Great Job John. There are so many little things that can go wrong with a unit. Knowing the sequence of operation is a must in order to correctly diagnose problems and not just randomly replace parts. Keep up the good work.
John, you are a life saver. This was my exact same issue. I searched youtube and no one was able have an answer except you. Sure enough I unraveled my wires at the thermostat and BINGO! There it was just as you indicated , there were strippings of the wire that were touching each other. My issue was. The gas furnace would continue running even after turning power off. Thanks John for such wisdom and knowledge.
Just use a little 3 inch magnetic tray for the door switch. Less time and you can't forget it because door won't go on until magnetic tray is removed, and great way to hold screws without losing them. 👍👍
Gonna try that soon. There are just so many different styles of door switch that there really is no perfect solution I think. U even purchased a SupCo door switch device that had magnets but it could be better.
I have a coleman central electric furnace in a trailer that the heat does not kick off. Blowers does turn off and the blower works with the thermostat. I have it on auto, but the heat stays on.
@@johnjennings-JJ thanks i figured out the issue. I just turned the thermostat down so the blower wouldn't kick on and I could smell burning wire for sure. Hit the breaker, took off the panel and sure enough a jumper wire from one of the heating elements to (not for sure of name). 4 heating elements on the left side jumped to these black pieces in the center in a sequence to the heater elements on the right side. Some type of by pass, I'm really not for sure. I'll try and get the name of it tomorrow.
Ok...Gas Goodman Furance, Sometimes doesnt start when thermostat is calling for heat..and sometimes when its running it makes a noise like the fan shuts down and starts back up before the fan actually stops..Any ideas??
Tough one. First I would maybe check for any error codes on the board. But the way it sounds to me is that there isn't really any time for the board to register something. I think this is a baby sitting job! Sit down and watch it is what I would do. If you have an clamp style amp meter I would put it on the fan and make sure that is what is happening. If your ears are telling you correctly then it could possibly be a blower motor going out or a bad board that is not sending power properly. Nothing more aggravating than an intermittent problem.
The delay between the time the igniter is powered and when the gas valve is energized has nothing to do with the igniter reaching temperature. It is a timed event only. The absence of a flame and therefore a signal is what interrupts the ignition sequence.
Sorry for the late reply. I was under the weather and somehow didn't get back to you..I am on the east coast in the carolinas. If you want you can email me at jenningsj@hotmail.com.
Bad job Johnny, you don't stick your hands near a live board and teach this to many viewers. This is how people pick up bad habits and hurt themselves or worse. Licensed Refrigeration Mechanic, Heating Technician Toronto Canada and Nate Certified in the USA.
Thanks for commenting. Of course I could just say that "this is just how I do it". I tell my guys you can learn something from anyone...either good or bad. You have to make you own determination.
Lots of different ideas but for me cutting the gas valve off (or using the shutoff in the gas line) and letting a unit reset itself - no problem. Just hitting the disconnect switch and cutting it all off so you have a hot box with no airflow through it - problem.
Great Job John. There are so many little things that can go wrong with a unit. Knowing the sequence of operation is a must in order to correctly diagnose problems and not just randomly replace parts. Keep up the good work.
Thank you sir. I appreciate it.
Great Troubleshooting, Thank You.
John, you are a life saver. This was my exact same issue. I searched youtube and no one was able have an answer except you. Sure enough I unraveled my wires at the thermostat and BINGO! There it was just as you indicated , there were strippings of the wire that were touching each other. My issue was. The gas furnace would continue running even after turning power off. Thanks John for such wisdom and knowledge.
Your welcome. Its an aggravating problem sometimes!
Awesome video. Great job on investigating the thermostat wire. Good training method.
Thank you. It makes me think more doing these videos.
Great job John! Really enjoy your videos and thank you for sharing.
Thank you.
Good intel, much appreciated.
Thanks Big Johnson.
Great video John. Thank you for the knowledge.
Clear as mud.
Love these videos. Thumbs up.
Awesome. Thanks.
Good practical advice
Thanks. I try to keep it simple and stick to the basics. It usually works.
Just use a little 3 inch magnetic tray for the door switch. Less time and you can't forget it because door won't go on until magnetic tray is removed, and great way to hold screws without losing them. 👍👍
Gonna try that soon. There are just so many different styles of door switch that there really is no perfect solution I think. U even purchased a SupCo door switch device that had magnets but it could be better.
I have a coleman central electric furnace in a trailer that the heat does not kick off. Blowers does turn off and the blower works with the thermostat. I have it on auto, but the heat stays on.
Sounds like a heat sequencer issue, probably sticking closed but (depending on the exact wiring) it seems like it would also keep the blower on.
@@johnjennings-JJ thanks i figured out the issue. I just turned the thermostat down so the blower wouldn't kick on and I could smell burning wire for sure. Hit the breaker, took off the panel and sure enough a jumper wire from one of the heating elements to (not for sure of name). 4 heating elements on the left side jumped to these black pieces in the center in a sequence to the heater elements on the right side. Some type of by pass, I'm really not for sure. I'll try and get the name of it tomorrow.
Thank you 🙏
Your welcome. Thanks for checking it out.
Ok...Gas Goodman Furance, Sometimes doesnt start when thermostat is calling for heat..and sometimes when its running it makes a noise like the fan shuts down and starts back up before the fan actually stops..Any ideas??
Tough one. First I would maybe check for any error codes on the board. But the way it sounds to me is that there isn't really any time for the board to register something. I think this is a baby sitting job! Sit down and watch it is what I would do. If you have an clamp style amp meter I would put it on the fan and make sure that is what is happening. If your ears are telling you correctly then it could possibly be a blower motor going out or a bad board that is not sending power properly. Nothing more aggravating than an intermittent problem.
The delay between the time the igniter is powered and when the gas valve is energized has nothing to do with the igniter reaching temperature. It is a timed event only. The absence of a flame and therefore a signal is what interrupts the ignition sequence.
Hi, where is your school located ?
Sorry for the late reply. I was under the weather and somehow didn't get back to you..I am on the east coast in the carolinas. If you want you can email me at jenningsj@hotmail.com.
Bad job Johnny, you don't stick your hands near a live board and teach this to many viewers. This is how people pick up bad habits and hurt themselves or worse. Licensed Refrigeration Mechanic, Heating Technician Toronto Canada and Nate Certified in the USA.
Thanks for commenting. Of course I could just say that "this is just how I do it". I tell my guys you can learn something from anyone...either good or bad. You have to make you own determination.
Doesn't make a difference on a live board man grow up
@@dallascowboys2757 that is the most stupid thing I have heard, where did you learn to work with electricity, in your backyard, cowboy.
❤
The worst thing to do is to turn that gas valve off like you did. Pull the hose on the pressure switch and let it cool down.
I wouldn't say the worst thing...but we all have our ways.
Hey man can you explain this for me ...I'm new to the trade and I'm curious why it's not good to turn it off like that
@alanlacosse8850 just think about it.what are you doing by just cutting the gas? Think of the 7 steps of operation
@@5822huron preventing the blower motor from coming on and not dissipating the heat?
Lots of different ideas but for me cutting the gas valve off (or using the shutoff in the gas line) and letting a unit reset itself - no problem. Just hitting the disconnect switch and cutting it all off so you have a hot box with no airflow through it - problem.
Man wipe that pipe dope off, it looks really bad.
I can agree...i would rather use teflon tape rated for gas but that is just what was on this unit at the time.
Tell us problem at start and don’t waste time
Older video for a specific purpose but I'll go in and add that to the title or something. Thanks.