While He was making the knife handle I was able to figure out He is a teacher, excellent video explaining how to make a knife handle, this is the best!. By the way I was impressed by the anvil, that is a treasure!!!
thanks for the video, using washer as spacer is a great idea. would be great to cut the brass tub a few millimeters shorter than the handle width so the mushrooming pin sets in below the surface of the handle... then we can sand and file over the pins and still have them hold the handle together.
Stanley, What nice words. Thanks. Actually you can. The mushrooming of the peen head stands proud but the intense pressure causes the pin just below the peen (mushroom) to spread a little also and more than enough to hold the scales tight even after we sand flat and smooth. Best, Paul
This was very well organized. I've been stressing on the technique because the centrifugal switch on the Walker-Turner table saw I'm restoring on my channel has a broken torsion spring. Finally last night I realized the only way to replace the spring is to take off the long rivet that secures it, but I've never done anything like this before. I at least feel confident enough that by following this video and a little practice, I could get the job done. In fact, I went to Ace this morning (before seeing this video 🤔) and ended up buying both the copper nails and the brass stock you have because both are a perfect diameter for the original rivet. Plus another restorer also suggested a similar process. Thanks again 💯!
Shane, Thanks so much. It does my heart good to pass-on to you something from my friend Gus. He would be pleased with your words and would find your enthusiasm enjoyable. Best, Paul
This works perfectly. Ace Hardware will order the tube for you at no charge. It is K&S Precision Metals part #8128, 5/32x.014 brass tube ($1.79). The nails also from Ace are Anchor brand #11 copper slating nails ($14.59). I used copper because I just didn’t research where to get brass rods. Copper works great. Good luck.
Isaac, I'm not an experienced computer-type. My kids say I got off the technology train in 1987 and never got back on! I am happy you liked my stuff. You are the kind of guy I did this for .Best, Paul
Thank you Mr. White. I have used copper tubing with copper pins for handles. Seems to work well. I like to use a larger drill bit by hand to countersink the pin holes sometimes. Have used the file like you demonstrated also. Putting a nail in the tubing keeps it open when cutting or pressing on it. Thank you again, Mr. White. Yours in Prayer, Rick Trumbo
Norwood, Thanks for your words. Sorry it has taken so long to get back. This book thing and computer component is new for me. Check-out the hardback version by the same name at Artisan Ideas. Best in your work, Paul
Erin, I'm sure after eight months you secured the rods. Sorry it has taken so long to get back, Lots of folks are commenting. If you have any questions please e-mail me at my sight. windsorforge@gmail.com . Thanks, Paul
Thank you. I've wondered exactly how this is done and asked at a few knife repair kiosks for the repair on an old bone handled bowie I broke, but no positive responses. Tube and nail going on shopping list . I'll drill to size to fit materials available.
Gr8, Thanks to you. I've repaired/restored several Bowies myself and the tube trick works on in-tack and cracked ancient handles equally. Keep-up your work. May the FORGE be with you. Paul
Would you recommend taping the scales before drilling to keep the blowout from happening on the other side I noticed you have blowouts on the outside of the scale from the drill bit going through
Excellent tutorial I just made my first two Forge knives oh, I wish you had more content thank you for sharing be nice to hear from you God bless and happy 2021
Thank you! Sorry it took so long to get back to you. This book thing has been hard to keep up with. My new hardback version has lots more detail for you. Any questions please E-mail me. Best, Paul
Thank you for an excellent presentation, your knives are beautiful and that's a clever technique. Having said that this cannot be the way that knives were peened historically. I also doubt that the old cutlers just kept splitting scales until they got lucky. I've noticed that old bowies seem to often have lots of small pins, are small pins less likely to maybe split the scales? Did iron pins perhaps deform more easily than mild steel or brass pins? Was there a way of annealing the ends of the peens to make them less prone to bending? Very interested to know your thoughts, thanks for the video.
Calvin, Great observations. "Old cutlers"? The oldest I knew were born around the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries and taught me. They, in turn, were trained by smiths from the 1800's. I haven't researched the techniques beyond that but I assume TRP has been around as long as there have been copper tubes??? I'm with you and assume the old-timers split lots of scales. I say in my book that after some experience peening with tubes, peening without them gets progressively easier. Yes, small pins are easier than fat and iron is more difficult than brass or copper. Thanks for your words, sorry it has taken so long to get back to you. This book and computer business is new to me. Best, Paul
So does the internal pin push out the tubing through the whole pin or are you relying on the rolling over to hold the scale on. I ask because I want the pins to be flush and that would take sanding. I would get the scales made to where I want them before smoothing. I would sand the pins down to the scale height. I just don’t want to do this method of the pins won’t hold after sanding flush with the scales
Hey Mr. White. I have ordered your book and am anxious to study it. I have been forging with mineral coal and a hole in the ground since my metal forge pan gave up the ghost after years of repairs. I am 68 years old and I like the old ways also. Are you still forging? I pray so. Thank you for your videos and thank you in advance for your book. Yours in Prayer, Rick Trumbo, Kentucky.
I'm trying to make knifes with just a grinder at the moment once I get my shed i can start building up my tools, cheers for info, was stuck with my handle.👍🏴
To get an old and realistic-looking look on the pain I use the ball of the hammer sometimes instead of the flat part you can control the amount of rollover you have and make a really nice antique-looking pen the smaller the hammer the better and you go back and forth it makes the knife look really old and a very unique looking look it's not flat more of a mushroom look leave the hammer marks don't sand them off
Great video. I'm about to try this for the first time and your video is going tomake it so much easier. Quick question though. The copper pin obviously expands as it is peened and thus fits tight in the tube. Will the tube expand also, with the pressure? Probably a daft question but I'm wondered what keeps the tube tight in the handle itself. Thanks
707, I would think they work about the same. I have some of my grand-mothers kitchen butcher knives with two-part rivets and they work just fine. I like solid rivets because of the visual esthetics and the-pleasure-of-the-peen! Paul
*You make great knives! Forging a knife is my dream. I have never tried it before, but I would love to!) I recently posted a video and would like your opinion on it and the method of attachment of the knife handle.*
@@paulwhite9106 Hi! This is where I make my knife handle. ua-cam.com/video/Vi3KUuVYMIs/v-deo.html And here I impregnate it with Danish oil. ua-cam.com/video/kfDSCvnUgXo/v-deo.html
Daniel, Sorry it took so long to get back to you. electronics are not my strong suit!!! My book tells the story of the war anvil being secured from its keeper after many generations and blacksmiths. If you can't afford my book please e-mail me and I'll send the story. Best, Paul
Ram, I use contact cement to hold it all together but you can use epoxy, However, it's the tube and rods that make the bond last for generations, note the handle chapter in my book. Keep-up the good work. Paul
Survival, Sorry about making you wait so long. I'm just getting into this book-computer stuff. Old Blacksmith! Hope your forging is bringing you big dividends in many ways. Best, Paul
I'm so lucky to have found your video. I learned from you what you've learned from Guss. I appreciate your loyalty to Guss
Your rivet-tube jacket idea is ingenious. Thanks for sharing.
Finally a very detailed methodology for pinning scales to fixed blade knives. Great work!
BDJ, Sorry it took so long to get back. This book thing is beyond my capacity at times. Check-out the new hardback version. My best to you, Paul
VERY GOOD! Went into detail and showed all the deferent things you could use other channels spend to much time with random stuff you dont need.
While He was making the knife handle I was able to figure out He is a teacher, excellent video explaining how to make a knife handle, this is the best!. By the way I was impressed by the anvil, that is a treasure!!!
Thanks. Love your teaching style. After watching this I am confidant enough to try changing the handle on my favourite knife.
The best video for pining a knife handle.!!!
Xapnc, I agree! Sorry about the delay in response. This is all new to this old blacksmith. The best in your pinning and forging. Paul
thanks for the video, using washer as spacer is a great idea.
would be great to cut the brass tub a few millimeters shorter than the handle width so the mushrooming pin sets in below the surface of the handle... then we can sand and file over the pins and still have them hold the handle together.
Stanley, What nice words. Thanks. Actually you can. The mushrooming of the peen head stands proud but the intense pressure causes the pin just below the peen (mushroom) to spread a little also and more than enough to hold the scales tight even after we sand flat and smooth. Best, Paul
This was very well organized. I've been stressing on the technique because the centrifugal switch on the Walker-Turner table saw I'm restoring on my channel has a broken torsion spring. Finally last night I realized the only way to replace the spring is to take off the long rivet that secures it, but I've never done anything like this before. I at least feel confident enough that by following this video and a little practice, I could get the job done. In fact, I went to Ace this morning (before seeing this video 🤔) and ended up buying both the copper nails and the brass stock you have because both are a perfect diameter for the original rivet. Plus another restorer also suggested a similar process. Thanks again 💯!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for the video!
Good! I'm happy you found it. Rarely in life do we find what we seek. Paul
Thank you really great watching A man at his Craft😊
Thank you, Gus!
Loved the end! Thank you gus!
worxharder, Thank you! I like the end also. Thank you Gus! My best to you, keep-on forging. Paul
I hope you're still well and forging Paul. Thank you for sharing your knowledge as I am a young Canadian man taking up the art.
Young Canadian Man, Welcome to the business. Keep on forging! Paul
Excellent, Paul.... I will try this on my Perfect Handle screwdriver restorations 👍🏻🛠️
Armando, Thanks, best on your restorations. Paul
Peace, Paul
Thank you for sharing your method. I use it on all of my handles now. Very easy and fun👍
Shane, Thanks so much. It does my heart good to pass-on to you something from my friend Gus. He would be pleased with your words and would find your enthusiasm enjoyable. Best, Paul
This is a fantastic video. Thank you for making this.
Jack, Thanks for your kind words. Paul
Thanks for sharing, working on a project now and will be using a brass rivet to hold a wrench handle in place.
Good, Keep up the work. Paul
Thank you Paul!! Quite a smart idea and you explained it perfectly.
Mark, thanks! Make it your own. Paul
fantastic video. thank you for sharing your wisdom
Sam, Thanks so much. Best, Paul
Excellent. !! I'm going to try this technique for my M5 bayonet to fighting knife conversion
Thank you Paul & Gus!!!
This works perfectly. Ace Hardware will order the tube for you at no charge. It is K&S Precision Metals part #8128, 5/32x.014 brass tube ($1.79). The nails also from Ace are Anchor brand #11 copper slating nails ($14.59). I used copper because I just didn’t research where to get brass rods. Copper works great. Good luck.
High4, Thanks for your detail. Keep on smithing. Paul
Best video by far on the internet. I really appreciate your teaching. I have subscribed to your channel.
Isaac, I'm not an experienced computer-type. My kids say I got off the technology train in 1987 and never got back on! I am happy you liked my stuff. You are the kind of guy I did this for .Best, Paul
Thank you for sharing your skill and knowledge i apreciate it .
David V
Superb approach...thank you for sharing. Going to try with variable thickness teak scales I made for a kitchen knife🙏
That tube jacket trick is pretty amazin!
I am glad you like it. It is such a simple solution as is so much from the ancient ones. Keep up the work! Paul
Thank you Mr. White. I have used copper tubing with copper pins for handles. Seems to work well. I like to use a larger drill bit by hand to countersink the pin holes sometimes. Have used the file like you demonstrated also. Putting a nail in the tubing keeps it open when cutting or pressing on it. Thank you again, Mr. White. Yours in Prayer, Rick Trumbo
Rick, Thanks for your words and the nail tip. Is everyone listening?
Paul
Love it. Definitely getting a book
Norwood, Thanks for your words. Sorry it has taken so long to get back. This book thing and computer component is new for me. Check-out the hardback version by the same name at Artisan Ideas.
Best in your work, Paul
Very interesting video and stories! Thank you good sir.
NME, I like the stories the best and they are mostly true! Paul
Thank you . Respect. From Roumania.👍👃
Thank you for the knowledge. I’ve been using the rods and would crack the scales. Out to pick up some tubes
Erin, I'm sure after eight months you secured the rods. Sorry it has taken so long to get back, Lots of folks are commenting. If you have any questions please e-mail me at my sight. windsorforge@gmail.com . Thanks, Paul
Thank you. I've wondered exactly how this is done and asked at a few knife repair kiosks for the repair on an old bone handled bowie I broke, but no positive responses. Tube and nail going on shopping list . I'll drill to size to fit materials available.
Gr8, Thanks to you. I've repaired/restored several Bowies myself and the tube trick works on in-tack and cracked ancient handles equally. Keep-up your work. May the FORGE be with you. Paul
Would you recommend taping the scales before drilling to keep the blowout from happening on the other side I noticed you have blowouts on the outside of the scale from the drill bit going through
Excellent tutorial I just made my first two Forge knives oh, I wish you had more content thank you for sharing be nice to hear from you God bless and happy 2021
Thank you! Sorry it took so long to get back to you. This book thing has been hard to keep up with. My new hardback version has lots more detail for you. Any questions please E-mail me. Best, Paul
this is great, hope to try this soon
Excellent. Thanks.
You are very welcome! Paul
Thank you for an excellent presentation, your knives are beautiful and that's a clever technique. Having said that this cannot be the way that knives were peened historically. I also doubt that the old cutlers just kept splitting scales until they got lucky. I've noticed that old bowies seem to often have lots of small pins, are small pins less likely to maybe split the scales? Did iron pins perhaps deform more easily than mild steel or brass pins? Was there a way of annealing the ends of the peens to make them less prone to bending? Very interested to know your thoughts, thanks for the video.
Calvin, Great observations. "Old cutlers"? The oldest I knew were born around the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries and taught me. They, in turn, were trained by smiths from the 1800's. I haven't researched the techniques beyond that but I assume TRP has been around as long as there have been copper tubes??? I'm with you and assume the old-timers split lots of scales. I say in my book that after some experience peening with tubes, peening without them gets progressively easier.
Yes, small pins are easier than fat and iron is more difficult than brass or copper.
Thanks for your words, sorry it has taken so long to get back to you. This book and computer business is new to me.
Best, Paul
So does the internal pin push out the tubing through the whole pin or are you relying on the rolling over to hold the scale on. I ask because I want the pins to be flush and that would take sanding. I would get the scales made to where I want them before smoothing. I would sand the pins down to the scale height. I just don’t want to do this method of the pins won’t hold after sanding flush with the scales
Hey Mr. White. I have ordered your book and am anxious to study it. I have been forging with mineral coal and a hole in the ground since my metal forge pan gave up the ghost after years of repairs. I am 68 years old and I like the old ways also. Are you still forging? I pray so. Thank you for your videos and thank you in advance for your book. Yours in Prayer, Rick Trumbo, Kentucky.
Thanks Rick. Any questions let me know. PRW
I'm trying to make knifes with just a grinder at the moment once I get my shed i can start building up my tools, cheers for info, was stuck with my handle.👍🏴
Mr. Blacksmith MMA-Boxing, Hope you are smithing. sorry it has taken a year to get back. Busy stuff this authoring. Cheers to you, Paul
What size hole needs to be drilled
Is that a Chas Parker vice?
To get an old and realistic-looking look on the pain I use the ball of the hammer sometimes instead of the flat part you can control the amount of rollover you have and make a really nice antique-looking pen the smaller the hammer the better and you go back and forth it makes the knife look really old and a very unique looking look it's not flat more of a mushroom look leave the hammer marks don't sand them off
What kind of wood did you use for the scales?
Great video. I'm about to try this for the first time and your video is going tomake it so much easier. Quick question though. The copper pin obviously expands as it is peened and thus fits tight in the tube. Will the tube expand also, with the pressure? Probably a daft question but I'm wondered what keeps the tube tight in the handle itself. Thanks
Great video but i dont think they used tubes to pin knives in ive never seen it on any old knife its a new method
Cheers Paul - I'm gonna use this technique AND marine grade epoxy - I'm sure the handle is gonna outlive me - whatever about the blade.
Josef, I am sure it will. Remember the mechanical bond will be even stronger than the magic aqua-epoxy. My best to you in your work. Peace, Paul
What is that book you have called and where do I get one, I just started smithing and I would LOVE to get my hands on something like that!
Go on line an type in FORGED PAUL WHITE. Thanks PRW
Do Male-Female Rivits work better than a solid rod?
707, I would think they work about the same. I have some of my grand-mothers kitchen butcher knives with two-part rivets and they work just fine. I like solid rivets because of the visual esthetics and the-pleasure-of-the-peen! Paul
Can't find the E-book on Amazon. Is there another online source? Also, where would I find a tube for a 1/4" pin?
Thanks for this!
My pleasure! I have always found blacksmiths to be a sharing bunch and hope you pass-on the skill to others. Paul
*You make great knives! Forging a knife is my dream. I have never tried it before, but I would love to!) I recently posted a video and would like your opinion on it and the method of attachment of the knife handle.*
Diy-gen, Please, forge one or two. I would love to see your vid but not sure how to access it. Send it to me over the airwaves and I'll get back. Paul
@@paulwhite9106 Hi! This is where I make my knife handle. ua-cam.com/video/Vi3KUuVYMIs/v-deo.html
And here I impregnate it with Danish oil. ua-cam.com/video/kfDSCvnUgXo/v-deo.html
How did you find the anvil?
Also really helpful video thank you.
Daniel, Sorry it took so long to get back to you. electronics are not my strong suit!!! My book tells the story of the war anvil being secured from its keeper after many generations and blacksmiths. If you can't afford my book please e-mail me and I'll send the story. Best, Paul
that´s exactly how i want to do it :) thanks for the vids
No problem! Do it and keep on forging! Paul
amazing
thank u gus!
Hi Paul, do you use any kind of glue (epoxy) on the tube and or pins?
Ram, I use contact cement to hold it all together but you can use epoxy, However, it's the tube and rods that make the bond last for generations, note the handle chapter in my book. Keep-up the good work. Paul
I don
Gerardo, You don't have what? Paul
number 3. damn number 3 all day long.
Dan, What? Best, Paul
Wow i got one like that Bice
Great.
SurvivalAustria
Survival, Sorry about making you wait so long. I'm just getting into this book-computer stuff. Old Blacksmith! Hope your forging is bringing you big dividends in many ways. Best, Paul