You are a part of a dying breed of teachers, who are genuine experts at two things - 1. having comprehensive knowledge about the subject and 2. transferring that knowledge effectively!
@@ConquerDriving Most driving teachers are experts at driving but they don't know how to teach and can't explain things well enough. That's how my driving instructors are, and I have to use UA-cam videos like this one (and lots of others from this channel) to fill the gaps. Thank you for making these videos, good sir!
i know Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
my instructor here stressed me out super bad and gave me a bad learning experience, but by just watching a few of your videos I've really improved my driving skills. You are one gem of a teacher! You'll always have my gratitude :)
I've made the mistake of releasing the clutch too fast when going into first gear from a stop, because I was afraid of wearing out the friction material. Also, my shifts aren't always as smooth as they should be. Since I'm still relatively new to driving a manual, occasionally I still release the clutch too fast. Then my car bucks like a bull at a rodeo, especially when going into first gear. This video was super helpful. Before I saw this video, I had no clue that the bucking is really bad for the transmission, and that I shouldn't worry about holding the clutch at the bite point for a little bit. I'll be a lot more careful now with how I drive. My concerns were misplaced - I was concerned about wearing out the friction material, when it was the bucking I should have worried about.
You're more than welcome. I used to think the same. Don't hold it on the bite point to keep the car still on a hill and keep the revs below 2000rpm when setting off and the clutch should not overheat.
@@ConquerDriving My car, a US spec 2020 Corolla Hatchback has a couple nifty features that help out with hills - a brake hold and an electronic parking brake. The first is for slight inclines, and the latter is for steeper grades, such as hills or highway off-ramps. They automatically releases when you start moving forward. So, the good news is, I'm never tempted to use the clutch to hold on a hill. With my car, you can be sitting still on a hill, and have both feet on the floor. Modern technology is great! Anyway, thanks for the tip, I'll be careful to never rev the engine above 2,000 rpm when setting off. Naturally, I want my clutch to last for hundreds of thousands of miles.
after this video I went 25 mins 15 secs into the future. You explained in an interesting way and so much practical way that I didn't noticed how time went by, loved it. Keep it up.
@@ConquerDriving Very very good explanation of the clutch system and how it works...Richard,but in terms of the clutch system components or parts that are usually changed for when doing repairs,you forgot to mention one of the very most important part, that of being the pilot bearing or pilot bushing,which plays a very very much important part in keeping all those other clutch parts to work in an orderly manner for your clutch's longevity......but a very very good video I must say nevertheless once again.....👍
Great teacher...got over many of my fears watching your videos...you're calm, precise, your dont leave anything unexplained...thanks a lot. You're great at your job and will always recommend your videos to new drivers to get over any fears or phobias....keep up the great work!!!
So I can drive a Manual Trans. But I feel like I have been doing something wrong. I've also wanted to have a better understanding of how the full system functions. Your in depth explanation is kind of that eye opening moment. Thanks for taking that time to be thorough! Liked and subscribed!
Your videos are great and super useful! I'm a nervous learner and I struggle with the order of doing stuff and best practices and your channel has helped me so much - thank you!!
I really appreciate your videos. youre doing a great job man! Im a new manual car owner and I believe this channel helped me get better at driving it much quicker.
So what I'm getting from a few of your videos is...don't be afraid to hold the clutch and let it do what it is meant to do! Thats the part I've been struggling with. Afraid to use the clutch longer than switching gears or taking off, which in turn is causing bucking takeoffs. Higher gears has been just fine, I've been slowly letting off the clutch. But yeah all in all the videos I've watched from your channel have helped so friggin much. Im anxious to get back in to my used car and learn some more! Thank you!!
You're welcome. I remember feeling the same about the clutch but I have so much experience with them now I've been teaching for 12 years I've learnt what really wears them. Letting it smooth out gear changes and move away smoothly is fine.
Reminds me of the channel Engineering Explained where he is sat in a car and has transmission parts on the passenger seat... good video, nice and indepth, hope it takes off :)
Great video. It helped explain how I burnt the clutch that one time when I was still pretty rubbish at driving and trying to do a hill start. These days I'm better and I don't hold the bite at a hill, if I'm going to be stationary for more than a few seconds I go straight into neutral and onto the handbrake.
Dear Richard. Thank you for this fantastic video. I have not driven a manual car for over 10 years, and I have recently got a manual Miata. I feel quite rusted. :D I love watching your videos, to remind myslef, or maybe rather re-learn how to drive a car with manual transmission. Your videos are super helpful, and I enjoy your demonstations very much. You explain everything so well, and you are a great teacher. A big shout-out to you from across the pond! I'd love to see your fun car. :)
Thank you, here are a couple of videos of it. I've now sold it and have a 100th anniversary MX5. ua-cam.com/video/gOR-MVrRQqQ/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/E5wZlpnTu4I/v-deo.html
@@ConquerDriving Thanks for sharing. It was an unique roadster, with a lovely sound (at least the modified one you had). Though it seems that car had a list of problems (I enjoyed your video more than JayEmms's). The MX5 should be more comfortable. :) Congrats on the 100th Anniversary Edition. It is a beauty. Mine is a red one with white interior. I have it only for a week, now, but it is such a fun car to drive. I am going to watch your review of MX5, and I hope you will have more of MX5 videos.
A good way to show the counterintiutive movement of the diaphragm spring are these small round metal boxes sometimes used for mints. The way to open them is to push on the lid, it then does the same movement as the diaphragm spring.
Really interesting stuff! Just started learning how to drive and this channel has given me great information so far. I need just a little more help to understand the clutch better. Which of these situations is actually happening? 1. The friction disk is always in contact with the flywheel. The force from the pressure plate and clutch bearing determine whether there is enough friction to be engaged or not. (This seems great but wouldn't friction disk and flywheel would both wear out?). 2. The friction disk is never in contact with the flywheel. The friction disk only engages when it is in contact with the pressure plate. (This seems to work but I wonder if the friction would be enough from just the pressure plate) 3. The friction disk is sometimes in contact with the flywheel. The pressure plate causes the friction disk to come in contact with both the flywheel and pressure plate when it is engaged. (This also seems to work but how would the friction disk move through space? No forces or devices, to my knowledge, are there to keep it in between the plates without contact.) After watching your video I think it is 3. But once again how would it move from engaged to disengaged. Nothing seems to be holding it in place.
I see what you're saying. The friction disc will not make contact with the pressure plate or the flywheel when the clutch is down because the fast rotation of both the pressure plate and flywheel will effectively kick it fiction disc off. There will only be wear with pressure, not slight contact. The brake pads work in the same way, it's not like a bicycle that needs a return spring to move the brake pad away from the brake discs. In a car simply releasing pressure of the brake pads will be enough, the pads are always gently touching the disc but as there is no pressure no braking or heat is generated. However unlike the brakes, there is actually a small 1-2mm gap between the friction disc and pressure plate and flywheel when the clutch is down. If something makes contact with something spinning fast it will be pushed away if it's the path of least resistance.
i drive to the blue mountains and my clutch started slipping on the freeway. when i was comming back it was sliiping constantly and i was strugling to get going at trafic lights. it was time to replace my clutch. both me and my brother lernt to drive on the car. ( i brought it off him ) when i replaced my clutch ( did it my self with my dad ) the friction matiral hade worn to the point it was smoth and the fly wheal was toast as well. it hade over 315,000 km on it. i was going to change the fly wheel with my clutch weather it was still working or not becuse it was a dual mass flywheel. After the new clutch i wasent prepeardef for hoe low the bite point was and kept spinning my tiers. hade it for about 3 months and it feels so good.
"Learners... don't know how to drive yet. They're with me TO learn how to drive." Thank you so much for this statement. My driving instructors never understood this concept. They would tell me to do some fancy driving skill & then sigh & insult me when I couldn't do it. I even said, "This is driving class. Of course I don't know how to perform this task. That's why I'm here. Aren't driving lessons supposed to be for teaching people who don't know how to drive how to drive? Why would I be taking this course if I already knew how to do all of this?" I never got an answer to my query. They were willing to pass me off on tasks I never learned, part of why I have a complex about my driving ability. At least I have never been in a wreck, but I avoid certain maneuvers. Thank you so much for these excellent videos. They are truly a Godsend. (I wish UA-cam had been around in the mid-90s when I was learning how to drive!)
@@ConquerDriving Thank you so much for your encouraging reply. While video watching is obviously no substitute for actual driving practice, I do find getting expert perspectives tremendously helpful for learning what I should be doing. The remote experience of watching an excellent teacher like yourself explain the process is extremely beneficial. I really appreciate your videos, & I have gained a lot more confidence & understanding just from watching them. I don't have reason to drive much at this point in my life, but I have a lot more knowledge & awareness than I ever possessed, even in the past when I drove much more frequently. Just because someone has reached whatever age & survived driving, might legitimately be a good driver, perhaps passed whatever requirement to become a driving instructor, does not by any means guarantee he or she has the temperament or ability to break down the process & teach it to someone else. (True for much more than driving.) Your videos serve a much-needed purpose, & I am enjoying your channel!
I've driven manuals for 20 years now, and subscribe to your videos. I have learnt the way to drive modern clutches is different to how I was taught, so thank you. I have a sports car and I get the harsh contact and jolt through the car no matter how much I hold the bite point in first (other gears are fine). It doesn't seem to happen if I am increasing revs through the release though. Any thoughts/comments?
You're welcome ☺ Some clutches do bite hard, adding more revs will increase slip making for a smoother transition. As long as the revs are below 2000 rpm you should be OK because as soon as the bite point is reached the hard clutch would bring the revs down anyway.
I recently overheated the clutch on the uphill approach to a roundabout as I was already halfway ready to move away when a fast car emerged and I had to stop again. So as it was uphill with another car behind, I wanted to go quickly and not stall so I ended up over-revving while moving away twice within a couple of seconds. I've been driving for almost a year now but it was the first time that I treated the clutch so badly that I could actually smell it (haven't done so even while learning). It was awfully scary as I thought I could really damage it. But now, if I get it right, I'd actually have to do it regularily to make it wear out. Btw, now I can explain in details to my mum what's the benefit of me putting the car to neutral on waiting ^^
Hi Rich, hope all is well, Could you make a video explaining rights of way and who has right of way and where? I'm struggling to find a good video on it
I feel like you love the clutch by all means because of how many videos you made about it. But it helps everytime so why not. ^^ Btw, you have pretty arms lol.
This video really helps a lot. I confuse in something. I always do double clutch/revmaching, when I downshifting from 3rd gear to 2on gear always under 1500rpm for being smoother possible and not overhead the clutch. Actually it's better for the transmission and the clutch, do revmaching or double clutch, or it's more recomendable release the clutch slower for being more smooth downshifting.? Thanks
Good explaining about clutch bro 👏👏👏 Need some assist here bro...how do you judge the braking distance from the hazardous without braking too late or early?😭😭 I'm still struggling on this matter and I'm keep trying to get in right
Start braking very early and gently, focus on the point where you're trying to stop and gradually increase the brakes until you feel you may finish stopping just a tad too early, when you get close you can release the brake a bit to smooth things out and finish getting to your target. At your target you may need to brake a bit more to stop.
Thank you for this! You mentioned the clutch peddle feeling notchy, and that rattling sound you demonstrated, but what are the other signs of any of these clutch components being on the way out or dead?
@@ConquerDriving Thank you very much! Only been driving 2 months, and my car is 12 years old, with 115k miles on it, so I am wary of something happening to the clutch, particularly as I am new, I might finish it off haha!
If a clutch (2nd one) was worn down to the rivets on the pressure plate side only after 30k miles. What would be your diagnosis based on that. Assume I treated the clutch decent also and car has 130k miles. Thanks
Hi, Richard love the videos quick question you seem to be really knowledgeable in the mechanics of cars. would you ever consider doing a DIY car fix channel I love your way of teaching and I think you would be the UK version of Chris Fix! Also, would you replace your own clutch on your driveway knowing what to do or do you take it to a mechanic for the ease of thinking of replacing my clutch myself and just wonder what your experience was like?
I would enjoy doing such a channel but I don't have time for mire projects. I have replaced a clutch in the residential car park where I live but I wouldn't do it again, too heavy, such a job really needs a two post lift to get the car in the air. I usually do minor jobs and diagnose issues then get a garage to do the work I specify if it's too heavy for me.
@@ConquerDriving Yeah I agree Looking to do a clutch in my little I10 hoping it will be ok as it only has a small 5-speed tranny with a 1.2L engine I love working on my car only just passed my test. If you ever retire from being an instructor you can always be the next Chris fix :)
Yes, I've been reassembling it all day today. It's been quite a comprehensive lock down restoration. Probably finish it by the end of the week. It's a Vauxhall VX220.
Maybe i am wrong, but if the brand new disc's thickness is 8.3mm and the used one is 7,3 mm, then it worned only 1mm, which means 0,5-0,5 mm side by side.. You mentioned 1-1mm on both side.. from 15:30.
Does it wera the clutch for example if you are at low revs in 4th doing 20-30mph and accelerate as it has to acomodate to build up the speed? for example approaching a roundabout where little stopping is required as no traffic is coming. Would it be better to change down a gear to third and then change up again?
I'm worried I may have damaged my dad's beloved car, a 1.6T Focus running diesel. I've passed my test but unfortunately still making mistakes here and there as I get used to driving by myself now. Was driving at 30mph on a big road through a village when approaching a lorry parked on my side of the road. Seemingly no other traffic around, I planned to drop to 3rd gear from 4th to overtake but somehow ended up putting into 1st (rookie error, I know, but I passed my test 6 years ago and am just coming back it!). The car is obviously not too happy and the back wheels lock, kind of feels like I've randomly attempted to perform an emergency stop but with way more engine screaming. Almost as soon as I've put it into 1st I realise my mistake and take it straight back out of gear, rev the engine to match to 3rd gear and it seemed to be good going into 3rd (I didn't actually stop, I was probably about 10-15mph still approaching the lorry when I put it into 3rd because it all happened so fast). (Also now I think about it maybe I should have gone into 2nd instead but I felt at the time the car was screeching for the higher of the two gears). Now I'm terrified I've knackered the clutch but I drove the car for 20 mins after and it seemed normal? Which part of the clutch might I have damaged? Love your videos by the way, so so useful and well explained!
Thank you for the compliment. I wouldn't worry about it, you are unlikely to damage the transmission doing it once. No need to rev match for up shifts.
I just wanted to ask a question. If the clutch pedal creeks when you press it down does the actual pedal need replacing or does the actual clutch mechanism itself need replacing?
If it creaks the pedal itself most likely just needs lube. I've found yellow Vaseline works well. Or some silicone grease if you have it. Avoid copper grease where ever rubber is present.
Hello, I have question about downshifting for better and longer engine braking. Is rev matching the engine to let’s say 3000 rpm and then holding the clutch in the bite point for like 1,5 second, when the engine speed is at 2800-3000 rpm matching with the gearbox, is it wearing the clutch? It’s hard to rev the engine to the correct rpm in my diesel car, and the revs don’t fall instantly after releasing the gas pedal but like after a second
@@ConquerDriving sure, I was wondering, because you’ve said that moving off from 3000 rpm is instantly burning clutch, so i’ve thought that the same thing happens while rev matching in higher engine speed
hello i have two questions. 1st is Why does a car experience jerk when you leave the clutch suddenly in the first gear but doesn't when it's in the third gear or so? and 2nd is why we need to let go off accelerator while pressing clutch and changing to higher gears? pls explain this
Lower gears and particularly first has more torque than higher gears so the extra torque of the engine will jerk the car more easily, in 5th gear the engine has little torque so it would be the engine that changes speed instead of the car when you lift the clutch up quickly.. There is always a jerk, just sometimes the car jerks or the engine speed (rpm) jerks.. You won't notice the engine speed jerk though. If you don't let of the accelerator the engine speed will shoot up.
So with the clutch disengaged there is gap between the friction plate on both pressure plate side and flywheel side correct? If not then why is there friction material on both sides
Pausing at the bite point will help when setting off and going to gear two. This video should help for how long to pause: ua-cam.com/video/AHna4amcsnE/v-deo.html
Found this out holding the biting point in my new car at mcds very long drive thro queue on a bank scared to stall.. car started smoking.. I dont do tht now 🤣
HEY RICHARD i just bought a skoda octy 2 manual at first i was very good to find bite point now it always stalling or skidding and sometimes i catch the bite point does that mean my clutch is bad ???
Unlikely, if there was a problem with the clutch it would do it everytime. Maybe try doing things more carefully for a while and see how it goes. I would guess you used the clutch more slowly when you got the car and now you're doing things a bit too quickly.
Hello my friend I want to ask about if I doing a clutch and gas when I get a clutch biting pint simultaneously ? What's can happen ? And why rev match doing in a in lower gear as well direct drive and over drive? Thanks my friend in Arabic called شكرا صديقى
You should get the clutch bits point with gas, without gas most cars will struggle. I need to do a video on rev matching. Rev matching allows for smoother and faster gear changes.
Lots of wheel spin normally. I'd never dump the clutch as it doesn't lead to a good start. Very high but not dump. It's finding the optimal height to get as much power to the wheels as possible without wheel spin.
Conquer Driving brilliant. I have more of a hyacinth bucket wifey. She whinges just on some super light carbon super bike bicycle parts !! Not even heavy oily car bits. Lotus or other !!!!
4000rpm and bite point would burn your clutch very quickly. In these video I did mention keeping your revs low. Certainly below 2000rpm. In a car without much torque using lots of revs and bite point will increase your power and therefore allow you to set off more quickly but it will be detrimental to the clutch.
let’s say ur going 30mph in 4th gear coming up to traffic lights, would holding the clutch down until u reach the traffic light to a stop, wear the clutch
The more you hold it down the more the release bearing is active. Better to hold it down only when needed. This video may help: ua-cam.com/video/kLGpfdRFxxU/v-deo.html
Perfect cheers my last car the clutch would kick in with a tiny lift of the peddle this new one diesel with dmf seems to travel ages until it kicks in and also feels like the peddle dips back down a tiny bit when lifting so this makes sense I think😂 hopefully isn’t on its way out
You are a part of a dying breed of teachers, who are genuine experts at two things - 1. having comprehensive knowledge about the subject and 2. transferring that knowledge effectively!
Thank you!
@@ConquerDriving Most driving teachers are experts at driving but they don't know how to teach and can't explain things well enough. That's how my driving instructors are, and I have to use UA-cam videos like this one (and lots of others from this channel) to fill the gaps. Thank you for making these videos, good sir!
i know Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@@simongage6752 try forget password!
I'd say the only expert @@ConquerDriving
If it's hard enough to understand imagine what genius it takes to come up with this for the first time, holy smokes.
even though i passed my exams, i doubt ill ever stop watching your videos. Keep up the good work!
Thank you ☺
my instructor here stressed me out super bad and gave me a bad learning experience, but by just watching a few of your videos I've really improved my driving skills. You are one gem of a teacher! You'll always have my gratitude :)
I've made the mistake of releasing the clutch too fast when going into first gear from a stop, because I was afraid of wearing out the friction material. Also, my shifts aren't always as smooth as they should be. Since I'm still relatively new to driving a manual, occasionally I still release the clutch too fast. Then my car bucks like a bull at a rodeo, especially when going into first gear. This video was super helpful. Before I saw this video, I had no clue that the bucking is really bad for the transmission, and that I shouldn't worry about holding the clutch at the bite point for a little bit. I'll be a lot more careful now with how I drive. My concerns were misplaced - I was concerned about wearing out the friction material, when it was the bucking I should have worried about.
You're more than welcome. I used to think the same. Don't hold it on the bite point to keep the car still on a hill and keep the revs below 2000rpm when setting off and the clutch should not overheat.
@@ConquerDriving My car, a US spec 2020 Corolla Hatchback has a couple nifty features that help out with hills - a brake hold and an electronic parking brake. The first is for slight inclines, and the latter is for steeper grades, such as hills or highway off-ramps. They automatically releases when you start moving forward. So, the good news is, I'm never tempted to use the clutch to hold on a hill. With my car, you can be sitting still on a hill, and have both feet on the floor. Modern technology is great! Anyway, thanks for the tip, I'll be careful to never rev the engine above 2,000 rpm when setting off. Naturally, I want my clutch to last for hundreds of thousands of miles.
This was really interesting. I now know how the clutch looks like and understand better how the clutch works. Thanks for this video.
You're welcome!
after this video I went 25 mins 15 secs into the future. You explained in an interesting way and so much practical way that I didn't noticed how time went by, loved it. Keep it up.
Thank you, really nice to hear that!
You actually helped me not disappointing my dad when he let me drive the car😂
I'm happy to help 😊
@@ConquerDriving Very very good explanation of the clutch system and how it works...Richard,but in terms of the clutch system components or parts that are usually changed for when doing repairs,you forgot to mention one of the very most important part, that of being the pilot bearing or pilot bushing,which plays a very very much important part in keeping all those other clutch parts to work in an orderly manner for your clutch's longevity......but a very very good video I must say nevertheless once again.....👍
Great teacher...got over many of my fears watching your videos...you're calm, precise, your dont leave anything unexplained...thanks a lot. You're great at your job and will always recommend your videos to new drivers to get over any fears or phobias....keep up the great work!!!
Driving instructor checking in to learn more about what I teach! Great content!
Thank you
So I can drive a Manual Trans. But I feel like I have been doing something wrong. I've also wanted to have a better understanding of how the full system functions. Your in depth explanation is kind of that eye opening moment. Thanks for taking that time to be thorough! Liked and subscribed!
being a mechanic of 20 year i couldn't of explained the workings of a clutch any better!
This video has genuinely saved me. I’m getting a new car and I needed to refresh my memory cause I don’t want to mess it up! Thank you x
Your videos are great and super useful! I'm a nervous learner and I struggle with the order of doing stuff and best practices and your channel has helped me so much - thank you!!
I'm happy to hear that! Thank you.
I really appreciate your videos. youre doing a great job man! Im a new manual car owner and I believe this channel helped me get better at driving it much quicker.
So what I'm getting from a few of your videos is...don't be afraid to hold the clutch and let it do what it is meant to do! Thats the part I've been struggling with. Afraid to use the clutch longer than switching gears or taking off, which in turn is causing bucking takeoffs. Higher gears has been just fine, I've been slowly letting off the clutch.
But yeah all in all the videos I've watched from your channel have helped so friggin much. Im anxious to get back in to my used car and learn some more! Thank you!!
You're welcome. I remember feeling the same about the clutch but I have so much experience with them now I've been teaching for 12 years I've learnt what really wears them. Letting it smooth out gear changes and move away smoothly is fine.
Excellent tutorial. A short vid on teaching new manual drivers how to start on hill - without panicking - would be great.
Reminds me of the channel Engineering Explained where he is sat in a car and has transmission parts on the passenger seat... good video, nice and indepth, hope it takes off :)
Thanks Michael.
Great video. It helped explain how I burnt the clutch that one time when I was still pretty rubbish at driving and trying to do a hill start. These days I'm better and I don't hold the bite at a hill, if I'm going to be stationary for more than a few seconds I go straight into neutral and onto the handbrake.
Dear Richard. Thank you for this fantastic video. I have not driven a manual car for over 10 years, and I have recently got a manual Miata. I feel quite rusted. :D I love watching your videos, to remind myslef, or maybe rather re-learn how to drive a car with manual transmission. Your videos are super helpful, and I enjoy your demonstations very much. You explain everything so well, and you are a great teacher. A big shout-out to you from across the pond! I'd love to see your fun car. :)
Thank you, here are a couple of videos of it. I've now sold it and have a 100th anniversary MX5.
ua-cam.com/video/gOR-MVrRQqQ/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/E5wZlpnTu4I/v-deo.html
@@ConquerDriving Thanks for sharing. It was an unique roadster, with a lovely sound (at least the modified one you had). Though it seems that car had a list of problems (I enjoyed your video more than JayEmms's). The MX5 should be more comfortable. :) Congrats on the 100th Anniversary Edition. It is a beauty. Mine is a red one with white interior. I have it only for a week, now, but it is such a fun car to drive. I am going to watch your review of MX5, and I hope you will have more of MX5 videos.
I just watched one of your videos just a minute ago on what causes the clutch to burn out bonus round!!
Haha!
A good way to show the counterintiutive movement of the diaphragm spring are these small round metal boxes sometimes used for mints. The way to open them is to push on the lid, it then does the same movement as the diaphragm spring.
I've been watching you for a while now and only just seen this video - a video that I've been wanting to watch for a long time!
thanks a lot for this video, it's good to understand the mechanisms so we can know what we are doing while driving. keep up the good work
You're welcome and thank you!
Dude, you're simply the best in the business!
I was adulting so well until 3:13 - 3:23 😂
😂😂
Reminded me of Car Throttle's "things car guys say that confuse normal people"
Wisdom indeed
Am gaining daily from your videos great work
Thorough explanation. Thanks
Really interesting stuff! Just started learning how to drive and this channel has given me great information so far. I need just a little more help to understand the clutch better. Which of these situations is actually happening?
1. The friction disk is always in contact with the flywheel. The force from the pressure plate and clutch bearing determine whether there is enough friction to be engaged or not.
(This seems great but wouldn't friction disk and flywheel would both wear out?).
2. The friction disk is never in contact with the flywheel. The friction disk only engages when it is in contact with the pressure plate.
(This seems to work but I wonder if the friction would be enough from just the pressure plate)
3. The friction disk is sometimes in contact with the flywheel. The pressure plate causes the friction disk to come in contact with both the flywheel and pressure plate when it is engaged.
(This also seems to work but how would the friction disk move through space? No forces or devices, to my knowledge, are there to keep it in between the plates without contact.)
After watching your video I think it is 3. But once again how would it move from engaged to disengaged. Nothing seems to be holding it in place.
I see what you're saying. The friction disc will not make contact with the pressure plate or the flywheel when the clutch is down because the fast rotation of both the pressure plate and flywheel will effectively kick it fiction disc off. There will only be wear with pressure, not slight contact. The brake pads work in the same way, it's not like a bicycle that needs a return spring to move the brake pad away from the brake discs. In a car simply releasing pressure of the brake pads will be enough, the pads are always gently touching the disc but as there is no pressure no braking or heat is generated. However unlike the brakes, there is actually a small 1-2mm gap between the friction disc and pressure plate and flywheel when the clutch is down. If something makes contact with something spinning fast it will be pushed away if it's the path of least resistance.
Conquer Driving Thank you so much, it finally makes sense! Really awesome video and explanation.
i drive to the blue mountains and my clutch started slipping on the freeway. when i was comming back it was sliiping constantly and i was strugling to get going at trafic lights. it was time to replace my clutch. both me and my brother lernt to drive on the car. ( i brought it off him )
when i replaced my clutch ( did it my self with my dad ) the friction matiral hade worn to the point it was smoth and the fly wheal was toast as well. it hade over 315,000 km on it. i was going to change the fly wheel with my clutch weather it was still working or not becuse it was a dual mass flywheel. After the new clutch i wasent prepeardef for hoe low the bite point was and kept spinning my tiers. hade it for about 3 months and it feels so good.
You deserve a lot than you get it now. Thanks for teaching me! Sir
Thank you so much!
@@ConquerDriving I literally didn't joined any learning school because of you. Thanks ! Wishing for your best.
Seriously great explanation! Very well done video
"Learners... don't know how to drive yet. They're with me TO learn how to drive."
Thank you so much for this statement. My driving instructors never understood this concept. They would tell me to do some fancy driving skill & then sigh & insult me when I couldn't do it.
I even said, "This is driving class. Of course I don't know how to perform this task. That's why I'm here. Aren't driving lessons supposed to be for teaching people who don't know how to drive how to drive? Why would I be taking this course if I already knew how to do all of this?" I never got an answer to my query.
They were willing to pass me off on tasks I never learned, part of why I have a complex about my driving ability. At least I have never been in a wreck, but I avoid certain maneuvers.
Thank you so much for these excellent videos. They are truly a Godsend. (I wish UA-cam had been around in the mid-90s when I was learning how to drive!)
Thank you for your kind comment. I hope my videos help you gain more confidence in your driving ability. Don't be afraid to practise.
@@ConquerDriving Thank you so much for your encouraging reply. While video watching is obviously no substitute for actual driving practice, I do find getting expert perspectives tremendously helpful for learning what I should be doing. The remote experience of watching an excellent teacher like yourself explain the process is extremely beneficial.
I really appreciate your videos, & I have gained a lot more confidence & understanding just from watching them. I don't have reason to drive much at this point in my life, but I have a lot more knowledge & awareness than I ever possessed, even in the past when I drove much more frequently.
Just because someone has reached whatever age & survived driving, might legitimately be a good driver, perhaps passed whatever requirement to become a driving instructor, does not by any means guarantee he or she has the temperament or ability to break down the process & teach it to someone else. (True for much more than driving.) Your videos serve a much-needed purpose, & I am enjoying your channel!
That a very good video about a subject I had know knowledge what so ever. Very well explained 👍
Thank you!
I've driven manuals for 20 years now, and subscribe to your videos. I have learnt the way to drive modern clutches is different to how I was taught, so thank you. I have a sports car and I get the harsh contact and jolt through the car no matter how much I hold the bite point in first (other gears are fine). It doesn't seem to happen if I am increasing revs through the release though.
Any thoughts/comments?
You're welcome ☺ Some clutches do bite hard, adding more revs will increase slip making for a smoother transition. As long as the revs are below 2000 rpm you should be OK because as soon as the bite point is reached the hard clutch would bring the revs down anyway.
Very detailed explanation. Thanks.👍😀
Perfect teaching
Demonstration on point!
Thank you.
Great info. Very insightful! I think I know why my car chatters now....Time to learn how to drive like a limo driver.
Absolutely a meister of teaching
Thanks for your detailed knowledge sharing bro. Very useful.
I recently overheated the clutch on the uphill approach to a roundabout as I was already halfway ready to move away when a fast car emerged and I had to stop again. So as it was uphill with another car behind, I wanted to go quickly and not stall so I ended up over-revving while moving away twice within a couple of seconds. I've been driving for almost a year now but it was the first time that I treated the clutch so badly that I could actually smell it (haven't done so even while learning). It was awfully scary as I thought I could really damage it. But now, if I get it right, I'd actually have to do it regularily to make it wear out.
Btw, now I can explain in details to my mum what's the benefit of me putting the car to neutral on waiting ^^
You're... you're just a legend
Fascinating video...you know your stuff!...I learned a lot. Thank you!
Hi Rich, hope all is well, Could you make a video explaining rights of way and who has right of way and where? I'm struggling to find a good video on it
Good idea. It's all about who's pathway it is.
Clutch dust in living room. Never mind. Love it.
Haha, that actually took a lot of scrubbing to get it out the carpet.
Conquer Driving yes lands black sticks. I’m in car trade selling cars. I know what happens black carbon brake dust !!!!!!!
Thank you! Very helpful ☺️
Very interesting, Great vid! 👍
You're welcome
I feel like you love the clutch by all means because of how many videos you made about it. But it helps everytime so why not. ^^ Btw, you have pretty arms lol.
Haha, thank you!
The speed of the friction disc depends on the speed of the tyres??
This video really helps a lot. I confuse in something. I always do double clutch/revmaching, when I downshifting from 3rd gear to 2on gear always under 1500rpm for being smoother possible and not overhead the clutch.
Actually it's better for the transmission and the clutch, do revmaching or double clutch, or it's more recomendable release the clutch slower for being more smooth downshifting.?
Thanks
Double clutching doesn't help modern gearboxes. Being careful with the clutch though does help.
Very much helpful
Great video.
Thank you!
Good explaining about clutch bro 👏👏👏
Need some assist here bro...how do you judge the braking distance from the hazardous without braking too late or early?😭😭
I'm still struggling on this matter and I'm keep trying to get in right
Start braking very early and gently, focus on the point where you're trying to stop and gradually increase the brakes until you feel you may finish stopping just a tad too early, when you get close you can release the brake a bit to smooth things out and finish getting to your target. At your target you may need to brake a bit more to stop.
Thanks for sharing it
Standard Transmission are Very Entgaging to Drive. Mechnical & Operated Manually.
Thanks!
Again, thank you generosity! It's really appreciated!
Thanks sir Richard for sharing this information.
#OneMessageFoundation
Thank you for this! You mentioned the clutch peddle feeling notchy, and that rattling sound you demonstrated, but what are the other signs of any of these clutch components being on the way out or dead?
A whining sound is also usually bad or if the clutch doesn't bite and continues to slip (revs go up but car doesn't accelerate).
@@ConquerDriving Thank you very much! Only been driving 2 months, and my car is 12 years old, with 115k miles on it, so I am wary of something happening to the clutch, particularly as I am new, I might finish it off haha!
If a clutch (2nd one) was worn down to the rivets on the pressure plate side only after 30k miles. What would be your diagnosis based on that. Assume I treated the clutch decent also and car has 130k miles. Thanks
Hi, Richard love the videos quick question you seem to be really knowledgeable in the mechanics of cars. would you ever consider doing a DIY car fix channel I love your way of teaching and I think you would be the UK version of Chris Fix! Also, would you replace your own clutch on your driveway knowing what to do or do you take it to a mechanic for the ease of thinking of replacing my clutch myself and just wonder what your experience was like?
I would enjoy doing such a channel but I don't have time for mire projects. I have replaced a clutch in the residential car park where I live but I wouldn't do it again, too heavy, such a job really needs a two post lift to get the car in the air. I usually do minor jobs and diagnose issues then get a garage to do the work I specify if it's too heavy for me.
@@ConquerDriving Yeah I agree Looking to do a clutch in my little I10 hoping it will be ok as it only has a small 5-speed tranny with a 1.2L engine I love working on my car only just passed my test. If you ever retire from being an instructor you can always be the next Chris fix :)
Do a video of what happens when an engine stalls
It basically just goes too slow for it to run and switches off. The engine has to spin around 10 times a second to run.
Did you disassemble the car yourself? And why's the rear portion of your car covered with parts? Is your car not a 4-seater?
Yes, I've been reassembling it all day today. It's been quite a comprehensive lock down restoration. Probably finish it by the end of the week. It's a Vauxhall VX220.
This is the plainest shirt he’s ever worn, not wanting to get anything dirty, no doubt.
Please can you do a video on driving up hills (not Hill starts)? I struggle getting up at a steady speed.
Good idea! Not many long hills where I live though.
Maybe i am wrong, but if the brand new disc's thickness is 8.3mm and the used one is 7,3 mm, then it worned only 1mm, which means 0,5-0,5 mm side by side.. You mentioned 1-1mm on both side.. from 15:30.
That's correct. It had worn 0.5mm on both sides so a total of 1mm overall.
Does it wera the clutch for example if you are at low revs in 4th doing 20-30mph and accelerate as it has to acomodate to build up the speed? for example approaching a roundabout where little stopping is required as no traffic is coming. Would it be better to change down a gear to third and then change up again?
If the clutch stays up there is no clutch wear.
There’s no clutch wear but I’d still downshift so you don’t lug your engine if the RPMs get very low
I'm worried I may have damaged my dad's beloved car, a 1.6T Focus running diesel. I've passed my test but unfortunately still making mistakes here and there as I get used to driving by myself now. Was driving at 30mph on a big road through a village when approaching a lorry parked on my side of the road. Seemingly no other traffic around, I planned to drop to 3rd gear from 4th to overtake but somehow ended up putting into 1st (rookie error, I know, but I passed my test 6 years ago and am just coming back it!). The car is obviously not too happy and the back wheels lock, kind of feels like I've randomly attempted to perform an emergency stop but with way more engine screaming. Almost as soon as I've put it into 1st I realise my mistake and take it straight back out of gear, rev the engine to match to 3rd gear and it seemed to be good going into 3rd (I didn't actually stop, I was probably about 10-15mph still approaching the lorry when I put it into 3rd because it all happened so fast). (Also now I think about it maybe I should have gone into 2nd instead but I felt at the time the car was screeching for the higher of the two gears). Now I'm terrified I've knackered the clutch but I drove the car for 20 mins after and it seemed normal? Which part of the clutch might I have damaged? Love your videos by the way, so so useful and well explained!
Thank you for the compliment. I wouldn't worry about it, you are unlikely to damage the transmission doing it once. No need to rev match for up shifts.
@@ConquerDriving Grand, thanks!
So is the pressure of the clutch the pressure from pushing the metal fingers down?
That's correct. But with some leverage from the pedal, the clutch fork and the master and slave cylinders if the clutch is hydraulic.
I just wanted to ask a question. If the clutch pedal creeks when you press it down does the actual pedal need replacing or does the actual clutch mechanism itself need replacing?
If it creaks the pedal itself most likely just needs lube. I've found yellow Vaseline works well. Or some silicone grease if you have it. Avoid copper grease where ever rubber is present.
Hello, I have question about downshifting for better and longer engine braking. Is rev matching the engine to let’s say 3000 rpm and then holding the clutch in the bite point for like 1,5 second, when the engine speed is at 2800-3000 rpm matching with the gearbox, is it wearing the clutch? It’s hard to rev the engine to the correct rpm in my diesel car, and the revs don’t fall instantly after releasing the gas pedal but like after a second
The clutch is designed to rev match. Any use of the clutch will cause more wear but using it to rev match does not cause excessive wear.
@@ConquerDriving sure, I was wondering, because you’ve said that moving off from 3000 rpm is instantly burning clutch, so i’ve thought that the same thing happens while rev matching in higher engine speed
Informative and conceptual explanation amezing job thanx alot bro. . .
Thank you and you're welcome!
I know I’m probably missing something but wouldn’t it make more sense if the friction disc is just attached to the flywheel?
I thank I know what you mean, I don't think that would be very sturdy, the clutch friction disc needs to be strong and supposed on both sides.
Conquer Driving oh I see, thanks
Will the clutch wear faster when upshifting at higher rpms? Or is the difference very minimal that it’s negligible? Thank you
No, both the engine and clutch will be fast.
I want to be your friend. Excellent explanation
Thank you.
hello i have two questions. 1st is Why does a car experience jerk when you leave the clutch suddenly in the first gear but doesn't when it's in the third gear or so? and 2nd is why we need to let go off accelerator while pressing clutch and changing to higher gears? pls explain this
Lower gears and particularly first has more torque than higher gears so the extra torque of the engine will jerk the car more easily, in 5th gear the engine has little torque so it would be the engine that changes speed instead of the car when you lift the clutch up quickly.. There is always a jerk, just sometimes the car jerks or the engine speed (rpm) jerks.. You won't notice the engine speed jerk though. If you don't let of the accelerator the engine speed will shoot up.
So with the clutch disengaged there is gap between the friction plate on both pressure plate side and flywheel side correct? If not then why is there friction material on both sides
There is a gap on both sides of the fiction material. It's in the middle between the flywheel and the pressure plate.
@@ConquerDriving Got it, thanks!
So always let go of the clutch slowly?
Pausing at the bite point will help when setting off and going to gear two. This video should help for how long to pause: ua-cam.com/video/AHna4amcsnE/v-deo.html
Found this out holding the biting point in my new car at mcds very long drive thro queue on a bank scared to stall.. car started smoking.. I dont do tht now 🤣
Hey my driving test is this wednesday hope i pass! Gonna update this comment once i am done
Good luck!
Best of luck!
Good luck!
Good luck! Do you know when new applicants for driving tests will be ready?
Good luck 🤞
HEY RICHARD i just bought a skoda octy 2 manual
at first i was very good to find bite point now it always stalling or skidding and sometimes i catch the bite point
does that mean my clutch is bad ???
Unlikely, if there was a problem with the clutch it would do it everytime. Maybe try doing things more carefully for a while and see how it goes. I would guess you used the clutch more slowly when you got the car and now you're doing things a bit too quickly.
Hello my friend I want to ask about if I doing a clutch and gas when I get a clutch biting pint simultaneously ? What's can happen ? And why rev match doing in a in lower gear as well direct drive and over drive? Thanks my friend in Arabic called شكرا صديقى
You should get the clutch bits point with gas, without gas most cars will struggle. I need to do a video on rev matching. Rev matching allows for smoother and faster gear changes.
What happens if I do a 6k clutch dump?
You replace clutch flywheel gearbox driveshafts
Lots of wheel spin normally. I'd never dump the clutch as it doesn't lead to a good start. Very high but not dump. It's finding the optimal height to get as much power to the wheels as possible without wheel spin.
Don't go around clutch kicking like your a pro drifter in your daily either 😂
I fix my bikes kitchen. GirlF goes mental
Yes, I'm very lucky to have a very understanding girlfriend. The dinner table is currently covered in car parts as I finish my restoration.
Conquer Driving brilliant. I have more of a hyacinth bucket wifey. She whinges just on some super light carbon super bike bicycle parts !! Not even heavy oily car bits. Lotus or other !!!!
What happens when you add more gas let’s say reaching 400rpm and just release a lit bit of the clutch???
4000rpm and bite point would burn your clutch very quickly. In these video I did mention keeping your revs low. Certainly below 2000rpm. In a car without much torque using lots of revs and bite point will increase your power and therefore allow you to set off more quickly but it will be detrimental to the clutch.
5:03 Presentation*
let’s say ur going 30mph in 4th gear coming up to traffic lights, would holding the clutch down until u reach the traffic light to a stop, wear the clutch
The more you hold it down the more the release bearing is active. Better to hold it down only when needed. This video may help: ua-cam.com/video/kLGpfdRFxxU/v-deo.html
😊
Anyone wondering how he was able to click so fast at 11:11? I've been trying to do it for the past min lol
😂 Tongue on the roof of my mouth. I can't roll my Rs though.
I call it judder town 😆
please translation Arabic
Unfortunately translating to different languages would take me too long at this stage. Sorry.
Wow, You are not good driver even mechanical engineer too.
Perfect cheers my last car the clutch would kick in with a tiny lift of the peddle this new one diesel with dmf seems to travel ages until it kicks in and also feels like the peddle dips back down a tiny bit when lifting so this makes sense I think😂 hopefully isn’t on its way out
A high clutch bite point can mean a worn clutch but not necessarily as some cars have a high bite point before they're worn.