Ive gone from stock to 14 tooth tekno. I find 14 is a sweet spot esp for bashing as i dont need my K6 to go 65mph on a jump track lol 14 seems to have much more poke and goes faster at top end without any overheating issues which can occur with larger pinions.A sort of a balance i found was needed so as to not sacrifice instant (ramp) accelaration for too much top end which i will only really use on speed runs. Just think about where and how you want to drive before changing pinions guys - great vid as always East
Hi, just ordered my Kraton EXB at amazon an planning a Max6 1650kv Combo. You were the first source I found the info that I need a MOD 1 Pinion. Helped me a lot, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! Very much aprechiated :-)
That’s awesome! Two things …most of the videos that I’ve created will work just fine for the EXB. However the differentials are a bit different so if I don’t drop a video by the time you get to your differentials then there’s other great videos on them. However I recently picked up the EXB myself and plan on doing a series of videos on it as well. So stay tuned to my channel and we’ll go on the journey together
@@EastTactics Now that would be cool! Its my first 1/8th, so everything new for me. I've read that it would be good to shim the diffs to make them stiffer / more durable. Especially when adding lots of power. :-) What ESC / Motor will you put into your EXB?
Thanks for the video, made me understand the impact of the gears on top speed, accel and motor strain. I'll probably never go higher than the extra delivered one with 15 teeth, since I value better accel and motor health higher than top speed
My arrma senton mega 4x4 brushed came with a stock 17t pinion gear I upgraded to the 22t pinion. Made it hot. Burnt through the motor quick. I recently took out the brushed and converted to a 3660 3300kv and 60a esc I have a 26t in there. Would be open to recommendations for a good pinion for that. I am running stock spur in there. I currently have 2s lipo on it but gonna grab a 3s for fun. Also my motor is a 4t motor if that helps.
thank u so much for giving us complete knowledge about these pinion gears in our rc and much appreciated i'm using scx10trans and not enough speed that i'm expected since i get the 12t and 8module
Hey loved the video and thanks to you I finally understand more 😂 but I ordered a pinion 20t for now does it fit with a 50t hot racin spur or should I leave the stock spur ? What do u think it’s for a kraton 6s blx
KRYPTONITE LEGACY So long as the detailed instructions Or description outlined in your purchase of the hot racing Spur gear match the pitch or mod ratio On your pinion you should be good. But you need to confirm that they’re the same. Otherwise if you’re not sure you might consider sticking with the stock spur gear. That all said you do need to be really careful with increasing your pinion gear when still running the stock ESC and motor. Especially if you’ve already increased the spur gear. Unfortunately the stock ESC and the motor are not really compatible with pushing the limits of your opinion and spur very high. I myself started experiencing A lot of rear end breakages in my differential as well as cogging issues. I have since dropped my pinion back down to the 16t. I was running a 20t when the majority of my issues started happening. So you might be OK at 18 but just be warned. Also it is absolutely important that you massively increase the cooling on your motor. You don’t want your motor running any hotter than 150 to 160°. An 18 tooth pinion gear as well as a modified spur gear are definitely going to put you in the hot range. I dropped a few videos recently outlining NTF fans, they are killer! But a little bit pricey. So you might consider picking up the duel yeah racing fans. You can find details in the description on my master list for that product. As far as details about NTF just check out my most recent videos. Also if you’re not 100% sure what cogging is I have a video on that in my library. Bash on broski!
It’s actually a yoga mat, here’s a video that outlines everything. And you’ll find it in the Arrma Kraton V4 parts list, just keep scrolling down until you come across it ua-cam.com/video/jurXWNzWq0g/v-deo.html
The kraton would be brilliant, but I'm already going over my budget with the blx since I have to buy the charger and battery. This hobby seems like it is going to cause me to look for a 2nd ft job...
What stand are you using to pick it up that high with the wheels on. My kraton and nero tires will still touch the surface with my DuraTrax stand. Already know my 8s Kraton won't work with it at all. Great video!! Also for the 20T did you have to rotate the motor any? Think I'm running a 16 or 17 teeth right now and planning on going to a 20t after watching this video and a 23 or 24 for my 8s Kraton.
Hey Calvin, Great question. Mine is also the Dura tracks however I think it’s an older version that has a longer post. When I bought mine I specifically looked for this model. Check out this video at around the two minute mark, I show an image of the exact model I picked up off of eBay. Again I believe it’s actually a longer post then normal. ua-cam.com/video/gov56EolTK0/v-deo.html
I'm interested in your motor cooling fan. The link in the description is not the same as the fan you're using! Could you please share a link to the fan you're using? Thanks!!!
I wouldn't recommend the fan im using, its sort of cheap (broke on me) and its a pain to install. The yea racing duel fans are a better option... that said... if cooling is an important issue for where you live and bash. Check out my lates Vids showcasing NTF Fans... they are the cream of the crop. pricey, but well worth it! thanks for watching my vids. I apologize it took so long to respond to ya... sometimes comments dont seem to fall in my regular thread so I have to hit up the youtube studio and catch them. Bash on my friend!!
@@EastTactics Thanks for the reply. I'm also having the same issues on my channel and find myself going to Youtubue studio almost daily to check for comments that did not notify me. Thanks again, still looking for the perfect fan... it's getting really hot here in S.C.!!!
Stated in the video, "48P" is "Diametral Pitch." Re-labeling it Mod-1 is to keep people from ever understanding what diametral pitch even is. It is the intentional dumbing down of society. You can go from 3D printable gear pitch which is 25DP up to 48DP for steel cast gears to 96DP which are tiny teeth, and higher. Hope this helps.
Thanks for this video man just got myself a 18t pinion gear and had you had any chance to bash around with the bigger pinion gears? Got my kraton 6s on my channel brotha would like your input thank again
Awesome... be carful though, I learned the hard way, after going that high with an 18 and 20 tooth pinion gear, I started breaking rear diff pins and planetary gears. Turns out... the stock motor and stock ESC are not very compatible with that high a pinion. you might experience Cogging too. which is an annoying hesitation and clicking when hitting the throttle hard from the line. You might be fine tho... I think I started really only experiencing the issues i mentioned above when I tossed in a 20t pinion. Bash on brother!!!
@@EastTactics thanks for the info brother I actually had a cogging issue with the 18t pinion punch level 7 so I decided to put a 15t on punch level 9 and it's way more torque down low and does wheels doing 40+ lol Btw how did u fix the cogging with the bigger pinion gears ?
Hey man! Thanks for the helpful video, I just uprgraded to a castle 1520 1650kv motor and a mamba 8s esc. Just to confirm, should I go with a 20 tooth pinion? And what size spur gear? My exb is stock right now.
Thanks for the vide!!! Let me ask you a question since I having a hard time installing the front #M2CRacing front chassis brace in my v3 KRATON?Got the rear in no problem, but having some issues with the front brace! What do you need to take a part in order to get a driver or a pair of pilers to hold the nut while you screw in the top screw?
If i recall correctly when installing both my chassis braces, I used the small tool the arrma provided topside. Set the vehicle on its side and used the hex drive from underneath. I forget if I had to remove the center diff to get at it... I know its a nightmare removing that center diff in the V3. Sorry it took me a week to respond. I some how missed your question. I assume you've since figured it out. Bash on brother!
@@EastTactics all good, got both of them installed on my #v3 #KRATON & in my Notorious as well as Mitch's Shock Tower braces that work awesome. Free to stay connected with me on my page: facebook.com/Uplift-RC-2377703022267746/
Congrats on getting the new 8s Kraton, is there a reason why you’re looking to replace all of the stock components? Are you not happy with the current performance of the stock motor and ESC? Or the stock servo? Or is it more of a… Money is not an issue thing and you just want to upgrade it to the best of the best? I would say, since you’re new to the hobby enjoy the stock components get used to the vehicle and if you want to upgrade something simple just upgrade the pinion. Maybe go 21T or 22T. However if you do make sure you pick up a temp gun so you can make sure your temperatures on your motor and ESC are good.Also whenever you’re messing round with your pinion gear you’re asking more of your motor so it’s recommended to always put a fan on your motor. Now… With that said if you were just simply looking to upgrade all of the stock electronics to higher end stuff I would probably check out Rich Duper bashes videos. Just simply type in Arrma Kraton 8s. I believe I recently watched a video of his where he is running an 800kv motor, with limitless 36/36 gearing. I’ve seen other people with 39/39 gearing, but those types of set ups require upgrading the motor to much lower KV. I’m not as familiar with the 8S line, as my specialty is with the 6s. However another thing you might consider looking into is increasing the thickness of your center differential. I believe it comes stock at 1 million. Some people like up in that 20 million. If you’re not already familiar with the Arrma forums, check that out there are a ton of great set up Recommendations and good people to bounce ideas off of there. Highly recommend it
I'm building a Arrma limitless so far I have a kill mode tp 2900kv w/cap pack, xlx extreme, savox 7.4 sc-1268sg-be. Haven't started cause haven't decided on gearing. My question is I want to drift & bash on track with friends and still get a decent speed run when time is right, with out producing to much heat, what's you suggestion on gearing to accomplish such balance?
I’m not very well-versed in gearing up the Arma limitless. However what I can suggest you do is take a stroll over to the Arrma forum if you’re not already a member. I’m telling you there’s a ton of guys there that Are always willing to help. And I’m sure there’s a large group of limitless Masters www.arrmaforum.com
You kept calling the motor and engine lol. I know its just habit but just wanted to point it out. Great video. I also recommend if you ever wanna change the stock wheels grab some of the backflip lps that come on the 4s outcast. They work great
lol... I cringe when I re watch this video, I hate that I called it an engine so many time. I kicked that habit quick (as this is umung my older vids) Your right about the 4s backflip. In fact I recall one time hitting up Rich duper bash with what his favorite tires were, and I believe he told me it loved the 4s backflips too. thanks for commenting, and not busting my balls too much on the Engine thing. lol others haven't been so nice. :)
@@EastTactics Haha I could tell you were just starting to get into the hobby/youtube videos but you knew your stuff and were trying to help others which I appreciate! I've been in the hobby for only like 5 or 6 years so im even still learning things or breaking bad habits lol. Yup funny you say about Rich as we put them on our kratons at the same time lol. They are nice and light and don't ballon too crazy and hook up really nice. Plus they are cheaper then prolines. But yeah i completely understand about the engine/motor thing lol. Subbed! Ill stay tuned in. 👍🍻
Yes, I use, loctite 209741 Heavy Duty Threadlocker, it’s 270. I also use it for the motor pinion, and for attaching the out drive to the front and rear spiral input gears. I also use the red Loctite for the motor mount when attaching it to the chassis up from the bottom. Note, removal recommends heat, to break/loosen the bond. I use a smal lighter size butane torch. I use blue 242 Loctite however when securing the motor from the top while setting the mesh. Also note, that I have taken a Dremel to the two screws that attach/secure the motor (while setting the mesh) to the screws so that I now actually use a flat head screwdriver to tighten and remove those. See this video ua-cam.com/video/NAOAFfMpXIk/v-deo.html
Do you run your truck on 3s ever even though it’s 6s I got lots of 3s batteries I’m thinking if I can use 3s I can get lots of run time just worried I’ll mess up the motor or esc
I do run it on 3S, picked up the parallel adapter so I can plug both of them at the same time. 3s power for double the time. Can’t beat that. I haven’t done it a ton though, and it runs just fine on 3s power. I haven’t heard anything regarding it potentially being bad for the engine or bad for the ESC.
J Movision, no, what I mean is there is an adapter that allows you to plug in two 3S batteries into the system. You use the stock plug on one terminal that came with the car. And then you plug in a Y adapter to the other one. You then Plug two 3S batteries into the Y adapter and the car runs on 2 3S batteries power for double the time. Here’s a video that shows my batteries and charger ua-cam.com/video/LLp4Ld88xcI/v-deo.html
EL Valenin, I found it on eBay, had to pay close attention though, because you want to make sure you buy the one that’s got the taller metal pole. Also the blue stand has two indentations/pockets in it
So I’ve learned from experience after the creation of this video that you do not want to run a 20t pinion on stock electronics. While it will work, and the video here gives an accurate depiction of the speed increase. I found that I started breaking rear differential pins left and right. I started cogging. And unless you are running high powered cooling you definitely don’t want to run it because you’ll get too hot. Watch this video for a more recent overview of what you might consider doing and thinking about it ua-cam.com/video/s4-RjtQsMsU/v-deo.html With stock electronics, you really shouldn’t go past 16 T and if you get up to 16 teeth you really should be increasing your cooling over both your ESC and your motor If you want to start running 20 then you need to pick up a motor and ESC upgrade
I haven't purchased any tech to assist me in doing speed tests. I should though. Never really been to interested myself in speed run. Im all basher. That said tho... it would be cool to get one, and put more attention toward speed. thx for the suggestion.
I’ve seen people drill them out, but honestly why would you buy a new motor when you can simply just pick up a different pinion gear with the right hole size?
Oh OK so you’re talking the Kraton 6s, like mine. That set up could handle anywhere from 12 to 23 teeth. The gamble you make when going up as high as 20+ is the increase torque thrown out your differential, particularly your rear. Might be a bit more likely to bust gears/pins etc. However your motor/ESC combo can certainly handle it. 💪💪
You can test it out, you're kraton might be fine, but he's what you need to know. It comes stock with the 50t spur, did you, or are you planing to drop that to a 48T pinion as part of your strategy for running the 18T? Also... as you are likely aware the Kraton comes stock with a 15T high speed pinion. I'll assume that the 48T spur gear is not that much different then the 50T. this is what I can tell ya. Anything past 16t for your pinion, you're going to want to add a cooling fan for your motor. So keep that in mind. Now regarding 18t, thats definitely pushing the stock motor and ESC. I made a rookie mistake when I first started out in RC and tossed on that 20T pinion. It was a mistake, I started breaking planetary gears and pins in my rear differential right and left. I also started Cogging, which is an annoying stutter off the line due to a miscommunication between your senseless motor and your Esc. Happens because the stock motor and ESC do not like it when you start getting to high up there with your Pinion. Now granted I jumped all the way to 20T and was having those issues. So you might be fine going with 18T, especially if you drop the spur gear down 2T. but keep in mind your asking alot more of your drive train when you increase your pinion gear too much, and breakages are more common. Particularly in the rear end. Getting hardened steal diff pins from Mcmaster.com can help, as it adds a lot of strength to those pins. See this Vid for more info on that. ua-cam.com/video/cnT25bXYH3k/v-deo.html Also make sure your diffs are shimmed correctly both inside and out. ua-cam.com/video/gxY_QNpz2m8/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/03Jcis3yJDo/v-deo.html Typically when people want to really increase that pinion gear to 20+ they are doing it because they have picked a higher torque motor, that can handle the upgrade. 20+ teeth begs the need for a motor pushing 1600 -1800kv, and a better ESC to handle that motor. Speed is recouped from those lower KV motors by increasing that pinion gear to 20, 21,22, 23, etc. But stock motor and ESC cant handle that... happily, and without cogging and lots of diff gear breakages. If you have any other questions let me know.
Ya... dropped back to a 16t. 20T was killing my drive train, braking rear diff pin and planetary gears. Also cogging issues. 20t was too much for stock motor and stock ESC. I’m Much happier at 16t. 😎👍👊
I have, unfortunately I was doing it with the stock motor and ESC. Which ended up providing a cogging issue and also increased my breakages in the rear differential. So until I get a better motor and ESC I won’t be running A 20T pinion. I run a 16 to Pinyon on punch setting six. And while it’s not quite as insane. It’s still I’ll beast
You will have heat issues my kraton hit thermal protection with the 15 and 16 tooth so i got a 1730 long can hobbystar pair with a max 6 esc and a 19 tooth stupid power
@@EastTactics I've heard the hobbywing fan is the best for the arrma 6s line ill buy one and go back to stock to do some test wish I'd tried the fan first
I’m assuming your running the Arrma 6s Kraton, if so, with that low of KV motor I’d recommend a 22 or 23 tooth if you were running a stock spur (46T). However, you’ve changed yours to a 50t. What was your motivation for increasing your spur to 50? Correct me if I’m wrong… but going bigger on the spur increases torque and reduces top end speed What is your overall motivation? You building a speed runner? Or is off the line speed and low torque your goal in mind? A note to remember The closer the pinion & spur are in tooth count, the higher the speed. The further away they get in tooth count, the higher the torque output. So if you wanted to get more torque and less top speed out of our rig, you could either up the spur gear higher or lower your pinion gear down. If you wanted to get more speed for this truck, you could either 1) increase the pinion gear's tooth count or 2) lower the spur gear's tooth count. Both of these options will decrease the low end power of the truck while simultaneously increasing the overall top speed. If I had the 50t spur, and didn’t feel like changing it, I’d run perhaps a 23-25t pinion gear. 😎👍 As long as you are paying attention to the temperatures of your motor and speed control, there isn't a wrong gearing. Play around and find what works for you. Temperature Thresholds Motor Ideal - 140° 60° C Hot - 150 - 160° 65.5° - 71.1° C Overheat - 165° 74°C ESC Ideal - 135° 57.2° C Hot - 140 - 150° 60° - 65.5° C Overheat - 155° 68.3°C
I have an outcast 6s v2 it came stock 50 tooth spur running a 18 tooth pinion right now but tryna get more top end speed . I kno it’s a stunt truck but with low profile backflips I’m hitting 59 mph but looking for more u kno , but u think a 22 or 23 tooth will put a smile on my face 🤗 I wanna try that big pinion it’s just the thought of over heating my new Max 6 combo or over working my drivetrain what u think
Maybe upgrade your fans both both the ESC and the motor to keep’r cool. Playlist about this: DIY RC High powered fans ua-cam.com/play/PL9UjUE_DygV9w_KTuR7N0l-ygVhWPtNVw.html
James, LOL wish you would’ve posted this comment a few days after I dropped this video ha ha. You are spot on with your advice and I in fact have since learned that I was way overzealous With that choice of running a 20 T Pinion. In fact if you check out my video library you’ll find more recent videos talking about me having issues with many components on my vehicle due to the choice of Running the 20t gear. I started breaking pins in my rear differential, which prompted me to purchase custom steel from McMaster.com, I also started experiencing cogging issues. After some diving into the armma forums, And letting those guys know what I was running, I immediately got a message Letting you know that I should not be running a 20t pinion with the stock components. So yeah… I might’ve learned the hard way however I was able to create content to teach others how to avoid the same mistake. I did leave a updated message in the description of that video that basically leaves exactly what you just said, what I need to do though is figure out a way to get that message into the beginning of the video, basically just letting the users know. I have since dropped back to 16T and the issues have gone away. Appreciate your sage advice. Here is a link to the video where I admitted the error of my ways. One of these days though I would like to grab a lower KV motor, and perhaps an upgraded ESC. Link to that vid What is RC Cogging | Motor Advice ua-cam.com/video/ZaK_JLI9QNA/v-deo.html
I have kraton 6s v5 will the optional 15 tooth speed pinion be ok for bashing?? My 12 tooth pinion stripped so I'm changing to the 15 tooth and I'm worried about overheating?
Yes, youre fine. The 15t speed pinion is still for bashing. She will run hotter yes, but you shouldn’t run into any overheating issues. Unless you’re running oversize tires and you’re running in long grass for extended runs. Both those things contribute quite a bit to heat. That and where you live, if it’s 100+ degrees outside, you can have an increased chance of overheating. I always recommend picking up a heat gun, you can find good ones for pretty cheap and having one on hand as always good idea. I have videos in my library that will talk about heat temperatures and their thresholds. I also have a whole series on high powered fans. It’s not until people start overgearing past 15 T typically where they start running into heat issues.
@@EastTactics thanks for reply! I actually have an arrma heat sink and fan but it's not quite as powerful as yours and I just ordered a heat gun off of Amazon with the help of your links on the pinion gears video. I think I'm going to upgrade to a better heat sink and more powerful fan for motor and esc. Thanks a lot for the help 👊🏽👊🏽. And I also took a screenshot of the motor temps that you posted in the description you're a big help thanks
@@EastTactics one more thing. I have scorpion belted tires on the back and the stock d boot tires on the front of my v5. My question is will I have any problems with the differentials on this set up of tires? What are your thoughts because obviously the tires in the front are ballooning a lot while the ones in rear doesn't ballon at all
@@boomerak4774 You differentials really shouldn’t be put under any undue strain based on the fact that you’re running different tires in the front and rear. Unless they’re a size difference was dramatically different. Do you do it, simply because you like the look, ideally running all four of the same tires is recommended, but you should be fine. Have you seen my video i’m putting silicon earplugs in the center differential? Massively reduces ballooning, especially in the front. Something you might considerz
Would I get away with running the included 16 pinion on stock and using the car on grass, will that cause any overheating problems as it warns not to on the bag it comes with. Have the kraton 6s v4
Lexusant, I would suggest installing a heat sink and fan just to be safe and keep that engine cool. Outside temp, climate, the % of time on grass, all play a part. for 10-15 bucks it’s always worth it. Also I nabbed a heat gun so I can check temps. Esc is too hot past 130, motor is too hot past 150
EL Valenin, It is recommended that if you go with bigger tires you steer away from large pinion gears, in my opinion. I’m actually planning on dropping down from 20 back to 16 or 17 simply because I’m feeling like I’m going through too many broken rear Diff gears. And the increase in breakages seemed to happen after I upgraded to the 20 tooth. And I’m just running the stock tires. Larger tires puts more strain on the diffs. In my opinion the increase in speed is pretty negligible. I felt like my RC car was insane fast even with the 16 tooth pinion gear. Which is still an upgrade from the stock 15 to oth speed gear. Unless you’re building your RC car for speed runs and racing, I would suggest actually either sticking with the stock pinion gear or just increasing it to maybe 16 or 17. I’m a basher, care only for eating up the next biggest jump lol. Another thing to note, is that it is very important to keep a much lighter weight differential lubrication in the rear. When I experimented with using a higher differential weight, My Kraton didn’t like it, she snapped pins or planetary gears. Something like the stock 10 K in the rear is good or maybe 20 K. I currently run 20 K rear 200 K Center, 80 K front. But if after drop back to a smaller pinion gear, If I’m still finding that I break pins/gears in the back I might drop it to 10 K in the rear. I only have ever had issues breaking components in the rear differential. And I’m currently investigating on how to prevent it. But I would definitely say the combination of a high tooth pinion gear/ large tires/and to thick of diff fluid is a recipe for lots of rear differential breakages
EL Valenin, I would say you’re probably fine to keep it as is. However if all of a sudden you start breaking rear differential gears repeatedly then it’s likely due to the big tires. But 12 teeth is relatively small. I’m not sure if I asked but, what are you running? Are you also running The version 4 Kraton? I think it comes stock with 13t pinion gear. I wouldnt imagine ever needing to go below that.
Lol your right. I’ve since (a long time ago) dropped back to 16t, and punch setting 6. But do have goals to one day upgrade my motor and ESC to a setup that support 20+ tooth pinions. 😎💪💪
I think there might be more effective ways to slow it down. What vehicle are you running? Like for mine, I can run it on one 3s battery instead of 6s. Also… Some controllers come with a actual switch that allows you to Nerf the throttle.
@@EastTactics so i wanna buy a typhon but i dont want a mega...im using my granite blx as reference. Im running 2s, controller on 50% and punch 1. It s still fast on the street! Realizing when you re spinning on dirt the actual car doesn t travel as fast.
When it comes to your pinion size, small pinions seem to have a little bit of a quicker get up from the start line. Whereas large pinions will actually give you higher top end speed. However adjusting your pinion as far as speed overall goals, is fairly minimal, until you get to the top end speed of a vehicle.
I love my typhon. Here's some of the mods I've done. I put the 6s typhon shocks, 20t pinion, arrma outcast 4s wheelie bar, hot racing aluminum steering blocks, 15kg arrma 6s servo and for wheels and tires i got the duratrax six pack buggy wheels and I recently got some badland clones that are on ebay for only like 25$. Just search 1/8 big blocks buggy rc wheels. Great value and better than stock
My senton 3s came with a 20t on it, I put a 26t on it and now it cuts out after about 5 minutes of runtime and it's a flashing red light on the esc. What's the problem??
You might be throwing too much at the stock motor and ESC with a 26T gear. Issue will arise if you go too big. Im not 100% sure what the senton can handle as (as you know) I run the kraton. But what I can tell you is that when I tried the 20t gear, she gave me all kinds of problems. Broken pin, gear, and cogging issues. I've since dropped back to 16t and dropped my punch to 6, instead of nice. The stock ESC and motor like it much more. I you want to go crazy with higher gearing you'll want to buy an upgraded motor and ESC.
I think this answered my question I had. Now what spur does your senton have in it? I'm running stock in my brushed version but converted to brushless I wasn't sure what pinion to run. Mine ran great on 17t
@@EastTactics I literally just threw the stock pinion in it I figure with the gearing in the spur with it still all original I may get close to optimal with stock pinion. Going to test it right now.
@@EastTactics went ok. Tops out fast. I got a 5200 50c 2s gonna grab a 3s in 2 days. Also how do you love the kraton thought about picking one up but was stuck on a 3s truck or a 4s...
It comes stock with 13, they offer a high speed gear I believe that’s 15. Technically Arrma feels comfortable allowing a 15 tooth pinion gear without the need of a fan for your motor. So anything past that, I would recommend putting a fan on your motor. I run 16t... Without a fan, my motor will overheat when running in grass. Running in grass is a major contributor to heat.
Yeah, I was more referring to my V4 Kraton. The motor does not come with a fan stock for this. But if you’ve already got a fan on your motor then you could probably get away with increasing your pinion a bit. However I would pick up a temp gun to monitor your vehicle. They’re pretty inexpensive. amzn.to/2VLdy61
@@EastTactics thank you. I wound up going with the spektrum kit, the 160a ESC and the 1250. Had a hard time figuring out how to mount it but I think I got it. I just ordered a 17,19 and 20 off your link for the Robinson pinions. Thank you again East
Not sure, however I will say that any modification as far as upping your pinion teeth above the manufactures offering, I would say always requires a fan to be put on your motor. To be completely honest with you even if I never change the pinion gear to higher teeth I would always recommend putting a fan on your motor. It’s just better for your vehicle, keeps your motor cool.
GOING to ask THE hobby shop guy i deal to put a 15th tooth pinion in for me well he is waiting for THE part that melted between input GEARS And diffs GEARS
If you’re cooling your system beyond what the manufacturer put in the vehicle, then at least in the heat category you can attempt to increase your pinion. Just always make sure you’ve got a temperature gun on standby to see if your fans are doing enough to keep it cool. That said, another another thing to keep in mind is that the higher that you go with your opinion the more power you’re throwing at your drivetrain. Sure you’ll go faster, but will it be worth the increase likelihood of, Breaking differentials, shearing or wearing down the teeth of your input and ring gears etc. Also increasing your pinion, To high can often times lead to cogging issues. Which is basically a miscommunication between your motor and your ESC due to improper gear ratios
@@EastTactics True i think i Will stick WITH the 13th tooth pinion for Now until i ask him what he thinks first or i think i get STEEL GEARS first and shims
Guess it depends on what dictionary you use. Definition of Upping by the free Dictionary v. upped, up·ping, ups v.tr. 1. To increase: upped their fees; upping our output. 2. To raise to a higher level, especially to promote to a higher position. 3. Nautical To raise: up anchor; up sail.
I can’t fault ya there, It peeves me too, now days. Honestly... now that you mention it I think I might go in and edit the word out. Thx for the reminder.
Done! If you now were to go back and watch that video in the exact moments where the word engine is said it’s been replaced with the wonderful sound of silence 😝. Yeah, I believe that was among one of my very first videos LOL. Still... there’s no excuse.
I’m sorry, my family is in the sand Amd gravel business where there is lots of both, I can remember a very very long time ago my dad correcting me like it was yesterday, him saying a engine works by way of combustion, motor runs on electric, lol! Those little things that I miss so so much!!! I’m trying to locate tracks for my 8s kraton, I’ve got a castle esc and motor in it so I can control the powers accordingly and I’d love to have tracks for it, I’m gonna change the bell crank and give it a bigger servo for the steering just in case I come across something! I’d appreciate any help! Thank you!!
@@rrocket1117 This a a great video to watch when it comes to Arrma Servos, and the servo savor, I'm not sure if the same issues found in the 6s V4/V5/EXB were passed upward to the 8s line. But if your experiencing pore steering then it very well could be you servo savor. The 8s might have a larger servo savor, so the snap ring tactic (or simply adding in regular washers, if you can get'r apart) might require larger snap rings/washer. Another thing to keep in mind if you are going in and doing work on your steering rack to to change the metal bushings to rubber sealed bearings. Again... im referencing issues with the 6s line. but it likely there are bushings in the 8s kraton too. not sure. lastly its always good to set your steering endpoint on your servo (search my vids on that) if you haven't done that yet. And to make sure you're hub nuts/pillow balls are not overly tight. Im sure your ESC is pushing the max voltage to your servo as they should come default at pushing 7.4 volts. However... its not unheard of that the inter BEC setting for some ESC came incorrectly set from factory to being to low. Research your ESC's manual and find out if there even is an option for you to adjust the BEC output voltage... some have the option... some dont. but that another thing to be aware of. Lastly, getting a better Quality servo, and a nice horn that minimizes slop can go along way. I forget if the stock 8s kraton comes standard with an aluminum servo mount... but if not.. get one of those. this eliminates any side to side movement that your servo might be experiencing from a loose, or composite servo mount. Hope all those tip help!
Ive gone from stock to 14 tooth tekno. I find 14 is a sweet spot esp for bashing as i dont need my K6 to go 65mph on a jump track lol 14 seems to have much more poke and goes faster at top end without any overheating issues which can occur with larger pinions.A sort of a balance i found was needed so as to not sacrifice instant (ramp) accelaration for too much top end which i will only really use on speed runs. Just think about where and how you want to drive before changing pinions guys - great vid as always East
We're lucky to have these videos. Thanks East tactics you have probably saved us all alot of money
Exactly what I was looking for thank you brother the mod number and pitch number perfect
Hi, just ordered my Kraton EXB at amazon an planning a Max6 1650kv Combo. You were the first source I found the info that I need a MOD 1 Pinion. Helped me a lot, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! Very much aprechiated :-)
That’s awesome! Two things …most of the videos that I’ve created will work just fine for the EXB. However the differentials are a bit different so if I don’t drop a video by the time you get to your differentials then there’s other great videos on them. However I recently picked up the EXB myself and plan on doing a series of videos on it as well. So stay tuned to my channel and we’ll go on the journey together
@@EastTactics Now that would be cool! Its my first 1/8th, so everything new for me. I've read that it would be good to shim the diffs to make them stiffer / more durable. Especially when adding lots of power. :-) What ESC / Motor will you put into your EXB?
@@michaelfeuz1004 Im tossing in a firma 160 8s ESC, and the hobby 1730 motor, she's gunna RIP!!
Thank you this vid helped a lot. Getting my kraton 6s tomorrow
Awesome... Blast it!!
kick ass vid about pinion gear setup, lots of ppl have no idea what they are doing when it comes to gearing.
Yes..you can hear the difference. Nice video.
Thanks! Glad you liked💪😎
Thanks for the video, made me understand the impact of the gears on top speed, accel and motor strain. I'll probably never go higher than the extra delivered one with 15 teeth, since I value better accel and motor health higher than top speed
Definitely Smart
My arrma senton mega 4x4 brushed came with a stock 17t pinion gear I upgraded to the 22t pinion. Made it hot. Burnt through the motor quick. I recently took out the brushed and converted to a 3660 3300kv and 60a esc I have a 26t in there. Would be open to recommendations for a good pinion for that. I am running stock spur in there. I currently have 2s lipo on it but gonna grab a 3s for fun. Also my motor is a 4t motor if that helps.
thank u so much for giving us complete knowledge about these pinion gears in our rc and much appreciated i'm using scx10trans and not enough speed that i'm expected since i get the 12t and 8module
good vid dude
Hey loved the video and thanks to you I finally understand more 😂 but I ordered a pinion 20t for now does it fit with a 50t hot racin spur or should I leave the stock spur ? What do u think it’s for a kraton 6s blx
KRYPTONITE LEGACY So long as the detailed instructions Or description outlined in your purchase of the hot racing Spur gear match the pitch or mod ratio On your pinion you should be good. But you need to confirm that they’re the same. Otherwise if you’re not sure you might consider sticking with the stock spur gear.
That all said you do need to be really careful with increasing your pinion gear when still running the stock ESC and motor. Especially if you’ve already increased the spur gear. Unfortunately the stock ESC and the motor are not really compatible with pushing the limits of your opinion and spur very high. I myself started experiencing A lot of rear end breakages in my differential as well as cogging issues. I have since dropped my pinion back down to the 16t.
I was running a 20t when the majority of my issues started happening. So you might be OK at 18 but just be warned.
Also it is absolutely important that you massively increase the cooling on your motor. You don’t want your motor running any hotter than 150 to 160°. An 18 tooth pinion gear as well as a modified spur gear are definitely going to put you in the hot range. I dropped a few videos recently outlining NTF fans, they are killer! But a little bit pricey. So you might consider picking up the duel yeah racing fans. You can find details in the description on my master list for that product. As far as details about NTF just check out my most recent videos. Also if you’re not 100% sure what cogging is I have a video on that in my library.
Bash on broski!
Ciao, volevo sapere se con il pignone 15t ho bisogno del dissipatore di calore sul motore e sulla Esc. Grazie
Thanks for the tip!
MISTA anytime my friend!
With a Ada 120 SERVO
Thanks for the help with learning the differences. What type of mat are you using? I couldn’t find it to purchase on your list. Thanks again
It’s actually a yoga mat, here’s a video that outlines everything. And you’ll find it in the Arrma Kraton V4 parts list, just keep scrolling down until you come across it
ua-cam.com/video/jurXWNzWq0g/v-deo.html
The kraton would be brilliant, but I'm already going over my budget with the blx since I have to buy the charger and battery. This hobby seems like it is going to cause me to look for a 2nd ft job...
What stand are you using to pick it up that high with the wheels on. My kraton and nero tires will still touch the surface with my DuraTrax stand. Already know my 8s Kraton won't work with it at all. Great video!!
Also for the 20T did you have to rotate the motor any? Think I'm running a 16 or 17 teeth right now and planning on going to a 20t after watching this video and a 23 or 24 for my 8s Kraton.
Hey Calvin, Great question. Mine is also the Dura tracks however I think it’s an older version that has a longer post. When I bought mine I specifically looked for this model. Check out this video at around the two minute mark, I show an image of the exact model I picked up off of eBay. Again I believe it’s actually a longer post then normal.
ua-cam.com/video/gov56EolTK0/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics Thanks, yes I had the 1/8, 1/10 car scaled version. Thanks!
You can change the spur gear and get the same results smallest spur
I got a blx185 6s 20 tooth pinion on a Revo 3.3 I won't know if it gets hot until summer time trying to figure out the right
I’m using the Powerhobby Aluminum Heat Sink W Dual Cooling Fan 1/8 Motor. No modifications needed strong fans. Part# PH1289. On eBay under 25$
I'm interested in your motor cooling fan. The link in the description is not the same as the fan you're using! Could you please share a link to the fan you're using? Thanks!!!
I wouldn't recommend the fan im using, its sort of cheap (broke on me) and its a pain to install. The yea racing duel fans are a better option... that said... if cooling is an important issue for where you live and bash. Check out my lates Vids showcasing NTF Fans... they are the cream of the crop. pricey, but well worth it! thanks for watching my vids.
I apologize it took so long to respond to ya... sometimes comments dont seem to fall in my regular thread so I have to hit up the youtube studio and catch them. Bash on my friend!!
@@EastTactics Thanks for the reply. I'm also having the same issues on my channel and find myself going to Youtubue studio almost daily to check for comments that did not notify me. Thanks again, still looking for the perfect fan... it's getting really hot here in S.C.!!!
Stated in the video, "48P" is "Diametral Pitch." Re-labeling it Mod-1 is to keep people from ever understanding what diametral pitch even is. It is the intentional dumbing down of society. You can go from 3D printable gear pitch which is 25DP up to 48DP for steel cast gears to 96DP which are tiny teeth, and higher. Hope this helps.
Thx
Thanks for this video man just got myself a 18t pinion gear and had you had any chance to bash around with the bigger pinion gears? Got my kraton 6s on my channel brotha would like your input thank again
Awesome... be carful though, I learned the hard way, after going that high with an 18 and 20 tooth pinion gear, I started breaking rear diff pins and planetary gears. Turns out... the stock motor and stock ESC are not very compatible with that high a pinion. you might experience Cogging too. which is an annoying hesitation and clicking when hitting the throttle hard from the line.
You might be fine tho... I think I started really only experiencing the issues i mentioned above when I tossed in a 20t pinion. Bash on brother!!!
@@EastTactics thanks for the info brother I actually had a cogging issue with the 18t pinion punch level 7 so I decided to put a 15t on punch level 9 and it's way more torque down low and does wheels doing 40+ lol
Btw how did u fix the cogging with the bigger pinion gears ?
Hey man! Thanks for the helpful video, I just uprgraded to a castle 1520 1650kv motor and a mamba 8s esc. Just to confirm, should I go with a 20 tooth pinion? And what size spur gear? My exb is stock right now.
I’ll probably go w/ a 22 or 23t pinion.
Stock spur gear is fine.
Ohh dang! alright gotcha your awesome man thanks for the reply 👍
One more question lol what's your opinion on the diffs? I've heard they can be a bit weak with too much power?
Thanks for the vide!!! Let me ask you a question since I having a hard time installing the front #M2CRacing front chassis brace in my v3 KRATON?Got the rear in no problem, but having some issues with the front brace! What do you need to take a part in order to get a driver or a pair of pilers to hold the nut while you screw in the top screw?
If i recall correctly when installing both my chassis braces, I used the small tool the arrma provided topside. Set the vehicle on its side and used the hex drive from underneath. I forget if I had to remove the center diff to get at it... I know its a nightmare removing that center diff in the V3.
Sorry it took me a week to respond. I some how missed your question.
I assume you've since figured it out. Bash on brother!
@@EastTactics all good, got both of them installed on my #v3 #KRATON & in my Notorious as well as Mitch's Shock Tower braces that work awesome. Free to stay connected with me on my page: facebook.com/Uplift-RC-2377703022267746/
I recently got a kraton 8s any recommendations on a new servo and a pinion gear I’m new to the rc world plus motor and esc
Congrats on getting the new 8s Kraton, is there a reason why you’re looking to replace all of the stock components? Are you not happy with the current performance of the stock motor and ESC? Or the stock servo? Or is it more of a… Money is not an issue thing and you just want to upgrade it to the best of the best?
I would say, since you’re new to the hobby enjoy the stock components get used to the vehicle and if you want to upgrade something simple just upgrade the pinion. Maybe go 21T or 22T. However if you do make sure you pick up a temp gun so you can make sure your temperatures on your motor and ESC are good.Also whenever you’re messing round with your pinion gear you’re asking more of your motor so it’s recommended to always put a fan on your motor.
Now… With that said if you were just simply looking to upgrade all of the stock electronics to higher end stuff I would probably check out Rich Duper bashes videos. Just simply type in Arrma Kraton 8s. I believe I recently watched a video of his where he is running an 800kv motor, with limitless 36/36 gearing. I’ve seen other people with 39/39 gearing, but those types of set ups require upgrading the motor to much lower KV.
I’m not as familiar with the 8S line, as my specialty is with the 6s. However another thing you might consider looking into is increasing the thickness of your center differential. I believe it comes stock at 1 million. Some people like up in that 20 million. If you’re not already familiar with the Arrma forums, check that out there are a ton of great set up Recommendations and good people to bounce ideas off of there. Highly recommend it
I'm building a Arrma limitless so far I have a kill mode tp 2900kv w/cap pack, xlx extreme, savox 7.4 sc-1268sg-be. Haven't started cause haven't decided on gearing. My question is I want to drift & bash on track with friends and still get a decent speed run when time is right, with out producing to much heat, what's you suggestion on gearing to accomplish such balance?
Thank you
I’m not very well-versed in gearing up the Arma limitless. However what I can suggest you do is take a stroll over to the Arrma forum if you’re not already a member. I’m telling you there’s a ton of guys there that Are always willing to help. And I’m sure there’s a large group of limitless Masters
www.arrmaforum.com
You kept calling the motor and engine lol. I know its just habit but just wanted to point it out. Great video. I also recommend if you ever wanna change the stock wheels grab some of the backflip lps that come on the 4s outcast. They work great
lol... I cringe when I re watch this video, I hate that I called it an engine so many time. I kicked that habit quick (as this is umung my older vids) Your right about the 4s backflip. In fact I recall one time hitting up Rich duper bash with what his favorite tires were, and I believe he told me it loved the 4s backflips too. thanks for commenting, and not busting my balls too much on the Engine thing. lol others haven't been so nice. :)
@@EastTactics Haha I could tell you were just starting to get into the hobby/youtube videos but you knew your stuff and were trying to help others which I appreciate! I've been in the hobby for only like 5 or 6 years so im even still learning things or breaking bad habits lol. Yup funny you say about Rich as we put them on our kratons at the same time lol. They are nice and light and don't ballon too crazy and hook up really nice. Plus they are cheaper then prolines. But yeah i completely understand about the engine/motor thing lol. Subbed! Ill stay tuned in. 👍🍻
Thanks my friend! 👍🍻
Did you fix the pinion gear bolts with Loctite 270? What is the Loctite number for fixing the motor mount?
Yes, I use, loctite 209741 Heavy Duty Threadlocker, it’s 270.
I also use it for the motor pinion, and for attaching the out drive to the front and rear spiral input gears. I also use the red Loctite for the motor mount when attaching it to the chassis up from the bottom.
Note, removal recommends heat, to break/loosen the bond. I use a smal lighter size butane torch.
I use blue 242 Loctite however when securing the motor from the top while setting the mesh.
Also note, that I have taken a Dremel to the two screws that attach/secure the motor (while setting the mesh) to the screws so that I now actually use a flat head screwdriver to tighten and remove those. See this video
ua-cam.com/video/NAOAFfMpXIk/v-deo.html
@@EastTactics thnx alot lol
Do you run your truck on 3s ever even though it’s 6s I got lots of 3s batteries I’m thinking if I can use 3s I can get lots of run time just worried I’ll mess up the motor or esc
I do run it on 3S, picked up the parallel adapter so I can plug both of them at the same time. 3s power for double the time. Can’t beat that.
I haven’t done it a ton though, and it runs just fine on 3s power. I haven’t heard anything regarding it potentially being bad for the engine or bad for the ESC.
East Tactics you mean the jumper plug to just run one 3s battery I need to make one and try it out what batteries you using btw
J Movision, no, what I mean is there is an adapter that allows you to plug in two 3S batteries into the system. You use the stock plug on one terminal that came with the car. And then you plug in a Y adapter to the other one. You then Plug two 3S batteries into the Y adapter and the car runs on 2 3S batteries power for double the time.
Here’s a video that shows my batteries and charger
ua-cam.com/video/LLp4Ld88xcI/v-deo.html
I agree with most except for when you do gear up excessive I do notice the loss of acceleration.
Ya… I agree
Also: where did you get that RC car stand?
EL Valenin, I found it on eBay, had to pay close attention though, because you want to make sure you buy the one that’s got the taller metal pole. Also the blue stand has two indentations/pockets in it
I have a kraton 6s v5 and i will replace the stock motor pinion With a 20t. It will be fine? I use it With 6s 5k lipo
So I’ve learned from experience after the creation of this video that you do not want to run a 20t pinion on stock electronics. While it will work, and the video here gives an accurate depiction of the speed increase. I found that I started breaking rear differential pins left and right. I started cogging. And unless you are running high powered cooling you definitely don’t want to run it because you’ll get too hot.
Watch this video for a more recent overview of what you might consider doing and thinking about it
ua-cam.com/video/s4-RjtQsMsU/v-deo.html
With stock electronics, you really shouldn’t go past 16 T and if you get up to 16 teeth you really should be increasing your cooling over both your ESC and your motor
If you want to start running 20 then you need to pick up a motor and ESC upgrade
I run 19t
can you do a speed test?
I haven't purchased any tech to assist me in doing speed tests. I should though. Never really been to interested myself in speed run. Im all basher. That said tho... it would be cool to get one, and put more attention toward speed. thx for the suggestion.
Do I have to buy a different motor if the pinion gear hole is to small to fit
I’ve seen people drill them out, but honestly why would you buy a new motor when you can simply just pick up a different pinion gear with the right hole size?
Hey, what would you recommend with a Hobbywing Max8 2200kv combo? Thanks :)
What motor and pinion gear did it come with stock?
@@EastTactics a 12T :)
Oh OK so you’re talking the Kraton 6s, like mine.
That set up could handle anywhere from 12 to 23 teeth. The gamble you make when going up as high as 20+ is the increase torque thrown out your differential, particularly your rear.
Might be a bit more likely to bust gears/pins etc. However your motor/ESC combo can certainly handle it. 💪💪
@@EastTactics Thanks for the advice man! Turns out the EXB is way cheaper in the UK than the V5 with mods 👍👌
You always can bore the pinion gear out to fit the motor rod with a drill and a drill bit I did it with my pinion gear
Nice! That’s definitely one way to save yourself the trouble of re-ordering. Well played
Or destroy your pinion if you mess it up, now you must buy more anyway.
Is 48t spur /18t pinion good for bashing in kraton 6s??
You can test it out, you're kraton might be fine, but he's what you need to know.
It comes stock with the 50t spur, did you, or are you planing to drop that to a 48T pinion as part of your strategy for running the 18T?
Also... as you are likely aware the Kraton comes stock with a 15T high speed pinion.
I'll assume that the 48T spur gear is not that much different then the 50T.
this is what I can tell ya. Anything past 16t for your pinion, you're going to want to add a cooling fan for your motor. So keep that in mind.
Now regarding 18t, thats definitely pushing the stock motor and ESC.
I made a rookie mistake when I first started out in RC and tossed on that 20T pinion. It was a mistake, I started breaking planetary gears and pins in my rear differential right and left. I also started Cogging, which is an annoying stutter off the line due to a miscommunication between your senseless motor and your Esc. Happens because the stock motor and ESC do not like it when you start getting to high up there with your Pinion.
Now granted I jumped all the way to 20T and was having those issues. So you might be fine going with 18T, especially if you drop the spur gear down 2T.
but keep in mind your asking alot more of your drive train when you increase your pinion gear too much, and breakages are more common. Particularly in the rear end. Getting hardened steal diff pins from Mcmaster.com can help, as it adds a lot of strength to those pins. See this Vid for more info on that.
ua-cam.com/video/cnT25bXYH3k/v-deo.html
Also make sure your diffs are shimmed correctly both inside and out.
ua-cam.com/video/gxY_QNpz2m8/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/03Jcis3yJDo/v-deo.html
Typically when people want to really increase that pinion gear to 20+ they are doing it because they have picked a higher torque motor, that can handle the upgrade. 20+ teeth begs the need for a motor pushing 1600 -1800kv, and a better ESC to handle that motor. Speed is recouped from those lower KV motors by increasing that pinion gear to 20, 21,22, 23, etc.
But stock motor and ESC cant handle that... happily, and without cogging and lots of diff gear breakages.
If you have any other questions let me know.
I have a 36 tooth 5mm pinion gear
😯
Have you tired running your v4 KRATON with a RR 20T pinion on 6s yet?
Ya... dropped back to a 16t. 20T was killing my drive train, braking rear diff pin and planetary gears. Also cogging issues.
20t was too much for stock motor and stock ESC. I’m Much happier at 16t. 😎👍👊
I have, unfortunately I was doing it with the stock motor and ESC. Which ended up providing a cogging issue and also increased my breakages in the rear differential. So until I get a better motor and ESC I won’t be running A 20T pinion. I run a 16 to Pinyon on punch setting six. And while it’s not quite as insane. It’s still I’ll beast
You will have heat issues my kraton hit thermal protection with the 15 and 16 tooth so i got a 1730 long can hobbystar pair with a max 6 esc and a 19 tooth stupid power
You make a good point. That setup sounds legit! ... I’ve had no issues with heat as of yet, with my heat sink and fan.
@@EastTactics I've heard the hobbywing fan is the best for the arrma 6s line ill buy one and go back to stock to do some test wish I'd tried the fan first
@@rc4life315 are you running it 8s on the max 6 or just keeping it at 6s?
What pinion gear would u recommend for max6 1650 combo on the 50 tooth spur
I’m assuming your running the Arrma 6s Kraton, if so, with that low of KV motor I’d recommend a 22 or 23 tooth if you were running a stock spur (46T). However, you’ve changed yours to a 50t. What was your motivation for increasing your spur to 50?
Correct me if I’m wrong… but going bigger on the spur increases torque and reduces top end speed
What is your overall motivation? You building a speed runner? Or is off the line speed and low torque your goal in mind?
A note to remember
The closer the pinion & spur are in tooth count, the higher the speed.
The further away they get in tooth count, the higher the torque output. So if you wanted to get more torque and less top speed out of our rig, you could either up the spur gear higher or lower your pinion gear down.
If you wanted to get more speed for this truck, you could either 1) increase the pinion gear's tooth count or 2) lower the spur gear's tooth count. Both of these options will decrease the low end power of the truck while simultaneously increasing the overall top speed.
If I had the 50t spur, and didn’t feel like changing it, I’d run perhaps a 23-25t pinion gear. 😎👍
As long as you are paying attention to the temperatures of your motor and speed control, there isn't a wrong gearing. Play around and find what works for you.
Temperature Thresholds
Motor
Ideal - 140° 60° C
Hot - 150 - 160° 65.5° - 71.1° C
Overheat - 165° 74°C
ESC
Ideal - 135° 57.2° C
Hot - 140 - 150° 60° - 65.5° C
Overheat - 155° 68.3°C
I have an outcast 6s v2 it came stock 50 tooth spur running a 18 tooth pinion right now but tryna get more top end speed . I kno it’s a stunt truck but with low profile backflips I’m hitting 59 mph but looking for more u kno , but u think a 22 or 23 tooth will put a smile on my face 🤗 I wanna try that big pinion it’s just the thought of over heating my new Max 6 combo or over working my drivetrain what u think
Maybe upgrade your fans both both the ESC and the motor to keep’r cool.
Playlist about this:
DIY RC High powered fans ua-cam.com/play/PL9UjUE_DygV9w_KTuR7N0l-ygVhWPtNVw.html
@@EastTactics Thanks appreciate the info which fans should i be looking at
The Alli express ones are the best IMO. See links in all those vids. 😎
Where is that mat from your using ???
Amazon 😎👍
amzn.to/39di5VQ
All I can tell you is watch your motor Temperature with that stock motor and a high gears you should be running lower kv motor with that 20 tooth
James, LOL wish you would’ve posted this comment a few days after I dropped this video ha ha.
You are spot on with your advice and I in fact have since learned that I was way overzealous With that choice of running a 20 T Pinion.
In fact if you check out my video library you’ll find more recent videos talking about me having issues with many components on my vehicle due to the choice of Running the 20t gear. I started breaking pins in my rear differential, which prompted me to purchase custom steel from McMaster.com, I also started experiencing cogging issues. After some diving into the armma forums, And letting those guys know what I was running, I immediately got a message Letting you know that I should not be running a 20t pinion with the stock components.
So yeah… I might’ve learned the hard way however I was able to create content to teach others how to avoid the same mistake. I did leave a updated message in the description of that video that basically leaves exactly what you just said, what I need to do though is figure out a way to get that message into the beginning of the video, basically just letting the users know.
I have since dropped back to 16T and the issues have gone away. Appreciate your sage advice.
Here is a link to the video where I admitted the error of my ways. One of these days though I would like to grab a lower KV motor, and perhaps an upgraded ESC.
Link to that vid
What is RC Cogging | Motor Advice ua-cam.com/video/ZaK_JLI9QNA/v-deo.html
Every one that’s in the rc hobby has has hit that bumpy road a time or two I have and probably will again it’s just part of it
At 2:22 you said its gotta be Mod1 or 32 pitch, 32 pitch won't work with mod1 gearing fyi, 32 pitch however will work with 0.8 mod gears.
Justin C. Thx for clarifying. I’ll go in and edit the video to take out that 32 pitch point
@@EastTactics love your videos btw, good to see people creating content on the arrmas, great trucks!
So is the kraton center gear mod 1 or 48p?
Mod 1
I have kraton 6s v5 will the optional 15 tooth speed pinion be ok for bashing?? My 12 tooth pinion stripped so I'm changing to the 15 tooth and I'm worried about overheating?
Yes, youre fine. The 15t speed pinion is still for bashing.
She will run hotter yes, but you shouldn’t run into any overheating issues.
Unless you’re running oversize tires and you’re running in long grass for extended runs. Both those things contribute quite a bit to heat. That and where you live, if it’s 100+ degrees outside, you can have an increased chance of overheating.
I always recommend picking up a heat gun, you can find good ones for pretty cheap and having one on hand as always good idea.
I have videos in my library that will talk about heat temperatures and their thresholds.
I also have a whole series on high powered fans.
It’s not until people start overgearing past 15 T typically where they start running into heat issues.
@@EastTactics thanks for reply! I actually have an arrma heat sink and fan but it's not quite as powerful as yours and I just ordered a heat gun off of Amazon with the help of your links on the pinion gears video. I think I'm going to upgrade to a better heat sink and more powerful fan for motor and esc. Thanks a lot for the help 👊🏽👊🏽. And I also took a screenshot of the motor temps that you posted in the description you're a big help thanks
Any time
@@EastTactics one more thing. I have scorpion belted tires on the back and the stock d boot tires on the front of my v5. My question is will I have any problems with the differentials on this set up of tires? What are your thoughts because obviously the tires in the front are ballooning a lot while the ones in rear doesn't ballon at all
@@boomerak4774
You differentials really shouldn’t be put under any undue strain based on the fact that you’re running different tires in the front and rear. Unless they’re a size difference was dramatically different.
Do you do it, simply because you like the look, ideally running all four of the same tires is recommended, but you should be fine.
Have you seen my video i’m putting silicon earplugs in the center differential? Massively reduces ballooning, especially in the front.
Something you might considerz
Would I get away with running the included 16 pinion on stock and using the car on grass, will that cause any overheating problems as it warns not to on the bag it comes with. Have the kraton 6s v4
Lexusant, I would suggest installing a heat sink and fan just to be safe and keep that engine cool. Outside temp, climate, the % of time on grass, all play a part. for 10-15 bucks it’s always worth it. Also I nabbed a heat gun so I can check temps. Esc is too hot past 130, motor is too hot past 150
@@EastTactics Thanks mate, really good to know. Excellent video btw really informative.. Subd
Lexusant, awesome!! Thx
I updated the description in this vid for quick links to both heatsink fan and the infrared thermostat gun for ya.
@@EastTactics awesome will check it now. Thanks
Do I need to gear down if I use bigger and heavier tires?
EL Valenin, It is recommended that if you go with bigger tires you steer away from large pinion gears, in my opinion. I’m actually planning on dropping down from 20 back to 16 or 17 simply because I’m feeling like I’m going through too many broken rear Diff gears. And the increase in breakages seemed to happen after I upgraded to the 20 tooth. And I’m just running the stock tires. Larger tires puts more strain on the diffs. In my opinion the increase in speed is pretty negligible. I felt like my RC car was insane fast even with the 16 tooth pinion gear. Which is still an upgrade from the stock 15 to oth speed gear.
Unless you’re building your RC car for speed runs and racing, I would suggest actually either sticking with the stock pinion gear or just increasing it to maybe 16 or 17. I’m a basher, care only for eating up the next biggest jump lol.
Another thing to note, is that it is very important to keep a much lighter weight differential lubrication in the rear. When I experimented with using a higher differential weight, My Kraton didn’t like it, she snapped pins or planetary gears.
Something like the stock 10 K in the rear is good or maybe 20 K.
I currently run 20 K rear 200 K Center, 80 K front.
But if after drop back to a smaller pinion gear, If I’m still finding that I break pins/gears in the back I might drop it to 10 K in the rear. I only have ever had issues breaking components in the rear differential. And I’m currently investigating on how to prevent it. But I would definitely say the combination of a high tooth pinion gear/ large tires/and to thick of diff fluid is a recipe for lots of rear differential breakages
@@EastTactics I am afraid of damaging my electronics, should I gear down from stock 12T to 11T?
EL Valenin, I would say you’re probably fine to keep it as is. However if all of a sudden you start breaking rear differential gears repeatedly then it’s likely due to the big tires. But 12 teeth is relatively small. I’m not sure if I asked but, what are you running? Are you also running The version 4 Kraton? I think it comes stock with 13t pinion gear. I wouldnt imagine ever needing to go below that.
@@EastTactics I am running V3 Kraton. Stock with 12T pinion.
20T is a great way to fry the stock motor in no time flat. It will be a lot of fun for the 5 mins before that happens though. :D
Lol your right. I’ve since (a long time ago) dropped back to 16t, and punch setting 6.
But do have goals to one day upgrade my motor and ESC to a setup that support 20+ tooth pinions. 😎💪💪
Would you say using pinion size as a tool to slow a car down for my kids?
I think there might be more effective ways to slow it down. What vehicle are you running? Like for mine, I can run it on one 3s battery instead of 6s.
Also… Some controllers come with a actual switch that allows you to Nerf the throttle.
@@EastTactics so i wanna buy a typhon but i dont want a mega...im using my granite blx as reference. Im running 2s, controller on 50% and punch 1. It s still fast on the street! Realizing when you re spinning on dirt the actual car doesn t travel as fast.
When it comes to your pinion size, small pinions seem to have a little bit of a quicker get up from the start line. Whereas large pinions will actually give you higher top end speed. However adjusting your pinion as far as speed overall goals, is fairly minimal, until you get to the top end speed of a vehicle.
@@EastTactics ya, kinda what i figured. Maybe they will just grow into the blx typhon. How about swaaping just the motor?
I’m sure that could work, you would just have to find a smaller motor that’s compatible with your setup.
i’m new to the hobby and i just bought a typhon 3s blx and wondering what kind of modifications i should do. any ideas?
What do you favor, racing or bashing?
I love my typhon. Here's some of the mods I've done. I put the 6s typhon shocks, 20t pinion, arrma outcast 4s wheelie bar, hot racing aluminum steering blocks, 15kg arrma 6s servo and for wheels and tires i got the duratrax six pack buggy wheels and I recently got some badland clones that are on ebay for only like 25$. Just search 1/8 big blocks buggy rc wheels. Great value and better than stock
@@EastTactics racing. but i’ll do some bashing here and there. but mostly want high speed
My senton 3s came with a 20t on it, I put a 26t on it and now it cuts out after about 5 minutes of runtime and it's a flashing red light on the esc. What's the problem??
You might be throwing too much at the stock motor and ESC with a 26T gear. Issue will arise if you go too big. Im not 100% sure what the senton can handle as (as you know) I run the kraton. But what I can tell you is that when I tried the 20t gear, she gave me all kinds of problems. Broken pin, gear, and cogging issues. I've since dropped back to 16t and dropped my punch to 6, instead of nice. The stock ESC and motor like it much more.
I you want to go crazy with higher gearing you'll want to buy an upgraded motor and ESC.
I think this answered my question I had. Now what spur does your senton have in it? I'm running stock in my brushed version but converted to brushless I wasn't sure what pinion to run. Mine ran great on 17t
I’m running 16T have been pretty happy with it
@@EastTactics I literally just threw the stock pinion in it I figure with the gearing in the spur with it still all original I may get close to optimal with stock pinion. Going to test it right now.
@@EastTactics went ok. Tops out fast. I got a 5200 50c 2s gonna grab a 3s in 2 days. Also how do you love the kraton thought about picking one up but was stuck on a 3s truck or a 4s...
I have 33t
Speed runner … correct. What’s rig u running?
I have a 13th tooth pinion in there now or put a 16 Tooth pinion will it be safe in rguards to overheating?
It comes stock with 13, they offer a high speed gear I believe that’s 15. Technically Arrma feels comfortable allowing a 15 tooth pinion gear without the need of a fan for your motor.
So anything past that, I would recommend putting a fan on your motor.
I run 16t... Without a fan, my motor will overheat when running in grass.
Running in grass is a major contributor to heat.
@@EastTactics they is Already a fan on the top of my motor
Yeah, I was more referring to my V4 Kraton. The motor does not come with a fan stock for this. But if you’ve already got a fan on your motor then you could probably get away with increasing your pinion a bit. However I would pick up a temp gun to monitor your vehicle. They’re pretty inexpensive.
amzn.to/2VLdy61
@@EastTactics Thank you East Tactics
@@EastTactics like how much would u say in Canadians Dollars?
Test like that u should of dun a speed test wit a gps!!
Agreed, that would have been better.👍
How many teeth u have on the spur gear? Spur gear also makes a difference
Stock 43
No longer run a 20 tooth pinion! Way too much for stock components.
@@EastTactics ok
How about the 20 on a 1250 6s?
Should be fine. It’s the 2050 that’s the issue. You’d be fine running 20t on a 1730kv motor. But you’d want better then a blx185 ESC.
@@EastTactics thank you. I wound up going with the spektrum kit, the 160a ESC and the 1250. Had a hard time figuring out how to mount it but I think I got it. I just ordered a 17,19 and 20 off your link for the Robinson pinions. Thank you again East
Will a 20 Tooth pinion be safe in a 4s kraton i mean in other words overheat its a 110 kraton with a 2400kv Motor
Not sure, however I will say that any modification as far as upping your pinion teeth above the manufactures offering, I would say always requires a fan to be put on your motor. To be completely honest with you even if I never change the pinion gear to higher teeth I would always recommend putting a fan on your motor. It’s just better for your vehicle, keeps your motor cool.
I have 2 fans 1 on top of motor and 2 1 beside the SERVO
GOING to ask THE hobby shop guy i deal to put a 15th tooth pinion in for me well he is waiting for THE part that melted between input GEARS And diffs GEARS
If you’re cooling your system beyond what the manufacturer put in the vehicle, then at least in the heat category you can attempt to increase your pinion. Just always make sure you’ve got a temperature gun on standby to see if your fans are doing enough to keep it cool.
That said, another another thing to keep in mind is that the higher that you go with your opinion the more power you’re throwing at your drivetrain. Sure you’ll go faster, but will it be worth the increase likelihood of, Breaking differentials, shearing or wearing down the teeth of your input and ring gears etc.
Also increasing your pinion, To high can often times lead to cogging issues. Which is basically a miscommunication between your motor and your ESC due to improper gear ratios
@@EastTactics True i think i Will stick WITH the 13th tooth pinion for Now until i ask him what he thinks first or i think i get STEEL GEARS first and shims
32p is mod1
Is it? Is that what the kraton is?
When and if you find uping in the dictionary? That's when I'm going to up and do that.😂🤣
Guess it depends on what dictionary you use.
Definition of Upping by the free Dictionary
v. upped, up·ping, ups
v.tr.
1. To increase: upped their fees; upping our output.
2. To raise to a higher level, especially to promote to a higher position.
3. Nautical To raise: up anchor; up sail.
My max8 g2 with 16t on 4s is faster than my max6 1250kv 20t on 4s. It's a head scratcher.
What the kv of the motor with your max 8?
@@EastTactics the 2250 4278 combo.
baloning wheels bye louise mft tires
Is that ur closet lol
🥺😬
Had to start somewhere.
More of a storage closet that was off our Thirdstory apartment patio. Ha ha.
Good old days
Ummmmm looks as if it is a motor your using for power and not a engine, I’m sorry, it’s a bit of a peeve of mine.
I can’t fault ya there, It peeves me too, now days.
Honestly... now that you mention it I think I might go in and edit the word out. Thx for the reminder.
Done! If you now were to go back and watch that video in the exact moments where the word engine is said it’s been replaced with the wonderful sound of silence 😝.
Yeah, I believe that was among one of my very first videos LOL. Still... there’s no excuse.
I’m sorry, my family is in the sand Amd gravel business where there is lots of both, I can remember a very very long time ago my dad correcting me like it was yesterday, him saying a engine works by way of combustion, motor runs on electric, lol! Those little things that I miss so so much!!!
I’m trying to locate tracks for my 8s kraton, I’ve got a castle esc and motor in it so I can control the powers accordingly and I’d love to have tracks for it, I’m gonna change the bell crank and give it a bigger servo for the steering just in case I come across something! I’d appreciate any help! Thank you!!
@@rrocket1117 This a a great video to watch when it comes to Arrma Servos, and the servo savor, I'm not sure if the same issues found in the 6s V4/V5/EXB were passed upward to the 8s line. But if your experiencing pore steering then it very well could be you servo savor. The 8s might have a larger servo savor, so the snap ring tactic (or simply adding in regular washers, if you can get'r apart) might require larger snap rings/washer.
Another thing to keep in mind if you are going in and doing work on your steering rack to to change the metal bushings to rubber sealed bearings. Again... im referencing issues with the 6s line. but it likely there are bushings in the 8s kraton too. not sure.
lastly its always good to set your steering endpoint on your servo (search my vids on that) if you haven't done that yet. And to make sure you're hub nuts/pillow balls are not overly tight.
Im sure your ESC is pushing the max voltage to your servo as they should come default at pushing 7.4 volts. However... its not unheard of that the inter BEC setting for some ESC came incorrectly set from factory to being to low. Research your ESC's manual and find out if there even is an option for you to adjust the BEC output voltage... some have the option... some dont. but that another thing to be aware of.
Lastly, getting a better Quality servo, and a nice horn that minimizes slop can go along way.
I forget if the stock 8s kraton comes standard with an aluminum servo mount... but if not.. get one of those. this eliminates any side to side movement that your servo might be experiencing from a loose, or composite servo mount. Hope all those tip help!
Stating the obvious shouldn't take 15 mins.
🥺 ... Noted