DuB-EnG: T6 Campervan - Wiring up CTEK D250SA DC-DC charge controller Euro6 smart alternator engines
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2024
- Part6 of the VW T6 campervan build - how to wire up a CTEK charge controller for your house/leisure battery that deals with smart alternators in euro 6 engines. Also, pleased note, if you have a 2017/2018 T6 with a MOLL battery, it is likely faulty, you can get it replaced under warranty for a nice VARTA AGM. Thanks to the T6Forum.com for this wonderful information. #campervan #vanlife #camperconversion
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Please PM me or post a comment if you are interested in the DC-Mate - made in the UK. I'll get a link out soon, Matt is just starting production of these. Probably priced at around £25-£35...
Any news on the link for the DC Mate?
Matthew is moving house - I have just texted him to check.... sorry for delays.
Any news on the dc mate ?
Thanks
Hi bob... I’ll check with him again...
Bob Doncaster ... I’m asking mat for his eBay shop details then you can ask directly :-)
Getting good Howard! Am learning lots from this series!
Trust me! - I'm learning shed-loads on the job!! :-) We had another night away last night, the bed is too firm, have purchased a matteress topper that will sort it... Then, we need to get the loo in place !!!
Very slick setup I really like the remote display and fuse panel super professional
:-) Matt's power distribution board looks and works great! Thanks for your kind comments!!
Fun video. You can run the thin red cable from the CTek to the van fuse box without removing the centre dash. You can pull the mat out from under the dash on the passenger side and your in.
We couldnt seem to get the fuse box out, that was our problem... we needed access to the back of it to connect wires... Anyway, done now... :-) Thanks for your thoughts on this, I'll consider this if we need to get bac in there in the future!!
Dubious Engineering I just plugged it in from the front with a piggy back fuse.
Yup... the piggyback seems like a really good way forward!
Thanks for the video - very helpful. I'm looking to sort out a charging system for my 2018 T6 with a smart alternator and the advice I've been given is that I need to use the D+ output from the alternator as the signal since this is only live when the engine is running, not simply when the ignition is switched on. Is this what that fuse you wired from is providing or is it simply ignition on?
Yeah mine is ignition on... which is a bad thing really as if you leave your keys in... it stays on!! I always take my keys out. Go ahead and do a little more research... the T6 forums are a great place to find this kind of info.
@@DubiousEngineering Thanks for the response. I'll keep digging but I do like the simplicity of your solution!
I like the CTEK range used them since my bikuing days :-)
Yup! - I have a ctek trcikle conditioner for the bike too :-)
Nice video. You've probably encouraged me to move the position I had planned for my battery. What size cable did you use from the Van battery to the CTEK? Would you be able to list the items you are installing in the description? Thanks.
SOrry for delay, the CTEK only pulls about 20 amps, so I suggest you use the 3mm or 3.5mm cable. I properly over-engineered mine. I'll get a shopping list together at some point, but if you scour ebay or visit the "travelvolts" website, most of what you need is there...
Can't wait for the episode where you install the Flux Capacitor! :)
You actually got me thinking about creating a model of it and the LED time system... arduino controlled. But then I thought... it wont serve much purpose in the van... :-( I have decided not to do it yet as there are still so many other things to do!! :-)
Was it allowed for your battery to be mounted on any side or you did it out of way? It has been long time for you now, what is your opinion/ review about it now.
Can we mount all AGM/ deep cycle battey on it's sides. I have PowerSafe (SBS b14f 62ah) and Bosch (S5 A13), any suggestion? Thanks
Well, it continues to work well... sorry no idea on your setup... happy with what I did - works well three years in
Thank you
Now you've done it once you'll be able to do the next one easily. Looked a ballache of a job. Bet you slept well after it was done.
... a proper pain in the ass!... exactly as you say though, one day soon it will be done and we will be able to enjoy all the hard work!! :-)
Isn't 15.1v output a little too high? According to the CTEK manual for an AGM battery the output voltage should be max 14.7 volts when in the Bulk/Absorption stage then decline to 13.6v when in the float stage. Thoughts?
I admit this is bugging me a little... I’m going to have another look this weekend... that said, I expect the charger is doing what it should!! Best... H
I came here to say the same, maybe the meter in the distribution block is not super accurate. If the CTEK is hot, guess you could put it back in normal battery mode rather than AGM and that would lower the voltage a little.
Edit: just got to 11 minutes where you measured the voltage with a fluke and got 15 volts. So I would say that that CTEK is far over charging the battery which is really bad for AGMs because it will cause them to gas and lose capacity very quickly as they gas. It would be good to put the charger back into normal battery mode so that it didn't go above 14.7. If possible it would be even better to lower it to 14.4 it will charge a little bit slower but it will last longer.
@@DubiousEngineering The high output is part of the chraging profile called sulfate removal. Totally normal if youve just installed it to a new battery. You can see the different charging phases in the d250sa manual.
Yes agreed ... you are quite correct!
Hi m8, thanks for the useful video. Very helpful.
The isolation switch, did u wire it to isolate the ctec charging system or to isolate the voltage/power to the camper?
Yeah... the charger is always connected... the isolator is for the accessories like fridge, lighting etc... future video...
@@DubiousEngineering thanks for the reply m8... much appreciated.. Very helpful video 👍👌
Pleasure Mike!! Enjoy the weekend!! :)
Are you going to install an input for 240v? As it would be useful when at a campsite to charge battery, fridge,hairdryer etc! I would like to here your ideas as I have only ran a traditional split charger set before
Harry Higgins ... I’m planning to have a 12v 10amp switch mode plugged into the solar side of the battery charger!!
nice video. one question, do you know if that CTEK dc/dc battery charger also works as a battery splitter? so does it prevent the starter battery from going flat while the engine is not running or does it need a separate splitter?
Mark Alexander DeGiorgio yes it prevents the drive battery from discharging :-). It’s essential for the Euro6 engine...
Can I do what you've done with the CTEK & battery but put it all into a Mobile box? Use an Anderson plug for input power/earth and a seperate anderson plug for output to an inverter for example? Cheers 👍
Edit: The idea being to have the battery box in the car when using a roof top tent and then able to move it to a camping trailer
Absolutely yes!! That’s a great idea actually!!
@@DubiousEngineering Class! I presume you'd just have to extend the small trigger wire back with some sort of a plug to the boot/trailer? I've been contemplating a VSR as I don't have a smart alternator but I've heard horror stories of back feeding batteries etc. So I'm sold on the CTEK! 👍
I have a CTEK D250SE Dual Input 20A in my conversion and it’s currently only lighting up the alternator amber light any idea what the problem might be?
Ooooh - time to download the manual!! :-)
@@DubiousEngineering I have the manual but it doesn’t give that information I reached out to them thanks anyway
Does the ignition signal drop out when starting so the starter system does not draw high current through the smaller cable, fuses and connectors?
Hi Karl, not entirely sure I understand your question... the ignition signal doesn’t drop out. No small cables supply big current...
Hi, what gauge is your red and black wiring from main to second battery ? As doing same job using a 135 am AGM, and a cetk unit.
My wiring is too thick as the max the ctek draws is about 20amps... and trust me, in practice it’s much lower... so 3mm or 4mm cross section should be fine ... I think mine is like 7mm - it was originally for a split charge relay (which doesn’t work on T6 euro 6 engines)
Where did you get your AGM battery from and wot sizes ?
Ah!! You need to see my “fitting a leisure battery into a T6” video ... haha... the info should be there... sorry, as I can’t remember the details it was a year ago now :-)
Hey mate just set up the same system in my 2018 T6 but it seems to be running the starter battery low. Did you ever have any problems with this. Instead of coming behind the fuse board I used a piggy back fuse with 2x 5amp fuses on the camper fuse so should be working fine.... confused
Mine is always connected... there is a bad batch of starter batteries out there that are being replaced under warranty... if you make a MOLL battery, get it replaced :-). Check your CTEK powers down when the keys are out of the ignition... if you still have lights on the CTEK, your piggy back may be in the wrong place....
Dubious Engineering thanks mate much appreciated the negative light flashes green slowly I’m assuming that means it’s good. But light do turn off when keys are out... il check my battery
This is the first I've seen of this CTEK. Does it work with Lithium Ion Phosphate Batteries?????
Ahhh... Im sorry, no, it works with Pb (lead acid) traditional wet car cells and also AGM absorbant glass matt batteries... you will need an even more special charge management system for Lithium!
@@DubiousEngineering Understood. Too Bad! If CTEK does come out with a unit for LIFEPO4 Batteries, they will make a fortune!
You may well be right!!
Bruce Forster there is an upgrade due out this October ish that will work with Lithium batteries.
Check the RoadPro website 👍🏽
@@marklawrence64 .. thats great to know! Thanks!!
Hi there, what size is the cable from starter battery to service battery under the seat ?
Regards
Bernard
I used massive cable and it was totally unecessary as the max charge current will be about 10 amps - there's a company that sells the cable kits on ebay ...
Save money and just disconnect the smart alternator sensor plug from your negative battery terminal.
This reverts the Vehicles CPU/ECU to thinking it has a normal alternator fitted therefore you can use a normal liesure split charging relay system. Trust ive done it before and am doing it now 😉 (Depending on make/model of your vehicle)
Tell me how you get on... I’m keen to know, as without proper charge management the service life of the AGM batteries is significantly shorter... (according to the manufacturers)...
As a follow up, if you have standard lead acid batteries... it may we’ll work, but test the voltage isn’t too much higher that 13.8v
Does this not only effect the stop/start function (so increasing the environmental impact of the vehicle), but possibly other ECU controls ?
Quite possibly... everything will be running at 15-16 volts not 13-14... it may stress some components...
Interested in the D.C. mate
Also do I need to connect to the ignition as I have 73 t2
Thanks
Strongly recommend using a “split charge system” no need for the cTEK charger... this is much cheaper and more convenient... look it up on google... :-)
Hi do you know what to do with the small black wire from the ctek if I have a lithium service battery?
Thanks Conor
I didn’t know the creek 250could handle lithium... strongly recommend you do a little research or download their manual...
Aren’t you worried about everything getting to hot under the seat?
No problems so far been running for over a year :-)
What size cable did you use to run back to the fuse box? (white one)
Thanks rob.
Small cable... little 7 core bell wire....
Did you fuse this supply? I see you picked it up off camper display. Did you go into the front of the fuse box? Cheers for your help. I’ve got all the other bits in.
Perhaps watch the other videos... we did fuse the main supply, but put 40amp fuses... that’s a little heavy duty. Suggest 20 amp is sufficient...
Dubious Engineering I meant the white cable from the fuse box. I’ve sorted mine now. When into the camper display with a piggyback fuse and a 5 amp fuse.
And it works! Your video was a massive help.
robert crawford fantastic!! I don’t think I fused the control wire... glad the video helped... it’s always good to see how to so you have an idea of what to expect... thanks for your kind words!! All the best!!
How did u get the lower part of the dash out around the fuse box, struggling
Pop onto the T6 forums... they have some great,picture guides
Would have been nice to show how to wire into the ignition fuse
Sorry... just wrap it around a fuse blade... we went the next level and soldered it in...
@@DubiousEngineering cheers mate !
@@euromodeller Ive just ordered some piggy back fuses mate to make things easier for me, couple of quid of ebay
Is it possible to use a solar charge controller to charge leisure battery instead of using the solar input for solar panel use say ciggeret lighter socket from car connected to controller (at least to test theory first )
There is a solar input line to the CTEK but dont exceed 25volts. I actually plan to use this line in conjunction with main input by connecting a laptop power supply to it so that when were on mains hookup, we get to run the fridge and charge the batteries too :-)
@@DubiousEngineering what I have is a 18650 ,3s battery so it's 11.1v nominal and 12.6v optimal so I'm looking to try charge it in the van without the use of solar it's a 20p 3s configuration of 18650sim wandering but obviously very unsure if I use a bms a cigarett socket type plug fused and maybe a step up down converter to reg the volts it's the amps I'm worried about solar puts out say 18v and 5.5 amps what about a cars cig socket??
Is it a home brew 18650 battery bank or a proper BMS protected bank?
Either way, make sure you limit the voltage and the BMS should take care of the rest
@@DubiousEngineering it's a home brew matey with bms of 30 amp I fitted ,should I then set the converter voltage to the batteries optimum of 12.6 or like 18v of what a sloar would put out ,
Enjoy your vids but wonder why you show the complete battery/charger fitted at the start? Stop with the spoilers! 👍🏻🤣
that’s a hook :-) not a spoiler :-) .... happy new year mate!
@@DubiousEngineering oh! Didn’t hook me! Just made me fast forward! Sorry.
Aha!! Well I hope the video was useful anyway!! Thanks for your feedback!!!
Maybe you should make the solar panels charge the main battery or you won't be going anywhere at all.
Got it all sorted now... VW came to the house to replace my van battery as it was faulty and failed in warranty... :-)
You can pair the Ctek D250sa with the Ctek smartpass, this gives you the option to use the leisure battery to start the vehicle in the event the starter battery dies.
What made you go for an AGM battery? You are aware that despite manufacturer claims, they do still off gas and therefore require venting, especially in a leisure vehicle? "It is now universally accepted that AGM won't deliver the capability suggested by laboratory tests, often failing in miserably short times." 92% of failures due to drying out and corrosion. Also prone to poor temperature performance and life claims are highly overstated.
I wasn’t aware of this... and now I’m very worried... everything I read said this was the best way forward...
Take a look at this link. I found it very useful when deciding which batteries to go with on my van. www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/battery-technology.php?fbclid=IwAR0OcUBxGQiZuwbEdvcT_5yqGb__lSCfd79znOTRtjuPyF83r5vtb3_vXuo
I'm off to have a look now... thanks for the tip!!
Did you decide to vent the battery? What battery is the one your using?
I went AGM and Ctek charger... works flawlessly... no venting
Ya sen kesin türküsün bak bizim hareketler el hareketleri
ahhh…. if only I spoke Turkish! many thanks my friend! hugs!