Thanks so much, I was so bummed out before watching this. I installed a Spektrum SLT-3 transmitter and receiver and noticed my top speed had decreased drastically. After watching this video I was able to set up my Kraton V-4 just how I like it. Thanks again for taking the time to teach us!
Damm!!! thanks for the info. I have had a notorious for a while now and have not had any problems like this, but I just bought my first Kraton yesterday and run it the first time today and about 15 minutes into it it just stopped working but the steering was working. I thought it was the battery so I changed it and it still didn’t work. I thought to myself this thing is junk,but I started researching on the web like I always do and found your video. It worked. Thanks a million for your videos I learn things from time to time from them. Keep bashing 😎👍
Great info! I wonder if that would've worked for the Spektrum 150 that died on me... Well it's too late now. It's been cannibalized to get one of my old blx185s working again.
I've gone over the manual and I can't find what the LED does when you reach LVC. I'm pretty sure I wasn't hitting thermal, but I suppose I could be, but it would run slow for a bit, then stop and the LED would blink red. The only thing the manual says for "red blinking led" is thermal. Which is odd considering my temp gun showed 120F at the heat sink.
@easttactics bro you are a champion! Arrma should be paying you for this vid, I’ve got 3 BLX systems on my 1:8’s trucks n buggy all 6’s and recently upgraded my Radio and lost my previous settings after watching this vid they are all come back to life doing wheelies for days on 4s only imagine what damage the 6s would do, appreciate this vid you made bro, heaps clear and precise down to the T. @Arrma you guys should hire this man as a tech support role person or send him out some stuff, his getting you guys business @easttactix keep uploadin these how to vids bro, your putting the smile back into everyones faces, I think I need to tune down one these trucks are lethal now 💪🏽🙉
The only evidence I can give to recommend not doing it is a) it’s not required for this tactic to work b) had a guy said he did it and something popped, fried his electronics. If you didn’t get any sparks/popping or smell anything funky then you might be OK. But yeah I wouldn’t recommend doing it. You might be fine though. What is the current status of your set up? Were you able to get everything back up and running?
Great video sucks mine is not working everything is working besides reverse and I can’t even get to the punch settings ether tried resetting the Esc but no luck
What exactly do you mean, it doesn’t have a switch. Did you have a nasty crash and it came out/ripped out? Send me a pic ...randyeast80@gmail.com Or create a quick video with your phone and upload it to UA-cam as “unlisted/not public” and send me a link to view it.
Have you tried some of the other tactics outlined in the video/comment section? Such as pulling the yellow wire terminal… Etc.?Sometimes trying it multiple times even using the orange wire instead of the yellow wire etc. finally kicks her into gear. Even seen some people have success after giving up and then trying it again the next day. Let me know
thx ET i was loosing my mind wahaha yeah realy i had a TIA but my left gashand is luckely still good only a litle numb on the left side of my body a tia is a small stroke but i can still drive my kraton hehe that is so nice peace thx very mutch
wanted to go n drive but to litle brake tried it but i couden t focus on the beeps and didn t understand the way they in the booklet explained it hehe ur expenation was perfect as always btw i did reinforce my kraton body with bison rubber repair works real good
Is the controller already on when holding down the set button and then power in the vehicle? When you’re holding down the set button, and you turn the power on …what is happening for you?
Yep controller on. I Turn the car on while holding the set button and there’s a pause then one beep. Then it goes through the settings. I’ve got steering but no throttle. ESC flashes with a red and blue light. Is an older arrma talion.
Is the ESC BLX 185? The ESC may have gone bad. It’s sort of more extreme tactic is found in a video of mine called the four blinking lights of death. You could consider trying some of those tactics to sort of kickstart your ESC back on track. But it’s a longshot and if not careful could start your ESC on fire lol . This video References it. Have you watched it?
My guess, though, is you’re not particularly having a major issue with your ESC if you’re finding that it is transitioning through the settings. Perhaps you just have a different model. Or is it in fact the BLX 185?
Can this esc be used with the stock 3s blx motor in the senton to provide more reliabilty. Also looking to upgrade to 4s in future but happy enough on 3s atm.
Attempt the advanced tactic A second time (if you haven’t already done that). Then if that still doesn’t work attempt the advance tactic but instead of pulling the yellow wire do it with the orange wire. Often times people only try once and then give up. When one of the things to keep in mind is this is sort of sending a shock into the system of the ESC. Similar to when a person flat lines and they get shocked. The doctors don’t just try it one time, they try it a couple before giving up. I’ve also seen somebody who is struggling to get it to work, they decided to run through the process of setting up a throttle end points. This for whatever reason kicked her into gear. Don’t get me wrong, there is still a chance that you might not be able to get her back up and running. At that point contact Arrma, explaining what’s going on and all the things you’ve tried to get it back working. Tell them you want them to send you a new one they are usually good about it. Try those things and let me know what happens.
No, the BLX185 cannot use 2S Lipo. It can only use 3S 4S or 6s Lipo. 2S Lipo would not provide enough power for the BLX185 to operate properly. I mean it’ll run, but it could be detrimental to both the ESC and the battery overtime.
Yes, you can do this, however, this is done through the ESC. It really has nothing to do with your SLT3 transmitter. The video here shows the steps on how to do it with the BLX 185. Things will be different with a firma 150. What ESC do you have? I’d be happy to Direct you to the instructions based on your model. Messing around with the brake settings and throttle settings, can make a significant impact on your rig. Most people don’t mess with the brake settings unless they add a ton of weight to their rigs like much larger tires or a lot of heavy upgrades. But a lot of people really do like to go in and up the punch setting from stock to , a higher setting, simply because they’ll get more torque off the line. And quicker access to impacting the vehicle in the air with taking advantage of the burst of inertia on the tires to initiate flips, backflips, etc..
What do you set the punch on mojave? I've been up to around 7 but haven't tried to do anything extra bashy with it like my others but have been wanting to try a backflip just not sure if 7 will cut it..
Yeah doing a backflip with the Mojave is a little bit more challenging with its elongated body. Certainly possible though. I’m sure you can pull it off with a seven. But you’re going to increase your likelihood a bit if you push it all the way to nine.
my blx 185 in my kraton 6s. When I turn it on it will flash green once then flash red very fast? It won’t reset the way you said in the video?! Any idea on a fix for this? Been reading and looking up solutions for over 2 hours 🤒🤒😣
How are you faring with this. I am unsure if I was able to get a response out to you. But just kind of digging through the comments sections in some of my videos in summer your post here. Were you able to figure things out?
Great video! I just purchased a arrma typhon 3s and I wanted to know if the 5 variable settings are in the same order as your arrma RC? meaning my typhon punch setting is 2 and my brake setting is 3? How would I find out ? Thx
Your manual has a page dedicated to this. If you got the blx-185, then ya... it’s the same. If not a blx-185... and you don’t have the manual... Maybe go in a Assuming they’re the same And the punch is setting two... when you stop there and hear say... four beeps (punch4) if you increase it by one you shoud then hear one long beep... this will confirm your in then punch module, as it’s the only one with “up to nine options” You can always hit up Arrma sit and at the bottom of the home page, they have a link called manuals you can dig into as well. Hope this helps.😎👍
That’s potentially a good sign. So you’ve gotten rid of the issue with there being absolutely no throttle at all. My guess is one of the five settings of the ESC is not set properly now, You might’ve accidentally changed the forward reverse setting or the motor rotation setting. I believe those settings are the fourth and fifth setting. The simplest thing to do might be to just reset it back to factory default now and see what happens. If you’re still not getting reverse then you might actually have accidentally tweaked one of your settings on your controller itself. There is a forward reverse function there. As well as your Throttle adjustment. If that dial is not set at about 6 o’clock then you might not actually get forward functionality. Look into those things and let me know what you figure out.
New Typhon 3S owner. Very informative video, thanks. On the blx100, is the brake strength for a drag brake or do you only get braking when triggering the throttle forward? Arrma website and manual say nothing about this.
It’s the brake strength not the drag strength. So when the vehicle is in forward motion and you simply let off the gas The drag you feel will be the same no matter what break setting you have set. Because the drag actually just comes from lack of power and the resistance the motor gives to the drivetrain through the differentials depending on what thickness of fluids you have etc. Now when moving forward at high speeds and you press the trigger forward to enact the break (some people actually mistakenly think that you’re asking the ESC to initiate reverse, however they are incorrect, while vehicle is moving forward, pushing the finger forward actually initiates the brake system) It’s only when you’re at a complete stop and finished with any breaking what activates reverse. however a lot of times reverse won’t actually activate unless you’ve completed your break motion with a full press forward. This video explains it. ua-cam.com/video/jg_iVaNUoY8/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics thanks for the response, I appreciate the help. It sounds like everything is operating as it supposed to then. Not having a drag brake is going to take some getting used to as my other cars (crawlers) all have it.
@@EastTactics I have attempted the normal factory reset where you hold the side button. Didnt work. Also tried the remove yellow power and didn't do anything.
Put a fully charged battery in, and try it one more time be sure to follow the exact steps of the yellow terminal tactic after the factory reset. If that doesn’t work attempt to do the yellow terminal tactic but instead of using the yellow motor terminal, use the orange one. If you want to take a break before doing this, i.e. wait till tomorrow, sometimes that’s a good idea. I’ve seen people get really frustrated trying all these things it doesn’t work. And then the next they just try to do it again and it worked. I’m Sure you don’t want to keep at it forever. There is a point where if it doesn’t work you should just get a hold of Arrma and have them ship you a new ESC. I’d say about 50% of the time when people reach out to me frustrated that it didn’t work and I talked him through the following, we get her going. Do Those things and let me know how it goes. I’ve also had somebody run through the throttle adjustment procedure and they’ve had some luck combined with the other things.
OK… So you’ve got your throttle back and your steering’s also working. Is there a specific additional need you have for factory resetting your ESC? Is everything back to normal?
Are you running the BLX 185? Do you have a full battery plugged in during the process? What issue are you experiencing that’s indicating it’s not working?
@@EastTactics it’s the box 100 from the typhon, well the instructions say it should light red and green, but it don’t do none of that. The car won’t go on reverse or just starts running on its own after I press the trigger
@@TESGAVI It might be the settings on your transmitter. make sure that your throttle adjustment is centered. Sometimes that knob gets knocked around and if it’s too far forward then the car will roll on its own in reverse will be missing.
You’ve got the BLX 185 correct? Have you pulled out your instruction manual and turned to the page that gives the breakdown on the steps to take for setting the break. And describes exactly what each beep represents? Maybe describe in a little bit more detail what do you mean by not working. Remember implementing the break with the finger forward motion will initiate a 37% (represented in the third setting, by two beeps) impact from stock, and can be changed to a 50%.(represented in the third setting by three beeps). And 25%, represented, in the third setting, by one beep. When entering into the third setting, how many beaps do you hear? Is your vehicle not slowing down at all one pushing the trigger all the way forward?
Honestly, I’m not a fan of the BLX 185, because it only pushes 6 V. you want to get an ESC that can run 7.4 V to your Servo. And then of course make sure that your server is also compatible with receiving a higher voltage for better stronger steering.
Sure… Plenty fast, I think when A 15lb object breaks 50 miles an hour, which the V4 stock set up will do. At least for me, that plenty quenches my thirst for speed. Course I’m more of a basher at heart then a speed runner.
Hi... I have switched my servo and on that point my ESC doesn't give throttle or breaking.. My ESC had 4 Settings what setting is for throttle. And i dont know how many underpoints this setting have... Btw my ESC get all signals but my Kraton (BLX 185) Doesn't move :((
first and foremost I fixed the times stamps in the description, now they area accurate. not sure why they were all 30 seconds off. now thats its fixed you can use it to go to the right spots. your first question "what setting is or throttle" settings overview is at 5:20 throttle endpoints is at time stamp 8:50 lastly if your Blx185 is not working after installing the servo, then unstall the servo, and put the one back in.. simply to see if you have a defunk servo, messing with your ESC. it the old servo puts things back in line. then install the new servo again, only pay really close attention to the way you have it set up. you very well could have something plugged in wrong. make sure your JST connectors are not plugged in filpped wrong, Then if you new servo ends up bringing back the issues with the ESC, you'll know its your Servo that is causing the issue. you can try the 4 flashing green ligths of death tactic by watching here... 10:13 or going to this video. to try to kick start your BLX 185 back into gear with the new servo. let me know if you iron it out. ua-cam.com/video/i_EkU30vmB0/v-deo.html worst case... you send the servo back and get a refund or a new one.
My ESC doesn't beeping.. Just light flashing.. My reset doesn't work... When my controller is on first of all my ESC flashing fast with red lights.. I can go to every single point of those 5 settings... I tried the Controller end points end and so on. But my vehicle justdont move.. I thing unfortunately that i adjust the whole settings :(
@@jok3rxsxs844 Can you do a factory reset just to set everything back to normal? Have you unplugged everything from your receiver and made 100% sure everything is plugged in correctly? Put brand new batteries in your transmitter. Use a different/fully charged Lipo battery. Also regarding my message above, did you uninstall the servo and reinstall the original one? Simply to test it?
Its possible that i activate low volt in the first set up... Or i activate motor rotation in the 4set up... My esc get a red light signal but after 30 seconds it gets no more signal...
@@jok3rxsxs844 You have the BLX-185 correct Any previous sets up mistakes you may have made should be resolved from a successful factory reset in the ESC. Have you achieved a successful factory reset? If after a factory reset, you’re getting 30 seconds of normal function and then all of a sudden you get no more signal, Then you may have a damaged ESC. If you would like, create a short video of your issue and upload it to your UA-cam channel as a private video. And then send it to me
Whats ups ACE, thanks for coming to me with your questions. Unfortunetly I dont know the answer to this one. Mostly because I'm not familiar with all the lingo in the industry. What does TX, and RX stand for? As you know I mostly dabble in the 4s and 6s powered vehicles. A 2s ESC must be for a much smaller class of RC. For which I am also not very fluent.
Have you ruled anything out yet? Have you already investigated your gears throughout the vehicle? Are any of them completely stripped? At first I might’ve just thought you have a stripped gear somewhere, like an input gear or a ring gear on your differential. But when you say your ESC is shutting off after a bit and you’re only getting up to 2 miles an hour, makes me think he might’ve blown a bearing in your motor. Your motor has two bearings on either end of it. Pull the motor out take it apart and see if that’s the case. If that’s not it let me know.
@@EastTactics that's what I've ruled out so far. The motor bearing or something is the only thing I haven't dug into. Trying to figure out how and what to do. Never got into a motor b4
Thanks for the video. Recently bought an Arrma Kraton 4s and the old esc blew. I bought a 185 esc and installed it and I can't get it to work right. When I calibrate the radial normally, the forward and reverse seem to be flip flopped, putting all power to the reverse motion when I pull the throttle to go forward and gives weak power forward when I push the trigger to go reverse. When I turn the radial to reverse, via the switch, to correct this, the car starts to have a mind of its own and drive itself. I then re calibrated the radial to the esc and tried opposite, setting reverse first, then forward. When I do this, the car will drive normally, but still will apply all power reverse including any punch adjustments I make. Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks a lot.
Unlucky Leader, Have you done a factory reset on the ESC? Consider doing that, that way you know with confidence that the all settings are at default. You need to make sure that the fourth setting (Running mode) is set on the default. This setting determines the forward reverse action from the ESC standpoint. When you know that is correct you need to make sure that your controller is also correctly set up. Are you running with the spectrum? Or the tactic? Either way there are two areas on the controller that need to be set correctly. The throttle switch itself, which generally is a switch, needs to be set on “R” for reverse. When this is set than pulling the trigger makes the vehicle move forward rather than the opposite. Next you need to make sure that your throttle trim is set correctly on your controller. On the tactic it is the middle knob. Generally you want that to be at 6 o’clock or pretty center. When starting to adjust that you’ll notice that the vehicle will start driving on its own if it’s not centered correctly. So between those three things you should be in good shape. If doing all these things still is causing you issues hopefully the factory reset will remedy that. Otherwise I would suggest completely Unhooking everything from your receiver box and make sure those things are plugged in correctly. Put brand new batteries in your controller and see if that helps. Let me know how it goes. I mean it’s worth considering that you might have a defective ESC as well but that’s a last call.
@@EastTactics I had the motor reverse lol I guess the color coat was messed up because I am using a 6s esc with a 4s motor. Had it running in reverse. Thanks for the response, gave you a sub.
I was gonna adjust the throttle endpoints but my esc never gives be the three beeps when I press the set button tooö set Reverse endpoint, and now I lost reverse... Any ideas? Reset the esc might work..
Jarok3, It might be possible that the throttle adjustment knob on your controller somehow got jostled around in your bag or maybe one of your little ones might’ve messed with it. But if the dial got turned all the way left then you’ll lose reverse Potentially. You need that dial on your controller to be set usually around 12 o’clock (Pretty centered). That’s my first thought. However you also might be right that simply doing a factory reset and just setting everything in the ESC back to default could fix the issue issue. Let me know what happens.
Brand new BLX185 tried to bind it with a brand new FSGT3 and I get a fast blinking red....so frustrating. Any advice besides going with a castle set up?
What all have you tried thus far? Factory reset? Yellow terminal pull tactic? Orange? Not sure if those topics will help in this implementation. But you never know.
@@EastTactics it won't allow me to factory reset. I can get into programming mode, but it always comes back to a fast red led. This literally hasnt run at all yet. Brandyyy newsky!
Explain what you mean by limp mode. Is this just your way of saying after about a minute run time the car shuts down? Or the car runs at 10% power? Is it 100% consistent, meaning after you power down and reset everything she runs at full power for 60 seconds Roughly? And then enters what you’re calling limp mode? I’ll definitely try to help you get to the bottom of this. Also… What vehicle Are you running? What ESC and motor are you running? What size pinion are you running?
Tell me what time stamp in the video where you see that. I was scrubbing through the video after reading your comment. But I don’t see anywhere where my steering is being twitchy?
2:37 I noticed it centre but moving back and forth in the horn maybe. You'll also notice your rhs wheel moving also.I only mentioned it because I've had alot of issues with savox servos presuming it is a savox
@@airtothewick Odd… I don’t know. I guess the factory reset fixed it. Because it disappears after LOL. And honestly I’ve never seen the issue, Or at least noticed it. Course now that I think about it that savox servo did take a dump on me and I had to replace it. In fact I got Saxox to send me a new one completely went out on me. But I know exactly why it broke, at least now looking back. large smacks on concrete. However now that I’ve implemented shock mitigation tactics underneath my servo. My new savox has been performing amazing. See vid - ua-cam.com/video/Gf77pUtEdzI/v-deo.html
That truck is wayyyyy too clean !! Fyi...the hobbywing program card works with these too. Just follow the manual. 1st line in the manual diagram is item 1on the card 1 st box is setting 1, etc.
Good video on everything for the BLX. But you left something out on the servo. How do I set the ESC to give me the 7.4V I need to my servo? From what I read there's no setting for this ? Do u know a way to do it? Why would any buy a HV servo if the is piece of shit ESC can even put out 7.4V to give the driver the best experience. 6S ESC don't make no sense.
I hear your frustration brother! The only reason why I didn’t bring up that feature in this video, is because unfortunately it doesn’t exist. The only way to run 7.4 V in the Kraton V4 Is by installing an external BEC and pumping it up. I myself didn’t realize that either and I picked up a heavy duty servo only to learn the same thing. The Blx 185 doesn’t push The juice it should. I agree with you 100% Arrma dropped the ball. At least they got it right with a V5. But that doesn’t really help us.
@@EastTactics thanks for the fast response 👍. Yeh I didn't realize it ethier when I built my Kraton EXB I use all the stock electronics got a great deal on them. I got a sovox servo and yup i cant use the full power but 6V isn't too bad I guess. For us power hobby servo is way to go $50 you can get 360oz of torque on coreless motor at 6V which is great. Glad they fix it for the V5. Yeh I'm gonna stick with $50 servos for now.
@@EastTactics i seen the kraton vids i should have bought one of them instead. Im gonna take this heap of crap back to flint and tell them i want it fixed or my money back
@@EastTactics these store owners dont tell you at time of purchase the things are junk they simply want your $ later on you at home stuck with the junk and your $ is gone. Not really worth it to me. I should have done my homework on them be4 i bought one. Was going to get a rustler that may have been a better move. I can say it is the esc not the motor based on lights and sound activity
Thanks so much, I was so bummed out before watching this. I installed a Spektrum SLT-3 transmitter and receiver and noticed my top speed had decreased drastically. After watching this video I was able to set up my Kraton V-4 just how I like it. Thanks again for taking the time to teach us!
Thank you sir!! Just what I was looking for. Your video is saved and you got another subscriber.
Nice!!
Thx Daniel👍😎
Another GREAT video- I learn so much from this channel!!!!!! EAST all your help has kept me from giving up on my RC at times. Keep up the hard work
Jim Halpin, thanks Jim!!!
Damm!!! thanks for the info. I have had a notorious for a while now and have not had any problems like this, but I just bought my first Kraton yesterday and run it the first time today and about 15 minutes into it it just stopped working but the steering was working. I thought it was the battery so I changed it and it still didn’t work. I thought to myself this thing is junk,but I started researching on the web like I always do and found your video. It worked. Thanks a million for your videos I learn things from time to time from them. Keep bashing 😎👍
That’s fantastic, I’m glad it works for you. It’s pretty Hit or miss for people when it comes to this problem.
After an extensive search this is the video I was looking for. Thank you sir. 👍 you have a new subscriber
Glad it helped, thx for sub’n my friend!!
Great info! I wonder if that would've worked for the Spektrum 150 that died on me...
Well it's too late now. It's been cannibalized to get one of my old blx185s working again.
I wouldn't be surprised if the tactic worked on any ESC. It's pretty outside the box in the way it kickstarts your ESC back on track again.
Thax for making this video brother 🤜🏼🤛🏻
🤜🤛
this is the best video for this I've seen on the internet thank you!!!
Anytime Chris, always happy to help. Hit me up if you ever need anything.
Very helpful you exspain perfectly for esc dummies. 😊
This is an absolutely awesome video dude.
It’s like alcohol. It’s fills me warmth and makes me happy. 👍
Well😝...I’ll definitely toast that 🍻
Thank you so much. I appreciate your video.
Glad it helped! 👍👍😎
Good tips
You can use a Hobbywing card to program it
Gracias 🤩 🙏🏻 buen video fue de mucha ayuda gracias 🙏🏻
U are the best
Thanks
Great video thanks for the info.i just got the arrma typhon v6 and in the book the punch setting is number 7 .
Helpful, cheers mate
Awesome brother, glad it helped!
Awesome video learned a lot about my Arrma
Andiroo Sal, thanks!!😎👍👊
Great demonstration!
Thanks!!😎👊💪
Great video I learned exactly what I needed to learn. Thanks
Awesome, I’m glad it helped!
Rite on mahalo Braddah that was very helpful 🤙
JJ’s SnB, glad I could help. 🤙
I've gone over the manual and I can't find what the LED does when you reach LVC. I'm pretty sure I wasn't hitting thermal, but I suppose I could be, but it would run slow for a bit, then stop and the LED would blink red. The only thing the manual says for "red blinking led" is thermal. Which is odd considering my temp gun showed 120F at the heat sink.
Either way, I highly recommend cooling fans.
@@EastTactics Yep. Got a dual 30mm alloy framed fan cooler on the motor and an alloy framed 35mm fan on the esc.
Great instructional vid! Subscribed!
Awesome... thanks for the sub!!
Another informative vid, thanks again mate!
My pleasure!
@easttactics bro you are a champion! Arrma should be paying you for this vid, I’ve got 3 BLX systems on my 1:8’s trucks n buggy all 6’s and recently upgraded my Radio and lost my previous settings after watching this vid they are all come back to life doing wheelies for days on 4s only imagine what damage the 6s would do, appreciate this vid you made bro, heaps clear and precise down to the T. @Arrma you guys should hire this man as a tech support role person or send him out some stuff, his getting you guys business @easttactix keep uploadin these how to vids bro, your putting the smile back into everyones faces, I think I need to tune down one these trucks are lethal now 💪🏽🙉
❤️❤️❤️
Thanks bro. Very helpful.
Phantasm3678, Anytime my friend, glad I could help. 😎👊👍
why not pull the trigger with any lead terminals disconnected? I've done that a few times in the past, hope I did not damage anything
The only evidence I can give to recommend not doing it is
a) it’s not required for this tactic to work
b) had a guy said he did it and something popped, fried his electronics.
If you didn’t get any sparks/popping or smell anything funky then you might be OK. But yeah I wouldn’t recommend doing it.
You might be fine though. What is the current status of your set up? Were you able to get everything back up and running?
I guess I'm pretty randomly asking but do anyone know a good website to watch new series online ?
Great video sucks mine is not working everything is working besides reverse and I can’t even get to the punch settings ether tried resetting the Esc but no luck
My esc doesn’t have a switch I took it apart and I don’t see where it went it has the receiver plug and temp sensor wire only
What’s the brand and model of your ESC do you have any way of looking at the instructions on it to see if there’s a way to do a factory reset
@@EastTactics it’s the one in the video blx 185
What exactly do you mean, it doesn’t have a switch. Did you have a nasty crash and it came out/ripped out?
Send me a pic ...randyeast80@gmail.com
Or create a quick video with your phone and upload it to UA-cam as “unlisted/not public” and send me a link to view it.
Very very very very helpful my brodaaa 👍🙌👏👍🙌👏👍👌👍👌👍👌💪💪💪💪
TU si puede, Thanks! Glad I was helpful
i am only getting green flashes while trying to get it back to default mode
Have you tried some of the other tactics outlined in the video/comment section? Such as pulling the yellow wire terminal… Etc.?Sometimes trying it multiple times even using the orange wire instead of the yellow wire etc. finally kicks her into gear. Even seen some people have success after giving up and then trying it again the next day. Let me know
thx ET i was loosing my mind wahaha yeah realy i had a TIA but my left gashand is luckely still good only a litle numb on the left side of my body a tia is a small stroke but i can still drive my kraton hehe that is so nice peace thx very mutch
wanted to go n drive but to litle brake tried it but i couden t focus on the beeps and didn t understand the way they in the booklet explained it hehe ur expenation was perfect as always btw i did reinforce my kraton body with bison rubber repair works real good
What does it mean if it doesn’t give me the first really fast beeps to set my throttle and brake position?
Is the controller already on when holding down the set button and then power in the vehicle? When you’re holding down the set button, and you turn the power on …what is happening for you?
Yep controller on. I Turn the car on while holding the set button and there’s a pause then one beep. Then it goes through the settings.
I’ve got steering but no throttle. ESC flashes with a red and blue light. Is an older arrma talion.
Is the ESC BLX 185?
The ESC may have gone bad.
It’s sort of more extreme tactic is found in a video of mine called the four blinking lights of death. You could consider trying some of those tactics to sort of kickstart your ESC back on track. But it’s a longshot and if not careful could start your ESC on fire lol .
This video References it. Have you watched it?
My guess, though, is you’re not particularly having a major issue with your ESC if you’re finding that it is transitioning through the settings. Perhaps you just have a different model. Or is it in fact the BLX 185?
Can this esc be used with the stock 3s blx motor in the senton to provide more reliabilty. Also looking to upgrade to 4s in future but happy enough on 3s atm.
Yes
Awesome stuff bro now I understand properly thanks to you . Thanks for sharing 😎👊
Glad to help
Fantastic video! Subbed!
RED ROX RC thx!!
Thx a million!!😝👍💪😎
Keep it up bro; had no idea thanks;)
Appreciate it
my esc is still brocken
I’d be happy to help you try to resurrect it. What have you tried so far?
@@EastTactics everything that you showed
Attempt the advanced tactic A second time (if you haven’t already done that). Then if that still doesn’t work attempt the advance tactic but instead of pulling the yellow wire do it with the orange wire.
Often times people only try once and then give up. When one of the things to keep in mind is this is sort of sending a shock into the system of the ESC. Similar to when a person flat lines and they get shocked. The doctors don’t just try it one time, they try it a couple before giving up.
I’ve also seen somebody who is struggling to get it to work, they decided to run through the process of setting up a throttle end points. This for whatever reason kicked her into gear.
Don’t get me wrong, there is still a chance that you might not be able to get her back up and running. At that point contact Arrma, explaining what’s going on and all the things you’ve tried to get it back working. Tell them you want them to send you a new one they are usually good about it.
Try those things and let me know what happens.
@@EastTactics ok it might be the ESC that's not working i might need to get s new one. doing it now
didnt work :(
Thank u for this u rock
Seba Chill, thank you so much! I really appreciate the feedback. If you ever need anything, I’m happy to promptly help.
Can the blx185 be used with 2s
No, the BLX185 cannot use 2S Lipo. It can only use 3S 4S or 6s Lipo. 2S Lipo would not provide enough power for the BLX185 to operate properly.
I mean it’ll run, but it could be detrimental to both the ESC and the battery overtime.
Can I do this with the original transmitter the SLT3 , I have the notorious 6s v5 blx
More than likely yes. But I’m not sure exactly what you mean by “this” in your question. Can you clarify.🙂
@@EastTactics like adjusting the brake settings and throttle settings I feel like this is too much to do
Yes, you can do this, however, this is done through the ESC. It really has nothing to do with your SLT3 transmitter. The video here shows the steps on how to do it with the BLX 185. Things will be different with a firma 150. What ESC do you have? I’d be happy to Direct you to the instructions based on your model.
Messing around with the brake settings and throttle settings, can make a significant impact on your rig. Most people don’t mess with the brake settings unless they add a ton of weight to their rigs like much larger tires or a lot of heavy upgrades. But a lot of people really do like to go in and up the punch setting from stock to , a higher setting, simply because they’ll get more torque off the line. And quicker access to impacting the vehicle in the air with taking advantage of the burst of inertia on the tires to initiate flips, backflips, etc..
@@EastTactics I have the notorious 6s v5 blx
150A esc
What do you set the punch on mojave? I've been up to around 7 but haven't tried to do anything extra bashy with it like my others but have been wanting to try a backflip just not sure if 7 will cut it..
Yeah doing a backflip with the Mojave is a little bit more challenging with its elongated body. Certainly possible though. I’m sure you can pull it off with a seven. But you’re going to increase your likelihood a bit if you push it all the way to nine.
my blx 185 in my kraton 6s. When I turn it on it will flash green once then flash red very fast? It won’t reset the way you said in the video?! Any idea on a fix for this? Been reading and looking up solutions for over 2 hours 🤒🤒😣
tyler bailey, You’ve tried the advanced technique with the yellow wire correct? Try it with the orange wire… And see what happens
How are you faring with this. I am unsure if I was able to get a response out to you. But just kind of digging through the comments sections in some of my videos in summer your post here. Were you able to figure things out?
Great video! I just purchased a arrma typhon 3s and I wanted to know if the 5 variable settings are in the same order as your arrma RC? meaning my typhon punch setting is 2 and my brake setting is 3? How would I find out ? Thx
Your manual has a page dedicated to this.
If you got the blx-185, then ya... it’s the same.
If not a blx-185... and you don’t have the manual...
Maybe go in a Assuming they’re the same
And the punch is setting two... when you stop there and hear say... four beeps (punch4) if you increase it by one you shoud then hear one long beep... this will confirm your in then punch module, as it’s the only one with “up to nine options”
You can always hit up Arrma sit and at the bottom of the home page, they have a link called manuals you can dig into as well.
Hope this helps.😎👍
@@EastTactics very helpful and much appreciated Bro. Thx
I did this factory reset and now it flashes red when I turn it on and it won’t go in reverse.
That’s potentially a good sign. So you’ve gotten rid of the issue with there being absolutely no throttle at all. My guess is one of the five settings of the ESC is not set properly now, You might’ve accidentally changed the forward reverse setting or the motor rotation setting. I believe those settings are the fourth and fifth setting. The simplest thing to do might be to just reset it back to factory default now and see what happens. If you’re still not getting reverse then you might actually have accidentally tweaked one of your settings on your controller itself. There is a forward reverse function there. As well as your Throttle adjustment. If that dial is not set at about 6 o’clock then you might not actually get forward functionality. Look into those things and let me know what you figure out.
Did you ever figure your issue out? I have the same problem
What exactly are you experiencing! Have you implemented any of the tactics from the video?
Anybody know how to fix arrma mega3s with this issue? No throttle, just steering
What ESC is that thing using?
What all have you tried already?
New Typhon 3S owner. Very informative video, thanks. On the blx100, is the brake strength for a drag brake or do you only get braking when triggering the throttle forward? Arrma website and manual say nothing about this.
It’s the brake strength not the drag strength. So when the vehicle is in forward motion and you simply let off the gas The drag you feel will be the same no matter what break setting you have set. Because the drag actually just comes from lack of power and the resistance the motor gives to the drivetrain through the differentials depending on what thickness of fluids you have etc.
Now when moving forward at high speeds and you press the trigger forward to enact the break (some people actually mistakenly think that you’re asking the ESC to initiate reverse, however they are incorrect, while vehicle is moving forward, pushing the finger forward actually initiates the brake system)
It’s only when you’re at a complete stop and finished with any breaking what activates reverse. however a lot of times reverse won’t actually activate unless you’ve completed your break motion with a full press forward. This video explains it.
ua-cam.com/video/jg_iVaNUoY8/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics thanks for the response, I appreciate the help. It sounds like everything is operating as it supposed to then. Not having a drag brake is going to take some getting used to as my other cars (crawlers) all have it.
Thats great... but does it also apply to Mojave (stx2.. 🤐)..?
Yes its the same blx 185 esc same set up
@@jessewilliamson2408
Thx 👌👌👌👌👌
Yes it does, I see Jesse got to you first. (Thanks Jesse)
Was hopping this will fix my no throttle but car won't go into reset. Just continues to flash red. Can't get green to happen??!
Have you already performed both a factory reset, and then after that attempted the yellow terminal advanced tactic?
@@EastTactics I have attempted the normal factory reset where you hold the side button. Didnt work. Also tried the remove yellow power and didn't do anything.
Alright well I just reset my throttle end point again and now I have throttle. Everything works but I still can't factory reset...
Put a fully charged battery in, and try it one more time be sure to follow the exact steps of the yellow terminal tactic after the factory reset. If that doesn’t work attempt to do the yellow terminal tactic but instead of using the yellow motor terminal, use the orange one.
If you want to take a break before doing this, i.e. wait till tomorrow, sometimes that’s a good idea. I’ve seen people get really frustrated trying all these things it doesn’t work. And then the next they just try to do it again and it worked.
I’m Sure you don’t want to keep at it forever. There is a point where if it doesn’t work you should just get a hold of Arrma and have them ship you a new ESC. I’d say about 50% of the time when people reach out to me frustrated that it didn’t work and I talked him through the following, we get her going.
Do Those things and let me know how it goes.
I’ve also had somebody run through the throttle adjustment procedure and they’ve had some luck combined with the other things.
OK… So you’ve got your throttle back and your steering’s also working. Is there a specific additional need you have for factory resetting your ESC? Is everything back to normal?
Why can’t I reset mine
Are you running the BLX 185? Do you have a full battery plugged in during the process? What issue are you experiencing that’s indicating it’s not working?
@@EastTactics it’s the box 100 from the typhon, well the instructions say it should light red and green, but it don’t do none of that. The car won’t go on reverse or just starts running on its own after I press the trigger
@@TESGAVI It might be the settings on your transmitter. make sure that your throttle adjustment is centered.
Sometimes that knob gets knocked around and if it’s too far forward then the car will roll on its own in reverse will be missing.
Need help. How can i set my break. I got arma typhon 6s but when i fallow your video still not work
You’ve got the BLX 185 correct? Have you pulled out your instruction manual and turned to the page that gives the breakdown on the steps to take for setting the break. And describes exactly what each beep represents?
Maybe describe in a little bit more detail what do you mean by not working. Remember implementing the break with the finger forward motion will initiate a 37% (represented in the third setting, by two beeps) impact from stock, and can be changed to a 50%.(represented in the third setting by three beeps). And 25%, represented, in the third setting, by one beep.
When entering into the third setting, how many beaps do you hear?
Is your vehicle not slowing down at all one pushing the trigger all the way forward?
Did you get’r running the way you want?
You think the blx 185 combo would be a good set up for my revo 3.3 conversion?
Honestly, I’m not a fan of the BLX 185, because it only pushes 6 V. you want to get an ESC that can run 7.4 V to your Servo. And then of course make sure that your server is also compatible with receiving a higher voltage for better stronger steering.
Other then not pushing your servo like you want do you think its a decent set up to go in a revo
Sure… Plenty fast, I think when A 15lb
object breaks 50 miles an hour, which the V4 stock set up will do.
At least for me, that plenty quenches my thirst for speed. Course I’m more of a basher at heart then a speed runner.
Yea I don't need to go any faster then 50 lol I like bashing around more
Hi... I have switched my servo and on that point my ESC doesn't give throttle or breaking..
My ESC had 4 Settings what setting is for throttle.
And i dont know how many underpoints this setting have...
Btw my ESC get all signals but my Kraton (BLX 185)
Doesn't move :((
first and foremost I fixed the times stamps in the description, now they area accurate. not sure why they were all 30 seconds off.
now thats its fixed you can use it to go to the right spots.
your first question "what setting is or throttle"
settings overview is at 5:20
throttle endpoints is at time stamp 8:50
lastly if your Blx185 is not working after installing the servo, then unstall the servo, and put the one back in.. simply to see if you have a defunk servo, messing with your ESC. it the old servo puts things back in line. then install the new servo again, only pay really close attention to the way you have it set up. you very well could have something plugged in wrong. make sure your JST connectors are not plugged in filpped wrong,
Then if you new servo ends up bringing back the issues with the ESC, you'll know its your Servo that is causing the issue.
you can try the 4 flashing green ligths of death tactic by watching here... 10:13 or going to this video. to try to kick start your BLX 185 back into gear with the new servo. let me know if you iron it out.
ua-cam.com/video/i_EkU30vmB0/v-deo.html
worst case... you send the servo back and get a refund or a new one.
My ESC doesn't beeping.. Just light flashing..
My reset doesn't work... When my controller is on first of all my ESC flashing fast with red lights..
I can go to every single point of those 5 settings...
I tried the Controller end points end and so on. But my vehicle justdont move.. I thing unfortunately that i adjust the whole settings :(
@@jok3rxsxs844
Can you do a factory reset just to set everything back to normal?
Have you unplugged everything from your receiver and made 100% sure everything is plugged in correctly?
Put brand new batteries in your transmitter. Use a different/fully charged Lipo battery.
Also regarding my message above, did you uninstall the servo and reinstall the original one? Simply to test it?
Its possible that i activate low volt in the first set up... Or i activate motor rotation in the 4set up...
My esc get a red light signal but after 30 seconds it gets no more signal...
@@jok3rxsxs844
You have the BLX-185 correct
Any previous sets up mistakes you may have made should be resolved from a successful factory reset in the ESC. Have you achieved a successful factory reset?
If after a factory reset, you’re getting 30 seconds of normal function and then all of a sudden you get no more signal, Then you may have a damaged ESC.
If you would like, create a short video of your issue and upload it to your UA-cam channel as a private video. And then send it to me
Quick question, I have a arrma mega 2s esc without a set button. And want to use a different tx and rx. Is this possible? Thanks for your time.
Whats ups ACE, thanks for coming to me with your questions. Unfortunetly I dont know the answer to this one. Mostly because I'm not familiar with all the lingo in the industry. What does TX, and RX stand for?
As you know I mostly dabble in the 4s and 6s powered vehicles. A 2s ESC must be for a much smaller class of RC. For which I am also not very fluent.
Why does my typhon grind under acceleration and only goes like 2 MPH then ESC shuts off??
Have you ruled anything out yet? Have you already investigated your gears throughout the vehicle? Are any of them completely stripped? At first I might’ve just thought you have a stripped gear somewhere, like an input gear or a ring gear on your differential. But when you say your ESC is shutting off after a bit and you’re only getting up to 2 miles an hour, makes me think he might’ve blown a bearing in your motor. Your motor has two bearings on either end of it. Pull the motor out take it apart and see if that’s the case. If that’s not it let me know.
@@EastTactics that's what I've ruled out so far. The motor bearing or something is the only thing I haven't dug into. Trying to figure out how and what to do. Never got into a motor b4
Thanks for the video. Recently bought an Arrma Kraton 4s and the old esc blew. I bought a 185 esc and installed it and I can't get it to work right. When I calibrate the radial normally, the forward and reverse seem to be flip flopped, putting all power to the reverse motion when I pull the throttle to go forward and gives weak power forward when I push the trigger to go reverse. When I turn the radial to reverse, via the switch, to correct this, the car starts to have a mind of its own and drive itself. I then re calibrated the radial to the esc and tried opposite, setting reverse first, then forward. When I do this, the car will drive normally, but still will apply all power reverse including any punch adjustments I make. Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks a lot.
Unlucky Leader, Have you done a factory reset on the ESC? Consider doing that, that way you know with confidence that the all settings are at default. You need to make sure that the fourth setting (Running mode) is set on the default. This setting determines the forward reverse action from the ESC standpoint. When you know that is correct you need to make sure that your controller is also correctly set up. Are you running with the spectrum? Or the tactic?
Either way there are two areas on the controller that need to be set correctly.
The throttle switch itself, which generally is a switch, needs to be set on “R” for reverse. When this is set than pulling the trigger makes the vehicle move forward rather than the opposite.
Next you need to make sure that your throttle trim is set correctly on your controller. On the tactic it is the middle knob. Generally you want that to be at 6 o’clock or pretty center. When starting to adjust that you’ll notice that the vehicle will start driving on its own if it’s not centered correctly. So between those three things you should be in good shape. If doing all these things still is causing you issues hopefully the factory reset will remedy that. Otherwise I would suggest completely Unhooking everything from your receiver box and make sure those things are plugged in correctly. Put brand new batteries in your controller and see if that helps. Let me know how it goes. I mean it’s worth considering that you might have a defective ESC as well but that’s a last call.
@@EastTactics I had the motor reverse lol I guess the color coat was messed up because I am using a 6s esc with a 4s motor. Had it running in reverse. Thanks for the response, gave you a sub.
Awesome brother, glad it got ironed out!😎
I was gonna adjust the throttle endpoints but my esc never gives be the three beeps when I press the set button tooö set Reverse endpoint, and now I lost reverse... Any ideas? Reset the esc might work..
Jarok3, It might be possible that the throttle adjustment knob on your controller somehow got jostled around in your bag or maybe one of your little ones might’ve messed with it. But if the dial got turned all the way left then you’ll lose reverse Potentially. You need that dial on your controller to be set usually around 12 o’clock (Pretty centered). That’s my first thought.
However you also might be right that simply doing a factory reset and just setting everything in the ESC back to default could fix the issue issue. Let me know what happens.
Brand new BLX185 tried to bind it with a brand new FSGT3 and I get a fast blinking red....so frustrating. Any advice besides going with a castle set up?
What all have you tried thus far? Factory reset? Yellow terminal pull tactic? Orange?
Not sure if those topics will help in this implementation. But you never know.
@@EastTactics it won't allow me to factory reset. I can get into programming mode, but it always comes back to a fast red led. This literally hasnt run at all yet. Brandyyy newsky!
Oh! So you haven’t even done the original bind yet? That weird It’s not working.
Have you checked the Arrma forums for banter on the topic?
@@EastTactics I've been on it all day. I'm ready to in the towel with ARRMAs electronics.
Are you able to bind it without any problems to the controller that it came with?
This the manual set up. To bad for me i cant hear the beeps ...tobdo it this way im going to have to buy the programer
Can i disable limp mode..car runs one minute and then engeges limp mode. I run 5000mah new lipo..tried multi batts n same.no one awnsers this!??????
Explain what you mean by limp mode. Is this just your way of saying after about a minute run time the car shuts down? Or the car runs at 10% power?
Is it 100% consistent, meaning after you power down and reset everything she runs at full power for 60 seconds Roughly? And then enters what you’re calling limp mode? I’ll definitely try to help you get to the bottom of this.
Also… What vehicle Are you running? What ESC and motor are you running? What size pinion are you running?
why is your steering super twitchy with no load or input
Tell me what time stamp in the video where you see that. I was scrubbing through the video after reading your comment. But I don’t see anywhere where my steering is being twitchy?
2:37 I noticed it centre but moving back and forth in the horn maybe. You'll also notice your rhs wheel moving also.I only mentioned it because I've had alot of issues with savox servos presuming it is a savox
@@airtothewick Odd… I don’t know. I guess the factory reset fixed it. Because it disappears after LOL. And honestly I’ve never seen the issue, Or at least noticed it. Course now that I think about it that savox servo did take a dump on me and I had to replace it. In fact I got Saxox to send me a new one completely went out on me. But I know exactly why it broke, at least now looking back. large smacks on concrete. However now that I’ve implemented shock mitigation tactics underneath my servo. My new savox has been performing amazing.
See vid - ua-cam.com/video/Gf77pUtEdzI/v-deo.html
That truck is wayyyyy too clean !!
Fyi...the hobbywing program card works with these too. Just follow the manual. 1st line in the manual diagram is item 1on the card 1 st box is setting 1, etc.
WD40 works wonders 😝😎👊
ua-cam.com/video/zDYB1_dUGoE/v-deo.html
Good video on everything for the BLX. But you left something out on the servo. How do I set the ESC to give me the 7.4V I need to my servo? From what I read there's no setting for this ? Do u know a way to do it? Why would any buy a HV servo if the is piece of shit ESC can even put out 7.4V to give the driver the best experience. 6S ESC don't make no sense.
I hear your frustration brother! The only reason why I didn’t bring up that feature in this video, is because unfortunately it doesn’t exist. The only way to run 7.4 V in the Kraton V4 Is by installing an external BEC and pumping it up. I myself didn’t realize that either and I picked up a heavy duty servo only to learn the same thing. The Blx 185 doesn’t push The juice it should. I agree with you 100% Arrma dropped the ball.
At least they got it right with a V5. But that doesn’t really help us.
@@EastTactics thanks for the fast response 👍. Yeh I didn't realize it ethier when I built my Kraton EXB I use all the stock electronics got a great deal on them. I got a sovox servo and yup i cant use the full power but 6V isn't too bad I guess. For us power hobby servo is way to go $50 you can get 360oz of torque on coreless motor at 6V which is great. Glad they fix it for the V5. Yeh I'm gonna stick with $50 servos for now.
I bought a granite its absolute junk
Yeah my favorite rig of all time is definitely the 6s Kraton. We’ll see if something I get down the road trumps it
@@EastTactics i seen the kraton vids i should have bought one of them instead. Im gonna take this heap of crap back to flint and tell them i want it fixed or my money back
@@EastTactics these store owners dont tell you at time of purchase the things are junk they simply want your $ later on you at home stuck with the junk and your $ is gone. Not really worth it to me. I should have done my homework on them be4 i bought one. Was going to get a rustler that may have been a better move. I can say it is the esc not the motor based on lights and sound activity