Extra 40 Amps Charging into RV Battery Bank from Truck Alternator (Renogy 40A DC-DC Charger)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 лют 2020
- UPDATE - Max Off-Grid Charging Amps Test (Solar + Generator + Alternator) - • Max Off-Grid Charging ...
Wireless On/Off Switch Install - www.loveyourrv.com/12-volt-wi...
Shop the Renogy Website Via the LYRV Affiliate Link - renogy.sjv.io/KedOJ9
Renogy 40A DC-DC Charger on Amazon - amzn.to/2I5WgJP
I test how much amperage I can pour into my 315AH Lion Energy lithium battery bank at if I combine my 30 amp solar controller with a 60 amp Intelipower charge converter and my new 40 amp Renogy DC-DC charger. The battery bank was at a 50% state of charge during the test and all chargers were set to 14.4V.
In this informal test, it came out to right around 100 amps with all charging at the same time and around 85 amps with the generator and DC-DC charger from the truck alternator combined. All and all not bad.
See the previous video where I tested out using a Bogart SC2030 solar charge controller as a DC-DC charger via a temporary cobbled together setup - www.loveyourrv.com/alternator...
Disclaimer: Working with electricity can be dangerous. The following is for entertainment purposes only and should not be taken as instructional. If you decide to do the same, then research and beware of the risks involved. I don’t advise it without advanced knowledge of electricity. I accept no liability. You have been warned! - Ray
My Amazon Parts/Tool List:
Renogy 40A DC-DC Charger - amzn.to/2I5WgJP
60 Amp Switchable Breaker - amzn.to/2I60std
50 Amp Switchable Breaker - amzn.to/2I7LQJS
Battery Terminal Fuse Holder - amzn.to/2TaGCmL (if not already on battery)
60 Amp Terminal Fuse - amzn.to/2uGMZ7T
4 GA Cable - amzn.to/399C7P2
20 FT 100% Copper Booster Cables - amzn.to/2uGYhZX
Anderson Type Connectors - amzn.to/2PCM2Vz
4 GA Lugs and Heat Shrink - amzn.to/2TadEDt
Hydraulic Crimper - amzn.to/2Ta7yTx
Bernzomatic Torch - amzn.to/2Idb3SR
Vamplier Electrician Scissors - amzn.to/2uD6b6q
Uni-T Clamp-on Amp Meter - amzn.to/2vrxwcf
Related Links:
Lion Energy Lithium Battery Review Videos - www.loveyourrv.com/tag/lithium/
Making Custom Cables - www.loveyourrv.com/building-c...
My RV Mod Videos - www.loveyourrv.com/love-your-...
Boondocking Videos - www.loveyourrv.com/boondockin...
Bogart Trimetric WiFi Monitor Demo - www.loveyourrv.com/new-wifi-a...
VIAIR 12V Trolling Motor Plug Install - www.loveyourrv.com/viair-450p...
My Ram Truck Videos - www.loveyourrv.com/category/n...
Uni-T Clamp Meter - www.loveyourrv.com/electrical...
Visit the Love Your RV! Amazon Pages to shop a selection of my favorite RVing products, parts, and accessories
Amazon USA - www.amazon.com/shop/loveyourrv
Amazon Canada - www.amazon.ca/shop/loveyourrv
LoveYourRV is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com
-----------------------------------
Follow our RVing adventures at www.loveyourrv.com
Monthly Newsletter ► www.loveyourrv.com/mailing-lis...
Connect with Love Your RV!
Love Your RV Forum ► forum.loveyourrv.com
Pinterest ► / loveyourrv
Facebook ► / loveyourrv
Twitter ► / loveyourrv
Instagram ► / loveyourrv
Don't forget to Subscribe to the channel! ► ua-cam.com/users/subscription_c...
#LoveYourRV #boondocking #Renogy - Навчання та стиль
*UPDATE* - Max Off-Grid Charging Amps Test (Solar + Generator + Alternator) - ua-cam.com/video/Nt3CG5qeF5o/v-deo.html
Wireless On/Off Switch Install - www.loveyourrv.com/12-volt-wireless-switch-mod-for-my-40a-dc-dc-charger/
Shop the Renogy Website Via the LYRV Affiliate Link - renogy.sjv.io/KedOJ9
Renogy 40A DC-DC Charger on Amazon - amzn.to/2I5WgJP
Whilst some may give you stick about the drawing, it's content is perfectly to the point and is stylistically representative of my level of ability to understand this stuff!!! Bravo!
I have learned a lot from you over the years. I use this DC to DC smart charger in my Class B. I used to have the EcoTrek system, but I had it totally removed, and I use Renogy lithium's with this Renogy smart charger.
Cool, thanks for the feedback. I've had good luck with the Renogy panels over the years. Price was pretty good for the charger compared to others on the market. Cheers, Ray
Much better choice in connectors. Very good upgrade!
This was exactly the video I was looking for. We recently took a trip in our travel trailer and I noticed the truck would not charge my 2 AGM's while driving even though it would show an increase in voltage through the 7-way. After some research I found I needed a DC to DC charger to get the amps needed to charge my house batteries, and your video simplified the installation for me. The connection between the truck and trailer is where I was stumped. Anderson connectors, why didn't I think of that? LOL Thank you!
You're welcome, you should see a big improvement on charging, cheers, Ray
Thank you Ray That's a nice clean install!
Really excellent, comprehensive video. Thanks! I picked up some tips on terminal fuses and breakers in this--much appreciated.
Hi Ray, seeing your drawing of the truck and trailer all I could think about was that theme song to the Flint Stones.... Lol
thanks again...looking forward to long term report.
Yet another extremely well-presented tutorial. Thank you
Thank you for another great video Ray. I always learn something from your videos. 👍🏻
Thanks for this very well done video. I really liked the parts where you showed the actual amperage on your meter and amperage on the other info display. I used the same dc to dc charger, 4awg cable and anderson connectors but I was able to run the feed from the Anderson inside the 5th wheel overhang to the dc to dc charger mounted inside that front compartment. I also used a chassis ground like you did and when the lithiums were low on power, the amp meter showed 39.7 amps. FYI, I have the same truck and same clampon meter. That meter is a mini but the amp jaws can still open just enough to go on a 4/0 cable!
great system. a outher tip i used on a install was a voltage controlled relay tp turn on DC/DC charger trigger wire. set around 13.8V That way if alternator fails or engine stop no draw from start battery. newer trucks and cars use the computer to off set the voltage regulator using temp/time load etc. and is set for a start battery for long life. my ford came with 2 battery's and 2 alternators.
👍👍👍 Timely video. I just ordered this same charger a week ago and waiting for it to arrive. As usual for you, this an excellent and very thorough video. Thank you for sharing👍👍👍. Happy trsils‼️
love it, this dc to dc charger sava us a lot of generator runing time..
So awesome! Just subbed. Great info to be had in this video and also I was asking about Anderson connections to the truck bed and low and behold I just saw yours! 2 birds with one stone. I’m here to stay.
This makes a lot of sense and would be a great addition to a solar setup. I'll refer the Renogy Charger to the solar pros who will be installing and/or upgrading my RV system. Thank you!
You're welcome, just make sure you're alternator can handle the extra load. Cheers! Ray
@@LoveYourRV Thanks for the advice. If you have a few minutes check out Loloho's new video on a solar set-up. It includes the Renogy Charger. Very helpful information - for me to give to the solar experts! I'm not a DIY person when it comes to electricity. I just like to get a grasp of what I'm paying for. :-)
HSkyler
Paying experts.... get references from people doing what you’re wanting to do.
I worked for trailer place for a while. Behind the scenes proof of what I’ve always said: paying someone to install something so it works (even if the install “looks” good) is entirely different than getting it done well or properly. I can’t believe stuff I’ve seen people willing to pay for over the years! They just don’t know. They trusted an expert.
That's the charger I use. It not only charges my batteries while I drive but I can also charge my e bike or other electronics while I drive and when I land everything is fully charged. LOVE IT. I almost never use my solar panels now.
Charge while you drive? Makes a lot of sense sir. Thank you for your help. Have a great week.
very well done, exactly the setup I'm looking for, you just earned a subscriber
Thanks for the video Ray, I have been considering the same add to our RV; we dont have solar but also dont like to run the fridge on propane while in transit. Would be great to get to camp with full batteries!
Great video Ray, love all the info you share and hope to update my trailer soon.
*UPDATE* Max Off-Grid Charging Amps Test (Solar + Generator + Alternator) - ua-cam.com/video/Nt3CG5qeF5o/v-deo.html
I test how much amperage I can pour into my 315AH Lion Energy lithium battery bank at if I combine my 30 amp solar controller with a 60 amp Intelipower charge converter and my new 40 amp Renogy DC-DC charger. The battery bank was at a 50% state of charge during the test and all chargers were set to 14.4V.
In this informal test, it came out to right around 100 amps with all charging at the same time and around 85 amps with the generator and DC-DC charger from the truck alternator combined. All and all not bad.
See the previous video where I tested out using a Bogart SC2030 solar charge controller as a DC-DC charger via a temporary cobbled together setup - www.loveyourrv.com/alternator-charging-mod-12-vdc-truck-bed-high-amp-power-port/
Hi Ray, in my Class B, I can charge my LiFePO4 batteries up 60A via the alternator, even at idle!! Comes in very handy during inclement weather (normally use solar). The BMS splits the 60A to 30A per battery. Current slowly tapers off as they charge up to 100%. Much better than running my noisy Onan generator. Between solar and engine idling, I haven't used my generator (boondocking since November 1).
Joe, the whole point of the DC-DC charger is to isolate and properly charge the house batteries. The Renogy has a setting to use it with lithium type. As far as it goes the Renogy is one of the most affordable out there.
Yes, spending a bit extra on diesel but saving it on the portable generator gas. Which is more efficient I don't know that would be an interesting test, but I know its a pain to haul out the portable genny, especially if the weather sucks. ;)
Wow , good presentation Ray.
Hi Ray! Safe travels!!
At the end of the day I did run a full negative from the battery to the Andersen connector. I had the wire and said “what the heck”. Thanks for the feedback.
watched 4 dc to dc videos before this one. WOW everything i needed to know right here, filled my amazon cart as well thank you
You're welcome. :)
@@LoveYourRV one thing took a few rewinds to catch you mention grounding at the (pickup) frame. is that still working out, worried about issues down the road
@@billhackley3540 No problem so far. It saved me the cost and hassle of a run of wire on the negative return. My trailer manufacturer uses frame 12V battery grounds for the same reason and I've had it for over ten years with no issues. Every few years I clean and retighten them. The truck manufacturer obviously also has the frame connected to the batteries or else my frame return wouldn't work. I think the big concern would be the type of vehicle and its construction. Some these days have very little metal in the frames or are not completely connected, but my pickup truck uses large steel beams running the length of the truck.
@@LoveYourRV thank you i'll do the same, have spent a fair amount on lithium and low frequency inverter charger, have a fair amount in amazon still you've been very helpful. just got started in march with no experience
The trailer we just bought has 3-100Ah Lithiums, 600 watts of solar and has the same Renogy DC-Dc charger so this video will be helpful wiring up my 06 Ram.
Last time I wired solar etc was over 10 years ago and I used a Trimetric. (Think I'll use Victron in thhis new one) I noticed Bogart has a phone app now? That's pretty handy to be able to sit in the cab of your truck and monitor your RV batteries. Hope the Victron has that range.
Also it's pretty cool you answer practically every comment, even when they ask the same questions over and over. 😉
Love the production of your video. I have a Pilgrim 5th. wheel and a dodge ram diesel on the hook. I built a very similar system with same type of parts about 2 years ago. Wish I had seen your video, before racking my brains out to make this system. I still do not have a solar system, because I find that in northern Alberta we do not get enough sun to make a huge difference and warrant the input cost. But, I do have a installed generator for extended dry camping. Now, I am building a large out-put Lifepo4 battery bank, Great video, keep up the great informative work. Good health and rving. Dave
Thanks! I recently added a wireless on-off mod to my setup www.loveyourrv.com/12-volt-wireless-switch-mod-for-my-40a-dc-dc-charger/ Cheers, Ray
Thanks so much for this comprehensive video and list of components. It's very much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Ray!
Very helpful video, I am getting ready to instal 20a Renogy just like this.
❤Thanks for detailed info, links for purchase, and beautiful video
Great stuff. You doing good. Wishing you and all forever safe travels. 🌟🙏🚐🌎
Great Tips, Good Stuff 👍 Thanks!
That mod is fantastic. Okay, on your daily brainstorming which I presume might come to you at night in a revelation *lol* how about figuring a way to evaporate water into your fresh water hold tank. Great job Ray love it.
Use a dehumidifyer. It works!
...condense water... 😏
What a smokin' mod (well, actually I hope not 'cause smoke would be bad, lol)!
I really like the idea of the breaker up front and the quick disconnect between truck & trailer. Nice install. Ima go this way instead of the all-in-one from renogy bc I'm pretty sure my panels will be in series with too much voltage
Some users have experienced problems with the breakers overheating and tripping when they are mounted in the engine compartment. This is why I went with a fuse block and on/off switch.
you are a stud. so knowledgeable
you are super good Ray, thanks. William in Montana.
Nicely done!
Pretty cool device!
Thank you!! Great explanation!
Awesome job on the video.
Well done!
Great video! Very informative!
Hi Ray - I did basically the same with an isolator & breaker from Hellroaring Technologies. Per their recommendation I ran 8 ga wire & have an Anderson Connector mounted next to my 7 pin connector under the bumper. The other half of the connector is wired thru a marine fuse (saw them on your rig) running to my single 200aH AGM battery & it'll charge from 50% to 100% in about 2 hrs of driving.
yea ... thats the old school more expensive less effective way to go about it. as he mentioned, lithium batteries require a bit more finesse regarding voltage when charging.
After carefully reviewing your sophisticated drawing I have come a fairly concrete observation. You need bigger TIRES! LOL All your problems would be solved!
LOL. I was thinking the same thing!
Those tires remind me of the “Kilroy was here” cartoon from WWII. And, no, I’m not that old.
not sure if you guys gives a shit but if you're stoned like me during the covid times then you can watch all the new movies on instaflixxer. Been watching with my girlfriend these days =)
@Khari Coen yup, have been using Instaflixxer for since november myself =)
Never seen a pickup with a 1:1 ring&pinion setup rofl
this is one of the best videos to watch ,808 approved 👍
Thank You, you answered an important question for me….
I just received this DC to DC charger that I ordered, but then this week saw a video of a new version that has dual input for alternator and solar……so I was unsure how to couple this unit with solar, but you showed that you can couple them at the battery bank…..I was worried about reverse current shorting out the solar panels when the alternator or generator current started……thanks for easing my mind
Very helpful video. I am installing a 60A Renogy DC DC charger in my 2019 Ram 3500 Cummins. I decided to use 1 AWG wire and ran a both wires from the truck battery to the trailer rather than using the chassis ground. More money but I felt better about it. I have a 240AH LiFePo4 battery that I built with prismatic cells and the battery manufacturer stated the 60A was a better choice. The Renogy charger is a great product at a very fair price. Costs more for the wiring, Anderson plugs, and breakers than the Renogy unit but all in all well worth it.
60A is a good choice for the lithium batteries , just have to make sure that your Ram alternator can handle the extra load. On the input side of the charger it may be drawing around 70 amps. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV No worries Ray. My truck was set up at the factory for pilot car or snow plowing and has twin 220A alternators! I felt it was a shame to waste all that power! I really liked your video. It help me out a lot in my decison making.
Awesome!
@@LoveYourRV I have a similar setup to yours with 400W of solar on the roof. We have never run out of power in the summer months often boondocking for weeks with no issues. I wanted to be able to run the refrigerator on 120V when on the road, and the solar alone didn't allow that. Now with the DC DC charger we will be able to do that easily with no power issues at all. Inverter or inverter/charger install is next. Working on how to fish the wires 3/4 of the length of the trailer in the closed frame to accomlish that in the next few weeks.
Good job with the project. I would suggest enclosing all your wiring in split loom to protect it from rubbing.
Thanks, I chose cable with a double jacket that has an extra-thick outer layer but may add some loom in certain areas. Cheers, Ray
Thank you for a great video, good info.
We like and understood your truck drawing 😊
thank you im going to try it your wiring diagram all so solved my problem of how and wair to mount it thanks again
I recently purchased a lithium battery 170 amp hour from Big Battery. Comes with an Anderson connect rather than having the terminals exposed which I like, and it also has a shut off switch to turn the battery off from sending out any current. And for the price for 170 amp hours it’s like 900 bucks which is less than the Battle Born for one of theirs and has a 10 year warranty as well
Great video!
This is a huge deal for me. I have owned a fifth wheel and a travel trailer with 4 different trucks and none of them could charge batteries reliability going down the road.
The battery positive in the 7 pin connector hardly does anything for the battery's in a trailer. Now I know why and how to fix it.
I'm with you...i ran a camper on my Ford Superduty for 5 years and could never figure why it wouldn't top up the batteries after 4-6 hours of driving. with 14ga wire running nearly 30 feet I wasn't getting more than a couple amps per hour through the 7 pin.
I took Physics in HS (way too MANY moons ago) so forgive me for asking what might be a stupid question for those that are more electrically inclined - but - if the DC TO DC charger “BOOSTS” the charging capability, why do you need to run a separate and larger wiring setup for the entire route?
@@Abeaness Think of how much water flows in a small creek when the sun is shining. Then think about what happens when it storms and there is more water than the creek can hold. You end up with a flash flood. Its the same thing with electricity where amps is like the water current flowing in the creek. Only with electricity the byproduct of excessive current is resistance that causes heat to build and wires to melt. Another thing to consider is that a fully discharged lithium battery will eat current like a hog eats corn and can fry your alternator along with the wiring. Lithium batteries are suppose to have a built in battery management system to regulate current but not all BMS systems are created equal. The DC to DC charger regulates the amount of current and protects your alternator provided that the alternator is designed to handle the extra load.
Thanks for the video
Thanks Ray, you didn't say much about cost. I suspect you have as much money into wire as the cost of charger. That's OK as you do electrical installation correctly. Good Job.
Yes cable is a big cost as good copper wire is pricey that's why I tried to keep the gauge to 4GA, I have a parts and tools list in the description.
I was going to do same thing with my semi
Instead paying 5000 “EPU”
Finally found right video
Definitely go with a DC to DC charger, solar isn't dependable enough these days. Great video proving this, the charger was putting out 4times the amps as the solar.
Too much screen time
Good info. Over my head but I watched.
🙏🏻❤️🕷️🐢🔥🐦🦋🦎🤗💜
I put a off on switch that lights up when on. If you forget to shut it off , the lithium batteries will drain your start fry and that’s why I carry a Norco jump box when I have my camper on my dullay .
Nice learning experience video. I often wondered what to do once I convert the RV from flooded lead acid to Li battery when traveling. That's a goal for next year. By the way, I have the same TM-2030 & SC-2030 units and the Renogy 200 Watt folding suitcase Solar panels. I connect those together with the same 4 gauge weld wire on Anderson connectors to the SC-2030. I don't boondock as much, nor longer than 3 days, so if I do get the DC-DC unit, it would just be the 20 amp and I would connect into that same Anderson connection point. Because portable solar isn't deployed during travel and the Bogart set would be matched to Li by then. Combined with the existing trailer connector output I should have ~ 25 amps max; good since I only have the 170 amp alternator and only 2 batteries max.
In time, you may want to change that DC's output 40 amp circuit breaker. As you know and similar to the AC circuit breakers, they will handle full rated load but the 80% load is what code requires so you have a built in safety zone of 20%. So as for these DC breakers , I would recommend the same. Only load it to 80% , but it will trip over it's rated capacity. You never want to continue loading a circuit breaker to its full rated capacity as this would be asking for intermittent breaker trips and you might not know it. So a 50 amp breaker's 80% load would match nicely to your 40 amp loads. Happy Camping!
For just a little more dollars, I have a Abso DMT-1250 combination DC-DC charger, which handles 50 amps on a 12 or 24v alternator, and also includes a separate input for up to 500 watts of solar panels, optimized by an MPPT solar charge profile that can be adapted to AGM, Lithium, and even has a programmable profile for future battery custom profiles or if you want to limit the draw on your alternator. This solar port can also be used to wire in an AC to DC converter that will then be plugged into shore power. This Renogy is good if you don't want the extra flexibility.
Good deal for all in one, I saw Renogy had something similar amzn.to/38lh0ba but I have a solar system setup already with a 30 amp solar controller, so I can output up to 70 amps when combined, also have a 60 amp charge converter on-board for shore power, sort of like having the systems separate in case one fails. Cheers, Ray
Hi Ray any time you have 12v at the truck side of your charger it should be on. Run your trigger to the + side of the truck. Your ground for the rig side should go to the battery bank to get max amps to the battery bank. I am a retired car audio fabricator\installer 20 years.
You`re ready for the end of the world my friend period! Nice install i am impressed by all your system .I need to update if i want to keep up . Your drawing by the way is nicer than the new silverado HD i mean its really ugly. Cheers kept up the good work
I forgot to mention it also has a 300 amp fuse built-in to protect the battery
Very nice information.on my my 22 Dutchman 94 fifth wheel i did different charging sistem easy and cheap. I will make a video soon i got some time to spare..Just subscribed cheers from an Italian in Canada.
I See your summer project became the Spring project LOL I sure like how you connected the signal wire if we ever cross paths I’ll show you how I did mine kinda on the expensive side of things using the power wire in the tow lite plug
Yeah, so much easier to get parts off Amazon USA then CA. :) and cheaper! so went for it.
I just wired mine to the 12V wire coming from the 7 Pin RV plug. That output is switched on my truck and is only hot when key is on. So didn't require anything special.
@@boulderwy3387 Would you please provide details about where you connected to your 7 pin for the trigger? TIA!
Thanks for the video and it's very interesting!
That oscilloscope is fascinating. I"m no electrician or even too mechanically inclined but I'd prefer that type of device over having to connect wires to do a test. :) Just a thought from a novice armchair fan! =D
I heard there's a way some DC-DC charges can do the reverse also. Not sure how that would get done though, but it would allow the starter battery to be charged from leisure battery bank. Of course, it's not for every application.
I'm pretty sure this one doesn't support the feature. Not a big deal though I carry a booster box and could easily jump start the truck then take it for a little drive to recharge the starter batteries. Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Very nice, thanks.
Absolutely despise Renogy but this seems like a nice little unit at a good price!
Thanks for the video, I believe the gauge wire is based on distance and measured by voltage drop between the two ends of the cable. Saying the cable isn’t hot is a very poor measurement of what is going on. Beyond a horrendous undersized cable or bad terminal
Other then that some amazing detail on installation
If the cable is undersized the DC-DC charger will keep trying to pull more amperage through it to output the 40 amps to the batteries so knowing that the cable isn't getting too warm is a quick and easy way to know that the cable size is adequate for the amperage passing through it. Too warm and you know there is a problem. Too much voltage drop means to much resistance which translates into too much heat.
They make a large trolling motor plug hood for 60 amps that’s what I did and the bigger one is super nice and I have a Bigfoot truck camper and mounted the plug inside front side of bed. They say if you use too big of wire that the lithium’s will draw a ton of amps and burn or wear out prematurely, that’s what I ran 6 ga and so far so good no warm or hot wires.
The DC-DC charger will regulate the max current flow into the batteries. Doesn't matter how big the wires are the max output is 40 amps of the charger in this video. And actually a larger wire on the input side of the charger will lead to less current draw as there will be less voltage drop so it will draw less amperage to make the same wattage transfer.
LOL @ the sophisticated drawing....Thanks for the best laugh I've had all day Ray! I L♥ve your RV channel!
:)
You need the big trolling motor plug works perfect for me wires are cool no heat .
These connectors work pretty good too amzn.to/3FTU71G I used one when I built my truck box power station ua-cam.com/video/ztIYUGFQorE/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
Hi Ray, another great video. I was wondering why you didn't install the dc to dc in the truck for future flexibility?
Thanks, the manual said to located it as close as possible to the auxiliary battery being charged and protected from moisture and dust.
Charging limit is for battery size. A 40 amp charger will work perfect with 400ah battery. Or it could be used to limit the amp going to the battery an run other accessories.
Also, depends on the battery type. My old golf cart lead acid batteries recommended a charge rate of 15 amps, so I used to charge the 4 of them (combined 464ah) I had at near 60 amps. But my new lithium batteries are much different. Each 105ah battery has a max 100 amps charge rate and a 45 amp recommended rate. They can take a much higher rate of amps. So the 40A DC-DC charger would work well with just one.
How do you limit the amps going to the battery? Cheers, Ray
Thank you for taking the time to answer all these questions. Most of mine were answered as I read them all. I have one I didn't see though. I want to install this in an extra plastic battery box next to the one my single battery is located. What do you think of that. I would like to do this as my trailer is small and I don't see a good spot to locate it inside and have to drill a hole through wall or floor of trailer. Thank you for making such an informative video on this subject.
You are welcome! The only thing to be wary of if you put it inside a box is ventilation. When the DC-DC charger is working hard it gets hot, it has a fan inside and a metal case for cooling. So depends on the size of the box and the temps you travel in and if it has some openings for airflow. If the box is too small and sealed up tight the charger could overheat or have a reduced life span due to the electronics always running hot. Cheer's Ray
@@LoveYourRV Well there's a nice way to keep the Li batteries "warm" if traveling in really cold weather when charging is needed! Locate that DC-DC into your batt. box; you have opening cutouts enough I bet or add one more up high. Then once parked, stuff closed batt. box openings to hold that heat in for awhile. Free heat is free heat!
@@garyswitzer6867 Tat is an excellent idea but you still have to make sure there is enough ventilation to keep the DC-DC unit from overheating. It may be a difficult balance to find.
You also asked when you would use the current limiting feature. I have the 60 amp model and use it in hot weather and/or when I am using multiple accessories to take strain off of alternator. I also use it when my batteries are charged and I only want to run the refrigerator on AC
I should also note that you can install an on/off/on toggle switch in your fifth wheel where one switch sends power to D+ and LC, and the other switch only sends power to D+. I ran two wires from my coach to the tow vehicle and have the toggle switch on my dashboard so I can control it when driving. When the DC charger is pulling 60 amps it is causing the engine to use about 5hp to run it which makes a slight difference in fuel economy.
My 6.7 Cummins diesel doesn't seem to even notice the charger. I also have an optional oversized 220 amp alternator and bare-bones model truck as far as options, so there is not much chance of overheating normally. I have installed a wireless fob switch though, to have the ability to turn off the charger remotely if I want to. Usually, when I'm pulling steep grades, I turn it off. www.loveyourrv.com/12-volt-wireless-switch-mod-for-my-40a-dc-dc-charger/
@@LoveYourRV Very cool. I pull power from my running lights to power my backup camera. Can you configure the switch to power the running lights from the house batteries when you are parked? If so I could use my backup camera as a security camera when parked.
You could get a female 7-pin plug receptacle Example: amzn.to/3JRKRw8 and then wire in the wireless switch board so it can switch the running lights and 12V battery charge pin on and off www.ajtnt.com/portals/ajstruckandtrailer/7-Way-RV-Style-Trailer-Plug-Wiring-Diagram-2.png Then when you want to use it just plug it into the male end on the trailer. :) Personally, I just wedge a blade fuse in there to do it manually.
They have a higher amp trolling motor that is up to 60 and it’s just bigger for like 36 volt trolling motor that’s what I have and trigger wire goes to a switch so I can let every thing to warm up before I turn Renorgy 40 .
Nice presentation, I've been wondering what this dc to dc stuff was all about. My new truck came with a 400W max 120V outlet adjacent to the tailgate. I've toyed with the idea of using a 120V input charger in the bed or near the battery plugged into this outlet. I have a NOCO 7.5 amp charger that I carry to charge the truck battery from the LFP in the RV via the inverter (I've used that just once when I left the truck's internet on too long a year or two ago). But, it could also be used to charge to charge the LFP from the truck's 120V bed outlet (with ignition on). A larger unit with 20 amp or a bit more could also be used (need to assure less than 400W at the input).
Mr Clark that not good idea. You would be losing to much power going from dc to a.c. to dc again. 400 watts inverter could be a modified sine wave not good for running chargers etc.
Fred Thompson
That’s right! It’s too easy and inexpensive these days to do things like this cleanly and without extra stuff to do to make everything work (or worry about rain.)
Yeah, what everyone else said, way too much energy efficiency loss. But a better option in my opinion is to use a DC-DC x 20 amp unit and for the 12 volts, tie into the back 12 volt wires to that inverter. They should be thick enough for the 20 amp unit.
Hi Ray. As always, love your videos and appreciate you sharing.
We’re planning to travel 6 months out of the year for the next two years. We expect to be moving weekly and boondocking in our travel trailer whenever possible. I already have a generator and plan to add solar, two lithium batteries and a 2000w inverter. Our greatest consumption of electric will be the use of a microwave and hairdryer
Because we plan to move frequently, does it make more sense for us to skip the solar panels and just rely on charging our batteries with a DC to DC charger?
Thanks Donn! Personally I'd want the solar before the DC-DC charger unless I planned to be mostly traveling and camping in cloudy areas. It really nice to camp and have the sun recharge batteries quietly all day long. Cheers, Ray
Love Your RV Thank you for your quick response Ray. Stay safe and healthy.
Great run through on this! Very basic explanations which makes it awesome for my brain to understand. One question do you know if their measurements on wire are loop length or per line? Hope that makes sense
Here is the manual if you want to take a look - www.renogy.com/content/RNG-DCC1212-20-BC/DCC1212-204060-Manual.pdf I'd assume its a one way length measurement and not round trip. I can tell you that mine is 4 gauge wiring from truck battery to trailer batteries and it works well putting out close to 40 amps while drawing about 50 amps from the truck. My truck is a long bed so 21 feet long total. I've checked the cables after a few hours run time and no heating. Heavier gauge cables likely would lower the truck side amperage a little bit but drives the install cost up and harder to install them than smaller cables
@@LoveYourRV I also assumed the cable lengths were one way but after comparing to wire length/guage calculators out there, it seems like those lengths are round trip. Unless there is some reason I'm missing that they could be thinner for this purpose?
@@maylibu Usually the wire calculators are looking at the % losses in the wire but for this application, the DC-DC converter will just adjust and draw more amperage to compensate for any voltage drop in the cable so most concerned about the safe max DC amperage of the cable gauge. 4 gauge is good for 60-70 amps so we are OK. Going with a larger gauge will draw less amperage from the alternator but depends on how much a person wants to spend and a large wire is harder to run. I found my wiring drew about 50 amps to charge at near 40 amps so was happy enough with that. Especially since my heavy-duty alternator can easily handle the load.
@@LoveYourRV Thanks for your reply, that's helpful. My situation is a small camper van with the 20A version of the DC DC in the engine compartment. One-way length to my rec battery is about 12ft. I was originally hoping to use 10ga based on the manual, then after researching deeper I assumed I will have to go for 6ga instead. Now I'm thinking I can use 10ga after all. Does that make sense?
I personally would put some wire loom cover it what ever it's called and put the wires that are outside in it. To help with weather and stuff.
Good tip. I decided for the wire that runs under the truck I used stuff that is double jacketed. A tough inner wire covering plus a softer thick outer jacket for protection. I'll add some loom over that. Cheers, Ray
the limiter is good for if you are just idling
Hey Ray, great video. Thank you! Wondering if you could clarify one thing for me. The return cable (negative cable) from the input just connects to your truck's chassis right? Would this still work if I am doing this on a van and it's sharing a chassis ground with the house battery? Would love to save money on that negative cable.
Thanks Scott. Yes, It should work, as its working like that for me. My truck frame gets attached to my trailers when hooked up through the metal hitch to the pin box so its connected to the trailer frame and my trailer batteries negative are hooked to the trailer frame. So effectively both are sharing the same ground. The only caveat is the van frame and how well it will conduct the electricity, my truck has large heavy beams, thick frame, not many joins, so no issue. Some vehicles have more complex frames with lots of joined pieces and sometimes that can create resistance greater than using a dedicated negative cable especially if the vehicle is old and may have some corrosion. but doesn't hurt to try. Cheers, Ray
I love the idea of just tagging onto the SCC output. So if you were in a motorhome I assume you would have just used the keyed ignition on lead for your trigger? This is so the dc dc charger doesn't drain your starting battery after your engines off.
You can use any 12V trigger source you desire. What ever works best for you. Cheers, Ray
Great for using a LA charger to LIPO battery without replacing the charger.
Nice setup! Two questions:
Can the dc/dc charger be set to cut out at a particular input voltage? You have enough alternator and are unlikely to leave the park lights on, but in some applications it would be nice to ensure the start battery won’t over discharge…
Never had li-ion, but I understand their C rating drops when below freezing and they can be destroyed by trying to charge too many amps when cold? Do the batteries have bms to protect them?
No, it doesn't so most people will wire the trigger to the vehicle ignition circuit so only runs when the vehicle engine is on. Recently, I've also added a wireless remote to my setup www.loveyourrv.com/12-volt-wireless-switch-mod-for-my-40a-dc-dc-charger/
yes, my Lion Energy batteries have a built in BMS that shuts off charging and discharging when too cold to protect the lithium cells. I did some tests using a deep freeze www.loveyourrv.com/lithium-rv-battery-deep-freeze-test-lion-energy-safari-ut1300/ Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Nice. Looks like a slick setup.
Hey ray what terminal size lugs did you use on the safari 1300? And what size on dc to dc connector please. Thanks love all your videos stay safe
Thanks, My Safari UT1300 battery bank is wired with 2/0 GA cables and lugs. I only have a 1000 watt inverter but sized the cables with maybe future plan to up that to a 2000 watt inverter. For the DC-DC charger I used 4 GA it puts put a max of 40 amps. Here is another video I did recently ua-cam.com/video/Nt3CG5qeF5o/v-deo.html tested the system using solar, DC-DC and generator power all at the same time. I used the DC-DC a few times on the drive home during rainy days it worked well. Cheers! Ray
Hi Ray, great video as usual! One question for you, do I need to disconnect the 12V line in the 7 pin plug to prevent the drawn on the alternator?
Thanks. :) That can vary depending on your vehicle wiring. For my Ram I left it the way it was, it puts out such low amperage anyway. I did a demo video showing that here www.loveyourrv.com/7-pin-tow-cable-charging-tests-using-lithium-rv-batteries/ Cheers, Ray
All this is nice, long as people are aware, alternators arent designed to charge batteries, they maintain a charge an power everything while driving, so placing more load on it can drastically shorten life span of alternator
Very true, that's why its a good idea to get the higher output alternator option or even go with dual alternators.
@@LoveYourRV i know on semi when over road i had microwave, tv, etc soon as got home i put charger on it an had good luck, do same with class C on engine batt, have solar on coach batt
Just had one installed. Going on a cross country very soon. Thanks for all your knowledge. Looking forward to having full batteries while boondocking. Do you drive with your refrigerator on electric instead of propane? I seems like it should be no problem for the 40 amp to keep up with a 12 cubic. ice box..
Thanks again
Bob T
So far I haven't, maybe I will at some point but honestly we have never felt the need to have the fridge running during travels as the food stays cold enough since we are opening the door. We don't travel much in high temps and travel days are usually limited to around 4-5 hours. Most times I also have something defrosting anyway. Cheers! Ray
Thanks for the video! Can you tell me what you mean by "spliced into the 12v for the side marker light" ? I'm trying to figure out exactly what to attach that trigger wire to, and how to do it. Thanks for the help!
Another way of saying T-tapped into the power wire that supplies the marker lights. I used solder but there are connectors that are quite popular called T taps used in automotive wiring. amzn.to/3gVSzsX
I used my marker light power wire as it was convenient for me since I always have them on when towing but any switched 12V power will do. A wireless 12V switch may be a cool way to do it. amzn.to/2QPLrn1 Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV Ahh Ok thanks for the clarification. I was thinking I had to run it all the way back up to the bus' fuse box, but I see you are saying you just spliced right into the wire running to those lights. Got it. Thanks!
Very helpful video for my installation!! Did you disconnect or remove the “trickle charger” from the hitch plug?
Thanks, happy it was helpful. No, I just left the stock tow cable hook up as is.
...the ‘hitch plug’ should never be disconnected- it’s supposed to keep your brake battery charged.
Most RVs use the house batteries for the breakaway brake battery: not a good idea imho. I always install a ($40) kit to power the brakes and make them independent of the ‘house’ batteries.
What he did here is the right way to charge from the vehicle. If he had 4 100W panels and three 100Ah batteries he would be nearly perfect imho!
Is there anything that has to be done to the truck pin connector, truck fuses to the pin connector, or to the standard 5th wheel cable? Thx for a great video!!
No, I didn't need to touch the tow cable on the truck. Cheers, Ray
Quick question on the wiring to the trailer light connection. On a Ford The #4 trailer pin usually is the Aux12V+ going to the trailer and is only on when the ignition is on. When I do mine, would this work just as well and not need to worry about the lights?
Thanks for the great video.
Sure, any switchable 12V source should work fine it takes very little amperage. I decided to go with the marker light 12v versus the ignition so I could let my diesel engine warm up a bit before turning on the DC-DC charger if I wanted to and it was easier than running a dedicated switch.
@@LoveYourRV Another option to think about. Thanks again.
It runs my 12 volt AC unit on truck camper that’s why 6 gauge wire it’s so short wires .
Make a jumper cable with the Anderson connector and it is great for backing up to someone and giving them a junp
Good tip, but I carry a better solution for jumping starting :) - www.loveyourrv.com/noco-gb150-battery-booster-review/
@@LoveYourRV I just viewed the video in the link here. And a bit confused ? You say your Cummins is a 7.3? Did you mean it is 6.7?
BTW good informative video as usual. cheers
@@rjl7765 That was an older video from 2017 when I had an old 1994 7.3L Ford F350 - www.loveyourrv.com/big-baby-blue-1994-ford-f350-truck/ now I have a 2018 6.7L Cummins in a Ram 3500. Cheers, Ray
My truck came with the 440amp dual alternator setup, do you think I need this charger, or will I be able to wire directly to the lithium batteries when I do that install this summer.
I'd advise the DC-DC charger, as it isolates the different batteries Trucks and Trailer and boosts the voltage for the long wire run and has adjustable charge settings for the RV batteries. For some good info on them try a UA-cam search "dc-dc charger Australia" They use them a ton down under. Guess for their outback adventures in their off road vehicles.
Alternators are largely designed for lead acid batteries. You have lithium. If the alternator is connected directly to the lithium battery, the battery can pull too much charging current. There's a video on here that shows an alternator burning up in this configuration. The DC-DC charger limits everything to safe values. You've invested in a good truck and a good battery. A few more $s to protect those investments is worthwhile.