Nice method! I have one of those tilt blocks, but since it runs on batteries, I don't keep it in my shop during the winter. Therefore it's NEVER in my shop when I need it.
I made one of the dial indicator set up gauge about a year ago after watching your videos. I use it all the time for setting up my machines. it has become a tool that i won't be without. Very easy and accurate. Thank you for your awesome videos.
Thanks for your helpful explanation and instruction. I've had a dial indicator for 20 years and never learned "how to". My jointer performance is much better because of your help. Great stuff.
I made a version of your original jig and love it. For angles, I attached a small piece of steel to a block of wood with two screws as bumpers and I use a dial test indicator on a Noga mag base/arm. Particularly nice since the test indicator stylus can be moved around to different angles.
Good stuff as always! I agree about the electronic angle finders. I bought one, tried it and could tell right away from how much you could adjust without the readout changing that it wasn't that accurate. Gave it to a friend that wanted one.
I have an electronic angle gauge, and maybe it's just me, but I find the display confusing. This on the other hand looks very intuitive to quickly dial in. I'm going to have to make one of these!
Dialing in accuracy (see what I did there) is also just fun. 5 cut method for TS sled is way over kill but fun if you have the time. Also if you over do accuracy you tend to compensate some for the inherent instability of wood. Appreciate your methods and video's. I have a hat. Some guy asked me if I went to George Washington University. GW
Good information. Yes, an accurate device. I guess I was one of the lucky ones who purchased a digital angle tool that was accurate. My miters ate dead on.
I have one of the digital angle cubes. I have found that there is quite a bit of adjusting when it indicates 45 and then through to the next tenth of a degree. I have checked my combo square with the machinist gauges at work and trust that it is accurate. I get better results with it than the cube. I can see Brian’s method would be even more accurate and easier to adjust.
When I check different spots on the blade for 45degrees, it is off by 30 thousandths! But at 90degrees straight up and down, it is near perfect! What can I do?
Why two screws instead of just a block of wood? I built one without the screws and don’t have to worry about the screws. I never quite understood the rationale.
The two screws, which are at the same depth, allow you to approach the blade at 90 degrees consistently. If the measurement is taken at an approach angle to the blade that deviates from 90 degrees by a significant amount, it can have an effect on the measurement. Let me know if this is not clear.
@@GarageWoodworks Thanks for the reply. I don't think I'm explaining it well. Here's an image: i2.wp.com/mansteading.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Screen-Shot-2018-12-04-at-3.06.56-PM.png?resize=600%2C339 Basically, instead of resting at 90 degrees against, the screws, the square rests 90 degrees against the wood. I got sick of fiddling with getting the screws correctly aligned, and I thought a block of wood would work as well. Am I missing something important?
@@DustinFife The method utilizes Tan math at its core. See here: www.garagewoodworks.com/angle_math.php. In my jig, the adjacent side in the figure is the distance between the lower screw and the tip of the dial indicator. The longer this distance, the greater the sensitivity in "measuring" the angle (we aren't really measuring the angle, but matching it to a reference angle). When the reference angle is 90 degrees, and IF the top of the block of wood is making contact instead of the lower part of the wood, your distance will be shorter. In theory, if you cut it at a "perfect" 90 degrees then the entire edge of the block of wood will make contact at the same time - in practice I'm not sure how likely this is. Another factor to consider is that the blade is likely to have tiny high and low spots which can impact where the blade is making contact on your block of wood (when the blade is at 90 degrees). I think the safest practice is to use the smallest contact point you can get away with - a screw is a great option in my opinion. If your reference angle is always going to be 45 degrees, then the bottom of the block of wood will always be making contact with the reference and not the top - in this scenario your jig should work fine. The "opposite side" in the diagram will be the distance measured by the dial indicator after being zeroed at the reference square. Please let me know if this isn't clear. (Disclaimer: I had to edit this reply a few times to correctly express what I wanted to say)
The second screw (the one away from the gauge) allows you to more quickly approach the blade at a consistent angle (90 deg) from measurement to measurement. The calibration is a piece of cake and after you do it a few times it becomes second nature.
With a 45 degree miter, the angle errors will be additive. So a 45.2 miter joining with a 45.2 miter will be a total angle error or 0.4 degrees. That is significant enough to see gaps in your miter joint. And the thicker the board or longer the miter, the larger the gap will be.
Great idea, to use for 90 do you reset to zero or just calibrate and remember what that number was on the dial The thumbs down voters just don't understand the benifit
I would calibrate for each angle and adjust the bezel to zero. You might need to re-position the dial indicator to use for 90. Just make a second screw hole further back on the jig. This will depend on your dial indicator and how tall you make the jig.
For a lot of the tools used in my videos see: www.garagewoodworks.com/GW-azn.php
See what I offer Patreon members: www.patreon.com/garagewoodworks
Nice method! I have one of those tilt blocks, but since it runs on batteries, I don't keep it in my shop during the winter. Therefore it's NEVER in my shop when I need it.
I made one of the dial indicator set up gauge about a year ago after watching your videos. I use it all the time for setting up my machines. it has become a tool that i won't be without. Very easy and accurate. Thank you for your awesome videos.
Thanks for your helpful explanation and instruction. I've had a dial indicator for 20 years and never learned "how to". My jointer performance is much better because of your help. Great stuff.
I made a version of your original jig and love it. For angles, I attached a small piece of steel to a block of wood with two screws as bumpers and I use a dial test indicator on a Noga mag base/arm. Particularly nice since the test indicator stylus can be moved around to different angles.
Good stuff as always! I agree about the electronic angle finders. I bought one, tried it and could tell right away from how much you could adjust without the readout changing that it wasn't that accurate. Gave it to a friend that wanted one.
Thank you 1 million times over....this is very needed with mitered boxes
Nice idea! Well done 👍👍👍👍
Good stuff Brian!
I have an electronic angle gauge, and maybe it's just me, but I find the display confusing. This on the other hand looks very intuitive to quickly dial in. I'm going to have to make one of these!
Another great video brother.
I love the Dial Indicator videos.
Dialing in accuracy (see what I did there) is also just fun. 5 cut method for TS sled is way over kill but fun if you have the time. Also if you over do accuracy you tend to compensate some for the inherent instability of wood. Appreciate your methods and video's. I have a hat. Some guy asked me if I went to George Washington University. GW
Ha ha. I guess it could have been worse than GW University :)
Good information. Yes, an accurate device. I guess I was one of the lucky ones who purchased a digital angle tool that was accurate. My miters ate dead on.
I really like this method! Thank you
I'd like to see you actually compare your method against one of those digital ones you mentioned.
Make some cuts switching from 45 to 90 to show speed and ease
Send me one. There is no way I'd spend money on one of those.
I have one of the digital angle cubes. I have found that there is quite a bit of adjusting when it indicates 45 and then through to the next tenth of a degree. I have checked my combo square with the machinist gauges at work and trust that it is accurate. I get better results with it than the cube. I can see Brian’s method would be even more accurate and easier to adjust.
I need a refresher on where to release the blade for angles
I like! Thanks again Brian.
The link to the previous video u mentioned is not in the description
Nicely done!
When I check different spots on the blade for 45degrees, it is off by 30 thousandths! But at 90degrees straight up and down, it is near perfect! What can I do?
This is a great way to get dead on accuracy. Thanks!
Why two screws instead of just a block of wood? I built one without the screws and don’t have to worry about the screws. I never quite understood the rationale.
The two screws, which are at the same depth, allow you to approach the blade at 90 degrees consistently. If the measurement is taken at an approach angle to the blade that deviates from 90 degrees by a significant amount, it can have an effect on the measurement. Let me know if this is not clear.
@@GarageWoodworks Thanks for the reply. I don't think I'm explaining it well. Here's an image: i2.wp.com/mansteading.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Screen-Shot-2018-12-04-at-3.06.56-PM.png?resize=600%2C339 Basically, instead of resting at 90 degrees against, the screws, the square rests 90 degrees against the wood. I got sick of fiddling with getting the screws correctly aligned, and I thought a block of wood would work as well. Am I missing something important?
This might also be helpful: www.garagewoodworks.com/Align_90.php
@@DustinFife The method utilizes Tan math at its core. See here: www.garagewoodworks.com/angle_math.php. In my jig, the adjacent side in the figure is the distance between the lower screw and the tip of the dial indicator. The longer this distance, the greater the sensitivity in "measuring" the angle (we aren't really measuring the angle, but matching it to a reference angle). When the reference angle is 90 degrees, and IF the top of the block of wood is making contact instead of the lower part of the wood, your distance will be shorter. In theory, if you cut it at a "perfect" 90 degrees then the entire edge of the block of wood will make contact at the same time - in practice I'm not sure how likely this is. Another factor to consider is that the blade is likely to have tiny high and low spots which can impact where the blade is making contact on your block of wood (when the blade is at 90 degrees). I think the safest practice is to use the smallest contact point you can get away with - a screw is a great option in my opinion. If your reference angle is always going to be 45 degrees, then the bottom of the block of wood will always be making contact with the reference and not the top - in this scenario your jig should work fine.
The "opposite side" in the diagram will be the distance measured by the dial indicator after being zeroed at the reference square.
Please let me know if this isn't clear.
(Disclaimer: I had to edit this reply a few times to correctly express what I wanted to say)
Why two screws? Why not one screw directly inline with the gauge? It seemed awkward when you were calibrating it.
The second screw (the one away from the gauge) allows you to more quickly approach the blade at a consistent angle (90 deg) from measurement to measurement. The calibration is a piece of cake and after you do it a few times it becomes second nature.
In which case is an accuracy of 0.2 degrees not enough?
Good trick!
With a 45 degree miter, the angle errors will be additive. So a 45.2 miter joining with a 45.2 miter will be a total angle error or 0.4 degrees. That is significant enough to see gaps in your miter joint. And the thicker the board or longer the miter, the larger the gap will be.
Great idea, to use for 90 do you reset to zero or just calibrate and remember what that number was on the dial
The thumbs down voters just don't understand the benifit
I would calibrate for each angle and adjust the bezel to zero. You might need to re-position the dial indicator to use for 90. Just make a second screw hole further back on the jig. This will depend on your dial indicator and how tall you make the jig.
I had the same apron could not stand the strap on my neck
ok
Good video, but I’d remove the word “quickly” from the title, as this video and method is anything but quick lol