Modifying a Horizontal DRUM SANDER // Paul Brodie's Shop
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
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FYI, The typical way that most drum sanders work is to have a rubber washer (or sometimes the entire drum) somewhere on the shaft, usually at the end (or ends), that is compressed by a nut or wing nut so that the rubber expands radially when tightened. This contacts the inner surface of the sanding roll, holding it in place. The reason that drum sander manufacturers like this type of setup is that the sanding roll manufacturers can make the rolls with thicker or thinner backing (and they frequently do), but the rubber of the sanding drum can expand or contract to make up the difference. That way the user of the drum sander isn't forced to use one and only one manufacturer of sanding roll or one specific type of sanding roll.
What you say makes perfect sense. I hope my interpretation works well for Jorge and his magical wooden lamps. Happy Holidays!
Merry Christmas Paul, Mitch and support. Looking forward to future videos and education, Thanks. G.
Thank you very much. Wishing you the best in the Holiday Season too. We appreciate your support...
Merry Christmas Paul and Mitch 🎄🎄👍🎄🎄 Thanks for making 2023 another deeply inspiring, educational and entertaining year.
Thanks Joel. Very nice comment!!
Very nice attachment. 👍
Wow, that file must have been either well loved or new, noticed it cut real nice.
A Paul Brodie modified tool. Now that's a good fit.😁
Hey that's my line! Thanks and Happy Holidays!
Have a merry Christmas, a healthy, happy and a prosperous New Year.Thanks for all the entertainment and knowledge during the year. @@paulbrodie
Thank you very much. Very nice comment. Happy Holidays!
As one might expect,having watched a great deal of your content….as near perfect as humanly possible.
Thanks Felix. Happy Holidays!
I have done something similar. I put O rings on the spindle to add some resistance and also act like a tire to give some traction
Excellent. That's sounds like a good solution. Happy Holidays!!
Happy Holidays to you and Mitch
Hi Paul, my oscillating spindle sander uses threaded posts through various sized rubber sleeves. The sanding roll slides over the rubber sleeve and the nut at the top of the threaded post tightens down causing the rubber to bulge ever so slightly. This locks the sanding roll onto the post. My sander has sizes from 1/4" - 4" diameter. Just FYI.
Hi Brian, sounds like you have a good system.. I am fairly unfamiliar with that system. I was just doing what the customer wanted; helping out a friend of a friend...
@@paulbrodie And you did a great job as usual Paul!!! The friend of a friend best be tickled to be the recipient of your efforts!! I certainly would be! Love your attention to detail and the efficient way you work! My system is just a purchased oscillating spindle sander with a set of spindles. Nothing fancy or special. Cast iron tiltable work surface, adjustable speed, makes a lot of dust lol. Bought it years ago to add to my little home hobby shop. Take care good Sir!
Thanks Brian. Yes, I will take care. All the best!
@@paulbrodie All the best to you Paul!!
Great video guys! I’m sure the customer will be more than satisfied. Thanks for the anchor lube suggestion in your previous video Mr. Brodie it works perfectly.
Merry Christmas to you both!
👏👏👏👌merry merry Christmas Paul and Mitch
Cheers Chris
Merry Christmas Paul and Mitch!
The type of tool that you do not want catching anything by accident, especially clothing.
I originally thought the shaft should have an abrasive finish to keep the sandpaper from slipping. I doesn't look like it needs it.
You are 100% correct. Never catch clothing or anything like that! Thanks for commenting..
Merry Christmas Paul and Mitch!!!
Making arbors for those grinders are always a bit wobbly. You got a good tight fit though. Have a merry Christmas, happy holidays, happy Festivus for the rest of us! 🎄🎄🎄🎄🎅🎅🎅🎅🎅
Happy holidays! Thanks for commenting :)
So thinking about what the smaller diameter one would look like it seems a little scarry to me being unsupported at that length. Do you think it has the rigidity to not bend then potentially have the rotational force run away with it - becomming a spinning hand breaker? I would maybe want something shorter in that diameter.
Thanks for your time gentlemen. Always a learning experience when watching a master craftsman.
Thank you. Appreciate your comment :)
Loving it.
Happy Christmas, Paul and Mitch. From Les in UK 🇬🇧
Thanks Les, Happy Holidays!
Awesome !
Merry Christmas to the both of you.
Thanks David. The very same to you :)
Merry Christmas algorithm boost 👍👍
Pauls got a fro going. It's frolicious!!! 😂😂😂
Merry Christmas to You and Mitch 🎉 . Nice fab 👌 👏 🙏
Good job. Thank you 😊
Thank you Gary!
I would have done no end taper and reduced the inner taper to 1 degree so the roll fit all the way on, and was supported by the shaft at the very end. I also would have drilled through the assembled shafts where the inner shaft threads are and ran a rollpin.
Nice job
Often you can use compressed air down the tube to expand it ever so slightly enough to allow it to slide onto the mandrel.
Yes, I use compressed air to install handlebar grips. It usually works great!!
Did you run a tap right through the hole, either side of the slit? I thought that's what it looked like but I thought you'd only want the threads on the side furthest from the bolt head and a clearance hole on the other side. Otherwise I don't see how the bolt would exert any clamping force.
He showed the step where he first bored out the area where there wouldn’t be threads.
For anyone copying this, it would be better to do the bore for the shaft first, put a centre in the far end, make a mandrel to mimic the grinder shaft, and then mount this workpiece on the mandrel, add tail support with a live centre, and then turn the outside LAST. This would ensure concentricity between internal and external features. You could see the difference in concentricity between Paul's initial set-up and the second set-up when he turned the taper on the outboard end of the shaft.
I see the potential for a serious injury with this tool, and have an idea how to make it safer. More so on the side with the thinner rod. We all tend to push such tools to their limits to get the material removed quicker, so if / when the thin side gets pushed beyond it limit and the bar bends enough to cause it to whip, then the accident has happened in a blink, with no warning what so ever. I know it sounds overkill, but suppose there was some quickly attachable detachable, bracket, which fixes to the bench, with a bearing that could support the end of the bar; much like a lathe tail stock with a running centre. That would let the operator really put a load on without the fear of getting his arm or head chopped off. Imagine that tool bouncing around the bench with a bent bar on the end of the spindle. I once saw a man plug in a high torque hand drill, (which had its hand trigger latched to the ON position), which was attached to a portable cylinder hone, which was already inserted into a motorcycle cylinder, which was sitting on the workbench, with the hone universal joint at 90 degrees to the drill axis. What happened wasn't pretty!
If I did that it would wobble. That's a tricky bit of work. Seriously I would have had to buy and integrate a collet to attach to the motor shaft. So my compliments to be able to pull that off.
When I first saw the thumbnail I thought maybe you were making an abrasive mitering setup. Have ever used abrasives to do your miters or have you always used your mill and a hole saw?
Wait a minute! Those sleeves can be made in diameters you need for mitering tubes. Forget the woodworking. Why not use this for framebuilding?
Well... thin wall cro-moly tubes are very sharp, and would easily catch the drum sander if you are not extremely careful. Mounting the drum sander in my milling machine would create a lot of dust, and that is not beneficial for my mill.. Sorry, I don't see the positives, but thanks for commenting..
Nice hair..2024
Paul, I'm still worried about your crash. I for one at the present moment would not want to test ride a bike like yours unless it had a throttle return spring and a significant rear fender behind the seat. Spinning tire is too close to my behind for comfort and at speed a spring would actually speed up any reflex to shut down the motor. Lastly I would have a seconday shut off in the form of a kill switch or button. Remember the early racers were either on or off, instantly. This is probably linked to the early radial engines in for example the Sopwith Camel that basically only an on or off throttle, for whatever reason. All this being said I plan to do just what I am saying in the course of my 1916 Harley Keystone frame boardtrack street racer build. Throttle for the street but likely just on or off for the track. No brakes. Thank you for your kind attention, Thailand Paul PS After hearimg your bike run I am no longer so confident I can compete with it without a melt down, although I'll be trying!
Merry Christmas Paul and Mitch!
Thank You. Happy Holidays!
I'm impressed with that raccoon cap your sporting or maybe I'm just jealous
Wait till your leather gloves get wrapped around the spinning shaft. Ouch.
Great video Paul . Hope you guys have a wonderful Christmas and a great new year . Cheers mate from Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks Tristan. Merry Christmas to you in Australia :)
To be a friend of a friend of Paul Brodie. Cheers, happy holidays and all the best in 2024!
Thanks David :)
Great video, Paul! Every woodshop owner needs a friend like you! You have a great attitude and wonderful skills.
A oscillating sander would be easier to modify, it already has various sizes it comes with.
The grinder runs much faster than the sander. I think the artist uses this tool for shaping wood, not finishing the surface.
Thanks Justin, I agree!
Hello from Beautiful British Columbia Canada 🇨🇦😊😅😮😢🎉😂❤..fun , happy holidays and
🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🍁
Hi Paul, As a Patternmaker i use a Wadkin vertical bobbin Machine, i was trying to down load a picture for you, but don't know how to show you.
Well done ,,, not sure Id like to be standing close to it for too long ,,, buy hey ho .
and of course Ho Ho Ho , Happy Xmas guys.
Thanks Tom, Happy Holidays!
Hey Paul and Mitch, merry christmas to you. Thanks for all your content . I learned a thousand things from you. Wishing you all the best for 2024. Regards from Germany ❤
Nice engineering, wishing you and Mitch Merry Christmas.
Nice job! Merry Christmas to you guys!
Thanks! You too!
awesome as usual....
Like from Ukraine🇺🇦👍
Hello Ukraine... Happy Holidays!
Very good. Happy christmas to ye both
Thanks Gerald. Happy Holidays !!
Happy Christmas and a good New year.
Happy holidays!
🎅🏻🎅🏻🎅🏻🎅🏻🎅🏻👍🏻
Engineering and artistry for purpose. Well done! Go Paul and Mitch, keep moving forward!