Having studied the IEEE wiring regulations some years ago one alarming thing sticks out - do not use the earth wire as a live conductor. Re-using the earth conductor is a no no. Regulations say something like ""The bi-colour combination green and yellow shall be used exclusively for identification of a protective conductor and this combination shall not be used for any other purpose "". You need to go and buy a cable with three counductors + earth, so four in total. You local diy store probablly has some, if not there are plenty of other places to buy cable (Toolstation, Screwfix, TLC, etc.). I think I would have also put a second stop switch by the exit door. Then if something goes up in flames you can still hit the stop button as you'r running out the room. Simply wire the stop switches in series.
That's a properly done emergency stop system, only thing I would add is you could have 2 NC contacts in series on the stop button (for redundancy, in industrial estop systems, it's generally 2 channels, each button has 2 NC contacts, one for each channel, it stops if any of the circuits is broken and won't let you start again unless the both get closed at the same time which works as a self test and anti tamper system) considering you have a contactor that has sufficiently sized contacts, going for series on that is also better (the priority is to break the line, not to close the contacts) On another note... I have 2 machines at work which need to get the E-stop made from scratch, since the chineese made it NO contacts... Also, in Poland we call the E-stop buttons mushrooms
Emergency stop button is great if you work with mains or power electronics. When FETs start smoking or sparks begin to fly, it is so great to have a quick switch to power everything off.. I think if you have room to make a lab, you should have one. It is also very handy to power everything off by a single point when you're finished.
I would use a 3 way box for the control pendant, with Estop at the bottom, a green recessed push pendant at top, with only a single NO contact, and then in the middle a red LED lamp unit. Otherwise a 2 way box, a combined start stop lamp unit, and the Estop in the other. 4 core cable to wire it, as with the lamp you need a neutral, unless you are prepared to rewire it so it is current operated instead, in which case it goes in series with the coil wire. Control box the breaker is a good idea, and also remember that contacts 13 and 14 are there strictly for signal current use, they are not mains rated like 1-6 are, but only for 1A coil loads. As the main contacts are double break anyway, a single one will not stick easily, and they are capable as well of breaking 16A, and will survive turning on into a short longer than it takes the fuse to blow. A tip is to put a 275VAC MOV across the coil itself, to reduce the spike on power off, and place another on the output as well. easiest way to do so is to ignore contact 5 and 6, and use the output side as a common neutral bus point instead with contact 6, giving a convenient connection block. For the coil a small 7mm MOV will work, but for the output a much larger unit is preferable, with either a thermal fuse disconnect shrink sleeved to it, or with built in thermal protection. At home I use a 63A relay for lighting control, just because I got it as scrap metal with a box, and it is massive overkill, but survives all shorts perfectly, and likely will wear out physically from the cores breaking before anything else fails. Similar idea, to control lighting from a single photocontrol, and also allows manual operation with a switch. With the boxes as well use good quality cable glands, and if they are metal boxes a metal gland. use thread locker on the threads as well, so they do not come loose with movement, I have made plenty of extension cords using industrial socket outlets, as those come with a metal box, and are very tough. You can chain them together using couplings, so you get a nice selection of sockets, though here you do not find BS rectangular pin sockets often ( mostly only for dedicated use in old buildings), but round pin socket outlets, and now I also use regular surface boxes as well, to hold dual outlets and the type M sockets, just use the heavy duty ones, typically Legrand.
Hi! Really well done, but you should only use green/yellow for PE and blue for neutral. This is rather a must than a should, even for the blue wire, given the ubiquitous TN earthing system you have in the UK. 3-wire cords are commonly available with brown/black/gray wires. Also, should one of the contactor's way weld closed for whatever reason, it would be pointless for the other two to open. Three phase contactors (and motor relays) are usually wired in series when used single-phase. In a TT system you would use two ways in series for phase and one for neutral. Wiring them in parallel can multiply almost by three the chance of something going wrong...I say almost because the contacts are sharing the load and thus subject to a lighter duty. The emergency stop button in many cases can also be wired with two contacts in series.
Excellent tutorial for the serious hobbyist, all power tools should be fed via this control system. Great explanation on a latching circuit. I test and commission special purpose machines. I would prefer to have the multiple contacts in series, sharing the convention when using 3 Phase Circuit Breaker with a 2 phase supply. NVR is standard on all 3 phase machines, we also use two channel E-Stop with monitoring safety relays. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Steve...when we moved into our current (no pun intended!) home I needed a 220VAC line run to my ham radio room to power my HF linear amplifier. I had the electrician install a "pony panel" with appropriate circuit breakers, with a large "Emergency" sign on the cover. My better half knows that if she finds me doing the "funky chicken" that she goes to the panel to switch off everything at the radio desk and workbench, hopefully in time! Happy Holidays!
Has your better half ever found you doing the 'funky chicken'? (I am still giggling with the image of someone in a basement doing the funky chicken until their other half comes along and hits the emergency stop where upon they collapse in a heap saying something clever)
@@kissingfrogs Fortunately not to date and hopefully never! I got bit once in high school in the late 60's building a Novice transmitter...somehow grabbed the B+ line and the next thing I knew I was half way across the room; learned my one-hand-in-the-pocket lesson the hard way and would prefer not to rely on someone else to save me..."Oh dear, would you mind switching the breaker off for me please?" ;-)
I’ve worked in a printing press / bindery and you’d be eaten up by nasty machine works if ever you let yourself doze off and fall forward. So we had our emergency stop switches which were identical to yours hanging from the rafters above and the switch would Literally hang at a height of about 1.6 meters from the floor in a very suitable location. As a reminder to keep ourselves nice and wide eyed and alert, right up on the wall behind the machinery and at eye level, we would hang some sort of ugly looking sheet of corrugated cardboard with red ink spilled on it (suggesting that it was under the feet of an unlucky soul who was recently inducted into the amputee’s club, at the time of their initiation rite)! There are a great many more dangers around these industrious places that would maybe not come to mind upon a simple first tour of the facility. I’ve seen so many types of factories and research plants and et cetera that had unbelievable installations with all types of specialty environments while my father worked as a structural engineer for 3M. The common detail that I couldn’t ever forget in any of these places is that red button! In a nuclear reactor that button would flood the reactor with boron! In a chemistry laboratory inside of small room inside a warehouse, with lines on the outside of the walls on the floor that say, “Stay clear! Do not cross line!”. Push the red button in there? It’s walls would literally blow out to release pressure, and return it’s conditions to stable before a more dreadful chemical reaction could cause something far more catastrophic to happen. Then when I visited my sister after she started work at the Federal Reserve bank, I learned that there, those buttons lock the whole building down and prevent anyone from leaving in the event of a mad gunman, robbers, or renegade robots gone haywire. Literally bars or walls come and slam down in front of the windows and doors, and this is a huge building with ~twenty floors. I guess what I’m getting at is that the bigger that red button is in my mind’s eye, the more fearful I am of pressing it! It would be an irresponsible thing to just push that button without any real cause for the action. It would be a costly mistake in many situations. Still as we might remember at Fukushima, they could have preserved a great deal of security and trust had they been more ready to flood that reactor with boron, but that would imply some serious consequences. I fear the day when prospects outweigh the safety of workers, and the public. For now, there’s building codes, but it’s a sad observation that these codes should be the law when safety ought to come before earnings. To think that there would be fewer considerations made for safety if greedy corporations were allowed to act without oversight, that makes me feel pretty down. Excellent project! THANKS FOR SHARING!
First of all: Great idea, wonderful attitude and proper use of a circuit breaker for separate paths of switched equipment in your design. As an option for such applications, it is better to use a safety relay that meets the requirements of EN 60947-5-1, EN 60204-1 and VDE 0113-1. Maybe you also need to place more than one safety switch as stated in DIN EN 60204-1:2019-06;VDE 0113-1:2019-06/VDE 0113-1:2019-06. see "Safety of machinery - Emergency stop function - Principles for design", ISO 13850:2015. Your ABB ESB24-40 contactor conforms to EN 60947-4-1. That is good. The purpose of that specialized gear i mention is that they have a protection from mechanically and electrically latch up in a failure condition(Even a partial contact error is guaranteed not to occur). This shouldn't be a critique at your implementation, just a reminder what is possible and the guideline: Better no security than false security;) As stated by Drachenkatze and Archibald Frederick: Do not re-purpose the green/yellow Schutzleiter! It is a bad habit with or without colored cable-sleeves. You don't know who handles your installation in 20 years. This is out of your control. What lies in your hand is to use a proper cable. There are plenty ones out there, like the cables with numbers on the cores or without green/yellow for switching-applications. For people in a country without a regulation like IEC 60364-41-1/VDE 0100-410: Just don't do it. Its selfish, lazy and irresponsible(Again, no accusation against the creator or the viewers, just a reminder, just do it!;).
I really like this, but. Why is it no voltage? It has 240v through it. Would it not have been better to make it safer and fit a din rail psu and bring it down to 12 or 24v and use a dc contactor?
Should be noted that working with or on mains level voltage systems should only really be done by a licensed electrician for a number of reasons, #1 being safety.
Nice explanation. I was expecting more comment heat regarding the use of the Green/Yellow. My interpretation of what I have heard was it can be used for something other than earth as long as the exposed section is completely sleeved in another appropriate colour so the green/yellow is no longer visible. Curious what others think/know.
This varies by country. In Germany for private households there's no requirement to get electrical installation verified in regular intervals. Basically: Whatever you install for yourself is your responsibility. If nothing serious happens with the installation, no problem. However, in case of injuries or fire the insurance companies or legal authorities will check if you did the installation properly. However, I always recommend to follow standards as closely as possible and using Green/Yellow for PE only. According to EN 60204-1, the use of Green/Yellow is not explicitly prohibited. For Germany, DIN VDE 0100-54 prohibits the use of Green/Yellow for other purposes. Unfortunately, most of the information regarding this can only be found on the german Wikipedia article "Schutzleiter".
the LED's on your socket tester are in different polarities from live :D thats awesome! and you can always run the stop switches in series so if one gets hit everything goes out.
Not sure what would tick off our local electricians more: Using green/yellow for a live connection (which some do here too) or twisting a stranded cable (which is a mortal sin according to others) ;)
Hi Steve, can you list the other components in the video too like the socket tester, the circuit breakers, and the mk metal clad socket box, i'm from US so this won't apply to me but just curious.
Hey Steve, i am late to this topic but I try to leave my question here as well. Is it possible to have multiple e stops on different places in the shop for the same funktion? What i mean ist a quick safety stop for all from every spot in the shop. Hope this makes sense ;-). Thanks in advance and cheers Tim (from France)
Yes absolutely. It depends on the exact contactor used, but normally all of the emergency stop buttons would be wired in series so that if any button breaks the circuit, the contactor is de-energised. Since it is configured to latch, the contactor will remain de-energised until the reset is applied.
Hi, nice video, however I'd rather user a low control voltage for the contactor (e.g 12V or 24V). It's not relly safe to have a mains cable on the bench. Stay Safe bye
Live Gn/Yl !! eeek!! I know you've just finished it, but take it apart; go down to screwfux and buy a lump of this: - www.screwfix.com/p/nexans-round-flex-3185y-5-core-1mm-5m-white/1770t When it's done properly, it'll be as good as a shop-bought one and you'll be proud to post it on yewtewb!
Having studied the IEEE wiring regulations some years ago one alarming thing sticks out - do not use the earth wire as a live conductor.
Re-using the earth conductor is a no no. Regulations say something like ""The bi-colour combination green and yellow shall be used exclusively for identification of a protective conductor and this combination shall not be used for any other purpose "". You need to go and buy a cable with three counductors + earth, so four in total. You local diy store probablly has some, if not there are plenty of other places to buy cable (Toolstation, Screwfix, TLC, etc.).
I think I would have also put a second stop switch by the exit door. Then if something goes up in flames you can still hit the stop button as you'r running out the room. Simply wire the stop switches in series.
I am ALWAYS leaving stuff on in the workshop. The law of averages mean you WILL leave something on at some point. A great solution Steve.
That's a properly done emergency stop system, only thing I would add is you could have 2 NC contacts in series on the stop button (for redundancy, in industrial estop systems, it's generally 2 channels, each button has 2 NC contacts, one for each channel, it stops if any of the circuits is broken and won't let you start again unless the both get closed at the same time which works as a self test and anti tamper system) considering you have a contactor that has sufficiently sized contacts, going for series on that is also better (the priority is to break the line, not to close the contacts)
On another note... I have 2 machines at work which need to get the E-stop made from scratch, since the chineese made it NO contacts...
Also, in Poland we call the E-stop buttons mushrooms
Emergency stop button is great if you work with mains or power electronics. When FETs start smoking or sparks begin to fly, it is so great to have a quick switch to power everything off..
I think if you have room to make a lab, you should have one. It is also very handy to power everything off by a single point when you're finished.
I would use a 3 way box for the control pendant, with Estop at the bottom, a green recessed push pendant at top, with only a single NO contact, and then in the middle a red LED lamp unit. Otherwise a 2 way box, a combined start stop lamp unit, and the Estop in the other. 4 core cable to wire it, as with the lamp you need a neutral, unless you are prepared to rewire it so it is current operated instead, in which case it goes in series with the coil wire.
Control box the breaker is a good idea, and also remember that contacts 13 and 14 are there strictly for signal current use, they are not mains rated like 1-6 are, but only for 1A coil loads. As the main contacts are double break anyway, a single one will not stick easily, and they are capable as well of breaking 16A, and will survive turning on into a short longer than it takes the fuse to blow. A tip is to put a 275VAC MOV across the coil itself, to reduce the spike on power off, and place another on the output as well. easiest way to do so is to ignore contact 5 and 6, and use the output side as a common neutral bus point instead with contact 6, giving a convenient connection block. For the coil a small 7mm MOV will work, but for the output a much larger unit is preferable, with either a thermal fuse disconnect shrink sleeved to it, or with built in thermal protection.
At home I use a 63A relay for lighting control, just because I got it as scrap metal with a box, and it is massive overkill, but survives all shorts perfectly, and likely will wear out physically from the cores breaking before anything else fails. Similar idea, to control lighting from a single photocontrol, and also allows manual operation with a switch.
With the boxes as well use good quality cable glands, and if they are metal boxes a metal gland. use thread locker on the threads as well, so they do not come loose with movement, I have made plenty of extension cords using industrial socket outlets, as those come with a metal box, and are very tough. You can chain them together using couplings, so you get a nice selection of sockets, though here you do not find BS rectangular pin sockets often ( mostly only for dedicated use in old buildings), but round pin socket outlets, and now I also use regular surface boxes as well, to hold dual outlets and the type M sockets, just use the heavy duty ones, typically Legrand.
Hi! Really well done, but you should only use green/yellow for PE and blue for neutral. This is rather a must than a should, even for the blue wire, given the ubiquitous TN earthing system you have in the UK. 3-wire cords are commonly available with brown/black/gray wires.
Also, should one of the contactor's way weld closed for whatever reason, it would be pointless for the other two to open. Three phase contactors (and motor relays) are usually wired in series when used single-phase. In a TT system you would use two ways in series for phase and one for neutral. Wiring them in parallel can multiply almost by three the chance of something going wrong...I say almost because the contacts are sharing the load and thus subject to a lighter duty. The emergency stop button in many cases can also be wired with two contacts in series.
Excellent tutorial for the serious hobbyist, all power tools should be fed via this control system. Great explanation on a latching circuit.
I test and commission special purpose machines.
I would prefer to have the multiple contacts in series, sharing the convention when using 3 Phase Circuit Breaker with a 2 phase supply. NVR is standard on all 3 phase machines, we also use two channel E-Stop with monitoring safety relays.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Steve...when we moved into our current (no pun intended!) home I needed a 220VAC line run to my ham radio room to power my HF linear amplifier. I had the electrician install a "pony panel" with appropriate circuit breakers, with a large "Emergency" sign on the cover. My better half knows that if she finds me doing the "funky chicken" that she goes to the panel to switch off everything at the radio desk and workbench, hopefully in time! Happy Holidays!
Has your better half ever found you doing the 'funky chicken'? (I am still giggling with the image of someone in a basement doing the funky chicken until their other half comes along and hits the emergency stop where upon they collapse in a heap saying something clever)
@@kissingfrogs Fortunately not to date and hopefully never! I got bit once in high school in the late 60's building a Novice transmitter...somehow grabbed the B+ line and the next thing I knew I was half way across the room; learned my one-hand-in-the-pocket lesson the hard way and would prefer not to rely on someone else to save me..."Oh dear, would you mind switching the breaker off for me please?" ;-)
@Dino, thanks for the laugh 😂😂😂
I’ve worked in a printing press / bindery and you’d be eaten up by nasty machine works if ever you let yourself doze off and fall forward. So we had our emergency stop switches which were identical to yours hanging from the rafters above and the switch would
Literally hang at a height of about 1.6 meters from the floor in a very suitable location. As a reminder to keep ourselves nice and wide eyed and alert, right up on the wall behind the machinery and at eye level, we would hang some sort of ugly looking sheet of corrugated cardboard with red ink spilled on it (suggesting that it was under the feet of an unlucky soul who was recently inducted into the amputee’s club, at the time of their initiation rite)! There are a great many more dangers around these industrious places that would maybe not come to mind upon a simple first tour of the facility. I’ve seen so many types of factories and research plants and et cetera that had unbelievable installations with all types of specialty environments while my father worked as a structural engineer for 3M. The common detail that I couldn’t ever forget in any of these places is that red button! In a nuclear reactor that button would flood the reactor with boron! In a chemistry laboratory inside of small room inside a warehouse, with lines on the outside of the walls on the floor that say, “Stay clear! Do not cross line!”. Push the red button in there? It’s walls would literally blow out to release pressure, and return it’s conditions to stable before a more dreadful chemical reaction could cause something far more catastrophic to happen. Then when I visited my sister after she started work at the Federal Reserve bank, I learned that there, those buttons lock the whole building down and prevent anyone from leaving in the event of a mad gunman, robbers, or renegade robots gone haywire. Literally bars or walls come and slam down in front of the windows and doors, and this is a huge building with ~twenty floors. I guess what I’m getting at is that the bigger that red button is in my mind’s eye, the more fearful I am of pressing it! It would be an irresponsible thing to just push that button without any real cause for the action. It would be a costly mistake in many situations. Still as we might remember at Fukushima, they could have preserved a great deal of security and trust had they been more ready to flood that reactor with boron, but that would imply some serious consequences. I fear the day when prospects outweigh the safety of workers, and the public. For now, there’s building codes, but it’s a sad observation that these codes should be the law when safety ought to come before earnings. To think that there would be fewer considerations made for safety if greedy corporations were allowed to act without oversight, that makes me feel pretty down. Excellent project! THANKS FOR SHARING!
First of all: Great idea, wonderful attitude and proper use of a circuit breaker for separate paths of switched equipment in your design.
As an option for such applications, it is better to use a safety relay that meets the requirements of EN 60947-5-1, EN 60204-1 and VDE 0113-1. Maybe you also need to place more than one safety switch as stated in DIN EN 60204-1:2019-06;VDE 0113-1:2019-06/VDE 0113-1:2019-06. see "Safety of machinery - Emergency stop function - Principles for design", ISO 13850:2015.
Your ABB ESB24-40 contactor conforms to EN 60947-4-1. That is good. The purpose of that specialized gear i mention is that they have a protection from mechanically and electrically latch up in a failure condition(Even a partial contact error is guaranteed not to occur). This shouldn't be a critique at your implementation, just a reminder what is possible and the guideline: Better no security than false security;)
As stated by Drachenkatze and Archibald Frederick: Do not re-purpose the green/yellow Schutzleiter! It is a bad habit with or without colored cable-sleeves. You don't know who handles your installation in 20 years. This is out of your control. What lies in your hand is to use a proper cable. There are plenty ones out there, like the cables with numbers on the cores or without green/yellow for switching-applications. For people in a country without a regulation like IEC 60364-41-1/VDE 0100-410: Just don't do it. Its selfish, lazy and irresponsible(Again, no accusation against the creator or the viewers, just a reminder, just do it!;).
I really like this, but. Why is it no voltage? It has 240v through it. Would it not have been better to make it safer and fit a din rail psu and bring it down to 12 or 24v and use a dc contactor?
Very helpful video. Invaluable insights for my own project. thanks for posting! :D
That is a very nice safety feature to have in a lab. Thank you very much.
Should be noted that working with or on mains level voltage systems should only really be done by a licensed electrician for a number of reasons, #1 being safety.
Nice explanation. I was expecting more comment heat regarding the use of the Green/Yellow. My interpretation of what I have heard was it can be used for something other than earth as long as the exposed section is completely sleeved in another appropriate colour so the green/yellow is no longer visible. Curious what others think/know.
This varies by country. In Germany for private households there's no requirement to get electrical installation verified in regular intervals. Basically: Whatever you install for yourself is your responsibility. If nothing serious happens with the installation, no problem. However, in case of injuries or fire the insurance companies or legal authorities will check if you did the installation properly. However, I always recommend to follow standards as closely as possible and using Green/Yellow for PE only.
According to EN 60204-1, the use of Green/Yellow is not explicitly prohibited. For Germany, DIN VDE 0100-54 prohibits the use of Green/Yellow for other purposes. Unfortunately, most of the information regarding this can only be found on the german Wikipedia article "Schutzleiter".
@@alek202 basically the same in the UK
the LED's on your socket tester are in different polarities from live :D thats awesome! and you can always run the stop switches in series so if one gets hit everything goes out.
Not sure what would tick off our local electricians more: Using green/yellow for a live connection (which some do here too) or twisting a stranded cable (which is a mortal sin according to others) ;)
The stranded wire actually had that twist in it. Not done by me!
Nice job there Steve 👍
Great project! I think I will implement something similar in my own workshop.
Hi Steve, can you list the other components in the video too like the socket tester, the circuit breakers, and the mk metal clad socket box, i'm from US so this won't apply to me but just curious.
Hey Steve, i am late to this topic but I try to leave my question here as well. Is it possible to have multiple e stops on different places in the shop for the same funktion? What i mean ist a quick safety stop for all from every spot in the shop. Hope this makes sense ;-).
Thanks in advance and cheers Tim (from France)
Yes absolutely. It depends on the exact contactor used, but normally all of the emergency stop buttons would be wired in series so that if any button breaks the circuit, the contactor is de-energised. Since it is configured to latch, the contactor will remain de-energised until the reset is applied.
Would it work with 12v
Does mcb have to be c type? As its only connected to a switch
No, it's just what I had to hand.
Really good video brother
I call it DOL Direct Online circuit.
Hi, nice video, however I'd rather user a low control voltage for the contactor (e.g 12V or 24V). It's not relly safe to have a mains cable on the bench. Stay Safe bye
Live Gn/Yl !! eeek!! I know you've just finished it, but take it apart; go down to screwfux and buy a lump of this: - www.screwfix.com/p/nexans-round-flex-3185y-5-core-1mm-5m-white/1770t
When it's done properly, it'll be as good as a shop-bought one and you'll be proud to post it on yewtewb!