he saw that one was canceled with a nail. After 1 month I went to the BMW dealership and they said that the vacuum hoses are incorrectly installed. Do you have the correct vacuum hose scheme? (with that hose canceled) my car e87, 123d, 2008 thank you!
oh guise, im going to need to take down notes. Thanks Lee for another great DIY!
i know im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost the password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Charlie Krew instablaster :)
@Ellis Douglas I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Do you what the pipe with the two openings on each side that allow another one to clip in that is insulated? I can't seem to find out what that is so I can replace it
Where is the Vanos solenoid on my 2014 528i, Im having rough idling with no codes
WAS THIS CAUSING ERROR CODES? SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT IN PARTICULAR?
This boost “issue” could be your secondary catalytic converters. Mine were clogged/slightly melted together causing low boost situations and 30ff. I would suggest disconnecting your downpipes from your secondary cats and log in order to see if that was indeed the problem and if it has improved before going ahead and replacing the secondary cats. Hope I could have helped any :)
How did you figure that out (what kind of symptoms were showing)?Did you add cat cleaner to your fuel to fix this?
I was wondering is there a (certain website) where you get to learn to DIY for certain models...?
Hey fanatic. I love these videos of yours. Very helpful. My question is would a leak in these lines effect heat getting to my cabin? The fan works, the hvac controls are set to the warmest settings, however, only cold air enters the cabin. It’s cold where I am so I can’t tell if the ac is working.thanks in advance
Did you get a fix for it ? Same thing is going on for mine
Idk why bmw made those lines half out of plastic.. i just replaced it with a sturdy rubber vaccuum line completely
I can‘t find the pipe that you declare as the breather hose which you slit at the bottom to release. Do you have the part number of this tube?
It's the brake booster tube. Look on ECS Tuning. Just ordered one. I'd show you a picture but don't think I can on here
What do you know about p1093
My vacuum hose is leaking fuel into the air box. Any ideas what causes this?
To anyone who sees this and has the same problem, issue was a messed up petrol filter, I replaced it and it stopped that problem.
When you connected the new hoses back onto the vacuum pump hose (near the oil filter) does it matter which one goes on top or bottom or can they go onto either nipple. 13:10
Nope! Doesn’t matter.
when doing all of my vacuum lines, i changed these same 2 exact lines to the platinum high cured silicone 3.5mm hoses. I still have the old ones just in case. did i make a giant mistake? i am getting a 30ff boost leak code sometimes when i step on the throttle as well. any help would be appreciated!
30ff is a boost leak somewhere mine was caused by stock charge pipe cracked
@svtfast 30ff is not always wastegate or anything to do with actual turbo
I have a 2007 335i and my alternator recently gave up on me . Would you recommend I take it to a mechanic or can I DIY .
Not a hard DIY I had to replace mine
It's a huge pain in the ass. I just did mine last weekend, and would rate it as one of the harder things I had to tackle, DIY or not. I work on helicopters for a living and I though it was tough. 8/10 on difficulty level for an inexperienced mechanic.
Would this hose cause “Engine malfunction reduced power” code when the throttle is pressed to get up to higher speeds?
Neftali DeLaRosa Jr It is possible. One of my lines was loose where it connected to my vaccum canister and caused that code whenever I accelerated hard. I just replaced all the line to prevent future leaks
My does that when I accelerate and it’s hot outside.
marloncates2 did the message stop?
Yes, absolutely. Uneven waste gate controls will cause DME to disable vaccum and leave them wide open, thus the engine is operating under reduced power (no turbos) due to malfunction.
Brad Murrani so it could be Waste Gate issues or vacuum hoses?
Awesome vid, have one question tho, are you ever gonna put an lsd in that beast? :3
Bobb S Buying my N55 Car next, so would rather do that first since that will be modded too
Whats oem bmw part #
Random question for you or anybody here... will that hose release vacuum when you disconnect it? I'm trying to diagnose a bad brake booster check valve, or whatever else could possibly be causing a vacuum leak. I don't remember for sure, but I don't think that line was holding vacuum the last time I unhooked it.
If I understand your question correctly, then yes. But why not just replace all the vacuum lines one by one to rule them out?
It’s been a while so I’m not 100% sure what I ended up doing, but I don’t think I found any leaks.
Unrelated question however I wanted to ask you since we have the same exact vehicle. I am smell gas near the rear ( outside) of the car but I did accidentally full my tank then was putting sea foam into the tank and it spilled over the side idk if that is causing the smell or not. However I washed the car immediately after. Please HELP!!!!
Thank you ☺️
I just fixed mine for that reason! Take off your back seat bottom (by pulling it off with force) and unscrew the circular metal covers on either side to where you can see the plastic fuel pump housing as well as the fuel pressure regulator A.K.A. fuel filter or sending unit. When those leak there's an inconspicuous path causing the excess fuel to leak out right over your rear wheels hense the smell. Start the car and examine those spots for leaks as you push the gas because mine straight up squirted me in the face with gasoline yet no check engine lights. Some people cover that with epoxy of fiber glass but I just changed my fuel pressure regulator for the smallest slit in the plastic.
Peter Carvo yeah you could be leaking fuel from the tank under the seat, check that first as mentioned
Brad Murrani Thank you I will check it. Crossing my fingers that is it. 😬
BMW Fanatic ok will do.
Thank you
Peter Carvo ..injectors .. leaking.
I thought u did the cowl delete permanently:(
Drove without my cowl to go change an oxygen sensor at my mechanic. Hated all the ticking and extra engine noise. Thank god I kept my cowl.
I have a 2010 bmw 328i and it has started having uneasy idling. When am driving and i make a stop at the traffic light, then it vibrates once then vibrates again...do you know any idea of what the problem could be
75% chance fuel injectors need cleaning; 25% chance VANOS Solenoids need cleaning.
I’ll will do both and see what happens
One more thing, it also feels like the car’s engine is going turn off
Sounds like you may be keeping your oil level closer to minimum; turboed cars shoot oil out the turbines so the dealership will tell you to constantly top it off! Majority of the BMW combustion mechanism relies on extremely high oil pressure for valve timing control and such.
There are no error codes and my car is not turbo
Should have just used the hose for the entire line from the cannister to the end, rather than keeping the skinny x2 plastic tubes that run across the spark plug area.
Can i just put rubber hoses or does it have to be the ones you’re installing?
Christian Martinez Others have done just hoses, but those hard lines are there for a reason with braided lines on both ends
You'd have change them out again by next summer but it works
Brad Murrani oh okay great thanks boss
BMW Fanatic oh okay thanks boss
You're welcome @@christianmartinez6224 if you do, reuse the original plastic hard lines over the valve cover if they're still good, and hit the driver side heavy with electrical tape or something for heat insulation, not that it's more important but less cool airflow there so it's hotter on your rubber hosing.
👍👌
Soo, I kinda need some advice, one of my ground wires for my injectors, the loop got ripped off from the wires, I'm going to bmw for help tomorrow but if anyone has anything to say that will help me sleep tonight it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, I know I just need to cut the wire back, strip the rubber and crimp on a new loop ground connector, problem is I dont know exactly what it's called but I'm fudged until I get this sorted, last result is a dealer r.i.p wallet I cant afford this right now:'(
Burnt Avocado Its just the ground, I would strip it back and re-crimp it and then re attach it.
Burnt Avocado Would be a little different of a story if it was Your Injector connector that you had to fix, but anything electrical with wires is fixable
Been there done that; brought my soldering iron to the engine bay and soldered it right back on the spot.
This is confusing as hell, with all the close ups. You should do a wide angle shot for like 90% of this, and only zoom in to shot some particular detail. Another reason it's confusing to me is because I've relocated the vacuum canisters, pwr steer fluid housing and coolant expansion tank to the other side. So the close ups are NOT helping!!!
BMW BOOST LEAK ISSUE PART 2! PLEASE :)
Why'd you delete this video yesterday? saw my canister connections broken after I pulled the lines off BTW they were very stuck on there.
Brad Murrani had to fix something with the video, sorry!
Brad Murrani yeah those like to break, which sucks because it’s another part you need to fix
My bone stock 07 335i With 80k has recently developed a siren sound. Can anyone tell me could these vacuum lines be the cause of the siren like sound? What could be causing this sound?
Turbo
Why let your engine breath hot air?...
Wish you were my neighbor. 😂
Freddie Diaz thinking the same thing 😂
Freddie Diaz Are you close to Ohio? 😀
BMW Fanatic Im from San Diego, California. Love the vids bro. Thanks!
Freddie Diaz I have an office out in Covina and Rancho Cucamonga
Freddie Diaz Not that close, but close enough lol
This is the sixth "Vacuum line replace" video I've watched and the Sixth time I've been let down. HOW DO I reach the vacuum line to the front turbo?? Sigh......Trying your other one next.
This DIY is not for the turbo ones though….to reach that pull out the vacuum canisters and then you’ll be able to reach the front turbo
Remove the two bolts holding the vacuum canisters in and reach down there and grab ahold! It's seriously not hard if you look at it!
@@joshuaquilliam2887 Awesome help Thank you big time!!
@@BMWFanatic Awesome help Thank you big time!!
1st
Bmw =big money waster.. and bad quality
Wtf bro how did you undo the pug that was on line you cut