I'd be worried about losing that nifty little tracker, so I'd be tempted to fit another tracker to track the tracker, then a tracker-tracker to track the tracker, and so on and so on until the model was too heavy to sustain flight long enough to need a tracker...😁
I'm new to building with balsa, but find converting OZ plans for laser cutting far more consistent than printing to paper, glue stick and cutting by hand. I tried the "traditional" way but for hard balsa and/or plywood parts, I found it nearly impossible to cut cleanly with a knife. Am I missing something? Really enjoying it though! And my first wing came out straight! No twist, warp or bends!
Always start a project with a new blade, usually a X-acto #11. To help lubricate the blade before each cut, drag it through a bar of soap, I use ivory. (my late grandfather told me no blade is sharper than a soap carver's knife) Cut all spar and stringer locations/slots/notches before cutting the rest of the part. For curved parts cut in the direction if the grain grabs the knife it will go to the outside of the part. If a cut is straight, brace the blade against a metal straight edge, if cross the grain use best direct ion to hold blade against the straight edge. It also helps if you glue some fine patches of sandpaper to the back of the straight edge to prevent slipping. Above all, you don't have to cut the part to the exact outline, you can finish by sanding to final shape.
Many modellers use a 'razor saw' for harder materials; it's an extremely thin hacksaw with a stiffened back and ultra-fine teeth. Great for the things that won't yield easily to a knife. Good luck with the model, and do please post a video of it when it's ready to fly! 🙂
@@EleanorPeterson Thanks yes I have a razor saw and keep it lubricated. Works great for hardwood spars etc. I also have used a coping saw. I find complex shapes, curves, holes in formers, etc. Its just far more reliable to use the laser for precision or tough materials (or absolute consistency such as 20 identical wing ribs. Xacto seems best for thin, soft material like sheeting. For me, part of the fun is learning what techniques work best for different tasks etc so all in good fun!
@@simitarknut2201 Wow! I had to come back to this comment and thank you for this advice! A simple bar of soap has made xacto knives and the razor saw so much more accurate and enjoyable to use! Just a quick swipe before I make a cut and a world of difference this lubrication has made. Thank you so much!
It may be too late for this idea. If you were to make the rudder with pull-pull cables with small tensioning springs up by the servo arm, you may be able to do away with the dethermalizer elastic band. Plus maybe still have some control as it is coming down.
Great little tracker there Mark.
Thanks Terry 😀
That was very interesting Mark. Nice!
Many thanks!
I'd be worried about losing that nifty little tracker, so I'd be tempted to fit another tracker to track the tracker, then a tracker-tracker to track the tracker, and so on and so on until the model was too heavy to sustain flight long enough to need a tracker...😁
I'm new to building with balsa, but find converting OZ plans for laser cutting far more consistent than printing to paper, glue stick and cutting by hand. I tried the "traditional" way but for hard balsa and/or plywood parts, I found it nearly impossible to cut cleanly with a knife. Am I missing something?
Really enjoying it though! And my first wing came out straight! No twist, warp or bends!
Always start a project with a new blade, usually a X-acto #11. To help lubricate the blade before each cut, drag it through a bar of soap, I use ivory. (my late grandfather told me no blade is sharper than a soap carver's knife) Cut all spar and stringer locations/slots/notches before cutting the rest of the part. For curved parts cut in the direction if the grain grabs the knife it will go to the outside of the part. If a cut is straight, brace the blade against a metal straight edge, if cross the grain use best direct ion to hold blade against the straight edge. It also helps if you glue some fine patches of sandpaper to the back of the straight edge to prevent slipping. Above all, you don't have to cut the part to the exact outline, you can finish by sanding to final shape.
Many modellers use a 'razor saw' for harder materials; it's an extremely thin hacksaw with a stiffened back and ultra-fine teeth. Great for the things that won't yield easily to a knife.
Good luck with the model, and do please post a video of it when it's ready to fly! 🙂
@@EleanorPeterson Thanks yes I have a razor saw and keep it lubricated. Works great for hardwood spars etc. I also have used a coping saw. I find complex shapes, curves, holes in formers, etc. Its just far more reliable to use the laser for precision or tough materials (or absolute consistency such as 20 identical wing ribs. Xacto seems best for thin, soft material like sheeting. For me, part of the fun is learning what techniques work best for different tasks etc so all in good fun!
@@simitarknut2201 Great tips thanks! Will def grab a bar of soap and keep it handy for lubricating these blades!
@@simitarknut2201 Wow! I had to come back to this comment and thank you for this advice! A simple bar of soap has made xacto knives and the razor saw so much more accurate and enjoyable to use! Just a quick swipe before I make a cut and a world of difference this lubrication has made. Thank you so much!
It may be too late for this idea. If you were to make the rudder with pull-pull cables with small tensioning springs up by the servo arm, you may be able to do away with the dethermalizer elastic band. Plus maybe still have some control as it is coming down.
No link for the tracker?
My apologies, here is the link bmks.co.uk/products/bmk-gps-locator-system