Interesting. Just a technical point, I think you're confusing swept volume with combustion chamber size. The 1293cc you refer to as "combustion chamber size" is actually the swept volume or capacity (bore x stroke) of your motor, regardless of the volume in the cylinder head. Combustion chamber volume *typically* refers to the volume of the cylinder head chamber (eg 29cc). And the .6mm of overbore you refer to I would think should be 0.060" or "60 thou". A few little things like that, but otherwise a good watch, thanks :) [edit: spelling]
You're very welcome. I've got a supercharged 1275cc in my fully restored '67 Mini Deluxe, I finished it in 2017. I have a bunch of spares that make a whole extra car, so now I'm using them to do a very very cheap built with a 998cc refresh (with a cheap turbo added for a bit more punch) so I am interested in your vids. I'm converting this second Mini to a ute (/pickup) as the shell's a bit crappy anyway, so just a bit of a laugh..tiny little bed.
Dead right, Simon. I remember rebuilding and modding a 1098 (I couldn't afford athe 1275) back in the late '80s - 60 thou over, 12G295 head (off a Sprite) and a 544 cam. I'm really looking forward to seeing how this goes - I miss that car. :-)
PS: I'm not a fan of modding that 1275 head (presumably a 12G940) for use on a 1098 - they tend to not make a good torque curve with such large combustion chambers. As Mini Mania have said: "they will make the horsepower if you rev them hard enough, but I can still make more horsepower, with a better spread of torque, using the smaller heads...When using 1.218" valves the 295 head flows the same as the 940 head with 1.3", but the 295 head is doing it with smaller volume right through." www.minimania.com/Project_Small_Bore__Part_2__Cylinder_Head Just a thought. :-)
Nice presentation and explanation. (I part rebuilt the engine as part of restoration of an Austin Mini Countryman some 30 years ago and a MG Midget after that and I still found this interesting and informative to watch)
Putting a 1275 head ...e.g. 12G940 etc on a 998cc you will need to pocket the block to avoid valve contact to the block face. Ideally a great setup is the Cooper head 12G295 or 12G206 which doesn't require the block pocketing.
Nah just keep doing what ur doing. I haven't seen any other you tube vids that cover the a series engine rebuilt in detail whist at the same time explaining all the basics. A lot of viewers. Me included will benefit from it
Great video man! I'm looking forward to watching the build. I am about to start on a rebuild of my own, a 998cc with a "magic wand". Would love a video of a "magic wand" rebuild.
Great :D Can you show all the things about restoring a engine and the most important, setting up the cam timing and the dizzy timing? like that we can rebuild our engine at home, it will be a good project for the raining days. Thanks
Some good info there....'Spark Hole Plugs' - keyboard trouble I guess, made me smile though! Spark plug hole I think! 1275 head on a 998 is sort of OK for a road job, or specially a 'Fast Road Job' (subject to valve/block clearance) but are you really suggesting a crossflow 7 or 8 port head as an alternative??? You'll need a different cam, exhaust manifold, inlet manifold, and possibly bonnet (hood) to accommodate the inlets... for about 5 HP? For a road car? It's a lot of work even for a race car.......and not legal in most race categories anyway, I believe But keep enjoying driving Mini's, best car ever I think, what a Classic G
Completely new to this and just found this video but if you had to replace the piston connecting rods would you have to get them matched to the old ones or could you simply replace them out?
That block appears to be the later A+ version of the A series. Are you going to change the camshaft? I am Looking forward to the rest of this series as I am currently about to rebuild my 998 with a few performance parts.
Almost 100% going to replace the camshaft during this build. This motor is going to be a good representation of what you can do with a solid, tuned 998.
Will you have to put valve clearance in the block for the exhaust valves? When using the 12g940 head on a small bore block or have you got a plan for this I’m keen to follow through the what your doing as I want to refresh my 1100cc motor this year and I have 998cc as well that can get done at the same time Have you had a look at Graham Russell’s website in Australia? The A series guru and knows his stuff
Yes, I definitely will have to pocket the block in order to make the head work. Do you have a link to Graham's site? I would love to see it. Pocket like this: www.minifreunde.at/2008/1101_hilfsrahmen/gr_DSC08425.JPG
His website is Russellengineering.com.au He’s only 10 minutes down the road and I still haven’t found the time to pop in for a yarn. But I’m looking at the small bore 12g202 mods he does and the over size valves He’s as good as David Vizard according to the NSW Mini club
We also offer an assortment of classic Moke-specific parts and accessories: 7ent.com/cmdiyMoke If you can't find what you're looking for, let us know and we'll track it down for you!
Hi mini DIY, great video! I have question - why does my clutch not engage when I press the clutch pedal down, the clutch arm moves but when I select gear the car doesn't do anything? Someone said could it be the clutch plate stuck on the primary gear or I think the clutch cylinder needs bleeding? What could it be... Thanks 👍🏻
I would definitely start with bleeding the clutch system, it's pretty straightforward and easy to do with a friend. I am not quite sure I see how it could be stuck on the primary gear since the clutch plate is housed outside that section of the transmission. If you want to discuss more feel free to email me classicminidiy@gmail.com
Really great overview and intro for anyone to learn a lot! I hope you’ve got your a-series book to hand. My old mini had flat top pistons which I thought were standard
Thanks for the kind words! I wondered if I would rustle some jimmies putting the coffee on the roof 😝 My understanding is that the flat top pistons were never standard on the 998's but I have been known to be wrong from time to time, hahaha.
Classic - 1275 head works on a 998 pocketed block (ie block is machined for the valves to open fully) and the gasket to use is the Metro Turbo BK450 (Payen)
No such thing. The 997cc Cooper (not 'S') was from '61 to '64 and the 998cc from '64 to '69. This is a 998 'A +' engine not 'A series' ('80 on). The 12G295 is an excellent standard head though and well worth considering but its not an 'S'. Good luck finding a good one though This is an interesting article: www.minimania.com/Project_Small_Bore__Part_2__Cylinder_Head
12G295 was standard on the 1100 MG Midget/AH Sprite - don't think they're _that_ rare yet (that's where I got my old one from, anyway.) In Australia, there were tricks like that to finding harder-to-get parts without breaking the bank. Like taking the engine from a Morris 1100 S, which turned out to be the same as the 1275 Cooper S block. No idea why they called it the 1100 S in Australia, instead of the 1300, but it was much cheaper than getting one out of an actual Cooper. :-)
aussiebloke - One thing we were very at good post WWII was using many similar parts and producing very different cars. We had to as our economy was f**ked, we had a huge overseas debt problem (and therefore HAD to export) and we lumbered ourselves with big Social programmes. This was OK in the '50s and '60s but come the '760s we just started to lose out to new competitors producing newer more advanced materials and products. if braindead managements had funded the innovation the Mini showed in '59 in the '70s we may not have lost, for example, our motorcycle industry. when you see what a reborn Triumph have achieved in such a short time proves my point.
The combustion chamber is the space where the explosion actually happens. Alternatively called the "clearance volume". The "swept volume" is the entire chamber volume between TDC and BDC which in this build is not something that factors into the equation. What we are concerned about is the additional volume for air/fuel mixture to explode. The higher the displacement in your "clearance volume" the more power you can theoretically produce.
I wouldn't get too hung up on the panels. The photo is of a military version and could have had many differences like the two extra handles each side to lift the car and turn in a tight space. They were also built in 5 different countries and each would have made local changes to ease production. (Like the early Aussie Minis had external hinges but wind up windows) I suspect that is an export / military or foreign built car. But its certainly a 'Moke'.
W1LL14M_F13LD - Hmmm and why do you call me 'American'? Because I hold a different point of view? Listen numbnuts I was working on competition Minis and Mokes in car clubs in the late '60s and '70s while rallying Fords myself. And where did I do that? Oh wait ... that would be in Essex .... UNITED KINGDOM
Interesting. Just a technical point, I think you're confusing swept volume with combustion chamber size. The 1293cc you refer to as "combustion chamber size" is actually the swept volume or capacity (bore x stroke) of your motor, regardless of the volume in the cylinder head. Combustion chamber volume *typically* refers to the volume of the cylinder head chamber (eg 29cc). And the .6mm of overbore you refer to I would think should be 0.060" or "60 thou". A few little things like that, but otherwise a good watch, thanks :) [edit: spelling]
Thanks for this insight! I'm gonna pin this comment to the top. This is great info.
You're very welcome. I've got a supercharged 1275cc in my fully restored '67 Mini Deluxe, I finished it in 2017. I have a bunch of spares that make a whole extra car, so now I'm using them to do a very very cheap built with
a 998cc refresh (with a cheap turbo added for a bit more punch) so I am interested in your vids. I'm converting this second Mini to a ute (/pickup) as the shell's a bit crappy anyway, so just a bit of a laugh..tiny little bed.
Dead right, Simon. I remember rebuilding and modding a 1098 (I couldn't afford athe 1275) back in the late '80s - 60 thou over, 12G295 head (off a Sprite) and a 544 cam. I'm really looking forward to seeing how this goes - I miss that car. :-)
PS: I'm not a fan of modding that 1275 head (presumably a 12G940) for use on a 1098 - they tend to not make a good torque curve with such large combustion chambers. As Mini Mania have said: "they will make the horsepower if you rev them hard enough, but I can still make more horsepower, with a better spread of torque, using the smaller heads...When using 1.218" valves the 295 head flows the same as the 940 head with 1.3", but the 295 head is doing it with smaller volume right through."
www.minimania.com/Project_Small_Bore__Part_2__Cylinder_Head
Just a thought. :-)
i guess Im kind of randomly asking but does anyone know of a good site to stream newly released movies online ?
I've watch a whole heap of your vids, Cole. But the start to this one always makes me smile.
By far the most detailed video I've seen. Thank you so helpful
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Nice presentation and explanation. (I part rebuilt the engine as part of restoration of an Austin Mini Countryman some 30 years ago and a MG Midget after that and I still found this interesting and informative to watch)
This series is going to be a real treat. Good work.
Thank you for the kind words
I'm really looking forward to this series of videos as I'm going to be rebuilding my 998 engine later this year.
Putting a 1275 head ...e.g. 12G940 etc on a 998cc you will need to pocket the block to avoid valve contact to the block face. Ideally a great setup is the Cooper head 12G295 or 12G206 which doesn't require the block pocketing.
Thank you for this video. I'm about to embark on a total rebuild and have no prior mechanical knowledge. This helped a lot with the basics.
👍🏼🙂
Really looking forward to this series of videos. You have a really good way of explaining things.
Thanks, man! I always worry I blabber on too much. I have been trying to reduce my "wordieness"
Nah just keep doing what ur doing. I haven't seen any other you tube vids that cover the a series engine rebuilt in detail whist at the same time explaining all the basics. A lot of viewers. Me included will benefit from it
I agree. Detail is the best bit!
Been hanging out for a video like this since i first began to restore my mini. Thanks so much 👍
Just needed to find a motor to rebuild. :-D
Glad to help out!
I love your show♥️🍀👍
Great video man! I'm looking forward to watching the build. I am about to start on a rebuild of my own, a 998cc with a "magic wand". Would love a video of a "magic wand" rebuild.
Well, this rebuild does include the "magic wand" so you're in luck!
Classic Mini DIY that's amazing!!
Good job we need someone to do this complete finished in detail thankyou
Great :D Can you show all the things about restoring a engine and the most important, setting up the cam timing and the dizzy timing? like that we can rebuild our engine at home, it will be a good project for the raining days. Thanks
Yes for sure. This is a start to finish series so I will be following the whole process until it’s driving down the road in my friends Moke.
Great. I have a 998 engine here with only 30 000 km that need a good rebuild. Thanks again for this videos :)
Agree! I think most people issue is getting the timing and distributor set up correctly and panic.
minimoe2008 its that my problem. I'm good with all things in my mini but the cams and dizzy timing are the problem.
These videos are incredibly useful! Thank you so much!
Some good info there....'Spark Hole Plugs' - keyboard trouble I guess, made me smile though! Spark plug hole I think!
1275 head on a 998 is sort of OK for a road job, or specially a 'Fast Road Job' (subject to valve/block clearance) but are you really suggesting a crossflow 7 or 8 port head as an alternative???
You'll need a different cam, exhaust manifold, inlet manifold, and possibly bonnet (hood) to accommodate the inlets... for about 5 HP? For a road car?
It's a lot of work even for a race car.......and not legal in most race categories anyway, I believe
But keep enjoying driving Mini's, best car ever I think, what a Classic
G
This is awesome. Great Detail. Looking forward to this build.
Great video covered just about everything, super educational I'm looking forward for future videos keep it up! Recommended you to a few friends
Thanks! I try to cover as much as I can. I appreciate the recommendations. 👍🏼
Another awesome video i cant wait to geek out on more rebuild videos keep up the top work matey
You and me both. This is for sure my favorite part of working on the minis.
My OCD told me right away that you should never put a cup of coffee on the roof of a classic Mini! 😂
I like to rustle peoples jimmies. :-D
Cole great video again!
Thanks!
Completely new to this and just found this video but if you had to replace the piston connecting rods would you have to get them matched to the old ones or could you simply replace them out?
Cool video
Well done 👍🏻
Thanks!
Looove Alexa!!! I too have a Mini and a Dane! Awesome fool of a doog breed...
Great vid cole , looking forward to the engine rebuild .# teamslaphead👋🏻👴👋🏻👴
Thanks Mark! :-D
Great video
That block appears to be the later A+ version of the A series. Are you going to change the camshaft? I am Looking forward to the rest of this series as I am currently about to rebuild my 998 with a few performance parts.
Almost 100% going to replace the camshaft during this build. This motor is going to be a good representation of what you can do with a solid, tuned 998.
Will you have to put valve clearance in the block for the exhaust valves? When using the 12g940 head on a small bore block or have you got a plan for this
I’m keen to follow through the what your doing as I want to refresh my 1100cc motor this year and I have 998cc as well that can get done at the same time
Have you had a look at Graham Russell’s website in Australia? The A series guru and knows his stuff
Yes, I definitely will have to pocket the block in order to make the head work. Do you have a link to Graham's site? I would love to see it.
Pocket like this: www.minifreunde.at/2008/1101_hilfsrahmen/gr_DSC08425.JPG
His website is
Russellengineering.com.au
He’s only 10 minutes down the road and I still haven’t found the time to pop in for a yarn. But I’m looking at the small bore 12g202 mods he does and the over size valves
He’s as good as David Vizard according to the NSW Mini club
We also offer an assortment of classic Moke-specific parts and accessories: 7ent.com/cmdiyMoke
If you can't find what you're looking for, let us know and we'll track it down for you!
Hi mini DIY, great video! I have question - why does my clutch not engage when I press the clutch pedal down, the clutch arm moves but when I select gear the car doesn't do anything? Someone said could it be the clutch plate stuck on the primary gear or I think the clutch cylinder needs bleeding? What could it be...
Thanks 👍🏻
I would definitely start with bleeding the clutch system, it's pretty straightforward and easy to do with a friend. I am not quite sure I see how it could be stuck on the primary gear since the clutch plate is housed outside that section of the transmission. If you want to discuss more feel free to email me classicminidiy@gmail.com
Wow dude production has stepped up massively! Really enjoyed that intro but I did cringe when you put the mug on the roof! 😝
Really great overview and intro for anyone to learn a lot! I hope you’ve got your a-series book to hand.
My old mini had flat top pistons which I thought were standard
Thanks for the kind words! I wondered if I would rustle some jimmies putting the coffee on the roof 😝
My understanding is that the flat top pistons were never standard on the 998's but I have been known to be wrong from time to time, hahaha.
It was painful to watch! Haha
When I had it tuned on the rolling road they did say it was quite strong for a 998! Who knows.
What is the biggest engine can you fit in a Moke?
Same as a mini any a-series transverse block will fit in the moke.
It would be interesting to decode the engine number to see what the original spec was
I like that idea. I’ll plan to do it when I get the motor back. 👍🏼
Camless engines!? Is the podcast from the future?
I don’t think anyone has put the freevalve technology into production yet.
Damn, I really thought I remembered the Fiat multi air motor was free valve.
Well I know this is an old comment but koenigsegg (spelling?) have have put one into production in the Gemera ( again spelling?)
hi ive just bought i 1275 and just wondering if whats sort of head its that , i know its a 1275 but what stage?
The head we’re using is just a stock 1275 head. Might add bigger valves but probably not.
Classic - 1275 head works on a 998 pocketed block (ie block is machined for the valves to open fully) and the gasket to use is the Metro Turbo BK450 (Payen)
You want a 998 cooper s head 12g295
No such thing. The 997cc Cooper (not 'S') was from '61 to '64 and the 998cc from '64 to '69. This is a 998 'A +' engine not 'A series' ('80 on). The 12G295 is an excellent standard head though and well worth considering but its not an 'S'. Good luck finding a good one though
This is an interesting article:
www.minimania.com/Project_Small_Bore__Part_2__Cylinder_Head
12G295 was standard on the 1100 MG Midget/AH Sprite - don't think they're _that_ rare yet (that's where I got my old one from, anyway.)
In Australia, there were tricks like that to finding harder-to-get parts without breaking the bank. Like taking the engine from a Morris 1100 S, which turned out to be the same as the 1275 Cooper S block. No idea why they called it the 1100 S in Australia, instead of the 1300, but it was much cheaper than getting one out of an actual Cooper. :-)
aussiebloke - One thing we were very at good post WWII was using many similar parts and producing very different cars. We had to as our economy was f**ked, we had a huge overseas debt problem (and therefore HAD to export) and we lumbered ourselves with big Social programmes. This was OK in the '50s and '60s but come the '760s we just started to lose out to new competitors producing newer more advanced materials and products. if braindead managements had funded the innovation the Mini showed in '59 in the '70s we may not have lost, for example, our motorcycle industry. when you see what a reborn Triumph have achieved in such a short time proves my point.
Swept volume not combustion chamber
The combustion chamber is the space where the explosion actually happens. Alternatively called the "clearance volume". The "swept volume" is the entire chamber volume between TDC and BDC which in this build is not something that factors into the equation. What we are concerned about is the additional volume for air/fuel mixture to explode. The higher the displacement in your "clearance volume" the more power you can theoretically produce.
Name the piston
His name is Fred.
Starts @4:30
That picture isn’t a moke
Isn’t it? Looks like a Moke to me?
Classic Mini DIY look at the side panel and the front. A Moke has 3 individual side Panels
I wouldn't get too hung up on the panels. The photo is of a military version and could have had many differences like the two extra handles each side to lift the car and turn in a tight space. They were also built in 5 different countries and each would have made local changes to ease production. (Like the early Aussie Minis had external hinges but wind up windows)
I suspect that is an export / military or foreign built car. But its certainly a 'Moke'.
Mate it’s not a Moke dunno what you Americans think mokes are but it isn’t that picture in the video
W1LL14M_F13LD - Hmmm and why do you call me 'American'? Because I hold a different point of view?
Listen numbnuts I was working on competition Minis and Mokes in car clubs in the late '60s and '70s while rallying Fords myself. And where did I do that? Oh wait ... that would be in Essex .... UNITED KINGDOM
no production car has camless piston engine...
True no production cars do although Koenigsegg is pioneering some pretty cool tech with their Free Valve motors which looks pretty cool.
They wont go to production because the ramifications of one corroded wire are far stronger than the loss caused by mechanical timing.
The Koenigsegg is actually pneumatically and electronically activated to try and solve that problem
Hahaha your jokes x
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Engine
*cringe* coffee cup on roof!
If that bothers you, you’d have a heart attack seeing the things I do while daily driving this car. 😂
Less talking more building
But I enjoy talking so much! It's still broken I can't put it back together yet. :-)