How to Test a Junkyard V8 Engine Part 1
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- Опубліковано 14 тра 2016
- In this video, we get hold of cheap and dirty old car engine. Using tools already in the garage and the odd used part, we need to see if it's worthwhile without spending much money and without any dis-assembly...
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Based on the video title I was afraid to see another backyard hill billy destruction video but you are actually a person that respects the value of machinery and you know how to work on it.
Instablaster.
Peter Anderson should be our next national treasure. An encyclopedia of knowledge and down to earth and humble to boot. Love this stuff.
Its like watching a surgeon doing his job and operating on someone. Nice to see you bring back to life an old forgotten engine.
9:29 as a bike mechanic i find this sound terrifying
never watched a video by an Australian tech. before but this was very interesting and I enjoyed it so much ...it was also very helpful ...thank you for the historical information and the interesting stories ...you reminded me of some really good friends that i new ...be blessed
Oh my God! You're as good a mechanic as you are an auto body guru! This was really an enjoyable video Peter. You should contact the cable companies and offer to do a reality series. Seriously, great video. Can't wait to see it run.
+Dale Yurk Thanks Dale, although I doubt my garage tinkering would be taken seriously by a cable company. Thanks for the wonderful comments. Cheers Pete
glad to see you are taking a break . informative and entertaining. thanks for sharing your infinite knowledge of the Ford engine. I look forward to your videos Peter. thanks .
+Charles Chidester Thanks Charles, an old hobby of mine that always brings a smile to my face. Cheers and take care.
You should always trust a man who drinks tea while he works on his engine :-) A great video and I'm about to watch the next one.
wow bro the passion you have for the love of mech/tech work is awesome. Im just like that.Love to build and weld cars and trucks.
Absolutely love your work... Thanks for sharing.
Really enjoyed that Peter. I learn something new every time. Thank you very much.
+Eponymousjoe Qurious Glad you liked it and thank you for the wonderful comments.
cool fella...do another one....all the best mate loved it.
Very informative, basic principles to follow for a yard motor after purchasing.....can't wait see the next video.
Excellent video, Peter. Informative and fun.
Another great video, looking forward to seeing it fire up!
+Millertime89 Me too, thanks for your comments. Cheers
Finally! A video about Ford 302 without any cursing or swearing.
Excellent demo and advice. Your videos are great.
+MrButtonpresser Thanks, I actually put very little effort into the videos... I just turn the camera on and blab about my hobby - great fun.
+Peter Anderson bow much abbo crank ya use ta build an engine?
I am in USA and your price seems very high but I have not been in a junkyard for a long time :) very nice, thanks!
Nice, never seen a 302C. Thanks for taking the time to make a video
I see.
soaringtractor Fuck off. NOT even the same motor.
+soaringtractor idiot
+A. Robert Ausili its not a boss 302.
its a cleveland 302 which is a destroked 351 c
hi peter, after seen your xw restoration videos i bought myself a 72 xy 302, just loving it... but now im having big trouble on rebuilding it, my local smash repair shop simply didnt want to take the job as he think it will take up too much time, took it elsewhere they quoted me for a unbelievable price, looking forward to see more of your DIY videos to learn more skills from you, perhaps i could start rebuilding it mysalf...im your biggest fan now and thanks for all the videos you have shared! :)
Good vid. A lot of basic stuff but nobody does that anymore. I enjoyed it and liked your quick method of measuring the stroke.
Peter, Excellent video series. A+
nice job can wait for the fire up
Ditto
Another great video, keep them coming!
+Michael Burns Thanks Michael, will do. Cheers
Pretty darn cool considering the price of a new engine. Well done!
fyi the timing chain cover can leak behind the water pump. drove us crazy back in the day. then we found out a 65 small block ford wont interchange with 1964, they added 1 bolt to the pattern. nice video.
Bloody good vid, useful and informative the Falcon being uncovered affecting ya concentration gave me a laugh, glad I stumbled upon your vids. Would love to see more of your engine stand design, it looks great. I've never seen one with the ability to start n run the motor, read pressures, turn n and off fuel etc, that is excellent. Would love to see how you set up the engine on the stand with all the gauges etc connected, (maybe I'll just have to watch more of your vids to see if it's shown. Call me fussy but I did wonder if it had the option to rotate the block, not that it effects how impressed I am with it.
Was just about to do some testing on this exact engine. Only learning, so your video is really helpful. First test is 302 or 351. Was going to try hand cranking with a spark plug out and wait for lowest point to measure. Really enjoy your videos, watched all the xw resto, fantastic job. Cheers brad
Enjoyed the video. Thanks.
great vid mate.. i couldn't stop watching..
Nice video fella . Great advice.
+Tuning SU Carburetors. The Easy way. Thank you sir.
This reminds me of when a buddy of mine brought home a Ford 8Ba Flathead he got for $50. The place swore up and down that the thing had at LEAST a spun bearing but we we got it fired up and it ran real smooth. He stuffed it in a 48 F2 pickup and drove it around for quite a while, still ran great when he parted with it.
Good video, now I got watch the next one, thanks Pete.
Great video for someone who doesn't know much about motors👍
It's great for those of us who do too! Watching this makes me want to get greasy!
Another great video Peter. I'm with you on the Permatex, it's been around for ever and it works. Much better than RTV in my opinion. Looking forward to the second video, heck I look forward to all your videos!
+Kim Harbison Thanks Kim... I'm not a fan of RTV although some products are better than others - the threebond stuff used on two machined surfaces such as gearbox cases is hard to beat though. I'll be using dirty cheap old silicone on the rusted heater hose union as a temporary measure while testing, but that's about it. Cheers
Hi Peter! I reckon .. if it's possible, that I'm more excited about discovering your channel than you are when you remember that you've still got that cuppa sitting there cold waiting for you
Nice work. You got yourself a new subscriber!
I've subbed too! Great content.
-A
mister Anderson we have been watching you for some time
A junker is free.
First real auto repair I ever performed was "welsh" (freeze) plugs in a relatives 1962 T-Bird with the 390. I did the job at my High School, took 3 periods, had to go home and shower as my hair was soaked in engine oil. Very proud of that repair some 46 years ago.
I liked the comment here about how if you do not like how he is doing the job "you can turn it off" Ha.
Thanks Dan, I don't think we ever forget our least fun jobs... Mine was almost 30 years ago... a clutch on an E-type Jag. Not a single captive nut on the thing and a transmission tunnel wrapped tightly around the gearbox, so I decided to drop the engine through the bottom which meant removing a whole lot of crap including the triple carburettors. Once the car was raised on a hoist, it started tipping rearward, because of the lack of weight at the front... it turned out well, but I hated working on Jags after that!
I can remember what I thought was going to be an easy first disc brake job. I was working at my first actual mechanics position, I had graduated to getting 50% of the labor (in the early 70's here in the States it was common for the mechanic and the shop to split the labor 50/50, this lasted until about 1975 and then changed to more of a flat rate system). OK, my "easy" first disc brake job turned out to be on an Audi 100 LS. It had inboard disc brakes and required some suspension disassembly to get the rotors off. Good thing brake jobs got easier after that one.
It never happened that I was asked to do another brake job on an Audi 100 LS or any other inboard brake auto. All of that time "learning" and I never did another one.
OH that Jag clutch job sounds like it was a nightmare. One childhood friend and one adult friend each turned out buying an E-Type Jag as "midlife crisis cars". Luckily I never got asked to work on them. OH those Jags do have such a nice body style, almost makes it worth it to work on one, I said "almost".
That Audi 100 LS ended up having an engine fire. This is when I learned that it was a bad idea to save a problem car that was burning. The insurance company wanted it fixed rather than totaling it. This car was never truly right after that engine fire and we put many unpaid hour into it.
That 50/50 labor split was a nice system. I think it turned out the shops thought they were paying mechanics too much, that system had to go.
Why in the world would your hair be soaked in oil if you were changing the freeze plugs?
Charles, use the detective part that exists in every good mechanic (hint.the.
T-Bird had a oil leak)
We had the Boss 302, which used a Windsor block and 4V Cleveland heads. You can use those heads on a 302W with the right aftermarket manifold and rerouted coolant crossover holes in the heads.
great video mate!
Why not pull off one of the valve covers and check for foamy sludge indicting a coolant leak into the coolant system? BTW, great videos, I really love those Australian Fords!
Excellent video. An easy subscribe for me.
The only I thing I was proud to have noticed straight away was that water pump gasket was 429/460. They have a weird internal spiral shape to them which I haven't seen before until I did the water pump in my early 70's Lincoln engine.
Yes, you saw that before I did! Thanks for the comments.
Thanks - this is a really interesting video
Hi Peter, thanks for another great video on the cleveland engine, hope it all ends up good for the initial $350 dollar outlay.
I bought two std bore 302 blocks recently for $250 each one had been hot tanked and new cam bearings fitted. As you say you can't have to many spare cleveland's :-)
+Warren Brown Absolutely... I've sold some great running, fully dressed engines in the past for next to nothing. Won't make that mistake again... time to gather some inventory!
Great Bloke ! & Interesting Video !
love Cleveland V8's, we were lucky to get plenty in Australia, permatex a big yes, wonder what the top of the pistons look like,yes oil is a cheap commodity, 8 bucks each for the valve cover gaskets, had a 221 great little engine, Thanks Peter
good video....wish I had one of these engines for my ford ranger.
Great video! 👌 Thanks.......
That's looking like a great salvage pull. I've got an old Ford engine that has been sitting for a little over a decade. I'll have to use your technique to check it out. Maybe get her back into service. You make it way simpler then most folks I've watched. I'll be waiting for the fire up on yours.
Great video!
"...annoying the neighbors." the best part!
Lots of very good info here. I was wondering if you would do a leakdown test, but a compression test is about the best for overall cylinder health. And I really like that your dashboard has the vacuum gauge, invaluable during tune-ups. When I would tune any engine, the vacuum gauge would be the spirometer, and the oil pressure gauge would be the sphygmomanometer. Dumb analogy sure, but good numbers meant, as a rule of thumb, good health, despite outwards appearances.
Hey, Peter, great video. I found part 3, but where's part 2?
Hi Peter, I have a Ford Y block out of a 55 F100. I want to test it. I took the heads and I am glad I did as rust flakes had gotten into a couple of cylinders. The gaskets look to be in good shape and just came off, no rips or tares. I am told I cannot use them, even for testing. Whats your thought? I don't want to spend money on it in case the engine is no good. I already have got to try and get hold of a starter motor. Thanks,
Screw that Permatex stuff...a nightmare to remove if/when you have to do so. Copper-Coat all the way.
A lot of arguing over the u.s. using the Cleveland and with some research we did use it in the u.s. just not as long. The cleveland was produced in Australiia until the 80's. The following was taken from Ford Muscle Forums... both are small blocks. They both take small block bellhousings.
The main differences are the heads. The cleveland has a canted valve
lay out, with HUGE ports and valves. There are 2 different CLEVELANDS
that is there were 2v and 4v. Both had more than generous ports, and
valves. The big cleveland had 2.19" intake valves, and 1.71" exhaust valves. The intake ports could easily fit a lime into them.
Also the mains were smaller on the cleveland...2.75" I do believe. The 351C
was only made 70-74 so the parts for it are just not as abundant as the
more readily available 351 Windsor (go to australia where the Cleveland
was built till the 80's and it is the opposite.) Because there are so
many more Windsors out there than clevelands, the windsor got more
attention with the aftermarket. Also a reason the aftermarket was so
strong to the Windsor was because it was MUCH HARDER to make these go
fast from the factory where as the Cleveland was much easier.
The 351 C was based after the BOSS 302, and was pretty much the same (more or less) as the BOSS 351.
Also, the cleveland Intake is dry, whereas the windsors is not.
all the 302,s ive messed with had in line valves, those heads have canted valves which means those heads are specially made for you down under folks, I bet those heads flow better then the stock american 302,s sort of look like a combo between 351 and 302, which as long as the bore is 4 inches you have a jewel.
thank you someone else that knows what they're talking about.
+Carter Stokoe he does not know what hes talking about you idiot.
hes saying the 302 cleveland is a 302 windsor you bogan.
the clevland 302 was used in the boss 302 mustangs from 1969 to 1971
an Aussie 302C is a de-stroked American 351C. An American Boss 302 uses a Windsor block with Cleveland heads
Ah Bullshit! Do I have explain? The Boss 302 was 1969 to 1970 and marsdreamer is very correct. The Boss 351 Mustang was a Cleveland.
bubbajoexxx g
THE BOSS USED A BOSS ENGINE..
The Boss engine WAS a Cleveland 302, it was rushed early due to Trans Am requirments. Main differences between an Aussie and US 302 are the following:
Aussie;
1.) 2 valve, 58cc chambered, Tunnel port heads (Done to "tame" the motor, but actually ended up giving more low and mid range intake velocity, so gave more power below 3500,
Rare, but optional)
2.)Traditional valvetrain geometry, pedestal or rail rockers
3.)Thermostat mounted on intake (wet intake)
4.)6 valve cover bolts
5.)Aluminum timing chain cover
Basically, a conglomeration of Windsor and Cleveland parts (Only big difference between Aussie and Canadian 302 is the heads, cam and valve size, but don't ask which way it goes, I don't remember, and compression ratio)
USA-
1.) 4 Valve 64cc Cleveland heads (More high RPM HP)
2.) Canted valves, pedestal rockers
3.) Thermostat mounted to front of block. (dry intake)
4.) 8 valve cover bolts
5.) steel timing cover, chain recessed into block further
Both use the standard SB bell housing bolt pattern,
Both have same bore and stroke
Now can ya'll STFU?
I would have liked to have had him as a teacher.
I would definitely chose this exciting profession
He’s my teacher haha, he’s the best.
Years ago I bought a similar 302. Long story short: I had to replace both cylinder heads, rebalance it, new Pistons new piston rings. And a Holley carb and then it run fine. After some real cleaning mind you.
Wow! Would love to have a 302 Cleveland
These are very reliable V8 in the old days with very little maintenance cost like our present expensive V8 engine.
I like the gauges on that test stand.
I'm planning on doing a 1.3 liter 4 cylinder engine rebuild first time can you recommend any books or sites this engine belongs to us Suzuki Swift 2000 model
I found it interesting only in that I live in the US and I didn't know that you did not get the same power plants that we did. It seems to me a waste of funds to retool for an engine that is redundant. But then I felt the same way about the many variations of the 351 that ford made here in the US. I remember that it was at times a nightmare to determine which one you had. There were multiple bell housing configurations and several crank configurations on the out put end 5, 6 or 8 bolts(I may be overstating this a little) Different head designs and intake designs as well. The sad part was most of them were only OK at best(here comes a Blue Oval storm)
I was and am a big fan of the 455 Buick engine, Tons of torque and tough!
Those long valve cover bolts had a purpose on solid lifter engines, where adjusting the valves was done on a weekly basis, not unlike adjusting the old Holley carburetors, on a daily basis, but a lot of people added them on non-racing engines just for looks.
seniorjohnl m
not sure why you have trouble with holley carbs.
I have had trouble with Holley carbs over the years, but not adjustment issues... LEAKS. So many leaky Holley carbs. Having said that I will have to add that I live in the desert and the wide temperature variances, as well as the 114F + summer temps take a heavy toll on sealing materials. Holley bowl set ups make that a problem. Around here it's "Holley for race day, something else for every other day"
Top video Peter ... but leaving us in suspense is just plain old cruel :p
Have you no mercy!!
+Lawson80 Haha, nah... all good, just needed to get some work done on the XC and gather a few more parts for the old 302 in preparation for testing. I should have the conclusion uploaded in a couple of weeks. Cheers
Gotta love those thermoquads
And hate them when they play up... cheers mate.
lol replacing valve cover bolts and installing water pump before even checking to see if its seized... way to have your priorities straight haha
wow.good mechanical knowledge .info.
🇺🇸 👍 I really enjoyed this video. Thank you very much for posting 👍 now, onto the next 😎 🇺🇸
(subscribed)
Hi again Peter, can you give us an idea how you built your engine running stand? I know you can buy them but they are expensive cheers.
A friend bought a new Fairlane in 1965 . It had a Gold Emblem (high performance) 289 engine which developed an oil leak from the valve covers. After three attempts to get the right gaskets from a local parts store he went to the Ford dealership to learn why the stock parts didn't fit. He was told it was a (Special Edition) 289, later known as a Cleveland engine which officially debuted as a 351 in 1968 models.
Australia is the second best country for hot rodders in the world. I hear New Zealand is pretty good too. Way to keep the muscle cars alive. In the U.S. we did have the Boss 302 that had the Cleveland heads but it was a really rare piece. I get jealous when I see some of the cool stuff that Australians got over the years that we didn't get in the U.S.
Do you have a basic video on how to wire up a 7o years carbureted car. Key, coil, starter, battery... been so long i forgot,, on a stand... Thanks if you have the time...
This makes me reminisce when i first pulled my 302 apart. Have yet to finish putting it back together.
Except mine hadn't been run for at least 10 years going by what the previous owner said. Alot of water had gotten into it over the years.
Almost no oil and the sump was full of sludge, atleast half its capacity.
Similarly the rocker cover gaskets were trash, but otherwise it was very clean internally.
+TheDaff It's a shame seeing them reduced to that condition, but lovely to rebuild them and hear their voice for the first time again. Cheers
YEAH. and if only people would learn to NOT park the old beautys on vegetation. grass and other plants shoot straight tru the body.
then we would be able to save alot more of them.
FYI - In Canada and the USA in the late 60s to 80s the 302 Ford engines were very popular and made in the millions
Correct, however this is the 302 Cleveland rather than the Ford.
You should always put oil in a new oil filter before installing so you minimize a dry start condition.but you can do what you did to get oil pressure before starting but most people don`t do that when they do a oil change. good video.
big block cleveland here in the states...
351/370/400/429/530 ci. best damn ford engines i have ever run ;-)
I like the little engine stand for just the motor can you do a bit on it when you get part 2 done please as I have a suby motor and I would like some ideas on how. To hold it
Is the intake manifold aluminum and what are the chances I can find one for sale 🤔
Crap man you Aussie fellows are lucky .
Spoke too soon didn't you? Indeed we love a 302 Ford.
I was looking for you to make some mistakes...and I failed at it. You're good. :)
Im looking at a 351 windsor out of a xw falcon, (new to engine rebuilds) the ad im looking at says crank is 10 tho under and it is 30 thou over bore, is this bad
It depends... .010 for a crank is fine provided you crack test it and you don't need to take much off. .030 for the block is okay if the bores are basically sound as the max is normally .040... anything above that and you should have it sonic, cheers.
Thanks for the reply even on a vid this old, great info thanks
Over here they test it for you in the junkyard with one battery and one irrigation bottle for the gasoline.
thanks for your time documenting this pretty rare to me,find. I had a 1972 montego gt with the 351 Cleveland and that car was a screamer! the main Achilles heal thats plagued that block from the beginning has been it throwing rods due to difficulties in oil reaching the rod bearings. It developed a rod knock and I had to sell it , unfortunately.the guy who ended up buying the car, had owned others like it,and his first question was, did it throw a rod? lol!if it is a good motor and you plan on keeping it,do yourself a big favor and please check out other sources of information that have corrected the oiling problems. whether they enlarged the oil journal holes or provided more flow by what means,i cannot say. but please look into this, it cost me a real nice car back in the day.gr8 video and luck with your projects. thanks
Not too many boss 302s around anymore, did very well and pretty common back in the day.
Is the 302C a destorked 351 we never got the 302 Cleveland in the states.
+Datttsnake That's correct. Longer conrods and a shorter offset on the crank. Very popular in '70's Fords in Oz.
+TheBear351c Ditto, thanks.
They were actually more solid than our Boss 302s too. 30 years ago it was just as common to see an imported 302 Cleveland running against 302 Bosses in the 302/5.0 drag race category here in the South.
Datttsnake
That's strange , I'm not a Ford guy , but 20 yrs ago I was looking to buy a new car , well there was a newly used 5.0 mustang with a hi performance motor under the hood , and it so happen to be a mean son of a bitch , 302 Cleveland itself , I ended up not buying that inperticular car , due to the fact the mother fucked didn't want to keep the front tire on the ground , god damn it , those 25 minutes of wild and savage fun in a machine I'll never forget as long as I live , I still don't like a Ford today , but u can bet Ur ass everytime I see that gt emblem on the side of a mustang I think of that box shaped red chunk of pure fucking MUSCLE! ! ,, ... # respectthe
Hi Peter, do you have plans for the engine test rig?Thanks,
+OldDog NewTricks It's a cumbersome thing but I love to use it. If I had my time again, I would have made it a little smaller but I still have a few engines that will be mounted and tested, the first after the 302 is a 351 Cleveland that I'm yet to build for the XC. Cheers
I don't subscribe to a channel with similar content often..
This didn't come from up near Mackay in Central Queensland did it?
I have a 302 in my 1983 ford econoline van. Standard V8 for that vehicle. Preceded the Windsor.
Save your battery and use an electric drill in reverse with an oil pump primer shaft. Remove the distributor and prime the oiling system that way and save your starter too!
and should have filled filter with oil
Ford cleveland 302s are used in America among racers (must imported them or were special ordered in a ford back then). They are very rare but I have seen one or two. Most like the 351C which is ok but when it comes to ford (gm man myself) I love the 351M had on in a 1984 Ford F150 used it as a plow truck till I pulled the plow and traded it for an almost new topper for my 1989 F150.
I want to know what intake is used.
You mentioned that the 302 Cleveland was only made in Australia... If my memory serves me, I do remember 302's being available here in Canada??
May I use a couple of brief clips from this video, to use in a video I'm creating about testing a 1959 Edsel engine? Will provide credit and backlink. Specifically, a few seconds showing old freeze plugs and your testing dashboard. Thanks in Advance! Hullo Peter thanks for quality education!