I understand that you want to keep with Rodinal alone but it just doesn't tend to play very well with Ilford's Delta films, though it can be fine with TMX/TMY. Delta 400 can be fine grain and come out lovely but I specifically have two options of developers (rodinal and xtol/xt-3) specifically for this purpose. I tend to use Rodinal for slower films and xtol for faster ones, though with sheets it's less of an issue.
thanks for your videos, I find them very interesting and most importantly, very useful. I am also experimenting Rodinal 1+100 with stand development. How do you shake (and when)? I read somewhere my technique which is 1 min slow turns and then leave it there for the rest of the time. Whatś your technique? Thanks and regards
Hi Nicolas, I just love your videos !!! I spent a lot of time playing with developers in my darkroom 40 years ago ! Today, I'm switching back to analog photography, I discovered and bought some Hasselblad and Fuji Medium format stuff (As well as playing with my Nikon and Leica M gears ...) ... It seems that your channel, with your experience, is exactly what I was looking for !!! Thank you for sharing. All the best from a French guy living on the sunny side, In Madrid Spain !
Hi Nico Rodinal doesn't shine for sensitivities above 100 ISO, You should definitely try liquid T-Max or x-Tol developpers with this film. A nice solution (but expensive) is Portra 400 color negative converted in B&W during scan. My own choice for long years is Tri-X exposed at 200 ISO developped in over-diluted HC110 ( Ansel Adams recipe in his book The Negative)
@@jean-claudemuller3199 Hi Jean Claude! Thank you for stopping by! I have a couple bottles of x-tol clone (from Bellini) that I picked up while travelling. Haven’t gotten around to using them yet, if I ever shoot a large amount of fast film for a project I’ll definitely give that a shot. I standardised on Rodinal because it’s not that easy to have access to everything in Norway. I wanted a developer that I can walk into a shop and buy a bottle of. Ordering online doesn’t always work due to shipping restrictions on some chemicals. common developer like D76 can sometimes be out of stock for weeks until the importer gets a new shipment… With time, I have become very dependant on the compensating aspect of Rodinal. I can use it 1:25 to bring some punch to flat scenes, or 1:50 to tame the contrast of bright sunny days. I even have a recipe at 1:100 for extreme flattening of the curve, for example if I've shot indoors and i want detail both inside and outside the windows… This took me to a place where i'd rather find a film that plays well with Rodinal rather than choose any film and then figure out which developer is good for it. so far i like : 80iso : FP4 100iso : Tmax100 200iso : Tri-x 400iso : Tmax400
Thanks Nico, for another inspiring video, and such lovely images!I was wandering about the streets of Edinburgh today with Digital, the light was miserable, I was thinking I out to be dusting down the M/F, and be shooting monochrome film! So. thanks again,...Im finding some old rolls of TMax100 dated 2006...and TriX 2007...Even an old unopened Rodinal..Happy days! ;-}
Hi Del! Oslo has miserable weather and light most days... We can’t let it stop us from enjoying ourselves! Black and white film is definitely a good trick for turning those conditions into a good “look”.
Thank you for sharing your experiences, and helping us avoid some of the pitfalls. Living across the world, far from reliable film sources, I have to buy film "on the blind".. I too have chosen Rodinal stand as my developer and method of choice, and this does NOT work well for all films. Keep the videos coming, we like them!
@@nicolaslevy2657 Hi I must admit I have not developed at home. Because I am moving to another country but there I will establish a darkroom. But I will try one of Ilfords own developer.
@@stefanol9272 I always assume that labs are using Xtol. Don’t remember if that’s because I heard it years ago or if that’s because that’s what I would use if I owned a lab. 😅
@@nicolaslevy2657 Hi I absolutely understand you. When I in the next two month move into my the new place. My girlfriend and will build a dedicated darkroom. And then I want to developed like a crazy. And today I go out and shoot photos. I loaded with a Ilford HP5 and mounted a yellow filter.
@@nicolaslevy2657 You may want to try Ilford DD-X. Its my favourite developer (though rodinal is a close second). It works really well with T-grain emulsions like Ilford's Delta line or Fuji's Acros II
Hi Nicolas, What is your recipe for FP4 x Rodinal? I’ve been developing FP4 metered at 100 in 1+50 for 12 minutes a lot, and I’m quite happy with the results. But it would be interesting to expose it at 64 or 80, when seeing your results. Thank you! This channel is great. Talent, interesting topics, diversity and no “cool” music. 5/5
Hi, if you’re happy with your recipe, I’d try just to remove 10% development time, and expose for 64 to 80 iso. (The rule of thumb is 1 stop of film speed is 20% extra development time). My exact time is 11:30 for 1:50 and 64 iso so we’re very close. I agitate very little which explains why my times are usually a bit longer than average.
Your conversations are a joy! I just finished your blog on film and I go through the same questions in my mind. Thank you!
I understand that you want to keep with Rodinal alone but it just doesn't tend to play very well with Ilford's Delta films, though it can be fine with TMX/TMY. Delta 400 can be fine grain and come out lovely but I specifically have two options of developers (rodinal and xtol/xt-3) specifically for this purpose. I tend to use Rodinal for slower films and xtol for faster ones, though with sheets it's less of an issue.
Agreed. Rodinal is a very poor match for Delta 400, which can perform beautifully in the right developer. Just not Rodinal.
Hi Nico, your statue photo is great! Good work
thanks for your videos, I find them very interesting and most importantly, very useful. I am also experimenting Rodinal 1+100 with stand development. How do you shake (and when)? I read somewhere my technique which is 1 min slow turns and then leave it there for the rest of the time. Whatś your technique? Thanks and regards
Hi Nicolas, I just love your videos !!! I spent a lot of time playing with developers in my darkroom 40 years ago ! Today, I'm switching back to analog photography, I discovered and bought some Hasselblad and Fuji Medium format stuff (As well as playing with my Nikon and Leica M gears ...) ... It seems that your channel, with your experience, is exactly what I was looking for !!! Thank you for sharing. All the best from a French guy living on the sunny side, In Madrid Spain !
I really enjoyed that well thought review. You explain very well where you are coming from with all your decisions. Are you planning to try XP2?
Hi Nico
Rodinal doesn't shine for sensitivities above 100 ISO,
You should definitely try liquid T-Max or x-Tol developpers with this film.
A nice solution (but expensive) is Portra 400 color negative converted in B&W during scan.
My own choice for long years is Tri-X exposed at 200 ISO developped in over-diluted HC110 ( Ansel Adams recipe in his book The Negative)
@@jean-claudemuller3199
Hi Jean Claude! Thank you for stopping by! I have a couple bottles of x-tol clone (from Bellini) that I picked up while travelling. Haven’t gotten around to using them yet, if I ever shoot a large amount of fast film for a project I’ll definitely give that a shot.
I standardised on Rodinal because it’s not that easy to have access to everything in Norway. I wanted a developer that I can walk into a shop and buy a bottle of. Ordering online doesn’t always work due to shipping restrictions on some chemicals. common developer like D76 can sometimes be out of stock for weeks until the importer gets a new shipment…
With time, I have become very dependant on the compensating aspect of Rodinal.
I can use it 1:25 to bring some punch to flat scenes, or 1:50 to tame the contrast of bright sunny days. I even have a recipe at 1:100 for extreme flattening of the curve, for example if I've shot indoors and i want detail both inside and outside the windows…
This took me to a place where i'd rather find a film that plays well with Rodinal rather than choose any film and then figure out which developer is good for it.
so far i like :
80iso : FP4
100iso : Tmax100
200iso : Tri-x
400iso : Tmax400
Thanks! Your video is very well done.
Very good shots used as examples, nice one
Hey Nico, I just wanted to let you know I really enjoy your videos 🥳 Keep on going ✌🏻
Thank you Gerhard!
Thanks for this video.
Lots of good info
Hi. Thanks for the video. Can you tell me the name of the recyprocyty app ?
apps.apple.com/no/app/reciprocity-timer/id459691262
Thanks Nico, for another inspiring video, and such lovely images!I was wandering about the streets of Edinburgh today with Digital, the light was miserable, I was thinking I out to be dusting down the M/F, and be shooting monochrome film!
So. thanks again,...Im finding some old rolls of TMax100 dated 2006...and TriX 2007...Even an old unopened Rodinal..Happy days! ;-}
Hi Del! Oslo has miserable weather and light most days... We can’t let it stop us from enjoying ourselves! Black and white film is definitely a good trick for turning those conditions into a good “look”.
Thank you for sharing your experiences, and helping us avoid some of the pitfalls. Living across the world, far from reliable film sources, I have to buy film "on the blind".. I too have chosen Rodinal stand as my developer and method of choice, and this does NOT work well for all films. Keep the videos coming, we like them!
My favorite black & white film 😎😎
What developer do you use for it?
@@nicolaslevy2657 Hi I must admit I have not developed at home. Because I am moving to another country but there I will establish a darkroom. But I will try one of Ilfords own developer.
@@stefanol9272 I always assume that labs are using Xtol. Don’t remember if that’s because I heard it years ago or if that’s because that’s what I would use if I owned a lab. 😅
@@nicolaslevy2657 Hi I absolutely understand you. When I in the next two month move into my the new place. My girlfriend and will build a dedicated darkroom. And then I want to developed like a crazy. And today I go out and shoot photos. I loaded with a Ilford HP5 and mounted a yellow filter.
@@nicolaslevy2657 You may want to try Ilford DD-X. Its my favourite developer (though rodinal is a close second). It works really well with T-grain emulsions like Ilford's Delta line or Fuji's Acros II
Hi Nicolas,
What is your recipe for FP4 x Rodinal? I’ve been developing FP4 metered at 100 in 1+50 for 12 minutes a lot, and I’m quite happy with the results. But it would be interesting to expose it at 64 or 80, when seeing your results.
Thank you!
This channel is great. Talent, interesting topics, diversity and no “cool” music. 5/5
Hi, if you’re happy with your recipe, I’d try just to remove 10% development time, and expose for 64 to 80 iso. (The rule of thumb is 1 stop of film speed is 20% extra development time).
My exact time is 11:30 for 1:50 and 64 iso so we’re very close. I agitate very little which explains why my times are usually a bit longer than average.
Needs Delta 400 in 4x5, please Ilford.
Looks like I need to pick up some t-max
I’m starting to wonder if I should give T-Max 100 a try now... Gassing for film is weird. 😅