Your videos are always very helpful. I really appreciate the quality and number of videos you consistently create. I try to incorporate/practice at least one new technique from your videos when I'm starting a few minis and it has really helped me get better at this hobby. It's like gaining a new tool in the tool box, and it would be so much harder and slower without videos like this (still takes practice but at least it is more directed). I also really love the extra tidbits of info you always throw in, for example in this one the best way to clean an airbrush. Seriously, thank you so much.
Implied lesson: how to wrap your model to block overspray. About as important as the tools and technique with the airbrush. Another great video, Vince. Keep it up!
Well, I know it already exists, not sure who, but I have seen it shared before. I am sure some google-fu will find it, it's an attachment for your airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella Holy cow it actually exists and you can buy it from Japan .. laser dot for your miniatures airbrush ... pachelbel.jp/model_babette/en_alp_top.html
Just started airbrushing so I'm a ways off this but the technique looks really useful. I'd be willing to bet the people that complain about changing paints have a suction feed brush. Mine is a real hassle compared to a gravity feed. Still not much more than a minute to change though, just messy.
Hello Vince. I'm new to airbrushing and still learning the basics. All of the tutorial videos I've seen use the trigger motion to let the air out as On/OFF only adjusting the flow via pressure dial. In your tutorial however you suggest varying pressure on the trigger to adjust the airflow. Is this a more advanced way of controlling the flow or a personal preference?
It's what "dual" means in dual action. The pressing down just gives you air, the pull back gives you paint. By precisely controlling on that axis is how you get exact applications out of your airbrush. Hope that helps. :)
Thanks for the video, particularly useful at the moment as I'm busy airbrushing a dreadnought. One question though is that it looks as though you could have done the entire sword soley with the airbrush. Is that something you'd recommend in certain situations. What's the main advantage of doing paintbrush work first? Thanks again!
The paint with a brush just has a different look, there are micro flaws that are actually valuable. In addition, you can build stronger more intense colors. What I have found is it's easier to build those strong base tones, then smooth them out.
Great video! I may need to invest in a smaller needle airbrush. I love my patriot 105, but I doubt I can achieve this with a 0.5. Great results in a very short time.
Great video! I would love to see the flesh footage also even if it's hard to see the results. Just seeing how you use the technique differently compared to the sword would be valuable!
Great video, i have a H&S evolution airbrush and i often do those airbrush glazes. But i often have some problems with my pressure and general control, i alway thought it was a lack of skill, leading to a lot of spider webing or too thick coats. That said when i look your airbrush it looks so easier, I should try a Iwata hi line
Hey Vince just a question, why you do the backfill with the airbrush when cleaning and not don’t empty through spraying and then clean it with thinner afterwards? I only wonder because I heard that’s not good, and I can imagine that backward pressure being not optimal for the internal parts. With humble greetings! And thank you for this wonderful painting lesson, as always perfect to the point🙌🏼🌞
I explain in the cleaning your airbrush fast video - but the simple answer is, you want as little paint as possible moving through the tip of the brush. The backflow won't hurt anything, but the tip, which is often as small as .15mm, is very easy to clog up and/or mess up.
In general, I still run at 18PSI, but the key is that airbrush has a pressure control and I have it way blocked off. If you don't have that extra control on your airbrush, something like 5-8.
can you do a video on masking techniques? Ive been using things like liquid mask and poster tac to block and i think its fairly inefficient. Thanks as always, you are the best miniature resource on the internet!
I have an airbrush question not related to blending. In the past you have recommended using gun oil to oil the trigger of your airbrush. If you could get a controlled application would WD-40 be an acceptable substitute. Had a can in my truck
My only concern with that would be the possibility of a reaction between the WD-40 and any rubber gaskets that might be inside the airbrush; I'm not sure that there *would* necessarily be a reaction, but its something I'd test on a small scale before simply spraying it on. Alternatively, you can pick airbrush specific lubricant; I use the Badger brand myself and it works wonderfully.
That's a good point, I have heard some bad stories of WD-40 on airbrushes and what happens with the rubber and the WD over time. My advice would be something like the badger if you can't find the other oil.
I could get either and I probably will I just had the WD on hand and my airbrush trigger happened to be sticking and it worked in a pinch. Wasn’t thinking about the rubber seals and I don’t know what the WD would do but I’d rather not find out the hard way
i think this technique is best use on something big, a typical 54mm or wargaming small unit, 1/35 figure may too small to get this precise. Did you think using a detail 0.2-0.15 airbrush will help to get more accurate ?
It's certainly great on things like 54mm or busts, but with practice, it can certainly be used on 32mm minis (you will see next week in action). :) That being said, the .2mm tip can help, but I wouldn't go any smaller than that. The real key is the tip and the control over the air feed. I have had better luck with the hi-line than most others.
Hey Vince! It sounds like a Hi Line might be a nice step up from my Eclipse, when the time comes to upgrade. Are you using the 0.3mm or 0.2mm needle? I feel it might be useful to keep the 3mm needle in the Eclipse, and pimp the Hi Line out with a 2mm needle and the upgraded crown.
Thank you as always Vince, these are greatly appreciated! Do you ever use a crown tip\cap for close up work? I haven't had issues yet doing close work without one, but was wondering if you had any insight into whether they were worth trying.
Which airbrush nozzle diameters are good for doing detail work and which are good for priming miniatures and painting vehicles? Can a single airbrush potentially do both reasonably well?
The .3mm can play both ways, but the tip on something like the hi-line is more for detail. I keep two airbrushes with .3mm but different tips/tip guards to control the spray and have one more focused on detail and one more focused on larger areas.
Paul is correct, I spray a lot more inks, shades and air paints through my airbrush than anything else. That being said, I do certainly use some Model color as well on occasion, the answer is lots of Vallejo Thinner and Flow Improver. I have a mix of the two (8-1 with Thinner to flow improver) and for model color, we are generally talking about 3-2 thinner/paint.
If you're going with Model Color and/or Game Color (as opposed to Air, which is already airbrush ready) I'd recommend Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver to thin down the paints; this helps with tip drying, since the Flow Improver isn't drying the paint out any faster.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks. Useful to know. Would I be right in saying that the trigger lock at the back of the hi line sets the limit to which the trigger can be pulled back thus limiting paint flow to a set level. My trigger control is improving but close up/ detailed makes me nervous because of the occasional "oops" moment Sounds like the hiline might mitigate that a bit?
Hi Vince! I'm curious about what makes the front of your Iwata special. Would you mind telling me the exact model so I can look for more pics of it online? Thanks! EDIT: Random idea: would it help to have a laser pointer stuck to your airbrush for people watching to focus their attention on the right spot? EDIT's EDIT: You've recorded three times... meaning you've re-brushed the transitions to less smooth transitions each time?? >:-O That's dedication!
1) THe tip is conical and focuses the air, You can also buy replacement tip guards for most airbrushes to do that. 2) That's an interesting idea, might be useful for the video. 3) It was 3 different surfaces, I did 2 with skin, but I wasn't happy every time because (and here is the secret) the video camera makes everything look smoother than it is in reality, especially under good light. When you see someone on video paint something and you think - how is that so smooth? It probably isn't. :) - The flesh transitions in reality looked nice, but on camera, it didn't look like it did anything.
In general, neutral bright colors like that don't have a great deal of work over zenithal. True blacks and whites aren't really going to do much over a zenithal. Basically, with something like Khaki, you want to start in the darkest version of your shade color, get the black or darker tones completely covered, then build up to the highlights from there.
My apologies for mixing words, it was white ink. For my whites through an airbrush for this kind of detailing, I always use ink as it's more manageable and smooth.
Hey Vince, when I try to glaze, I immediately get spiderwebbing, even at low pressures of PSI 5. I'm using a very cheap airbrush, could that be the reason why I'm struggling? Any advice would be appreciated!
I would guess it's the cheap airbrush yeah. You need something that has the ability to use the dual action, it might be the case that you need to have a more precise airbrush. :)
Thank you for constantly putting out solid videos sir.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Your videos are always very helpful. I really appreciate the quality and number of videos you consistently create. I try to incorporate/practice at least one new technique from your videos when I'm starting a few minis and it has really helped me get better at this hobby. It's like gaining a new tool in the tool box, and it would be so much harder and slower without videos like this (still takes practice but at least it is more directed). I also really love the extra tidbits of info you always throw in, for example in this one the best way to clean an airbrush. Seriously, thank you so much.
Thank you, I am always happy to help and it sounds like you are on the right path for sure. :)
Implied lesson: how to wrap your model to block overspray. About as important as the tools and technique with the airbrush. Another great video, Vince. Keep it up!
Yep, have to make sure that is wrapped up tight. :)
the person that invents a laser dot showing where the airbrush needle ponts to gets the nobel peace prize from me
Well, I know it already exists, not sure who, but I have seen it shared before. I am sure some google-fu will find it, it's an attachment for your airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella Holy cow it actually exists and you can buy it from Japan .. laser dot for your miniatures airbrush ...
pachelbel.jp/model_babette/en_alp_top.html
Just started airbrushing so I'm a ways off this but the technique looks really useful.
I'd be willing to bet the people that complain about changing paints have a suction feed brush. Mine is a real hassle compared to a gravity feed. Still not much more than a minute to change though, just messy.
Yeah, the gravity feed really is essential. Just makes that changing easier.
@@VinceVenturella hopefully I can sort out an upgrade soon enough. Really hard to argue with a $100AUD compressor and brush combo to start out.
My airbrushing be like - I press the trigger, the whole neighbourhood gets painted.
Well, it's a question of practicing that control. :)
Another great video, thanks for the information in an easy to understand way. My airbrushing and painting is coming along thanks to your videos
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Hello Vince. I'm new to airbrushing and still learning the basics. All of the tutorial videos I've seen use the trigger motion to let the air out as On/OFF only adjusting the flow via pressure dial. In your tutorial however you suggest varying pressure on the trigger to adjust the airflow. Is this a more advanced way of controlling the flow or a personal preference?
It's what "dual" means in dual action. The pressing down just gives you air, the pull back gives you paint. By precisely controlling on that axis is how you get exact applications out of your airbrush. Hope that helps. :)
Thanks for the video, particularly useful at the moment as I'm busy airbrushing a dreadnought. One question though is that it looks as though you could have done the entire sword soley with the airbrush. Is that something you'd recommend in certain situations. What's the main advantage of doing paintbrush work first? Thanks again!
The paint with a brush just has a different look, there are micro flaws that are actually valuable. In addition, you can build stronger more intense colors. What I have found is it's easier to build those strong base tones, then smooth them out.
Great video! I may need to invest in a smaller needle airbrush. I love my patriot 105, but I doubt I can achieve this with a 0.5. Great results in a very short time.
Yeah, .5 is too large for this work, you need to be down in the .3 area.
Nice. I've come to really like my airbrush for things.
But for a request... Painting velvet! :)
I will add it to the list.
Great video! I would love to see the flesh footage also even if it's hard to see the results. Just seeing how you use the technique differently compared to the sword would be valuable!
I'll see what I can do.
Great video, i have a H&S evolution airbrush and i often do those airbrush glazes. But i often have some problems with my pressure and general control, i alway thought it was a lack of skill, leading to a lot of spider webing or too thick coats. That said when i look your airbrush it looks so easier, I should try a Iwata hi line
It has that extra element of the air flow control and that makes things so much easier.
Hey Vince just a question, why you do the backfill with the airbrush when cleaning and not don’t empty through spraying and then clean it with thinner afterwards? I only wonder because I heard that’s not good, and I can imagine that backward pressure being not optimal for the internal parts. With humble greetings! And thank you for this wonderful painting lesson, as always perfect to the point🙌🏼🌞
I explain in the cleaning your airbrush fast video - but the simple answer is, you want as little paint as possible moving through the tip of the brush. The backflow won't hurt anything, but the tip, which is often as small as .15mm, is very easy to clog up and/or mess up.
@@VinceVenturella im gonna watch that fast clean video asap! Thanks for taking your time to answer and help!! Much appreciated 🙏🏼🌞
another excellent video, thanks!
Thank you, happy to help as always.
Nice video Vince, thanks for taking the time to explain.
What would you recommend for a psi setting on that type of ratio thinner to ink?
In general, I still run at 18PSI, but the key is that airbrush has a pressure control and I have it way blocked off. If you don't have that extra control on your airbrush, something like 5-8.
Great video! Thank you
Thanks, happy to help as always. :)
can you do a video on masking techniques? Ive been using things like liquid mask and poster tac to block and i think its fairly inefficient.
Thanks as always, you are the best miniature resource on the internet!
I actually did one here - ua-cam.com/video/TqzcgB6efzU/v-deo.html
Hope that helps.
Nice vid. If you are using white ink as a zenith over a black prime coat, what ratio do you thin it, if at all?
Still 1 to 1
interesting. you're missing a HC about filters vs washes. I reckon, next week this could be covered?
Well, my HC are planned out a little farther than that, but I will add it to the list. :)
I have an airbrush question not related to blending. In the past you have recommended using gun oil to oil the trigger of your airbrush. If you could get a controlled application would WD-40 be an acceptable substitute. Had a can in my truck
My only concern with that would be the possibility of a reaction between the WD-40 and any rubber gaskets that might be inside the airbrush; I'm not sure that there *would* necessarily be a reaction, but its something I'd test on a small scale before simply spraying it on. Alternatively, you can pick airbrush specific lubricant; I use the Badger brand myself and it works wonderfully.
That's a good point, I have heard some bad stories of WD-40 on airbrushes and what happens with the rubber and the WD over time. My advice would be something like the badger if you can't find the other oil.
I could get either and I probably will I just had the WD on hand and my airbrush trigger happened to be sticking and it worked in a pinch. Wasn’t thinking about the rubber seals and I don’t know what the WD would do but I’d rather not find out the hard way
i think this technique is best use on something big, a typical 54mm or wargaming small unit, 1/35 figure may too small to get this precise. Did you think using a detail 0.2-0.15 airbrush will help to get more accurate ?
It's certainly great on things like 54mm or busts, but with practice, it can certainly be used on 32mm minis (you will see next week in action). :)
That being said, the .2mm tip can help, but I wouldn't go any smaller than that. The real key is the tip and the control over the air feed. I have had better luck with the hi-line than most others.
Hey Vince! It sounds like a Hi Line might be a nice step up from my Eclipse, when the time comes to upgrade. Are you using the 0.3mm or 0.2mm needle? I feel it might be useful to keep the 3mm needle in the Eclipse, and pimp the Hi Line out with a 2mm needle and the upgraded crown.
I am using the .3mm, I find it's really still quite precise with that tip.
Thank you as always Vince, these are greatly appreciated!
Do you ever use a crown tip\cap for close up work?
I haven't had issues yet doing close work without one, but was wondering if you had any insight into whether they were worth trying.
Haven't tried it,the Hi-Line has that nice focused tip that more or less does the same thing, one of the reasons I like it so much.
Which airbrush nozzle diameters are good for doing detail work and which are good for priming miniatures and painting vehicles? Can a single airbrush potentially do both reasonably well?
The .3mm can play both ways, but the tip on something like the hi-line is more for detail. I keep two airbrushes with .3mm but different tips/tip guards to control the spray and have one more focused on detail and one more focused on larger areas.
What's your preferred method of thinning Vallejo Model Color for airbrush use? Getting my first airbrush in a few weeks very excited to try it out!
IIRC he generally uses Model Air with a couple drops of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner and never uses un-thinned paints.
Paul is correct, I spray a lot more inks, shades and air paints through my airbrush than anything else. That being said, I do certainly use some Model color as well on occasion, the answer is lots of Vallejo Thinner and Flow Improver. I have a mix of the two (8-1 with Thinner to flow improver) and for model color, we are generally talking about 3-2 thinner/paint.
@@VinceVenturella awesome thanks to both of you!
If you're going with Model Color and/or Game Color (as opposed to Air, which is already airbrush ready) I'd recommend Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver to thin down the paints; this helps with tip drying, since the Flow Improver isn't drying the paint out any faster.
nice, thanks for charing.
Thanks, happy to help. :)
Hi Vince. I may have missed this but generally what PSI are you running at when you are using this technique?
About 18 PSI, but I am also using an airbrush with an airflow control. That can reduce the airflow going through the brush.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks. Useful to know. Would I be right in saying that the trigger lock at the back of the hi line sets the limit to which the trigger can be pulled back thus limiting paint flow to a set level. My trigger control is improving but close up/ detailed makes me nervous because of the occasional "oops" moment Sounds like the hiline might mitigate that a bit?
Hi Vince! I'm curious about what makes the front of your Iwata special. Would you mind telling me the exact model so I can look for more pics of it online? Thanks!
EDIT: Random idea: would it help to have a laser pointer stuck to your airbrush for people watching to focus their attention on the right spot?
EDIT's EDIT: You've recorded three times... meaning you've re-brushed the transitions to less smooth transitions each time?? >:-O That's dedication!
1) THe tip is conical and focuses the air, You can also buy replacement tip guards for most airbrushes to do that.
2) That's an interesting idea, might be useful for the video.
3) It was 3 different surfaces, I did 2 with skin, but I wasn't happy every time because (and here is the secret) the video camera makes everything look smoother than it is in reality, especially under good light. When you see someone on video paint something and you think - how is that so smooth? It probably isn't. :) - The flesh transitions in reality looked nice, but on camera, it didn't look like it did anything.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks!
Great video ! When is the imperial fist video coming please?
Next week. :)
Hey Vince, was wondering how to paint khaki (for a cloak) over zenithal
In general, neutral bright colors like that don't have a great deal of work over zenithal. True blacks and whites aren't really going to do much over a zenithal. Basically, with something like Khaki, you want to start in the darkest version of your shade color, get the black or darker tones completely covered, then build up to the highlights from there.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the reply Vince, I'll give it a go!
I'm confused, at 2:07, you say you're using white paint mixed 7:1 thinner to ink. So which is it, ink or paint or some other concoction?
My apologies for mixing words, it was white ink. For my whites through an airbrush for this kind of detailing, I always use ink as it's more manageable and smooth.
Thanks. I was guessing that but wasn't sure. I'm an airbrush noob so not sure of anything. :)
Excellent videos, maybe a bit long sometimes but worth it, but I hope you get over 100k subscribers.
I like all the extra bits of info though that the video length and format allows for. He absolutely deserves more subscribers. :)
I hope so too. :) - That being said, I know I am always long winded, but I do hope it's helpful.
Hey Vince, when I try to glaze, I immediately get spiderwebbing, even at low pressures of PSI 5. I'm using a very cheap airbrush, could that be the reason why I'm struggling? Any advice would be appreciated!
I would guess it's the cheap airbrush yeah. You need something that has the ability to use the dual action, it might be the case that you need to have a more precise airbrush. :)
how long are you staying on top of the same spot?
A Slaanesh model wrapped tightly in plastic...how fitting.
THe model was happy I am sure.