I have been working on these cars for 20+ years now. Running the calibration for the TC is not necessary when changing the fluid. This is only required when you actually open up the case and replace physical components inside or the actuator. Change the fluid, seal her back up, and call it a day. If you do replace the actuator, I like to drive her first and see if there are no symptoms. If the symptoms are gone great! Leave her alone. I've had cases where running the calibration led to shudder. Also don't forget to check your tires. If I had to give it a %, I would say 80% of TC symptoms are due to tire and alignment issues.
Very helpful video. I used a CTA Tools 1136 14mm stubby socket to remove the fill plug. About $9 on Amazon. It worked great. My X5 similarly did not have a drain plug - thanks BMW! Used the same extractor as in the video initially. Switched to an old Mityvac hand vacuum pump to get the remainder of the fluid. Refilled with about 18oz of DTF-1.
Thanks for this. I bought the angled wrench but ended up using a normal ratcheting 14mm wrench. Being able to position the wrench at any angle made it easier to loosen.
Thank you for the video with the guide, your efforts is very knowledagble. Not clear was foxwell helpful in calibrating and does callibrating tool also help in removing the errors?
Hi! The Foxwell tool or something similar is needed for calibration of the transfer case. It can also be helpful tool for removing errors and performing other task.
Thanks for the video. Ive just done a transfer case fluid change on my 200,000 mile e53 6sp manual, and on mine I had the luxury of both a drain and filler plugs. It took about 750ml. Sadly though, I only have INPA, both old and new versions don't do adaptations. So looks like I'll be on the look out for a Foxwell as my laptop isnt powerful enough for ISTA. Incidentally, you can run these in RWD only wothout any problems. I now have a switch to switch between the 2. Ok, you lose abs and traction control, but its nice to have during summer months and on long hauls. Ive almost got the abs to work while in rwd only now too, just need to work out the internal buffer circuit in the vtg module. If someone has started to notice the skipping and misbehaving of the VTG and doesn't have the ability to change the fluid and recalibration, then i would suggest unplugging the actuator motor on the side of the transfer case (with ignition off, that's essential) and running in rwd until you get time to sort it properly. This way it takes the strain from the transfer box clutches and could stop further wear/damage. Thanks again and greeting from UK.
@@eddiemcars I noticed some better gas mileage (+1-2mpg). Also that was after doing both differentials (also Redline 75w85), transfer case and an oil change (from a 5w40 to a 0w30).
Hi Eddie, thanks for the effort. I see You got stressed a lil bit once You got all those codes ^_^ I was going to ask You since You use BimmerCode, does it allow to make that VTG calibration, because You used different tool for this job. Also in older X5 (E70) there was a drain plug at the bottom of the VTG, but I guess they have change it in F-generation, possibly more work for dealers. Regards
The unit in this video is the ATC45L. That one has no drain plug. The fluid must be sucked out of the fill plug, and the refilled through the same point. Also, there is no official transfer case fluid service at the dealer. In fact, dealers will not even let techs touch them. They consider them "sealed and filled for life." If they suffer a failure, the entire unit is replaced 😂 The only driveline service the dealer will perform is front differential, transmission, and rear differential.
Thank you for the video. I have a question: My x6 has 126k miles, and I've never changed tranny fluid on it. Asked BMW service manager to replace it, he said it's better not to do it since it's overdue, and if I'll change it, it may not shift right. Is it true or not? I really want to change it, but afraid having problems after. Thanks.
Hi I really enjoy your tutorials and was wondering what type of winter tires do you use? Where I live we have some decent winters but hot summers so would be good to another set. Thanks!
FYI, the manufacturer repair manual is recommending removing the cross member which is that big piece of metal obstructing the access to the drain port. It is also mentioned to support the transmission with a lifter before removing the cross member. It is a bit more work but it will save the frustration to access that port. Anyway, good video presentation.
I bought a cheap set of metric hex keys with the large sizes, up to 17 mm, included. I used my chop saw and cut 2 1/4 long piece off the long side of the 12 through 17. Using boxed end wrench on those hex slugs has made drain and fill plugs easy on many vehicles. The large metric 3/8 and 1/2 drive bits are too long to get in for so many vehicles. The Snap-on and other specialty brands make shorty versions but get a huge price for something used mostly to add or drain oil.
Thanks for this video... I'm looking to do differential and transfer case fluid changes on my F85 also.. Didn't know about the reset... What happens if the reset isn't done after the TC change? Rough drive?
If you don’t do the reset you should be fine. The reset only helps the transfer case clutches adapt to new fluid. In my case, my car was experiencing a shudder on wet surface and sharp turns. It went away after the reset.
Great write up Ed! I have a ‘17 F15 50i and did the front and rear diff, transmission, and transfer case all at 50K miles after reading a lot of posts on Bimmerforums. Out of the 4 fluids, the transfer case was by far the darkest. I plan on doing just the transfer case again at 75K miles and then all of them at 100K. Interestingly, I found differing opinions about the requirement to recalibrate after only a fluid change and since I only have bimmercode, I elected not to pay for another device to recalibrate…probably a good thing to do for sure, but mine has been operating perfectly for 6K miles and I can’t talk you how much better the car coasts with fresh driveline fluids!! I used the BMW OEM xfer fluid, and liqui moly gear oil and 1800 atf in the ZF tranny. Keep up the good work!!!
I don’t think it’s required to do the VTG calibration. I only did it because I didn’t want the shudder to come back. I drove it around the block before the recalibration to make sure there weren’t any leaks and it drove fine. The clutch adjustment appeared minimal. How was the front and rear diff? Thats going to be my next job. Interesting that the transfer case was the darkest.
@@eddiemcars ah I see. That makes sense-if mine were making noise, I would have sought out the means to recalibrate too. I think the xfer fluid was so dark, because of the shear lack of volume of fluid-hard to believe there’s only 1/2 L in there. No wonder it’s the weak link in the drivetrain. Hence the reason I’m increasing the change interval. Front diff is easy, fill plug on drivers side wheel well area, and it has a drain plug. Rear was only full plug and I used same metal coat hanger tube you have. However if the F85 comes standard with the DHP type torque vectoring diff, you’ll have 3 separate chambers with drain and fill plugs on all and I believe the middle chamber takes a different type of gear oil than the outer two. I have the standard non-DHP diff. Trans fluid is easy as ECS tuning or FCP sell a kit that includes the pan/gasket/filter so it’s just drain, remove and swap the pan, install with new screws and then fill using ISTA or BimmerLink to watch the trans temps as you fill (procedure is written up on binmerforums if you search, it’s too long to post here but not complicated…). It’s really not as hard as it seems.
Thanks for the video. Mine has been experiencing the same issues under low speeds when turning, currently at 84k. Dealer states the center diff is a $7,500 "lifetime part" and that it's time for a rear transfer case fluid change ($500). Only when asked about the front diff was I presented with an additional quote.
Thanks for doing the video. What was the reason for the fluid change?? Just had mine done because I had a shaking and hesitation which the dealer wanted to sell me a $7,000 transfer case. We changed the fluid and now the shaking and hesitation is gone.
@@eddiemcars mine felt very much like a miss or bad plug/coil going down. Almost 38,000 miles... I was blown away that it could possibly be the transfer case. Ended up being a fluid/modifier clutch pack issue. completely
Would you experience this shaking/hesitation during acceleration? Curious because that is what I am experiencing and don’t want to pay thousands for a new transfer case if all I need to do is a fluid change
should put a little bit of the weight on the jack stands.. when a vehicle falls a lot of time one side fall first and its not even and the loose stands will fall. Ask me how i know!! thankfully I'm alive
I think GL5 fluid is key spoke with napa and they said that is the key.. 75w90 synthetic Valvoline in my front and rear boxes...front has drain plug ..great nope...siphon. my TC same thing siphon...2014 x3
Great video. Thank you for doing. I had my differential go two times in 1 year on my 2008 X5 E70 4.8i sport with 125,500 miles because the transfer case was slipping. It sounds crazy, but that was the issue stated by BMW America and my independent BMW technician The clutch packs were slipping letting all the torque down the rear. I changed the oil and reset the adaptations. I was getting the code 54C6 oil wear. Such a small problem cost me. I haven’t had any issues since the oil change.
@@eddiemcars Hello, from 02368. BMW stated this in a letter. Not saying just a oil change will correct. My BMW didn’t have issues after the oil change. Two differentials in one year was concerning to me. Very expensive. I needed to understand why it as happening. I just didn’t want to throw parts. The 2008 X5 with the 4.8i sport with the 315 tires were problematic at times with catastrophic failure. Probably not a good year I should have purchased. I’ve had other issues as well SMH. I had one of two things to do. Rebuild the transfer clutch packs or put a new one in. I chose the oil change first because of the oil wear code. My lesson learned when owning my next BMW. The E71 X6, all oil will be changed as the new owner the first day I get it home.
@@eddiemcars Hello again. I forgot about this one lol. This technician, I believe is from CT, he also explained my issues. I found him after the dealership and the independent shop explained what was going on. Just imagine going through exactly like this in the video two times in one year. ua-cam.com/video/PBoAdbyN23U/v-deo.html
Lifetime fluid. But you can change it whenever you like to try and maximize its life expectancy; just make sure to use genuine or an exact equivalent fluid .
Hey great video! I think the procedure you used is for the diff and not the transfer case. the transfer case should have a drain plug. the hole that you extracted the fluid from in the fill area. extractor is not needed for transfer case except to fill it. I could be wrong. I'm going to do my diff fluid soon on my 2015 f15 x5 50i 80k mi. but hey at the end of the day you got the job done!
Correct procedure per BMW is to remove the Transfer case and dump the fluid out the vent. The F15 x5 bmw make the stupid decision to eliminate the drain plug.
This unit is the ATC45L. That one does not have a drain plug. Only a full plug. This is how they save money (one less part to manufacture). You suck the fluid out of the unit with an extractor. It doesn't take much fluid to begin with.
Thanks for posting this. I have a 540d with a shuddering and will have to get under there to see if the setup is the same. There is actually a TSB on this issue that covers a bunch of BMWs. It is SIB 27 02 20
Just tried having this done and it seems like the dealer (a friend of a friend) could net get it to calibrate and system is now disabled running only RWD with dash light now on (were not before). Do you know if there is a concern with uninvited it like it is and just trying to clear lights on dash. Car is 2015 X5 M sport, not M.
@@eddiemcars actually after about 2 days it all went away. It must have recalibrated itself and now feeling great. No light and no binding feeling. The oils change worked.
this tool is calibrating the unit for parts replacement, has nothing to do with fluid time stamps and friction reset. The new fluid will not be handled correctly. Get a bmw expert to handle your maintenance before you cause harm and expensive failures.
I have been working on these cars for 20+ years now. Running the calibration for the TC is not necessary when changing the fluid. This is only required when you actually open up the case and replace physical components inside or the actuator. Change the fluid, seal her back up, and call it a day.
If you do replace the actuator, I like to drive her first and see if there are no symptoms. If the symptoms are gone great! Leave her alone.
I've had cases where running the calibration led to shudder.
Also don't forget to check your tires. If I had to give it a %, I would say 80% of TC symptoms are due to tire and alignment issues.
Very helpful video. I used a CTA Tools 1136 14mm stubby socket to remove the fill plug. About $9 on Amazon. It worked great. My X5 similarly did not have a drain plug - thanks BMW! Used the same extractor as in the video initially. Switched to an old Mityvac hand vacuum pump to get the remainder of the fluid. Refilled with about 18oz of DTF-1.
Good looking out on that tool part number!! 🫡 exactly what I’ve been looking for.
I got this tool thanks worth it and useful on front, rear, transfer and transmission plugs
Thanks for this. I bought the angled wrench but ended up using a normal ratcheting 14mm wrench. Being able to position the wrench at any angle made it easier to loosen.
Dude i wish i can do this to my x5. You have talent sir
You were cracking me up when you were touching that screen and it wasn’t doing anything! 🤣
Lol
I must be getting old.
Thank you for the video with the guide, your efforts is very knowledagble. Not clear was foxwell helpful in calibrating and does callibrating tool also help in removing the errors?
Hi! The Foxwell tool or something similar is needed for calibration of the transfer case. It can also be helpful tool for removing errors and performing other task.
@ did it work for you and is it a must for preventive maintenance since it just a oil flip?
Another great DIY, this applies to F16 X6 and F86 X6Ms as well.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Ive just done a transfer case fluid change on my 200,000 mile e53 6sp manual, and on mine I had the luxury of both a drain and filler plugs. It took about 750ml. Sadly though, I only have INPA, both old and new versions don't do adaptations. So looks like I'll be on the look out for a Foxwell as my laptop isnt powerful enough for ISTA. Incidentally, you can run these in RWD only wothout any problems. I now have a switch to switch between the 2. Ok, you lose abs and traction control, but its nice to have during summer months and on long hauls. Ive almost got the abs to work while in rwd only now too, just need to work out the internal buffer circuit in the vtg module. If someone has started to notice the skipping and misbehaving of the VTG and doesn't have the ability to change the fluid and recalibration, then i would suggest unplugging the actuator motor on the side of the transfer case (with ignition off, that's essential) and running in rwd until you get time to sort it properly. This way it takes the strain from the transfer box clutches and could stop further wear/damage. Thanks again and greeting from UK.
Recently did the transfer case on my 2017 X5 xDrive35i. I used Redline MT-LV 70w75 which has the BMW approval for xDrive transfer case.
Any noticeable improvement with the redline fluid or about that same?
@@eddiemcars I noticed some better gas mileage (+1-2mpg). Also that was after doing both differentials (also Redline 75w85), transfer case and an oil change (from a 5w40 to a 0w30).
Hi Eddie, thanks for the effort. I see You got stressed a lil bit once You got all those codes ^_^
I was going to ask You since You use BimmerCode, does it allow to make that VTG calibration, because You used different tool for this job.
Also in older X5 (E70) there was a drain plug at the bottom of the VTG, but I guess they have change it in F-generation, possibly more work for dealers.
Regards
The unit in this video is the ATC45L. That one has no drain plug. The fluid must be sucked out of the fill plug, and the refilled through the same point.
Also, there is no official transfer case fluid service at the dealer. In fact, dealers will not even let techs touch them. They consider them "sealed and filled for life." If they suffer a failure, the entire unit is replaced 😂
The only driveline service the dealer will perform is front differential, transmission, and rear differential.
Thank you for the video.
I have a question: My x6 has 126k miles, and I've never changed tranny fluid on it. Asked BMW service manager to replace it, he said it's better not to do it since it's overdue, and if I'll change it, it may not shift right. Is it true or not? I really want to change it, but afraid having problems after.
Thanks.
Thank you great video 1 question would it be ok to use amsoil atf fluid?
Thank for posting this, I need to do the same for my 2015 F15.
Is it doing the shuddering thing as he mentions. How did it behave after you changed the fluid? I have the same vehicle and its doing this too.
Hi I really enjoy your tutorials and was wondering what type of winter tires do you use? Where I live we have some decent winters but hot summers so would be good to another set. Thanks!
Hi. Thank you! I used Yokohama Blue Earth on the factory 20” wheels
@@eddiemcars Really appreciate it, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for ur help my man I try hard with my automotive goals man
FYI, the manufacturer repair manual is recommending removing the cross member which is that big piece of metal obstructing the access to the drain port. It is also mentioned to support the transmission with a lifter before removing the cross member. It is a bit more work but it will save the frustration to access that port. Anyway, good video presentation.
No, I’m not doing all that! Lol
Took me 5 min to work the tubing into the fill hole to extract and refill the fluid.
Great video. Keep them coming 👌👌
I bought a cheap set of metric hex keys with the large sizes, up to 17 mm, included. I used my chop saw and cut 2 1/4 long piece off the long side of the 12 through 17. Using boxed end wrench on those hex slugs has made drain and fill plugs easy on many vehicles. The large metric 3/8 and 1/2 drive bits are too long to get in for so many vehicles. The Snap-on and other specialty brands make shorty versions but get a huge price for something used mostly to add or drain oil.
That sounds like it would be worth it to make changing fluids and getting into the tight areas easier.
Thanks for this video... I'm looking to do differential and transfer case fluid changes on my F85 also.. Didn't know about the reset... What happens if the reset isn't done after the TC change? Rough drive?
If you don’t do the reset you should be fine. The reset only helps the transfer case clutches adapt to new fluid.
In my case, my car was experiencing a shudder on wet surface and sharp turns. It went away after the reset.
Great write up Ed! I have a ‘17 F15 50i and did the front and rear diff, transmission, and transfer case all at 50K miles after reading a lot of posts on Bimmerforums. Out of the 4 fluids, the transfer case was by far the darkest. I plan on doing just the transfer case again at 75K miles and then all of them at 100K. Interestingly, I found differing opinions about the requirement to recalibrate after only a fluid change and since I only have bimmercode, I elected not to pay for another device to recalibrate…probably a good thing to do for sure, but mine has been operating perfectly for 6K miles and I can’t talk you how much better the car coasts with fresh driveline fluids!! I used the BMW OEM xfer fluid, and liqui moly gear oil and 1800 atf in the ZF tranny. Keep up the good work!!!
I don’t think it’s required to do the VTG calibration. I only did it because I didn’t want the shudder to come back. I drove it around the block before the recalibration to make sure there weren’t any leaks and it drove fine. The clutch adjustment appeared minimal.
How was the front and rear diff? Thats going to be my next job. Interesting that the transfer case was the darkest.
@@eddiemcars ah I see. That makes sense-if mine were making noise, I would have sought out the means to recalibrate too. I think the xfer fluid was so dark, because of the shear lack of volume of fluid-hard to believe there’s only 1/2 L in there. No wonder it’s the weak link in the drivetrain. Hence the reason I’m increasing the change interval. Front diff is easy, fill plug on drivers side wheel well area, and it has a drain plug. Rear was only full plug and I used same metal coat hanger tube you have. However if the F85 comes standard with the DHP type torque vectoring diff, you’ll have 3 separate chambers with drain and fill plugs on all and I believe the middle chamber takes a different type of gear oil than the outer two. I have the standard non-DHP diff. Trans fluid is easy as ECS tuning or FCP sell a kit that includes the pan/gasket/filter so it’s just drain, remove and swap the pan, install with new screws and then fill using ISTA or BimmerLink to watch the trans temps as you fill (procedure is written up on binmerforums if you search, it’s too long to post here but not complicated…). It’s really not as hard as it seems.
@@eddiemcars your transfer case fluid looked very black ; it’s a good thing you changed it
Hi Ed have you done the rear diff? Any video thanks.
No. I was too afraid. With the 3 chambers and everything has to be measured correctly, I didn't want to take the chance.
@@eddiemcars i'm gonna go do it this week and measure everything out and just match that going back in.
Thank you bro. Do you know the torque spec. for this plug?
Isn’t there a fill plug at the top and drain plug at the bottom?
Thanks for the video. Mine has been experiencing the same issues under low speeds when turning, currently at 84k. Dealer states the center diff is a $7,500 "lifetime part" and that it's time for a rear transfer case fluid change ($500). Only when asked about the front diff was I presented with an additional quote.
I would definitely give the the transfer case a try as well as recalibrate the VTG. It make fix your issues as long as there isn’t permanent damage.
Thanks for doing the video. What was the reason for the fluid change?? Just had mine done because I had a shaking and hesitation which the dealer wanted to sell me a $7,000 transfer case. We changed the fluid and now the shaking and hesitation is gone.
I did the fluid change because of a weird binding sensation I was getting when turning. I'm thinking it could have been the tires but I wasn't sure.
@@eddiemcars mine felt very much like a miss or bad plug/coil going down. Almost 38,000 miles... I was blown away that it could possibly be the transfer case. Ended up being a fluid/modifier clutch pack issue. completely
Would you experience this shaking/hesitation during acceleration? Curious because that is what I am experiencing and don’t want to pay thousands for a new transfer case if all I need to do is a fluid change
@@smokedoutog6398 do the fluid change first for sure. They tried to sell me a transfer case as well. The fluid change fixed it 100%
should put a little bit of the weight on the jack stands.. when a vehicle falls a lot of time one side fall first and its not even and the loose stands will fall. Ask me how i know!! thankfully I'm alive
That’s a good tip! Thank you
All done with a nice watch on .. 😉nice video I have x3 same config 1 plug..w a cross member supporting TC. Double ramps nice idea
I think GL5 fluid is key spoke with napa and they said that is the key.. 75w90 synthetic Valvoline in my front and rear boxes...front has drain plug ..great nope...siphon. my TC same thing siphon...2014 x3
Great video. Thank you for doing. I had my differential go two times in 1 year on my 2008 X5 E70 4.8i sport with 125,500 miles because the transfer case was slipping. It sounds crazy, but that was the issue stated by BMW America and my independent BMW technician The clutch packs were slipping letting all the torque down the rear. I changed the oil and reset the adaptations. I was getting the code 54C6 oil wear. Such a small problem cost me. I haven’t had any issues since the oil change.
Are you saying the fluid change alone fixed your differential problems?
@@eddiemcars Hello, from 02368. BMW stated this in a letter. Not saying just a oil change will correct. My BMW didn’t have issues after the oil change. Two differentials in one year was concerning to me. Very expensive. I needed to understand why it as happening. I just didn’t want to throw parts. The 2008 X5 with the 4.8i sport with the 315 tires were problematic at times with catastrophic failure. Probably not a good year I should have purchased. I’ve had other issues as well SMH. I had one of two things to do. Rebuild the transfer clutch packs or put a new one in. I chose the oil change first because of the oil wear code. My lesson learned when owning my next BMW. The E71 X6, all oil will be changed as the new owner the first day I get it home.
@@eddiemcars Hello again. I forgot about this one lol. This technician, I believe is from CT, he also explained my issues. I found him after the dealership and the independent shop explained what was going on. Just imagine going through exactly like this in the video two times in one year. ua-cam.com/video/PBoAdbyN23U/v-deo.html
Could you calibrate the transfer case with the bimmer link app? If not, I’m assuming the app is useless with it’s many functionalities.
Unfortunately I wasn’t able to use Bimmerlink to reset the VTG. Hopefully they will add that functionality.
Hey Ed first time X5M owner, how often should the transfer case fluid be changed?
Lifetime fluid. But you can change it whenever you like to try and maximize its life expectancy; just make sure to use genuine or an exact equivalent fluid .
Helpful video. Thanks!
I think it should be s prerequisite that all engineers have to work on the cars they design.
Hey great video! I think the procedure you used is for the diff and not the transfer case. the transfer case should have a drain plug. the hole that you extracted the fluid from in the fill area. extractor is not needed for transfer case except to fill it. I could be wrong. I'm going to do my diff fluid soon on my 2015 f15 x5 50i 80k mi. but hey at the end of the day you got the job done!
That’s possible. I didn’t see it though. I was afraid of pulling the wrong plug!
Correct procedure per BMW is to remove the Transfer case and dump the fluid out the vent. The F15 x5 bmw make the stupid decision to eliminate the drain plug.
Nope some models have a drain and fill...newer models have 1 plug...called BMW they said it's a siphon and fill
This unit is the ATC45L. That one does not have a drain plug. Only a full plug. This is how they save money (one less part to manufacture). You suck the fluid out of the unit with an extractor. It doesn't take much fluid to begin with.
Thanks for posting this. I have a 540d with a shuddering and will have to get under there to see if the setup is the same. There is actually a TSB on this issue that covers a bunch of BMWs. It is SIB 27 02 20
Yep. Make sure you check your tires and alignment. That's usually the cause in the majority of cases believe it or not.
E70 got drain plug, not sure f15
Just tried having this done and it seems like the dealer (a friend of a friend) could net get it to calibrate and system is now disabled running only RWD with dash light now on (were not before). Do you know if there is a concern with uninvited it like it is and just trying to clear lights on dash. Car is 2015 X5 M sport, not M.
I personally wouldn’t drive it like that. Have you ride a simple battery reset. Then try to calibrate it again.
@@eddiemcars actually after about 2 days it all went away. It must have recalibrated itself and now feeling great. No light and no binding feeling. The oils change worked.
Do you think the foxwell NT510 would reset the Transfer case ?
If you can download the BMW package on it, I can’t see why it couldn’t.
@@eddiemcars okay thank you brother it's coming with the BMW software installed
What do you do for a living man
next time put a floor jack under the transfer case with a little pressure and unbolt the transfer case support so you can have more access.
Mine just came up and says transfer case oil wear
The car told you or the device?
Thanks 👍👍
Does anyone know if it’s safe to do this at almost 169,000 miles
I have a code for oil wear and it has to be the transfer case ?
2014 x5 50i it’s m sport package not m
That looks entertaining
Great videos and no the foxwell isn't a touch screen 😀
Lol! 🤦🏽♂️
I couldn't extract fluid even with a small hose. Is there a angle that allows it to go deep into the Tcase? There must be some trick to it.
Going to remove my cross bar...just easier access to get all the fluid out..why BMW did this ...well I know why..
It’s the transfer case motor….
this tool is calibrating the unit for parts replacement, has nothing to do with fluid time stamps and friction reset. The new fluid will not be handled correctly. Get a bmw expert to handle your maintenance before you cause harm and expensive failures.
Like the experts who burned down my buddy’s X5? 😂
the video quality is very poor
I tried…