In this video I show you an easy way to recharge or top off the A/C in your car with a Manifold Gauge Set. In the First part I will review and talk about the Harbor Freight Manifold Gauge Set. The Second part I will show you how to use the Gauge Set. The Third part I will go into a detailed explanation about how to recharge your AC system. I will give you a full walkthrough, so if you have doubts about how to recharge your AC be sure to stay all the way through to the end of the video where I go into greater detail about how to do it right and do it yourself for cheap. You don't have to pay hundreds of dollars to a professional. I will show you how to do it yourself and save money.
I wanted to surprise my husband while he was at work and charge the air conditioner. So I found your video , followed the instructions and it was an easy process. The air conditioner works perfectly. Later I showed him your tutorial and we had to pause the video several times because he was so excited and we got romantic with each other. We’re so happy. Thanks from Mark & Anthony
You're not long winded, I like information. I've been watching several videos like this. I have a couple a/c lines to replace so I'll have to vacuum the system. That seems straight forward but then I'll recharge, that's the part for me that's mystifying. You've done a great job explaining the process, thank you for that!
Thank You !!! I had to buy a new adapter for the can as the 8 month old one made the whole can leak out and did not seal at all. Thanks for this video, I forgot how to do it and needed a reminder.
I know this is a generalized look at topping off your AC. But it would be good to mention that you should "Burp" your freon input of air before adding to the system. You want to get the air out of the input line first. You have a great speaking voice ;) Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks for the kind words. When I made the video I did think of mentioning the tip you gave, but I decided not to do it because I didn't want to get a barrage of nasty comments from environmental wackos telling me I am killing the planet by doing that. We know it is harmless, but most uninformed jugheads will just dump all over you about that. They don't understand what is taking place, so they just default to nasty comments. But thanks for mentioning it. 👍
@@ModernDIYProjects I understand totally. I guess we have to remind them that their AC is constantly leaking small amounts like this into the air and they should never run their airconditioning in their cars. lol.
@@northpoint1039 Not to mention that the eco-terrorists already pitched a fit about R-12 trying to protect an ozone layer that was in "dire peril" at one point then a few years later had "repaired itself" Now we have R-134a and they're still complaining.
@@ModernDIYProjects most environmental wackos probably aren't going to watch a diy video. But they are going to eventually be the death.of us all. Nice video and thanks to the guy for mentioning burping the system.
System won't " take as much as it needs". Most if the AC systems I see are overcharged. If in doubt, purge system, hopefully you can reclaim what's in there . Look up weight spec of amount needed and put that amount into the system. Today's AC systems - especially with variable displacement compressors - need accurate amount of refrigerant to work properly.
Nice video but one important thing which is very important bleed the air out the yellow hose until you see Freon spraying out then you know the hose is air free.
Yes, I know about this and as I mentioned in another comment, I didn't mention that on purpose. I didn't want all the environmental jugheads posting nasty comments about how "You shouldn't do that and People like you are killing the planet". But yes, you should definitely do that. Just make sure there isn't any environazis standing near you when you do it.
I have this set, it's fairly decent...couldn't afford better at the time. Only issue I've had is one of the knobs cracked and wouldn't stay on and you can't get replacement parts. But had an old stereo knob, so it's ok. But it's lasted several years now so no complaints.
I recently bought one of these sets had problems with the I had to wind up taking it back get another one that one has some minor issues with the control valves I had a older set that I gave away I wish I would have kept it because that one working very well
Very informative video especially for those looking into tackling a job with their ac at home! A couple of questions, what would be some causes for your ac to run cold and then not so cold while driving? Also would you recommend a DIY to replace the compressor at home and then take the car to charge the ac system or even use the gauges from Harbor Freight and charge it yourself? I do as much maintenance as I can handle and have the tools for but a professional’s advise is always welcome!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. As for the AC running cold, then warm after a while, it can be a number of things. Most common is low Freon level. At first you get a greater amount of cooling because the system hasn't reached equilibrium then as it balances out the low level becomes more prominent and less efficient. It can also be sludging at the bottom of the Condenser. You can check this by running some water over the condenser fins as the car and the AC is running and see if this helps with cooling. This can be an indicator of a low performing compressor causing this to happen. As far as changing the compressor out yourself, that is a very easy thing to do. If you can manage most automotive repairs then you can easily do this. You can also charge it yourself if you buy the gauges and get some cans of Freon. Easy enough to charge up with these gauges and Freon can be cheap depending on which state you live in. California being the MOST expensive of all of course. Be sure to use a vacuum pump first to clear out the system before recharging. You can rent those from any Auto parts store for free.
Running the AC in the winter is how you keep your windows from fogging up the interior of your car when you're dragging snow in from the walkway...I think modern cars do this automatically. My old Subaru didn't.
Great video keep up the good work. Have you purchased the latest model of this set? Can you do a video on this newer set of you have one? Thanks for the tips and tricks for us DIY’ers
I have not tested the latest version of this. I cant think it has changed much at all aside from colors. It is a very simple set up of just gauges and a couple of shut off valves. That is why I can't justify spending hundreds of dollars for this thing like some other places want to charge. I may do a new video at some point.
I am fixing to remove the seals on the expansion valve on a 2015 GMC my ? is do I have add oil back to the ac compressor when I replace the seals I know I have to use the vacuum pump to test for leaks an evácuate the system thank you keep doing the videos
You don't need to add oil if you are simply replacing seals. The only time you add oil is when you replace a major component (like the compressor) which has oil in it. So you are removing oil with the old compressor and thus you need to put oil back in with the new compressor. If you are only replacing seals then there is no need to add any oil. Keep in mind also that the Freon can has a small amount of oil in it as a lubricant so you are already adding a minute amount of oil when you refill the system.
Thank you for a great film. I have that set fm/the film, but never used it yet, not sure which end of the hose goes to the Manifold, is it the one w/Schrader Valve? And if I just want to check if any freon is left, should I still run the car, or I can just connect the hoses (I think yellow hose should go into the 2nd for it hole on the Manifold, so the system is closed) and see the readings? Thank you again.
Because you need to see the pressure balance on both sides. If you don't see the pressure on both high and low then you don't know if you have a leak, clog, or any other issues. If you only look at the low side you may over fill with gas and cause yourself other problems.
I was told by a master mechanic that the a/c comes on anyways automatically when you are heating in the winter to help defrost and whatnot so it doesn't matter if you turn it on or not
Good video 👍 one thing didn't mention you have to get the air out the line by pressing the air pin in the middle of the gauges until the freon flows out.
I didn't do that to prevent getting a barrage of negative comments from the environmental wackos telling me that I was killing the planet by doing that. You know how this platform is.
It opens and closes that port. That is what lets in the refrigerant when you are charging the system. It is also used to evacuate the system when draining it.
I love your video. You did an excellent job. I’m confused. When you started the Low side was 50 PSI and High Side was 225 PSI When you opened the Low side to let refrigerant flow, the Low Side went to 60 PSI and the High Side went to 260 PSI. The you turned off the low side and the readings stayed the same while you went to check the temp at the dash. While you were doing that, the low side dropped back to 52 PSI while it equalized. Then the garage temp went up to 90 degrees and you said you had to readjust to 55 on the low side. Then you opened the low side back up to allow refrigerant to flow. The low side jumped up to 55 and settled back down to 48 PSI. So over all the PSI was less than it was when you started. Shouldn’t the final reading have been 55 PSI on the low side? What am I missing?
A/C units can be tricky and difficult to understand when watching a video. I tried to keep things short and simple to not make the video too long since people complain when I make longer videos. I wouldn't worry too much about what you see the gauges doing. What you have to understand is that things change as I turn on the flow of Freon from the can to allow more into the system. The system will also change as the compressor kicks on and off. So it is cycling all the time. The levels that I was referring to are ranges that you want to be in, not exact numbers. You use the 55psi range as a guide. Doesn't mean that the vehicle will always reach that specific number. But the A/C charts are broken down into ranges of from X to XX you should have Y to YY, etc. But each system will adjust to whatever it wants to do. As long as you have cold air coming out, you can't worry about the small details.
Simple enough. Follow the lines of your system and if it does have an orifice filter at one point it will change from small to large diameter in the middle of a line. That is where the filter is situated.
The Freon goes in through the Yellow hose on the center port of the gauges. You hook up the Freon can to the Yellow hose, and open that connector when you are ready to introduce the gas into the system. The Low side should have been opened and ready from the start when you hooked up the Blue hose.
So the ac gauge is used to put refrigerant in. When would a vacuume pump need to come in? When you're trying to pull the old or remaining freon that's still in the system? Like, is pulling nessiary if you would want to push new freon but just want a fresh system? If that makes sense.
The vacuum is only used when you have opened the system to the atmosphere like when replacing parts. At that point you have to make sure that you eliminate any and all moisture from the system before recharging. Moisture and Freon DO NOT play well together. So ALL moisture needs to be eliminated before you recharge the system. You cannot open the system up again after you vacuum it down or you wasted your time and need to do it all over again.
You mean can this manifold set be used to charge home AC systems? Yes, I believe it has a reading for R22 which is what most home AC systems use. But to be sure that the current manifolds still have this reading you can check at the store. Open the box and take a closer look.
The can tap is purchased separately. You can get that at Harbor Freight also. It's only around $8, and you switch that from can to can as you use them up.
Yes and No. The gauges will work, but the shut off valves will not. The R12 connectors are different. So you have to find R12 adapters to be able to use this gauge. They used to be very commonly available. You may still be able to find them on Amazon. Get an R134 to R12 conversion kit and that will have the adapters that you can screw on.
I read the PSI since the measurements I have are in PSI, but you can go by either one. It all depends what measuring system you prefer using. Its like using F or C for temp. Both work the same it depends what you are most comfortable with.
I found the one for my vihicle doing a web search. There are plenty of AC forums out there that have this info available. I don't work on GMs so I can't help you with that.
The gauges will read any type of pressure. They probably don't say R12 anymore because that is an obsolete designation. My set is older and does say R12 on it. Mine also say R122, so it will work for all 3, BUT You need to have the proper adapters. R12 and R134A have different connectors.
Thank you. I'm thinking about buying gauges today. My AC is not working and I noticed that clutch is spinning even with AC off. Want to know if I have a leak and also if I must replace compressor I'll have to fill system.
Impossible for me to tell if you have a leak, but I'll tell you how you can find out. Go to your local auto parts and buy some freon with dye in it. They sell kits with the dye, UV glasses & light. Fill your system with a minimal amount of Freon. Run it for a day or two then check for leaks. If no leak then you have no problem and your system is just low on Freon. Fill the system using these gauges until it blows cold and you are done! If your compressor is bad or you have a leak and you have to replace some parts then yes, you have to evacuate the system, pump it down using a vacuum pump, then refill with Freon using the gauges.
@@ModernDIYProjects I just came from Harbor Freight and bought the gauges. Ran diagnostic check and low side is over 120 (Retard) and high side was at 112.5 for my 2015 Hyundai Elantra. No cold air and the clutch will not disengage with AC off. I guess that means no leak. Must mean I have another issue 😀
No cold air and clutch always on generally means low Freon. Just top it off until it gets cold. Should be OK. I'll bet your happy now. This cheap set paid for itself in the first use. The technician charges would have been much more that what this costs.
if the high side controls are all off, how does the high gauge obtain a reading? also how can you tell if you OVER charge the system with too much freon?
The valves being open is just for Freon flow, not for reading pressure. The Valves still get their reading even if the valve is closed. You can tell that your system is over charged when you hook up any type of valve and it shows in the RED area. Even consumer grade valves will have a color coded RED area for over charging. Aside from that it is difficult to tell because a poorly performing system can have either too little or too much Freon in it. The system only works properly within a certain range. Go too high or too low and you get the same symptoms of poor cooling.
@@ModernDIYProjects I think you refer to those valves you said toss it to trash at beginning, no with the manifold you have. How to know when is over charge with two gage like the one you have and the one, I just purchased from same manufacture? Obviously, we need to check and see the red one.
I did show everything from start to finish. Maybe you just fast forwarded past it. Go back and check you'll see when I hook it all up and before I start to put in the Freon.
Thanks. Few questions: How is it that the gauges read 0 when you first hook them up to the car? Even with the valves shut, the manifold should read the pressure of the system, no? When you open the low pressure side valve to feed in the refrigerant, the gauge shoots from 50 to 65 to less than 60 and then up to 60 again. Once it hits that 60 and doesn't take anymore, I think that's considered 'full'. Why go further? Lastly, with these gauges, what's to stop you from taking the R134a couplers off of the hoses and use the gauge set for R12? I believe those hose ends should then connect to R12 fittings? Thanks again.
When you first hook up the gauges, they read 0 pressure because the valve is shut at the connector. There are two valves to open. The one going from the connector to the gauges, and then the one at the manifold to allow flow between the passages. The reason the pressure jumps around as you introduce Freon is because the system has not adjusted to the new Freon being introduced. The pressure from the can is different from the system, then system has to cycle between low and high a couple of times to achieve equilibrium. This is why you need to wait a short time before deciding to introduce more. The hack mechanics that just say "It's full, I'm done" are the ones that leave your system improperly charged and then a few days later it's low. So then they charge you again to test the system and claim "It must have a leak cause it was full when I finished". For me it takes a good hour to do a proper charging that will last a few years with no problems. This is why I learned to do it myself. And my truck is old so I know it will slowly leak out over a few years. As far as changing the connectors and using the R-12 connectors, you are correct. The hoses and manifold are rated to be used with R-134, R-12, R-22, etc. Just the ends and the Freon is all that changes.
@@ModernDIYProjects NVM, I bought this set but needed the adapter that connects to the refrigerant bottle, the link is www.amazon.com/Kozyvacu-R134a-Refrigerant-Self-Piercing-Can-Tap-Valve-with-1-4-Flare-port-for-AUTO-AC-recharging-Easily-connecting-with-Quick-Coupler/dp/B073ZZSYWC/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8
Any can adapter will do. This set does not bring the can piercing connector for the refrigerant can. But the fittings are standard so any adpater will work.
There is no need to do that. The only time you need to evacuate the system is if you have a massive leak, or you open the system to the atmosphere. I have a tiny leak that takes 3 or 4 years to drop a small amount. It probably escapes around the old O rings in the system. So I just top it off every few years and it keeps on going. The pressure inside the system is higher than the outside so it will leak out a small amount but NO outside air will ever be able to enter the system under my current situation.
If you choose to hang up the manifold instead of putting it away in the case, the side ports are hanger basically for the hose ends to connect to. That way the hoses don't hang down as far and are not stressed and break.
Washington State, another bastion of Democracy. Same as Oregon where you can't pump your own gas. California tried to do the Freon thing also a few years back but there was a huge uproar so they backed off.
In this video I show you an easy way to recharge or top off the A/C in your car with a Manifold Gauge Set. In the First part I will review and talk about the Harbor Freight Manifold Gauge Set. The Second part I will show you how to use the Gauge Set. The Third part I will go into a detailed explanation about how to recharge your AC system. I will give you a full walkthrough, so if you have doubts about how to recharge your AC be sure to stay all the way through to the end of the video where I go into greater detail about how to do it right and do it yourself for cheap. You don't have to pay hundreds of dollars to a professional. I will show you how to do it yourself and save money.
I wanted to surprise my husband while he was at work and charge the air conditioner. So I found your video , followed the instructions and it was an easy process. The air conditioner works perfectly. Later I showed him your tutorial and we had to pause the video several times because he was so excited and we got romantic with each other. We’re so happy. Thanks from Mark & Anthony
You're not long winded, I like information. I've been watching several videos like this. I have a couple a/c lines to replace so I'll have to vacuum the system. That seems straight forward but then I'll recharge, that's the part for me that's mystifying. You've done a great job explaining the process, thank you for that!
Glad I could help!
Thank You !!! I had to buy a new adapter for the can as the 8 month old one made the whole can leak out and did not seal at all. Thanks for this video, I forgot how to do it and needed a reminder.
Glad it helped
I know this is a generalized look at topping off your AC. But it would be good to mention that you should "Burp" your freon input of air before adding to the system. You want to get the air out of the input line first.
You have a great speaking voice ;) Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks for the kind words. When I made the video I did think of mentioning the tip you gave, but I decided not to do it because I didn't want to get a barrage of nasty comments from environmental wackos telling me I am killing the planet by doing that. We know it is harmless, but most uninformed jugheads will just dump all over you about that. They don't understand what is taking place, so they just default to nasty comments. But thanks for mentioning it. 👍
@@ModernDIYProjects I understand totally. I guess we have to remind them that their AC is constantly leaking small amounts like this into the air and they should never run their airconditioning in their cars. lol.
@@northpoint1039 Not to mention that the eco-terrorists already pitched a fit about R-12 trying to protect an ozone layer that was in "dire peril" at one point then a few years later had "repaired itself" Now we have R-134a and they're still complaining.
Care to discuss burping?
@@ModernDIYProjects most environmental wackos probably aren't going to watch a diy video. But they are going to eventually be the death.of us all. Nice video and thanks to the guy for mentioning burping the system.
Very nice video. You are correct many things going on! Lots of things to know!
THANK YOU, FOR THIS VERY HELPFUL, USEFUL, INFORMATION, AND DEMONSTRATION!!
System won't " take as much as it needs". Most if the AC systems I see are overcharged. If in doubt, purge system, hopefully you can reclaim what's in there . Look up weight spec of amount needed and put that amount into the system. Today's AC systems - especially with variable displacement compressors - need accurate amount of refrigerant to work properly.
a good video... complete and well-said and no jerky video or nonsense comments. 'DEVICE' is not 'DEVIDE' in his comments.
Nice video but one important thing which is very important bleed the air out the yellow hose until you see Freon spraying out then you know the hose is air free.
Yes, I know about this and as I mentioned in another comment, I didn't mention that on purpose. I didn't want all the environmental jugheads posting nasty comments about how "You shouldn't do that and People like you are killing the planet". But yes, you should definitely do that. Just make sure there isn't any environazis standing near you when you do it.
@@ModernDIYProjects 👍👍
Thanks. Helpful. Appreciate the limited scope of your video. Exactly what I needed.
Your Pittsburgh A/C Manifold Gauge Set video for the product was excellent. You provided an excellent starting point. I'm a DIYer. :)
Awesome, thank you!
Awesome job man and very helpful.
I have this set, it's fairly decent...couldn't afford better at the time. Only issue I've had is one of the knobs cracked and wouldn't stay on and you can't get replacement parts. But had an old stereo knob, so it's ok.
But it's lasted several years now so no complaints.
If the other knob breaks you can use epoxy to fix it back in place. Epoxy resin is great at fixing plastic stuff like that.
@@ModernDIYProjects Good idea.
Thank you so much for your time in showing me how. Your very good at this and very informative. I appreciate you and again thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey man GREAT job on the video, I learned a lot
I recently bought one of these sets had problems with the I had to wind up taking it back get another one that one has some minor issues with the control valves I had a older set that I gave away I wish I would have kept it because that one working very well
Well done thank you for your info
Someone told me that if you use a tool often enough to have to replace it twice. Buy the best for the 3rd time.
That is the cleanest Dodge engine bay I've seen
Very informative video especially for those looking into tackling a job with their ac at home! A couple of questions, what would be some causes for your ac to run cold and then not so cold while driving? Also would you recommend a DIY to replace the compressor at home and then take the car to charge the ac system or even use the gauges from Harbor Freight and charge it yourself? I do as much maintenance as I can handle and have the tools for but a professional’s advise is always welcome!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. As for the AC running cold, then warm after a while, it can be a number of things. Most common is low Freon level. At first you get a greater amount of cooling because the system hasn't reached equilibrium then as it balances out the low level becomes more prominent and less efficient. It can also be sludging at the bottom of the Condenser. You can check this by running some water over the condenser fins as the car and the AC is running and see if this helps with cooling. This can be an indicator of a low performing compressor causing this to happen. As far as changing the compressor out yourself, that is a very easy thing to do. If you can manage most automotive repairs then you can easily do this. You can also charge it yourself if you buy the gauges and get some cans of Freon. Easy enough to charge up with these gauges and Freon can be cheap depending on which state you live in. California being the MOST expensive of all of course. Be sure to use a vacuum pump first to clear out the system before recharging. You can rent those from any Auto parts store for free.
Great video very helpful thank you
Running the AC in the winter is how you keep your windows from fogging up the interior of your car when you're dragging snow in from the walkway...I think modern cars do this automatically. My old Subaru didn't.
😂 That's exactly what I thought you talk too much lol but it was very helpful so thank you.
Can you do one we're you flush/evacuate the ac system in order to replace a ac comoressor
Great video keep up the good work. Have you purchased the latest model of this set? Can you do a video on this newer set of you have one? Thanks for the tips and tricks for us DIY’ers
I have not tested the latest version of this. I cant think it has changed much at all aside from colors. It is a very simple set up of just gauges and a couple of shut off valves. That is why I can't justify spending hundreds of dollars for this thing like some other places want to charge. I may do a new video at some point.
I am fixing to remove the seals on the expansion valve on a 2015 GMC my ? is do I have add oil back to the ac compressor when I replace the seals I know I have to use the vacuum pump to test for leaks an evácuate the system thank you keep doing the videos
You don't need to add oil if you are simply replacing seals. The only time you add oil is when you replace a major component (like the compressor) which has oil in it. So you are removing oil with the old compressor and thus you need to put oil back in with the new compressor. If you are only replacing seals then there is no need to add any oil. Keep in mind also that the Freon can has a small amount of oil in it as a lubricant so you are already adding a minute amount of oil when you refill the system.
Thank you very much
Thank you for a great film. I have that set fm/the film, but never used it yet, not sure which end of the hose goes to the Manifold, is it the one w/Schrader Valve? And if I just want to check if any freon is left, should I still run the car, or I can just connect the hoses (I think yellow hose should go into the 2nd for it hole on the Manifold, so the system is closed) and see the readings? Thank you again.
If you don't need the hi side why connect it
Because you need to see the pressure balance on both sides. If you don't see the pressure on both high and low then you don't know if you have a leak, clog, or any other issues. If you only look at the low side you may over fill with gas and cause yourself other problems.
Excellent.😂😂😂 Thank you,!!
I was told by a master mechanic that the a/c comes on anyways automatically when you are heating in the winter to help defrost and whatnot so it doesn't matter if you turn it on or not
Good video 👍 one thing didn't mention you have to get the air out the line by pressing the air pin in the middle of the gauges until the freon flows out.
I didn't do that to prevent getting a barrage of negative comments from the environmental wackos telling me that I was killing the planet by doing that. You know how this platform is.
Yep 👍 Your video refreshes my knowledge thanks. 😊
The knob on the center manifold attached to yellow. Does that open or close?
It opens and closes that port. That is what lets in the refrigerant when you are charging the system. It is also used to evacuate the system when draining it.
I love your video. You did an excellent job.
I’m confused.
When you started the Low side was 50 PSI and High Side was 225 PSI
When you opened the Low side to let refrigerant flow, the Low Side went to 60 PSI and the High Side went to 260 PSI.
The you turned off the low side and the readings stayed the same while you went to check the temp at the dash.
While you were doing that, the low side dropped back to 52 PSI while it equalized.
Then the garage temp went up to 90 degrees and you said you had to readjust to 55 on the low side.
Then you opened the low side back up to allow refrigerant to flow.
The low side jumped up to 55 and settled back down to 48 PSI.
So over all the PSI was less than it was when you started.
Shouldn’t the final reading have been 55 PSI on the low side?
What am I missing?
A/C units can be tricky and difficult to understand when watching a video. I tried to keep things short and simple to not make the video too long since people complain when I make longer videos. I wouldn't worry too much about what you see the gauges doing. What you have to understand is that things change as I turn on the flow of Freon from the can to allow more into the system. The system will also change as the compressor kicks on and off. So it is cycling all the time. The levels that I was referring to are ranges that you want to be in, not exact numbers. You use the 55psi range as a guide. Doesn't mean that the vehicle will always reach that specific number. But the A/C charts are broken down into ranges of from X to XX you should have Y to YY, etc. But each system will adjust to whatever it wants to do. As long as you have cold air coming out, you can't worry about the small details.
Greatly done!
How do I know if my system uses orifice filter?
Simple enough. Follow the lines of your system and if it does have an orifice filter at one point it will change from small to large diameter in the middle of a line. That is where the filter is situated.
Never saw where you opened the low side switch on the connector. How did the Freon go into the system?
The Freon goes in through the Yellow hose on the center port of the gauges. You hook up the Freon can to the Yellow hose, and open that connector when you are ready to introduce the gas into the system. The Low side should have been opened and ready from the start when you hooked up the Blue hose.
So the ac gauge is used to put refrigerant in. When would a vacuume pump need to come in? When you're trying to pull the old or remaining freon that's still in the system? Like, is pulling nessiary if you would want to push new freon but just want a fresh system? If that makes sense.
The vacuum is only used when you have opened the system to the atmosphere like when replacing parts. At that point you have to make sure that you eliminate any and all moisture from the system before recharging. Moisture and Freon DO NOT play well together. So ALL moisture needs to be eliminated before you recharge the system. You cannot open the system up again after you vacuum it down or you wasted your time and need to do it all over again.
@ModernDIYProjects Thank you very much, and for the video too 🙏
i just bought a set of these gauges from hf. why doesnt the gauges come with the valve that goes on the can??? theres no way to connect it
True. HF has never included that tap and they don't sell it separately as far as I know. You can probably find it on Amazon for just a few bucks.
Can you spray also used to charge a home air conditioner unit
You mean can this manifold set be used to charge home AC systems? Yes, I believe it has a reading for R22 which is what most home AC systems use. But to be sure that the current manifolds still have this reading you can check at the store. Open the box and take a closer look.
The little knob on the can... does that comebwith the harbor freight kit?
The can tap is purchased separately. You can get that at Harbor Freight also. It's only around $8, and you switch that from can to can as you use them up.
@@ModernDIYProjects gotcha! thanks for the update.
I have an old R-12 system that i want to recharge. can I use these gauges and the same procedure to recharge my R-12 AC ?
Yes and No. The gauges will work, but the shut off valves will not. The R12 connectors are different. So you have to find R12 adapters to be able to use this gauge. They used to be very commonly available. You may still be able to find them on Amazon. Get an R134 to R12 conversion kit and that will have the adapters that you can screw on.
Good information but too long winded!
Good one ..TU..Do you read the inside R134a line or outside PSI?
I read the PSI since the measurements I have are in PSI, but you can go by either one. It all depends what measuring system you prefer using. Its like using F or C for temp. Both work the same it depends what you are most comfortable with.
Do you know where can I find a chart for the high and low pressure requirements for my 07 gmc Yukon 5.3
I found the one for my vihicle doing a web search. There are plenty of AC forums out there that have this info available. I don't work on GMs so I can't help you with that.
Where do I find the proper pressure settings for low and high for my vehicle?
Follow the air conditioning lines and you will find them. Every vehicle has them in a different location, but they are always on the A/C lines.
@@ModernDIYProjects I just checked and Nothing. Not even on the sticker where it gives you A/C information.
I bought one of these sets, it only says r134a. I need one for r12. Will this work?
The gauges will read any type of pressure. They probably don't say R12 anymore because that is an obsolete designation. My set is older and does say R12 on it. Mine also say R122, so it will work for all 3, BUT You need to have the proper adapters. R12 and R134A have different connectors.
Thank you. I'm thinking about buying gauges today. My AC is not working and I noticed that clutch is spinning even with AC off. Want to know if I have a leak and also if I must replace compressor I'll have to fill system.
Impossible for me to tell if you have a leak, but I'll tell you how you can find out. Go to your local auto parts and buy some freon with dye in it. They sell kits with the dye, UV glasses & light. Fill your system with a minimal amount of Freon. Run it for a day or two then check for leaks. If no leak then you have no problem and your system is just low on Freon. Fill the system using these gauges until it blows cold and you are done! If your compressor is bad or you have a leak and you have to replace some parts then yes, you have to evacuate the system, pump it down using a vacuum pump, then refill with Freon using the gauges.
@@ModernDIYProjects I just came from Harbor Freight and bought the gauges. Ran diagnostic check and low side is over 120 (Retard) and high side was at 112.5 for my 2015 Hyundai Elantra. No cold air and the clutch will not disengage with AC off. I guess that means no leak. Must mean I have another issue 😀
No cold air and clutch always on generally means low Freon. Just top it off until it gets cold. Should be OK. I'll bet your happy now. This cheap set paid for itself in the first use. The technician charges would have been much more that what this costs.
@@ModernDIYProjects That would be great! I just think it’s strange that the clutch still spins even after turning AC off. 😃
Disconnected switch and power to compressor and clutch is still engaged.
if the high side controls are all off, how does the high gauge obtain a reading? also how can you tell if you OVER charge the system with too much freon?
The valves being open is just for Freon flow, not for reading pressure. The Valves still get their reading even if the valve is closed. You can tell that your system is over charged when you hook up any type of valve and it shows in the RED area. Even consumer grade valves will have a color coded RED area for over charging. Aside from that it is difficult to tell because a poorly performing system can have either too little or too much Freon in it. The system only works properly within a certain range. Go too high or too low and you get the same symptoms of poor cooling.
@@ModernDIYProjects I think you refer to those valves you said toss it to trash at beginning, no with the manifold you have. How to know when is over charge with two gage like the one you have and the one, I just purchased from same manufacture? Obviously, we need to check and see the red one.
What is the problem when you hook up the low it goes off the chart gauges
You have a blockage somewhere.
will this work with r12?
The gauges and hoses will work but not the connectors. You will need to get different connector for R12.
Shouldn't you have shown the readings before adding the freon? Not criticism I'm trying to get into this.
I did show everything from start to finish. Maybe you just fast forwarded past it. Go back and check you'll see when I hook it all up and before I start to put in the Freon.
Thanks. Few questions: How is it that the gauges read 0 when you first hook them up to the car? Even with the valves shut, the manifold should read the pressure of the system, no? When you open the low pressure side valve to feed in the refrigerant, the gauge shoots from 50 to 65 to less than 60 and then up to 60 again. Once it hits that 60 and doesn't take anymore, I think that's considered 'full'. Why go further? Lastly, with these gauges, what's to stop you from taking the R134a couplers off of the hoses and use the gauge set for R12? I believe those hose ends should then connect to R12 fittings? Thanks again.
When you first hook up the gauges, they read 0 pressure because the valve is shut at the connector. There are two valves to open. The one going from the connector to the gauges, and then the one at the manifold to allow flow between the passages. The reason the pressure jumps around as you introduce Freon is because the system has not adjusted to the new Freon being introduced. The pressure from the can is different from the system, then system has to cycle between low and high a couple of times to achieve equilibrium. This is why you need to wait a short time before deciding to introduce more. The hack mechanics that just say "It's full, I'm done" are the ones that leave your system improperly charged and then a few days later it's low. So then they charge you again to test the system and claim "It must have a leak cause it was full when I finished". For me it takes a good hour to do a proper charging that will last a few years with no problems. This is why I learned to do it myself. And my truck is old so I know it will slowly leak out over a few years. As far as changing the connectors and using the R-12 connectors, you are correct. The hoses and manifold are rated to be used with R-134, R-12, R-22, etc. Just the ends and the Freon is all that changes.
@@ModernDIYProjects Thank you for clarifying!
can adapter link?
I don't understand the question.
@@ModernDIYProjects NVM, I bought this set but needed the adapter that connects to the refrigerant bottle, the link is www.amazon.com/Kozyvacu-R134a-Refrigerant-Self-Piercing-Can-Tap-Valve-with-1-4-Flare-port-for-AUTO-AC-recharging-Easily-connecting-with-Quick-Coupler/dp/B073ZZSYWC/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8
Any can adapter will do. This set does not bring the can piercing connector for the refrigerant can. But the fittings are standard so any adpater will work.
You didn't say open the low side on the pipe connection
Why didn’t you evacuate the system before filling?
There is no need to do that. The only time you need to evacuate the system is if you have a massive leak, or you open the system to the atmosphere. I have a tiny leak that takes 3 or 4 years to drop a small amount. It probably escapes around the old O rings in the system. So I just top it off every few years and it keeps on going. The pressure inside the system is higher than the outside so it will leak out a small amount but NO outside air will ever be able to enter the system under my current situation.
@@ModernDIYProjects when do you suggest vacuuming your a/c system?
@@nickdaniel2606 Only when you have a leak and you fixed your leak. Otherwise you never have to do that.
What is the use of two sides ports it's for purge process or just handling the hoses... thank you
If you choose to hang up the manifold instead of putting it away in the case, the side ports are hanger basically for the hose ends to connect to. That way the hoses don't hang down as far and are not stressed and break.
@@ModernDIYProjects thanks so much
@@ModernDIYProjects then they don't have any pass to purge the refrigerant when charging or measuring?
If you look inside the side ports, you will see they are dead ends. Only the bottom ports are functional.
@@ModernDIYProjects thanks for the information I'll see it cause we now use the original one which just have the the valve hsnds on the sides
I’m comment 100
Its illegal to buy or sell Freon in Washington State!!
Washington State, another bastion of Democracy. Same as Oregon where you can't pump your own gas. California tried to do the Freon thing also a few years back but there was a huge uproar so they backed off.
INFORMATIVE. ONCE THRU RECHARGING, WHATS THE PROCEDURE FOR DISCONNECTING UR GAUGE SET. ALSO WHAT ABOUT PURGING. BEST, GE.