Hey! why did you stop at the chuck shaft? That's where I have the problem. I haven't found any way to get off the plastic around that unit. My intuition tells me that since when looking inside the chuck from the front you see the good old left hand threaded bolt.. indicating that chuck is removable! I got the bolt out and I mounted an allen key in the chuck and in good faith I gave it a good leverage while smashing the allen key with a large screw driver as I always have done. Newer had any problem with chuck changes. So what I'm left with is where you suddenly and unexpectedly stopped and returned! My question to you is so far: why the bolt in the bottom of the chuck if it isn't removable.. is it a hint to the user "just go ahead.. see if you're able to remove it" If this is the case I've had it with BOSCH.
Cok guzel anlatım sizin gibi anlatan yok benim bir sorum olacak yeni aldim bende bu matkaptan ve sıkıntı oldu matkap kendini korumaya qliyor 3 -5 dk sonra normal oluyor çalışıyor.
@@GrantBurton 12:40 yes, that PCB looks quite repairable for anyone with basic electronic tools and moderate troubleshooting skills. And those transistors that drive the motor, if they are quality MOSFETs, they can handle a lot of thermal stress that will not shorten their lifetime. The lack of an aluminum heatsink is not always a red flag, that PCB may be multi-layer and under the MOSFETs there could be many thermal vias to dissipate the heat into inner copper areas.
6:10 the led of this is auto on right? no switch like dewalt. looks like there is enough room to add a on off switch there and make a hole for the nob. Sometimes I dont like small led. I just wanted them off
Hi Dan Dan, yes… it’s an auto on/off LED light (no switch like on the Dewalt). I suppose you could add a switch but it’s probably easier to just stick a piece of tape over the light if you want it off 😂
Nice teardown. I have the same drill and auto lock feature stopped working. It still grabs but rarely and I need to make multiple rotations. Do you have idea what could go wrong?
Hi Mohamad, there is a a basic review video of the Bosch GSB 18v-50 drill on my channel, not sure if you have seen it yet? ua-cam.com/video/-HEM48SHdLY/v-deo.htmlsi=h0iULCzw7x2_55ws
Hi Randall, thanks for the comment. Once you get it and have used it, please let everybody know what you think and if you are happy with the purchase. Guessing you also saw the review video I made of this drill?
@@GrantBurton just picked it up. Surprised by how compact it is next to the gsb120! I'll be 3d printing some battery mounts for the 2 extra batteries once loadshedding eases up. I can't believe I waited this long
It is pretty compact when you think of how much power it delivers... Drills and Impact drivers are getting pretty impressive these days. Are you 3D printing battery mounts as a wall storage solution or did you have something else in mind?
@@GrantBurton truly impressive size to output ratio. Yep 3d printing mounts for both. 2 x battery mounts and an undercounter holster type mount for the drill with a battery. I found one design that hangs the drill upside down by its battery mount but I prefer to just grab and go.
Yip... SA 😂😂 Thanks... there are a couple other Bosch (and other) tool related videos as well if you are interested ua-cam.com/play/PLb9ne7k5ibAo_ajJ_3YwWReM5jMI3O4WO.html
Funny, i just recently bought a bosch impact along with two 8ah bat and charger, the thing that sold me were the batteries, easy to repair. Then i bartered with one of my clients for his broken power tools from his shop. I got 5 makita grinders worth $800 new (check me channel, you will see how i fixed 2 of the 9005b without having to buy the stators at absorbent prices for only $10 each) and two cordless 18v makita hammer drills. One is brushless, the other brushed. And as you mentioned here about the control board, i learned that the brushless on the makira was beyond reasonable to repair due to it being encapsulated in epoxy. And then i looked at my bosch impact and it is also brushless. At that point i regretted my purchase bcoz if the control board gets damaged, i will need to replace it if its encapsulated in epoxy like the makita. Hiwever the brush drill is straight forward. Anything in it is easily repaired. There is nothing hidden or in epoxy. So prior to seeing your video here my opinion was if you are using the tools commercially to go with the brushed versions. For a little longer tool due to the motors having brushes and a commutator you can rest assured that when it breaks from being dropped or any unintentional mishap that 9 times out of 10 it can be repaired for maybe under $30. As opposed to spending $200 to replace the whole control board. The brush drill i got look like one of the windings in the armature came loose and made contact with the magnet and shorted out. The brushless i think its the board mounted to the motor with the hall effect sensors bcoz it look like the drill was drop and impacted on the back cover before anything else bending the mounting screw. So, i cant find a replacement board and everything there has clear epoxy coating it. Still tho imo, brushless might not be as necessary or good as its brushed counter part. Only pros that are very valid but not big deal breakers are: more efficient-no brushes no friction or energy loss there, more smaller compact motor, and i think it might run cooler. Other than that it may break sooner due to more electronics that are susceptible to many things such as vibration, heat, water, humidity, dust, corrosion. Anyway, great vid. Thx for making it. Hope you review more tools, this here is what i said on my facebook post when sharing your video there: So, I was researching the bosch lights that run on the core batteries and this guy did a good video on that. Then i looked at his channel and turns out a friend of his bought a bosch cordless set and let him unbox and review all the tools. Running through the reviews i found this one, a teardown of one of the cordless BRUSHLESS drills. Yes, brushless. He even makes mention of my concern about brushless. Look at the control board, its completely open. You can repair it! Its not dipped in epoxy. You can see, test, and replace every or any individual component on the board. So i tried looking for teardown vids for my impact and surprise surprise i didnt find any, lol. I hope its like this tho. Right now even tho i still think Makita is the better tool overall, this video makes me even more content with my decision on buying into Bosch.
Hello friend! Congratulations on the channel! My 18v50 has the chuck out of alignment, but I identified that it could be the collets that have the slots out of sync. How do I open the chuck? I was able to remove the ring and the metal cover, but I couldn't get any further than that!
Hi, I haven't actually taken apart one of these chucks on the Bosch drill before so can't give any further guidance but if you do find out how to open it. please let us know how.
Hi. HOW IS the Bosch gsb18v-55 overload protection, IF YOU KNOW? If it enters the hole and gets stuck, it can no longer rotate, the drilling machine stops. What do you know about it?
Hi, I'm not to sure... I haven't used or looked at the 18V-55, but I guess it should be similar to the 18V-50. By what you describe (and if the drill is not faulty), it sounds like it is not powerful enough for the size hole you are drilling and the machine is being overloaded and the overload protection is activating in order to protect the drill from burning out.
I understand what you are saying. Now another question if you don't mind. The battery lasts about 1 hour - 1 hour 15 minutes during which I used it continuously, I would use a small brush for rust with a diameter of probably about 5 cm. What do you think? The drilling machine ran continuously for 1 hour, I cleaned the rust. The battery is 4 Amps. What do you think? I think that only 1 hour is too little, if that's how long the battery lasts
I haven't done a runtime test on that drill but 1 hour continuous running sounds reasonable on a 4Ah battery. The 4Ah battery is only 72Wh and I would guess the drill is easily drawing 70W when its running with a wire brush, so 1 hour sounds reasonable.
@@GrantBurton if you ever test your battery, please let me know, I'd like to know if it's normal for the battery to last around 1 hour in total. I am very curious to know. Thank you for the answer
Hi, can you elaborate on what exactly makes the drill not spin while changing whatever you want to put on it? There must be some kind of mechanical brake that prevents you from spinning the motor manually right? (or is the planetary gearbox enough so that you could never spin such a gear-ratio manually?)
Hi Dennis, thanks for your comment. I do a teardown video if somebody were to send one over. I don't have one on hand to teardown. I see the GWS 30-230 is a corded machine.
I suppose you saw a lot of proff. screwdrivers. All of them have gearboxes so frail? And as an overview, is this a trusted model (just your personal opinion)?
Hi Maria, many have plastic gearboxes with metal gears inside. I think the Bosch Professional range of tools is a pretty well trusted range of tools. As for this specific model of drill... for DIY use, I think it's a good choice. Personally, I've got the range of DeWALT cordless tools and I'm very happy with them.
Great video, really. Do you know how long the LED lights after drilling? My takes about 4 minutes, I am not sure that it was so long before. Could you help me, please? Thanks in advance.
Thanks very much. This drills LED stays on for about 10 seconds after releasing the trigger. You can see it in this video ua-cam.com/video/-HEM48SHdLY/v-deo.html at around the 3 minute and 40 second mark.
Potrzebuje pomocy. Mam wkretarke bosch gsr 18v 50 3 601 jh5 000 i po upadku z niskiej wysokosci pojawil sie problem z szybkim biegiem. Da sie zatrzymac glowice reka i slychac jak scieraja sie zeby. Na wolny bieg sie przelacza i dziala normalnie. Rozebralem przekladnie ale tylko do polowy wszystko wyglada dobrze... Czy macie jakies pomysly z czym moze byc problem?
It sounds like something is damaged inside the gearbox... possibly a cracked gearbox case, cracked ring gear or a chipped tooth inside the gearbox (but if the drill was not spinning when it hit the ground, this is not likely the case). If the gearbox is not damaged, then it could possibly be the 'selector fork' that selects between the two gearbox speeds. Maybe when you much the switch from 1 to 2, it's not fully selecting / engaging the fast speed setting. You may need to open the drill and check if the selector fork wire is properly clipped into each side of the gearbox and it's shifting both sides of the metal ring inside the gearbox forward and backwards equally.
Hi Kunal, I’m not sure… not much came up on a quick google search. Maybe try your local Bosch service agent? What happened to your motor… did it burn out?
The quality of your videos really are amazing! I have been enjoying your teardown series, and am also in the market to buy a new impact drill. Have you by any chance handled the new Bosch GSB 185-li. From the specifications and drill body size I recon it might be this model(18V-50) repackaged as an upgrade to the GSB 180-li in their new line-up? Lastly I see a lot of places selling Oubao brushless tools of late here in SA, they seem quite sturdy but it is hard to find a review on them. Plus point is their batteries are interchangeable with Bosch. Any experience using or repairing them?
Hi Stephan, thank you. Had this question a while back so popped into a local hardware store and they were able to get on the line with a Bosch rep. he said the Bosch GSB 185Li and 18v-50 both have very similar specs and functions however the 185Li is a light duty drill compared to the 18v-50. The 185Li has a smaller body / outer case and has lighter duty internal wiring and connections and also a light duty gearbox compared to the 18v-50 model. Overall the 18v-50 is a stronger more heavy duty drill. Unfortunately have no experience with Oubao tools.
@@GrantBurton Thank you Grant, that really helps a lot. Great special on the 18v-50 at builders at the moment, 3 batteries included. Seems to be the one I am going for. Looking forward to future review. Subscribed.
Hi Grant. Yes I did, and have been putting it through its paces. Over all it has been performing very well. The only possible concern for me is the quality of the chuck. The first one came out of the box not assembled straight and had a bit of a wobble. Took it back and the Bosch rep replaced the whole unit same day. The second chuck is much better, but seems to be taking some unexpected wear. Thankful for warranties! I paid R2400, with bag, charger and 3 x 2ah batteries. Was a great sale! I added a 4ah battery, makes a world of difference. Big jump in power output. If anything unexpected happens I will give an update.
Hi Mr. Freeman, I could probably get my hands on another Bosch and Dewalt drill, but not likely Milwaukee because it’s difficult to find in South Africa. I wonder if it will be a worthwhile test though because in all eventuality, they are going to be very similar and likely all to have a small amount of wobble. There is also generally a lot of wobble that is transferred through the drill spindle (compared to a pedestal drill for example) because of the design, size and spacing of the bearing support as the spindle goes into each drills gearbox. These hand drills aren’t precision machines after all.
I also see the same wobble in my identical Bosch drill, and I found it a little distressing when drilling with very slim drillbits, like 1/16" and 1.5 mm bits... the wobble got kind of preocupying! If you find a midpriced drill thas has less wobble, please do a video on it! Could it be that a drill without hammer function would have a more precise running?
@@alfredomarquez9777 I suggest you get a drill with a keyed chuck and without hammer feature! Preferably a corded drill with a metal gearbox since they last a lifetime!
Hello, I would like to ask for help with the screwdriver, burned one part on the board, I would like to know the mark, it is under the designation Q101. If you can find out, I would be very grateful.
Hi, Q101 is likely a transistor but would need the components part number to get an exact replacement. Without a circuit diagram or part number, there is not much we can do... unfortunately it doesn't work to guess in this case. Can you email a close up picture of the component and board to grantburtonbuilds@gmail.com
Well my 18v brushless freak's electronics decided to shit the bed -_- (wouldn't hold selected speed setting and jumped around randomly). Everything else is fine, my older brushed drill w/o electronics works well. *big sigh*. Bosch quoted me $80 for the repair, but I got a deal on a new set which includes the GSB 18v-535C. Damn shame.
Similar happened to a friend of mine with one of the Makita brushless drills... electronics decided to take the rest of the year off... haha... and it was overly expensive to replace them so he ended up buying the brushed version. Great that you got the 535C... how does it compare to the original 18v-50 you had?
@@GrantBurton It was the GDX-1800C that shit the bed, and now I got a kit with another GDX-1800C and GSB 18v-535C. I have a regular brushed drill from bosch too. Sorry it's all not straightforward. I hope the electronics don't shit the bed again.
I think the hammer function is more aimed at drilling small holes (4 - 6mm) in brick walls / mortar joints to hang paintings, etc. nothing more than that... anything more than that it's not good at all. (but this also carries over to many drill brands... way better to but a separate rotary hammer drill... even if its corded).
@@mariapa4911 you should never use hammer on wood it invreases the depth of the spiral lath so plays with the integrity of the screw catch. If more power is needed thats what impact drivers are invented for.
Yeah, isn’t the best but I think all brands will have the odd tool that isn’t as good as others in the line-up. These seem to be a popular choice though.
What type of grease you would use to lubricate the gearbox ?
You looks so polite👌🏼
and caring too...
Thanks very much.
Thank you so much for all these video teardown ! I really love and appreciate,specially dewalt tools !
Hi, thanks very much. Always good to hear that others are finding the videos useful.
Great video. Very thorough and informative.
Hi Brendan, thanks very much.
Hey! why did you stop at the chuck shaft? That's where I have the problem. I haven't found any way to get off the plastic around that unit. My intuition tells me that since when looking inside the chuck from the front you see the good old left hand threaded bolt.. indicating that chuck is removable! I got the bolt out and I mounted an allen key in the chuck and in good faith I gave it a good leverage while smashing the allen key with a large screw driver as I always have done. Newer had any problem with chuck changes.
So what I'm left with is where you suddenly and unexpectedly stopped and returned!
My question to you is so far: why the bolt in the bottom of the chuck if it isn't removable.. is it a hint to the user "just go ahead.. see if you're able to remove it" If this is the case I've had it with BOSCH.
Cok guzel anlatım sizin gibi anlatan yok benim bir sorum olacak yeni aldim bende bu matkaptan ve sıkıntı oldu matkap kendini korumaya qliyor 3 -5 dk sonra normal oluyor çalışıyor.
Nice teardown, nice close-ups, nice explanations! Thank you!
Thanks very much 😁😎🤩
@@GrantBurton 12:40 yes, that PCB looks quite repairable for anyone with basic electronic tools and moderate troubleshooting skills. And those transistors that drive the motor, if they are quality MOSFETs, they can handle a lot of thermal stress that will not shorten their lifetime. The lack of an aluminum heatsink is not always a red flag, that PCB may be multi-layer and under the MOSFETs there could be many thermal vias to dissipate the heat into inner copper areas.
6:10 the led of this is auto on right? no switch like dewalt. looks like there is enough room to add a on off switch there and make a hole for the nob. Sometimes I dont like small led. I just wanted them off
Hi Dan Dan, yes… it’s an auto on/off LED light (no switch like on the Dewalt). I suppose you could add a switch but it’s probably easier to just stick a piece of tape over the light if you want it off 😂
Nice teardown. I have the same drill and auto lock feature stopped working. It still grabs but rarely and I need to make multiple rotations. Do you have idea what could go wrong?
04:51 So when you throw your drill into your truck, bag whatever is doesn't accidentally hit the trigger and run the battery down.
Great video. 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Good video 👌
Hi Cesar, thanks very much 😊
I like it
I wish you work with it to see how this device is in the practice
Hi Mohamad, there is a a basic review video of the Bosch GSB 18v-50 drill on my channel, not sure if you have seen it yet? ua-cam.com/video/-HEM48SHdLY/v-deo.htmlsi=h0iULCzw7x2_55ws
Mooi teardown oom Grant. And I am about to buy one
Hi Randall, thanks for the comment. Once you get it and have used it, please let everybody know what you think and if you are happy with the purchase. Guessing you also saw the review video I made of this drill?
@@GrantBurton just picked it up. Surprised by how compact it is next to the gsb120! I'll be 3d printing some battery mounts for the 2 extra batteries once loadshedding eases up. I can't believe I waited this long
It is pretty compact when you think of how much power it delivers... Drills and Impact drivers are getting pretty impressive these days. Are you 3D printing battery mounts as a wall storage solution or did you have something else in mind?
@@GrantBurton truly impressive size to output ratio. Yep 3d printing mounts for both. 2 x battery mounts and an undercounter holster type mount for the drill with a battery. I found one design that hangs the drill upside down by its battery mount but I prefer to just grab and go.
South African accent? I'm loving it.
Lekker video, by the way!
Yip... SA 😂😂 Thanks... there are a couple other Bosch (and other) tool related videos as well if you are interested ua-cam.com/play/PLb9ne7k5ibAo_ajJ_3YwWReM5jMI3O4WO.html
@@GrantBurtonI Subscribed and surley will watch the rest when I get a chance. I am South African too, it was easy to spot the accent😅.
Funny, i just recently bought a bosch impact along with two 8ah bat and charger, the thing that sold me were the batteries, easy to repair. Then i bartered with one of my clients for his broken power tools from his shop. I got 5 makita grinders worth $800 new (check me channel, you will see how i fixed 2 of the 9005b without having to buy the stators at absorbent prices for only $10 each) and two cordless 18v makita hammer drills. One is brushless, the other brushed. And as you mentioned here about the control board, i learned that the brushless on the makira was beyond reasonable to repair due to it being encapsulated in epoxy. And then i looked at my bosch impact and it is also brushless. At that point i regretted my purchase bcoz if the control board gets damaged, i will need to replace it if its encapsulated in epoxy like the makita. Hiwever the brush drill is straight forward. Anything in it is easily repaired. There is nothing hidden or in epoxy. So prior to seeing your video here my opinion was if you are using the tools commercially to go with the brushed versions. For a little longer tool due to the motors having brushes and a commutator you can rest assured that when it breaks from being dropped or any unintentional mishap that 9 times out of 10 it can be repaired for maybe under $30. As opposed to spending $200 to replace the whole control board. The brush drill i got look like one of the windings in the armature came loose and made contact with the magnet and shorted out. The brushless i think its the board mounted to the motor with the hall effect sensors bcoz it look like the drill was drop and impacted on the back cover before anything else bending the mounting screw. So, i cant find a replacement board and everything there has clear epoxy coating it. Still tho imo, brushless might not be as necessary or good as its brushed counter part. Only pros that are very valid but not big deal breakers are: more efficient-no brushes no friction or energy loss there, more smaller compact motor, and i think it might run cooler. Other than that it may break sooner due to more electronics that are susceptible to many things such as vibration, heat, water, humidity, dust, corrosion.
Anyway, great vid. Thx for making it. Hope you review more tools, this here is what i said on my facebook post when sharing your video there:
So,
I was researching the bosch lights that run on the core batteries and this guy did a good video on that. Then i looked at his channel and turns out a friend of his bought a bosch cordless set and let him unbox and review all the tools.
Running through the reviews i found this one, a teardown of one of the cordless BRUSHLESS drills. Yes, brushless. He even makes mention of my concern about brushless. Look at the control board, its completely open. You can repair it! Its not dipped in epoxy. You can see, test, and replace every or any individual component on the board. So i tried looking for teardown vids for my impact and surprise surprise i didnt find any, lol. I hope its like this tho.
Right now even tho i still think Makita is the better tool overall, this video makes me even more content with my decision on buying into Bosch.
Absolutely the best tech video I've ever seen 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Manuela, thanks very much 😁 There are also others like this on my channel if you like. Thanks for leaving a comment.
Hello friend! Congratulations on the channel!
My 18v50 has the chuck out of alignment, but I identified that it could be the collets that have the slots out of sync. How do I open the chuck?
I was able to remove the ring and the metal cover, but I couldn't get any further than that!
Hi, I haven't actually taken apart one of these chucks on the Bosch drill before so can't give any further guidance but if you do find out how to open it. please let us know how.
Hi. HOW IS the Bosch gsb18v-55 overload protection, IF YOU KNOW?
If it enters the hole and gets stuck, it can no longer rotate, the drilling machine stops. What do you know about it?
Hi, I'm not to sure... I haven't used or looked at the 18V-55, but I guess it should be similar to the 18V-50. By what you describe (and if the drill is not faulty), it sounds like it is not powerful enough for the size hole you are drilling and the machine is being overloaded and the overload protection is activating in order to protect the drill from burning out.
I understand what you are saying. Now another question if you don't mind. The battery lasts about 1 hour - 1 hour 15 minutes during which I used it continuously, I would use a small brush for rust with a diameter of probably about 5 cm. What do you think? The drilling machine ran continuously for 1 hour, I cleaned the rust. The battery is 4 Amps. What do you think? I think that only 1 hour is too little, if that's how long the battery lasts
I haven't done a runtime test on that drill but 1 hour continuous running sounds reasonable on a 4Ah battery. The 4Ah battery is only 72Wh and I would guess the drill is easily drawing 70W when its running with a wire brush, so 1 hour sounds reasonable.
@@GrantBurton if you ever test your battery, please let me know, I'd like to know if it's normal for the battery to last around 1 hour in total. I am very curious to know. Thank you for the answer
@@forestdamian5601 👍
Hi, can you elaborate on what exactly makes the drill not spin while changing whatever you want to put on it? There must be some kind of mechanical brake that prevents you from spinning the motor manually right? (or is the planetary gearbox enough so that you could never spin such a gear-ratio manually?)
These three pins he put in equal spaces in front of the gearbox are kind of a brake.
Excellent Teardown Video. Can you please do a teardown of Bosch Grinder GWS 30-230 B PROFESSIONAL, which has brushless motor.
Hi Dennis, thanks for your comment. I do a teardown video if somebody were to send one over. I don't have one on hand to teardown. I see the GWS 30-230 is a corded machine.
I suppose you saw a lot of proff. screwdrivers. All of them have gearboxes so frail?
And as an overview, is this a trusted model (just your personal opinion)?
Hi Maria, many have plastic gearboxes with metal gears inside. I think the Bosch Professional range of tools is a pretty well trusted range of tools. As for this specific model of drill... for DIY use, I think it's a good choice. Personally, I've got the range of DeWALT cordless tools and I'm very happy with them.
Great video, really. Do you know how long the LED lights after drilling? My takes about 4 minutes, I am not sure that it was so long before. Could you help me, please? Thanks in advance.
Thanks very much. This drills LED stays on for about 10 seconds after releasing the trigger. You can see it in this video ua-cam.com/video/-HEM48SHdLY/v-deo.html at around the 3 minute and 40 second mark.
@@GrantBurton Thank you. I think there is some fault in my tool. Sometimes 10 seconds, sometimes 4 minutes. Very strange. Thanks for your answer.
how to open chuck
Potrzebuje pomocy. Mam wkretarke bosch gsr 18v 50 3 601 jh5 000 i po upadku z niskiej wysokosci pojawil sie problem z szybkim biegiem. Da sie zatrzymac glowice reka i slychac jak scieraja sie zeby. Na wolny bieg sie przelacza i dziala normalnie. Rozebralem przekladnie ale tylko do polowy wszystko wyglada dobrze... Czy macie jakies pomysly z czym moze byc problem?
It sounds like something is damaged inside the gearbox... possibly a cracked gearbox case, cracked ring gear or a chipped tooth inside the gearbox (but if the drill was not spinning when it hit the ground, this is not likely the case).
If the gearbox is not damaged, then it could possibly be the 'selector fork' that selects between the two gearbox speeds. Maybe when you much the switch from 1 to 2, it's not fully selecting / engaging the fast speed setting. You may need to open the drill and check if the selector fork wire is properly clipped into each side of the gearbox and it's shifting both sides of the metal ring inside the gearbox forward and backwards equally.
Were can i get replacement motor of this drill
Hi Kunal, I’m not sure… not much came up on a quick google search. Maybe try your local Bosch service agent? What happened to your motor… did it burn out?
The quality of your videos really are amazing! I have been enjoying your teardown series, and am also in the market to buy a new impact drill. Have you by any chance handled the new Bosch GSB 185-li. From the specifications and drill body size I recon it might be this model(18V-50) repackaged as an upgrade to the GSB 180-li in their new line-up? Lastly I see a lot of places selling Oubao brushless tools of late here in SA, they seem quite sturdy but it is hard to find a review on them. Plus point is their batteries are interchangeable with Bosch. Any experience using or repairing them?
Hi Stephan, thank you. Had this question a while back so popped into a local hardware store and they were able to get on the line with a Bosch rep. he said the Bosch GSB 185Li and 18v-50 both have very similar specs and functions however the 185Li is a light duty drill compared to the 18v-50. The 185Li has a smaller body / outer case and has lighter duty internal wiring and connections and also a light duty gearbox compared to the 18v-50 model.
Overall the 18v-50 is a stronger more heavy duty drill.
Unfortunately have no experience with Oubao tools.
@@GrantBurton Thank you Grant, that really helps a lot. Great special on the 18v-50 at builders at the moment, 3 batteries included. Seems to be the one I am going for. Looking forward to future review. Subscribed.
Hi Stephan, did you end up buying the drill? If so, what are your thoughts so far?
Hi Grant. Yes I did, and have been putting it through its paces. Over all it has been performing very well. The only possible concern for me is the quality of the chuck. The first one came out of the box not assembled straight and had a bit of a wobble. Took it back and the Bosch rep replaced the whole unit same day. The second chuck is much better, but seems to be taking some unexpected wear. Thankful for warranties!
I paid R2400, with bag, charger and 3 x 2ah batteries. Was a great sale! I added a 4ah battery, makes a world of difference. Big jump in power output.
If anything unexpected happens I will give an update.
Здравствуйте.Скажите пожалуйста сколько подшипников в редукторе.Зарание большое спасибо.
Can the chuck set(chuck +gear box) can be fitted to gsr body?
Hi Jason, I’m not sure 🤔 if the clamshell case and the motor have the same part number, then I guess that it would fit (but that’s just a guess).
Hi. Here is ROHM drills socket? No information about this part.
I'm not sure I understand the question?
@@GrantBurton I mean, Rohm drill Chuck on this tool or not?
Can you test the chuck wobble and compare it to other brands like dewalt or milwauke!?
Hi Mr. Freeman, I could probably get my hands on another Bosch and Dewalt drill, but not likely Milwaukee because it’s difficult to find in South Africa.
I wonder if it will be a worthwhile test though because in all eventuality, they are going to be very similar and likely all to have a small amount of wobble. There is also generally a lot of wobble that is transferred through the drill spindle (compared to a pedestal drill for example) because of the design, size and spacing of the bearing support as the spindle goes into each drills gearbox.
These hand drills aren’t precision machines after all.
@@GrantBurton Thanks for the reply :)
You are right so I'll probably stick to the cheap Parkside Performance 80nm drill :/
I also see the same wobble in my identical Bosch drill, and I found it a little distressing when drilling with very slim drillbits, like 1/16" and 1.5 mm bits... the wobble got kind of preocupying! If you find a midpriced drill thas has less wobble, please do a video on it! Could it be that a drill without hammer function would have a more precise running?
@@alfredomarquez9777 I suggest you get a drill with a keyed chuck and without hammer feature!
Preferably a corded drill with a metal gearbox since they last a lifetime!
Hello, I would like to ask for help with the screwdriver, burned one part on the board, I would like to know the mark, it is under the designation Q101. If you can find out, I would be very grateful.
Hi, Q101 is likely a transistor but would need the components part number to get an exact replacement. Without a circuit diagram or part number, there is not much we can do... unfortunately it doesn't work to guess in this case. Can you email a close up picture of the component and board to grantburtonbuilds@gmail.com
Could u please write code of mosfet next to red wire at 13:02
Well my 18v brushless freak's electronics decided to shit the bed -_- (wouldn't hold selected speed setting and jumped around randomly).
Everything else is fine, my older brushed drill w/o electronics works well. *big sigh*. Bosch quoted me $80 for the repair, but I got a deal on a new set which includes the GSB 18v-535C.
Damn shame.
Similar happened to a friend of mine with one of the Makita brushless drills... electronics decided to take the rest of the year off... haha... and it was overly expensive to replace them so he ended up buying the brushed version. Great that you got the 535C... how does it compare to the original 18v-50 you had?
@@GrantBurton It was the GDX-1800C that shit the bed, and now I got a kit with another GDX-1800C and GSB 18v-535C. I have a regular brushed drill from bosch too.
Sorry it's all not straightforward. I hope the electronics don't shit the bed again.
That's strange how they have the board connected to the motor. Not to mention the board is not potted.
👍👍👍
Thanks
Second
jy moet afrikaans wees!
Haha... nope, I'm english.
Great video! Anyone knows what brand is this chuck?
Thanks very much.
First!
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Thanks for the thumbs up and comment.
bad idea to even manufacture these little toys for concrette drilling, the hummer function is an engineering joke,,
u re better served with the 50 bucks grand daddy wired hummer drill.
I think the hammer function is more aimed at drilling small holes (4 - 6mm) in brick walls / mortar joints to hang paintings, etc. nothing more than that... anything more than that it's not good at all. (but this also carries over to many drill brands... way better to but a separate rotary hammer drill... even if its corded).
@@GrantBurton true. Better even vorded if possible so you do nkt da.ave the battery connectors
There are some versus reviews on yt where I descovered that hammer function is very effective on screwing in wood.
@@mariapa4911 you should never use hammer on wood it invreases the depth of the spiral lath so plays with the integrity of the screw catch. If more power is needed thats what impact drivers are invented for.
Man this is nowhere near as nice as the Bosch drills that cost $20 more.
Yeah, isn’t the best but I think all brands will have the odd tool that isn’t as good as others in the line-up. These seem to be a popular choice though.