Despite what some of the comments below say, it's no use replacing the stringer or adding another one until the hull is repaired on the outside, and inside if necessary. Then assuming the old stringer is removed for repair, prepare hull and fit new stringer. Bear in mind the wood used in stringers is not always for strength but to actually make a form for the GRP. Even though the wood may be rotten it doesn't mean there is a weakness in that area of the hull, as the GRP wrapping the wood will have added strength. Maybe it got cracked by an overtightened cradle pad.
Milliput is great for sealing leaks, it sets under water. If the stringer is glassed in then the GRP provides most of strength and the wood is there as a form for the GRP. The wood in the stringer is redundant to a degree. If your boat was wooden it would leak a lot more, this doesn't look like a major worry.
I reckon that the box section left by the stringer is a large part of the strength anyway. I would take some cores of the stringer to assess condition and extent. Worst case scenario, beach yourself on a falling spring tide and you have several days to do any work required. You might use a sink plunger from the outside to apply pressure and look for bubbles. It’s a bit of a bugger certainly but not a show stopper.
Totally agree the wood stringer is just a former basically. When you come to investigate and if you need to replace you could just remove the inner face, remove wood and dry/clean then replace with foam before glassing right over the lot. Shame you sent the legs north they could have been useful. As for IOW, mooring won’t be cheap there and it gets very busy coming into the season. Chichester harbour has many protected anchorages and the harbour board may be able to fix you up with a temporary mooring. There are drying out piles at Itchenor and Emsworth if you need to investigate the leak. As for Channel Islands, that is a tricky place to sail, very strong tides, lots of rocks and hazards and again expensive to moor. The East Coast may be better from a cost perspective, lots of estuaries and boatyards to choose from. Best of luck, Andy UK
Cheers Andy. I'm planning on being at anchor only, to avoid fees. Might have to go in once a week to charge the battery or something. I've got it in my head that I want to go to sark, as its where the boat is registered. I'm going to change it, so it'll be nice for her to go home first 😂
A friend and I had a 50+ year old wooden dingy we sailed for a summer. It was dry rotted all to hell (my friend bought it). Another guy we knew from work let us keep it on their lake property. We sailed the boat to their property and it was leaking like a sieve. We were bailing or we wouldn't have made it the couple hundred yards, lol. It basically sank in the shallows along their shoreline. When we wanted to sail, we'd bail it out 'til it floated. The wood had swelled up until the leaking was (a little) less. We sailed just fine. When the water got more than ankle deep, we'd bail and keep sailing. Our feet we're never dry when we sailed. There was always at least 2 to 3 inches of water. Of course, shore was never that far away. Different story if we'd had to go too far from land.
I might be wrong but most of strength is not the wood stringer itself but the tophat section of the Grp moulded over it . Might put your mind at ease a bit 🤞
@@BumblingSailor also be unusual for osmosis to be that bad to cause a leak plus these old boats are very thickly laid up . No drying posts or slipways you could dry out at between tides anywhere local?
I've got a set of beaching legs that I've literally just sent up north yesterday. 🙄. I've no engine at the moment, but I'll keep it in mind in the future.
Older boats like ours are pretty bulletproof. With a really slow leak like that, she'll be fine to sail for a good while yet. When we were docked up in Canada during the winter, condensation made the boat really wet inside. We stuck foam camping mats up everywhere above the waterline, that helped a lot. Condensation below the water line isnt really a problem and can act as a kind of cabin dehumidification.
Is there a possibility that it's salt that's been there for ages? Once in the boat it is left behind by evaporation and could then disolve again in fresh water leaks or condensation. This is how I often fix things, just come up with a theory that deletes the problem....
Forget the channel islands,lots of rocks and tides of 12 metres running at 12 knots,there are anchorages but it's definitely not for a novice. Also,don't leave if you or the boat aren't ready,I was always told 'don't sail to a timetable' that's when mistakes/accidents happen. Have you considered getting a temporary job for a couple of months? Would pay the moorings and put something in the bank,would also mean your trip home is in summer,a lot easier.
I'm hoping she'll be ready, if not I'll hang on. I think I might have sorted a mooring in skippool, but I'll have to wait and see. That'll mean I can head straight up there. I looked around at some jobs but I'd rather try and make a run for it 😂
Hey if you`re set on sailing the boat like this you might as well use some underwater epoxy to glue thin marine plywood to the outside of the hull where the leak is. If it stops the leak you can take out the stringer and make a temporary repair from the inside. It`s a temporary solution and it would be ugly but it`s a lot safer then sailing with a compromised hull.
Dry out the best you can. Fit a bilge alarm or electric pump. Go out sailing but bring a mate (alone you won't be able to pump and steer if it comes to it). Hopefully you will soon get to bottom of the leak while on the water. Summer is just around the corner.
Where you have a drying mooring the sea water on the hull gets drawn in along the glass fibres and the resin. As it dries out the salt crystalises and pushes the fibres and resin apart. This can create small areas of porosity and weakness. Nobody checks for this during surveys - except when they use the bìg hamerometer. Tomorrow morning, after breakfast, give the hull a good tapping. Most of all - don't worry. Your boat has been bobbing up and down for half a century.
It's a weird problem, but I think you will chase it down. It is a pity you did not scrape all the old antifouling off. It is very easy to do, and then you get to inspect the gelcoat. Any lockers that have a low point need a small drain to allow water, condensate or other, to get to the bilge. A Dremel is a great tool to do this, and when the wood is dried you can epoxy coat the drain hole. I will follow your further research, but I think you will nail it.
It does, until you don't have a thousand. Then it stands for bring out another course of ignoring stuff. I'll get by in my boacois, it sounds French and posh 😂
Sometimes when a boat is lifted into the water after being ashore, water that’s in a compartment that you couldn’t see will flow to a separate area of the boat that you can see. I’ve never heard of a boat leaking through osmosis, so may not be a as bad as you fear. Think I would also check the bilge pump and diaphragm as that could be a cause. Good luck and thanks for posting.
Boats can and do leak from osmosis it takes a lot check out my contessa. But I don’t think this is osmosis he would have seen major blistering on the outside.
Here's hoping that the stringer has still got the structural integrity for you to do what my grandfather (rather annoyingly) referred to as 'Make Do & Mend'... It's not as though it's a carbon fibre suspension strut that's only produced by for the Bugatti Veyron and costs an arm. leg and bollocks to fit. There will be a way, and you'll find a way to do it practically if you have time on your side. Remember this. Most negative boat advice comes from those who work Monday to Friday, 9.00 to 17.00...The doers find a way. I've enjoyed your videos from start to finish. Compliments to the entire production crew and hats off to your editors from PInewood.
Don't sweat it. add 2 stringers one of top of the old, one beneath. Glass them in and later rip the damaged one out once the time is right later this season. There is some high density foam that can be used for stringers if I remember correctly.
Nice! After finding the salt marks in the cupboard above the stringer, I'm fairly confident that it's above it. I might drill holes along the stringer to see if it's wet inside, or is that stupid? 😂
@@BumblingSailor oh, don't be drilling holes in there. i'm sure you're not made of money. there's only so many cans of worms you can open at one mealtime.
I agree with this idea. When and if you replace the bad stringer, the boat will maintain it's shape and strength. It's all part of owning a boat. Ignore the negative comments and relax a bit, It will work out. Take your time and don't panic! good luck
Don't panic! .. those boats were strong .. I'm not convinced that the 'stringer' is that important to the integrity or strength of the hull - it may even be there simply to facilitate the building of the lockers / benches etc .. Now then ... if water is in the stringer .. then it, could be tracking from anywhere along its length .. just thoughts .. i say this as it happened to me once - the 'hole' was miles away from the multiple pinholes in the slightly poor and light layup used to bond the wood core .. (Perhaps in time, it would be good to check from outside that there hasn't been some damage and a possible poor repair - but I'm not sure that it's urgent) .. Somehow, I don't feel like the boat is going to break up underneath you .. Press on .. Love you and your channel .. 👍
I wouldnt worry about that, if you struggle to see where its coming from it isnt much but what i would do is when the tide goes out have a look where you think it could be and just see if anything pops out at you, ive seen much worse, my mate had a wooden boat over here and i used to be with him when it was launched the old way of sliding down the ramp and on hitting the water we had bags of sawdust to chuck in the water where we thought it was leaking as the wood shrank when out for the winter, it worked everytime!
Best of luck with the leak. Hope it isn’t anything too major. I am looking forward to seeing your travels, and wish you many safe and fun voyages with your boat.
YOU GOT THIS MATE! I'm on the hard refitting my new (to me) boat living like a bum. Your videos give me fuel to keep working through all the issues. We'll get through this.
Keep it under observation , sometimes when a boat is on dry land it warps slightly and as it is put back in the water warps back to shape again causing little leaks to appear but then settles down again , did you notice it before ? as it may have been like it some time and you are just getting paranoid about it or the water was up one end when on dry land and once back in with the boat in a different angle it flows out of where it was hiding , could be just your bilge pump leaking or skin fitting needing sealing with water trickling down the outside of the pipe and dripping down into that space. but don't worry you will sort it out in your calm down to earth way 🙂
I can't see that stringer being structural to be honest. My boat has them too and they are just put in for the cupboards to screw too. I also have a leak that gathers on my lower stringer for the base of my seat. Took ages to find the leak, it was waste water from my sink. Don't worry about it too much. Go sailing to Isle of Wight, see if you can lean against a harbour wall for next to nothing or free. Check out the hull for any damage.
@The Bumbling Sailor yes I still not fixed the leak in 5 years! It's only tighten up a jubilee clip or reseal the waste fitting on the bowl of the sink. I always seem to forget. Hey maybe in a couple of weeks time 😀
No point setting out with a nagging worry on your mind. You might try finding someone to send up the mast, tie a stout line at or near the top, run the other end down the dock a slip or three and pull her over to get the affected area clear of the water. Have done thru-hulls with that method in a pinch. Word of caution if you do it... make sure some other boat owner does not untie the line because he doesn't want to duck under it when he makes his yearly visit to his neglected boat!! Don't ask me how I know of this hazard.
Also, this stuff sets underwater. Its not pretty, but can come in handy for those unexpected hull leaks one hopes to never experience. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018RQTHC0/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=sailingsaoirs-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B018RQTHC0&linkId=bb4751b694de67528518aaab12edc3d1 Again, don't ask, A most embarrassing occurrence!
I'd be v surprised if it was a compromised hull. Isn't it likely to be a chain plate or window leaking? Could still be condensation, particularly at this time of year where the temp differential is high and when Ur spending a fair bit of time on board. I've had the same on mine. Took the cupboard panels off. Packed out the back of the cupboards with expanded polystyrene wrapped in cling film. Helped a lot. I think the jib track might also be leaking a little. One thing at a time 😂 I personally would not paint everything black. You need to find out what is going on. Then whack in some white masonry paint. Will last for years. The wood in the stringer is not as structural as the glass that is wrapped around it. It is possible previous owners have drilled into it from top, letting pooling water soak in, which can rot it. But honestly, I would not be worried about hull strength unless all the bulkheads were coming away from the walls. Find the leak!
@@BumblingSailor . Yeah. I'm not there so you be the judge. But the boat is bound to have had waves over the deck etc. Or been heeled over and had it slosh up the sides at some point. If the hull was knackered there would be visible damage. I just think you would have seen it.
Also get yourself a couple of goodsize anchors and chain and put your own moorings in wont have to pay anyone anything then.......after buying ground tackle that is
That's high enough it looks like it was bumped into the dock a little too hard. You may actually be able to see the crack at low tide if the antifouling hasn't filled the crack in too much. If it were "seepage" it should be in a lot more than one place and you would have had very clear signs of blistering. "Fixing it between tides" would be quite a time sensitive task considering it is below the waterline...
I would be confident the wood will be ok as it is a salt water leak. wood does not rot with salt water but does in fresh water. If you heal the boat over by pushing the boom out to the opposite side of the leak & using either the main halyard or topping lift if it is strong enough to pull on the dock to lean the boat over enough till the leak comes out of the water & you can inspect the area. sounds like a very small hole so just sand the area to give it a key clean with a little acetone or meths & fill using some epoxy (kneed it or JB weld fast set type) that will cure it till you haul your boat next time.
I've just had a look on the outside and can't see anything obvious. I'm fairly confident that it's above the stringer after finding those salt marks. I'll figure something out.
It is a hard thing to get your head round where water comes in. I dont know if you could put tape along the inside of the hull at different levels and add a sort of gutter to each one. That way you might be able to fin the level the water enters. Its a slow thing so you have time to work it out. Keep at it 👍👍
Hi mate, could you investigate the problem at low tide? If you can have the stringer back in place before the tide turns again? If you prep everything before hand to make it as quick as possible?
After finding that the wood had salt stains on at the end, I reckon it's above the stringer now, and was running along the top of it. I reckon I might drill the stringer every foot and see if it's wet. It'll be easy to plug the holes back up. The epoxy curing time would be the issue between tides I think, unfortunately.
@@BumblingSailor Don't waste any kind of resin on anything wet. At best you will just seal moisture in where you don't want it. It takes a while to dry stuff out. You have no urgency, as you have already realised. Keep on researching and forming ideas for the solution. You will beat the issue.
Don't panic! So long as you have your towel... it's common to put paper towel down to find a leak. For bigger holes like your thumbnail I've seen people use shower towels and epoxy them in place. F
If you haven’t already looked do you have any decent video footage of that port side from when you cleaned the hull just before painting it? On a positive note if it’s been salt water getting in behind the stringer long term and just fresh water while in your mud berth it’s less likely to be rotten - if fresh water though........
honestly dont think its a biggie. monitor your leak, choose the weather, dont sail the boat too hard. Once at home, haul out and replace everything, i would even extend what you call stringer, from bulkhead to bulkead , always observing what you might have planned for the interior design )its not a problem if you have to interrupt the stringer but its advisable to make ends meet even with deviations). I have a 62 yo VdS Pioneer 9, having stringers or their equivalent longitudinal reinforcements are needed and put to use , also when you haul out and the part of the boatºd weight is being applied onto the jackstands, creating hard spots. my hull is solid grp, not particularly thick, and iºve either replaced like for like of glassed the cabinetry close by. at a minumum i use 2 layers of biaxial cloth 400gr/m2 and epoxy in all corners and if its a big area i will further reinforce it with at least one more layer of cloth. i know you are on a budget but some items i would consider 3 and 6mm thick pieces of G10 to reinforce. it will never rot and will outlive you and the boat. not cheap but you wont have, ever, to worry about it.
Now when I started following you I had the impression you really were clueless, but you're definitely not, you know quite a bit about boats. And that means its gonna be all good. What happened with the engine mounts? If you get up the Welsh coast we'll sail out and give you some company!
The new steel plates are in, with the new mounts attached. Just gonna service some bits on the engine whilst it's in the cockpit, and I'll be mobile again!
oh dear that's not good news I hope it's not too bad I know you will be able to repair it you either need to beach her and do the repair or spend more money getting her lifted out again and doing the repair its a big decision to make terry but one thing it's only weeping it's not enough to fill the bilge the only thing you have to worry about is going out to sea and the extra stress it will put on the hull in bad weather or choppy seas flexing the hull so it's going to be a big chance to take taking her out in that condition it might be ideal to get a pro hull inspector to check your hull and see what he or she said but it's more money which you haven't got trust me if I had any spare I would give you some but I am on fixed income barley eating all the bills coming in having my son to sub me so I know whats it likes to be skint as I am retired early through ill health but I am still able to get around its just a bad back and neck through heavy lifting all the years as a mechanic but I can still build engines and do jobs on my sons cars for him and I am training him as well at the same time which he enjoys so all the best I hope you solve the water leaking problem soon mate from John from Rugby UK.
You havnt got a cracked hull, you’d have seen it, leak from a deck fitting somewhere has moved water into a different locker now she’s floating. That stringer will be full of condensation a lot are. It will be full of foam not wood. Stuck a 10mm drill bit into the lowest part, it prob runs the whole length of the boat. Hole will slow it to drain. Email the youthbe guy off refit and sail, he’s an expert on contessas and sure he would offer expert advice and opinion.
You have a ton of very good co0mments here. I would ask, is there any chance the boat has been water logged the last time she was afloat? I ask as I brought an old boat which we restored and had an issue where it had been water logged for some time before being pulled out the water. We found the wood had absorbed so much moisture it never stopped trickling so had to replace the wood. Try not to get to disheartened. As for not being able to stay there. Look around there are a large number of anchorages you can stay in for free, Jennycliffe and Cawsands being two here in Plymouth.
The only thing I heard in this video was Channel Islands! YES! Get here, IMMEDIATELY! I mean it won't solve any of your problems, but regardless. In all seriousness... That's not a leak. You wait till I get to my leaky leaky videos, with their rust ridden bilges and stained/rotten bulkheads 😂🤦
Hello, right, It's not probably not coming from the hull, you would have seen a crack when you were painting, but did you see the gel coat bubbling? small bubbles throughout when new is called porosity, (but its not that, cause that's when new) bubbles on the outside is osmosis, now tha'ts quite common, but can be fixed by drying out and filling with gel, or, grinding out and filling with gel ,,(NEXT LIFT OUT),,,,do not panic ! ,,,its common, and the signs are ,,,,the boat not quite drying out internally, YOU ARE PROBABLY JUST DRYING OUT, MORE THAN LIKELY ITS COMMING FROM THE DECK / HULL JOINT, DO NOT LIFT IT OUT AGAIN, Drill a hole in the bottom edge of the stringer to let it drain and dry, (the boats been sitting for a couple of years) then use gel and a wee patch of glass to seal it, (a wee tin of the car stuff would do to save buying a load) cheers john
@@BumblingSailor Sorry, id never forgive myself if you drilled a hole through the hull, (my dad did it once on an inland lake, no low tide) it did have to come out !
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF! You should just go ahead and paint your whole boat with that gorilla glue paint. 👍😉
Sorry to be a pessimist but..... if the hull is leaking the glassfibre might be delaminated thus rendering it very weak. The only way is rather time consuming and relatively expensive. Lift the boat out, grind back all the suspect area and dry thoroughly before laying up with glassfibre and resin. Sorry to be so depressing but I do speak from experience. I worked in a boatyard where a boat was condemned due to delamination. I was tasked to drill holes in the suspected areas. We were bought a new hull and stripped the original hull to place all the fixtures and fittings into the new hull. Sorry.
Is delamination an issue with solid fibreglass? For some reason I thought it was on cored boats, forgive my ignorance. She's coming out of the water in a few months so I'm going to sort all the blisters out and take the gel coat off anyway. Guess I'll find out then! 😂
Delamination can be an issue but far less likely on an old boat which where built like brick out houses cos they were still learning about GRP tolerances so over built. There is a lot I'd be checking before getting the angle grinder out. Leaking window, chain plate, hatch trim. Condensation can build up behind cupboards . More than you might think. Water ingress a much bigger issue with sandwich construction, where the core can rot out, but not an issue here. I'd be pulling out the cupboard fronts. They need drying out and resealing anyway or will fall apart. Then you can see more. Try the talcum powder trick to see if you can spot runs. Get a mate to spray water onto chain plates, jib tracks, windows and hatches to see if you can spot drips. It's always possible the hull has been hit hard and is wicking water in, but I think you would probably see evidence of that. Maybe dry boat up against some pilings and sand back the anti fouling in the suspect area. But it is far more likely to be a topsides leak.
@@BumblingSailor Delamination can be caused by impact or poor layup practice with the fibreglass laminates. Although most older boats were built like tanks the problem is not unknown. This problem will cause weakness to the monocoque integrity of the hull. It is not the exclusive area of sandwich construction. I agree entirely with directorstu's post. Good luck!
Hey just finished watching all your videos, Luv um !! great watch 👍 if you get chance to stop off in Plymouth on your way back, give me an inbox and I'll buy ya a pint & a pasty, looking forward to more of your videos, keep going !! from a salty janner 💪👍💨⛵️
Visit channels: Boat Works Today, Sail Life - his early videos, and Parlay Revival - his early videos. These channels will teach you everything you need to know about repairing boats. I would start with Parlay Revival. He shows how to grind out and locate damage. How soft is the mud around your boat during low tide? You might be able to make your repairs then? Channel SV Sea Rambler might be of interest to you. Since you didn't notice any obvious damage when you were painting, your problem might be osmosis related?
do you have any friends who sail there or near where you are? your brain is active and logical which is generally a good thing., but i believe you are over-thinking. get a pal who knows his way around a small keel sailboat like yours, AND TAKE IT OUT! thrash it around! see what's going on. you might me surprised. don't even THINK about making passage. just beat around your area...what they call a shakedown. i've had many sailboats, all of them between 23 and 27 foot. they're tougher than you think. don't torment yourself into overcaution. replace that imagination with a little healthy experience. i've embarrassed myself plenty of times. haven't died that many times...
Despite what some of the comments below say, it's no use replacing the stringer or adding another one until the hull is repaired on the outside, and inside if necessary. Then assuming the old stringer is removed for repair, prepare hull and fit new stringer. Bear in mind the wood used in stringers is not always for strength but to actually make a form for the GRP. Even though the wood may be rotten it doesn't mean there is a weakness in that area of the hull, as the GRP wrapping the wood will have added strength. Maybe it got cracked by an overtightened cradle pad.
Hmmm, it's in exactly the same position that I had all the problems with the cradle leg. I'll look into that, thanks!
More than likely
“May the air be clear, your sail smooth, and the sky blue, this town has no escalators, I like cake, Time flies like rabbits on Fire, use it wisely?
I'll try! 😂
Try not to let it get you down. It’s just another sailing challenge to solve. I’m confident you’ll end up bumbling your way through 😅👍
Aye, I'll get there... Wherever there is... 😂
Milliput is great for sealing leaks, it sets under water. If the stringer is glassed in then the GRP provides most of strength and the wood is there as a form for the GRP. The wood in the stringer is redundant to a degree. If your boat was wooden it would leak a lot more, this doesn't look like a major worry.
That seems to be the consensus! Feeling much better about it 😂
I reckon that the box section left by the stringer is a large part of the strength anyway. I would take some cores of the stringer to assess condition and extent. Worst case scenario, beach yourself on a falling spring tide and you have several days to do any work required. You might use a sink plunger from the outside to apply pressure and look for bubbles. It’s a bit of a bugger certainly but not a show stopper.
Thank you!
Soon the weather will be nice. And when sailing to the tropical Isle of Wight, you won’t be thinking about your leaky stringers 😂
😂😂😂 It's already out of my mind. Apparently its eff all to worry about. I was only gonna pretend it didn't exist anyway 😂
@@BumblingSailor You've got a dribble, Mark hasn't got any windows !!
if you have a hole letting water in, the thing i do is to make another one for it to drain out.
Excellent! I'll get me drill 😂
Totally agree the wood stringer is just a former basically. When you come to investigate and if you need to replace you could just remove the inner face, remove wood and dry/clean then replace with foam before glassing right over the lot. Shame you sent the legs north they could have been useful. As for IOW, mooring won’t be cheap there and it gets very busy coming into the season. Chichester harbour has many protected anchorages and the harbour board may be able to fix you up with a temporary mooring. There are drying out piles at Itchenor and Emsworth if you need to investigate the leak. As for Channel Islands, that is a tricky place to sail, very strong tides, lots of rocks and hazards and again expensive to moor. The East Coast may be better from a cost perspective, lots of estuaries and boatyards to choose from. Best of luck, Andy UK
Cheers Andy. I'm planning on being at anchor only, to avoid fees. Might have to go in once a week to charge the battery or something. I've got it in my head that I want to go to sark, as its where the boat is registered. I'm going to change it, so it'll be nice for her to go home first 😂
from my Day Skipper instructor "Osmosis has never sank a boat" it'll be rightttt
Yeah, I'm of the same opinion. It'll be reet.
A friend and I had a 50+ year old wooden dingy we sailed for a summer. It was dry rotted all to hell (my friend bought it). Another guy we knew from work let us keep it on their lake property. We sailed the boat to their property and it was leaking like a sieve. We were bailing or we wouldn't have made it the couple hundred yards, lol. It basically sank in the shallows along their shoreline.
When we wanted to sail, we'd bail it out 'til it floated. The wood had swelled up until the leaking was (a little) less. We sailed just fine. When the water got more than ankle deep, we'd bail and keep sailing. Our feet we're never dry when we sailed. There was always at least 2 to 3 inches of water. Of course, shore was never that far away. Different story if we'd had to go too far from land.
😂😂 Sounds like a proper adventure!
I might be wrong but most of strength is not the wood stringer itself but the tophat section of the Grp moulded over it .
Might put your mind at ease a bit 🤞
Certainly does! Thanks!
@@BumblingSailor also be unusual for osmosis to be that bad to cause a leak plus these old boats are very thickly laid up .
No drying posts or slipways you could dry out at between tides anywhere local?
I've got a set of beaching legs that I've literally just sent up north yesterday. 🙄. I've no engine at the moment, but I'll keep it in mind in the future.
Older boats like ours are pretty bulletproof. With a really slow leak like that, she'll be fine to sail for a good while yet. When we were docked up in Canada during the winter, condensation made the boat really wet inside. We stuck foam camping mats up everywhere above the waterline, that helped a lot. Condensation below the water line isnt really a problem and can act as a kind of cabin dehumidification.
Good to know! Thanks. Not all doom and gloom then!
Is there a possibility that it's salt that's been there for ages? Once in the boat it is left behind by evaporation and could then disolve again in fresh water leaks or condensation. This is how I often fix things, just come up with a theory that deletes the problem....
😂😂😂😂 That sounds like a wonderful idea, I'm running with it! 😂
Problems give the oppertunity for solutions .
Definitely!
I’m keeping tuned on the outcome to this rotten issue.
😂 Thanks
Forget the channel islands,lots of rocks and tides of 12 metres running at 12 knots,there are anchorages but it's definitely not for a novice. Also,don't leave if you or the boat aren't ready,I was always told 'don't sail to a timetable' that's when mistakes/accidents happen. Have you considered getting a temporary job for a couple of months? Would pay the moorings and put something in the bank,would also mean your trip home is in summer,a lot easier.
I'm hoping she'll be ready, if not I'll hang on. I think I might have sorted a mooring in skippool, but I'll have to wait and see. That'll mean I can head straight up there. I looked around at some jobs but I'd rather try and make a run for it 😂
Hey if you`re set on sailing the boat like this you might as well use some underwater epoxy to glue thin marine plywood to the outside of the hull where the leak is. If it stops the leak you can take out the stringer and make a temporary repair from the inside. It`s a temporary solution and it would be ugly but it`s a lot safer then sailing with a compromised hull.
I don't think it's serious enough to warrant it. From the advice I've had, it'll be reet. Thanks for the info though!
Never forget it’s your dream boat!
Oh, I haven't!
dont give up mate 🤞 rooting for you. you'll be fine.
UA-cam reckons it's nothing to worry about, so I'm not 😂
Check around the stantion/ hand rail post and windows famous for leaking, good luck
Cheers, will do!
Dry out the best you can. Fit a bilge alarm or electric pump. Go out sailing but bring a mate (alone you won't be able to pump and steer if it comes to it). Hopefully you will soon get to bottom of the leak while on the water. Summer is just around the corner.
Cheers. I've got an electric pump so should be OK. No mate unfortunately, I'll be flying solo 😂
Where you have a drying mooring the sea water on the hull gets drawn in along the glass fibres and the resin. As it dries out the salt crystalises and pushes the fibres and resin apart. This can create small areas of porosity and weakness. Nobody checks for this during surveys - except when they use the bìg hamerometer. Tomorrow morning, after breakfast, give the hull a good tapping. Most of all - don't worry. Your boat has been bobbing up and down for half a century.
I'm sure she's fine. That's what the general consensus seems to be. Thanks!
Find it, duct tape it. Bosh. Seriously though, you're a very practical man and I'm sure you'll be alright
I'll sort it! (or ignore it, which is basically the same thing).
It's a weird problem, but I think you will chase it down. It is a pity you did not scrape all the old antifouling off. It is very easy to do, and then you get to inspect the gelcoat. Any lockers that have a low point need a small drain to allow water, condensate or other, to get to the bilge. A Dremel is a great tool to do this, and when the wood is dried you can epoxy coat the drain hole.
I will follow your further research, but I think you will nail it.
That's great advice about the drain holes! Thanks!
Boat stands for "Bring out another thousand"
It does, until you don't have a thousand. Then it stands for bring out another course of ignoring stuff. I'll get by in my boacois, it sounds French and posh 😂
@@BumblingSailor I bought a lotto ticket today....if I win il join your Patreon and flick u a fifty.
😂 Thank you!
Good luck with whatever you decide
Thanks!
Sorry fella, sure you'll get it sorted 👍
Cheers!
Sometimes when a boat is lifted into the water after being ashore, water that’s in a compartment that you couldn’t see will flow to a separate area of the boat that you can see. I’ve never heard of a boat leaking through osmosis, so may not be a as bad as you fear. Think I would also check the bilge pump and diaphragm as that could be a cause. Good luck and thanks for posting.
Thanks, I'll look into those!
Boats can and do leak from osmosis it takes a lot check out my contessa. But I don’t think this is osmosis he would have seen major blistering on the outside.
Here's hoping that the stringer has still got the structural integrity for you to do what my grandfather (rather annoyingly) referred to as 'Make Do & Mend'...
It's not as though it's a carbon fibre suspension strut that's only produced by for the Bugatti Veyron and costs an arm. leg and bollocks to fit. There will be a way, and you'll find a way to do it practically if you have time on your side. Remember this. Most negative boat advice comes from those who work Monday to Friday, 9.00 to 17.00...The doers find a way.
I've enjoyed your videos from start to finish. Compliments to the entire production crew and hats off to your editors from PInewood.
😂😂😂😂😂 Thank you!
Don't sweat it. add 2 stringers one of top of the old, one beneath. Glass them in and later rip the damaged one out once the time is right later this season. There is some high density foam that can be used for stringers if I remember correctly.
Nice! After finding the salt marks in the cupboard above the stringer, I'm fairly confident that it's above it. I might drill holes along the stringer to see if it's wet inside, or is that stupid? 😂
@@BumblingSailor Just go for a couple of samples. If it looks like a swiss cheese you might went overboard with the sampling 😂
😂😂😂😂 That's probably more my style to be fair 😂
@@BumblingSailor oh, don't be drilling holes in there. i'm sure you're not made of money. there's only so many cans of worms you can open at one mealtime.
I agree with this idea. When and if you replace the bad stringer, the boat will maintain it's shape and strength. It's all part of owning a boat. Ignore the negative comments and relax a bit, It will work out. Take your time and don't panic! good luck
Don't panic! .. those boats were strong .. I'm not convinced that the 'stringer' is that important to the integrity or strength of the hull - it may even be there simply to facilitate the building of the lockers / benches etc ..
Now then ... if water is in the stringer .. then it, could be tracking from anywhere along its length .. just thoughts .. i say this as it happened to me once - the 'hole' was miles away from the multiple pinholes in the slightly poor and light layup used to bond the wood core ..
(Perhaps in time, it would be good to check from outside that there hasn't been some damage and a possible poor repair - but I'm not sure that it's urgent) ..
Somehow, I don't feel like the boat is going to break up underneath you ..
Press on ..
Love you and your channel ..
👍
Thank you!
Hang in there Terry it's only bad if you need arm bands this is the best boating channel of them all
😂😂😂 I don't quite need them yet, so it'll be reet. Thanks!
Things will work out!
Aye, I'll sort something! Thanks!
I wouldnt worry about that, if you struggle to see where its coming from it isnt much but what i would do is when the tide goes out have a look where you think it could be and just see if anything pops out at you, ive seen much worse, my mate had a wooden boat over here and i used to be with him when it was launched the old way of sliding down the ramp and on hitting the water we had bags of sawdust to chuck in the water where we thought it was leaking as the wood shrank when out for the winter, it worked everytime!
😂😂😂 I'm certainly less worried now.
Best of luck with the leak. Hope it isn’t anything too major.
I am looking forward to seeing your travels, and wish you many safe and fun voyages with your boat.
Thanks Dan! I think the leak is fine, it's definitely fine for now 😂😂😂
YOU GOT THIS MATE! I'm on the hard refitting my new (to me) boat living like a bum. Your videos give me fuel to keep working through all the issues. We'll get through this.
Nice! We definitely will!
I'm sure once you locate where exactly it's coming in it will be an easy fix, best of luck with it 🍀🤞🤞
Cheers!
f
Hey dude I like your content. You remind me of myself a bit. Im hoping to buy a sailboat this season. If you keep posting i'll keep watching
Cheers! I appreciate it!
Keep it under observation , sometimes when a boat is on dry land it warps slightly and as it is put back in the water warps back to shape again causing little leaks to appear but then settles down again , did you notice it before ? as it may have been like it some time and you are just getting paranoid about it or the water was up one end when on dry land and once back in with the boat in a different angle it flows out of where it was hiding , could be just your bilge pump leaking or skin fitting needing sealing with water trickling down the outside of the pipe and dripping down into that space. but don't worry you will sort it out in your calm down to earth way 🙂
Cheers!
Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
I can't see that stringer being structural to be honest. My boat has them too and they are just put in for the cupboards to screw too. I also have a leak that gathers on my lower stringer for the base of my seat. Took ages to find the leak, it was waste water from my sink. Don't worry about it too much. Go sailing to Isle of Wight, see if you can lean against a harbour wall for next to nothing or free. Check out the hull for any damage.
Cheers! Was just concerned as it was saltwater. But, everyone seems to be in agreement, it's not much to worry about. Thank eff for UA-cam 😂
@The Bumbling Sailor yes I still not fixed the leak in 5 years! It's only tighten up a jubilee clip or reseal the waste fitting on the bowl of the sink. I always seem to forget. Hey maybe in a couple of weeks time 😀
@@leefromsvpatchamie8607 😂😂😂 Yeah, maybe...
No point setting out with a nagging worry on your mind. You might try finding someone to send up the mast, tie a stout line at or near the top, run the other end down the dock a slip or three and pull her over to get the affected area clear of the water. Have done thru-hulls with that method in a pinch. Word of caution if you do it... make sure some other boat owner does not untie the line because he doesn't want to duck under it when he makes his yearly visit to his neglected boat!! Don't ask me how I know of this hazard.
Also, this stuff sets underwater. Its not pretty, but can come in handy for those unexpected hull leaks one hopes to never experience.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018RQTHC0/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=sailingsaoirs-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B018RQTHC0&linkId=bb4751b694de67528518aaab12edc3d1 Again, don't ask, A most embarrassing occurrence!
😂😂 Sounds like that was a fun day 😂
I'd be v surprised if it was a compromised hull. Isn't it likely to be a chain plate or window leaking? Could still be condensation, particularly at this time of year where the temp differential is high and when Ur spending a fair bit of time on board. I've had the same on mine. Took the cupboard panels off. Packed out the back of the cupboards with expanded polystyrene wrapped in cling film. Helped a lot. I think the jib track might also be leaking a little. One thing at a time 😂 I personally would not paint everything black. You need to find out what is going on. Then whack in some white masonry paint. Will last for years. The wood in the stringer is not as structural as the glass that is wrapped around it. It is possible previous owners have drilled into it from top, letting pooling water soak in, which can rot it. But honestly, I would not be worried about hull strength unless all the bulkheads were coming away from the walls. Find the leak!
😂 I reckon there's definitely an element of condensation/rainwater, but it's saltwater above the stringer. I'm sure it'll be reet. It'll have to be 😂
@@BumblingSailor . Yeah. I'm not there so you be the judge. But the boat is bound to have had waves over the deck etc. Or been heeled over and had it slosh up the sides at some point. If the hull was knackered there would be visible damage. I just think you would have seen it.
Check the bolts around the rudder pintles they can leak.
Had a look, but they'd drain straight into the bilge. Must be on the side of the Hull. Cheers!
i trust you'll figger it out. Rootin for ya.
Cheers! I'll sort it somehow!
Possibly a setback, but most of us have been there to a greater or lesser extent! I'm in no doubt that you will get this sorted.
Cheers!
Also get yourself a couple of goodsize anchors and chain and put your own moorings in wont have to pay anyone anything then.......after buying ground tackle that is
👍
I'm sure you'll sort it mate! 👍
Cheers!
That's high enough it looks like it was bumped into the dock a little too hard. You may actually be able to see the crack at low tide if the antifouling hasn't filled the crack in too much. If it were "seepage" it should be in a lot more than one place and you would have had very clear signs of blistering. "Fixing it between tides" would be quite a time sensitive task considering it is below the waterline...
Yeah, I doubt I can do anything until she's out of the water. Hopefully she's just taken a hit and it'll be a simple repair.
@@BumblingSailor GRP is easy to repair, but you cannot do it between tides. I do think you will need to be out of the water.
yo you will be ok its just another set back that will harden you up.. It is a pain in the ass for you and i feel your pain. J
Cheers!
I would be confident the wood will be ok as it is a salt water leak. wood does not rot with salt water but does in fresh water. If you heal the boat over by pushing the boom out to the opposite side of the leak & using either the main halyard or topping lift if it is strong enough to pull on the dock to lean the boat over enough till the leak comes out of the water & you can inspect the area. sounds like a very small hole so just sand the area to give it a key clean with a little acetone or meths & fill using some epoxy (kneed it or JB weld fast set type) that will cure it till you haul your boat next time.
Thanks for the info!
When in doubt have another beer Dave lol 😆
😂 Agreed!
Could you check the outside at low tide whilst she is sat in the mud or find a drying/scrubbing post?
I've just had a look on the outside and can't see anything obvious. I'm fairly confident that it's above the stringer after finding those salt marks. I'll figure something out.
It is a hard thing to get your head round where water comes in. I dont know if you could put tape along the inside of the hull at different levels and add a sort of gutter to each one. That way you might be able to fin the level the water enters.
Its a slow thing so you have time to work it out. Keep at it 👍👍
Cheers! I'll keep plugging away. Literally and figuratively 😂
@@BumblingSailor I mean What could possibly go wrong 🤷♂ 🤣 👍
Hi mate, could you investigate the problem at low tide? If you can have the stringer back in place before the tide turns again? If you prep everything before hand to make it as quick as possible?
After finding that the wood had salt stains on at the end, I reckon it's above the stringer now, and was running along the top of it. I reckon I might drill the stringer every foot and see if it's wet. It'll be easy to plug the holes back up. The epoxy curing time would be the issue between tides I think, unfortunately.
@@BumblingSailor Don't waste any kind of resin on anything wet. At best you will just seal moisture in where you don't want it. It takes a while to dry stuff out. You have no urgency, as you have already realised. Keep on researching and forming ideas for the solution. You will beat the issue.
Don't panic! So long as you have your towel... it's common to put paper towel down to find a leak. For bigger holes like your thumbnail I've seen people use shower towels and epoxy them in place.
F
Douglas Adams would be proud!
Feeling bad for you. Keep going, it'll be reet in the end lad.
Certainly will!
If you haven’t already looked do you have any decent video footage of that port side from when you cleaned the hull just before painting it? On a positive note if it’s been salt water getting in behind the stringer long term and just fresh water while in your mud berth it’s less likely to be rotten - if fresh water though........
It's always been sea water luckily. Cheers!
honestly dont think its a biggie. monitor your leak, choose the weather, dont sail the boat too hard.
Once at home, haul out and replace everything, i would even extend what you call stringer, from bulkhead to bulkead , always observing what you might have planned for the interior design )its not a problem if you have to interrupt the stringer but its advisable to make ends meet even with deviations). I have a 62 yo VdS Pioneer 9, having stringers or their equivalent longitudinal reinforcements are needed and put to use , also when you haul out and the part of the boatºd weight is being applied onto the jackstands, creating hard spots. my hull is solid grp, not particularly thick, and iºve either replaced like for like of glassed the cabinetry close by. at a minumum i use 2 layers of biaxial cloth 400gr/m2 and epoxy in all corners and if its a big area i will further reinforce it with at least one more layer of cloth. i know you are on a budget but some items i would consider 3 and 6mm thick pieces of G10 to reinforce. it will never rot and will outlive you and the boat. not cheap but you wont have, ever, to worry about it.
Thanks for the info!
Now when I started following you I had the impression you really were clueless, but you're definitely not, you know quite a bit about boats.
And that means its gonna be all good.
What happened with the engine mounts?
If you get up the Welsh coast we'll sail out and give you some company!
The new steel plates are in, with the new mounts attached. Just gonna service some bits on the engine whilst it's in the cockpit, and I'll be mobile again!
oh dear that's not good news I hope it's not too bad I know you will be able to repair it you either need to beach her and do the repair or spend more money getting her lifted out again and doing the repair its a big decision to make terry but one thing it's only weeping it's not enough to fill the bilge the only thing you have to worry about is going out to sea and the extra stress it will put on the hull in bad weather or choppy seas flexing the hull so it's going to be a big chance to take taking her out in that condition it might be ideal to get a pro hull inspector to check your hull and see what he or she said but it's more money which you haven't got trust me if I had any spare I would give you some but I am on fixed income barley eating all the bills coming in having my son to sub me so I know whats it likes to be skint as I am retired early through ill health but I am still able to get around its just a bad back and neck through heavy lifting all the years as a mechanic but I can still build engines and do jobs on my sons cars for him and I am training him as well at the same time which he enjoys so all the best I hope you solve the water leaking problem soon mate from John from Rugby UK.
👍👍
F. It will be OK.....someone mentioned beaching it and repair.
I'm choosing to practically ignore it instead 😂. For now anyway 😂
Salt water is not as bad a fresh water for making wood rotten.
That's a bonus! 😂.
Dont worry to much about it all boats leak to some extent. Just need to pinpoint it and a bit of epoxy jobs a gooden
Cheers!
You havnt got a cracked hull, you’d have seen it, leak from a deck fitting somewhere has moved water into a different locker now she’s floating. That stringer will be full of condensation a lot are. It will be full of foam not wood. Stuck a 10mm drill bit into the lowest part, it prob runs the whole length of the boat. Hole will slow it to drain.
Email the youthbe guy off refit and sail, he’s an expert on contessas and sure he would offer expert advice and opinion.
Cheers Stephen, I may well do that!
recon you over thinking it. Shape of the glass is the strength nothing else. Drill a decent hole. If you sink I’ll fix it with you
Let me know if I need to book some time off 🤣
You have a ton of very good co0mments here. I would ask, is there any chance the boat has been water logged the last time she was afloat? I ask as I brought an old boat which we restored and had an issue where it had been water logged for some time before being pulled out the water. We found the wood had absorbed so much moisture it never stopped trickling so had to replace the wood.
Try not to get to disheartened. As for not being able to stay there. Look around there are a large number of anchorages you can stay in for free, Jennycliffe and Cawsands being two here in Plymouth.
Cheers, I'll have a look at those. The boat was waterlogged before I bought it, it could well be that!
The only thing I heard in this video was Channel Islands! YES! Get here, IMMEDIATELY! I mean it won't solve any of your problems, but regardless. In all seriousness... That's not a leak. You wait till I get to my leaky leaky videos, with their rust ridden bilges and stained/rotten bulkheads 😂🤦
😂😂😂 Hopefully I'll be over there soonish!
on a different note: look around for farley mowat's THE BOAT WHO WOULDN'T FLOAT. a guy like you. and me.
I'll have a look, thanks!
Hello, right, It's not probably not coming from the hull, you would have seen a crack when you were painting, but did you see the gel coat bubbling? small bubbles throughout when new is called porosity, (but its not that, cause that's when new) bubbles on the outside is osmosis, now tha'ts quite common, but can be fixed by drying out and filling with gel, or, grinding out and filling with gel ,,(NEXT LIFT OUT),,,,do not panic ! ,,,its common, and the signs are ,,,,the boat not quite drying out internally, YOU ARE PROBABLY JUST DRYING OUT, MORE THAN LIKELY ITS COMMING FROM THE DECK / HULL JOINT, DO NOT LIFT IT OUT AGAIN, Drill a hole in the bottom edge of the stringer to let it drain and dry, (the boats been sitting for a couple of years) then use gel and a wee patch of glass to seal it, (a wee tin of the car stuff would do to save buying a load) cheers john
Cheers for the info John!
NOW YOU KNOW WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT,? DRILL UP !! (THROUGH THE STRINGER) DONT DRILL A HOLE IN THE HULL !! IF YOU DO ,STICK A PLUG IN IT
You don't need to shout matey 😂
@@BumblingSailor Sorry, id never forgive myself if you drilled a hole through the hull, (my dad did it once on an inland lake, no low tide) it did have to come out !
@@TheJmccready 😂😂😂 to be fair, it's definitely something I'd end up doing 😂. Thanks!
Don’t stick ya fingers in it 😜
I might end up like the boy and the dam 😂, although I have to find the bloody thing first!
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF! You should just go ahead and paint your whole boat with that gorilla glue paint. 👍😉
I'm going to 😂
Sorry to be a pessimist but..... if the hull is leaking the glassfibre might be delaminated thus rendering it very weak. The only way is rather time consuming and relatively expensive. Lift the boat out, grind back all the suspect area and dry thoroughly before laying up with glassfibre and resin. Sorry to be so depressing but I do speak from experience. I worked in a boatyard where a boat was condemned due to delamination. I was tasked to drill holes in the suspected areas. We were bought a new hull and stripped the original hull to place all the fixtures and fittings into the new hull. Sorry.
Is delamination an issue with solid fibreglass? For some reason I thought it was on cored boats, forgive my ignorance. She's coming out of the water in a few months so I'm going to sort all the blisters out and take the gel coat off anyway. Guess I'll find out then! 😂
Delamination can be an issue but far less likely on an old boat which where built like brick out houses cos they were still learning about GRP tolerances so over built. There is a lot I'd be checking before getting the angle grinder out. Leaking window, chain plate, hatch trim. Condensation can build up behind cupboards . More than you might think. Water ingress a much bigger issue with sandwich construction, where the core can rot out, but not an issue here. I'd be pulling out the cupboard fronts. They need drying out and resealing anyway or will fall apart. Then you can see more. Try the talcum powder trick to see if you can spot runs. Get a mate to spray water onto chain plates, jib tracks, windows and hatches to see if you can spot drips. It's always possible the hull has been hit hard and is wicking water in, but I think you would probably see evidence of that. Maybe dry boat up against some pilings and sand back the anti fouling in the suspect area. But it is far more likely to be a topsides leak.
@@BumblingSailor Delamination can be caused by impact or poor layup practice with the fibreglass laminates. Although most older boats were built like tanks the problem is not unknown. This problem will cause weakness to the monocoque integrity of the hull. It is not the exclusive area of sandwich construction. I agree entirely with directorstu's post. Good luck!
I wish I had some worthwhile practical advice, but as a wise man once said "it'll be reet" 👍
😂😂😂 Definitely!
It’s just another challenge. I am sure you will manege.
Cheers!
How did you get on?
It'll be reet, nothing to worry about.
@@BumblingSailor Grand.
F in L
😂😂😂
Boats. Rule 1. All boats leak.
Rule 2. Rule 1 is always true regardless of how much you paid for it.
😂😂😂 Cheers!
Hey just finished watching all your videos, Luv um !! great watch 👍 if you get chance to stop off in Plymouth on your way back, give me an inbox and I'll buy ya a pint & a pasty, looking forward to more of your videos, keep going !! from a salty janner 💪👍💨⛵️
Nice! I may stop off around Chichester, or maybe Plymouth. Not decided yet, but I'll let you know! Cheers.
Inject epoxy into it until you can address it properly.
I'm erring on the side of caution, and doing nothing 😂
Fiberglass it
👍
F
😂😂😂
F 4 u. GL
Ta 😂
Visit channels: Boat Works Today, Sail Life - his early videos, and Parlay Revival - his early videos. These channels will teach you everything you need to know about repairing boats. I would start with Parlay Revival. He shows how to grind out and locate damage. How soft is the mud around your boat during low tide? You might be able to make your repairs then? Channel SV Sea Rambler might be of interest to you. Since you didn't notice any obvious damage when you were painting, your problem might be osmosis related?
Cheers, I'll look into it.
do you have any friends who sail there or near where you are? your brain is active and logical which is generally a good thing., but i believe you are over-thinking. get a pal who knows his way around a small keel sailboat like yours, AND TAKE IT OUT! thrash it around! see what's going on. you might me surprised. don't even THINK about making passage. just beat around your area...what they call a shakedown. i've had many sailboats, all of them between 23 and 27 foot. they're tougher than you think. don't torment yourself into overcaution. replace that imagination with a little healthy experience. i've embarrassed myself plenty of times. haven't died that many times...
😂😂😂 I'm hoping to get out soon with rich from sailing mist. Then I'll try and get out every day until I need to leave.
Use the mast .lein it over to get it out of the water line.... You might be able to do some repairs from the outside add another a temporary stringer
I'll look into it, cheers.
F
I feel it.
F
😂👍