Im the only one who live a comment but i got to say thanks you man you the only one who realy show how to make this and what parts we need thanks you bro
You are very resourceful fella. Did well with the minimal amount of tools. I will try this myself and see a hot blue flame. Keep on making video's too. Peace
The test firing it seems to work very well. In practice it could be a lot smaller using plumbind 10 mm tube, and even car brake pipe. As for making that fitting you can buy off the shelf airline connectors with the right connections. I do not know why you had to make something. I also feel the brass pipe was far too large internal diameter. I have seen nozzles made from mig welding tips and i think your jet would be much more controllable if you soldered one in your brass tube. A good thing with mig welding tips is they have a hole of 0.6, 0.8, or 1.0mm ready drilled accurately.
Sure, go ahaed and try it. The brass tube is so large because used oil can be very viscous and have particles in it. This can easily clog small nozzles.
@@garage_projects The secret with any waste oil burner is to get as much residue and particles out of the fuel for the reason you mention. Well filtered oil will burn better and with less clogging than fuel just used as it comes. You obviously, then, dont filtre your oil stock, which you should. Even with the size of your tube i dont think it would pass a pea!
I just built one for melting steel in a furnace but I’m about 100 deg c short , I think I need a better one and that one you made looks heap hotter then mine . I’ll grab some drawing or plans if you don’t mind
Great job. I have been playing with trying to replicate his burners with very limited success. Looks like you have figured it out I will be taking things that you showed and trying them myself. Make some more videos doing a good job
what pressures do you run at on the air side? or what kinda compressor are we talking about to supply this thing with air other than that very very nice
Due to my pressure regulator being broken at the time of filming I used the air straight off the air tank, so around 7-8 bar. The label on the air compressor says 600l/min, but you can get away with less.
Hello. I've just built one of these but had to use a piece of pipe for the flame tube while I'm waiting for sheet metal to arrive. The problem i have is that it's extremely loud. Like 120 db loud! I used waste oil for the test.
@@garage_projects It burns so hot its unbelievable. I've matched my max oil flow to the air input as the oil flow is the limiting factor. The flame tube glows a yellow reddish colour. Without smoke!
@@garage_projects Hello again. I've built this version of the flame tube and it seems to be a bit harder to regulate than the pipe version I first built. It's much quieter though. If you take a slow motion video it sounds like a pulse jet. I'm actually going to flip the head around and try it in reverse so that the gasses have a harder time getting out and more fuel is burnt. If it doesn't work all I've wasted is time. It works great with heating oil though but the waste oil is harder to dial in. I'm going to try it again on the weekend. Thanks for the inspiration and I hope you don't mind me bothering you. 😉
@@AshGTE yeah just try around until you find something that ends up working. I'm the opposite of bothered, I find it cool when people experiment with stuff and modify it. So please let me know your findings!
the larger tubes will require a higher volume of air to pull the obvious larger amount of fuel this things going to want. that's why his burners are made with 3\8 1\4 and 1\8 materials. the fuel supply tube should be slightly set behind your larger orifice not flush. that's why you're not getting the right atomization pattern for optimal performance. it's imperative to have the right spray pattern, correct sized combustion chamber, secondary air inlet hole, and distance from nozzle to combustion chamber. you made a working torch, but it should and can run a lot better. nobox, I assure you, is a professional and knows the science and physics behind everything he makes. I've got quite a few vids of some I've made running in the wild and in my foundry on T. t. I run them on diesel, and believe me, with smaller sized hardware even, they run A LOT hotter and produce a ton more heat and power than this thing. you are resourceful though for sure. kudos.
thanks for the feedback man. I know he spent years developing his products so they are obviously going to be better. This is my first attempt at trying to make something like this and for me it works well enough.
Careful it doesn't get too hot as the galvanized fitting produces very dangerous compound when burned.. if memory served it has something to do with the zinc...
inquiry. Do you use motor oil, transmission oil or vegetable oil? Also, can I use any type of oil or would I have to modify the tip for different types of oils. By the way, your work is unique, greetings.
Thanks for your comment! So far I've tried used engine oil, vegetable oil and diesel. I did notice the diesel produced the bluest and cleanest flame, but all of the options worked flawlessly in terms of burning. No, you don't have to modify the tip. The advantage of this atomizer is that it hasn't got any small orfice the oil has to pass through. So even very dirty used oil won't clog the nozzle.
If you trying to make waste oil burner this is not the right way. Perfect siphon nozzle you can buy for a couple of dollars. That is the easiest way...but the best way to burn any type of waste oil is the burner that is work on R. Babington patent and principle. I burnt 20 tons of different oil type.....I can tell something 😊
I used a compressor for air (hence the air quick connect on the back of the nozzle) and no pump for the oil. If the oil tank is above the burner it flows by itself. The label on the air compressor says 600l/min, but you can get away with less.
Good job on all but there is a similar way to build the oil connector, they make an adapter you can thread into the cap. Other than that GOOD Project!!!
ok, i saw the part with the solder will not get hot, so it makes sense. But why not just use a moped or car carburetor? Isn't it basically the same thing?
@@garage_projects disregard the other comment, i am a bit drunk. But i think a carburetor should work just the same. Perhaps modified a bit so it can take the pressure of a compressor, and a heating element to heat up the oil a bit before it gets sprayed. Either way, this stuff you made seems to work fine as well, with cheap materials. But i am gonna try it, just to see if it would perhaps be easy enough to buy it off the shelve. Cause i hate manual labor
For me, the amount of air is the limiting factor for this nozzle. So if you want more heat, you need to burn more fuel, for which you need more air. To get more more air you could either run at a higher pressure or increase the annular gap to allow more air to flow
The nozzle will work just fine. I would be more concerned about the stainless combustion chamber. If you make it from thicker sheet metal though it should hold up I think
Could be multiple things: 1. too much fuel, try dialing it back 2. dirty fuel, maybe try with clean diesel 3. too little air, try more pressure or bigger compressor
I don't have the means to measure such high temperatures but when I used a similar burner in my furnace it did manage to make the lid melt and drip down. It was made from a mix of plaster of paris and sand which both have quite high melting points.
A standard air compressor is just fine, so a few bars, the thing you should be more concerned about is airflow. My compressor says it does 600 liters per minute, but it doesn't run all the time. My smaller 140 lpm one doesn't quite cut it though. So the minimum is somewhere in between
Oh now i understand. Yes, of course it can be made round. But in my opinion it is way harder to make accurate cones than it is to just fold a piece of sheet metal. In case you want to take a look how to make the square one: ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html
In the brass tube there is fuel and in the outer tube there is compressed air. The fuel entering the air stream then gets atomized. I hope that clears it up!
@@kalancosta7650 I have not tried cast iron yet but I'm very certain it would work. One time when I was trying to make a copper alloy I heated it up way too much so my furnace lid started to melt and drip down. It is made of a mix of sand and plaster of paris. Both of these have a melting point way higher than cast iron
Thanks for asking! The oil comes from the lower pipe and goes through the brass tube. The air comes from above and goes around the brass tube and through the small ring-shaped gap in the front. They only mix when they are already outside of the whole assemly.
@@garage_projects thanks for that. What stops the air from going the other way back towards the oil ball valve ? Is the oil under pressure or just gravity fed. Do you think this could be done with of the shelf parts and no welding ? I would buy one from nobox7 from his ebay store but im in the uk and the postage and imports is horrendous
It's essentially just two pipes inside each other with the inner one (brass) carrying the oil and the outer one (galvanized) carrying the air. The brass tube is going from the back all the way to the front without any holes in it, so there is no way for the air to enter. Maybe this illustrates it better: ua-cam.com/video/83xhBa-CjtI/v-deo.html The oil line is actually under a weak vacuum from all the fast moving air so the nozzle sucks in the oil. The oil tank should however be above the nozzle to ensure proper flow. If you need your tank to be below the nozzle you will need to pressurize it. To avoid welding the nozzle could be made from brass parts using soldering / brazing. Although I'm not sure how to build the burner itself without welding.
@@garage_projects thank you very much for that. I'm looking at making the whole thing from stainless and a friend of mine will weld the inner tube in place
Brilliant How long did the burner last To be honest 24hrs is good value if I could heat the amount of steel I needed to heat in the ease of such a thing 🤩🤩🤩
@@mikehurst9880 I only used heating oil so far with this particular nozzle but I have tried thicker oil on a similar one in the past and it worked as well! There is no narrow spot anywhere in the oil line and therefore it can't clog.
@garage_projects I had one on a water jacket on my big cam cummins failed And it would not shutdown the heat to the cab and the air conditioning would not cool enough to overcome the heater
@@garage_projects great... for how much used oil consumption? I need your help, I have a plan to make 10 pieces for the frying pan. I think I have to provide a compressor with what capacity? thank you
@@garage_projects i mean something like this, ua-cam.com/video/VsbBagpWaOw/v-deo.htmlsi=S00XpqRJmFb1pyuw i think the refractory can be done with portland cement CEM III and silica sand maybe
how about a little safety here , maybe with some gloves ,even a cheap drill press vise , and I hope you are wearing safety glasses ???!!!!! You are very resourceful with your build and you have a very positive outcome with all your effort , but ; it doesn't amount to ANYTHING if you screw up your hand , finger , or other !!! You will obviously be building future projects and I don't want to see your project work impeded by an injury , PLEASE , from someone who has been been in too much of a hurry to concentrate on safety in my past projects and the work of my coworkers projects , injuries are no joke !!! Thanks for sharing and SAFETY FIRST !!!!
thanks, I agree. I am wearing glasses, I don't take eye injuries lightly. The part slipping on the drill press was a stupid mistake I could have seen coming, and I have learned from it.
@@adamevans7692 the young man wasn't operating " rotational engineering tools " in the entire video , IDIOT !!! I worked in a machine shop for 45 years and much of the time we were required to wear gloves , but; not when running the lathe or mill , and the glove rule reduced our injury rate by over 60% !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@garage_projects🙏 I have one aerosol generator that can change the size of the particles, but not the outlet flow rate or pressure. It just go out as a fume. The problem is that I need to generate bubbles with the aerosol. I tried just using a hose from the aerosol generator to the botom of a vertical tube but the liquid drains out. The question might be, what can I include between the aerosol generator and the tube to increase the aerosol pressure to be able to create bubbles with it ?
don't use galvanaized pipe on high heat applications - granted it's a waste oil burner and you're well ventilated, but black pipe is a much safer alternative (and cheaper).
Im the only one who live a comment but i got to say thanks you man you the only one who realy show how to make this and what parts we need thanks you bro
Thanks for leaving the first comment on this channel! And also I'm glad you liked it!
I am in support of your comment. Wonderful job... But we still have questions : more and more till you get bored.
Thank you for your experiment,, it is a productive knowledge and ideas,,cheers!!!
You are very resourceful fella. Did well with the minimal amount of tools. I will try this myself and see a hot blue flame. Keep on making video's too. Peace
Good job on the adapter. That's the kind of diy stuff I like to see.
You did it. The best! Blue flame torch. Congratulations po
Your a champion, I had been watching some of his videos lately and wondered how he did the nozzle. Thanks for posting this.. Subscribed.
Thanks for the kind words!
The test firing it seems to work very well. In practice it could be a lot smaller using plumbind 10 mm tube, and even car brake pipe. As for making that fitting you can buy off the shelf airline connectors with the right connections. I do not know why you had to make something. I also feel the brass pipe was far too large internal diameter. I have seen nozzles made from mig welding tips and i think your jet would be much more controllable if you soldered one in your brass tube. A good thing with mig welding tips is they have a hole of 0.6, 0.8, or 1.0mm ready drilled accurately.
Sure, go ahaed and try it. The brass tube is so large because used oil can be very viscous and have particles in it. This can easily clog small nozzles.
@@garage_projects The secret with any waste oil burner is to get as much residue and particles out of the fuel for the reason you mention. Well filtered oil will burn better and with less clogging than fuel just used as it comes. You obviously, then, dont filtre your oil stock, which you should. Even with the size of your tube i dont think it would pass a pea!
I just built one for melting steel in a furnace but I’m about 100 deg c short , I think I need a better one and that one you made looks heap hotter then mine . I’ll grab some drawing or plans if you don’t mind
Here is the plan: ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html
Please let me know how it turned out!
Great job. I have been playing with trying to replicate his burners with very limited success. Looks like you have figured it out I will be taking things that you showed and trying them myself. Make some more videos doing a good job
Cheers for the build mate.
I would personally like the dimensions because that thing looks really cool it seems to work exceptionally well
Here are the burner dimensions ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html
what pressures do you run at on the air side? or what kinda compressor are we talking about to supply this thing with air other than that very very nice
Due to my pressure regulator being broken at the time of filming I used the air straight off the air tank, so around 7-8 bar. The label on the air compressor says 600l/min, but you can get away with less.
@@garage_projects هل يمكن استخدام ضغط بخار الماء الساخن في الأنبوب الآخر بدلا من ضغط الهواء ؟
Pls can u give step by step details to make this type of waist oil burner. I want to make 300cft p.h burner.
here is the rest of the burner ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.htmlsi=bJmEh6SuvTRo_EXl
Awesome, especially if that is running waste oil in the test, I've seen very few flames that get that blue. Keep up the good work.
😢😢😢😢 14:22 14:22
I like this burner system a lot better.
Hello. I've just built one of these but had to use a piece of pipe for the flame tube while I'm waiting for sheet metal to arrive. The problem i have is that it's extremely loud. Like 120 db loud! I used waste oil for the test.
The louder the better right? ;)
@@garage_projects It burns so hot its unbelievable. I've matched my max oil flow to the air input as the oil flow is the limiting factor. The flame tube glows a yellow reddish colour. Without smoke!
@@garage_projects Hello again. I've built this version of the flame tube and it seems to be a bit harder to regulate than the pipe version I first built. It's much quieter though. If you take a slow motion video it sounds like a pulse jet.
I'm actually going to flip the head around and try it in reverse so that the gasses have a harder time getting out and more fuel is burnt. If it doesn't work all I've wasted is time.
It works great with heating oil though but the waste oil is harder to dial in. I'm going to try it again on the weekend.
Thanks for the inspiration and I hope you don't mind me bothering you. 😉
@@AshGTE yeah just try around until you find something that ends up working.
I'm the opposite of bothered, I find it cool when people experiment with stuff and modify it. So please let me know your findings!
Does the oil have to be pressurized or is it sufficient to have it in a normal tank?
No need to pressurize it. Just have the tank above the burner.
@@garage_projects Thank you very much ❤️
the larger tubes will require a higher volume of air to pull the obvious larger amount of fuel this things going to want. that's why his burners are made with 3\8 1\4 and 1\8 materials. the fuel supply tube should be slightly set behind your larger orifice not flush. that's why you're not getting the right atomization pattern for optimal performance. it's imperative to have the right spray pattern, correct sized combustion chamber, secondary air inlet hole, and distance from nozzle to combustion chamber. you made a working torch, but it should and can run a lot better. nobox, I assure you, is a professional and knows the science and physics behind everything he makes. I've got quite a few vids of some I've made running in the wild and in my foundry on T. t. I run them on diesel, and believe me, with smaller sized hardware even, they run A LOT hotter and produce a ton more heat and power than this thing. you are resourceful though for sure. kudos.
thanks for the feedback man.
I know he spent years developing his products so they are obviously going to be better. This is my first attempt at trying to make something like this and for me it works well enough.
Hi. That is a great little burner!!!!
Careful it doesn't get too hot as the galvanized fitting produces very dangerous compound when burned.. if memory served it has something to do with the zinc...
What power do you use with the air compressor? I want to begin my own nozzle. Congrutalations!
My compressor has a power of 3.7 kW written on the motor
A really good burner I would like some measurements so I could build one
Here they are: ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html
inquiry. Do you use motor oil, transmission oil or vegetable oil? Also, can I use any type of oil or would I have to modify the tip for different types of oils. By the way, your work is unique, greetings.
Thanks for your comment!
So far I've tried used engine oil, vegetable oil and diesel. I did notice the diesel produced the bluest and cleanest flame, but all of the options worked flawlessly in terms of burning.
No, you don't have to modify the tip. The advantage of this atomizer is that it hasn't got any small orfice the oil has to pass through. So even very dirty used oil won't clog the nozzle.
Can we make this work in the shape of a venturi forge burner?
Sure, why would it not work for a forge? I would maybe run it a bit richer than usual as to not oxidise the steel unnecessarily
hello my friend!! Great job. What the air presure do you used in your project, please?? Thanks a lot
I used the air directly off the compressor, so 6-8 bar
Trying to learn how to build used oil burner thank you
If you trying to make waste oil burner this is not the right way. Perfect siphon nozzle you can buy for a couple of dollars. That is the easiest way...but the best way to burn any type of waste oil is the burner that is work on R. Babington patent and principle. I burnt 20 tons of different oil type.....I can tell something 😊
did u used a motor, compressor or pump for pumping the oil and air? If yes which model and potency
I used a compressor for air (hence the air quick connect on the back of the nozzle) and no pump for the oil. If the oil tank is above the burner it flows by itself. The label on the air compressor says 600l/min, but you can get away with less.
Thx very useful! Do you allow me to use your video as a reference into a college project?
@@Nicolas-qe5ss sure thing, go right ahead! Maybe you can let me know how it went in the end? Good luck!
Sure!
The oil comes from which hose? Green one?
Very interesting sir,is this open source?may I request for detail of the burner?
ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html yes you may :)
Thanks for the details
Can that burner use paraffin
Does this work with blower too ? Don’t have compressors 😢
No unfortunately not. You need the pressure to create the oil mist. There are other designs that use a blower though.
Do what you do in black pipe instead of Galvanized and you will be a happy man welding/brazing. (happier) well done!
I know it's not ideal, but it was the one thing available at the local store
That's very good design. Could you please share the specifications and dimensions of your burner?
Yes of course! I'll get to it as soon as I have time!
ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html Here they are!
Did u use air compressor , do you think waste oil , can be fired on ur machine
Yes I used an air compressor and yes it is suited for waste oil as there are no small nozzles that could get clogged
What PSI does it run at?
I'm running it directly without a regulator as it is broken so at 6 bar (87 psi). It can however be operated at lower pressures I think
Good job on all but there is a similar way to build the oil connector, they make an adapter you can thread into the cap. Other than that GOOD Project!!!
ok, i saw the part with the solder will not get hot, so it makes sense.
But why not just use a moped or car carburetor?
Isn't it basically the same thing?
I don't know if that works. If you try please let me know if it works
@@garage_projects disregard the other comment, i am a bit drunk.
But i think a carburetor should work just the same. Perhaps modified a bit so it can take the pressure of a compressor, and a heating element to heat up the oil a bit before it gets sprayed.
Either way, this stuff you made seems to work fine as well, with cheap materials.
But i am gonna try it, just to see if it would perhaps be easy enough to buy it off the shelve. Cause i hate manual labor
This is a jet engine carburetor.
Where u insert the air sir
From top value or bottom sir
Air is on top where the quick connect is
@@garage_projects thank you for your kind information
Can we melt copper by doing ur project sir
Yes it can melt copper for sure
@@garage_projects thanks for ur good information sir
Good job from Malta.
Could you show measurments please ?
I'm working on it right now!
ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html There you go!
Good job! What power do you obtain?
I have not measured it, but it could be easily done by measuring the fuel consumption and calculating the power with the calorific value of diesel
Is the size of the fuel nozzle the limiting factor as far as BTU output? If I need more heat do I just need a larger nozzle?
For me, the amount of air is the limiting factor for this nozzle. So if you want more heat, you need to burn more fuel, for which you need more air. To get more more air you could either run at a higher pressure or increase the annular gap to allow more air to flow
ofc at some point you are gonna need a bigger combustion chamber as well...
What are you using for browing that oils
Is it a compressor
A. Fan
Or gas
Yes I use an air compressor
I need to work this continuous 4 days. Will it be possible??
The nozzle will work just fine. I would be more concerned about the stainless combustion chamber. If you make it from thicker sheet metal though it should hold up I think
Thank you
i am using 50 number crucible i will use this burner please tell me
Here is the tutorial for the burner. ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html If you have any more questions please let me know!
First of all I want to congratulate you. I have a question for you, I can't get blue flame. where is my mistake?
Could be multiple things:
1. too much fuel, try dialing it back
2. dirty fuel, maybe try with clean diesel
3. too little air, try more pressure or bigger compressor
Thank you very much for your answer. I was doing it with burnt oil, maybe that's it.
we are smelting Golden soil use this burner 50 number crucible and which chemical powder mixing for soil very well smelting please tell me
I'm sorry but I have no idea about that process. I'm afraid you'll have to figure that out yourself
How hot does this burner get?
I don't have the means to measure such high temperatures but when I used a similar burner in my furnace it did manage to make the lid melt and drip down. It was made from a mix of plaster of paris and sand which both have quite high melting points.
Great video mate. What fuel pump are you using?
@@BackseatGamingJesus None. The nozzle creates a vacuum drawing in the oil
Thanks for breaking down the process. Simple and effective. Great video and adaptive craftsmanship!.. Have you tested it with waste oil?
yes. the flame is a bit yellower, but it works just as well!
Thanks bro can I make it for heating my home
What air pressure is necessary to make it work?? Thanks
A standard air compressor is just fine, so a few bars, the thing you should be more concerned about is airflow. My compressor says it does 600 liters per minute, but it doesn't run all the time. My smaller 140 lpm one doesn't quite cut it though. So the minimum is somewhere in between
@@garage_projects thanks I appreciated
Please give details on the dimensions tnx
The burner dimensions are in this video ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html
Sir do you think this will work , using waste oil
Does the end of it have to be made that way or can you do a round end
Which end do you mean? In case you're talking about the spray end: no, it doesn't have to be a hex cap, you can also use a round one
@@garage_projects ni not the spray end. The piece at the very end on the bracket
I'm sorry but I still don't understand. Do you mean the elongated hole? That one is for adjusting the height of the nozzle to the combustion chamber
@@garage_projects the combustion chamber can it be round
Oh now i understand. Yes, of course it can be made round. But in my opinion it is way harder to make accurate cones than it is to just fold a piece of sheet metal. In case you want to take a look how to make the square one: ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html
What's in the in the brass tube, and what's in the outer tube?
In the brass tube there is fuel and in the outer tube there is compressed air. The fuel entering the air stream then gets atomized. I hope that clears it up!
@@garage_projects Thank you very much.
Appreciate your idea man!
how much CFM and pressure air is being used? Does it take alot of compressed air to run?
How long time take this furnes to melting copper and melting meterial capacity .....?
what is the length of the 2 1/4 inch threaded pipes that have the ball valves connected to them?
The parts list is in the description!
What is the output temperature
Unfortunately I have no way of measuring it. A blue flame is pretty hot though!
Love the job mate..am off to plumbworld to get the raw parts.
Cool!
Sorry, can you tell me which pipe for the oil?
The 6mm brass tube is for oil
great a jet engine wheel barrow lol
Many thanks no special tools and totally diy
Thanks very much realy apricate
What psi do you run in the air line
I use the air straight off the air tank, so around 7-8 bar. That would be 100-115 psi
Does the green hose need to be sealed within the oil tank or is it just sitting in there ? Really appreciate the video
No you just stick into the tank loosely
@@garage_projects okay thanks
The air from a compressor? What psi?
I had it at roughly 6 or 7 bar
@@garage_projects oh much higher than I thought! Well for this type of nozzle it would have to be I guess!!! Ty for the response!
@@kalancosta7650 No problem man! I have not tested it with lower pressure though
@@garage_projects you melt iron with that?
@@kalancosta7650 I have not tried cast iron yet but I'm very certain it would work. One time when I was trying to make a copper alloy I heated it up way too much so my furnace lid started to melt and drip down. It is made of a mix of sand and plaster of paris. Both of these have a melting point way higher than cast iron
Hi. What pipe does what. Does the oil come from the top or bottom pipe and what's the brass inner tube for ?
Thanks for asking! The oil comes from the lower pipe and goes through the brass tube. The air comes from above and goes around the brass tube and through the small ring-shaped gap in the front. They only mix when they are already outside of the whole assemly.
@@garage_projects thanks for that.
What stops the air from going the other way back towards the oil ball valve ?
Is the oil under pressure or just gravity fed.
Do you think this could be done with of the shelf parts and no welding ?
I would buy one from nobox7 from his ebay store but im in the uk and the postage and imports is horrendous
It's essentially just two pipes inside each other with the inner one (brass) carrying the oil and the outer one (galvanized) carrying the air. The brass tube is going from the back all the way to the front without any holes in it, so there is no way for the air to enter. Maybe this illustrates it better: ua-cam.com/video/83xhBa-CjtI/v-deo.html
The oil line is actually under a weak vacuum from all the fast moving air so the nozzle sucks in the oil. The oil tank should however be above the nozzle to ensure proper flow. If you need your tank to be below the nozzle you will need to pressurize it.
To avoid welding the nozzle could be made from brass parts using soldering / brazing. Although I'm not sure how to build the burner itself without welding.
@@garage_projects thank you very much for that. I'm looking at making the whole thing from stainless and a friend of mine will weld the inner tube in place
@@davidt3321 Cool! Please let me know how it turned out once you're done!
At what psi you run air
6 bar straight from the tank
Impressive work!
Brilliant
How long did the burner last
To be honest 24hrs is good value if I could heat the amount of steel I needed to heat in the ease of such a thing 🤩🤩🤩
I haven't counted the hours but it still holds up after using it sporadically ever since posting the vid
Does the nozzle get hot at all? Closest to the burner.
It gets cooled down by all the air flowing in and around it. So no, it doesn't really.
@@garage_projects awesome, great video. Have you tried to bring oil in it?
@@mikehurst9880 I only used heating oil so far with this particular nozzle but I have tried thicker oil on a similar one in the past and it worked as well! There is no narrow spot anywhere in the oil line and therefore it can't clog.
what air pressure need
straight from the tank, thats 6-8 bar. I dont't know the lower limit though
Those ball valves better not get hot
They have a plastic seal that will not take much could cause heater to run wild
@@donaldglenny3188 eh I'm not too worried as they always get cooled by the air/oil flowing through them
@garage_projects I had one on a water jacket on my big cam cummins failed
And it would not shutdown the heat to the cab and the air conditioning would not cool enough to overcome the heater
@@donaldglenny3188 Lol that sucks. Thanks for the heads up 👍
wow..may i have your compressor specification data?
It says 600 l/min and has a 3.7 kW motor. Unfortunately it only has a sigle zylinder but we bought it used so it was a great deal anyway
@@garage_projects great... for how much used oil consumption?
I need your help, I have a plan to make 10 pieces for the frying pan. I think I have to provide a compressor with what capacity? thank you
@@jasapembuatanmesinukmcustom9 what do mean with frying pan? Like a big cooking surface for food?
@@garage_projects
600 ml/min or 600 l/min ?
600 liters per minute
great build please make a crucible free foundry next! 😁
what do you mean by "crucible free" ?
@@garage_projects i mean something like this, ua-cam.com/video/VsbBagpWaOw/v-deo.htmlsi=S00XpqRJmFb1pyuw i think the refractory can be done with portland cement CEM III and silica sand maybe
Queremos ver o teste com oil used de motor
Badass
how about a little safety here , maybe with some gloves ,even a cheap drill press vise , and I hope you are wearing safety glasses ???!!!!! You are very resourceful with your build and you have a very positive outcome with all your effort , but ; it doesn't amount to ANYTHING if you screw up your hand , finger , or other !!! You will obviously be building future projects and I don't want to see your project work impeded by an injury , PLEASE , from someone who has been been in too much of a hurry to concentrate on safety in my past projects and the work of my coworkers projects , injuries are no joke !!! Thanks for sharing and SAFETY FIRST !!!!
thanks, I agree. I am wearing glasses, I don't take eye injuries lightly. The part slipping on the drill press was a stupid mistake I could have seen coming, and I have learned from it.
Wearing gloves with rotational engineering tools is idiocy and will cause you more harm than a cut to the finger.
@@adamevans7692 the young man wasn't operating " rotational engineering tools " in the entire video , IDIOT !!! I worked in a machine shop for 45 years and much of the time we were required to wear gloves , but; not when running the lathe or mill , and the glove rule reduced our injury rate by over 60% !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dimensions please
ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html
I'm with a technical challenge in my PhD. Can you help me?
Sure, I can try. What is it about?
@@garage_projects🙏 I have one aerosol generator that can change the size of the particles, but not the outlet flow rate or pressure. It just go out as a fume. The problem is that I need to generate bubbles with the aerosol. I tried just using a hose from the aerosol generator to the botom of a vertical tube but the liquid drains out. The question might be, what can I include between the aerosol generator and the tube to increase the aerosol pressure to be able to create bubbles with it ?
@@User-Tal1951 So you need bubbles filled with a mixture of gas and particles right? what substances are we working wirh here if I may ask?
@@garage_projectsI'm using DEHS as aerosol. I am trying to create bubbles only with it. But the pressure it's not being enough
maybe you could try a fuel pump? those have quite high pressures. I don't know if it would be chemically compatible with dehs tho...
Hi
How we can make it auto to burn?
Great job.....👍👍👍
Hi, can you help me? I need the información please.
Sorry but which information? How to make the burner? In that case: ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html
Amigo vc eh muito talentoso obg pela ideia
Hello you made a blue flame
Nice one ,send me the dimensions please
I made a video that shows the dimensions! ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html
Diesel consumption per hour??!
No clue. but if you know how much power you need you can approximately calculate it with the calorific value.
I asked about fuel consumption of your burner with blue flame
No idea. I just stick the hose into a canister, so it's hard to tell
Estou pesquisando um destes para construir achei o seu projeto interessante. 👍🇧🇷
Esse é top!
Un trabajo excelente
don't use galvanaized pipe on high heat applications - granted it's a waste oil burner and you're well ventilated, but black pipe is a much safer alternative (and cheaper).
The air flowing through cools it so it doesn't get significantly hot. Also they only had this kind of pipe. Other than that, fair point!
How much work to make it thermostat controlled and self start?
Mighty fine
very useful, really good, thank you
Excellent
Thanks!
hi dear plz average per litter...
Sorry, I didn't do any measurements
yea, don't hold things with your fingers that close to the drill press.
You forgot the air heating chamber men.. i think it more hotter if you put it..
I'm sure it would but I wanted to keep it simple for this one
nice job.....
thank
No problem!
Thanks!
Great!!!
Yes sir pls give dimensions
They are in this video ua-cam.com/video/xfoVHW8LRVk/v-deo.html