I have been working on cars for a while now, and you included everything I needed to know. Even though with transmissions, there is no substitution for having the FSM and being able to read it, your video sped the process up. THANK YOU
Great video on a thorough cvt transfusion. I can suggest, when the fluid is done draining. Drop the transmission pan, thoroughly clean the magnet that is located in the dimple on the pan, and clean the pan itself. Replace the filter screen, reseal,and re assemble. Then do your transfusion. That is the only suggestion I have, great video. And Amsoil is always a safe bet in my books, I've run it for years and always will.
When flushing a transmission, like in this video, I usually drop the pan and filter after the flush. That way, no contamination on the filter ( screen) and the pan remains clean. Not meaning to criticize, just sharing the way I did my flushes.
The cvt fluid get pulverized and whipped millions of times within the first 50,000 miles. The oils molecular structure; mainly hydrocarbons, break down over time. Which is why it turns black because the black color is the loose carbon that broke away from the initial hydrocarbon molecule. When the carbon atoms break away from the molecule, at some point the molecule is too small to create the lubricating effect between the metal moving parts and rubbing parts inside the cvt. So, to make that more understandable: The reason why oils lubricate is because their molecules are small enough to slip between very very close spaces, but large enough and strong enough to prevent these spaces from rubbing hard enough to create severe wear and tear. When these molecules break down and get smaller, they now slip in between the spaces but do not prevent the pieces from gliding against eachother like when they were larger. So you MUST change the oil at the beginning of breakdown to insure there is proper lubrication. It really is a fascinating topic. The oils breakdown starts virtually immediately the second you go forward, and it only becomes necessary to change when the amount of smaller molecules defeats the lubricating ability of surviving, fully formed hydrocarbon molecules. In a cvt, this is roughly 25,000 miles. You dont necessarily need to flush the cvt in order to replace all the loose carbon with new hydrocarbon molecules (oil) after you change the fluid out, but you should because of gunk build up, microscopic metal fragments that will wear the cvt more and more, especially if it is the first fluid change because a new cvt breaks in 5x more than it will between 50,000-200,000 miles.
I am glad there are people on UA-cam like you that make these types of videos. Very enjoyeable content. I think I'll still pay the cash to Subaru to do that process for me though.
Brian Walsingham honestly they won’t do all this it’s not necessary if u change ur fluid every 60k they basically just do a drain and fill of about 7 quarts.
I have a 2011 impreza automatic and on my year and other year models they came with 2 types of transmissions, one model transmission has a serviceable screw on filter and mine does not have any filter whatsoever besides a screen for large debris, so I've been changing my transmission fluid every 25,000 for assurance since it was new, at these change intervals I will guarantee I will get well over 200k, I have 135k now and showing no signs of wear and it drives just like new, well worth a 1 hour job once a year, I'm also a freak on engine oil change too, 3k on the oil and its changed out no exception no matter what the oil says and I can honestly say my subaru has absolutely no leaks or seeping anywhere.
That was a really good video. thanks; You should of probably considered dropping the transmission pan and replacing the lower filter (there are two, but you can only get to one without completely taking apart the transmission). Your pumping technique also means that you exchanged out alot of the fluid that was in the torque converter.. nice job.
I DIY the flush with dropping pan and change the bottom filter with a new one. I encountered a problem with pan screw... two of them was to affected by rust an give up when I tried to unscrew them. I was lucky enough to finish the job with an extractor tool for remain screws. If you have an elevator the old fluid keep going even after the first start of the engine. In this way you can flush out less but old oil in majority. With motor running I suspect you will exit mixed oil so you will have to use a larger quantity for flushing . So....kepp it mind ...if you screws pan is rusty be prepared for extra time and tools. If you make the flash with your car on an elevator you can use the gravity in the first stage of flushing after the first start of the engine. Conect your drain hose to the exit end on transmission directly..... It's the tight one. Left is for oil income and right is for oil out.
Great explanation, only problem is fluid that was used, NEVER USE anything other than OEM Subaru CVTF-2 Fluid in this generation Transmission, should be teal green in color NOT gold.
Glad to see this video! I have 36k on my ‘14 Crosstrek and was wondering how often I should service the CVT. Changed the diffs at 30k, front looked good but the rear was nasty. Ever since then I’ve been thinking about the CVT. Good to know the fluid in there holds up well!
I ran the fluid for another 120,000 miles. Probably ran it a little too long before changing again lol. Transmission has been fine, but a solenoid on the valve body went out. The 2015 model year had valve body problems, so getting 230k miles before it went out was pretty damn good. Flushed again with the same Amsoil fluid and shifting good as ever! This time I dropped the pan, replaced the strainer, cleaned the magnet and pan, then re-sealed it with RTV.
@@max-weberValve bodies on these TR580s are easily serviceable because they are located at the top of the tranny. How much did the dealer charge you to replace that solenoid?
Could you do this one liter at a time. For example, turn the car on until 1L comes out, shut it off, add 1L of fluid to the CVT and repeat until the fluid runs clear?
Yes, thats essentially what was done in the video. You can really only safely flush out a couple liters at a time or else you risk running the pan dry. It might be more difficult to flush at a slower pace, since when the car is turned off the fluid wants to fall back down into the pan.
Thank you very much, I was very concern that my 2016 did not have a dip stick to check it.I have 33K on my trans (bought car new) and always change all non - engine oil fluids after 5K, 20K, 60k + but the trans seems to be a sealed case. Will have my mechanic work on it and send him this video
I didn’t see this process when I was working at Subaru dealership they used to just drain the cvt fluid and refill it back up and done This process look more complicated?
That's correct, a regular drain and fill is usually fine, especially if done at regular intervals. This flush will exchange about 90% of the fluid whereas a regular drain and fill will exchange about 40%
Great video, I'm doing it next summer. Question, why not? 1. Drain/refill 2. Put the cooler output in a pan (like you did) and the input to the transmission coming from an elevated container with fresh fluid. The transmission itself would pump in the new fluid and you collect the old until it gets clear. 3. Check and top off.
Its difficult to tell exactly how the fluid moves within the transmission. I believe there is no suction on the cooler input line, so you would have to hook up a pump anyway and it would be difficult to monitor how much fluid remains in the pan.
@@max-weber So, why the pressure goes up when he turns the engine on? You see the clear container filling quicker with the engine on. The electric pump used on the video seems to just refill the transmission. I believe there is an internal pump that circulates the fluid through the cooler, and it has enough pressure to do the job.
@@cs_yt Yes, the internal pump is pushing out the old fluid, but if the outlet hose is disconnected then the same pump can't push fluid back into the transmission. It draws fluid directly from the pan. It's not a sealed system, so you would have to pump fluid back in using an external pump anyways. Running the pan dry will destroy the transmission which is why I opted to fill directly into the pan from the fill hole (where I could also make sure I was keeping the pan full)
@@max-weber I see the problem now. The return from the cooler is pressurized keeping the internal pan filled when the system is sealed, in my suggestion there is no major pressure( just gravity) and the risk of having the transmission running low in fluid. The electrical pump plus the stop and go of the engine guarantees that the transmission won't run dry. I could do a lot of stop and go, but then you want the transmission to run a little to dislodge any gunk. Good discussion. So, I'll do like the video after all. Cheers!
Ok, I will summarize everything based on both your explanations and I will add mine too. I’ve seen a teardown of this transmission TR580 and it has an internal rotary pump. As to where the fluid goes internally, I can only guess. I agree with Max that the pump picks up fluid from the pan and pushes it to the cooler, then upon reaching the return port (input line) on the CVT, the fluid just drops or cascades down like a waterfall back to the drain pan. This movement of the fluid from the cooler back to the CVT is totally dependent on the pressure (pushing effect) being applied by the pump so there is no suction present on the return line just positive pressure. The negative pressure or suction though is at the drain pan. Hence, this explains why Max got some fluid spurting from the exposed return port because there was no suction happening there. Had there been any, no spurting would have occurred. I can relax without this hanging over my head now. Thank you guys. Salute!😊
Great instructional video... But I have a question could you have just hook up the pump to the line going back in the transmission vs the fill section?
Yes, it can be done perfectly with the pump connected to the return line. Two things, it is important to carry out the work with a hydraulic pump that moves more oil flow and second, to carry out an exhaustive control during the process of the oil that comes out and the one that goes into the transmission.
Could you use two pumps and do with engine off? So it goes in and out at same speed so you can just turn them both on and off a close to the same time?
I just don't Understand so many many people are Still don't give the like 👍 comments thumb 👍 at the same time to let them know that we appreciate the comments and their Sharing to Help other people like us and to Respond back to us..😔😔
The only real filter in the TR580 is in the transmission case. What's in the vicinity of the pickup tube is more like a strainer. Only way to service the filter in modern Subarus is to remove the entire transmission.
Good morning Max, I am unable to get to the link letting me know how to purchase the items used to change CVT fluid. I would appreciate sending the directions on getting to your link. Thank you
Yeah, it turns out the 22% CVT Deterioration rate estimated in the App didn't correlate with the lab analysis I had done of the fluid. They said the condition of the fluid was consistent with CVT fluid they analyze with 50k miles. Still good to get fresh (higher quality) fluid in there, as apparently these valve bodies have been having issues.
So all I’ve seen for cars is the dump and fill technique. Do most cars have that outlet so you can extract most of the fluid while the car is on? I have a Prius, which has a cvt (obviously) wondering if I can do the same.
2 Things: 1. Why did you opt not to drop the pan? Is there a filter in that transmission that needs to be changed? 2. Cambro makes better containers than rubbermaid ;) Very informative though, great job.
Haha thanks. I didn't drop the pan because it's a liquid gasket and I wanted to avoid having to re-seal it. There's a strainer in the pan that can be cleaned or replaced, but the paper filter is deep inside the CVT and would require complete disassembly of the transmission to replace.
I would hook up an OBDII reader and see what code you're getting. There's a number of things that could be happening: Bad sensor, pump wearing out, some other kind of glitch with the TCU. That's something I would consider beyond amateur mechanic capability (take it into a transmission shop for diagnosis)
@@manuellopez-pm8ib I had the same issue, multiple codes ,fixed o2 code , then the check engine went out, getting some intermeittany with valve body in Trans, at light is now off
Thanks for sharing. I understood that you drained the cvt fluids into a container and measured about 7quartz. Then when you fill it through the fill plug, it was only 4quartz? I think I’m lost when you started flushing the fluids... how can I make sure I’m putting back the same amount of fluids back in? Thank you
The remaining fluid has to be added in while the engine is running (when the engine is off, fluid migrates back down out of the transmission since the transmission fluid pump is off). You fill the pan with the engine off. Then you start up, cycle through some gears, add fluid until it starts running out the fill port. The CVT fluid temperature has to be within a designated range (86F-104F) to get the correct fluid level because the fluid expands and contracts based on how hot it is. That's why you need the OBD reader and activeOBD app.
Just had my At Oil Temp Light come on, code read I need to replace Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid which is Stuck Off. Does anyone know if replacing fluid can fix this? Otherwise I’m learning I need a whole replacement CVT
My 2014 forester has just reach 100k and i am wondering if i should do the same thing since subaru only cover up to 100k miles....never tow anything, regular city/fwy drive with 2 times desert fun only. Also not sure where i can get a shop to do it.....
What if I regularly (say every 15k) removed 1 qt. of CVT fluid and added that EXACT amount back? Would it keep things running OK without the need for a massive flush every 60k?
Super job but christ who wants to go through that 😔 I moved my Forester XT on ( cvt) due to no end of issues and just 59k miles. Have a Golf DSG and have never looked back 😎
Me neither on my 2015 Legacy. I was also informed by my mechanic that Subaru's are known for blown head gaskets due to the boxer engine. I hope he's wrong.
Used to be subaru transmissions had a screw on oil filter type trans filter and a dip stick. Guess too many people where working on their own stuff. Stealership not making enough money.
@@calebjared75 I'd have to reference an MRT video. It explains it better than I can. You have to take the transmission completely out of the car and split the case. ua-cam.com/video/34hS9691L04/v-deo.html
man you need to look into the tool Mercedes has its a hand pump and it pumps the fluid back up through the drain plug was easier faster and cleaner ( about $140) well worth it works on most metric cars
I have a problem, I am hoping you have some recommendations that will help me. I was changing my fr diff fluid. I opened a fill plug on the driver side. MISTAKE.and pumped around two qts into the converter. Now I need to remove it. I found the correct fill plug on the passenger side. You mention in your video do not use different products. So I gather I should purchase Subaru CVT fluid. Or should I buy ams CVT flush and replace the 12 qts.
I have questions. You were adding fluid back into the CVT through the fill plug. 1st. How come you didn’t or have you tried to add the fluid with pump through the nipple on CVT where the fluid returns normally. The port where you removed hose to capture the drained fluid? By keep the fill plug open you could tell if pump was adding fluid to fast. 2nd question is the pump you used to add fluid. How much does it pump compared to the CVT pumping out? I couldn’t tell by video wether the side of catch container was measured in gallons or litters. I kinda timed after you started engine and it looks like it took appox 16 or 17 seconds to fill to first larger line in container. But was that 1 gallon or 2 litters in the time of appox 16 or 17 seconds. This was by far the best video I have seen on flushing CVT fluid.
The electric pump handles much less oil flow than the CVT's internal pump; that's why it stops the motor every 1.5 to 2 liters of discharge. Care must be taken that the internal pump never sucks in air which can be very detrimental to the cvt transmission. In short, the tray must always contain a sufficient level of oil to avoid internal damage.
Is a flush necessary for the CVT? My '19 Impreza is at 50,000 miles and I plan on getting a fluid drain & fill. Which will not be nearly as much new fluid in/old fluid out.
Hi. There are many transmissions lost pressure after changed CVT oil. Does CVT oil need to chang? Subaru use book tell us CVT doesn't need to change. One more question why don't you use Subaru CVT oil ? Any special for AMS Oil. I find CVT oil DIY vedio for long time.
Correct. Subaru does not want the CVT fluid changed. They only recommend checking the condition of the fluid every 30k miles. You only replace the fluid if you find the condition of the fluid degraded/contaminated or if you tow a lot with the vehicle.
Did you experience any decrease in mpg after using AMSOIL CVT Fluid?? what mpg no. you got with amsoil & OEM CVT Fluid?? You Experienced any hesitation or shudder after using AMSOIL CVT Fluid??
There's been no change in MPG. The only time the car gets sluggish is if I haven't changed out the air intake filter in a while. The transmission also likes to be warmed up, so I usually run it until the engine cold light goes off before I drive away.
What if you just want to check the cvt fluid level? Do you have to warm it up first to reach in the hole and see if it's filled up, or can it be done cold?? I found a small leak near a bolt and I'm not sure if something splashed or if I have a slow leak.... so I wanna check and be safe. Thanks!!
You would have to do it with the engine running, otherwise you will get about 2 quarts of fluid out of the check plug when you unscrew it. You have to have it under 86F otherwise you will get fluid coming out as well. So... cold engine (preferrably left off overnight), jack the car up and get under it, start the car and let it run. Open the check plug and wait for the temp to get to 86F. Ideally you want it to start dribbling out fluid in the middle of the 86F-104F temperature range (so about 95F)which would indicate proper fluid level. If you get over 104F and fluid still hasnt start dribbling out, then you are low on fluid. You will have to close the plug, shut off the car, wait for it to cool down again, then start it back up, take the check plug off, wait for it to get to 86F then top off the fluid until you get a small dribble out the check plug, then close the check plug and shut the car off again. (all this because subaru doesn't want end users servicing their own transmissions)
Thanks for the video. This is second time changing my cvt fluid (not flushing). I’m at 139k miles and had to replace a solenoid on the valve body. Thanks for the scan tool link, one thing I’ve struggled with is a scan tool that reads trans temp!
The OBD LX reader that plugs into the OBDII port will work on any car, however the app I used to get the CVT temp is specific to Subaru cars (ActiveOBD). I believe you need to search for an app for your car that can read the additional information coming from the onboard computers, TCU etc. I will say that if you have a CVT cooler, the temperature of your CVT fluid will be almost identical to your coolant temperature. If you can read the coolant temperature you will have a good idea how hot the CVT is.
Great video, thank you. My Subie has 80k miles and I drive a lot in West Virginia, up and down... I’m planning on following your procedure, and I have one thing that i am unclear about. When you topped off the transmission was the car running? You said It was “heating up” so it sounds like it was. Thanks again.
Yes, I forgot to mention that in the video but I put it in the info section below the video. The car has to be running to get the rest of the fluid in. Temperature between 86F and 104F with fluid dribbling out while the engine runs.
This was a good job. Not sure that the pump could keep up with the engine flow as you were dumping. Other than that it shows people something they probably didn't know. Also, how did you put 100k on that car in three years lol. I've put a ton of miles on my forester doing mergers and acquisitions, it's a workhorse.
I was told that our 2015 Forrester CVT is a sealed unit and no service is needed. The drive belt will wear out and then the unit is exchanged; just like replacing a worn out clutch on a manual transmission. No fluid changes should be necessary unless the vehicle is being used for towing heavy loads at high temperatures.
Under light usage (mild weather, no traffic, flat terrain, medium distance driving), most people will probably be able to get away with never changing the fluid. The lab test that I had done of my fluid at 100k miles shows that it was moderately degraded (although not 22% degraded like the app was saying). Not to detract from the comparatively well-built CVT Subaru has chosen to put in their vehicles, manufacturers are under pressure to boost numbers (MPG being one of them, which is why manufacturers use CVTs). Service intervals are another instance where manufacturers need to keep the total cost of ownership down, thus boosting their ratings on consumer reports etc. Consumer reports highly regards the Forester, which influenced my decision to purchase this car (as well as the safety record). So while Subaru's official statement is that fluid service of the CVT is not needed, it's prudent to replace the CVT fluid every 100k miles if one plans to own the car for a long time (or 24k miles under severe service).
Do CVTs utilize fluid in the same way that traditional automatics do? Are there issues with changing out old fluid? Any changes in characteristics with the CVT by using the Amsoil fluid?
In alot of ways the fluid is used the same way, but CVT fluid is formulated to keep the chain/belt engaged and not slipping. If the chain/belt slips, that's a major no bueno. The fluid also needs to function well in the valve body (like a regular automatic tranny would) which hydraulically controls the transmission. The torque converter uses the fluid in a similar way as well. I noticed that after I put in the amsoil fluid, I am getting better engagement of the torque converter as well as smoother valve body activity (when the transmission adjusts depending on load, speed, etc) I think the amsoil fluid definitely exceeds the needs of this CVT, but since it was actually cheaper than the factory fluid (and I'm out of warranty), I decided to go with it. I've put about 20,000 miles on the car since this video and have had no issues.
Hey max I'm not completely sure about this however I've been told by a friend at the dealer the subaru is providing warranty on the trans for certain models to 150K
@@max-weber Hola max weber Una consulta: por que no le pusiste ATF CVT valvoline full sintetico ? Que diferencia el aceite cvt amsoil versus el aceite cvt valvoline ? espero me puedas responder saludos
@@abrahamabraham7629 Llamé a Amsoil por teléfono y me dijeron que su fluido funciona para la transmisión TR580 y TR690. Si desea utilizar Valvoline, debe llamarlos o enviarlos por correo electrónico y preguntarles también.
I have had a Subaru forester 1997 (automatic) from new, that has been great for all the years with very little to do other than annual services. However, recently I have had a lot of vibration & shuddering on the wheels when making tight turns (left or right). It is difficult to identify which wheels the noise or shudder comes from and I don't feel much through the steering wheel. I have had all difs replace that has reduced the frequency but not always. We hope it isn't the automatic gear box but has anyone got any ideas what to do next.
It could be the CV axles/joints going bad. Do a search for your model year and you should see what to look for. It might be worth having a mechanic check it out, they can usually tell right away on a road test. You could also check the rubber CV boots to see if they're cracked open
@@max-weber Thanks Max, I have already had my local Subaru dealer/workshop check it out and they came up with the idea of changing the difs and now say it may need a gearbox recon. So it is good to hear from someone else their thoughts. I will check out your idea. Thanks again. We don't want to loose our car..... she is part of the family.....we have had her more than 21 years and has been a faithful work-horse.
Hello, great video. Can you come up with a way to flush the coolant on a Subaru Impreza, preferably a 2017-19 base . Lots of guys are pulling the lower hose And removing the thermostat. I would like to see a system where fluid is evacuated as distilled water is pumped in . Maybe utilizing a block plug to drain or the peacock valve .. let us know !!!!
there's actually a much easier way way easier than you're doing it to put the transmission fluid back into the Subaru Forester and all's you have to do is open the hood and look for the heat exchanger for the transmission cooler remove one of the hoses preferably the return line hose and just fill it from that way using your old pump that you have you can fill up the whole tire Reservoir with the Seven Courts cuz usually it takes 7 not really any less than that and just fill it from the return line on the heat exchanger the easiest way to feel it and a lot faster
A person would still want to drain and fill the pan first to allow the system to draw in fresh fluid only. You still have to monitor the level of fresh fluid in the pan or you risk running the pan dry the only way to do that is keep the fill plug out and watch for overflow. Notice how he had to wait for like 20 seconds to catch up? The car is drawing way faster than the pump. If you pump into the return line vs directly into the pan what would you be gaining? I don't see any advantage.
This car is out of warranty, but if you are referring to using aftermarket CVT fluid, Subaru cannot legally void the warranty for use of aftermarket fluid.
Anybody running the PENTOSIN CVT1 fluid that Rock Auto sells? It meets Subaru spec and RA is a reputable parts supplier. Want to do this or at least a filter/fluid change.
The CVT has never felt ideal, I'm not really a fan of them, but it's tough to find a normal automatic transmission these days. I'd wait until you're out of warranty before touching it. My lab results showed the fluid was still ok (but they said it was good I changed it out at 100k). Under normal basic usage, 100k is a good time to do it. If you're off-roading, towing, lead foot, etc you should consider at least every 50k
The TR580 transmission in this video was put in these vehicles: 2012-17 Legacy/Outback 2.5L NA 2012-17 Impreza 2.0L NA 2013-15 Crosstrek 2.0L NA 2014-2017 Forester 2.5L NA So as long as your car is the naturally aspirated 2.0L Impreza you should be fine. Edit: 3 gallons is probably enough for a light flush, but you would probably be better off with 4.
I was going over you video again . Definitely best flush out there . Question why didn’t you drop the transmission pan and change the filter? Does the tr580 have an internal filter? Did you ever consider adding an external transmission filter? If so can you recommend one ? Amsoil has one but it’s very costly. B and m has one but reviews were mixed . Any info would be helpful.. again that flush. Is the best system out there👍 look forward to see how you handle the coolant flush !!!
You are correct about the filter being deep inside the transmission. You would have to tear down the transmission to get to it. There is a strainer that you could replace in the pan, but generally there shouldn't be enough material in the system to need to do it (especially if you do this flush). The pan uses a liquid gasket, I chose not to drop the pan for that reason, but if you're comfortable re-sealing the pan with liquid gasket (added cost, time, potential for leaks) then that would be a good way to get even more of the old fluid out before the flush.
You said the car was at 100000 miles. Was that the fist time the trans fluid was changed ?? I believe Subaru suggest it be changed every 30 000 km ?????
My 2014 crosstrek says 100,00KM/60 months which is 5 years i think. I followed the year this time since it's the first cvt fluid change. Also Subaru was known for weak CVT
There is no procedure in the factory service manual for a transmission flush. They have a writeup for a drain and fill though. If you google "subaru forester factory service manual" you should find a place to get it. Most service shops will hook into the cooler lines to flush a transmission, which is what the subaru specialist in my area does.
40,000 miles on the new fluid with no issues. It looks like there are aftermarket gaskets for the transmission pan since I last made this video. I might have tried dropping the pan if there was a gasket available when I made this video.
Thanks for the video. I see that you’re not using Subaru oem but amsoil. How is it working so far? And also, what about valvoline max life multi vehicle atf which claims to work for Subaru cvt also?
Amsoil is best will go for 50k in between changes and valvoline is good as in it works with subaru but it's like a general cvt it can handle heat etc so it's good but suggest 30k changes as for branded I feel there is better stuff out there now like amsoil ... to the point these branded companies pay to put there name on others products
Amsoil is trying to sell CVT fluid, of course theyre going to say it's comparable. That's not a chanse I'm willing to take. You only can exchange maybe 40% of the fluid at a time, mixing different fluids is asking for trouble, IMO.
The opinion of experts in the field of automatic transmissions differs as to their analysis. The proportion of the new fluid is greater than 80 percent. The internal hydraulic pump of the CVT transmission always transfers the oil back through the return line through all the internal mechanisms and elements in a closed circuit. The only thing missing from Max's procedure was removing the pan, cleaning the magnet, and replacing the strainer filter. Redline, Pentosin, Ravenol, Liquimoly, among others, make premium NS-2 cvt fluids compatible with this transmission. It's up to you whether to continue with dirty, oxidized oil in your transmission or to have regular maintenance.
The procedure should be the same, except the check/fill plug will be in a different location. I believe the check/fill plug is rearward instead of on the side.
The cooler lines are going to be differently oriented too. You might only be able to do a drain and fill with the TR690, or you might have to pump directly into the return line to avoid the issue you describe. I believe the TR580 has the valve body up top, the TR690 (Gen 1) valve body is down low. Here's the Factory Manual for the 2015 Forester that has the TR580 and TR690 information (I don't have it downloaded on this computer) download857.mediafire.com/kq1ukq5j24og/kdetjvwea35kmw3/USDM+Forester+FSM+2015.zip
Great video and discussion. Can not thank you enough. I have a 2015 WRX with a Tr690. At 46k miles, my subi dealer recommended me to replace my cvtf and strainer while I had to replace a leaking oil seal on my front diff. Unfortunately I later learned that the dealership used the Motul Multi CVTF and not the Subi genuine High Torque Cvtf. While the Motul tech data sheet mentioned compatibility with a tr690…,When pushing the car thereafter, I ve noticed a chain slippage for the 1st time ever. Now am driving my subi like a Toyota yaris and it sucks big time. To mention that the Subi dealer did just a drain and fill with 9 Liters out of the total 12.5liters. Do you think your flushing technic will work in my case? Or will I have to do an expensive 2 drain and fill to get rid of as much as possible of that Motul Multi?
I have been working on cars for a while now, and you included everything I needed to know. Even though with transmissions, there is no substitution for having the FSM and being able to read it, your video sped the process up. THANK YOU
Great video on a thorough cvt transfusion. I can suggest, when the fluid is done draining. Drop the transmission pan, thoroughly clean the magnet that is located in the dimple on the pan, and clean the pan itself. Replace the filter screen, reseal,and re assemble. Then do your transfusion. That is the only suggestion I have, great video. And Amsoil is always a safe bet in my books, I've run it for years and always will.
The filter in the cvt isn't accessible by removing the pan don't really need to clean the magnet every time
It's a cvt. Obviously no pan.
@@Beefycheddermelt It does have a pan, but the screen in it is just a screen on the pickup tube....not a filter as such.
When flushing a transmission, like in this video, I usually drop the pan and filter after the flush. That way, no contamination on the filter ( screen) and the pan remains clean.
Not meaning to criticize, just sharing the way I did my flushes.
Taking the pan off doesn’t do anything
The cvt fluid get pulverized and whipped millions of times within the first 50,000 miles. The oils molecular structure; mainly hydrocarbons, break down over time. Which is why it turns black because the black color is the loose carbon that broke away from the initial hydrocarbon molecule. When the carbon atoms break away from the molecule, at some point the molecule is too small to create the lubricating effect between the metal moving parts and rubbing parts inside the cvt. So, to make that more understandable: The reason why oils lubricate is because their molecules are small enough to slip between very very close spaces, but large enough and strong enough to prevent these spaces from rubbing hard enough to create severe wear and tear. When these molecules break down and get smaller, they now slip in between the spaces but do not prevent the pieces from gliding against eachother like when they were larger. So you MUST change the oil at the beginning of breakdown to insure there is proper lubrication. It really is a fascinating topic.
The oils breakdown starts virtually immediately the second you go forward, and it only becomes necessary to change when the amount of smaller molecules defeats the lubricating ability of surviving, fully formed hydrocarbon molecules. In a cvt, this is roughly 25,000 miles.
You dont necessarily need to flush the cvt in order to replace all the loose carbon with new hydrocarbon molecules (oil) after you change the fluid out, but you should because of gunk build up, microscopic metal fragments that will wear the cvt more and more, especially if it is the first fluid change because a new cvt breaks in 5x more than it will between 50,000-200,000 miles.
I'm convinced. Thank you. If you care about your car and plan on long term ownership, this is very sound information, and guidance.
P F I’m glad and thank you for your reply! 😊
@@TubeBrowser2 I guarantee you they changed that fluid at some point during service intervals
@@mr.terwilliger5728 I bought it new and never had the CVT serviced. My bad, of course.
@@TubeBrowser2 If you ever brought it in for service intervals with the dealer when it was new they definitely changed it
I am glad there are people on UA-cam like you that make these types of videos. Very enjoyeable content. I think I'll still pay the cash to Subaru to do that process for me though.
Brian Walsingham honestly they won’t do all this it’s not necessary if u change ur fluid every 60k they basically just do a drain and fill of about 7 quarts.
instablaster
I have a 2011 impreza automatic and on my year and other year models they came with 2 types of transmissions, one model transmission has a serviceable screw on filter and mine does not have any filter whatsoever besides a screen for large debris, so I've been changing my transmission fluid every 25,000 for assurance since it was new, at these change intervals I will guarantee I will get well over 200k, I have 135k now and showing no signs of wear and it drives just like new, well worth a 1 hour job once a year, I'm also a freak on engine oil change too, 3k on the oil and its changed out no exception no matter what the oil says and I can honestly say my subaru has absolutely no leaks or seeping anywhere.
I applaud your freakiness
That was a really good video. thanks;
You should of probably considered dropping the transmission pan and replacing the lower filter (there are two, but you can only get to one without completely taking apart the transmission). Your pumping technique also means that you exchanged out alot of the fluid that was in the torque converter.. nice job.
I DIY the flush with dropping pan and change the bottom filter with a new one. I encountered a problem with pan screw...
two of them was to affected by rust an give up when I tried to unscrew them. I was lucky enough to finish the job with an extractor tool for remain screws.
If you have an elevator the old fluid keep going even after the first start of the engine. In this way you can flush out less but old oil in majority.
With motor running I suspect you will exit mixed oil so you will have to use a larger quantity for flushing .
So....kepp it mind ...if you screws pan is rusty be prepared for extra time and tools.
If you make the flash with your car on an elevator you can use the gravity in the first stage of flushing after the first start of the engine. Conect your drain hose to the exit end on transmission directly.....
It's the tight one.
Left is for oil income and right is for oil out.
It seems today's car manufactures have you check the transmission fluid level at a specific temperature instead of a dipstick. Great video bro!!
my f150 trans dipstick has 2 level markers, one for cold and one for hot. I wish all manufacturers did that
Great explanation, only problem is fluid that was used, NEVER USE anything other than OEM Subaru CVTF-2 Fluid in this generation Transmission, should be teal green in color NOT gold.
I'm so glad Alvin and the chipmunks stopped by to help with stubborn hose removal. I'll have to schedule time with them when I do mine. Great video
At least Dave wasn’t there to yell!😉
Hi Max, if your Subaru reaches the next 100,000 miles on Amsoil fluid you are going to leave many exeptic people speechless.
Crush washer was set wrong. Flat side on the bolt side and round side facing the pan.
Glad to see this video! I have 36k on my ‘14 Crosstrek and was wondering how often I should service the CVT. Changed the diffs at 30k, front looked good but the rear was nasty. Ever since then I’ve been thinking about the CVT. Good to know the fluid in there holds up well!
if u did install a cvt cooler, a video would be awesome dude!
The heat exchanger is the cooler.
any update about using non oem fluid...omg this is 7 yrs old. nevermind.its been changed out by now
I ran the fluid for another 120,000 miles. Probably ran it a little too long before changing again lol. Transmission has been fine, but a solenoid on the valve body went out. The 2015 model year had valve body problems, so getting 230k miles before it went out was pretty damn good. Flushed again with the same Amsoil fluid and shifting good as ever! This time I dropped the pan, replaced the strainer, cleaned the magnet and pan, then re-sealed it with RTV.
@@max-weberValve bodies on these TR580s are easily serviceable because they are located at the top of the tranny. How much did the dealer charge you to replace that solenoid?
Could you do this one liter at a time. For example, turn the car on until 1L comes out, shut it off, add 1L of fluid to the CVT and repeat until the fluid runs clear?
Yes, thats essentially what was done in the video. You can really only safely flush out a couple liters at a time or else you risk running the pan dry. It might be more difficult to flush at a slower pace, since when the car is turned off the fluid wants to fall back down into the pan.
What everyone nevers says is you have to have the engine running to have the CVT pump going in order to fill in the CVT while getting it to temp.
Thank you very much, I was very concern that my 2016 did not have a dip stick to check it.I have 33K on my trans (bought car new) and always change all non - engine oil fluids after 5K, 20K, 60k + but the trans seems to be a sealed case. Will have my mechanic work on it and send him this video
You're welcome!
I didn’t see this process when I was working at Subaru dealership they used to just drain the cvt fluid and refill it back up and done This process look more complicated?
That's correct, a regular drain and fill is usually fine, especially if done at regular intervals. This flush will exchange about 90% of the fluid whereas a regular drain and fill will exchange about 40%
@@max-weber Are you still with the Subaru, Max? What mileage do you already have?
I cleaned my filter with just brake cleaner and hot water, its 90$ for a new one but its just a metal screen mesh inside.
Comme on,some hot ATF oil in your eyes??? Got to love it and your directly involved and be one with your car!! He drank the stuff to!!!!!
Curious why you didn't just put the oil back into the oil cooler hose? granted your pump can't keep up with the engine but less chance of spills.
I'm wondering the same. Why not replace new fluid into the return line for the CVT cooler?
Why take a chance with non Subaru CVT fluid?
I'd tend to agree...the Amzoil isn't any cheaper than OEM.
Great video, I'm doing it next summer. Question, why not? 1. Drain/refill 2. Put the cooler output in a pan (like you did) and the input to the transmission coming from an elevated container with fresh fluid. The transmission itself would pump in the new fluid and you collect the old until it gets clear. 3. Check and top off.
Its difficult to tell exactly how the fluid moves within the transmission. I believe there is no suction on the cooler input line, so you would have to hook up a pump anyway and it would be difficult to monitor how much fluid remains in the pan.
@@max-weber So, why the pressure goes up when he turns the engine on? You see the clear container filling quicker with the engine on. The electric pump used on the video seems to just refill the transmission. I believe there is an internal pump that circulates the fluid through the cooler, and it has enough pressure to do the job.
@@cs_yt Yes, the internal pump is pushing out the old fluid, but if the outlet hose is disconnected then the same pump can't push fluid back into the transmission. It draws fluid directly from the pan. It's not a sealed system, so you would have to pump fluid back in using an external pump anyways. Running the pan dry will destroy the transmission which is why I opted to fill directly into the pan from the fill hole (where I could also make sure I was keeping the pan full)
@@max-weber I see the problem now. The return from the cooler is pressurized keeping the internal pan filled when the system is sealed, in my suggestion there is no major pressure( just gravity) and the risk of having the transmission running low in fluid. The electrical pump plus the stop and go of the engine guarantees that the transmission won't run dry. I could do a lot of stop and go, but then you want the transmission to run a little to dislodge any gunk. Good discussion. So, I'll do like the video after all. Cheers!
Ok, I will summarize everything based on both your explanations and I will add mine too. I’ve seen a teardown of this transmission TR580 and it has an internal rotary pump. As to where the fluid goes internally, I can only guess. I agree with Max that the pump picks up fluid from the pan and pushes it to the cooler, then upon reaching the return port (input line) on the CVT, the fluid just drops or cascades down like a waterfall back to the drain pan. This movement of the fluid from the cooler back to the CVT is totally dependent on the pressure (pushing effect) being applied by the pump so there is no suction present on the return line just positive pressure. The negative pressure or suction though is at the drain pan. Hence, this explains why Max got some fluid spurting from the exposed return port because there was no suction happening there. Had there been any, no spurting would have occurred. I can relax without this hanging over my head now. Thank you guys. Salute!😊
Shouldn't the new fluid be pumped where the return line was connected to?
Great instructional video... But I have a question could you have just hook up the pump to the line going back in the transmission vs the fill section?
Yes, it can be done perfectly with the pump connected to the return line. Two things, it is important to carry out the work with a hydraulic pump that moves more oil flow and second, to carry out an exhaustive control during the process of the oil that comes out and the one that goes into the transmission.
Could you use two pumps and do with engine off? So it goes in and out at same speed so you can just turn them both on and off a close to the same time?
I just don't Understand so many many people are Still don't give the like 👍 comments thumb 👍 at the same time to let them know that we appreciate the comments and their Sharing to Help other people like us and to Respond back to us..😔😔
Great video. Subarus are the best.
Dont we need any kind of filter in transmission?
Why does everyone seem to change the fluid but not the filter?
The only real filter in the TR580 is in the transmission case. What's in the vicinity of the pickup tube is more like a strainer. Only way to service the filter in modern Subarus is to remove the entire transmission.
Good morning Max, I am unable to get to the link letting me know how to purchase the items used to change CVT fluid. I would appreciate sending the directions on getting to your link. Thank you
Love the video. Thanks for the info. I'm planning on doing this very soon having seen this video and how easy it really is.
Is it possible to connect the hose from electric pump to the outlet tube (where you disconnected the outlet hose)?
I have the same question
WOW! this is the best CVT video Ive seen, good job. This fluid was never changed before and was still in great shape?
Yeah, it turns out the 22% CVT Deterioration rate estimated in the App didn't correlate with the lab analysis I had done of the fluid. They said the condition of the fluid was consistent with CVT fluid they analyze with 50k miles. Still good to get fresh (higher quality) fluid in there, as apparently these valve bodies have been having issues.
So its safe to say 100k is a good time to change it? Or earlier?
That's what amsoil recommends, but subaru claims the fluid is lifetime.
So all I’ve seen for cars is the dump and fill technique. Do most cars have that outlet so you can extract most of the fluid while the car is on? I have a Prius, which has a cvt (obviously) wondering if I can do the same.
I'm not sure Priuses have a transmission cooler. I think it's offered as an option but it might not be on every model.
2 Things:
1. Why did you opt not to drop the pan? Is there a filter in that transmission that needs to be changed?
2. Cambro makes better containers than rubbermaid ;)
Very informative though, great job.
Haha thanks. I didn't drop the pan because it's a liquid gasket and I wanted to avoid having to re-seal it. There's a strainer in the pan that can be cleaned or replaced, but the paper filter is deep inside the CVT and would require complete disassembly of the transmission to replace.
I have a 2010 Subaru Legacy the at oil temp is flashing went is running what can be wrong with it
I would hook up an OBDII reader and see what code you're getting. There's a number of things that could be happening: Bad sensor, pump wearing out, some other kind of glitch with the TCU. That's something I would consider beyond amateur mechanic capability (take it into a transmission shop for diagnosis)
In those CVT's, filter is only accessible if you drop the tranny
@@manuellopez-pm8ib I had the same issue, multiple codes ,fixed o2 code , then the check engine went out, getting some intermeittany with valve body in Trans, at light is now off
Will the transmission flushing on the 2014 Forester XT (with FA20 DIT) be similar?
Yes, but the CVT cooler inlet and outlet hose are positioned differently. See this image I uploaded for a previous viewer: imgur.com/0xy1EyN
22:23 what is the app you used to read the CVT fluid temperature? thanks.
ActiveOBD for Android. Use the OBD tool linked in the description because some won't read the CVT data.
Thanks for sharing. I understood that you drained the cvt fluids into a container and measured about 7quartz. Then when you fill it through the fill plug, it was only 4quartz?
I think I’m lost when you started flushing the fluids... how can I make sure I’m putting back the same amount of fluids back in? Thank you
The remaining fluid has to be added in while the engine is running (when the engine is off, fluid migrates back down out of the transmission since the transmission fluid pump is off). You fill the pan with the engine off. Then you start up, cycle through some gears, add fluid until it starts running out the fill port. The CVT fluid temperature has to be within a designated range (86F-104F) to get the correct fluid level because the fluid expands and contracts based on how hot it is. That's why you need the OBD reader and activeOBD app.
Just had my At Oil Temp Light come on, code read I need to replace Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid which is Stuck Off. Does anyone know if replacing fluid can fix this? Otherwise I’m learning I need a whole replacement CVT
You must replace the valve body and the cvt fluid.
My 2014 forester has just reach 100k and i am wondering if i should do the same thing since subaru only cover up to 100k miles....never tow anything, regular city/fwy drive with 2 times desert fun only.
Also not sure where i can get a shop to do it.....
What if I regularly (say every 15k) removed 1 qt. of CVT fluid and added that EXACT amount back? Would it keep things running OK without the need for a massive flush every 60k?
Super job but christ who wants to go through that 😔 I moved my Forester XT on ( cvt) due to no end of issues and just 59k miles. Have a Golf DSG and have never looked back 😎
Have a '17 Impreza and a '19 Forester, not looking forward to those transmission fluid flushes.
Me neither on my 2015 Legacy. I was also informed by my mechanic that Subaru's are known for blown head gaskets due to the boxer engine. I hope he's wrong.
Kenneth Kline unfortunately, he’s not.
They sorted their HG issues a number of years ago....the engines across the board have been all redesigned by 2012.
Used to be subaru transmissions had a screw on oil filter type trans filter and a dip stick. Guess too many people where working on their own stuff. Stealership not making enough money.
There is a spin on filter to be changed according to the parts catalog
@@bigdaddymak1439 That filter is inside the transmission and requires full disassembly in order to reach it.
EvilCerealBoX is it worth disassembling to replace the filter? Why wouldn't we change it?
@@calebjared75 I'd have to reference an MRT video. It explains it better than I can. You have to take the transmission completely out of the car and split the case.
ua-cam.com/video/34hS9691L04/v-deo.html
Were those still continually variable transmissions? or were they conventional auto transmissions?
Would like to have a idea on 2014 subaru forester c v t if its was a good year c v t
Hi Max. We are awaiting the next CVTF change.
I see on RockAuto that there is a filter available. Why didn't you replace that??
Unfortunately replacing the filter requires dismantling the entire transmission.
Thanks for the helpful video! Also what kind of headlights do you use they look much better and brighter than the OEM?
man you need to look into the tool Mercedes has its a hand pump and it pumps the fluid back up through the drain plug was easier faster and cleaner ( about $140) well worth it works on most metric cars
Can u plz share link of this pump ?
So how's that CVT doing today? 😂
still solid after another 100k miles :)
I have a problem, I am hoping you have some recommendations that will help me. I was changing my fr diff fluid. I opened a fill plug on the driver side. MISTAKE.and pumped around two qts into the converter. Now I need to remove it. I found the correct fill plug on the passenger side. You mention in your video do not use different products. So I gather I should purchase Subaru CVT fluid. Or should I buy ams CVT flush and replace the 12 qts.
oh man, yeah it might be a good idea to try and flush it out of there.
I have questions. You were adding fluid back into the CVT through the fill plug.
1st. How come you didn’t or have you tried to add the fluid with pump through the nipple on CVT where the fluid returns normally. The port where you removed hose to capture the drained fluid? By keep the fill plug open you could tell if pump was adding fluid to fast.
2nd question is the pump you used to add fluid. How much does it pump compared to the CVT pumping out? I couldn’t tell by video wether the side of catch container was measured in gallons or litters. I kinda timed after you started engine and it looks like it took appox 16 or 17 seconds to fill to first larger line in container. But was that 1 gallon or 2 litters in the time of appox 16 or 17 seconds.
This was by far the best video I have seen on flushing CVT fluid.
The electric pump handles much less oil flow than the CVT's internal pump; that's why it stops the motor every 1.5 to 2 liters of discharge. Care must be taken that the internal pump never sucks in air which can be very detrimental to the cvt transmission. In short, the tray must always contain a sufficient level of oil to avoid internal damage.
Is a flush necessary for the CVT? My '19 Impreza is at 50,000 miles and I plan on getting a fluid drain & fill. Which will not be nearly as much new fluid in/old fluid out.
Hi. There are many transmissions lost pressure after changed CVT oil. Does CVT oil need to chang? Subaru use book tell us CVT doesn't need to change. One more question why don't you use Subaru CVT oil ? Any special for AMS Oil. I find CVT oil DIY vedio for long time.
Correct. Subaru does not want the CVT fluid changed. They only recommend checking the condition of the fluid every 30k miles. You only replace the fluid if you find the condition of the fluid degraded/contaminated or if you tow a lot with the vehicle.
Hi, after you change cvt oil how many miles your car on the road on amsoil? How its feel? Have some diffrents?
70000 miles no issues
Next change in 100000 miles?
@@justdoit7091 yeah probably
Did you experience any decrease in mpg after using AMSOIL CVT Fluid??
what mpg no. you got with amsoil & OEM CVT Fluid??
You Experienced any hesitation or shudder after using AMSOIL CVT Fluid??
There's been no change in MPG. The only time the car gets sluggish is if I haven't changed out the air intake filter in a while. The transmission also likes to be warmed up, so I usually run it until the engine cold light goes off before I drive away.
What if you just want to check the cvt fluid level? Do you have to warm it up first to reach in the hole and see if it's filled up, or can it be done cold?? I found a small leak near a bolt and I'm not sure if something splashed or if I have a slow leak.... so I wanna check and be safe. Thanks!!
You would have to do it with the engine running, otherwise you will get about 2 quarts of fluid out of the check plug when you unscrew it. You have to have it under 86F otherwise you will get fluid coming out as well.
So... cold engine (preferrably left off overnight), jack the car up and get under it, start the car and let it run. Open the check plug and wait for the temp to get to 86F. Ideally you want it to start dribbling out fluid in the middle of the 86F-104F temperature range (so about 95F)which would indicate proper fluid level. If you get over 104F and fluid still hasnt start dribbling out, then you are low on fluid. You will have to close the plug, shut off the car, wait for it to cool down again, then start it back up, take the check plug off, wait for it to get to 86F then top off the fluid until you get a small dribble out the check plug, then close the check plug and shut the car off again. (all this because subaru doesn't want end users servicing their own transmissions)
Thanks for the video. This is second time changing my cvt fluid (not flushing). I’m at 139k miles and had to replace a solenoid on the valve body.
Thanks for the scan tool link, one thing I’ve struggled with is a scan tool that reads trans temp!
You haven't do the front def, front def not share fluid with with cvt, it's using 75w90.
Front differential
I'll probably do a differential video next. I changed the diff fluid right before I made this cvt fluid video
Keep in mind that it is 6.5-7 quarts hot. Transmission fluid expands.
I guess installing a transmission filling tube wouldn't make sense....they don't make it easy do they
The obd connector that you used to check the CVT temperature will it work with all obd 2 cars
The OBD LX reader that plugs into the OBDII port will work on any car, however the app I used to get the CVT temp is specific to Subaru cars (ActiveOBD). I believe you need to search for an app for your car that can read the additional information coming from the onboard computers, TCU etc.
I will say that if you have a CVT cooler, the temperature of your CVT fluid will be almost identical to your coolant temperature. If you can read the coolant temperature you will have a good idea how hot the CVT is.
Max Weber ok yeah I have a cooler that is right with the radiator and condenser
OBDII is a standard(thankfully). any car with the port (pretty much everything after 1995 has one) will work with an OBDII scanner.
Hi Max, how is the Amsoil CVT fluid performing, would you use it again? TIA :)
Yeah has worked great no issues for over 100k miles
Might want to add a remote filter or stacked plate cooler
Subaru Outback 2010 213k bought used…I don’t think cut was ever change….code starting now!
Do you remember the size of the hose from the cooler?
Hello, did you have to do a CVT re-learn afterwards? Thx
Hey buddy, great video. I purchased the Obd2 scanner that you recommended but cannot find transmission temperature on menu, any ideas?
You'll need the ActiveOBD app for Subaru:
play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.activeobd.app&hl=en_US
Great video, thank you. My Subie has 80k miles and I drive a lot in West Virginia, up and down... I’m planning on following your procedure, and I have one thing that i am unclear about. When you topped off the transmission was the car running? You said It was “heating up” so it sounds like it was. Thanks again.
Yes, I forgot to mention that in the video but I put it in the info section below the video. The car has to be running to get the rest of the fluid in. Temperature between 86F and 104F with fluid dribbling out while the engine runs.
This was a good job. Not sure that the pump could keep up with the engine flow as you were dumping. Other than that it shows people something they probably didn't know. Also, how did you put 100k on that car in three years lol. I've put a ton of miles on my forester doing mergers and acquisitions, it's a workhorse.
Is this compatible with TR690 newer CVT for ascent ?
I was told that our 2015 Forrester CVT is a sealed unit and no service is needed. The drive belt will wear out and then the unit is exchanged; just like replacing a worn out clutch on a manual transmission. No fluid changes should be necessary unless the vehicle is being used for towing heavy loads at high temperatures.
Under light usage (mild weather, no traffic, flat terrain, medium distance driving), most people will probably be able to get away with never changing the fluid. The lab test that I had done of my fluid at 100k miles shows that it was moderately degraded (although not 22% degraded like the app was saying). Not to detract from the comparatively well-built CVT Subaru has chosen to put in their vehicles, manufacturers are under pressure to boost numbers (MPG being one of them, which is why manufacturers use CVTs). Service intervals are another instance where manufacturers need to keep the total cost of ownership down, thus boosting their ratings on consumer reports etc. Consumer reports highly regards the Forester, which influenced my decision to purchase this car (as well as the safety record). So while Subaru's official statement is that fluid service of the CVT is not needed, it's prudent to replace the CVT fluid every 100k miles if one plans to own the car for a long time (or 24k miles under severe service).
Do CVTs utilize fluid in the same way that traditional automatics do? Are there issues with changing out old fluid? Any changes in characteristics with the CVT by using the Amsoil fluid?
In alot of ways the fluid is used the same way, but CVT fluid is formulated to keep the chain/belt engaged and not slipping. If the chain/belt slips, that's a major no bueno. The fluid also needs to function well in the valve body (like a regular automatic tranny would) which hydraulically controls the transmission. The torque converter uses the fluid in a similar way as well. I noticed that after I put in the amsoil fluid, I am getting better engagement of the torque converter as well as smoother valve body activity (when the transmission adjusts depending on load, speed, etc) I think the amsoil fluid definitely exceeds the needs of this CVT, but since it was actually cheaper than the factory fluid (and I'm out of warranty), I decided to go with it. I've put about 20,000 miles on the car since this video and have had no issues.
Hey max I'm not completely sure about this however I've been told by a friend at the dealer the subaru is providing warranty on the trans for certain models to 150K
@@max-weber Hola max weber
Una consulta: por que no le pusiste ATF CVT valvoline full sintetico ? Que diferencia el aceite cvt amsoil versus el aceite cvt valvoline ?
espero me puedas responder
saludos
@@abrahamabraham7629 Llamé a Amsoil por teléfono y me dijeron que su fluido funciona para la transmisión TR580 y TR690. Si desea utilizar Valvoline, debe llamarlos o enviarlos por correo electrónico y preguntarles también.
@@max-weber gracias por todo
I'd like to be able to check my CVT temp
I have had a Subaru forester 1997 (automatic) from new, that has been great for all the years with very little to do other than annual services. However, recently I have had a lot of vibration & shuddering on the wheels when making tight turns (left or right). It is difficult to identify which wheels the noise or shudder comes from and I don't feel much through the steering wheel. I have had all difs replace that has reduced the frequency but not always. We hope it isn't the automatic gear box but has anyone got any ideas what to do next.
It could be the CV axles/joints going bad. Do a search for your model year and you should see what to look for. It might be worth having a mechanic check it out, they can usually tell right away on a road test. You could also check the rubber CV boots to see if they're cracked open
@@max-weber Thanks Max, I have already had my local Subaru dealer/workshop check it out and they came up with the idea of changing the difs and now say it may need a gearbox recon. So it is good to hear from someone else their thoughts. I will check out your idea. Thanks again. We don't want to loose our car..... she is part of the family.....we have had her more than 21 years and has been a faithful work-horse.
Hi we had a similar problem with our Subaru Legacy. Fixed by replacing friction discs in the centre diferential.
@@ericchapman399 Thanks I look into this...... glad it worked for you.
Thanks for the feedback.... I will check that out & reply if it goes well
What about a filter?
Hello, great video. Can you come up with a way to flush the coolant on a Subaru Impreza, preferably a 2017-19 base . Lots of guys are pulling the lower hose And removing the thermostat. I would like to see a system where fluid is evacuated as distilled water is pumped in . Maybe utilizing a block plug to drain or the peacock valve .. let us know !!!!
The only Subaru I own is this forester, but I am considering a coolant change/flush in the near future.
there's actually a much easier way way easier than you're doing it to put the transmission fluid back into the Subaru Forester and all's you have to do is open the hood and look for the heat exchanger for the transmission cooler remove one of the hoses preferably the return line hose and just fill it from that way using your old pump that you have you can fill up the whole tire Reservoir with the Seven Courts cuz usually it takes 7 not really any less than that and just fill it from the return line on the heat exchanger the easiest way to feel it and a lot faster
A person would still want to drain and fill the pan first to allow the system to draw in fresh fluid only. You still have to monitor the level of fresh fluid in the pan or you risk running the pan dry the only way to do that is keep the fill plug out and watch for overflow. Notice how he had to wait for like 20 seconds to catch up? The car is drawing way faster than the pump.
If you pump into the return line vs directly into the pan what would you be gaining? I don't see any advantage.
I thought this voided the warranty in the Subaru CVT
This car is out of warranty, but if you are referring to using aftermarket CVT fluid, Subaru cannot legally void the warranty for use of aftermarket fluid.
Anybody running the PENTOSIN CVT1 fluid that Rock Auto sells? It meets Subaru spec and RA is a reputable parts supplier. Want to do this or at least a filter/fluid change.
PENTOSIN CVT1 is a premium quality, fully synthetic fluid made in Germany. Fully compatible with the CVT TR580 variant.
How many miles does the car have now?
Wow that fluid is dirty as hell. I wonder if i should change mine? I have 66,000 miles on my 2014. Did your CVT hesitate or shudder before doing this?
The CVT has never felt ideal, I'm not really a fan of them, but it's tough to find a normal automatic transmission these days.
I'd wait until you're out of warranty before touching it. My lab results showed the fluid was still ok (but they said it was good I changed it out at 100k). Under normal basic usage, 100k is a good time to do it. If you're off-roading, towing, lead foot, etc you should consider at least every 50k
Is the outlet hose same as 2012 impreza?
We have a 2014 Impreza with CVT. Would I be safe with 3 gallons or definitely get 5 gallons if we want to tackle this. Thanks!
The TR580
transmission in this video was put in these vehicles:
2012-17 Legacy/Outback 2.5L NA
2012-17 Impreza 2.0L NA
2013-15 Crosstrek 2.0L NA
2014-2017 Forester 2.5L NA
So as long as your car is the naturally aspirated 2.0L Impreza you should be fine.
Edit: 3 gallons is probably enough for a light flush, but you would probably be better off with 4.
wrong flat side down toward drain bolt...
what was the miliage?
how is the Amsoil performing for you? My gf just picked up a used Impreza and I want to change all the fluids before she starts driving it regularly.
80,000 miles no issues
@@max-weber thank you sir
I was going over you video again . Definitely best flush out there . Question why didn’t you drop the transmission pan and change the filter? Does the tr580 have an internal filter? Did you ever consider adding an external transmission filter? If so can you recommend one ? Amsoil has one but it’s very costly. B and m has one but reviews were mixed . Any info would be helpful.. again that flush. Is the best system out there👍 look forward to see how you handle the coolant flush !!!
You are correct about the filter being deep inside the transmission. You would have to tear down the transmission to get to it. There is a strainer that you could replace in the pan, but generally there shouldn't be enough material in the system to need to do it (especially if you do this flush). The pan uses a liquid gasket, I chose not to drop the pan for that reason, but if you're comfortable re-sealing the pan with liquid gasket (added cost, time, potential for leaks) then that would be a good way to get even more of the old fluid out before the flush.
@@max-weber Do you have to use a liquid gasket to seal it back up or could you just use a rubber gasket?
@@sirtimatbob there is no oem gasket available for the tr580 in the US. so its a liquid gasket ir third party
How often should CVT fluid be changed? Thanks for the video
Joe Johnson thank you for your reply.
@@davidooch for my forester 60ooo miles
Hi dear, that transmisión, it has not filter? Sheers! From Chile.
The filter for this transmission is deep inside. It would require complete disassembly of the transmission to replace!
You said the car was at 100000 miles. Was that the fist time the trans fluid was changed ?? I believe Subaru suggest it be changed every 30 000 km ?????
45,000 km if you practice extreme driving, use a trailer, live in a very hot climate or climb constantly through mountain passes.
@@elsocio666 in general every 2-4 years
My 2014 crosstrek says 100,00KM/60 months which is 5 years i think. I followed the year this time since it's the first cvt fluid change. Also Subaru was known for weak CVT
is there anywhere that i could find the written procedure/ instructions for doing this?
There is no procedure in the factory service manual for a transmission flush. They have a writeup for a drain and fill though. If you google "subaru forester factory service manual" you should find a place to get it. Most service shops will hook into the cooler lines to flush a transmission, which is what the subaru specialist in my area does.
good video - how much oil did you change in total? how many quarts?
Any update on how the car is doing with the Amsoil fluid? Anything you'd do different if you had 20/20 hindsight?
40,000 miles on the new fluid with no issues.
It looks like there are aftermarket gaskets for the transmission pan since I last made this video. I might have tried dropping the pan if there was a gasket available when I made this video.
Thanks for the video. I see that you’re not using Subaru oem but amsoil. How is it working so far? And also, what about valvoline max life multi vehicle atf which claims to work for Subaru cvt also?
Amsoil is best will go for 50k in between changes and valvoline is good as in it works with subaru but it's like a general cvt it can handle heat etc so it's good but suggest 30k changes as for branded I feel there is better stuff out there now like amsoil ... to the point these branded companies pay to put there name on others products
@@justtim682 30k miles or km? Thanks much for the advice, appreciate it 🙏🏼
@kristalsify miles not km.
Filter?
Can you tell me where you got the factory service manual? Can you send it as a pdf?
sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU
Amsoil is trying to sell CVT fluid, of course theyre going to say it's comparable.
That's not a chanse I'm willing to take.
You only can exchange maybe 40% of the fluid at a time, mixing different fluids is asking for trouble, IMO.
The opinion of experts in the field of automatic transmissions differs as to their analysis. The proportion of the new fluid is greater than 80 percent. The internal hydraulic pump of the CVT transmission always transfers the oil back through the return line through all the internal mechanisms and elements in a closed circuit. The only thing missing from Max's procedure was removing the pan, cleaning the magnet, and replacing the strainer filter.
Redline, Pentosin, Ravenol, Liquimoly, among others, make premium NS-2 cvt fluids compatible with this transmission.
It's up to you whether to continue with dirty, oxidized oil in your transmission or to have regular maintenance.
I change it every 35 - 40,000 miles, but with Subaru fluid.
hows it going since the fluid change? any noticeable differences? everything good
Everything's going fine. About 35k miles with no issue
Nice job! Can i do this on TR690 cvt? TR690 has bottom solenoid valve placement, so i am not quite sure.
The procedure should be the same, except the check/fill plug will be in a different location. I believe the check/fill plug is rearward instead of on the side.
Max Weber Thank you very much. I was a bit afraid, that oil from cooler goes straight to the solenoid valves, and air somehow could damage them.
The cooler lines are going to be differently oriented too. You might only be able to do a drain and fill with the TR690, or you might have to pump directly into the return line to avoid the issue you describe. I believe the TR580 has the valve body up top, the TR690 (Gen 1) valve body is down low. Here's the Factory Manual for the 2015 Forester that has the TR580 and TR690 information (I don't have it downloaded on this computer)
download857.mediafire.com/kq1ukq5j24og/kdetjvwea35kmw3/USDM+Forester+FSM+2015.zip
Great video and discussion. Can not thank you enough. I have a 2015 WRX with a Tr690. At 46k miles, my subi dealer recommended me to replace my cvtf and strainer while I had to replace a leaking oil seal on my front diff. Unfortunately I later learned that the dealership used the Motul Multi CVTF and not the Subi genuine High Torque Cvtf. While the Motul tech data sheet mentioned compatibility with a tr690…,When pushing the car thereafter, I ve noticed a chain slippage for the 1st time ever. Now am driving my subi like a Toyota yaris and it sucks big time. To mention that the Subi dealer did just a drain and fill with 9 Liters out of the total 12.5liters. Do you think your flushing technic will work in my case? Or will I have to do an expensive 2 drain and fill to get rid of as much as possible of that Motul Multi?