Brilliant, thank you! I've just waded through seven or eight crap videos with loud music and ego-tripping presenters that allegedly were going to show me how to wire this switch: at last, a proper video that explains it clearly! 😊
That’s the best video I’ve seen on connecting an emergency switch to a machine. Very clear unlike the rest of the rubbish videos that show you only the brown and blue wires going to the switch. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much you have saved me a shed load of money.first time I saw your video I was wiring up a old Myford lathe and without your help I could never have done this without paying a electrician.now to day I’m wiring up a Axminster wood lathe….same again…without your tutorial and help I could never in a thousand years done this….thank you so very much for taking your time to show us all how to do this….👍
Useful video, it saved me several minutes of head scratching. I've just used it to add the same switch to an old lathe. It replaced a not so ergonomic switched spur that the previous owner had rigged up. I'm glad to have a big red button to slap should I need to.
Hope this helps to clarify things for some: Pin A1 is only present on the 5-pin version and is mainly used for motor protection if required (overload etc) and usually connects to the motor. ‘IF’ your motor does not use or need the A1/5th pin then it has to be connected (shorted) to pin24 or the switch will probably not work! This is a workaround to make the 5-pin switch work in a 4-pin situation !! Best rule is to buy the unit with the correct switch in it! 4-pin or 5-pin (4-pin, 5-pin and 110v 4-pin versions are available!)
I have a KEDU KJD17B 240V UK version of this. The hole is there for the A1 terminal but it is not fitted. The emergency stop button is double pole normally closed, (both poles are NC, even though the legends on the side could easily suggest one side was NC and the other NO). Therefore, in my case, the supply feed L & N will go into the emergency stop switch. From there L goes to pin 13 of the NVR and N to pin 23. When the green 'ON' button is pressed L is switched to pin 14 and N to pin 24. As terminal A1 is missing, the magnetic coil inside is linked internally to get its power from the 'load' side of the switch. The switch is held in the on position whilst power is present and there is an audible click as the the electromagnet engages. When power is interrupted, both poles of the switch open. The electromagnet is supplied from the load side of the switch and is therefore no longer energised. When you press the red 'OFF' switch (especially slowly), there is a buzzing/vibration just before the electromagnet releases (as David Urwin mentions). This is a bit un-nerving and cheap feeling. Many people report their switch doesn't latch on. I assume this will be in versions WITH the A1 terminal. Based on my findings, this would need to be linked permanently to pin24 in order for the electromagnet to work. Probably why it is linked internally in mine. The electromagnet draws approx 4W all the time it is energised and the switch housing gets warm (although not the outer case). There is a resistance of 4.7K across pin 14 and 24 which is presumably the coil and workings of the electromagnet. This would be a good way to ensure your version has the A1 link internally. I hope this helps people, just like the original poster of this vid helped me. There seems to be many variations of this device, that look similar or identical. Use a multimeter if you have one to check yours.
@John Pettit Thanks for pointing this out. I had already done as per video on the bench and it obviously did not work. I knew A1 had to be involved but wasn't sure what to do. Once again, many thanks.
That's a great idea being your factory switch was in an awkward place! I have a Delta bench top DP and I had to replace the factory switch as it stuck in the on position! A potentially dangerous situation!!! Luckily I was able to unplug the DP before any incident. Thanks TD!!! 😃👍
i dont mean to be offtopic but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account? I was dumb lost my account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
@Thiago Abram Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Thiago Abram HOLY **** IT REALLY WORKED! I literally got access to my Instagram account details after roughly 40 mins of using the site. Just had to pay 15$ but for sure worth it :O Thank you so much, you saved my ass :D
Good video however you appear to have made a number of errors from my experience with fitting a similar NVR. The first error is that the active (Brown wire) coming from the wall plug should be connected to terminal 1 on the emergency stop switch. Second, the active (Brown wire) should come out terminal 2 on the emergency stop switch and connect with pin 13 on the on/off switch which is internally connected to pin 14. Pin 14 then goes to the motor (this is also connected internally to the electromagnet switch). The return path from the motor is connected to pin 24, which is linked internally to pin 23. The neutral (Blue wire) is connected to pin 23 and runs back to the plug to the wall socket. The most important thing that you missed is pin A1 which controls the switch relay (electromagnet switch). A wire needs to be run between pin A1 and pin 24 to power the relay switch otherwise the switch will not work. This in mind you need to connect both the output from A1 and return from the motor to the same spade terminal and connect them to terminal 24. I hope this is of assistance to anyone who wishes to install a NVR and has had troubles getting it to work.
Hi TD I have a dust extractor that is fitted with an NVR and a thermal cut out, but I want to be able to remote start it. How can I do it please. I thought about bridging the wire on the 12.13.23.24 but would that affect the thermal cut out I realise the Emegency stop wouldn’t work. Any help greatly appreciated
I've found just one thing that does not make sense. I wired the exact same switch as you did, but it didn't work! Further, hunting, I found that the long narrow spade connector, located next to the contactor, marked A1 needed to be bridged to connector 24. It seems some switches are sold with the connection being made internally, so if yours doesn't work, just bridge the twp A1to 23.
Hi, that was the auxiliary contact. It can be wired in series with another protection device if required. I'd suggest a foot operated switch that you can stamp on to stop the drill in case of mishap. See my note above. BobUK.
I Have a Separate Emergency Stop Button and a Seperate Stop/Start Buttons in there own Housings ! Could these be wired up in some manner that's safe and professional as Live would need to go to ES Housing and Neutral would need to go to Stop/Start Housing ! ???
Greetings. looks like great video, helpful. However, what is connected to the 5th terminal A1? i connect as You demonstrated on the 4 main terminals, however my table saw "runs" while i hold the green "depressed". i leave the green the motor cuts.... as if the "electromagnet" is not holding the green in on "position" :-(
@@BestUserNameUK sorted - i done that connected "A1 to #23" and wala - switch works perfectly now :-) saw turns continious until a cut in power supply of the stop is pressed. Thks
Hi. Do you know of such a fault with this type of switch my switch is the DKLD DZ-6-4 15A 250V Sounds like the off button when switching the machine off has a vibration in the switch, like some thing is pushing from the other side. Can you please tell me if this is normal.
David, bit late to reply .. but I have a similar (but not identical) NVR to you. There is an energised magnet inside that keeps the switch in a closed position. Mine also makes a slightly un-nerving buzzing vibration when pressing the red off switch. I would imagine this is just a result of the way the electromagnetic coil/magnet releases. Still a bit 'cheap' feeling.
I have the same NVR switch installed. But for unknown reason when I press the "ON" the current only flows when the "ON" button is depressed and when I let go of the "ON" button the current cuts off. Is my NVR switch faulty?
Thanks for the video. I see that you did not connect the 5th terminal on the on/off switch. This terminal is to disconnect the connection in the event of loss of mains supply. This prevents the drill starting up immediately if the power is restored. The 5th terminal is connected to neutral
@@BestUserNameUK Hi, I just looked at this video 'NVR Switch with Emergency Stop added to Titan Drill Press' and see that it indeed stops with loss of mains supply. Have you got any idea why it works if the 5th terminal is not connected ?
@@RobertKza Pin A1 is only present on the 5-pin version and is mainly used for motor protection if required and connects to the motor. ‘IF’ your motor does not use A1/5th pin then it has to be connected to pin24 or the switch will not work! This is a workaround to make the 5-pin switch work in a 4-pin situation. Best rule is to buy the correct switch! 4-pin or 5-pin :)
Hi plugged arrived and now wired in but the green button will not engage see here.. ua-cam.com/video/VsEBlDbtLFc/v-deo.html does the green button on yours click when pressed?
@@BestUserNameUK thanks for the swift reply. I have also run it through a 20amp cooker switch to test it with no luck, the only way I can get it and another motor to run is via direct wiring - it seems that if there is a any switch inline, it failsto start
Brilliant, thank you! I've just waded through seven or eight crap videos with loud music and ego-tripping presenters that allegedly were going to show me how to wire this switch: at last, a proper video that explains it clearly! 😊
That’s the best video I’ve seen on connecting an emergency switch to a machine. Very clear unlike the rest of the rubbish videos that show you only the brown and blue wires going to the switch. Thank you so much.
Totally agree best video by far.
Thank you so much you have saved me a shed load of money.first time I saw your video I was wiring up a old
Myford lathe and without your help I could never have done this without paying a electrician.now to day I’m wiring up a Axminster wood lathe….same again…without your tutorial and help I could never in a thousand years done this….thank you so very much for taking your time to show us all how to do this….👍
Just wanted to say many thanks my lathe is nearly wired up thanks to your tutorial. Top man.
Thanks again
Useful video, it saved me several minutes of head scratching.
I've just used it to add the same switch to an old lathe. It replaced a not so ergonomic switched spur that the previous owner had rigged up. I'm glad to have a big red button to slap should I need to.
Hope this helps to clarify things for some: Pin A1 is only present on the 5-pin version and is mainly used for motor protection if required (overload etc) and usually connects to the motor.
‘IF’ your motor does not use or need the A1/5th pin then it has to be connected (shorted) to pin24 or the switch will probably not work!
This is a workaround to make the 5-pin switch work in a 4-pin situation !!
Best rule is to buy the unit with the correct switch in it! 4-pin or 5-pin (4-pin, 5-pin and 110v 4-pin versions are available!)
Found your link from another channel, so popped over, great explanation for us novice electricians
Thanks
Kev
At last I got an explanation that makes sense.THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH.Subscribed.
Just going to order one of these switches.and now I know how to wire it up through your video thanks 🙏 Eric Hart from the uk 🇬🇧
Many thanks, managed to buy exactly same version that you use in video so very simple to follow your instructions.
I have a KEDU KJD17B 240V UK version of this.
The hole is there for the A1 terminal but it is not fitted.
The emergency stop button is double pole normally closed, (both poles are NC, even though the legends on the side could easily suggest one side was NC and the other NO).
Therefore, in my case, the supply feed L & N will go into the emergency stop switch. From there L goes to pin 13 of the NVR and N to pin 23.
When the green 'ON' button is pressed L is switched to pin 14 and N to pin 24.
As terminal A1 is missing, the magnetic coil inside is linked internally to get its power from the 'load' side of the switch. The switch is held in the on position whilst power is present and there is an audible click as the the electromagnet engages.
When power is interrupted, both poles of the switch open. The electromagnet is supplied from the load side of the switch and is therefore no longer energised.
When you press the red 'OFF' switch (especially slowly), there is a buzzing/vibration just before the electromagnet releases (as David Urwin mentions). This is a bit un-nerving and cheap feeling.
Many people report their switch doesn't latch on. I assume this will be in versions WITH the A1 terminal. Based on my findings, this would need to be linked permanently to pin24 in order for the electromagnet to work. Probably why it is linked internally in mine.
The electromagnet draws approx 4W all the time it is energised and the switch housing gets warm (although not the outer case).
There is a resistance of 4.7K across pin 14 and 24 which is presumably the coil and workings of the electromagnet. This would be a good way to ensure your version has the A1 link internally.
I hope this helps people, just like the original poster of this vid helped me. There seems to be many variations of this device, that look similar or identical. Use a multimeter if you have one to check yours.
got one of these on order, you are just what I needed.
Glad to be of help👍🏻
@John Pettit Thanks for pointing this out. I had already done as per video on the bench and it obviously did not work. I knew A1 had to be involved but wasn't sure what to do. Once again, many thanks.
Excellent! Couldn't have been clearer. Thank you.
Great job and appreciations for the good details thanks for sharing with us this video .u are the man and great teacher 👍🙏🇩🇰
Thanks!
That's a great idea being your factory switch was in an awkward place! I have a Delta bench top DP and I had to replace the factory switch as it stuck in the on position! A potentially dangerous situation!!! Luckily I was able to unplug the DP before any incident. Thanks TD!!! 😃👍
i dont mean to be offtopic but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I was dumb lost my account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
@Trenton Dash instablaster =)
@Thiago Abram Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Thiago Abram HOLY **** IT REALLY WORKED! I literally got access to my Instagram account details after roughly 40 mins of using the site.
Just had to pay 15$ but for sure worth it :O
Thank you so much, you saved my ass :D
@Trenton Dash Happy to help :D
Brilliant!! 🎉🎉
lost the wiring diagram - thank you for a very clear explanation what to do
Good video however you appear to have made a number of errors from my experience with fitting a similar NVR. The first error is that the active (Brown wire) coming from the wall plug should be connected to terminal 1 on the emergency stop switch. Second, the active (Brown wire) should come out terminal 2 on the emergency stop switch and connect with pin 13 on the on/off switch which is internally connected to pin 14. Pin 14 then goes to the motor (this is also connected internally to the electromagnet switch). The return path from the motor is connected to pin 24, which is linked internally to pin 23. The neutral (Blue wire) is connected to pin 23 and runs back to the plug to the wall socket. The most important thing that you missed is pin A1 which controls the switch relay (electromagnet switch). A wire needs to be run between pin A1 and pin 24 to power the relay switch otherwise the switch will not work. This in mind you need to connect both the output from A1 and return from the motor to the same spade terminal and connect them to terminal 24. I hope this is of assistance to anyone who wishes to install a NVR and has had troubles getting it to work.
Thanks John. You are obviously more qualified than I am re: electrics.. I appreciate your comment👍🏻
Not really, it was just hard won experience by trial and error, or might I say trial by ordeal.@@BestUserNameUK
@@johnwp111 Check my other vid' as the switch functions correctly and the wiring is as per the diagram supplied.
Will do.@@BestUserNameUK
@@johnwp111 Thanks John, you're kudo
hello! thanks for the help. is it possible to wire a endswich too?
Cheers mate just wired my lathe up with the switch
Thanks for that, instructions that came with mine were wrong!
Nice explained!
Thanks👍🏻
Great thanks for this
Hi TD I have a dust extractor that is fitted with an NVR and a thermal cut out, but I want to be able to remote start it. How can I do it please. I thought about bridging the wire on the 12.13.23.24 but would that affect the thermal cut out I realise the Emegency stop wouldn’t work. Any help greatly appreciated
Would this work with a 12v Supply from battery and no ground (i think so but i wanna be sure)
I've found just one thing that does not make sense. I wired the exact same switch as you did, but it didn't work!
Further, hunting, I found that the long narrow spade connector, located next to the contactor, marked A1 needed to be bridged to connector 24. It seems some switches are sold with the connection being made internally, so if yours doesn't work, just bridge the twp A1to 23.
Hi, that was the auxiliary contact. It can be wired in series with another protection device if required. I'd suggest a foot operated switch that you can stamp on to stop the drill in case of mishap. See my note above. BobUK.
A well made video.
Thanks very much👍🏻
I Have a Separate Emergency Stop Button and a Seperate Stop/Start Buttons in there own Housings ! Could these be wired up in some manner that's safe and professional as Live would need to go to ES Housing and Neutral would need to go to Stop/Start Housing ! ???
Greetings. looks like great video, helpful. However, what is connected to the 5th terminal A1? i connect as You demonstrated on the 4 main terminals, however my table saw "runs" while i hold the green "depressed". i leave the green the motor cuts.... as if the "electromagnet" is not holding the green in on "position" :-(
Hi. Scroll down to John Pettits comment & replies. Yours seems to be a common problem.
@@BestUserNameUK sorted - i done that connected "A1 to #23" and wala - switch works perfectly now :-) saw turns continious until a cut in power supply of the stop is pressed. Thks
Nice explanation….a labelled diagram at the end would be useful..
please advise , 4 wires coming from table saw motor with capacitor , were do the go
Hi. Do you know of such a fault with this type of switch my switch is the DKLD DZ-6-4 15A
250V Sounds like the off button when switching the machine off has a
vibration in the switch, like some thing is pushing from the other
side. Can you please tell me if this is normal.
David, bit late to reply .. but I have a similar (but not identical) NVR to you. There is an energised magnet inside that keeps the switch in a closed position. Mine also makes a slightly un-nerving buzzing vibration when pressing the red off switch. I would imagine this is just a result of the way the electromagnetic coil/magnet releases. Still a bit 'cheap' feeling.
How can I connect a similar emergency stop to a three phase power supply?
Have you done a video for the KJD12 switch. I bought one but it had no diagram. There are terminals 1&3 IN: 2&4 OUT but which is which?
Diagram is found on the side of the switch....
your switch will not latch on unless you connect the A1 terminal to activate the solenoid to pin 24
but my m/c motors side have 4cable.. power side 3cable.. that's why I'm confuse. how can fix that bro?
Not available in US?
l want to NVR sw full working video also.
how to add capacitor ?
I'm trying to do the opposite, I wants to remove my nvr and replace it with a toggle switch on a chip extractor
can you provide the part number for the 240v version? I can only find the 120v version.
Try www.kewonline.net/store/product/a-nvr-no-volt-release-stopstart-emergency-stop-switch-kjd17-d2
I have the same NVR switch installed. But for unknown reason when I press the "ON" the current only flows when the "ON" button is depressed and when I let go of the "ON" button the current cuts off. Is my NVR switch faulty?
The circuit is not latching and you have a momentary push button by the sounds of it.
It's that A1 connection! Bridge it to 24
Thanks for the video. I see that you did not connect the 5th terminal on the on/off switch. This terminal is to disconnect the connection in the event of loss of mains supply. This prevents the drill starting up immediately if the power is restored. The 5th terminal is connected to neutral
See my other vid'.. you'll see why👍🏻.. thanks for watching.
@@BestUserNameUK Hi, I just looked at this video 'NVR Switch with Emergency Stop added to Titan Drill Press' and see that it indeed stops with loss of mains supply. Have you got any idea why it works if the 5th terminal is not connected ?
@@RobertKza Sorry but I'm unsure as to the use of the other terminal. I simply followed the supplied wiring diagram.
thank you . I have been looking everywhere for that info.and now I know where to run the wire to
@@RobertKza Pin A1 is only present on the 5-pin version and is mainly used for motor protection if required and connects to the motor.
‘IF’ your motor does not use A1/5th pin then it has to be connected to pin24 or the switch will not work! This is a workaround to make the 5-pin switch work in a 4-pin situation.
Best rule is to buy the correct switch! 4-pin or 5-pin :)
Good videotography however incorrect information given.
Refer to John Petitte's comment below for the correct wiring .
Wheres the one without emergency.. button the one with 6 terminl like ka05
Hi plugged arrived and now wired in but the green button will not engage see here..
ua-cam.com/video/VsEBlDbtLFc/v-deo.html
does the green button on yours click when pressed?
Did you solve it?
any idea why mine wire wired this way wont latch? it starts but wont run
Maybe a faulty switch? I had the same issue with another switch. The 'on' button would not engage so the machine would not stay on.
@@BestUserNameUK thanks for the swift reply.
I have also run it through a 20amp cooker switch to test it with no luck, the only way I can get it and another motor to run is via direct wiring - it seems that if there is a any switch inline, it failsto start
See
John Pettit in comments This fixed the same problem for me