Hi Brian I put a comment on about shining the crank you did not put any shims in the crank witch seams strang & I wanted to know how did you know how the crank was if the none drive side bearing was tight as far as I know that have to be shim to .002" hope you can de- sifor all of that. Best regards Ray were do I find the reply cheers.
Hi Ray, I replied to your first question in the Part 3 video. If you fit the crank just to the right hand crankcase and tighten the shaft nut with the gear drive and timing in place, so everything is pulled up tight on the none drive side and its tight or binding then try the smallest 3 thou (002") shim first, if it’s still binding just add shims until it rotates freely. The crank shim kit is about £7 and has 5 shims of various thicknesses. The link below has them in stock. Once the non-drive side rotates freely fit the other crankcase half and bolt the crankcase together and check that the crank rotates freely in case the shimming has created negative end float; which will be unlikely if you have the roller (not ball) bearing on the drive side. www.feked.com/bsa-crankshaft-shim-set-unit-singles-c15-b25-b40-b44-b50.html There is a great publication on the BSA unit singles (Volume 1) with lots of good info on rebuilding the engine, gearbox, carburation, clutch and electrics as per the link below. www.ratiopublishing.co.uk/ Regards, Brian.
Hey nice video...
Hi Brian I put a comment on about shining the crank you did not put any shims in the crank witch seams strang & I wanted to know how did you know how the crank was if the none drive side bearing was tight as far as I know that have to be shim to .002" hope you can de- sifor all of that. Best regards Ray were do I find the reply cheers.
Hi Ray,
I replied to your first question in the Part 3 video. If you fit the crank just to the right hand crankcase and tighten the shaft nut with the gear drive and timing in place, so everything is pulled up tight on the none drive side and its tight or binding then try the smallest 3 thou (002") shim first, if it’s still binding just add shims until it rotates freely. The crank shim kit is about £7 and has 5 shims of various thicknesses. The link below has them in stock. Once the non-drive side rotates freely fit the other crankcase half and bolt the crankcase together and check that the crank rotates freely in case the shimming has created negative end float; which will be unlikely if you have the roller (not ball) bearing on the drive side.
www.feked.com/bsa-crankshaft-shim-set-unit-singles-c15-b25-b40-b44-b50.html
There is a great publication on the BSA unit singles (Volume 1) with lots of good info on rebuilding the engine, gearbox, carburation, clutch and electrics as per the link below.
www.ratiopublishing.co.uk/
Regards, Brian.